Odds ‘n Sods:

Yesterday, I visited a coin show in Sacramento, California. With the recent dip in silver and gold bullion prices, there were some eager buyers in attendance. Three different dealers all told me essentially the same thing: They think that we are witnessing perhaps the last big dip before the bull market resumes, to propel gold past $800 per ounce. Buy on the dips!

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Michael Z. Williamson mentioned this web page on a flu prevention breakthrough: a modified flu designed to fight the flu.

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Federal Reserve chairman Ben Bernanke says: Baby Boomers will strain the U.S. Social Security and Medicare systems.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Next to the right of liberty, the right of property is the most important individual right guaranteed by the Constitution and the one which, united with that of personal liberty, has contributed more to the growth of civilization than any other institution established by the human race." – William Howard Taft

Note From JWR:

Today we a present part one of a two part article, courtesy of one of our advertisers, Freeze Dry Guy ("FDG"). As a former Special Forces trooper, he really knows his stuff.

The Survival Rucksack (Backpack) – Part 1, by FDG

The information contained in these writings represents the opinions of the author. The author assumes no responsibility for the use or misuse of the information contained herein
What if tonight you had to get up and walk out of your home for an undetermined period of time with only those items you carried in your hands and on your back?.
Before 9/11 it was unlikely, today it is quite probable.

This article is dedicated to: Jesus Christ who gave his life for me, My Father who taught me honor, My Mother who gave me life, All of my Children, My old S.F. Buddies, Americans All, and Survivors.

Why the Survival Rucksack? Ah, that is the question!
For one thing, it’s a really great place to keep all your gear so you can find it the next time you need it!
Mindset:
Your mission is to survive with your loved ones for whatever period of time necessary, with what you carry on your back and in your hands. Think of yourself as the tortoise, at home, totally self sufficient but all the while knowing you must be prepared to act as the Hare, able to scamper away quickly, with the tools needed for survival.
Below, you will find my ideas on what the best packs are for the money, how to rig them, and what to put in them for the purpose of survival.
My opinions are formed from 44 years of backpacking, both as a kid, and in the U.S. military with 26 years combined service as a Marine, an Army Special Forces soldier and a Combat Engineer Trainer in the Army National Guard. I hope there is something within these writings that you find useful. Mine is by far not the last word on this subject. I invite your comments, good, bad and ugly (hopefully not too ugly).
You know what they say about opinions. Some of you will agree with me, others will not. I do not claim to be an expert at anything, only a student. Experts worry me. I was once asked by an old S.F. Sergeant if there were any experts present. Naturally I eagerly raised both of my hands along with several other young troopers.
Wrong! The old Sergeant then proceeded to explain that there is no such thing as an expert, and we were incredibly foolish to assume we bore that title. We were students and hopefully would someday become good ones; a point he made very clear. The definition of an expert he said is: Ex: a has-been, Spurt: a drip under pressure! I never described myself as an expert again. “Experts” can get you killed.
Survival is the same way. With a positive attitude, a fair amount of knowledge, and a little luck; mixed in with a dash of humility and some good common sense, you have an excellent chance of coming out on top.Once upon a time an “expert” told me “Don’t waste your money on expensive survival equipment, you probably won’t need it anyway”–only moments before he broke the hollow pot metal handle off his Chinese made “Rambo Survival Knife. This was an unwise man. My experience has proven that you should always buy the best quality equipment you can afford. The low price paid for cheap equipment will quickly be forgotten when it fails at the time you need it most. Remember that cheap discount store rain poncho that ripped the first time you used it?
Note: The 3 Levels of survival as they pertain to the Survival Rucksack.
Think Modular.
Each level below allows you to survive, although with a diminishing level of certainty and comfort.
1. Rucksack with attached patrol pack and web gear.
2. Patrol pack and web gear
3. Web gear
For the sake of redundancy to make a point I may repeat my self occasionally, plus I am an old guy and sometimes I tend to forget what I have already said.
.
Commercial or Military surplus packs, a dilemma.
U.S. Military (surplus, but in new or excellent condition).
Civilian
Foreign Military
Civilian or Military equipment: Pros and Cons of each
Civilian, Pros: Usually more advanced
Usually very comfortable
Lighter than military

Cons: Usually not as rugged as military
Usually much more expensive
Fewer places to hang gear on outside of pack
Often times available only in bright colors (do you want to be seen)
Military, Pros: Much less expensive than civilian
Widely available
Very rugged
Subdued colors
More places to hang equipment on outside of pack
Generally more pockets for storing gear, easier to access more items of equipment
Some packs can be made quite comfortable with certain after market modifications

