Note from JWR:

Today we welcome our newest advertiser: Inirgee, a low voltage lighting mail order firm in Goodlettsville, Tennessee. You may wonder what 12 VDC Christmas lights have to do with survival. But think this through: Using part or all of a string of LED lights is ideal for survival lighting with a minimal power source. Just one small photovoltaic panel and a pair of 6 VDC golf cart (deep cycle) batteries can provide you with lighting, communications gear, a police scanner, and a small battery charging tray. This sort of setup is ideal for either someone that is on a tight budget, or someone that needs a mobile system that they can quickly disassemble and carry in the trunk of a car. A small photovoltaic (PV) power and lighting system is better than no system. Lets face it: For many of us, a small system is all that we can afford. Even without a PV panel, you can just a use a car battery to provide shelter lighting for short term grid-down situations. Regardless of the scale of system that you choose, concentrate first on components that have minimal current loads. Also consider this: If you buy a LED disaster lighting system that can be switched between strings of red and white LEDs, by switching to the red LEDs you can preserve your night vision before emerging from your shelter for tactical situations. Think of the possibilities. OBTW, be sure to use the coupon code survival to get the special SurvivalBlog readers’ 10% discount on all regularly priced merchandise in the Inirgee online store. (They have more than 400 different items.)



Letter Re: Advice on Ammunition and Precious Metals for Barter?

Mr. Rawles,
I recently read your post about your attending a coin show in California. What are your recommendations for getting started in collecting a few gold coins in case the monetary system collapses (I don’t have the foggiest idea how to begin)? How much should I purchase, what types, and in what quantities? I assume that having a couple extra cases of shotgun shells and a few boxes of .22 [rimfire] rounds will also go a long way in a barter environment (not to mention a water filter or two.) Any advice or direction that you can share would be greatly appreciated! – Sean

JWR Replies: As mentioned in my novel “Patriots”, I think that common caliber ammunition is preferable to precious metals for barter. In the U.S., I recommend stocking up on extra .308, .223, 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 12 gauge (2-3/4″ only), and .22 Long Rifle rimfire. You might also lay in a smaller supply of the two or three most popular big game hunting calibers in your region. (They do vary quite a bit. Ask at your local sporting goods store which are the most popular. Where I live, it is.30-06. But in other parts of the country it might be .30-30 or .243 Winchester. I’ve read that in Canada, New Zealand, and Australia, the venerable .303 British cartridge is still quite popular )

If you decide that you want to supplement your supply of “ballistic wampum” barterables, then I recommend buying silver rather than gold coins.Gold is just too compact a store of wealth for most barter transactions. If and when you want to buy (via barter) a gallon of kerosene, a box of ammunition, or a can of beans, then gold is inappropriate. How would someone make “change” for a transaction that is priced at 1/100th of the value of a one ounce American Eagle or one ounce Krugerrand gold coin? With a cold chisel? But pre-1965 (90% silver) dimes should work just fine. These are nice small, readily recognizable silver coins for barter. Parenthetically, as I have mentioned in the SurvivalBlog Investing sub-page, I recommend that you get your key logistics (“beans, bullets, and band-aids”) squared away before you consider investing anything extra in precious metals–either for barter or as a long term inflation hedge.



The Ultralight Bug-Out Bag, by Hawaiian K.

Editor’s Note: The following article presents a distinctly different approach to packs than that recently recommended by FDG in his two part article. While FDG recommended a lightweight approach, “Hawaiian K.” recommends and “ultralight” approach. Both approaches have their merits. What you select may depend on the severity /duration of your anticipated scenario(s) as well as the distance to your intended retreat or back-up retreat. Another variable is your fitness/health in general, and the condition of your back in particular. As they say in the car commercials: “Your mileage my vary.” (YMMV.)

