Selecting Footwear and Foot Care Basics, by K.B.

Even the best of weapons, flashlights, knives, bugout bags, et cetera are practically useless if the user has become immobile due to an unnecessary foot injury or footwear related problem. It all starts with selecting the right boots for the job and having a good working knowledge of how to care for one’s feet and then doing it.

From the simple Roman (or Ho Chi Minh) sandals to the newest synthetic lined mountain boot, dependable footwear has been an essential for covering rugged terrain, or even not-so-rugged terrain, by foot. The comfortable, lightweight boots that are popular with the military and police these days are okay for around the house or work, and I have owned several pair, but for the most part they were never really intended for extended hard use.

Sizing

As is the norm with other important equipment items, various trade-offs are usually involved where overall performance issues are concerned, and one size doesn’t necessary fit all. This is also meant in the literal sense, as I have footwear ranging in size between 9 ½ regular to 13 wide, and they all fit about the same way. While the size of my feet is pretty consistent, there is a bit of inconsistency between various manufacturers as far as sizing goes. On occasion, I have even seen boots of the same make, model, and marked size that were not the same size. The only way to know for sure is to try them on. They should have a half-inch to an inch of space between the toes and the front of the boot and should be snug everywhere else but not tight.

The selection and breaking-in of appropriate footwear is something that should be done well in advance of any extended outdoor activity. One should pay particular attention to the climate where the activity is going to take place and plan accordingly. Wearing jungle boots to an Arctic environment is no wiser than wearing 1400 gram Thinsulate insulated boots in the tropics, no matter how cool they may look. Neither scenario ends well.

Breaking In Boots

Some boot manufacturers claim that there is no break-in time at all required for their boots. They are lying. They may have remarkably short and pain-free break-in periods, depending on the quality of construction and the materials the boots are constructed of, but the boot must be allowed the chance to mold itself to the wearer’s feet in order to avoid problems.

There are many ways to break in boots. There’s the old classic– the “soak them and walk them dry” approach– which has been employed for centuries and is one of the quickest methods, should one need a pair of boots to be broken-in in a hurry. While it takes longer, I prefer wearing them with thick socks for short periods until they mold themselves to my feet, and cleaning, moisturizing, or polishing them once in a while, depending on the material. Also keep in mind that the wearer’s feet will spread out a bit if carrying a heavy load.

Often the result of ill-fitting or poorly broken-in boots, blisters can be very painful and debilitating. They can also become infected or worse, if not dealt with promptly, and if ignored blisters can turn someone into a casualty in a relatively short amount of time. The old remedy of popping a blister when it first appears (at the base) with a flame-sterilized needle and then masking it with adhesive moleskin is still effective and relatively pain free.

On one occasion, an old friend of mine decided to save some time by breaking in a new pair of boots all at once during a long hike while carrying sixty pounds plus. He insisted on doing this, in spite of the collective advice of the rest of the squad that it was not a good idea. Naturally, his feet became covered with blisters, and being determined not to drop out of the hike he ignored the problem. At some point, the blisters popped and began to heal around his socks. After his wool socks were removed by the corpsman and he was evacuated, the resulting injuries kept him off his feet for days. The team was deprived of a valuable member, and it was all completely avoidable.

Dry Feet

Climate inappropriate footwear can also quickly turn the wearer into a casualty. Immersion foot (also known as Non-Freezing Cold Injury or Trench-Foot) develops if the feet stay wet for too long. Frostbite (a condition that develops in cold temperature when the blood is drawn back to the heart and the capillaries in the extremities begin to constrict) is capable of rendering someone immobile in a very short period of time. Not keeping one’s feet as dry as possible and the blood circulating is a sure recipe for disaster in colder climates.

While I have owned several pairs of modern synthetic-lined boots, I still prefer plain old leather uppers with RoSearch soles and wool socks for the colder climates or hard use in general. Wool still provides insulation when wet and leather will eventually dry, although usually slower than a synthetic. As the temperature changes, more socks (even different materials such as cotton) may be added or subtracted, but it is best not do this to the point where circulation is impeded. Since socks usually weigh less than boots, carrying a variety of socks would seem to be the practical way to go. Although I’ve never actually used them, there are waterproof socks.

