Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"During the Second World War, the Germans took four years to build the Atlantic Wall. On four beaches it held up the Allies for about an hour; at Omaha it held up the U.S. for less than one day. The Atlantic Wall must therefore be regarded as one of the greatest blunders in military history." – Stephen Ambrose, D-Day, page 577



Note From JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 41 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 41 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Preparing for a Bug-Out by Motor Vehicle, by N.P.B.

“One must Hope for the Best, but Prepare for the Worst.” – Book of English Proverbs

We’ve all rehearsed it many times. A newsflash report comes on, reporting widespread chaos what appears to be the total, spectacular collapse of society. Food stores are empty. Gas station pumps are dry. All remnants of any social order have toppled, and panic has ensued. The next-second response to survivalists is second nature. Grab the kids, the AR-15, the Bug-Out-Bags, and head for the hills! To most survivalists, the most effective bug-out is clean and simple, requiring no transportation and just the pack on your back. Yet a very large number of us live in areas that are considered urban or suburban, meaning that a true unraveling of civilization would make such a short range or prolonged bug-out dangerous given the large number of unprepared occupants.  

The solution, as many see it is a Bug-Out Vehicle (BOV), which can dramatically extend range and speed in reaching secure retreat.  On a full tank of gas, a BOV can reach a destination hundreds of miles away in a matter of hours, whereas the same retreat would take days to reach on foot. Few would disagree with the logic that less time spent on the road to retreat means less danger.  Natural or man-made obstacles, such as bad weather or nomadic marauders, can be better managed given the protection of an enclosed vehicle.  Yet, I cannot overemphasize this:  While Bug-Out vehicles dramatically increase both your mobility and chances of bugging out safely, they are absolutely no substitute for the traditional bug-out on foot. Vehicles will often be destroyed in certain disasters, and an EMP will render almost all vehicles unusable. You and your family should always be prepared to walk to your Bug-Out-Location- or a secondary one- with your Bug-Out kits. A BOV should be seen as an option and expediency in bugging-out, rather than a critical part of your plan.

I am aware that many will disagree with me as to the wisdom of prepping a vehicle.  Hard-core, elemental survivalists preach the simplicity, reliability, and safety of a walking bug-out with only the supplies on your back. This breed of survivalists adheres solely to the “Prepare for the Worst” half of the prepping mantra. That is an invaluable attitude that should be instilled in every person, no doubt. But what about the other half- “Hope for the Best?”  What if, by a stroke of luck, vehicles are around? There is nothing wrong with capitalizing on advantages given to you by your environment or situation.  In many scenarios, your BOV will survive the initial aspects of a TEOTWAWKI situation.  More importantly, circumstances can arise which make a walking bug-out not possible. What if a family member breaks both of their legs, or is badly burned by a nuclear detonation? It is undoubtedly within the spirit of contingency planning to prep a vehicle. You may have heard the saying, “A good man makes his own luck.” By investing a portion of time and money into a bug-out-vehicle, you increase the chances that your BOV will be of use to you come TEOTWAWKI. When all is said and done, we don’t know what the conclusion of civilization will look like. Roads might be patrolled with tanks, or they could be empty. Your BOV could be incapacitated from an EMP, or it might be in showroom condition. Prudence, however, demands that a survivalist prepare for any number of scenarios, thus boosting his or her chances of surviving a TEOTWAWKI situation.

