Odds ‘n Sods:

U.S. Housing Crash Deepens in 2008 After Record Drop

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The new quasi-survivalist movie “I Am Legend“s opened with a bang: a whopping $29.6 million one day box office take in 3,606 theaters. Hey, maybe another producer in Hollywood will take note that movies with survival themes sell lots of tickets, and they will buy my “Pulling Through” script.

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SF In Hawaii sent us this suggestion: Siano Solar-Powered Bug Zapper Lanterns. SF’s comment: “This is how I plan on feeding my chickens…”

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Cathy Buckle included the following in one of her recent letters from inflation-ravaged Zimbabwe: “The same week that our President [Mugabe] flew to Lisbon, a couple of South African visitors invited me to tea at a local restaurant. I queued at my local bank but was again limited to how much of my own money I could withdraw and was allowed to take just five million dollars. Immediately I spent three million dollars buying one light bulb and one jar of peanut butter and so with just two million dollars left, I hoped I wasn’t paying for tea. At the restaurant three cups of tea, one waffle and one toasted sandwich were ordered. The bill came to 7.2 million dollars.”

Note from JWR:

The SurvivalBlog benefit auction, ends at midnight, tonight. The high bid is at $285. This auction is for six items: 1.) a Katadyn Pocket water filter, (with a $200 retail value) 2.) a Watersafe field water test kit ( a $27 retail value), both donated by Ready Made Resources, 3.) A copy of the latest edition of “The Encyclopedia of Country Living” by the late Carla Emery (a $32 retail value) 4.) an autographed copy of my novel “Patriots” (a $23 retail value), 5.) an autographed copy of my nonfiction book “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation” (a $25 retail value), and 6.) a SurvivalBlog Logo Contractor/Operator cap (a $13.50 retail value.) Please send us your bid via e-mail., before midnight, Eastern Time. (9 p.m., Pacific Time.)

The Survivalist’s Coffee Cup, by Matt M.

In the novel “Patriots”, one of the characters scrounges a packet of Sanka from an MRE and complains that the coffee has run out. In the Civil War, Southerners used chicory as a substitute, which (to say the least) is an acquired taste. These unfortunate uses of ersatz coffees can be avoided, if the prudent survivalist plans ahead and learns the relevant skills now.

Beans
Coffee is harvested from the fruit of the coffee tree, and the fruit discarded. Its inner green seed is the bean itself, which is then roasted, ground, and sold in your local market. This is the fundamental commodity that a survivalist would stock. Therefore, we need to know how to get the beans, how to store them, and what to do with them once we have them.
There are several green bean suppliers on the Internet. The author frequents a [vendor web] site called Sweet Maria’s, which not only supplies the beans but also roasting equipment and advice. Most of their equipment is expensive and electric-powered, but they have good prices and good advice. Other sites include Bald Mountain Coffee, Marlton Coffee, and Our Coffee Barn. Local organic food stores may also stock green beans. Shop around, save your cash. I have managed to see cost savings approaching 50% over roasted coffee beans. Given how easy the roasting can be, you might wonder just what you’re getting for your money when you go to Fourbucks.

While cheaper than roasted beans bought at the store, coffee is a commodity, and subject to inflation. After all, its value stays constant, as green beans can be kept almost indefinitely, but its cost rises as the dollar depreciates. Buying now will cost more today but pay off later. Buying small quantities over time will likely be the most economical option for most. Buying later will be difficult and painful.
I buy green coffee in 10 pound sacks. Given how much my wife and I drink on a daily basis, this works out to approximately a year’s supply at 1 cup a day. Heavier drinkers should plan on more, but physiological effects should be taken into account when making your purchase.

If you do not plan to purchase mass quantities all at once, buy twice as much as you need. That way you can save half the beans and brew the rest, slowly stockpiling for The Crunch. You will end up paying more in shipping (unless you find a local supplier), but it may be prudent, especially if you wish to avoid debt.

Regardless of the amount you plan to buy, have at least one month’s supply of decaf beans on hand. Towards the end, when the bean supply runs low, decaf beans can be added so as to decrease the negative effects of caffeine withdrawal. A good way to notice if your caffeine intake is too high is to skip coffee for a day. If you suffer a headache, pour less the next morning. You’ll be thankful you did when the beans run out.

Roasting
The method that is easiest for roasting coffee is to use a hot-air popcorn popper. The beans are added and the power applied, causing the beans to fly in the popper and fall back to the chamber. It requires the least amount of effort and produces the fastest results, but requires the popper to be cleaned thoroughly afterwards (so that residual oils do not catch fire the next time).
A more practical solution for a survival retreat would be to use a cast-iron container and an oven. The oven is heated to a high temperature and the beans left in the container to roast. The author has not tried this method, but recommends practicing it as often as possible, if you can’t spare the electricity for a hot-air popper.
As the coffee roasts, the outer hull of the bean will separate. These are quite light, and if you use a hot air popper they will go flying. They make an excellent addition to a compost pile. If you use an oven, they will stay in the cast iron container, but may be more difficult to separate without a screen of some sort.
After the hulls separate a short period will pass before the beans start to crack. This is normal, and indicates the gases in the bean are expanding and escaping. Watch the bean color closely, as the uniformity of the roast is indicated by the uniformity of the color across the beans. When the beans are the desired color, remove from heat and leave to cool. They will continue to emit gas. For this reason, roasting is ideally done outside or where there is a vent handy.

