Letter Re: Why a Practice Garden?

Mr. Rawles,
Tom C. wrote: “This plot of land 10 feet x 12 feet.” That is 120 square feet. That sounds like a nice patch for half a years supply of storage onions if you know what you are doing, or more swiss chard and radishes that your family will know what to do with, given that you water and succession plant. Lets start at the start with soil preparation. How wet or dry is the existing soil? Get out the shovel and turn over a small bit of your prospective patch. Is it hard as concrete or dry and crumbly or a wet ball or a shiny slice of clay ? Go look up what your soil type requires for initial cultivation. Also, how are you getting rid of the existing vegetation? Tilling in a lawn just make the grass happy to propagate further. Method A for starting a garden bed : in the fall, layer cardboard or 10+ sheets of newspaper on the bed area, water well, and immediately cover with chopped leaves, grass clippings, or straw, and some manure if possible, and water again. For good measure cover with black plastic or and old tarp anchored with boards, rocks or landscape timbers. Wait until spring when you will have a lovely garden bed you can easily turnover with hand tools. Method B for starting a garden bed. It’s Spring, the grass is growing. Go spray the patch with evil Roundup, wait a week and start digging with the spade, digging fork and broad fork. Some garden books show a man peeling back the turf with a sharp spade – yea, right, if your yard was recently sodded. Bags of topsoil? Try peat moss, manure, gypsum, sand and/or perlite depending on your soil. So-called topsoil is frequently a marvelous source of weed seed and less nutritious than pork rinds. Time-release granular fertilizer with a low first number or three numbers all the same is a good thing. It won’t hurt and it may be the only nutrition your plants get if your lawn is sod over subsoil from the basement excavation. On to planting and what went wrong “1st Planting list: Just to start the basic “easy” food stuffs. Corn, Navy, Red, and Black beans, Green bell peppers, Tomatoes and transplanted 2 Peach trees and 1 Blackberry bush. The Blackberry was chosen over Blueberry because Blackberries don’t require cross pollination.”

Unfortunately, corn is not the easiest, because it likes lots of water, nitrogen, little competition from weeds, plus corn, sweet or field in a small patch is a critters’ all-you-can-eat buffet : rabbit, groundhog, crow as it is emerging and deer and raccoon the night before it’s fit for roasting ears. Dry beans, navy, red, black: do you know when to harvest to not end up with a moldy mess? No, I don’t know what went wrong with the beans from the information given. Tomatoes and green peppers, beloved of back yard gardeners. Tomatoes are heat and sun lovers, but only to a point. Tomatoes also really like a low nitrogen fertilizer and water, plus being kept free of weeds. Green peppers on the other hand, don’t mind light shade and also like the same fertilizer and water regime. By the way, being in Georgia, when did he plant these “easy” crops ? If he is in the Atlanta area, about April 10 should be a safe planting date for corn and beans. Observe when the farmers in your area are planting corn and soybeans: go and do likewise. Tomatoes and peppers can go out about a week later, but be prepared to cover them if frost threatens. Peaches, yea, they should grow in Georgia J. Blackberries, sure. I’d be more worried about my soil pH than pollinators on blueberries. I haven’t a prayer of growing blueberries in my limy soil. I’ve tried the heavily amended soil, the pH lowering fertilizer – nope, not here. Ten peaches, the first year, really I am impressed. Must have been good nursery grown trees in pots. Blackberries, wait 2 years and they will take over the yard and hold the kids and dog for ransom. Any new fruit plantings take lots of extra water the first summer, even years with good rainfall as they lack the root system to take up the available water in the soil. Your first year with a fruit tree/bush planting is about establishing the root system.