Synethetic Boot Liner Problems

Modern, synthetic-lined boots can have their own unique problems. The Vibram outsole of an expensive pair that I particularly liked began to separate from the EVA midsole at about the halfway point of a long walk one day. A little later on the same walk, the midsole of the same boot warped, and the boot became useless. Fortunately, I wasn’t carrying very much at the time and the terrain was fairly hospitable, so I was able to make it home barefoot without much difficulty. Another problem that has plagued me with modern synthetic-lined boots is the Chinese Finger Puzzle Effect. This occurs when the heel, shank, or both areas of a boot lining decide to separate from the inside of the boot, thus causing the lining (still stitched to the collar and tongue of the boot, of course) to grasp the wearer’s foot in the manner of a Chinese Finger Puzzle. In most instances, the boot will neither come off nor go back on without a great struggle. It’s not something to look forward to at the end of a long hike.

I have since begun to experiment with a method by which to remedy this problem, as it has occurred in a couple of pair of my more expensive boots. With the ever handy Swiss Army Knife, I punched a small incision near the heel of the loose synthetic liner and inserted the precision tip of a tube of Krazy Glue into the opening. I then squeezed the glue and worked it around the edges of the hole (careful to avoid getting any too close to the hole where it could seep out) with a circular motion, I carefully patted the liner back into place, put a plastic bag full of sand in the liner to secure it, and waited a day or so until the glue had a chance to set. While this is probably not necessarily the best for waterproof membranes, it has done okay so far with a quick-drying one. It is still too early to tell whether or not this is a permanent fix.

Athlete’s Foot

Without prompt and proper attention, even athlete’s foot can get seriously out of hand in warmer climates, to the point where it can work its way down into muscle tissue, as happened to me once during an extended period in the field. It had been a long patrol, and I did not get the chance to change socks or dry my feet for five or six days. While I’m still not sure why this didn’t happen to anyone else who was on the patrol, I wound up getting evacuated and placed on oral anti-fungal for two weeks. (I was returned to the company a day or two later and relegated to answering the phone while wearing shower shoes.) After that, I made it a point to change into dry socks and to powder my feet as often as possible. I also began to carry shower shoes to allow my feet to dry in the sun when time and weather would allow.

More Boot Break-in Ideas

Let’s say you’ve found the perfect pair of expensive, high-quality boots, and you’ve meticulously broken them in, loved them, nurtured them, and put them away for a rainy day. Four or five months later, you retrieve the boots and attempt to put them on, only to discover that the boots have shrunk, you don’t have a boot stretcher, the nearest cobbler is a hundred miles away, and Western Civilization has slipped into total chaos for whatever reason.

If you’re willing to risk the blisters and can get the boots on at all, soak them thoroughly (while wearing them) and walk them until they are absolutely dry. Then they must be moisturized somehow. (Even petroleum jelly will work in a pinch.) If taken off before they dry, the problem can actually get worse. If it happens to be freezing outside (not the best time to walk boots dry) or you happen to have access to a working freezer that is big enough, plastic bags of water can be firmly tucked inside the boots, and they can be allowed to freeze. As the water in the bags freezes, it will expand and stretch the boots. There is, of course, an easier solution. Simply wear the boots around the house a few times a month.

Boot Material Terms

If for some reason I’m not wearing boots, I usually have a well broken-in/climate appropriate pair nearby. Here are some helpful boot terms, to aid you in purchasing yours:

Dry-Lex is a quick drying synthetic lining. However, all Dry-Lex linings are not created equal. I have one pair of boots that begins to dry as soon as they come out of the water to the point where one can actually see a waterline moving up the boot. I have another pair with the same kind of lining, and they don’t really seem to work at all.

EVA (or ethyl vinyl acetate) is a cushioning material that is usually found sandwiched between the outsole and the insole of the boot.

Gore-Tex is a waterproof, synthetic fabric developed in the late 1960s. It basically works as a result of micro pores that are large enough to allow perspiration or moisture to escape in its vaporous form, while the pores are still small enough to keep water droplets out. As a boot-lining material it works quite well in temperate climates. However, the performance is limited in areas with high humidity (such as the Tropics or the Subtropics). When water comes in over the top, they take forever to dry, compared to the simple and relatively inexpensive Vietnam pattern jungle boots.

RoSearch soles came about as the result of a direct molded vulcanization process, which actually molds hard rubberized soles to the welted leather of the boot’s upper. Some examples would be the old black G.I issue boots (chevron ripples or the later “jeep tread” speed-lace model), and the Panama soles of the classic Vietnam jungle boots or tan desert boots from the First Gulf War.