Grinding
The beans must be ground before they can be filtered, and most stores sell relatively cheap blade grinders or the more expensive burr grinders. These are not the best solutions for long term preparation, but are a nice luxury if you have the power to spare.
An alternative is a hand cranked grinder. Many camping outfitters stock backpack grinders that can grind enough beans for one or two people for a day. However, these are not sufficient long term solutions either, as they are typically made of plastic and spare parts aren’t available from the supplier.
A general purpose food grinder would be sufficient for coffee beans, as long as spare parts are available. It should be cleaned between uses so that the bean oils do not clog the grinding surfaces.
In a pinch, beans could be ground between two stones. If this is done, however, be careful to use a quality filter, unless you like your coffee with extra grit.

Brewing
A fresh water supply is necessary for coffee, and should be clean, clear, and safe to drink. Water issues are discussed in detail elsewhere on SurvivalBlog, and study of such is left as an assignment to the reader.
A reusable filter is not only more economical in the long run than paper filters, but also more durable and environmentally friendly (if you care). Keep 2 on hand, so that if one breaks or is damaged a replacement is available.
A percolator or french press are likely the best choices for brewing without grid power. A percolator operates by plumbing. As the water is heated, it rises through a pipe to a tray above the water, where the coffee grounds are kept. It filters through the grounds and returns to the water supply. A french press is a jar with a filter attached to a plunger. The grounds are added, hot water is poured in, and the mix is capped and left to steep. When done, the plunger is pressed and the filter pushes the grounds to the bottom, where they stay. Regardless of brewing method, a metal apparatus is better than glass. Dropping the metal brewer may only dent it, but glass will shatter.

Storing
Green coffee can be kept much longer than roasted coffee, without detriment to the taste of the drink. The beans start losing flavor when they are roasted, but the flavor stays as long as the beans are green.
If storing inside, beans should be kept separate from other foods and in their own container. Avoid humidity, as this can breed mold. A multi-purpose food grade plastic container works well for the purpose.
If stored outside, or in a cache somewhere, precautions should be taken to protect the beans from decay. In most cases, storing it like you would a grain supply is best – avoid moisture, seal to protect form vermin intrusion, and avoid sunlight and heat. One method that could have dual purpose would be to put the beans in a Mason jar and fill with carbon dioxide, using a dry ice method. That way you would have beans and canning supplies on hand.

Other Uses
A post-TEOTWAWKI world would have a great many people eager for a caffeine fix, and coffee beans would be a great trade commodity. You could also teach people how to roast them, for a price. Aside from that, coffee beans should be kept out of sight. Most people don’t prepare for disasters, and fewer still stock up on coffee. If word gets out that you [still] drink coffee, it might draw unwanted attention. Use caution. [JWR Adds: Sources of caffeine such as coffee also have some tactical utility in increasing wakefulness on occasion for folks that are put on perimeter security during late night and early morning hours. I’ve never been a coffee drinker, but I can see the wisdom of storing some–both for barter and as a mild stimulant.]

Conclusion
Emergency preparedness is about making sure a drastic change in society negatively affects you as little as possible. Coffee can help ease such a transition, if simple preparations are made in advance. As with all things, you should prepare for the day when you can’t get it anymore, and avoid addiction to it at the same time.

Letter Re: Livestock for the Self-Sufficient Retreat

Mr. Rawles;
My husband has gotten me into reading SurvivalBlog and I have been trying to keep current and read some of the posts. I have some points I would like to add.
I had a subscription to a publication called The Animal Finders Guide and it has listings for exotic and heirloom animals. Along with this it has some very good articles on the care and management of animals I think most of your readers would benefit from, especially if they are leaning towards yaks, camels or even less known breeds of standard livestock.
On the breeds for horses for retreats I would like to point out that if you raise a Mustang foal in any type of climate it will adapt. They are hardy, easy keepers and have a lot less genetic problems that could kill a breeding program. Also not mentioned was the Icelandic Horse which will eat salmon and can carry larger riders. Granted they are not the fastest or the tallest, but for temperament and willingness you can’t beat them. Certain Morgan bloodlines and Quarterhorse are fine but can carry for problems. Some people choose for looks and not [based upon] research or functionality. With any breeds you need to find out about temperament and genetics. Then your group needs to learn the basics:

Merck Veterinary Care
Shoeing and Hoof Trimming
Training
Gelding (Altering)

Most common ailments and are you going to breed your stock? Can you house and handle a stud? Can you take the horses from day one to saddle safely? Do you need pack animals? How much grazing can your retreat handle? How can you pen to rotate your grazing and hay fields? Can you repair your tack?
In a worst case scenario the most sought after horses and livestock will be working stock. Draft horses and mules, good saddle horses, ox and even Boer goats for brush removal (they may not eat everything but they will work long after you can’t get a brush hog )

I ran into someone the other day who thought breeding livestock is as easy as breeding her dogs. She bought a stud colt, a pony at that and she has never had any experience with horses before. I think after I told her about the issues with some studs she does regret it, but most have no clue how dangerous livestock and exotic animals can be. Horses and camels bite hard and can do permanent damage. A stud can hurt anyone and can be dangerous to handle for women at certain times, studs fight, break through fences after mares and some just are plain mean no matter how you raise them. Bulls are also fun and can gore you and crush you even if they have been dehorned.