Timing : “Soil Temperature: While we had warm weather after Labor Day, just two or three weeks later overnight temperatures dropped into the 40s.” Umm, did he mean Memorial Day ? Corn and beans should recover from 40 degree nights nicely. Peppers and tomatoes are heat and water lovers. The lack of growth on all four sounds like lack of water and/or nutrition – poor native soil, lack of fertilizer — or they were drowning in standing water. On the Three Sisters, beans fix nitrogen, not squash, also the Three Sister method takes a lot of room, at least three feet between hills of corn and careful cultivation until the squash member zooms out growing a month after it has been planted in warm soil, usually two weeks to a month after the earlier planting of corn, traditionally, when oak leaves are as big as squirrel’s ears. You’ll not get the best yield of any of the three, but the squash family member will be happy. 2nd Planting: June Carrots, Lettuce, Green peas, Cucumbers. The only thing that will grow well in this planting sequence is cucumbers. Carrots, lettuce and green peas all prefer cool weather of early spring. In the Atlanta area, you might be planting this trio as early as January 15, definitely by February 1. 3rd Planting: July Pie Pumpkin Yes ! third time must be the charm. Timing is right for a place with a first frost usually after November 1 for a Halloween pumpkin. The big mistake was relying on gardening information that is not local to his area. In the US, your state land grant university has trained thousands of people to understand local conditions and many of them have made a career in horticulture with some dozens in active advice practice : your local county extension. Even if your local county extension office has closed, or lacks a horticulture specialist, start web searching your state’s land grant university, extension service, vegetables, then start following links. Somewhere you will find planting calendars, variety suggestions and much helpful information. For example, here is a planting calendar for Georgia. – DirtDigger in the eastern Corn Belt

JWR Replies: Tom also mentioned: “The inexpensive top soil I bought turned out to me mostly chips of wood with some dirt.”  Beware that many types of wood and bark actually bind (“tie up”) nitrogen, in effect robbing the soil of nitrogen for many years until the wood fully decomposes. If you make this mistake, you can counteract it by adding nitrogen fertilizer, but it is best to avoid getting many wood chips or any significant quantities of bark into your compost and garden soil in the first place! Douglas fir bark, for example, has a carbon to nitrogen ratio of 491:1.

Letter Re: Amish Populations Bugging Out

Mr. Rawles:
I saw the response to your link regarding the Amish and I concur. These folks are wonderful and are very good for a community. Where I come from in central Michigan the Amish community makes pallets. Trucks from far and wide go out of their way to come through the area for these high quality pallets. The pallets are just the base of their community. They also run a store that beats everybody, even Wal-Mart, on price. Sure, they don’t sell all that cheap Chinese stuff, but I consider that a plus. I can’t go past the store without picking up a 2 lb chunk of cheese for $2 (not ‘orange’ partially hydrogenated cheese-like-food, but real Pinconning, Mozzarella, Cheddar, and specialty stuff). I also buy their 2 pound, $2 roast beef, turkey, chicken, or pepperoni lunch meats. There is always some high quality item that is under half the price I would see elsewhere.

Then there is the best of all, the carpenters. This falls on the outskirts of the Amish community, but wouldn’t be happening if they were not in the area. There are a handful of ‘ex-Amish’ contractors in the area that do excellent work. They still have connections in the Amish community and can get some of the high-skilled craftsmen to come out and do everything from putting in a new staircase to raising a barn in a day (except electrical & high end plumbing;) I’ve seen these guys refurbish old, run-down 1880s houses and make them look new again, including all the detailed woodwork. And they do all this while being pleasant and truthful. They will not tell you they will be finished tomorrow when its not true, or they will have more roast beef tomorrow if it is not true. They do not come around knocking on your door trying to convert you. When I really think about it, they are the best group of people I know. – A.B.

Economics and Investing:

Does this sound familiar? Investors seeing farmland as safer bet than stocks. (A hat tip to M.M. for the link.)

This piece by Ambrose Evans-Pritchard is thought provoking: QE2 in Round Trillions

Nevada unemployment rises to all-time high 14.4 percent.