Thinsulate is a synthetic lining material often combined with Gore-Tex in boot liners to keep feet warm and dry in cold, damp climates. They generally come in various ratings ranging from 100 grams (for kinda cold) to 2000+ grams (for very, very cold). If using such a liner, it should be removable, as they can warm up very quickly as the temperature rises.

Vibram is the brand name of a popular vulcanized rubber outsole that is usually cemented onto a stitched-down EVA midsole. One of the great advantages of Vibram is that it can usually be repaired or resoled by a cobbler without great difficulty.

Letter: Inexpensive Perimeter Security for Your House in the Suburbs

Mr. Latimer,

I reside in southern California in a semi-rural area; however, I do live in a housing tract. When SHTF, my concern would be the security surrounding the perimeter of my property. I do live on a corner property, thus, two sides of my property are of concern. I have come up with a plan for security notification when anyone enters my property or even gets close.

I found an inexpensive item at Harbor Freight that will accomplish this notification. The item is an infrared triggered Wireless Security Alert System (Item Number: 93068). The battery operated unit has a range of 400’ from sensor to receiver. The retail price is $13.99; however, there is a savings coupon on Harbor Freight’s site good until 1-2-17 for a unit price of $9.99.

The units are customer rated at 3.8 out of 5.0 with a total of 773 reviews. As long as there are no bushes or tree limbs in the immediate area in front of the sensor, there should not be problem.

I have purchased three units to be installed once it is apparent that there be will a need to secure the perimeter of the property. Installation should be easy and fast, as everything is battery operated. I also have purchased extra batteries for each unit. Check the channels used by each unit that are stated on the box. It is important to purchase units with separate channels to avoid a conflict between multiple units.

I hope this suggestion can help others. – KL

Economics and Investing:

Monte dei Paschi Rescue Cost Jumps as Deposits Fall

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Toshiba Says Nuclear Writedown May Reach Billions of Dollars

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Bankruptcy Becomes an Option for Some Borrowers Burdened by Student Loans

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Financial Times, Barron’s Tout Death of Gold. “When the pall bearers and grave diggers start dancing on gold’s grave, it’s usually a good time to buy.”

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.

JWR’s Recommendations of the Week:

Books:

Plunder and Deceit: Big Government’s Exploitation of Young People and the Future, by Mark Levin

The ARRL Ham Radio License Manual

Movies:

I Am David (“Chronicles the struggles of a 12-year-old boy who manages to flee a Communist concentration camp.”)

The Truman Show

Television:

How Should We Then Live? (This is Dr. Francis Schaeffer’s spectacular ten-part series on the rise and decline of Western culture from a Christian perspective.)

24: Redemption (Starring Kiefer Sutherland.)

Music:

Louis Armstrong: The Definitive Collection

Lynyrd Skynyrd – All Time Greatest Hits

Instructional Videos:

FLIR Factory Trip and Thermal Discussion

Franklin Armory BFSiii (Gen3 BFS) Trigger Install & Function Test

Podcasts:

Radio Free Redoubt

The Risky Biscuit Hayseed Hoot

Gear:

Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2 Terabyte Portable External Hard Drive – USB 3.0

Panasonic CF-30 Rugged Toughbook (Windows 7) Touchscreen With 4GB RAM and 1TB Hard Drive. (Refurbished Toughbooks are quite reasonably priced.)

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“The common denominator in all government activity is the use of force: Government either forces you to do things, forces you not to do things, or forces you to pay for things.” – Doug Newman

Notes for Tuesday – December 27, 2016

On this day in 1979, in an attempt to stabilize the turbulent political situation in Afghanistan, the Soviet Union sent 75,000 troops to enforce the installation of Babrak Karmal as the new leader of the nation. The new government and the imposing Soviet presence, however, had little success in putting down anti-government rebels. Thus began nearly 10 years of an agonizing, destructive, and ultimately fruitless Soviet military intervention in Afghanistan. Death by a thousand cuts.