How do you handle disease with no vaccines? Can you keep wildlife away from your animals? Can anyone in your group butcher?
Sorry to go on but most books I have read do not even touch on most of this. How about a series on animal choices and care? Maybe some breed info on large guardian dog (LGD) breeds and how best to find these animals. When is the best time to buy and where to find good breeders? Thank you. – Tracy D.

Letter Re: A “Christmas Challenge” from a SurvivalBlog Reader

Hello SurvivalBlog Readers,
In reflecting on the past year I can honestly say that I have enjoyed reading the SurvivalBlog every day. While I do not always agree with everything said, this blog will make one seriously think about all
their survival preparations. It is my opinion that if the readers of this blog prepare to the best of our individual ability we will be among those who, after the SHTF event, and those events that follow the initial event, we will be among those who will return our nation to its Constitutional greatness in the society of nations.
I have enjoyed this blog immensely. My wife of 42 years is reading daily posts over my shoulder. My sons read it, though not as frequently as their dad. But they are coming around. There is something here for everyone regardless of how you see events shaping up. The blog is well assembled. I have managed an Internet business since 1993 and I can tell you from first hand experience there is a fantastic amount of time, energy and thought put into maintaining this service.
It is the Christmas season. A time for remembering and a time for giving. I challenge all SurvivalBlog readers to say “Thank You Jim”, by remembering Jim and his family this Christmas. I challenge all blog readers to match my small Christmas gift of $25.00. Do it now before you forget it. BTW, I have never met Jim and his family but we have corresponded, from time to time, for more than ten years. I know him by the Spirit. – Martin in Montana

Odds ‘n Sods:

A new medical study suggests a link between the use of cholesterol-lowering “statin” drugs, like Zocor (simvastatin) and Lipitor (atorvastatin) and higher risk of brain hemorrhage in patients who have had a recent stroke or Transient Ischemic Attack (TIA–commonly called a “mini-stroke” or “warning stroke.”) But the researchers opine that the benefits of the statin drugs outweigh their risks. Bah! In my opinion, the statin drugs are grossly over-prescribed, most often to allow people to continue to eat greaseburgers. Granted, there are some people that are genetically predisposed to high cholesterol, but the solution to high cholesterol for the vast majority of the citizenry is a healthy diet. Here at the Rawles Ranch we mainly eat venison, elk, and smaller quantities of rabbit and chicken. We only eat store-bought meat when we travel. I should mention that when I applied for a life insurance policy a few years ago, my insurance carrier insisted on a physical exam, which included blood tests. My low-density lipoprotein (LDL or “bad cholesterol”) and VLDL (very-low-density lipoproteins or “very bad cholesterol”) numbers were so low that they thought that it was an error. The insurer wanted me to re-test! It wasn’t until I explained my diet that they relented.

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Mark G. mentioned this article: Is Survival Only for The Rich? It is hard to believe that SurvivalBlog readers are characterized as “yuppies” in at least one other blog, when you see folks like this–to provide some genuine contrast.

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Mark S. suggested this piece by James Turk: Liquidity Won’t Help Insolvency

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In answer to those who ask me: “At what age should I start homeschooling my children?”, see this video clip of Lily, a 23-month-old geography savant.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Cowardice asks, Is it safe? Expediency asks, Is it politic? Vanity asks, Is it popular? But conscience asks, Is it right?” – William Morley Punshon

Note from JWR:

The SurvivalBlog benefit auction ends tomorrow, Saturday December 15th. The high bid is now at $275. This auction is for six items: 1.) a Katadyn Pocket water filter, (with a $200 retail value) 2.) a Watersafe field water test kit ( a $27 retail value), both donated by Ready Made Resources, 3.) A copy of the latest edition of “The Encyclopedia of Country Living” by the late Carla Emery (a $32 retail value) 4.) an autographed copy of my novel “Patriots” (a $23 retail value), 5.) an autographed copy of my nonfiction book “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation” (a $25 retail value), and 6.) a SurvivalBlog Logo Contractor/Operator cap (a $13.50 retail value.) Please send us your bid via e-mail.

Letter Re: Communications in Times of Crisis

James,
Disclaimer: I am not a lawyer! Nor am I a communications specialist. Nor am I an electrical engineer. All of the values cited in the following letter are estimates, and anyone is invited to refute or embellish, or add corrected information to these meanderings. I am by no means an expert on the subject, but, I do have some background in amateur radio and have been involved in communications since I built my first “comm” system at the age of 14 for myself and my buddies, and throughout the years, including time spent in the US Army Signal Corps and as a holder of an a U.S. Amateur (“Ham”) license. Any information included in this dissertation is my own opinion, and I will not be held responsible for anyone taking any part of it out of context or using my interpretations as advice for any illegal purpose. And, as always, your mileage may vary. I also won’t get into propagation characteristics of each band, except in a personal experience sort of way. That would be a book unto itself.
I have noticed a lot of disinformation regarding so called “survival communications”. Let’s talk about the interpretation and my opinion of some the legalities and the pitfalls of the most bandied-about schemes.