When I first thought about it, the ideal bug-out vehicle seemed to be that dream, roaring Jeep, loaded with tough accessories and modifications to make it the equivalent of a military Humvee.  Big wheels, big engines, and a tank-like chassis should be combined to yield the ultimate doomsday limousine, I reasoned.  Look like and become the toughest cat on the road and nothing can or will touch you. That can be true to some extent, but it’s important not to focus solely on a vehicle’s extreme capabilities. Rather, you take into consideration what the fundamental purpose of a vehicle is: to increase the speed, mobility, and range of a person. Sure, having that Wrangler with a 7-inch lift will give you more capabilities than sticking with your station wagon. But truck-like vehicles would have little advantages over normal cars should we experience a cataclysmic event- if all roads are shut down or covered in 6 feet of snow, guess what? Nobody’s going anywhere. More importantly, the fuel economy of your vehicle will be awful when compared to normal vehicles, which reduces your range and forces you to store large amounts of fuel (and, in day-to-day driving, cost you a significant amount more money at the pump, leaving you with less funds to prep with). Don’t feel like a bug-out vehicle has to be a multi-thousand dollar truck full of modifications.  
Rather, remember that any car, be it a Honda Civic to a Bentley, can function as a BOV. When all is said and done, all a BOV has to do is get you from point A to point B faster than walking speed. Try to balance efficiency and practicality with capability, based on your own personal scenario. The most important aspect of a vehicle is it can get you out fast and get out far. If you happen to be eyeing that monster truck capable of fording 5 feet of water, remember that you’re going to take a significant hit in fuel range. Plus, trying to “blend in” and navigate dangerous urban centers will be much more difficult with a large, tank-like truck. You’ll attract unwanted attention, and also increase the chances of a roll-over trying to maneuver around street corners.  At the same time, if you live in the mountains of Colorado, it’s probably not advisable to put a Prius to the test of unforgiving weather and terrain. The type of vehicle you choose is dependent on your environment. Urban residents will likely want to have a quick and maneuverable vehicle with as far a range as possible to escape rioting and chaos, while many rural preppers will desire a more adaptive vehicle to combat bad conditions. There are blends of the two. Next time you go car shopping, give thought to a crossover or all-wheel drive sedan.  Subaru makes a fleet of cars each equipped with all-wheel drive, without the usual gas guzzling and impracticality that come with it- and based on my own personal experiences, their vehicles have a long lifespan.  The Jeep Compass is also designed to be a fuel-efficient SUV.  I won’t spend any more time debating between the many species of BOVs, and won’t attest to any one’s success. It’s completely up to you if you want to purchase one dedicated for a bug-out, or if you just want to prepare your daily driver for TEOTWAWKI. 

How does one go about preparing the selected Bug Out Vehicle? For starters, let’s take a peek at the biggest limiting factor of many vehicles: fuel range. Most cars can travel a couple hundred miles on a single tank of gas, anywhere from two to eight hundred miles between fill-ups. There is, of course, a relatively clear solution to the “Fuel Problem”, which is to store fuel in anticipation of a gas pumps running dry. I advise to do so with NATO-classified “Jerry” Cans, often seen bolted to the rump of a Humvee or Willys Jeep. Jerry Cans can be easily installed on a roof rack or rear of a vehicle, giving them the strong prominence they have attained amongst military vehicles.  They also protect fuel against permeability better than plastic cans, and give the needed durability against punctures. I have had one case in my shed with a where a rodent of some kind took a chunk out of a 2.5 gallon plastic gas jug, presumably for a nest given that he took home the detached plastic.
 
When storing fuel- regardless whether you opt to use a plastic container or Jerry can- be sure to follow all the necessary guidelines to prevent an explosion.  Note that older, metal cans are not designed to vent expanding fumes like newer gas cans do. Most importantly, keep vehicle fuel far from your house.  When deciding on storage placement, think to yourself, “If I dropped a match in each of these cans right now, would I feel like my home is secure?” If you neglect basic flammables safety, you have already violated the Code of Prepping. Safe storage of fuel is a concept that has been drilled into our heads for years, and yet individuals still choose to ignore it. Please, think not only of yourself, but of the entire culture of Survivalists when choosing how to store your fuel. When your house blows up, killing you and your next door neighbor, the media will have a field day declaring that “thousands of so-called ‘preppers’ have infiltrated our society, storing ticking time bombs of gasoline in the midst of their paranoia.” Don’t jeopardize yourself or our reputation by doing something stupid- and that goes for not only safe storage of gas, but ammunition, firearms, et cetera, all things that some people are salivating for an excuse to go outlaw.

You’re also going to want to ensure that the fuel quality is of good standing. Most chemists agree that using premium fuel in an engine intended for 87 octane gasoline won’t increase performance. Even so, premium fuel contains better quality detergents and additives than its regular counterpart, which can help prevent deterioration. Some trials have determined that premium fuel leaves less gum deposits behind than lower octane gasolines  (See: VetteNet.org). Personally, if I am looking to fill up on the best quality gasoline available, I go for the Sunoco Ultra-93, 2 octane points higher than traditional Premium. Shell has a fairly good reputation for their V-Power, too. The gas station brand you choose for your storage fuel is extremely important! Don’t go for the no-name brand selling 20 cents cheaper unless you have reason to trust the owner. A large number of stations skimp on fuel quality, water contamination, and tank maintenance which can mean short shelf life. If you happen to live in the southern United States or a region where ethanol has not contaminated gas stations yet, try to take advantage of pure high octane gasoline. If you look at most American pumps, you’ll notice a disclaimer saying that the fuel contains 10 percent ethanol, derived from corn. There are only a handful of stations per state that don’t sell ethanol. Ethanol has two carbon bonds, but traditional gasoline has eight. It doesn’t take much science, although plenty of tests already exist, to show how engines’ durability and efficiency have been hit hard by Ethanol (EPA mileage ratings for older cars have already been lowered a few miles per gallon due to the increase in Ethanol treatments). So, if you can, try to find some gasoline without ethanol, as it enriches the quality and performance of your engine. Don’t stress out about it- it’s impossible to avoid ethanol- but if you are lucky to have the opportunity to, try to stick to pure gasoline [for your stored fuel.]