One of the most common topics of conversation when survivalists get together is each individual’s take on the BOB (bug-out bag). We all have our own approach but some of us haven’t thought it completely through. I have a friend, for instance, who’d had the contents of his BOB gathering in his front closet for years. When I dared him to actually put it all together and weigh it, it topped out at a back-breaking 92 pounds! Needless to say, he was stunned and determined to trim it down to the bare bones. When he weighed it again, it was 64 pounds, which he felt was “doable”. I challenged him and a couple of pals to a weekend hike, each of us carrying the full contents of our BOBs.
I’ve had a serious back problem for many years and was overjoyed when I started reading about “ultralight” hiking. Everything you carry is weighed and the goal is keep your entire pack under 20 pounds. There are numerous advantages to doing so, for example, at the end of the day you’re not exhausted from carrying 60+ pounds! Heavy packs also throw off your center of balance, particularly when you’re trying to make it up a steep incline. A couple of the guys in our party ended up taking falls because of this, one of them resulting in a nasty wrist compression (it might’ve been a good deal worse). You also can’t travel as quickly when you’re dragging that anchor around. When we made camp that night I ended up eating alone as the dead-tired “freight-haulers” were out cold and snoring before they could get a fire going.
The average pair of “waffle stomper” style boots weigh in at about four pounds, while the ankle-high running shoes that I wear are less than 2 pounds. For every mile you walk in heavy boots, you’re lifting about a ton of weight (literally, 2000 pounds) more than you’d be hoisting in lighter shoes, and it all adds up! A heavy-duty combat style backpack can weigh 7 pounds empty, while the pack I carry is less than a pound. By the way, if you want to travel light, you’ll need to become familiar with a fabric called “silnylon” which is nylon treated with silicon (waterproof and featherweight). It’s a miracle to camp with but be *very* careful with flame (don’t get it near the stuff). Rather than travel with a 10 pound tent in your pack, try a silnylon tarp/poncho overhead and a bivy sack (which is a waterproof cover for your sleeping bag) which, combined, weigh well less than a pound. Some budget ultralight hikers use a 6’x8′ sheet of Tyvek as a ground cloth or tarp (weighs next to nothing). You get the idea?
Rather than invest in a Camelback-type rig for carrying water, I carry 2 liter soda bottles (which are free, weigh nothing and don’t develop that “funky” taste that the bladders get after a while). We weighed the canteen that one of the guys was carrying and it was a couple of pounds, empty! In lieu of a stove, the same guy carried a 4 pound ax (to gather “firewood”), while I carried a “Coke can” stove ( http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html ) that, along with it’s fuel (denatured alcohol) weighs less than 3 ounces! The poor guy was hungry (no dinner the night before) and it took him almost an hour to gather his wood, split it and get a good fire going before he could start breakfast. I think it goes without saying that if we’d been “bugging out”, the time taken and the tell-tale smoke from the fire would’ve been unacceptable. That’s another aspect of ultralight hiking that works for survivalists, “leave no trace of your visit” to give away your position or make it easy to be tracked.
We felt it prudent to leave our rifles at home and stick with concealed carry (people get spooked seeing armed men marching in the woods out of hunting season). Keeping with the light BOB idea, I had my Glock 30 along with 2-10 round magazines (the idea is to make every shot count, if need be, and to travel so quietly as to be unseen and untargeted) and my favorite knife for this kind of hike, a CRKT M16- which is a skeletonized folder that thinks it’s a fixed blade knife (even has a true hilt) and weighs in at 5.6 ounces. True to the intent of this trip, I also wore my IIA [body armor] vest, being sure to wear a synthetic material tee-shirt under it. When you hike for any distance, the last material you’ll want against your skin is cotton, which will absorb sweat and make you miserable no matter if the weather is hot or cold. Though the hike was in the Summer in Vermont, we were all carrying everything we’d need, even in the dead of Winter. Clothing-wise, I carry synthetic underwear- long and short, Merino wool shirt and pants (which are convertible to shorts), a synthetic fleece jacket, a light insulated parka, and breathable rain gear. I also carry waterproof gaiters, vapor barrier socks, several pairs of technical, Merino wool socks, one pair saved for use only when sleeping (and therefore, always dry, a real treat after a day of hiking) and two pairs of gloves (one fits over the other) It pays to have either a synthetic balaclava or a “Buff” (a multipurpose head/neck wrap) along and I always carry my Tilley’s hat for shade, the only cotton piece in my kit. For light, I stick to tiny LEDs as a normal flashlight with 2 D cells weighs in at half a pound. I also try to utilize dried and freeze dried foods as much as possible to lighten the load.
The trick is to constantly look for places where you can cut weight. For example, most people don’t really need a full length pad to sleep on, so you trim the pad to 3/4 and you save a few ounces. You wear light layers rather than carry an entire wardrobe for each season. There are people who even go so far as to cut off any labels or trim that they deem unnecessary, trying to pare down another ounce. You also want to try to carry things that are “multi-purposed” so that you carry fewer items. Some things, like a one ounce mosquito head net, are worth their weight in gold and you’d be foolish to travel the back country without them. By the end of the second day of this trip, these ideas were starting to make sense to my fellow hikers. The ax carrier was starting to understand that twigs made more sense than logs for the fires he was making and all of them were cursing the weight (and unneeded items) they were carrying. They were converts by the time we got home again and each of them has completely reworked their BOB, thanks to the on the ground lessons we all learned. Even if the idea of an ultralight BOB doesn’t appeal to you, you owe it to yourself (and those who depend on you) to give your own BOB a “real world” trial, to see if it lives up to your needs and is actually as “haul-able” as you think it is.- Hawaiian K.