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Don’t forget, Ready Made Resources has a very limited supply of Knight Vision AN/PVS-30 Night Vision Weapon Site available. These have seen action in the Gulf but are “like new” or have been refurbished. Normally over $11,000, you can get them for under $5000. There are only a few left, so move fast. A moderately well-trained civilian shooter recently did some shooting with one of these with a .308 at just over 1,000 yards, and got consistent dings on a 10”x14” steel plate, in just dim moonlight! – JWR

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Today, we present another entry for Round 68 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The nearly $15,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A $3000 gift certificate towards a Sol-Ark Solar Generator from Veteran owned Portable Solar LLC. The only EMP Hardened Solar Generator System available to the public.
  2. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate that is good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  3. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses, excluding those restricted for military or government teams. Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  4. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chrome-lined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR-type rifle to have a quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  5. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul PMAG 30-rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt; (an equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions),
  6. Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  7. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package (enough for two families of four) plus seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate (a $325 retail value),
  8. A $250 gift certificate good for any product from Sunflower Ammo,
  9. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Tactical Self-Contained 2-Series Solar Power Generator system from Always Empowered. This compact starter power system is packaged in a wheeled O.D. green EMP-shielded Pelican hard case (a $2,400 value),
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  3. A gift certificate for any two or three-day class from Max Velocity Tactical (a $600 value),
  4. A transferable certificate for a two-day Ultimate Bug Out Course from Florida Firearms Training (a $400 value),
  5. A Trekker IV™ Four-Person Emergency Kit from Emergency Essentials (a $250 value),
  6. A $200 gift certificate good towards any books published by PrepperPress.com,
  7. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  8. An infrared sensor/imaging camouflage shelter from Snakebite Tactical in Eureka, Montana (A $350+ value),
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  10. American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) is providing a $300 certificate good towards any of their DVD training courses.

Third Prize:

  1. A Model 175 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $439 value),
  2. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  3. A custom made Sage Grouse model utility/field knife from custom knife-maker Jon Kelly Designs, of Eureka, Montana,
  4. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  5. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  6. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  7. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  8. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a $125 Montie gear Gift certificate.,
  9. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value), and
  10. Fifteen LifeStraws from SafeCastle (a $300 value).
  11. A $250 gift certificate to Tober’s Traditions, makers of all natural (organic if possible) personal care products, such as soap, tooth powder, deodorant, sunscreen, lotion, and more.

Round 68 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

The Get-Home Cache, by The Feral Farmer

Bugout bags are a popular topic, and the content lists are long and varied, sometimes reading like a LRRP combat loadout. However, they have a couple of obvious problems, including that you have to carry it and keep it handy.

It takes a good degree of conditioning to carry a load any distance and a great degree of determination to do so while injured or frightened. Additionally, (unless your kit looks like a baby carrier and diaper bag), your chance of hitching a ride plummets the larger your bag appears to be. Any situation that requires a bugout bag automatically makes the holder a target to both criminals and authorities, and it would be a shame to surrender all those neat things at a check point, after carrying them so far.

Keeping a bugout bag within arms reach at all times is, for all intent and purposes, an impossibility. Employers seem to delight in decorating each employee with their own cattle tag and neck strap, but they frown on them wearing tactical bags on the job; yet, if it’s not on you you don’t control it. Having it in your trunk or locker is out of the question, if you just got a “Get Out Now” or “Shelter In Place” order, which is SOP these days.

Caches

This brings us to the use of caches. One can make best time over distance unencumbered, and running, crawling, or climbing is much easier. The simplest cache is buried. The largest, easily-buried cache is an igloo-type, plastic ice chest. I have found that buried with six inches of soil over the top, it can be driven over without damage. While PVC pipes with screw tops are popular, they can be difficult to re-locate, and they take a long time to place, comparatively speaking. A semi-buried cache might be an extra field tile drain next to a real one or two along side a field’s ditch. A tree stump placed among a few others is easily overlooked. One of the roots is used as leverage to raise and access the cache. Another would be the uphill side of a road culvert. They are sized twice the max storm flow, and a box epoxied or magnetized to the top of the inside is unlikely to be discovered, as road crews generally just look to see daylight out the other end, and humans rarely look up. Avoid the tubes that are silted; they are generally used as animal dens and critter crossings, which is why they are a favorite location to place animal traps.