MOST IMPORTANTLY, add fuel stabilizer
to your stored fuel. Brands like STA-BIL can be found at your local hardware store. What stabilizer does is prevent corrosion and gums from forming in the fuel. Running some through your BOV is recommended, too, to help protect injectors and fuel delivery lines against corrosion or gumming.  Gas has remarkably fallen in quality over the past decade due to environmental regulating and companies cutting corners on refinement, additives, and detergents. Leave untreated gasoline sitting for a few years, especially in a vehicle, and you run a very high risk of permanently damaging your engine with the gums and moisture of old gasoline. Even if you use fuel stabilizer, rotate the gas every year into your vehicle to ensure that any bug-out gas will be safe to use.

But what if you live in area where you can’t store fuel- say, in an apartment complex in the city? Take the correct preparations, and your location won’t hinder you.  Those unable to store fuel at their residence are advised to create a cache en route to a BOL.  Try to make it as close to your residence as possible in a wooded or unused plot of land. As you move along your route, the chances increase of having to take a detour, separating you from your fuel.   It’s best to either bury your cache inside of a metal or plastic drum, covered with a tarp or board. It is essential to ensure that water doesn’t enter the fuel can. Be sure to add plenty of extra Stabilizer, too (all stabilizers are gasoline derivations, and the makers assert that an almost unlimited amount can be added to fuel). Make a trip to your cache every 6 months to rotate the fuel, as it will likely deteriorate faster exposed to conditions.  If you have any access to outside property, keep a small portion of fuel on-site. 2.5 gallon galvanized gas cans are durable and good at locking in fumes. They are usually round and can be snugly tucked into a gardening pot or bucket. This will give you at least 20 to 30 miles on most trucks or SUVs (assuming a conservative estimate of 10 mpg), and much more if your BOV is more fuel efficient.  Caches are an excellent method to store fuel for everyone because they build redundancy. If for some unexpected reason you are low on fuel en route to your destination- due to an issue such as theft- then having the security of supply points is invaluable.  Though not essential, storing some fuel at your BOL can be of value if you want to use your vehicle once settled in.

How much fuel is enough? That’s for you to decide. The magic number of gallons comes down to two factors: your vehicle’s gas mileage and the road range you want to have for your vehicle. For instance, I have decided to store 20 gallons of fuel for my car. This is based off my mileage and desired range. We want a range of at least 300 miles, which will get us far away from urban centers. The car gets about 17 MPG mixed driving and 22 MPG on the highway, but I have decided to be extremely conservative in my miles-per-gallon estimation and put it at 15. The extremely conservative mileage estimate gives exactly a 300 mile range assuming that fuel economy goes down the toilet. Estimate your own fuel economy very, very conservatively. If your BOV has a roof-rack, is carrying excess weight, or faces bad conditions like snow or damaged roads, then your efficiency will be dramatically affected. Additionally, stop-and-go traffic takes a heavy toll on efficiency. Although you will make every effort to evade them, there may be areas where roadways congest with vehicles. Always plan for the unexpected and give yourself breathing room.

As a rule, always assume your tank will be empty when an emergency hits.  By being dependent on average gas mileage and gasoline levels, you defy the entire spirit of prepping! Prepare for the worst, not the best!  Even so, try to keep a watchful eye on your gas tank. Always fill it up when the needle hits ¼ full, ensuring that you’ll have a small reserve in addition to the fuel stored. You should also make sure that you have adequate gas tanks to carry in your car if your fuel tank isn’t big enough for your fuel stores- this is only necessary if you choose to purchase a stationary, high-capacity gas tank instead of the traditional red portable ones. Invest in a wide funnel, too- you’d be surprised at how difficult it is to pour a heavy, 40-pound 6 gallon tank into a car.