I am starting with my hard wired comm scheme between my parents house, and my buddy’s houses back in the early 1960s; conjured together with parts reclaimed from the dumpster at the Western Electric factory where they built those really neat rotary dial phones:.
1] Price, free, except for sending my little sister and brothers dumpster diving. I had to pay them in nickel candy bars.
2] Secure, no doubt, hard wired. Well, unless you count line taps.
3] Risks? One of the neighbors kept cutting the wire in the storm drain.
So, hard wired is the most secure, unless the aforementioned line taps are applied. A good current detection device will clue you in to voltage drops due to line taps. This schema is also the most susceptible to interruption [from cut cables.]

MURS:
Yep, legally, you are allowed to send and receive voice communication within the Multiple Use Radio Service (MURS), at a grand total of 2 watts out from the radio. Depending on the gain from your antenna system, your line losses from cable and connectors, and your distance to your intended recipient, this may be a option for your network. On the other hand, I am sure some of you have gotten the bright idea of buying some of the VHF Ham gear out there, and made the conversion so easily done to these rigs, and now have anywhere from 65 to 100 watts of power available for use on these MURS frequencies! The most unfortunate aspect of this is: look where the MURS frequencies reside: smack dab in the middle of the Public Service band. I would hate to think what would occur if someone started broadcasting with that amount of power, a few kilocycles away from a fire department or police channel. You are in for a lot of grief if you are caught. So, to be legal within the MURS band, you really need to have a most efficient antenna system with just 2 watts kicking into it. Let’s think a nice gain beam [antenna]. Use Belden 9913 low loss cable, [which has only] about 1.5 to 2 db loss per 100 feet, nice UHF connectors, the newer ones with maybe 1.5 db loss each. And as each 3db gain yields, in theory, a doubling of output power. And you can pretty much have an effective radiated power [ERP] of between 10-to-20 watts or more from a 2 watt radio, depending, of course on the gain of your antenna. Not bad. And depending on distance and your intended use, this may provide your network with suitable communication for your intended purpose.

QRP, or low power broadcasting, is nothing to be laughed at. We used to establish contacts across the US with 20 watt radios during good propagation periods with VHF equipment and some killer homemade beam antennas on top of the tallest peak in the state. I guess the best one I built was, in theory, around 15-16 db gain. And I used simple parts available most anywhere wire, cable and hardware is sold. I think one of my better ones I built for 2 Meters/440 dual banding was hacked out of an old television antenna.

1] Price? You can do it on the cheap. But I really suggest investing in a good SWR [Standing Wave Ratio] meter as one of your first purchases. And be sure to get radios that allow the use of external antennas! Once you start tuning your system, you will be surprised at the difference a finely tuned antenna system will provide.
2] Secure? Pretty much. Not a lot of folks using MURS, at least in my neck of the woods. I have a scanner going when I am home, and I have never heard anyone using these frequencies. Again, YMMV.
3] Risks? Only risk you take is not following the legal output limits and risking the ire of the local public services, and indirectly, the FCC. If you do it legal, no worries. With the exception of falling off the roof or hanging your antenna on power lines, or falling off the tower. You get the picture. But if you hack a “big radio” and have a lot of losses in your antenna system, which leads to a lot of garbage being spewed from your system, which really ticks off the fire and police services in your area, as well as eventually damaging your rig. And when the FCC gets involved, your low profile is shot to pieces! The FCC doesn’t play. You can read the reports on the web [Typically,] you get a warning the first time; the second time, you get fined–usually around $10 ,000. The reason I proffer this advice is that I have seen a few remarks on the web about this very same subject. Don’t take the chance of screwing up your life just for communications. There are plenty of legal avenues which allow you to accomplish your goals.
This is a wonderful country, is it not? Do you think other countries give it’s populace the right to communicate so freely? Not many.

Ham Radio:
1] Price: Varies
2] Secure? You call it. Lots of ears tuned in 24×7
3] Risks? Be aware that all parties must hold a valid Ham license to operate a rig, or be in the same room with a licensed Ham at their side. Don’t even think about buying a couple of ham rigs to chat without getting licensed. Forget that the FCC and.the local amateurs will hunt you down. The “fox hunt” that will ensue will be an “event”, complete with barbecue, door prizes, and direction finding gear! Those old boys have worked long and hard to keep [their portion of] the spectrum. They are not about to let a couple of fools screw it up for them.

But, if you and your crew want to get the Technician/General amateur license, it is very easy with the “no-code” requirement now. Or even learn the code [talk about secure!] It is a remarkable hobby filled with good folks and a veritable storehouse of information is amassed among all those good folks. Allowed output power is awesome, plenty of inexpensive gear to utilize. This may be an option for you. But, as mentioned, the Hams police their own freqs and rightly so. They have been fighting off interlopers for years. Do it legally. Ii is very rewarding. [JWR Adds: It is noteworthy that the advent of the Internet has meant a decline in amateur radio usage. Web surfing and blogging are time sinks that occupy many of the hours that hams previously used on the air. A lot of middle age hams are letting their licenses lapse. This means two things: 1.) Plenty of open frequencies in the erstwhile “crowded” bands, and 2.) Lots of high quality used ham gear available at ham fests and swap meets for pennies on the dollar. I strongly encourage SurvivalBlog readers to get their “No Code” Technician licenses.]

