Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“To my mind it is wholly irresponsible to go into the world incapable of preventing violence, injury, crime, and death. How feeble is the mindset to accept defenselessness. How unnatural. How cheap. How cowardly. How pathetic.” – Ted Nugent

Note from JWR:

You may have noticed that we now have 27 advertisers. That is gratifying, but it isn’t quite enough to keep us afloat. To supplement the income from paid advertising, we have added a number of affiliate advertisers, way down at the bottom of our blog page. (If these aren’t visible to you, then click your browser’s Reload button.) Please shop with our our paid advertisers, first. (See the scrolling ads in the right hand bar.) But if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for, then you can use the links provided to shop with our affiliate advertisers. (SurvivalBlog will receive a small percentage of your purchase price–usually from 2% to 10%, depending on the vendor.) You may already do business with some of them, such as Lehman’s and Cheaper Than Dirt. But please be sure to use only our links each time that you place an order with an affiliate (rather than bookmarking the vendor’s web page), or we won’t get our little piece of the action.

Letter Re: Selecting the Right Size Home Backup Generator

Jim,

The folks out there have some good information re. electrical considerations, codes and such for installing a hookup for a generator for the home. However, unless I missed a post, no one has mentioned how big a generator one may need to power essentials to get by comfortably in a grid down situation for the short term, at least.
My family and I live in the eastern US and we are prone to power outages from hurricanes, ice storms and to a lesser extent tornados and heavy snowfall. Since moving to a rural area out near the end of our power line service we have had everything from one day to a week long stretch without power to our home.
I knew when we built our home that I wanted a transfer box wired in to our outside box for just such emergencies, but I didn’t know how big a generator I needed that would not break the bank, so to speak. If you have enough scratch for a 15KW to 25KW whole house standby generator, fine, but most of us will be getting along with smaller, more portable units to power the essentials. Also, there are pros and cons as to which generator to buy depending on the type of fuel(s) you wish to use that
are available. [JWR Adds: I generally prefer low RPM diesel generators, because of their far greater longevity and the superior storage life of diesel fuel. They can also run on home heating oil in a pinch.] Ours is a convention gasoline powered generator, though I gave consideration to a propane generator, since we have that fuel source handy as well. Others may wish to address the fuel issue. We got a reconditioned factory Coleman 5500 watt generator for a bargain price at one of the local discount retailers in the wake of one of the last big hurricanes, which was a bargain for the price and has not let us down yet. I found that my main concern was having enough wattage capacity in a generator to turn over the well pump so we can provide water for our livestock and family. The minimum required for our 300 ft. well was about 3500 watts initial surge to turn over the well pump which then falls back to just a thousand watts or so for continued use. Fans and lights, added one at a time as you turn them on with the generator running use very little wattage, so they can be added with little load on the generator during runs in the evening or morning, when folks are up and about. Large appliances, however (microwaves, ovens, toasters, etc.) take a lot of wattage that would best be served by a larger standby generator. I have heard that electronic appliances such as computers, charges, radios, televisions etc. might be damaged if run off generator current, but I am not sure of this – we just don’t use those items during an outage anyway.
To make a long story short, we settled on a 5000 watt generator that weighs about 225 lbs. We bought it with a wheel kit, cover, and custom 60 ft. 220 volt cord that can be directly linked to our outside power transfer box during an extended outage. This setup will give us water, enable us to flush and shower and run the fans and lights, which, combined with our gas heat and cooking, keeps us comfortable until the power returns. It is kept in our detached garage for safekeeping and for operation by the open garage door to vent the exhaust and keep the noise down. As they say, your mileage may vary, but I draw the line at about 5000 watts for home use in extended circumstances. I consider smaller more portable generators you can run out of the back of your pickup truck or other conveyance as convenient for remote work and for power tools, but not big enough for your home.
By the way – I have found that cranking the generator monthly to check it out and taking it in yearly for a check-up is advisable, so it will be ready when needed. STA-BIL [or similar] gas stabilizer in your generator gas tank can also help preclude gumming up the engine and leading to hard cranking, if it will start at all. Although I have a hand crank generator, I understand that electric start is preferred. Just my $.02 cents. Regards, – Redclay

Two Letters Re: Folding Fighting/Utility Knife Recommendations?

James:

Regarding the recent posts, I want to make a few posts about folding knives. First, while larger folders are definitely better for larger tasks and of course for self-defense, One needs to take time to learn what is legal to carry in their state. My state, for example, only allows a maximum blade length of 3.5 inches. I follow the law, but carry TWO such folders. It would be a massive hassle to get in trouble with an overly zealous police officer. Better to be sure, and know the law.