Above ground caches are smaller, but you don’t have to disturb the ground to recover one. Let’s look at road signs. Nearly every sign in America is mounted on a U-shaped metal post, and there is a space between the sign and post. There’s enough room to hold a water filter and milk bottle bags to store water in, or food, a rain poncho, emergency bivy/space blanket, or what have you. Just avoid signs that are stolen, knocked down, or vandalized regularly, and there you go. Pull out the bottom bolt you loosened when you placed your cache, and no one is the wiser. Telephone pedestals are so common that no one notices them. Make a few replicas out of rain gutter or square PVC fence posts, paint them gray, add some stick-on numbers, and plant along a fence row next to a post. I’ve had three in the ground for over five years without discovery. Rural Water District vents and shutoff valves are usually found under a large white PVC tube with a flat black cap poking a foot or so out of the ground. One or two in line with but ½ mile or so from the actual water line won’t attract attention, when placed in a fence line where a mower won’t hit it. Closer to home, an extra PVC inspection tube for a septic tank infiltrator field won’t get any curious visitors, and it’s a better place to keep a spare key than that plastic rock or under the flower pot by your back door. Natural gas line markers are sealed, round topped, hollow fiberglass tubes that are buried only a foot in the ground, usually around five feet on both sides of the line in this part of the country, located on field boundaries and creek crossings. A friend came across a damaged buried electric service box in salvage. With a bit of repair and paint, this weather tight, cast aluminum box now sits along an alley in a housing development, and I noticed someone planted flowers around it. If you get one, change the lock; they all seem to be keyed alike. Have an easily climbed tree on your route? Cut a hatch in a basketball and make a fake squirrel’s nest or birdhouse with a painted on door. I’m co-owner of a little boat dock that now has a section of the dock that lifts up, revealing a plastic float, the top of which has been modified to open up like a chest. You can’t believe all the stuff that can be crammed in it. Railroad employees are notorious for tossing their trash and removed service equipment in the ditches along the track, rather than haul it back to the yard. Near me, a cement pedestal near a grain elevator that once held a signal control box, now has the cast iron box remounted (it was in the ditch), and the new key for the lock is hidden inside the weather cap.

Distance and Content

I hope I’ve given you a few possibilities and ideas that will safely see you home. Now, we shall cover distance and content and the reasoning behind my suggestions.

Each cache should be less than half a day’s walk apart, along the route to your home. Less is better. First, you have to determine if it’s safe to approach the cache. Second, if it is empty or circumstances make it too hazardous to open, you still have the time and the option to head for the next one safely.

Your first cache should be no more than one hour’s walk away. It should be long on water and nondescript warm clothing. An N95 mask would not be out of place if you are at risk to an NBC hazard, and they really mess with the facial recognition wonks. A vacuum sealer reduces clothing to a minimum package size and protects them from the elements. Plastic water bottles completely frozen will swell but rarely leak, and they’ll thaw out inside your clothing after a few hours of hiking, or you cut the plastic off the frozen ice chunk and melt it in a pan or chips in your mouth. Do include gloves and ear warmers. Frozen ears are no fun, and gloves, not only for protection and warmth, reduce physical identifiers, such as fingerprints and DNA.

Your next cache should contain spare communications, food, and cook kit as well as a tracfone purchased for cash in another zip code and a match box-sized backup charger for it, as they cost little. Charge the battery and remove it, and it will stay charged for almost a year. Don’t install the minutes card number or activate the phone until needed. A call to your home’s answering machine with a “Honey, I picked up a pizza and a movie and will be home by six”, or whatever your prearranged code for exfiltration by foot happens to be, isn’t going to alarm the local doorkickers monitoring their Stingray, and it informs anyone at your home of your status and location. A two meter Ham HT can be bought at throw-away prices, and if anything will be working in an emergency you can count on Ham radio. Carry it on a strap across your chest, along with a fluorescent vest, hard hat, and maybe a tool belt, and you disappear by standing out. Few would question the presence of a service worker on foot in a utility easement, and you are forgotten within minutes. Joe Surplus, who on the other hand is camo’ed, backpacked, and packing heat, is going to be reported every time he’s spotted or barked at. Don’t be that guy. Always assume you are being observed.

Your overnight cache contains your bedding, shelter, and toiletries. Handy wipes are a waste of space. Instead, fill a little spray bottle with water. A couple of ounces of water are enough for a pretty good bath, and three more will wash and rinse your hair. Funny thing about human nature is that no matter what harrowing experience they survived, the first thing a victim worries about after the danger is over is a self-conscious concern about their appearance. You are a fleeing refuge, but it is vital for your mental fortitude not to look like one. Like many hard core campers, I favor liquid dish washing soap for cleaning anything. A couple of drops is all it takes. Include a small nail brush. Nothing beats down for weight and warmth. Even in the dead of summer, a 20+ drop in nighttime temperature will make you miserable without shelter from cold, dew, or precipitation. I find a sleeping pad, down Stealth quilt from Jacks ‘r Better, and an inexpensive bivy or nylon tarp to be about the smallest, lightest, and best ultralight sleep system going. The quilt has the added benefit of having a velcro sealed head hole in the center, so that it can be worn as a down poncho. It all packs down to about a two-liter bottle in size. You can easily cook in just one pan, but a second, for beverages and washing, is quite a blessing. A hot drink in the morning predates recorded human history, and for that you need tea. Coffee is bulky, bitterly unpleasant if not carefully prepared, and nasty if instant. Stick to the drink of real outdoorsmen and the Tea Party, and leave the coffee addiction to the poofs in the city where it belongs. Crackers will keep fresh for decades, if vacuum packed in a glass jar.