US Government ‘hiding true amount of debt’

Fed hints it could buy more bonds

Items from The Economatrix:

Gerald Celente: We Won’t Recover

$2,500 Gold Could Easily Result in $178.50 Silver

UK: Middle Class Families Could Face “Lie Detector” Tests Over Taxes

20 Signs That The Economic Collapse Has Already Begun For One Out Of Seven Americans

How High Will Gold Climb?

Gold’s Rally: Breakout or Fakeout?

Stocks Mixed As Fed Leaves Door Open For Stimulus

Odds ‘n Sods:

Mac Slavo (over at the SHTFPlan blog) asks: How Many Guns Are Too Many? FWIW, here in The Un-Named Western State (TUWS), owning 40 guns is considered just “a decent collection”, and “serious collectors” must have at least 100 guns. (Thanks to K.T. for the link.)

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K.T. sent us a link to an interesting video produced by the CATO Institute: Cops on Camera.

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I stumbled into this, while web wandering: Double The Anger: Two “Mad Max” Sequels Shooting Back To Back. Oh, and speaking of anticipated movies, the release date for the remake of Red Dawn has been delayed, due to financial problems at MGM.

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Damon S. spotted this: The Art Of The Bug-Out Bag

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"There is a secret pride in every human heart that revolts at tyranny. You may order and drive an individual, but you cannot make him respect you." – William Hazlitt

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 30 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, and B.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 30 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Hunting Rifle Selection for Big Game: Plain and Simple Basics, by SplitHoof

Recently I have been asked by a number of friends and associates for specific recommendations on the selection of suitable rifles for hunting big game (including feral hogs, deer, problematic black bears, etc.). Rather than spending considerable time conversing with everyone on an individual basis through a whole bunch of e-mail messages, I will offer some of my own brief personal observations as a starting point, and then will be glad to answer any additional questions for those who may be so inclined to ask.  I must make it perfectly clear from the start that I do not consider myself to be some anointed “expert”, but rather someone who has learned a few lessons over the past years.  Because my views are not going to be published in any for-profit endeavor, I am not beholden to any particular manufacturer for opinions expressed.  With this in mind, I will focus on a few different models that will provide excellent service, yet be cost effective and of a good value for the money spent. 

When hunting any kind of game, the objective is to dispatch the game animal quickly and humanely while using a minimal number of rounds of ammunition.  Of primary importance in this are two critical factors: exactly where the bullet strikes the animal, and the construction of the bullet itself; it must be matched to the type of game to be taken.  In order for the bullet to strike where it must, the operator must be able to deliver the shot from any number of field shooting positions, under time pressure. The weapon selected for this need not be fancy or expensive, but it must be reliable, and the operator must know it thoroughly inside and out.  There are several action types to choose from, such as single shot, semi-automatic, pump, lever, bolt, etc., and all can be used effectively, and each has specific advantages to offer.  Due to the popularity of the basic bolt-action design, many manufactures offer it in a wide variety of calibers and barrel lengths.  Add to this several different stock designs and finishes, other features such as blue steel or stainless, detachable magazines, integral scope mounting bases, sling swivels, etc., and one can have many different choices that can seem complicated.  I have observed that weapons featuring all the latest gadgets, bells and whistles, and in the flavor-of-the-day wiz-bang calibers offer no real advantage for the majority of hunters, but likely serve to keep the manufactures busy dreaming up what they will offer the following year.  However, understand that there are some special circumstances where specialized equipment can make the difference for an experienced hunter, but this article is not geared in that direction.  Let us not waste money on stuff we don’t need.  Let us instead invest in a simple, reliable and accurate weapons package, and become highly proficient in the use of such.  

For the purpose of this article, I will focus on a few bolt-action hunting rifles, currently offered in popular calibers.  Why?  For starters, the basic mass produced bolt-action design is simple to operate, reliable, very strong, inherently accurate, easy to maintain, easy to carry in the field, and affordable.  Given a decent optical sight and a couple of small extras, it will be just as good as anything else for the greatest majority of our needs.  True, custom rifles built from the ground up are fun to own and give great pride of ownership, and performance to match, but they can be cost prohibitive.