GMRS:
1] Price: expensive! This applies to all Business Band equipment. And the following is my interpretation of the FCC regs. I am not a lawyer. I have just pored over the convoluted FCC regulations so many times, that this is what I have determined: If you want to correct me, please be my guest! The legalese is tremendous within the regulations. The print is so darned fine, I had to use a magnifier most of the time to read it [grin] So, here we go. This is how I understand it:
If you are not a HAM, [and many hold the $85, five year GMRS license as well as their Ham license] by law, you cannot convert a Ham 440 rig to operate in the GMRS band. A Ham is a hobbyist and the Amateur Radio Service was started as a hobbyist and experimental environment. If someone holds a valid Ham license, and a GMRS license, they can use their UHF440 rigs to operate within the GMRS and FRS services, within the proper output power limits. And vice-versa. In the olden days, Ham conversions of commercial gear to operate in the Ham bands were common. Again, Amateur radio is a hobbyist service, and the rules and regs take this into account. GMRS is strictly a service designed to provide families and family-owned businesses a mode of communication. And as such, is an entirely different animal. There are any number of grandfathered businesses still using these frequencies..they can’t interfere with you and you can’t interfere with them. Everyone is accountable. You must apply for, pay and receive your station license from the FCC for the General Mobile Radio Service, and use FCC Type Accepted Business Band radios for your communication needs . Be aware,that the FCC can inspect your station at your licensed address, at any time of their choosing. Seriously, I don’t think they will ever do so, unless they receive complaints. But, it is a caveat of the licensing structure.
Okey dokey, let’s get to the good part: 50 watts! You are allowed to use up to 50 watts out at the radio end of things. You pay your $85, and you have some decent power to play with. Add a nice 10-12 db gain antenna, some low loss cable, and connectors. You get the picture. There is a tremendous [difference in the] amount of effective radiated power [ERP]. If you really want to get geeked out, and adapt/buy/build a nice high gain beam [antenna]. You can see where I am going with this. Several caveats as well with antenna structure, since we are on the subject: height, no more that 60 feet above ground level or 20 feet above the structure that the antenna is mounted on.

Here is another caveat: All GMRS repeaters are the private property of their owners! The owners of said repeaters can allow and deny access as they wish. As a licensed GMRS operator, you can operate simplex on the GMRS frequencies with full power, you can operate at 5 watts out on the interstitial and FRS freqs, but you must have permission or an agreement to utilize someone else’s GMRS repeater. This doesn’t mean you can’t put up your own repeater on an unused GMRS assigned frequency pair.

Bubble Pack/Blister pack FRS/GMRS Handi-talkies (HTs) are commonplace. They have limited battery life. Did I mention that most are illegal [if operated on the GMRS band without a license]? The FCC seems to ignore these toys mainly because of their low output and limited ability to cause problems with existing services. They probably also feel it is poor form to arrest a 10 year old just because he is operating a walkie-talkie without a license It is also illegal to modify the unit to add an external antenna to it, and yes if push comes to shove, you can build your own re-transmitter out of a pair of them to retransmit your signal. The legality of that is also suspect, depending on the channel you are utilizing the repeater on. Be aware that the [advertised] “17-to-25” mile units may provide reliable comms in an urban environment of only around three miles! That has been my experience with some of the top of the line models. They are useful , when coupled with a GMRS licensed business band high power rig, to provide simplex communication between family members. As mentioned, GMRS is a service that is designed for the family. You can communicate with other family members or other GMRS license holders, legally. No , you can’t hand out blister pack radios to several of your hunting buddies , while you sit back at the cabin giving out your call sign , with 50 watts of juice pouring out the back of your rig! But, You can have any number of families, each with a valid GMRS license, communicating all they want to, with any number of radios, with at least one person in each family a valid GMRS licensee. Think of the possibilities.
2] Secure? Relatively. You can look on the ‘Net and see how many licensed GMRS holders there are in your area. Figure that someone may be listening at any one time. Figure that you may hear a lot of kids playing army with them. But, for the most part, at least in my area, not a lot of activity , except for the aforementioned young warriors “taking the hill”. Again, if you are legal, you have nothing to worry about. That is one of the positive aspects of the license fee: It keeps most of the folks that are not serious about the proper utilization of the band, off the band. At least, off the band running a lot of power…
3] Risk: Besides the obvious of any person listening to your conversation, and you being well within the letter of the law. None.
Repeater owners. Power [source]! Many repeater owners do have backup power on their repeaters. But, again, you should not rely on other folks for your needs! Build your system so that simplex is your most oft used means of making contact. And power redundancy.
Stay away from the scramblers you see advertised…They are illegal to use on GMRS and those who are caught using them seem to be the kind of folks that drive a large powerboat in the middle of the night from offshore and deliver huge bundles of goods to large trucks parked at the edge of the bays and estuaries on the Florida coast.