I recommend caching twice the meals you need. First, food tastes better outdoors, and you are burning lots of calories. Second, you may have to skip a cache on your journey. Third, you may not be traveling alone. Last, you may need your cache to return, to recover tools, belongings, or supplies at a later date.

Finally, the old saying about keeping a secret remains true. Disclosing the location of your caches to anyone may mean you are the one that ends up dead. Someone that has a need to know, should never be told about half of them. You should never place one with your smart phone in your pocket, geocache mark it on a map or device, or place it while driving your on-star or GPS-enabled personal or company vehicle. Leave nothing that identifies you, including prints, hair, bodily fluids, or items you have worn or used. Everything to fill a cache is available for a few dollars at any big box store, and with the popularity of the Engel and Yeti coolers, an old igloo chest is a buck or two at flea markets and garage sales.

Now, get out there, and cache like your life depends on it. It just might.

Letter Re: Motor Oil

Dear Editor and SurvivalBlog Readers:

I have a question about motor oil, because of an incident going back years ago when I had a discussion with a neighbor about changing oil in gas motor yard equipment, lawn motors in this case. I’ll never forget how the neighbor bragged how he never changes oil in his lawn mower. Year after year, it is pulled out in the spring with the old gas and old oil, and away they go. I’ll never forget hearing the screeching sound of that lawn mower motor seizing. Since then, I have heard numerous opinions on oil change schedules, and traditional oil versus synthetic oil. In contrast to the “never change the oil” thinking, I’ve talked to those who religiously change their oil every three months, even if the motor has never been started. With the recommendation of changing oil in a vehicle every three months or every 3,000 miles, whichever comes first, I go with the mileage and not the length of time, up to a year. But then synthetic oil changes everything. If I only put 3,000 miles on a vehicle a year and the recommendation is every 7,500 miles, should I keep it in for two years? And for lawn equipment, should I use synthetic oil in a 4-cycle lawn mower? If I do, should I change it every year, or can I keep it in there for the life of the mower/snowblower? Can I change back to organic oil after using synthetic oil? Can I mix them? I wonder that because I understand that some oil labeled “synthetic” isn’t; it is a mixture, explaining why it is less expensive. I think it would be very valuable to have these answers in the event of general scarcity of services and products. Maybe if everyone that I ask these questions didn’t come up with as many different answers, I wouldn’t be so confused. I am counting on there being an expert out there reading this who can give the definitive answer. I’m all ears. R.T.

HJL’s Comment: Most modern motor oils far exceed the service levels required of them in practically all engines. The motor oil, synthetic, natural, or blends are not changed out because they are beginning to break down; they are changed out because they are dirty. The standard oil filter is required to have enough flow through it so that all parts of the engine requiring lubrication can have an adequate supply. That means that if the filter is built to a practical size, it can only filter down to about 20 microns. A 20 micron particle is still large enough to enhance wear and tear on an engine. The Aero industry has long dealt with this issue by using a bypass filtration setup where approximately 10% of the oil is sent to a bypass filter that is capable of filtering down to 2 microns. Over the course of a couple of minutes, all of the oil in the lubrication system will make its way through this filter, effectively giving you a system that delivers the volume and rate of a 20 micron filter but the effective filtering of a 2 micron filter. Since you have now removed the most common issue (dirty oil), your oil can certainly last a lot longer.

I currently use Amsoil’s Universal Dual Remote Bypass System on my truck. In concert with a good synthetic oil, like Amsoil’s Signature Series, you end up with an oil system that can easily make it to 60,000 miles or 1000 hours of operation. In my case, I don’t put that many miles/hours on the system, so I end up changing the oil once a year just to be safe. (There are other considerations, such as moisture contamination, et cetera.)

You should be aware that most car manufacturers don’t care how much you love your care or how good the oil filtration system is. If you don’t change oil on their recommended schedule, you run the risk of violating the terms of their warranty.