Ammunition and caliber selection:  If there is one aspect of my choices that will generate debate, it is this one.  There are many suitable calibers that will do the job, some better than others.  Many are so very close in ballistic qualities that the differences in actual field conditions are negligible.  Several are re-hashed versions of older cartridges that failed commercially, and have been brought back to life under new names.  A few may actually offer very good performance but are expensive when compared to others.  True, the cost of a few rounds of ammunition is only a very small part of a successful hunt, but the ability to properly use any given rifle and achieve good results demands that the operator use sufficient ammunition in practice to be skilled.  One has only to compare the costs of different cartridges (with similar bullets) suitable for big game hunting to see what I mean by this. While this can be mitigated to some extent by assembling your own ammunition, for many this is not cost effective due to initial start-up costs.  Another major factor in caliber selection is the ability to purchase ammunition in just about any place in the world.  Try finding the latest wiz-bang ammunition in some small town sporting goods store or local Wal-Mart on a Sunday afternoon, let alone in a foreign country. For this reason, I stay with my two favorites, the .30-06 Springfield and its shorter cousin the .308 Winchester.

The .30-06 Springfield is a long-time favorite for literally millions of hunters in every corner of the world.  Adopted by the United States military in 1906, it has accounted for a huge number of game animals, large and small.  It is very versatile, and is offered by every major manufacturer in a wide variety of bullet configurations suitable for just about any game one could take within the scope of it’s power range.  I have used it with great success to take a variety of game, and have found it to be very accurate in a number of different rifles.  With the availability of decent military surplus ammunition of good quality, sufficient practice in field shooting scenarios and techniques can be done without burning up a pile of more expensive hunting loads.  

Adopted by the United Stated military in 1955 as the T-65, and first commercially offered by Winchester, the .308 is my second favorite choice for gig game.  It uses the same bullet diameter as the .30-06, but in a slightly shorter case.  Because it uses a shorter case, the length of the rifle’s action can be made a bit shorter, thus reducing the overall length. The ballistics of this cartridge are very close to that of the .30-06, although bullet weights for hunting are typically lighter than that of the .30-06.  The .308 Winchester has taken a large number of game animals, and like the .30-06, it well suited for our purposes.  In military nomenclature, it is known as the 7.62×51 NATO, with lots of good surplus loadings available for less-expensive practice sessions. It has a history as a sniping and machine-gun round, and is very versatile. I have had excellent results with this cartridge hunting a variety of game.  My most accurate center-fire rifle, a Remington 700P, is chambered for this.

When it comes to selecting a suitable big game hunting rifle, there are what seems to be endless choices of caliber, finish, stock material, barrel length, sight arrangements, and other options in the fore-mentioned action types by a whole bunch of manufactures. What follows are some observations as to brands and models of the bolt-action types observed by myself and a couple of associates whom I have hunted with and also have a good bit of shooting experience.

Ruger: Offering several models based on the Model 77 action, the newest and improved offerings called the Hawkeye line, feature very good triggers, integral scope bases, choices of finish and stock material, and models of compact or standard length.  My personal favorite is the “All Weather” line in stainless steel with synthetic stock.  At this time, it is listed in .308 and .30-06.

Remington: The Model 770 is a base model entry-level rifle featuring a polymer stock with integral trigger guard in a very simple action. An associate uses one in .30-06, and is able to get quite acceptable accuracy from it.  While not my preference, it will get the job done.  The Model 700 is the rifle by which all others are judged.  Released in 1962, it is one of the most accurate rifles out of the box.  Available in many different versions, it is favored as a basis for many custom rifles, and has a proven record in military use and as a sniping weapon by countless law enforcement agencies. As a hunting arm, it is offered in numerous calibers and configurations.  It has been my go-to hunting rifle model, and has never failed my uses.  It’s short-action cousin, the Model 7, is a shortened version and very well liked.