Cons: Often times not as comfortable as civilian packs
Usually heavier than civilian packs
Often not as well designed as civilian packs

For the money, I generally prefer the military pack over the civilian pack if it meets my criteria, but do not misunderstand, money is not the most important issue. If a military pack has the comfort and versatility or can be modified to that end to perform adequately, I will almost always go with the military over the civilian pack.
Some basic terms:
Rucksack: Same meaning as backpack.
Haversack: A small frameless pack like the ones used by the U.S.M.C and U. S. Army during WWII, Korea and the early days of Vietnam. Not recommended as a Survival Rucksack, but can be used in a “Daypack” role, attached to the Survival Rucksack.
Packboard: As used by our military from WWII, through Vietnam. As the name states, it is a contoured board, usually of plywood, painted OD to camouflage it and protect it from the elements.
Butt Pack: Just like the name says. You have seen the commercial ones, usually with a couple of water bottles attached whenever you have gone for a day hike.
Frameless pack: Essentially the same as a haversack, usually just bigger. I do not recommend these as your main Survival Rucksack or for carrying weights of over about 25 lbs.
External Frame Pack: Just as the name implies, it has the frame on the outside of the pack. I prefer the external frame pack as my Survival Rucksack of choice. They are usually more comfortable and the frame makes it easy to attach extra needed equipment. Additionally, the external frame holds the Rucksack away from your back, providing cooling to your body.
Internal Frame Pack: This pack has it’s frame on the inside of the pack, next to your back, usually in the form of aluminum stays that can be bent to fit the contour of your back. If you get this pack and the stays properly fitted to your back it can be a very comfortable pack to carry. One advantage of this kind of pack is that if fit properly it moves well with your body. A big down side to this pack not often considered is that it makes you sweat very badly where it contacts your entire back. This often accelerates overheating in hot weather and it can lead to serious chilling in cold weather when you take the pack off. Even during winter weather, your back will get wet with this pack
Patrol Pack: Usually a small frameless daypack that clips onto your main rucksack and detaches for patrolling or getaway purposes. It usually carries enough food and gear for 1 – 3 days.

U.S. Packs I have used during my military career:
WWII Marine Corps Haversack:
An abomination then and now. Told we could carry up to 45 lbs it felt like 75. Very uncomfortable, the only advantage to this pack was that you could run well with it. It really tore up your shoulders and under your arms. Not recommended except as a patrol pack.
WWII Army Haversack:
A couple notches up from the Marine Corps pack. It had better padding but that is about all. Not recommended, except as a patrol pack to be used in conjunction with your main Ruck Sack.
WWII Army Packboard:
I carried up to 110 pounds on this packboard daily. I attached two Jungle Rucksack bags, one
above the other. This was a pretty good system for the day, but it lacked properly padded shoulder
straps and a good padded waist belt. This system carried a lot of gear if you were up to the task
but was a terrifying contraption to jump out of an airplane with ——-but that’s another story.