Economics and Investing:

First majestic silver Breakout Of 35-Year Downward Yield Range Will Blow-Up Interest Rate Derivatives ($500 Trillion+)

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Today’s Chart of the Day – Moment of Truth for Bonds. “Bonds are severely oversold. There should be a bounce but if it’s weak, or doesn’t last very long then prepare for a crash. I’ve never seen a bubble yet that popped gracefully.”

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The near extinct pension – US pensions aggressively invest in equities relative to other countries to make up for shortfalls.

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Would Another Corporate Repatriation Tax Holiday Create Jobs?

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Seed corn thief must pay $425,000

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Obama Quietly Signs The “Countering Disinformation And Propaganda Act” Into Law

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I’ve had folks ask about Israel’s Lone Soldier (“Tzofim Garin Tzabar“) program, which I mentioned in my novel Land Of Promise. It is a worthy program that sponsors young adults in making Aliyah to Israel through their service in the Israel Defense Force (IDF.) I believe that the program deserves our support. Donations are tax deductible for Americans. And of course donations made on or before December 31st are deductible for 2016. – JWR

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Mega-Regions: What If We Redrew State Boundaries Today? This Gedankenexperiment ties in nicely to my suggestion of partitioning eastern Oregon and Eastern Washington from their respective western halves. – JWR

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The Grid – K.C.

Springfield Armory 1911 With Laser, by Pat Cascio

My number one choice, if I could only own one handgun, is still the grand old 1911 in some configuration. Yeah, lots of new gun designs come along, and I’ve tested many different handguns over the past 25 years working as a gun writer, and most are outstanding in their own regard. However, when pressed, I’m going to still pick a 1911 in .45 ACP, of course.

Here are some of my thoughts on my choice in a 1911. First of all, there is the proven fight-stopping .45 ACP round. Yes, I’ve read the report put out by the FBI stating that there isn’t all that much difference between the stopping power of a 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP, when loaded with a good JHP bullet. Still, in my mind, I believe that, the .45 ACP will put a bad guy down a little bit faster than the 9mm and .40 S&W rounds will. I don’t know of any way to measure this sort of thing, and I don’t think anyone else does, either, unless they were on the spot and timed just how fast a certain caliber puts a stop to a deadly threat.

Many years ago, my long-time friend Master John McSweeney, who is now departed, and I collaborated on a book called SWAT Battle Tactics, which is still available as an online book. There were some changes made to the book after we read the galley copy, changes we didn’t approve of, so some of the material is not only dated but not relevant. Still, the book is a basic primer for any law enforcement agency or security agency wishing to start a SWAT team. Back in the day, a SWAT team was called out to assist the street cop. Today, SWAT is called out for all manner of things, and, not to put down anyone on a SWAT team, I do get a kick out of watching them suit-up with all their military-style gear and uniforms before deploying to whatever situation they were called out for.

Though I have no desire to be a cop once again, if I were and I was called out to an active shooter situation at say Walmart, I’d want to go in with an AR-15 as my main firearm and whatever handgun I had on my side. Walmart and other similar big box stores are huge, and there is a lot of room to maneuver with a long gun. However, in smaller businesses and small schools, there isn’t a lot of room to work with a long gun. So, my choice would be a 1911 of some sort in .45 ACP in-hand with half a dozen spare magazines. I have all the faith in the world in the platform and the caliber.

Not all 1911 handguns are created equal. You can have a halfway “decent” 1911 made to mil-spec imported from the Philippines or Turkey, and they are really nice guns for under $500. However, they would not be my first choice in a life or death situation. Yep, they’re lots of fun to shoot on the weekend but not guns I’d bet my life or anyone else’s life on. I demand a high quality 1911, when lives are on the line, period!

I’ve remained a huge fan of Springfield Armory 1911s ever since I owned my very first one back in the early/mid 1980s. They are value driven if you ask me. From their basic mil-spec to their top-of-the-line TRP models, they have something for everyone. I received their “loaded” 1911, with a Crimson Trace laser grip on it, for testing for this article. I’m a big fan of lasers on handguns these days. This wasn’t always the case, especially when lasers first came out; they were big and bulky, really big and bulky. Crimson Trace is one of the leaders, if not “the” leader in lasers that are instinctive. That means that most of them turn-on without you having to do anything, other than take a proper grip on a handgun, which is nice, very nice!