Savage: Often overlooked, Savage offers quite an impressive line of quality bolt-actions mostly based on the Model 110 and it’s variants.  A unique feature is the barrel system, which uses a special retaining nut that can be removed and replaced much easier than most designs.  Custom builders like this for creating switch-barrel rifles.  My preferences are models in the Weather Warrior series, featuring the newer AccuTriggers and the new AccuStock design.  I have seen Savage rifles used to take game, and observed their use in various tactical shooting competitive events, and believe they represent a very good value.

Mossberg: They currently offer hunting rifles in .30-06 and .308 Winchester in the 100 ATR line.  Several of the variants feature rifle scope bases installed, and some have a very durable applied metal finish. Synthetic stocks are available.  While I have limited experience with this line, and they are very new, I liked the sample I test-fired.  

Thompson Center (T/C): Offers a line of bolt-action rifles called the Icon.  While not inexpensive, features such as integral scope bases, detachable magazines, quality barrels and several finish and stock options make this brand worth a good look.  Available calibers are several, including .30-06 and .308 Winchester.

Winchester/FN: The Model 70 dates back for many years, and has included numerous variations in a variety of calibers. Often referred to as the “Rifleman’s Rifle”, it has an almost cult following.  However, due to a storied history of manufacture and company ownership, it would take quite a bit of writing to cover even half of it, and at this time I am not sure of exactly what is being offered and in what configurations.  I can say this: if one researches the different Model 70 variations, he can find some very quality used rifles out there.  The newer versions produced here by FN look promising.

No big game hunting rifle is complete with out a few basic accessories.  Some are affixed to the rifle itself, some can be carried by the hunter.  Suffice to say that those accessories that are not affixed can become lost or forgotten, so plan accordingly.

Telescopic sights are a great aid to accurate shooting, and when chosen properly can help ensure a successful outcome.  For big game rifles, a high magnification is not really necessary, and I have had great success using 4X or 6X fixed power models.  I recommend using some form of the basic duplex reticle.  Other types can be too busy, and it is easy to become confused when making a quick shot.  Variable power range models are acceptable, and the better quality brands are repeatable throughout the power range.  I have had very good results using scopes built by Leupold, and recommend them for many applications. Excellent quality is the norm, and the range of available models is extensive. One inch main-tubes are well suited to hunting rifles, but for peak performance a 30 millimeter main-tube is tops. However, expect to pay a premium for this.  I have used models featuring illuminated reticles, but this feature elevates the cost substantially, usually beyond the budgets of most hunters.  One more important point: the bigger a scope is, the higher above the centerline of the rifle’s bore it must be mounted.  This can severely interfere with getting a proper cheek weld on the stock, thus making field shooting more difficult.

Iron sights are unfortunately missing from too many rifles these days, but I have them on my favorite Model 700 as a backup if my scope is damaged in the field.  The scope rings on this rifle are the quick detachable type, helping to make the transition from scope to iron sights much quicker.

Slings are a great aid, not only for carry, but also as an aid to field shooting if you have learned the proper technique.  Most rifle manufactures offer only a basic carry strap design, but I have found that the “Ching Sling” is excellent.  [JWR Adds: The very best nylon Ching Slings were formerly made by Wilderness Products (sadly discontinued), but very good quality leather Ching Slings are still made by Galco.] This sling design requires the installation of a third swivel stud forward of the trigger guard.  Once you learn to use this, you will want one on all your rifles.

Bipods of the folding type mounted under the forearm have worked very well for me.  I always try to get into the most stable shooting position, and this type offers the greatest speed.  I use bipods made by Harris exclusively. While not the lightest, they are the best quality for the price.  Some folks don’t like them for whatever reason, but I have found them to be an essential accessory.  Avoid the imported copies if possible.