Letter Re: Prospects for the UK after TEOTWAWKI

Jim,
“PJ”s letter concerning rising crime in the UK seems to pin it directly on the poor, the Traveller Community and immigrants. The “Traveller Community” for example, isn’t just made up of “gypsies”, many white, middle class kids are joining it because they regard life in the UK as becoming increasingly twisted due to misplaced priorities (which is hard to argue with). By the way, I just read today that ethnic “gypsies” have asked for recognition of their own holocaust during WWII, something that is conveniently forgotten by people like PJ who need to have a foreign scapegoat to blame the ills of society on.
I also find it interesting that he speaks of “under resourced Police forces” when the U.K. has become the literal manifestation of “Big Brother”, with surveillance cameras everywhere continually peering at it’s disarmed people. I don’t know about you but I don’t want our government to use questionable statistics of rising crime to eliminate our rights to privacy. [Rant snipped.] Be very careful about these scapegoating letters as they’re invariably racist, between the lines or not. Roman immigrants to Israel were responsible for the death of Jesus, yet nowhere in his message is “blame it on the foreigners”…..unless I’ve badly misread the New Testament. Best Regards, – A Reader

JWR Replies: I don’t want this to degenerate into ranting and flame wars, but this issue needs to be addressed, and I intend to do so, with just this one reply. I suppose that if either of us lived in England, we might have a different opinion about crime. Here is a snippet on comparative crime statistics that I just found on the web: “According to Interpol, the number of crimes per 100,000 residents for the UK in 1997 was 8,576.46, for the USA that year it was 4,922.74. For 1998 in the UK it was 9,823.28. Interpol does not have USA data for that year, nor does it have 2000 data for the UK. In 2000, however, the USA saw 4,123 crimes per 100,000 residents. In other words: UK crime rate is twice as high as USA’s and rising. USA crime rate is half the UK’s and falling.” So I can see why the average Englishman might be more fearful of crime than we are. (Although, ironically, the risk of getting murdered here in the US is higher than it is there. But England clearly has higher rates for nearly all other crimes–both violent and non-violent.)

Upon re-reading PJ’s letter, I can see that there are elements of it that could be construed as racist. I’ll withhold any judgment on PJ, but there are indeed some racist tendencies in England, just as there are here in the US. Back in the 1950s England had a low crime rate. But these days it has an unacceptably and uncomfortably high crime rate. But it is criminal individuals, not racial, ethnic, or religious groups that are to blame. We don’t paint with that sort of broad brush on SurvivalBlog.



Odds ‘n Sods:

A nightmare for the intel analysts in Z Division: A defiant North Korea conducts a nuclear bomb test

  o o o

North Korea’s bomb ‘would kill 200,000’

  o o o

The folks at The Pre-1899 Specialist told us that their recently acquired batch of 8 x 57 pre-1899 Turkish contract Oberndorf Mauser rifles is going fast. This is by far the nicest batch of Turks that they’ve ever had. Since they were all made between 1894 and 1896, they are Federally exempt “antiques” –which means no paperwork required for delivery to most of the 50 States. (They come right to your doorstep, with no pesky 4473 form required!)