The Springfield Armory Loaded 1911 I received came with their parkerized gray frame and slide, both forged for toughness. This is a full-sized, “Government Model” 1911 with a 5-inch barrel that is match-grade and stainless steel and precisely fitted to the slide, too. The gun also comes with the Novak rear sight with two white dots and the front sight has one white dot. It’s very fast to pick up even under stress. We also have a two piece full length recoil guide rod that makes field stripping the gun a little bit more time consuming, but I’ve never had to take a gun apart outside of cleaning and lubing it. I’ve never had to take a gun apart in a gunfight.

This particular model weighs in at 40 ounces unloaded, and it also comes with two 7-rd magazines, as well as a holster, double magazine pouch, and a few other goodies in the well-made carrying/storage case. This alone is at least a $50 value, if not more. There is also an extended combat safety on the left side of the gun, though no ambi safety on the opposite side, and I have no problem with that. With the Crimson Trace laser installed, it is impossible to install a thumb safety on the right side of the gun, unless it was an abbreviated safety; read very small safety. We also have an extended beaver tail grip safety and a flat main spring housing on the gun. The finish was evenly applied, too.

The Crimson Trace laser grip replaces the standard stocks (grips) on this gun, and they are made out of hard rubber. It is activated by a button on the front strap of the gun. If you grip the gun properly, the laser is activated. There’s nothing to think about. BTW, on my sample, the laser was zeroed for 25 yards, which is perfect!

For everyday carry, I like the Blackhawk SERPA hip holster. I prefer the belt loop setup over the paddle, but you can install either on these holsters. For “tactical” use, my choice is hands down the Blackhawk Tactical Thigh Holster, again a SERPA model, that keeps the gun on the right thigh with two added magazine pouches (optional) and of course a couple more spare mag pouches on my left hip. The gun stays very secure in the SERPA holsters. They won’t fall out and release at the touch of a button. Some have complained about their guns getting stuck in these holsters. I’ve never had any such problem.

I have a real “problem” when it comes to testing 1911s; I love shooting them, a lot! And, there was no difference with this offering from Springfield Armory. I had an outstanding selection of ammo to run through this gun. From Buffalo Bore Ammunition I had their 160-gr Barnes TAC XP low-recoil, all copper hollow point, 255-gr Outdoorsman Hard Cast load, which is +P rated, 230-gr FMJ FN +P, 200-gr JHP +P, and their 1850-gr Barnes TAC XP all-copper hollow point that is +P rated. From Black Hills Ammunition, I had their 200-gr Match SWC, 230-gr FMJ, 230-gr JHP +P, and their 185-gr Barnes TAC XP +P load. From Double Tap Ammunition, I had their 230-gr Bonded Defense load that is just shy of a +P load and their 200-gr Bonded Defense load, which again is just shy of being a +P rated load.

The Loaded 1911 was inspected and lubed. (I always use my favorite Italian Gun Grease tactical lube.) Then, I set about testing this nice gun. I fired more than 1,000-rds over several testing sessions and over several months, and the gun was not cleaned or lubed during my testing. It never missed a beat. Every thing I fed it worked great, without a hint of a bobble or malfunction, period! Some 1911s require a break-in period; not so with this gun. It just perked along no matter what was fed into it or who was shooting it. Sometimes I enlist a helper every now and then in my shooting tests.

Of course, there are usually one or two loads of ammo that will give a little better accuracy than other ammo, and the Crimson Trace Loaded model was no different. Accuracy testing was done at 25 yards over a rolled up sleeping bag over the rear of my pickup truck. The number one load giving me 2-inch groups, if I did my part, was the Black Hills 200-gr Match SWC, and this came as no surprise to me. This load has always given me great accuracy, and it is used by a lot of competitors because of this. Second up was the Buffalo Bore 200-gr JHP +P load. It was hovering just shy of three inches, if I did my part all the time. None of the other loads exceeded 3.5 inches, once again, if I was on my game. Many groups were close to three inches. The Double Tap 200-gr Bonded Defense load was showing promise, but I only had half a box of this ammo left over from when I used it in another article. I’ll have to get some more of this ammo from Double Tap for future articles.

Without hesitation, I’d grab this Springfield Armory 1911 and head into harm’s way, facing whatever threat that might come my way. The trigger pull on this gun was right at 4.5 lbs and nice and crisp. I couldn’t ask for much better. With the right load, it will sure save your bacon.

Full retail on this particular 1911 is right around $1,100, but if you shop around you might find it for less. Keep in mind that Springfield 1911s are always in demand. This is a 1911 you can take into combat, on a hostage rescue mission, or just for a fun day of shooting.

– Senior Product Review Editor, Pat Cascio