Before I go on, I would like to briefly discuss alternative fuels for BOVs.  Diesel vehicles are more efficient than gasoline powered ones, and also pull more torque. Since diesel engines run on compression as opposed to gasoline’s combustion, the fuel is less flammable and safer to store. Use dedicated diesel fuel storage additives if you have a diesel BOV. Many preppers have also constructed gasifiers for their vehicles. The SurvivalBlog archives have a gushing trove of articles on alternative fuels, which would ultimately allow you to burn wood or other natural fuels to power a vehicle.  Additionally, diesel cars can run on vegetable oil or biodiesel, which is easy to obtain from restaurants (although I don’t know how many diners will be operating during Armageddon). There is a world of its own of fuels to replace oil-based ones, from trucks that run on used motor oil to hydrogen fuel cell hybrids.  Given the complexity and time consumption associated with these alternative fuels, most preppers- myself included- choose not to use them. But, they are definitely worthy of mention and I encourage everyone willing to dedicate the time and money to give alternative fuels consideration.

If you’re serious about wanting dependable vehicle, consider the other accessories or things you’ll need on the road or at your bug-out location. The first check on the list should be safety. The chances of an accident occurring are increased if we have seen our entire civilization crash and burn. There won’t be a highway patrol or state police to try to prevent or manage accidents. Keep a fire extinguisher in all your vehicles! It may seem unnecessary to extinguish a burning vehicle if TEOTWAWKI has occurred- a lot of us would just walk away, not wanting to loiter- but consider the possibility that a loved one could be inside. Additionally, all BOVs should contain a strong, hammer-like object accessible to the driver. They can be used to smash windows or pick through metal should one become entrapped in an inverted, flooded, or crushed vehicle. If snow is a prevalent weather concern for your region, purchase some tire chains for the rear/front wheels (depending on if the BOV is rear wheel drive, front wheel drive, or four wheel drive).

Stock your BOV with a complete auxiliary supply of motor oil on hand, to either replenish or change oil. Leave the oil drain pan behind.  I’ll hazard to guess that you won’t be concerned about the EPA coming after you for illegal oil disposal if society has collapsed. Be sure to have other fluids along for the ride, too, like power steering fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, and brake lubricants. You’re not going to be able to make these unless your BOL is a chemical refinery.  Perhaps, however, the best way to combat a stoppage of fuel or liquid is by way of a siphon. This will allow you to do a few things. For one, you can take fuel from abandoned vehicles (though hopefully you’ll already have the fuel needed stored).  If you own other cars, you can also transfer the fuel from one tank to the other before you leave.  A siphon, provided it is cleaned, will allow you to take other fluids from abandoned cars, such as motor oil. Remember that most engines on motorboats or propeller-driven planes use octane, too (100 octane aviation gas, or Avgas, is actually quite coveted given its excellent quality). You can take fuel out of abandoned boats or planes or and use it for your vehicle- just double-check and make sure the boat isn’t diesel powered. Fuel is the most restricting component of any engine. If you want to have the option of bugging out by vehicle, you might as well put up a small investment into making sure that vehicle can have fuel.  

I also advise investing in a full size spare tire for a BOV. If your BOV is a truck or SUV, this is likely already covered. But most sedans or crossovers carry only a small “donut” tire, if any at all, that is unstable and lacks the tread needed for a long road trip. Flat tires could be much more likely if there is an excessive amount of debris on roads. You can help reduce the chance of a flat by adding tire sealant to your tires (basically just liquid goo that swishes around and plugs a hole if one develops). Be prepared for a flat tire where you can’t limp to the nearest tire shop for tire repair- this means buying another rim and tire. Because this would only be for a few hundred miles, there’s no requirement to spend a lot of money on a brand new tire- either buy a cheap, used one with at least a quarter of a tread left, or save the one with some tread left next time you get your tires changed. A tire isn’t anything without air, too, so have on hand an air compressor for your BOV (also allowing you to deflate your tires temporarily if you need better traction, and re-fill them later on. )If indeed your vehicle is your only chance of bugging out safely given your environment, I strongly recommend you take precautions against vehicle emergencies, as it will be more of a lifeline to yourself and any companions.