Letter Re: Prospects for the UK after TEOTWAWKI

Jim
The Times Online article that you cited regarding the Woman victimised by yobs highlights a very real danger that will present itself when the normal order of things breaks down. The UK has a massive underclass of welfare dependant, socially excluded individuals who live in inner city areas. It is by no means a problem exclusive to the inner Cities. There are council sink estates in most parts of the UK. Many of these individuals are the result of multi generation benefit dependency. They are often poorly educated and lacking any real prospect of meaningful employment. In addition there is a growing Gang culture that is not restricted to ethnic minority groups. The use of firearms and violence by these gangs is becoming commonplace.

Another group that is likely to become a problem in the event of social breakdown is the Traveller Community. [Also called gypsies, in the U.S.] These groups of itinerants travel in Caravan convoys throughout the UK. They generally camp on waste ground close to commercial estates where they can steal with impunity. Protected by human rights laws, there is little that the Police can do about them. They also have a reputation for extreme violence.

The UK’s growing problem with illegal immigration is another area of concern. Police forces throughout the UK are reporting a steady rise in crime, particularly sexual assaults on women.

Our under resourced Police forces are already struggling to deal with this state of lawlessness. In the event of a major socioeconomic collapse they will be completely overwhelmed in a matter of days.

The vast majority of people in the UK are unarmed and will have no means of defending themselves or their families. In addition many people are terrified of using violence in self defence because of the legal ramifications. We can only hope that the current state of relative stability remains in place for as long as possible. – PJ



Letter Re: Long Term Underground Storage of Guns

What do you consider “long-term? If it’s anything over a year and you expect to store the guns in a damp climate, you will have to protect them from more than just ordinary conditions. Way back in 1999, when everybody was worrying about Y2K I conducted an experiment in gun storage.

First, I bought a four-foot long piece of 6” dia. ABS pipe. I know, most people think PVC is best, but I’ve seen too many pieces of PVC that have cracked when hit or bent over a piece of rock. ABS is much more flexible and resistant to such problems. I also bought two caps for the pipe. I didn’t buy a screw-on type cap since I was experimenting with truly long-term storage. A screw-on cap would be fine if you were planning to take the gun out and use it occasionally but counterproductive if otherwise.
Next, I bought some oxygen absorbing packets. These are pretty common in some areas of food preservation like bags of beef jerky and can be bought from a variety of sources in a variety of sizes. I cleaned and oiled the gun just as if I were putting it in the safe until next week. I then determined just how much oxygen I was going to have to absorb. The inside diameter of the pipe divided by two and squared, then multiplied by pi and the length gave me the volume of air. Since normal air is comprised of only about 16% oxygen: (6”/2)2 x 3.14 X 48” x 0.16 = 12.2 cubic inches O2

This is no time to be nit-picky, toss in a little extra O2 absorbent, just don’t let the packets come in contact with the steel of your gun. Some plastic film cans with holes cut in them work well here. Glue the caps on both ends of the pipe and bury it or whatever tilts your windmill. Within a couple of days nearly all the available oxygen is trapped in those packets and no longer available to form rust on your precious gun. I left mine, a Chinese SKS and some ammo, in the tube for a full year in a wet climate before I checked it. I had marked the outside of the tube so I’d know where to cut without harming the gun. When I started sawing I was a bit apprehensive. The SKS was a cheap gun but I still wasn’t interested in trashing it or finding it covered in rust. But when I broke through the inner wall of the pipe I was rewarded with a “hiss” as air was sucked into the pipe and when I finally took the gun out it had no rust anywhere and was perfectly serviceable, which fact was proven by firing off a clip of the ammo I had stored with it.
Now, I realize my experiment only lasted a year and I’m extrapolating that it will work for longer periods of time. But since rust is oxidized iron and the oxygen is removed from the enclosed atmosphere and since I found no rust anywhere on the gun, I believe it is a safe assumption to make. – D.Y.