Factory rifle packages that include scopes are a nice idea, but most feature cheap, lower quality imported optics.  Spend a bit more money up front to set up your rig correctly.  It will be worth the expense later on. 

All the above information is a start on equipment selection, but it is only the views and expressions of one man.  Every hunter or shooter will have their own ideas about what may be best suited for them, and there are enough options out there to handle most every need.  If I can add one more important aspect to this, it is that proper training and practice in safe, efficient gun handling skills and field shooting techniques is absolutely necessary.  All the best equipment in the world will not make up for a lack of purposeful quality practice. In a future SurvivalBlog post, will present a detailed writing of what practice and range drills have proved useful to me for those who are interested.

Letter Re: Family Preparedness: How to Protect Your Infant Child

Good morning Mr. Rawles,
In regards to the “Family Preparedness: How to Protect Your Infant Child“, I just wanted to comment that wool diaper covers need to be washed less often, do not smell at all and two is all you need. Plus, they are just more comfortable for infants than plastic, no matter how cute or functional. They also breathe better and keep baby warm even when wet, which is important if you are changing less often than usual.

Mother-Ease diapers are handy – no folding, no velcro, and they are one-size fits all. You can also buy doublers that make it good for a night time diaper.

Rice paper diaper liners are excellent for just pulling away waste from the diapers and then you can throw that away, hopefully reducing waste removal on your diaper itself – less washing.

Slings are more useful than carriers, even for larger children. They can be used as ground cloths, blankets, handkerchiefs, sun shades etc, which a carrier just cannot do. See the Maya Wrap.

Thanks! – Kerry

Letter Re: Amish Populations Bugging Out

JWR-
Regarding this recently posted link: Amish populations bugging out, gradually heading west, Southwestern Idaho and Eastern Oregon have been under “invasion” for a number of years, mainly by Amish Mennonites – an offshoot of the Old Order Amish. Unlike the other invaders from California and other urban high populations who bring with them all their problems, attitudes and sometimes rudeness, these are good quality people who bring with them many fine qualities, morals and values. They are respectful and genuine. Most are skilled carpenters or have similar “hands-on” skills. While they tend to keep to themselves as far as their socializing. They are easy to work with and seem to be kind and good willed. In short if your community is “invaded” by these or other Amish consider yourself very lucky to have them come to your area! – RBS

Economics and Investing:

Susan H. sent this: U.S. Dollar Now Ripe For Catastrophic Devaluation. Here is quote that might have a familiar ring: “The inflation vs. deflation debate has been raging for nearly three years, but I suspect that when all is said and done, we will find that both sides in a sense were correct. The people who consistently miss the mark on what is truly going on in the economy are those who blindly insist that this is an either/or situation. The fact is, we are seeing symptoms of BOTH deflation and inflation simultaneously. Deflation in jobs, stocks, real estate, and wages. Inflation in energy, food, and commodities. At bottom, we are seeing the worst of both worlds colliding to make a financial mutation, an aberration of the natural processes of supply and demand. Our economy has become a frothing rampaging Frankenstein’s monster bent on the destruction of its former benefactors; the American citizenry. Anyone who alleges otherwise is either a liar, or a fool.”

Siggy spotted this in Macleans: Third World America

More of the MOAB, just as predicted: Momentum Gathers For A New, Massive Bailout Of Homeowners. (Thanks to B.B. for the link.)

A posse of readers sent this item that shows how Nanny State Britannia is plumbing new depths: UK Proposes All Paychecks Go to the State First.

Items from The Economatrix:

Economic Panel Says Recession Ended in June 2009

Stocks Extend September Rally; S&P Breaks Out of Range

Homebuilders’ Confidence Stuck at 18-Month Low

New “Normal” is Fear Over the Economy

After Friday’s Panic, Will Ireland Go The Way Of Greece?