Citizens Band:
1] Price? To do it right, you really need some of the higher end SSB radios, period. Or, if you are really lucky, you can find some of those superb Johnson SSB 23 channel tube sets sitting at a yard sale table brand new in the box! You wish.
At 12 watts Legal output, with the ability to buy or homebrew some really high gain antennas, SSB CBs may be a viable option. For example, if you have the acreage, a Rhombic designed for the 11 Meter band is one killer antenna! Agreed, it is large , but the gain from one of these monsters is around 22-26 db, in theory. I built one for the 10 meter band. There were very few pile-ups [Pile-ups = large number of amateur stations trying to contact a rare station] that I couldn’t bust with my 100 watt rig and the rhombic. I gave out a call one morning, from the wilds of Alabama. A fellow from California answered back, asking how much power I was running, since the band wasn’t “open” yet! (“Open” meaning propagation that is conducive to reliable communications.) He was running a kilowatt, and, of course , he was making a joke, but, it does point out what can be done with a couple hundred feet of wire and a little bit of power–and a homebrew tuner built with parts from a PRC-25, Vietnam era vintage surplus radio. If you decide to homebrew, think about the Rhombic [antenna] or similar. Lots of miles per gallon with this antenna. Commercial antennas are as pricey as business band, from what I have seen. And yes, you can utilize Ham antennas for peak output in the 11 Meter band. Again, a good SWR meter is a necessity.
2] Secure? In my personal opinion, SSB is extremely secure, at least in my area. I monitor the 11 Meter band along with the rest, when 10 meters is open, I will also cruise thru the 11 Meter band and have yet to even hear anyone on SSB. Except, remember, I was not going to get into propagation characteristics. Well, okay, band openings mean you may be able to chat around the world when conditions are right. Whether that is helpful or a hindrance, you make the decision.

AM (Standard Full Band Propagation CB Channels 1-40): The negative aspect? Every Bozo on the block who ever had delusions of grandeur seems to have spent $40 on a radio. I have yet to find an open channel on AM, well, almost never, I pretty much gave up on it unless it is Channel 19……always seems there is someone either railing against something, sprouting racist nonsense, or simply some drunk singing Hank Williams on a channel or playing local DJ !
Positive aspect? I do carry one in my truck for travel, and for that, Channel 19 is invaluable when commuting. Lot of good folks driving trucks, and a few idiots as well. Ignore the foul mouth idiots, and by all means, install an el cheapo AM CB in [each of] your vehicle[s]. The first time that the truckers notify you of a [traffic] jam and save you an hour sitting in traffic, and not sitting at home, it makes that little bit of coin you spent on the rig well worth it! $40 for the radio, another $20-to-$30 on a mag[netic] mount antenna. These are 4 watt radios, and the commercial mag mounts antennas are pretty much 3 db gain…so, they compensate for the line loss and what little reflected power there is since they are tuned for center band. Channel 19!

Risks: As far as licensing, none. As far as interference to other persons, possibly plenty! The 11 Meter band has been known as a major noise maker for relatively cheap, less than adequately shielded electrical devices. And with the influx of even cheaper import electronics, I doubt the shielding has gotten any better. They are supposed to adhere to FCC design specs. Only thing you can do is provide the best possible antenna system, with the lowest losses, and see what transpires with the video and audio devices in your home and adjacent homes. In the “olden days” you could buy/build filters to install on you and your neighbors sets to alleviate most if not all interference. But, unless you have really good relationships with your neighbors, I believe you may be rebuffed when you try to play with their home theater! Then again, interference may not be a problem. I do know if you decide to be a smart guy, and drive an amplifier with your rig, and you do cause interference, and it is reported, and you ignore the warnings from the FCC, they will prosecute.

Summary:
Equipment: In my opinion, start cheap with the transceivers unless you are sure that the system you have chosen will be viable. If you are guessing, then buy used, with 90 day warranties, from a local dealer if possible. Ask their opinion, get their help if needed. Most are glad to assist, since they like to sell equipment!

Buy the best antenna components possible: Belden 9913, Top Quality UHF connectors or Type N connectors as I use on 400 MHZ and above. Yes, they are expensive. Don’t get cheap on your transmission system. You don’t put cheap tires on a vehicle that your wife and kids depend on to take them places. The car may be old, but you are a fool to ride on old rubber. Same with your comm system: the radios may be used , ugly and perfectly functional, and 1/2 the cost of new, but invest in the very best transmission line components that you can. Please get yourself a nice SWR meter! Also, be aware that this gear has resale kids. Just look on eBay. Distance between “stations” and terrain will be the determining factor in 90 percent of your communication schema. And , in most cases, the only way you will be able to find out is to experiment. So, you invest in a system to test the waters..you find it just doesn’t suit you or your group’s needs….you can usually get the majority of your funds back, and continue on to the next investigative venture! So you lost a few bucks. You gained knowledge and experience, and hopefully another skill to add to your resume. I actually get a great sense of accomplishment putting all the pieces together and making a system such as the ones described function as they should. Sure beats sitting in front of a computer blasting bad guys with lasers. The ‘Net is a storehouse of information…if you want to homebrew some of this stuff, there are plenty of resources at your local library, Ham clubs in your area, the ‘Net, as mentioned, and you may have friends or relatives already “in the know” who would be glad to assist.
This is by no means a comprehensive analysis! Just a few thoughts on the subject. Stay on the right side of the FCC, don’t fall off the roof, keep your antennas away from power lines, and above all, have fun!
– Bob in Georgia

JWR Adds: I second Bob’s motion on his suggestion “don’t get cheap on your transmission system”. Buy (or build) good quality antennas, and buy top-of-the-line connectors and the best coaxial cable you can afford. Also, don’t forget that any coax that is exposed to the elements should be changed once every 8 to 10 years. (Or even more frequently in extremely humid climates, or in locales with big temperature swings.) So, if possible, lay in a supply of extra coax. (Look for reels of it at ham swap meets.)

Disclaimer: Anyone that is planning to use any radio transceiver system should research applicable laws and get the appropriate licenses before ever buying equipment or keying a handset!