The Memsahib’s Quote of the Day:

“It is one of the great ironies of our modern “civilized” era that in most of the places where you don’t feel the need to carry a firearm for self defense you can legally do so if you choose. But in most of places where you do indeed justifiably feel the immediate need to carry a gun, they are banned.” – James Wesley, Rawles



Letter Re: Apex, N.C. Chemical Plant Fire as a Case Study in G.O.O.D. Realities

Jim,
My wife and I woke up at 5 a.m. (Eastern time) to NPR (you have to know what the enemy is up to) with the lead story a hazmat fire at a haz waste recycling company in Apex, NC, several miles to the east near Raleigh, NC. Something over 16,000 residents of Apex have been urged to evacuate so far as a large plume of a chlorine-like smelling substance moves through the area.
All local, state and federal agencies have been called in to assess and 300 firefighters so are are waiting until daylight (7am-ish) to go in assess and then fight the fire or at least the contain the contamination. Authorities have decided to let the fire burn itself out for now until morning since it was first reported 10pm (Eastern time) last night. Several police and one firefighter are being treated for inhalation problems Currently there is an adjacent petroleum co. next door where four tanks have also caught fire and exploded, exacerbating the situation…all schools in the apex area have been closed for the day.
If you follow local links (wral.com) and (newsobserver.com) you may get some updates on how this thing develops and is resolved…the large plume of whatever it is may shift soon due to a cold front coming through and more evacuations may result…the anticipated rains and storms with the front may be a mixed blessing….the morning commute from the SW of Raleigh should be a nightmare as the downtown Apex area is locked down….some will stay in their homes, i am advised but many left late last night….the haz waste handling facility handles discarded pesticides, paints, etc….and the heavy growth in the metropolitan area around raleigh, nc has led to many homes/some subdivisions being built near the complex (EQ recycling)……
My purpose is to notify you of a real-time scene here in NC that might be monitored for lessons learned about choosing wisely where to live, knowing your roads and how folks got by either staying shut in or leaving in a hurry….we are told that apex residents were called by phone late thursday evening by using a ‘reverse 911’ calling system that phones each home with the alert to evacuate. Was this a terrorist action? Probably not, but a wake up, nonetheless. Regards, – Redclay



Baking Whole Wheat Bread With Your Storage Wheat, by B.B.

You should plan to be dependent on stored food until your second crop comes in. Wheat is the least expensive and longest-lasting and most nutritious of the basic foods and should be the backbone of your stored foods. Figure on a pound per person per day, thus about 700 pounds per adult-size person over the two-year storage plan. This is about a loaf of bread per day, which will nicely supplement the other stored foods in your larder.
You want “thrice-cleaned, Turkey-red Hard Winter Wheat”, with moisture content at less than 10%. Store it in food-grade plastic buckets; treat it with dry ice as explained elsewhere in SurvivalBlog.
The simplest and most familiar way to eat wheat is by making bread. What follows is not a “survival” version of how to make bread, but unless you get your family used to eating whole wheat bread—and with this recipe, they will!—the wheat which ought to be the backbone of your food storage will not be much appreciated.
In a survival situation, you can prepare the bread dough described below, then eliminate the baking process in steps 5-7 by going right to the “Navajo bread” explanation at the end. And you won’t need bread pans either. Also, check abebooks.com for copies of Dian Thomas “Roughing It Easy” for ideas on survival cooking.
Homemade whole-wheat bread is often hard and chewy—sometimes better as a doorstop than as something to eat! Store-bought whole-wheat bread has a much better texture because commercial bakers use a secret ingredient. You can use the same ingredient and make bread that that will be far superior to store-bought and that your family will rave about. And you can make it from scratch to cooling rack in about 60 minutes! Trust me on this. Take note of the time for each step below and you will see what I mean.
Over the last several years, I have baked numberless loaves (100+) using this recipe. I often give one loaf of every 4-loaf batch away because I like the reactions I get. Early in my bread-baking career, one recipient told me she ate half a loaf at one sitting! I was pleased, but not surprised. My kids have done the same. Also try the variations you’ll read later in this paper; you’ll find people standing at your side waiting impatiently for the next bite.