Odds ‘n Sods:

When the subject of widespread EMP comes up, some folks blithely say: “We can just go back to vacuum tube technology”. But consider all the underlying technologies and metallurgy represented in this video produced by an electronics hobbyist in France: Hand Making Vacuum Tubes. (Thanks to Gaston for the link.)

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Bob G. mentioned this book excerpt: Books of The Times: ‘The Coming Famine’ by Julian Cribb

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L.H. spotted this: What NASA says you should keep on hand, for disasters. It all fits in a trash can. L.H. had this comment: “Not a bad list, just a little shy on depth.”

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 30 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, and B.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 30 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Long-Term Preparedness and the Eight Mechanical Arts, by J.D.

It’s one thing to prepare for an unexpected event that you can ride out in the course of a week or two; secure, defensible shelter that functions without the grid, a store of food and water, and stockpiles of essentials such as ammo and medical supplies may be more than enough to last until the disaster passes and social order is restored. But what about long-term survival in the face of TEOTWAWKI? 

I’ve always found it instructive to study how we lived before 20th-century innovations such as electricity and refrigeration and potable water piped right into the kitchen. It wasn’t that long ago; my dad’s folks didn’t have electricity until he was a teen and his grandparents spent most of their life in a home where going to the bathroom at night required boots and a lantern. When great-grandpa shot a mink that was threatening the chickens, his wife didn’t think twice about making gloves and a stole from the pelt. Could you produce gloves from a rabbit pelt? Or, for that matter, turn a sheaf of wheat into a loaf of bread? They had skills that we have forgotten; knowledge that we need to relearn should our technologically-enabled lifestyle be unexpectedly set back a century or two.

Mechanical Arts is an obsolete and archaic term from the European Middle Ages; it referred to the practical skills required of the lower class, as opposed to the Liberal Arts and Performing Arts mastered by the upper crust and intelligentsia. The eight mechanical arts make a good springboard for reviewing the skills that we need to re-master if we are to live – not just survive – in the face of long-term social collapse. The eight mechanical arts of medieval tradition are weaving, blacksmithing, war, navigation, agriculture, hunting, medicine, and theater.

Modern weaving encompasses everything from basic sewing skills – on a non-electric machine – to the production of thread, cloth, and yarn from basic agricultural products. The latter requires quite a long-term view, but it isn’t out of the question to make sure that your group has a functional antique sewing machine and people with the skill to use it. Knitting and crocheting are fine hobbies that might prove to be useful skills should the need arise. And basic hand-sewing is a skill everyone needs; in a crisis, cloth may not be the only thing that needs a bit of emergency stitching. I would include tanning in this category; make sure someone in your group is able to turn a deer hide into useable buckskin.

Traditional blacksmithing is also a fine hobby that becomes a useful survival skill. In the modern view, competence with cutting and welding equipment falls into this category as well. The ability to cut and shape metal – however you do it – will put your skills in constant demand. I would include basic mechanical skills as well. If you have useful, non-electric machinery (windmills and well pumps and that antique sewing machine come to mind) and animal-drawn farm tools that you can keep in good repair, you’ll be in better shape than most of your neighbors.

Much has been written about home defense in the face of chaos. Every member of your group needs to be trained in the basics. Again, this makes a fine diversion here in the real world; I am continually astounded as to how readily the girls take to occasional outings to the local shooting range. Advanced skills range from leadership training and gunsmithing to tactical surveys of your terrain. One acquaintance (and this is an example of extreme and probably illegal preparedness) has located the most likely spots where an assaulting force might take cover and has not only set up lines of fire into those locations but has run underground wires so he can quickly connect and conceal his Claymores. I’ll hail his bunker from a good safe distance should the need arise!

Navigation by the sun and stars is an art that most of us GPS-enabled survivalists have never learned. It’s probably not necessary; chances are you’re already quite familiar with the locale around your refuge and establishing north from the stars or tree moss runs a distant second to a good pocket compass. But it wouldn’t hurt for your group to master some basic wilderness trekking skills. This makes for a fun activity; take a day class, or set up a course of waypoints and instructions yourself, with a prize (or food and beer!) at the end.