WWII Army Bergens Pack:
This was a knockoff of the Swiss alpine Rucksack and was used by U.S. Special Forces during the 50s and into the 60s. It had three outside pockets and one large main compartment. This also was a pretty good pack for the day, but it too lacked well padded shoulder straps, a good waist belt and it did not have ample attachment points to hang extra gear.
Jungle Ruck Sack, circa 1960s:
This was for it’s day, the most poorly designed, uncomfortable piece of junk the U.S. Military ever palmed off on the American G.I. A rather small nylon main bag with two outside pockets, it fit poorly, bounced up and down like a jack hammer when you ran, and carried all it’s weight on your shoulders. After about 35 lbs, it became extremely uncomfortable. A code of honor in Special Forces stated that you never donned a rucksack that weighed less than 70 lbs. That amount of weight compared to today’s standards with modern equipment was equal to at least 120 lbs. There are still some of them floating around out there. Stay away from this one unless you have a Chiropractor in the family.
ALICE Pack:
One of my all time favorites. The ALICE often gets a bad rap, but I have some ideas on how to
make it into a first rate Survival Pack. There are two sizes of ALICE Pack. There is the Large
ALICE, and there is the Medium ALICE. Where is the Small ALICE you ask? I don’t know. In
fact I have never met anyone who has ever seen one. There are civilian knockoff’s (mostly
imports) that are called Small ALICEs, but I have never seen a U.S. issue Small ALICE pack. Very interesting.
CFP 90 Internal Frame Rucksack:
Not a bad pack, I guess, but if you don’t get the fit just right, it can be pretty tough on your back.
This pack was designed as the Special Ops pack for the Army about 15 years ago. It was
designed by a good civilian pack manufacturer, but by the time the Army got done messing
around with it, they had pretty well ruined it. A big pack with internal aluminum stays, it comes
with a detachable patrol pack. It’s not great, but it’s okay if fitted properly.
MOLLE:
This is the new “Hoo-Yah” do everything for everybody modular rucksack that the
U.S. Military invested over $20,000,000 into developing at last count; and still don’t have it right.
Soldiers often complain of it not fitting right and hurting their backs. Most of the old timers who
know what they are doing still won’t give up their beloved ALICE Packs for this one. This
system is highly overrated and very pricey. If you can find a complete system for less than $500,
you should consider yourself as having found a bargain. An overpriced bargain that really looks
cool and often hurts your back , but a bargain just the same.
Italian Army Mountain Rucksack:
Current issue in woodland Camouflage with detachable patrol pack. I have found a few foreign
military packs I like, but not many. For one thing, most I have tried are not very comfortable.
This is an excellent pack that is comfortable and will carry a huge load. The only thing it is
seriously missing is a sternum strap, which is easy to fabricate or buy at a backpacking store. This
pack sports a very interesting external – polycarbonate half frame that works very nicely. These
packs usually run from $129 – $159 in new condition. It’s probably the best foreign rucksack I
have ever used; a real winner. I have several brand new in the wrapper that I will sell for $135
each (sorry for the commercialism). In case you are wondering why I have so many of these
things it is because I wanted a sample to test and I refuse to pay retail so I bought several of them
and saved a bunch of money (?). Things to consider when buying a Survival Rucksack:Comfort
Load bearing capability (how much weight does it (you) have to carry)
Cost
Color
Ruggedness
Versatility
Before we go further, let’s discuss the Rule of 3 (or 4 depending on who’s talking)
You can live:
About three minutes without air
About three hours without shelter (in an extreme cold climate)
About three days without water
About three weeks without food
Allow me to digress a moment. I would also like to add security. Without security, you may live only about 3 seconds.
So, what are the priorities?
1. Security – first and foremost, always, immediately secure you area!
2. Air – probably not an issue here unless someone is choking you.
3. Shelter, probably not as critical an issue, unless it is snowing or worse yet, you are in a freezing rain
4. Water next to security will likely be your most urgent concern.
5. Food, although listed last, be sure you have plenty in your pack.
Remember, #1or #3 are no more important than #4 or #5. All are equally important; you can not live without each one of them. I have only prioritized them in the order death normally occurs without them.

(To be continued, tomorrow.) – FDG
e-mail: Freezedryguy@lanset.com, Copyright 2003.

Odds ‘n Sods:

MSNBC reports on “unschooling”, a variation on home schooling.

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Study finds that the climate in the Northeastern U.S. could be considerably warmer by 2100.

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Norman in England sent the link to this: Gangs of “yobs” make life miserable in disarmed English cities. A brave few stand up to them. Meanwhile, law enforcement is becoming a joke, with two out of every three ASBOs being breached. I wonder: What life will be like in English cities, post-TEOTWAWKI, when only the gangsters have guns? My advice to UK urbanites has not changed: Take the gap, ladies and gents! In my (admittedly biased) opinion, places like Yorkshire and the other rural counties aren’t far enough afield to avoid trouble. Not given the nation’s high population density. There are just too many people to spread into too small an area, after TSHTF. You might perhaps consider low population density parts of Scotland or Wales, if you have family there. But otherwise you will be consider an outsider, and you do not want to be seen as the expendable new neighbor. There is already considerable antipathy directed at English land buyers in Scotland and Wales, and this will likely only get worse in the event of TEOTWAWKI. (Turbulent times tend to amplify the “we/they paradigm.”)

 

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclination, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence." – John Adams

Letter Re: Mossberg Mariner Pistol Grip Shotguns and Underground Cashing

Jim,
Just curious – would the Mossberg Mariner [one variant of which is now sold in the special waterproof canister packaging] make a decent tube that I can bury on land? Thanks, – Redclay

JWR Replies: Yes, they will work for underground caching since the canisters have an o-ring seal. They should seal well, but it is advisable to add another layer of protection. If nothing else, add a couple of layers of trash bags alternating with cardboard boxes then another trash bag. That way when you dig up the canister, it will have a little protection–and advance warning–when you shovel tip is getting close. Also, you will pull out a canister that isn’t slimy with mud from stem to stern. (“Been there, done that.”) If you live in an area that doesn’t have rocky soil, you can use a post hole digger to plant your canisters vertically. This makes them harder to spot with a metal detector. But if you do, dig an oversize hole and surround the wrapped canister with sand to make extraction easier. Parenthetically, make sure that you take GPS coordinates for your caching site, and record measured distances from several large landmarks. Trees can be removed, fence lines moved, and so forth. You do not want to spend a lot of time digging, especially post-TEOTWAWKI.