As for folders, I like several Spydercos, such as the Endura and Delica, the Para Military and the James Keating model. I have several CRKT [Columbia River Knife and Tool] models, as I am the CRKT Forum moderator at www.knifeforums.com The CRKT Hawk D.O.G. Lock is a sleeper in their line. I’ve carried one off and on for a few years, and you couldn’t kill it if you tried. I didn’t see it in Columbia River’s latest catalog, but there are a lot of them out there for sale in shops, on line, and on eBay. The CRKT Hammond Cruiser is also a very stout knife. I know of a soldier who has used his in Iraq to open cans, MREs and all kinds of things you shouldn’t be able to open with a folder.

As for folder fighting skills, I encourage everyone to buy the Gabe Suarez “Big Folders Fighting Skills” DVD. Gabe shows several drills to teach a student to draw and deploy large Cold Steel Voyager clip point folders. He favors the XL and X2 models, which are fine for woodsy camping carry, but not legal to carry here, because of their six inch blade length. However, his skills transfer to other similarly designed folders. I encourage anyone who carries a folder as a back up to buy this DVD and study it. – Lawrence in West Virginia

Sir,
I completely agree with both OSOM and yourself; a fixed blade is preferable for many reasons, but the convenience and legalities of a folder make it the one I carry everyday.
Emerson Knives has a middle ground I believe, a feature called the “wave” that catches on the edge of your pocket, causing the blade to come open as you draw it.
A gent who posts under the name “Goshin” on Alpharubicon suggetsed a way to add the same functionality to any tip up carried folder that utilizes a thumb hole. Using a Dremel tool or a hacksaw, you can remove enough steel from the thumbhole to allow a “catch” on your pocket and open as you draw. Another way (and superior, in my opinion) is to attach a cable or zip tie to the thumb hole and cut it short; this provides the same function without destructive modification.
(See: http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/speedkngoshin.htm )
I find it performs best to reverse the pocket clip so the knife comes up in a reverse grip. It is truly amazing how quickly a folder can be deployed this way [from a front pants pocket], perhaps even faster that a concealed fixed blade as there is no concealing garment to clear before drawing. As always, thank you for the resource your blog provides. Respectfully, – Pat R.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"I do not believe there ever was any life more attractive to a vigorous young fellow than life on a cattle ranch in those days. It was a fine, healthy life, too; it taught a man self-reliance, hardihood, and the value of instant decision…I enjoyed the life to the full." – Theodore Roosevelt

Letter Re: Vulnerability of Fish to Asian Avian Flu?

Regarding the question of fish and infection with H5N1 influenza virus: This is not the first time this question has come across my desk. While it is not wise to say “absolutely never” in biology, I find actual infection of fish with influenza viruses to be extremely unlikely. I’ve never encountered any study to show that fish (or insects, before someone asks) can be infected with or transmit influenza viruses. I am a public health M.D./epidemiologist, not a virologist, so I am prepared to be wrong. But I’d be surprised. The issue is not so much that certain animals are “cold blooded” — although that perhaps plays a role, since viruses have preferred temperatures for carrying out the molecular steps for infection — but rather involves the specific molecular biology of the influenza virus. In particular, there are specific proteins (hemagglutinin or “HA”) on the outside of each virus that determine what sorts of animal cells the virus can attach to and thereby infect. I don’t think any HA molecule subtypes will attach to the cell receptors found in fish or insects. Further, the various other components of the virus are also necessary for an infection cycle to be successful, and these components would probably not be expected to function properly in non-mammal, non-avian cells.
Having said all that, the issue of environmental “contamination” with this virus has indeed been raised with regard to fish farming. Influenza viruses in general are able to remain viable in the environment for extended periods, especially if cold and wet. There have been concerns raised (and refuted, but with little direct evidence one way or another) about chicken manure used as fish food in integrated operations in Asia. The real concern is that transport and spread of untreated manure from infected poultry could contribute to local spread of the virus, not so much that the farmed fish are directly infected. It’s worth reminding everyone that cooking easily kills influenza virus and other pathogens. If preparing raw meats, always practice safe kitchen procedures and avoid cross-contamination of cutting boards etc. Then WASH YOUR HANDS. I eat sushi, for what it’s worth. – A Public Health Physician

Letter Re: One Option for a Vehicular Bug-Out Bag

Jim:

I received the following recommendation from a buddy of mine in Houston:
“I bought one of these bags for the truck. It is well made and works as a “Oh Sh*t” bag. I put a Glock19 with 8 mags, 2 bottled waters, 2 flashlights, spare batteries, a folding knife, two 50 round boxes of spare ammo and still have room for whatever I come up with. It has a shoulder strap and when adjusted properly, hangs well to
the weak-side of body. The pockets are of various sizes and hold well. I take it out of the truck at night and place back [there] in the morning. Highly recommend. Hope that I never need it.” – K.T.

Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog reader S.C. saw the recent item about 20 liter gas cans and mentioned that there is a great price (just $10 each) on military surplus gas cans at SwissArmyVehicles.com. (See their “Surplus” page.) When you consider that the shipping cost to most locations will exceed the cost of the can itself, you can see that they are a very good deal.

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Magma on the Move at Mount St. Helens

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First Silver Exchange Traded Fund Beats Expectations

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Persian Gulf Officials Discuss Nuclear Emergency Plan

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The high bid is currently $110 in the SurvivalBlog Bandwidth Fund benefit Book Auction. Please e-mail your bids before May 30th. Thanks to Kurt and Angie Wilson of Survival Enterprises for sponsoring this fund raiser!

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Our top focus – protecting our Nation – must go beyond homeland preparedness; America will only be secure if we deal with threats before they happen, not just after they happen." – Senator Dr. Bill Frist

Letter Re: Advice of Shotgun Shells and Shot Sizes

Jim,
I’m a strong fan of shotguns. Until recently, I was quite happy with whatever load was around the house stacked in the [shotgun magazine] tube for home defense. However, last year I was referred to The Box of Truth web site.The scary part is the comments on bird shot at the bottom:
“I saw a gunshot victim, about 5′ 10” and 200 lbs, taken to the operating room with a shotgun wound to the chest. He was shot at a range of six feet at a distance of just over the pectoralis muscle. He was sitting on his front porch and walked to the ambulance. We explored the chest after x-rays were taken. The ER doc had said ‘buckshot’ wound, but this was obviously not accurate. It was # 6 [bird] shot. There was a crater in the skin over an inch in diameter. When the shot hit the level of the ribs, it spread out about five inches. There was ONE pellet that had passed between the ribs and entered the pericardium, but not damaged the heart at all…”
There are other comments on the page, and several comparisons of shotguns to other weapons. Quoting an acquaintance of mine, “A 12 gauge pump is basically a Swiss Army Gun.”
I keep both slugs (for the truly appalling ballistic energy–3500 to 5000 foot-pounds) and 00 buck on the gun and in it. The arms locker has #7 and #4 [bird] shot for survival hunting, with additional buckshot. Deer can be more easily taken with a rifle, and if SHTF that’s what I’ll use. – Michael Z. Williamson

Three Letters Re: Request for Advice on Backup Power for a Well Pump

Jim,
In regard to the gentlemen asking about his well pump: There is a product called Generlink that is a lot easier to install than a transfer switch. Most well pumps are 220 volt but there are always exceptions. The web site for the item is www.generlink.com and I have heard some electrical coops will install them for free. – Gene in Walla Walla

James:
A single-load transfer switch can be added to the well-pump line. Cost is about $100 from Northern Tools. Depending upon your local regulations, this may require the services of a licensed electrician. And if your well pump is 220 volts, you will need one of the more expensive generators – the small, cheap ones don’t put out
220 volts.
If you’re going to all that expense, it’s probably foolish to limit yourself to powering only the well pump. Might just as well choose a loadside transfer switch ($250 – $500) which will allow you to power the freezer, lights, etc. If you know what you are doing (and local regulations allow) you can install one of these yourself.
If your well is not very deep, you might look into a 12-volt pump with a deep-cycle battery and solar charger.
That’s what I have here – but it only has to lift water about 2 feet. A pump such as the Shurflo used in campers and motor homes would work (< $100) – Irv

 

Hi,
I saw the letter today asking about back-up power for a well pump. I had the very same issue myself. We are the very last house on the power line and thus our power goes out more than most. I did the illegal/dangerous “run things off a generator with a male to male plug” for a while, but could not power my well pump this way as it is 220 Volt. So, realizing that it is dangerous and illegal to continue with my then current methods, I resolved to install a transfer switch. I am no electrical genius but it really wasn’t all that difficult – just time consuming. It all worked out fine and I think (I didn’t really keep track) that I spent something between $500 and $600 on the entire set-up. The transfer switch alone was about $200, the new box another $100, as I recall, so the parts are not cheap. However, if you do this right you are practically set up for a battery back-up or other alternate power source as well.