Routes, too, should be altered when bugging out by vehicle in order to maximize the chances that open roads will be available. You might have planned to hike or drive 100 miles up the interstate to your location, but take into consideration the sheer number of people that will be using these routes before their last tank of fuel runs out. That’s why it’s not so much the most direct route, but rather the least populated route when using a BOV. Highways will often be the first to be shut down in a crisis, while more localized roads should survive longer. At all costs, avoid congested and populated areas! This is a rule of thumb that must be followed for any bug-out situation. Modify your routes to make every attempt to circumvent population centers. Be sure to adjust your fuel stores accordingly.

Now, we have at last arrived at the actual execution of the bug-out. The vehicle is packed and ready to go, and awaits your call to bug-out. This is where decision making and luck mate. Depending on when you hit the road, you could either be fighting off masses of unprepared civilians or safely at your BOL.  Your decision should be primarily based on consideration of being first or being last. Keep in mind that if your vehicle is usable, so is everyone else’s. If you live in an urban center, there will be hundreds of thousands, maybe millions, of cars trying to flee. It is best to be the first to get out, once you recognize that the Schumer has hit the fan.  But, if you believe that roads are going to be too clogged (guaranteed after at least an hour or two), then hold out as long as you can in your own residence. Protect your vehicle and bug-out supplies, and hide your fuel. Lay low. You will not have to wait long. Within a few days, nearly all gasoline stores will have been depleted and shipments will be non-existent. Now is when you pull the trigger and turn the ignition. Only a few cars will be on the road by this time, as the majority of car owners will have panicked and used up any remaining gas in their tank (in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, this occurred at a very rapid pace.) NEVER gamble on the chance of getting caught in a mob of cars on a freeway! Clogged roads will quickly turn into a full-on war zone as marauders loot and plunder for fuel, food, and other supplies. When in doubt, wait it out.  

Driving at TEOTWAWKI will be nothing like driving to work. It is imperative that safety is your primary concern. Anyone who has been smart enough to store food and fuel will quickly become a high-profile target on roadways. You should try to travel in groups, in as few vehicles as possible, to allow for easier defense your BOV.  Instruct other occupants to scan the roadside for threats with the firearms you have chosen to take with you. An opened sunroof works great as a tactical turret for a rifleman. The rifleman has a high-up vantage point and 360 degrees of view- it also makes dealing with oncoming cars or pedestrians easier.  I won’t delve into the subject of defensive weapons, but a vehicle demands certain requirements. A high-powered rifle is essential to deter or eliminate incoming threats before they are within striking distance of the vehicle. For mobs, a shotgun loaded with wide-spray shells will provide a wide spray of lead pellets to disperse a surrounding group of people. Having multiple riflemen in the vehicle is invaluable. Think of your BOV as a World War II bomber. The position analogous to a rotating turret (the sunroof or front-seat gunner) should locate potential adversaries while clearing a path ahead. The “turret” is supplemented by riflemen on each side window (like waist gunners on a bomber) to guard your flanks. Finally, a “tail gunner” is responsible for protecting the rear of the vehicle. Be extremely conscious of the feeble protection provided by glass windows, and use the bottom of a door for slightly better ballistic protection in a firefight. If you’re really serious about making a dedicated BOV, then replace side windows with metal sheets, leaving a small hole for a rifle barrel.  You could supplement rear and front windshields with plexiglas.

When in high-threat urban areas, drive as fast as possible as your vehicle may become a target for others who have exhausted their own fuel.  Once on the highway or less populated roads, slow down to increase fuel range. High-speeds above 65 m.p.h. require high RPM rates. Most cars will be able to shift into a low-consumption overdrive at slower speeds. This is why speed limits were reduced during the 1970s gas crisis. Each vehicle’s optimal speed is different. It’s easy to find the niche, though. All you need to do is find the the slowest speed possible for your highest gear, which should be between 40 and 60 mph. Use cruise control if possible to hold a steady speed. Avoid turning on the air conditioning. Running the heater is okay , as it does not sap engine power.  More food for thought when considering your bug out: slower, constant speeds on the highway result in extended range. Driving in panic mode at 80 miles per hour up the highway will dramatically reduce mileage. Keep this in mind if you are ever bugging out by vehicle.  