OBTW, I’m not a big fan of pistol grip type shotguns. They are painful to shoot, and not very accurate without a lot of practice. If you desire compactness, I recommend folding stock shotguns, most of which can be fired from the “stock folded” position in an emergency.

Letter Re: FAL/L1A1 Thumbhole Stock Conversion and Vendor Feedback

Hello Mr Rawles,
I wanted to drop you a line and let you know that I recently did some business with the Gun Parts Guy, whom I discovered on your site. The experience was a pleasure. I’m very new to the survival mentality, and even newer to the wonderful world of battle rifles. I read your book, loaned to me by a friend that I’ve had since high school (in the eighties, I’m 36), and it got me, well, motivated.

The friend in question, I’m happy to say, has undergone a far more important conversion experience to Christ, and recently his wife told mine that it all started from a conversation I had with him a couple of years ago. When I started looking for a handgun a few months back, he let me know he was “in the know,” and once I made my selection we went to the range together. After a few trips he loaned me your book, which he attributes to his own move toward survival preparedness.

Now the two of us are talking about securing some land in east Texas for a retreat. The bond of faith, friendship, and love of shooting make our families a good match (although I haven’t been able to talk him into homeschooling his kids yet- but I’m not giving up).

I too attend a Reformed Baptist church, and share the same theological perspective as yourself, so it’s been a refreshing trip to your site every morning.

Since I’ve strayed from the subject line of this email I’ll finish back on track. I went to a gun show a month ago and bought the only .308 I found- a Century Arms L1A1 with the thumbhole stock ($600). I wanted to replace the stock and went to a place here in Houston where I was told that it couldn’t be done. A comparison was made with an AK that apparently won’t work if the stock is removed/replaced.

I was bummed- I can’t even flip the safety with my right hand if I’m in shooting position. Then I called the GPG, and he told me it could be done, that I could do it myself (I’m a little nervous about this part, but I’ve got a friend at church that can help), and that he could get me everything I needed to get it done. He even explained the laws to me about making the conversion legal. The guys in the Houston store told me the ban was lifted and I could do whatever I want now (although they couldn’t help me). The laws are still ambiguous to me, but I want to stay legal for obvious reasons (like driving to the range).

Anyway, I know you get a lot of email, but I wanted to make contact and let you know that there is a pocket of Texas boys that really appreciate your efforts.

God Bless, – G.G.

Letter Re: Advice on Swedish Military Surplus Fallout Survey Meters

Hi Jim –
You probably get an e-mail like this 10 times a day, but since reading that the Radetect and Nuk-Alert are worthless, I’m shopping for something to supplement the CD V-700 [Geiger counter] that I have. From what I’ve read the CD V-700 is good for checking if people or objects have become low-level contaminated, a different meter is needed for alerting and monitoring high-level exposure risks. Sportsman’s Guide currently lists three different meters, including a Swedish one that looks interesting. Do you have any intel on these? Thanks For Your Time – Steve M.

JWR Replies: To start, I wouldn’t categorize a Nuk-Alert as “worthless.” They do effectively fill a role in your NBC preparedness planning and that is for point source (radioactive contamination) warning. They work fine for that. But they certainly aren’t a substitute for an accurate dosimeter and ratemeter.

Now on to surplus NBC gear: If a meter hasn’t been properly calibrated with a known-emanation test source in the past 10 or so years, then it won’t give an accurate reading. Don’t bother buying junk. Buy a freshly re-calibrated CD survey meter from Ready Made Resources, or from ki4u.com. You are correct about the CD V-700 being inappropriate for survey use. (When you need to measure the rate of exposure.) The following is a quote from the Civil Defense Museum web site: “[The] CD-V700 radiation survey meter is a sensitive low-range instrument that can be used to measure gamma radiation and detect beta radiation. It is recommended for (1) monitoring of personnel, food and water when used in a shielded facility or an area of low radiation background, and (2) follow-up monitoring or areas for human habitation and food production.” What you need to gauge a safe time for shelter emergence is something like the CD V-717 model survey (rate) meter that is currently being auctioned to benefit SurvivalBlog. Regardless of what model you buy and where you buy it, make sure that it has been recently calibrated by someone that knows what they are doing and that has access to a proper test source!