Agriculture and hunting are probably among the most necessary and most varied of these skills. Your group may already include avid hunters who can not only bring down food but prepare it in the field. This may include gunsmithing and bow hunting; it does not include recreational fishing, which is fun but usually calorie-negative. Agriculture in the face of adversity is actually more difficult than hunting. If you already have a hobby farm (and you should, in conjunction with your survival compound), think about how you would get water to your plants and animals without the electric pump at the bottom of the well. Raising fruits and vegetables is one thing; can you turn your wheat and corn into flour? This is a skill that will stand you in good stead in the face of long-term separation from the local grocery store. I would place cooking and food preparation in this category as well, where the big question is: can you prepare and store food for long-term storage without electricity or refrigeration? And for those with large enough lots, keeping animals – whether they be chickens, pigs, goats, or cattle – will be a great benefit over the long run. Sadly, agriculture as a hobby is almost always a money-loser – you simply cannot produce eggs for what they cost at the store and I weep every time I see corn at five ears for a dollar – but you may find home-grown tomatoes and free-range eggs sufficiently tasty to give it a try. And, while illegal, running a home still is both educational and entertaining – and good moonshine whisky might be as valuable a trade item as gold as well as useful as antiseptic or emergency fuel. In a real emergency, you can drink it as well.

A doctor in the group is pure gold, but the problems of long-term survival without access to modern health care are numerous and difficult to overcome. Are there diabetics in your family? Insulin will be impossible to find. Do members have high blood pressure or severe allergies? Your stockpile of medication will not last long and lifestyle changes will be required. Survivalist medicine runs the gamut from medical diagnosis and emergency surgery (do you want to lose a child to something as routine as appendicitis – or mistakenly cut into a belly when the problem is merely heartburn?) to growing and processing your own medicinal plants. Willow-bark tea is a far cry from oxycodone, but it may be all you can get. But at the least every member of your group needs to be trained in basic first aid, including dressing wounds and setting broken bones in the field. And for the long term, a good class in childbirth for the potential mothers and midwives in your group.

Like it or not, you and your group will have to interact with those around you – if for no other reason than to get news and barter what you have for what you need – and good social skills are a must. Fortunately, most of us work and play in large groups and the isolated hermit is a curiosity of the past. However, it wouldn’t hurt to brush up on your negotiating skills; the day may come when your life depends on it.

One could not expect any individual to master more than a handful of these; indeed, one could argue that the advent of individual specialization was the beginning of modern civilization. But even a fairly small group can cover most with relative ease. And practice of these arts as hobbies may lead to a good deal of personal satisfaction as well as the comfort in knowing that you are prepared for the worst.     

Letter Re: Prospects for Canada in a Societal Collapse?

Hi Jim,
I just finished your book, “Patriots”, (had trouble putting it down…), and am wondering if you could further expand your thoughts on what would happen in Canada under the same circumstances. There are only a couple of references made to Canada in your book – global socialist country (I believe it was), and Mary mentioning that they had “liberated Canada” at the end.

Obviously I live up here (Southern Alberta), and am currently prepping for TEOTWAWKI. Based your books, what should I be doing different? Or should be aware of? (Other than the outrageous gun controls we have.) Any advice or info is greatly appreciated. Kind regards, – Peter C. in Canada

JWR Replies: I think that some of the rural areas in Canada–especially western Canada–might do better than the U.S., if there is a “Grid up” deep depression. But if the grids go down, the more severe climate will likely result is a significant die-off in Canada, especially in the big cities and suburbs. But at least the cold climate will keep the refugee riffraff in the U.S. from heading in that direction.

There are a few nice exceptions in the Canadian gun and magazine ban, including the M1 Garand. Those will be covered in an upcoming article.