Cars aren’t the only kinds of BOVs around that you should give thought to.  ATVs, motorcycles, and scooters are excellent when it comes to maneuverability, storage, and fuel consumption. If you happen to live in a very congested environment- like the city, give a smaller vehicle a look. Most have a range of at least a hundred miles to get you out of town on full tank of gas. If you can devise a way to carry more fuel, them more power to you. (It’s worth mentioning that many bikers carry spare fuel in small , 1-2 liter stove fuel bottles, like the red MSR fuel bottles used by backpackers). There are also 1-gallon plastic tanks available designed to slip into a saddle bag- for ATVs, gas cans can be lashed to the front or rear of the ATV. BOVs of this nature can be bought for less than cars, and often give more capabilities to the rider off-road or on narrow streets.

Even though I’m ready to dump 20 gallons of gas into my car and head for the hills if I have the opportunity to, there’s an alternative that doesn’t need any. That’s because it’s powered by good old human strength, fueled by just food, air, and water. A bicycle, in my opinion, is one of the best transportation systems ever devised and is one of the best BOVs a prepper can choose. No need to worry about EMPs, gas mileage, or roadblocks. If a human body can walk there, chances are a bike can ride there. Plus, it costs very little to maintain and the equivalent of a few tanks of gas to buy. I strongly encourage everyone to have a bicycle on hand in the event of an EMP, allowing them a much quicker bug-out while carrying their BOB.  If you can fit them in your gas-powered BOV, then take advantage of it.  I advise taking off the front wheel to make packing easier, or bolting racks to the side of a truck bed or trailer. For those who have a need for speed post-EMP, bikes can offer an often overlooked solution.  I have a friend who purchased a gas engine kit that he installed on his bike, for about $250. A multitude of companies make these kits that can propel a bike many times faster than a rider can (the one I rode got up to about 40 m.p.h., and the ¾ gallon fuel tank allows for about 100 miles before refilling is needed).  

There’s one other thing should most certainly be said for preparing  – these preparations into a bugging-out car go beyond trying to be ready for a complete collapse of society. They should translate into your every-day life, too. It’s always advisable to have certain items in your car so you can be prepared for any everyday emergency that could arise. After all, isn’t that what the culture of survivalism is all about?  Being ready for everything from a flat tire to widespread rioting? You never know when your provisions or knowledge about vehicles could be useful in your daily life. If you’ve ever had to add oil to your car,then you’ve probably been thankful you had some on hand.  If you want to have a car in working order for doomsday, then you may as well prepare for everyday obstacles. And helping others goes a long way! Many of us have been stimulated to prep because we’ve come in contact with serious survivalists, inspiring us to spread survivalism and try to prepare our world better for a catastrophe.

Man and machine have always had an inseparable bond. But come TEOTWAWKI, the bond will be tested, and humanity’s present-day “faithful steed” will fade away. When that day comes, when carburetors no longer breathe and tires no longer turn, there will be only one bug-out-vehicle that’s left. This remarkable, durable, reliable BOV isn’t powered by gasoline, and it doesn’t need four-wheel drive. It can’t be stopped by flat tires, or clogged filters. And it comes standard with a factory-installed fortitude that can withstand any opposition. There’s over 7 billion of these particular BOVs manufactured, but each one is unique, and only a few of them will remain when the dust settles. That bug-out vehicle is yourself. Remember that you run on good old ingenuity, resourcefulness, and willpower. You have a gas tank that seems to always have a little bit left, even when the road starts to disappear and the parts start to rattle. This drive train, this humanity, sets a survivalist miles ahead of even the scrappiest V-8. When the chips are down, it won’t matter who’s got the bigger truck. What will matter is something that has set humans apart from each other since the dawn of days, and something that will separate them at the end of days. That one thing is self-reliance, the cornerstone of survivalism! Bearing those integral principles in mind, I hope that this will invigorate thought on supplementing TEOTWAWKI plans with a vehicle.  Good luck to all of you, and as always, “Prepare for the worst, hope for the best!”



Letter Re: Finding Virtue in Potatoes

Mr. Rawles,
Regarding the letter Finding Virtue in Potatoes, by Anatoly, after reading the book, One Second After by W. R. Forstchen, in which the State of Florida sustains 100% casualties, with the inability to grow sustainable food as a major cause, I began researching viable crops to prevent such a catastrophe.

After talking to locals, Ag Agents, and gardeners, the most recommended staple crops for Florida were corn, potatoes, and Seminole Pumpkins, in addition to the regular garden crops. But, it was also recommended to store as much wheat as possible, now, while the opportunity is there.