Weekly Survival Real Estate Market Update

This week, after a personal experience with a house fire in a rental property I own, I want to cover how to secure your retreat from fire when your not living on site. Although the fire department was on scene and had the fire out within 10 minutes of the 911 call (the property was inside city limits) you can expect a 15 to 30 minute response time to your unoccupied retreat (in good weather), and that is if you have an automatic notification system or if a passerby sees the smoke and flames, and pray the fire is not during ‘open burn season’ in your area, otherwise just consider it a “burn down”! Fire suppression is probably the most important item next to the secure storage of your supplies and one of the most overlooked as well. You’ll need to budget some extra cash to install a moderately priced automatic system to guard your valuable supplies.

I’m not too familiar with high end waterless automatic fire suppression systems, as we simply do not have these in place in our jurisdiction, with the exception of several commercial buildings and they are the very simple pressurized type water based systems. [JWR Adds: These typically using a gas. Older systems often used Halon (an alkane with linked halogens), but that was considered unfriendly to the environment (“ozone depleting”) so many of the new systems use HFC-like gasses]. For a retreat though, I would highly recommend that you do not use a water based suppression system (in the house), it will simply create as much if not more damage than the fire will and you will lose your supplies with the exception of your guns, assuming that they are stored in a highly rated safe. The keys to a successful fire suppression action inside your retreat will be two-fold: One, the fire will need to be detected early, the waterless system will need to be able to discharge enough retardant to put the flames out and Two: The local fire department will need to be paged out to respond while the system is activated.

With a plethora of different waterless suppression agents and systems on the market the best advice I can give out is to make sure that the system is activated by a thermal and chemical detection system and that it is completely off the grid so a power loss will not disable it. If you Scroogle ‘waterless home fire suppression system’, you can read all day. The second issue would be to purchase a waterless system that uses a compound that can either be easily recharged or you can purchase the extra retardant/gas/particulate et cetera, and the equipment to recharge the system without having to have a ‘tech’ come out and do it, since post TSHTF it may of course prove futile. The retardant should also be non-toxic to humans as you’ll want to keep it on a manual override switch once the retreat is activated for any last ditch suppression during a major siege on the property. Of course, standard fire extinguishers should be as prevalent as loaded firearms in your retreat once your there and living full-time, like the American Express card “never be home without it!”.

Most of the clients I’ve met this year through SurvivalRealty.com are technically savvy enough to build a monitoring system that would notify them via page or email that there was an issue at their retreat and should be incorporated along with the multitude of motion sensors and cameras in and around the property for long distance oversight when your half a country away. Another item of interest would be to make sure and package all of your supplies inside waterproof bags or containers. Imagine you either have a water based sprinkler system and/or the firefighters arrive and dump three thousand gallons of water inside your retreat while fighting the fire! Although half the home was lost the basement survived and yet was two feet deep in nasty contaminated water! If none of the supplies were burnt would they be salvageable if you merely stuck them inside wall lockers and plastic tubs without first vacuum sealing them in bags? Probably not, they would all be destroyed. Do you seal your ammo before putting it inside the .50 cal ammo can(s)? You should. It’s not necessary to seal the bag so tight that it rips when you drop it in the can, just enough to keep water out if the cans seal is compromised. What about all those wool blankets, BDUs, toilet paper , medical supplies, et cetera? Yes, that’s right, the toilet paper, keep it dry at all costs, it’ll be worth more than bullion should TEOTWAWKI happen! Every survival item deserves extra protective packaging, even the books stored for that rainy day on OP/LP duty! You’ll thank yourself later!

One last item would be to have a placard made with Fire Department instructions near the house, NOT on the house of course. A simple reflective 2’x3′ sign near the driveway/walkway explaining to the responding volunteer firefighters what type of system you have in place, how to turn it off (especially if you go with a water system!) and any other information, like the location of any hydrants or standpipes on/near the property (yes, they are out here) and your immediate contact info. Although completely against all rules of OPSEC you could post a copy of the floor plan as well (not showing all the secret bunkers of course), this would be well appreciated and will help if they need to make entry.

As covered last year in SurvivalBlog you’ll still need a good gravity-fed water suppression system with decent head pressure without a pump to cover your home from the outside and to protect from wild land fires as well. That article is a good read when considering how to handle your retreat firefighting procedures.

To recap, think 1. Waterless suppression 2. Remotely and/ automatically activated 3. Cost effective and available recharging 4. Supplies secure from water damage. 5. Fire Department instructions near the house

If any readers out there have additional technical comments or experience that would be helpful for a subsequent comment, please e-mail them, especially anyone who is a full-time firefighter or that works for a company that manufactures or sells these waterless suppression systems. – T.S.

Odds ‘n Sods:

From Richard Daughty–aka The Mogambo Guru–posted by The Asia Times: Weak dollar induces a dream world

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Several months ago, when discussing the residential real estate market bubble, I wrote about “waiting for the other shoe to drop.” Here is an article (suggested by reader D.V.), that echoes my sentiments: Will the Commercial Real Estate Market Fall? Of course it will

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Rob at Affordable Shortwaves sent us this reminder: If any SurvivalBlog readers are looking for delivery of a Kaito KA1102 AM/FM/Shortwave radio by Christmas, then they should place their orders by Saturday, December 15th at the latest. I currently have radios in stock and can ship them out immediately upon receiving payment.”