Basic Whole-Wheat Bread (makes 4 loaves)
Of course it’s best to use freshly ground whole wheat, but you can start out your adventure in bread-making with whole wheat flour bought at the store. Yeast from Costco comes in good-size “bricks”—see the “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course for details.
4 1?2 cups very warm water
1 cup honey
1?4 cup yeast
1?2 cup oil (Canola is best)
6 cups whole wheat flour (more flour will be added later; see below)
Slightly mounded 3/4 cup of gluten flour (the “secret ingredient”: available in the baking/nutrition/organic section of larger groceries or from a nutrition store). Warning: you want gluten flour, not “high protein” flour
1 1?2 teaspoons salt
4 to 5 1?2 cups whole wheat flour (store-bought whole wheat flour may take less because it will be more “packed”—fresh made flour is more “fluffy”
4 greased or oiled bread pans. I use my fingers to spread the grease, or a paper towel to spread the oil, into every corner. Do this well to unsure the loaves will release from the pans. I’ve also used “Pam” with good results.
1. Combine the water, honey and yeast; let this mixture “work” at least 5 minutes. I have a kneading machine, so I use its bowl for this. No kneading machine? Use a large mixing bowl.
2. Then add the oil, the 6 cups of whole wheat flour, the gluten flour and the salt. Beat in your kneading machine (or electric mixer, or by sturdy wooden spoon) for 7 minutes. This will result in a pancake-like batter.
3. Continue to beat, adding 4 1?2 cups of the 5 1?2 cups of flour; checking for stickiness and adding only enough to cause the dough to clear the bowl—meaning the dough will pick up dough off the sides of the bowl (the batch will feel slightly sticky when touched).
4. Either knead with your machine or turn out onto an oiled board or counter (a tablespoon of oil spread around with your hand. Machine-knead or hand-knead for at least 10 minutes. I rub my hands with oil to keep the dough from sticking too much. For hand kneading, you can also add a little flour (just a little—you don’t want tough bread!–if needed to prevent too much stickiness. At the end of ten minutes, the batch should be elastic—you’ll know what that means after your first bread-making experience. It will feel “alive”.
At this point, you can continue with steps 5-7 or go right to the “Navajo bread” section below.
5. Mold* into four loaves and put in the four pans. Let rise in the oven with the oven temperature at 100o (just warm), for 15 to 20 minutes (but no longer or else you’ll get air pockets in the bread).
6. Turn the oven up to 350o and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. There’s no need to remove the pans and wait for the oven to reach 350—just turn the knob to 350. To test for doneness, turn out one loaf and tap on the bottom: a hollow sound tells you it’s done. To turn out a loaf, use oven mittens to hold the pan inverted and to catch the loaf. If the loaf bottom is still a bit “squishy”, return it to the pan and continue baking. Keep the oven door closed during this test or you’ll lose too much heat. Don’t over bake; the loaves will be browner than they look in the dark oven.
7. Turn out on wire racks to cool; rub a stick of margarine or butter over the tops to keep the crust from getting too hard.
* to mold: shape the batch into a round ball and cut into quarters with a long knife. Shape each of these into a ball. Then with the heel of your hands press on the sides of a ball to shape it into length to fit your bread pans. Press into the pan and then press it down so it fills the pan end-to-end and side-to-side. There’s no need to do this perfectly.
Stand back and feel proud; try to wait a little before you cut yourself the first slice. You deserve it! And you are going to love the toast this bread makes!
Navajo bread
Flatten a fist-size ball of dough pancake thin to 1/2 skillet size; fry on both sides in hot oil. Use this as a base for a tostada.
Or, flatten loaf-size ball of dough pancake thin and cut into small pieces the size of the palm of your hand and fry both sides in hot oil; serve with butter and honey. Yum!
P.S. Gluten flour can be stored for as long as ground flour if you use the same techniques for storage.



Letter Re: 20 Pound Propane Tanks and Differing Valve Designs in the U.S.

Mr. Rawles;
Saw a post concerning propane tanks dumped along roadways.
People need to be careful if they go and salvage these propane tanks as the folks who make meth amphetamine ("meth") use the propane tanks to hold anhydrous ammonia to make the meth with. If the tank has been painted some color other than white and the valve on the tank looks bluish green then it has [or has had] anhydrous ammonia in it. The tanks have a tendency to explode as they are not designed for the pressures anhydrous ammonia put on the tank as it expands when transferred from the tanks designed to hold it. I will send a CD on meth waste found along the road that our company made. (They made it because we have had employees injured after coming across meth lab waste along the roadway. The worst case I heard about was a mower running over a container and the person spent 10+ days in the hospital and it cost the company some $10,000 to [repair and] decontaminate the mower. – Ron from Ohio



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"You are the light of the world. A city that is set on a hill cannot be hidden. Nor do they light a lamp and put it under a basket, but on a lampstand, and it gives light to all who are in the house. Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works and glorify your Father in heaven." – Matthew 5:14-16