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us with sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use." – Galileo Galilei

Notes From JWR:

Wow! More than 700,000 unique visits in just over a year, from all over the planet. Thanks for making SurvivalBlog such a huge success. Please keep spreading the word.

Please remember that SurvivalBlog is supported primarily by our advertisers. (See our right hand scrolling “ad bar.”) Take the time to visit each of the advertiser web sites and check out their products. If and when you do make a purchase, please patronize our paid advertisers first. (We also have a lot of affiliate advertisers, but those ads result in just a few sporadic and small “piece of the action” commissions.) And needless, to say, please mention SurvivalBlog when you contact any of our advertisers. Thanks.

Letter Re: Advice on a Combination Self Defense/Hunting Long Gun?

Mr. Rawles:
I’m a college student living in Western Washington. My budget is very tight. I am looking to purchase my first–perhaps only–long gun before the proverbial Schumer Hits The Fan. This one gun must be able to provide “sure stopping” self defense and be able to provide food. (Deer, rabbits, and maybe birds.) I presently only have about $300 to spend. What is your advice? – C.&W.

JWR Replies: For a tight budget “one gun” solution, given the short ranges that you’ll encounter in western Washington, nothing beats the versatility of a shotgun. If your budget is $300 and just one gun must provide both self defense and the ability to hunt, I would look for a used Remington Model 870 12 gauge shotgun with a 3″ chamber and screw-in choke tubes. Given the wet climate in your region, get one of the gray parkerized models (such as the inexpensive “Express” variant) for better weather protection. (Standard bluing tends to rust with daily use in wet weather. Even if you get the chance to clean and oil a gun daily, all it takes is one missed spot, and rust will start to form.)

You can always pick up a used short “riotgun” barrel at a later date for around $90. (BTW, there is also a Remington 870 Express Combo variant that comes from the factory with both bird gun and riotgun barrels.) Any extra barrels that you buy should also be both parkerized and threaded for screw-in choke tubes. Another reliable shotgun is the Mossberg 500 series. OBTW, if you were writing me from one of the Plains States, I’d recommend a .308 Winchester bolt action Scout rifle, which would be more apropos for open country.

Letter Re: 20 Pound Propane Tanks and Differing Valve Designs in the U.S.

Jim,
I have seen discarded 20 pound propane tanks discarded by the road for a couple years now. The trash guys don’t pick them up, either. (At least not in my area)
They are tossed out because they have the “old style” valve in them.
At Wallyworld [Wal-Mart], they were swapping the old tank for an up-dated one for a pretty reasonable price.
I discussed this with my local propane guy, and he said they are losing about $1.00 each doing what they are doing. Now I found out why. The local Indian reservation has gas stations, and one of them fills propane tanks, without the state taxes. They cannot fill those tanks that are coming from the big box store! Actually, it is Blue Rhino who is pulling this. I guess Wal-Mart lets them deal through them. They are putting a special valve on them now, that can only be filled by Blue Rhino. I am not sure, but I think they have a magnet deal they put on the filler neck to open the trick valve they put on, and then they can fill them. So, that is why I contacted my local propane guy. He can put a Overfill Protection Device (OPD) valve, which is the new type, for just under $15. Then I can get it filled at the reservation for $8. I think Blue Rhino gets $12 to swap tanks. So, then I have a 20 lb tank that is refillable anywhere they fill them, but if you forget and swap it to the Rhino place, you lose your ‘good’ tank, and then you are forced to deal with the Rhino, or switch the valve again. Then you just put it someplace where it is protected from the elements, and it will keep indefinitely.
I bought a kit to run my generator off the propane tanks from a place in West Virginia: http://www.propane-generators.com/ (Gee, made in the U.S.)
I haven’t installed it yet, but it looks simple enough. They have several types to choose from, and have kits for about any size/make engine. They also have a digital tachometer that is also an hour meter that is the cheapest I have seen, compared to other places. The propane is a lot safer to deal with, and stores so much better, I thought I would go this route. I have been waiting for a paycheck for a while, and it just came, so I am taking my garbage-picked tanks to the propane guy to switch the valves. He has some kind of a power wrench to change them. I guess they are REALLY tight! I think to buy a new tank outright, is almost $45, or thereabouts. – Sid, near Niagara Falls

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles. If you know yourself but not the enemy, for every victory gained you will also suffer a defeat. If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle." – Sun Tzu, (the 6th century B.C. Chinese general) in "The Art of War"