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Reader Richard C. sent us this: Central banks band together for bailout. Richard’s comment: “Apparently such public collusion is unprecedented.”

Note from JWR:

Tomorrow is the much anticipated US release date for the quasi-survivalist movie “I Am Legend“, based on the novel of the same name by Richard Matheson. I am curious to see how loyal the movie is to the novel. After having read an early draft of the screenplay (by Mark Protosevich) and having seen the extended version of the promotional trailer, I suspect that it will be a blend of the novel and elements from “The Omega Man” (the 1971 film adaptation starring Charlton Heston.)

Letter Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget

Mr. Rawles,
I have recently begun reading your blog and I am intrigued by the ideas behind survivalism. As a Mormon who grew up in an area with frequent inclement weather, I have maintained an interest over the years and made, at least, some preparations. I presently have a well-equipped Bug-Out-Bag (FYI – Mormons generally refer to these as “72-hour kits”) for both my wife and I, an easily portable lock box containing all vital documents and an external hard drive with all digital documents, plenty of bottled water on hand, and sufficient food in our home for one month. We never let the tank get below half-full, and our car has a full emergency kit (food, tools, extinguisher, ice melt, etc.) just in case. One of our “Christmas presents” to us this year will be plastic sheeting to cover all windows/doors in the event of a crisis – most likely an earthquake or blizzard in this region, but one never knows. We presently own our own home – a townhouse – which has vast amounts of storage space in the attic, crawl space, and closets. I have a large tool kit from home improvement work. I do not, at this time, own a firearm.

Financially speaking, we’re strapped at the moment. We are both graduate school students with no income and, I’m sad to say, it will be that way for some time. That said, I would like to appropriate $100 of our budget over the next few months (from student loans, sadly) to preparing for the worst.

Clearly, $100 is insufficient for everything I will need. It will obviously not cover an acceptable firearm (not to mention ammunition, classes, etc.), nor is it enough for anything “fancy”. But, still, it is something.

How can I best prepare for the worst with this $100? Please keep in mind that we do have a Sam’s Club membership, so bulk buying is most certainly a possibility. We prefer to buy new or from an Army/Navy store as, in addition to being strapped for cash, we do not have much time to shop for used items. Thank you for your time, – S.

JWR Replies: Water should be first and foremost in every family’s disaster planning. I would recommend that you start by expanding your stock of stored water, as space permits. Well-washed used plastic soda pop bottles will suffice. Add 1/4 teaspoon of freshly-purchased plain liquid sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) bleach to each two liter bottle. (Be certain that hypochlorite its the only ingredient in the bleach that you buy–do not buy bleach with added scents or other ingredients.) Next, construct your own pre-filter and filter. (Later, when you have more cash, you should buy a more portable Katadyn water filter.)

With any remaining cash, stock up at Sam’s Club on foods that store well. Rice and beans are both relatively inexpensive when bought in bulk quantities. Even with those “Under $100” preparations you will be far better prepared than most of your neighbors who have no stored water, no way to treat water from open sources without grid power, and no more than three or four days worth of food on hand. Don’t be discouraged by your current lack of funds. Just work at preparedness slowly and systematically. Every bit of “fat” that your can trim from your budget–things like dinners out, processed/pre-packaged foods, entertainment, candy, snack foods, and various fripperies constitute potential savings that can be applied to your preparedness budget.

Never lose sight of the fact that there is a direct correlation between sweat (or man hours), versus money. If you take the time to do some research and then use even more more time and effort to fabricate your own gear, then you can save hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Although SurvivalBlog is fairly heavy on gear recommendations (since we are, after all, talking about preparedness for in the worst case a multigenerational societal collapse), I personally have a very modest budget. In fact, if I were so inclined, I could probably qualify for food stamps. (Note: I’m not looking for sympathy. Rather, I’m just trying to illustrate that substantial preparedness can be accomplished on a tight budget.)

Here at the Rawles Ranch, we live out in the hinterboonies (25+ miles from the nearest town) on a veritable shoestring budget. We buy very few items “new, off the shelf”. We buy most of our clothes in thrift stores. The Memsahib combs Craig’s List and the local classified ads for inexpensive livestock, tack, gardening tools, and so forth. When it came time to erect our garden fence, I made all of the posts from cedar trees that I felled here on the property, rather than buying fancy uniform-looking chemically-treated posts from the lumber yard. Ditto for our deer stand. Again, sweat versus dollars. Instead of heating our home with propane or electricity (like some of our wealthy neighbors do), we heat almost exclusively with firewood. I cut all of our wood myself, either here at the ranch, or in the adjoining National Forest. The only expenses for our firewood are gasoline, gas mixing and bar oil, and an inexpensive wood cutting permit from the USFS. Again, sweat versus dollars. Instead of buying hay, we swing a scythe for much of it. That is definitely sweat versus dollars! (OBTW, we are currently looking for a horse-drawn hay mower that our horse “Money Pit” can pull.) We either raise or hunt for nearly all of our meat, and we are ramping up to provide the majority of our produce in our garden. Yes, this all takes time. So does butchering, canning and dehydrating after harvest. But consider this: Not only are we pinching pennies, but we are also learning useful skills and building a small scale self-sufficiency infrastructure that will be invaluable WTSHTF.