Before I did anything, I contacted the local code enforcement officer and asked for his advice. He was really quite helpful. I also went to a local electrical supply house – not a big box store – as these guys know a lot more about the codes, requirements, etc than they do at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. In any case, I have attached a photo of my project when it was almost done. As I said, it cost a fair amount of money and took me about a month to do off and on (I do have to work you know!), but it was a LOT less than having someone else do it.

I ran a line to my garage for the generator (must be three wires and a ground for code) and ran that into the transfer switch which I mounted next to my main box. Then I installed another smaller electrical box to the other side of that. I ran 60 amp service from the transfer switch to the new box and wired up as much as I could without disrupting the house circuits. Then all in one Saturday morning I ran the wires from the old box to the new for the circuits I wanted to power from my generator – refrigerator, freezer, well pump, kitchen, office and family room – and installed a 60 amp breaker and wired it all up to code as described by the inspector and the guys at the shop. I had no problem with the inspection because I talked with them FIRST and called and asked questions occasionally when something was unclear. However, now when I run my generator I do not have to worry about frying some lineman or one of my children if they go look at the funny male plug that fell out of the wall . . .

Also, it is easy to tell if your well pump is 110 or 220. Just look in your electrical box. If it runs with a circuit breaker it will be a two-pole switch (the kind with a bar across to throw 2 switches at once), not a single pole like the rest of the stuff in your box. The only other two-pole switches you might have would be for an electric dryer, electric stove, electric heat or other special 220 VAC items.In any case, the box should be labeled. Best Regards, – Tim P.

P.S.: I too have done business with The Pre-1899 Specialist and have received excellent information and a couple of fine rifles as a result.

Letter Re: The First Survivors–Concerning Spiritual Preparedness

Jim:

In previous pieces I have written for SurvivalBlog, I have told of ways to prepare Field Kits, and of Shooting Skills, and other preparedness information. In today’s article I will write a little about spiritual preparedness:

The first acting “survivalist” was probably Noah and his family. (Note: I do not take credit for being the first person to come up with this idea). Under God’s direction he built a “Bug out Vehicle” of sorts (Genesis 6:14-16). God gave them a way of escape, and direction to store the things they would need for the coming threat ahead as well as the future of the earth. They gathered and stored food stuffs, grains, water, tools, and raw materials (Genesis 6:21).

They gathered the various types of animals on the earth at that time, and of the animals God gave man for food – He had them gather seven pairs (male and female) instead of just one pair (Genesis 7:2-3). God was their protector through the devastation of the earth, but they had done their part by preparing what would be needed in their future.

Another type of survivor (in a spiritual sense) comes to mind. When Jesus Christ hung on the cross some 2000 years ago, there were two thieves who hung on crosses near Him. One believed that Jesus was the Christ, but the other did not. The one who believed was told by Jesus that “today shalt thou be with me in Paradise” (KJV, Luke 23:40-43). This second thief realized that Jesus was the Son of God. He feared God, and believed that Jesus was His Son. He professed this with his mouth, and being his last day on earth – he repented. Romans 10:9-10 (KJV) reads: “9) That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. 10) For with the heart man believeth unto righteousness; and the mouth confession is made unto salvation.”

The thief had no time left on earth to “earn” his salvation, but the Bible says that if we believe and we repent – we can be saved. Our best “works” are not able to save us! (see Isaiah 64:6). Fortunately, God loved us enough to send His Son Jesus to die for our sins, taking our place on that cross! (John 3:16)

The believing thief was a “spiritual survivor”. The Bible says he will live eternally. You the reader have probably made plans and preparations for surviving the hard times ahead, but will you be an “eternal survivor” as well? – Christian Souljer

Odds ‘n Sods:

The ‘Worst case’ bird flu pandemic may have been underestimated. And it is now known that H5N1 can attack other organs — not just the human respiratory tract.

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Yevgeny Primakov’s view of the Iranian situation.

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SurvivalBlog reader RBS mentioned this article about the prospect of an inflation-proof “forever” postage stamp. If these ever get issued, then I’m stocking up!

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By way of Gold-Eagle, Jason Hommel comments on both the rapid expansion of the silver ETF and the threat of Bolivian silver mine expropriation