Jim:
In ‘The Wanderers’ reference to keeping an example of an arrow, What he is talking about is when replacing a knock, it has to be properly indexed, so the fletching has the least possible effect on the arrow as it is launched. Obviously, you need spares, and some good glue, normally called cement in this context. The best is the kind that looks like a brown crayon, but it is hard, and you heat it with a small flame (match) and soften it . Have to be careful not to burn it, too. Then work quickly, as it sticks as it sets up. I have heard of carbon fiber arrows contaminating meat, too, but don’t know if it has really happened.
The story I heard of where the arrow splinters being driven into a shooter’s arm were from a wooden arrow that was already cracked/split, maybe from hitting another arrow in target practice. That is why when you start to get good, you get a target with several small targets on it, instead of one big one. That way, you won’t damage your arrows by hitting others already in the target.
I had a neighbor who was a WWII veteran years ago. He spoke once of something that resembled a hatchet as being more effective than the trench knife/bayonet. [JWR Adds: He may have been referring to an SAS/OSS “Smatchet”.] There can obviously be more force delivered to the object with a tomahawk than a knife, it would be better in several ways. I really like the look of one of those I saw in one of the links, but it was very pricey. I do not doubt the quality though.
The sharpest out of the box knife I have ever bought was from Cold Steel, a Voyager, that I have been carrying for about nine years now. I have a box full of knives, some nice autos, too, but I still like the Cold Steel best. It was literally shaving sharp. Not just almost. They definitely do know how to put on an edge.
I borrowed a copy of “Patriots” from a friend. I am closing in on the end. I hate it when I finish a good book. ‘Unintended Consequences’ was like that, too. Thanks, – Sid