Historically, corn has sustained the populations of Florida over the centuries. A lot of corn is produced commercially and just about every garden you see has at least one row of corn in it. However, given the huge population increases since the 1960s and the fact the corn production uses a lot of mechanization and fuel, it may not sustain the population as in past years. Most folks that grow a row or two of corn admit that it wouldn’t sustain them for very long. As for back yard production, I have tried to grow corn using the square foot gardening methodology, but have yet to harvest any. That methodology seems to be susceptible to thunderstorms and tropical storms, which knock the corn flat, but, I have high hopes.

Potatoes are grown commercially in the State of Florida, but back yard production is what has the potential to make the state sustainable. This article, Grow 100 lbs. Of Potatoes In 4 Square Feet: {How To},http://tipnut.com/grow-potatoes/, describes how to grow enough food to sustain a person for a whole year in a small space. With most of the population living in urban and suburban areas, the ability to produce 100 pounds of potatoes in a 4×4 space, four times a year, is very important. I do know of at least three locals that have done this, but it takes dedication and diligence. The local Ag Agents could be more help, but they seem to concentrate on the commercial production of potatoes. I used to eat potatoes with every meal, but now only eat them about three or four times a week, as recommended. However, if I had to, I could go back to eating them every day, I miss them.

A Master Gardener in Tallahassee, recommended the Seminole Pumpkin, which was named after the Seminole Indians. The Seminoles were able to get the pumpkins to grow in trees, which enabled them to hide their villages from U.S. Army scouts and patrols during the Seminole Wars, and other Indian tribes before that. The pumpkins are climbers, have a high nutritional value, and will keep for up to a year after harvesting, even in Florida’s harsh environment. There are two kinds of pumpkins, a green striped and a tan, but I am not sure what the difference is.

As stated before in SurvivalBlog, this concept of storing seeds to plant if the need arises is not viable. There are a lot of issues that need to be worked out beforehand, so it is best to start now and gather the knowledge needed for growing sustainable crops.



Letter Re: A Home Purchasing Guide For Rookies

Mr. Rawles,
In response to the article entitled A Home Purchasing Guide For Rookies, I feel compelled to set the record straight.  Before doing so, I want to thank you for your factual comments at the end of his letter.

The purpose of my response is to ensure that Survival Blog readers get factual information that they can use in their decision making process.  The author of the article made some unfair and sweeping generalizations about Real Estate professionals in general.  Hopefully he will read and learn from the recent posts about logic and decision making.  Here is an outline of sorts:

  1. Always get pre-approved for a loan prior to looking at properties – if not using all cash.
    1. This ensures that you can make immediate offers when you find the right property.
    2. Not doing so can lead to delays in your offer going out or being accepted and the property may go under contract during the delay.
    3. A good listing agent will insist that all offers are  submitted with a minimum of a pre-approval letter – from the loan officer at the buyers lender, proof of funds – usually bank statements showing seasoned liquid funds that will cover the down payment, and a copy of the good faith deposit – a check that will be deposited into escrow or held by one of the brokers involved in the transaction.
    4. Shop around for your loan – The way you do this is by comparing the APR offered from each lender, not the advertised rate.  The APR includes all of the lenders fees and costs that are passed on to you.
    5. Conventional wisdom says that a 30 year fixed loan is the best loan to get.  While this makes sense in a lot of situations, there are situations where a 15 fixed year loan makes more sense.  There are even situations where a 3, 5 7 or 10 year ARM make sense.  For example, will you sell and move again within 3, 5, 7 or 10 years?  If so, it may make sense to take the lower rate.  Of course, if you are moving to the American Redoubt, you  probably want to go with the fixed rate loan or cash.  As JWR says, “you will not be coming back.”
    6. A good agent will be able to give you a list of lenders that they trust and have good reputations and with loan programs that fit your situation.
    7. You don’t have to put 20% down to purchase a property!  This is one of the biggest myths I hear.  It is probably what your parents and grandparents had to do, but it is no longer true today.  In fact, a lot of people are using FHA loans which require only 3.5% down.  A lot will depend upon prices in the area you intend to buy in, your cash reserves, and your financial strategy.  This can be a huge help for someone buying their first home, or for someone who previously lost their property to foreclosure or sold it short due to a true hardship (usually financial).
  2. Every market is different.
    1. Some locales are actually seeing sellers markets right now.  Here in the San Francisco Bay area we are experiencing a red hot sellers market.
    2. Some locales are still seeing buyers markets.
    3. Make sure you know what kind of market you are in as it will impact how you negotiate and the terms and amount you offer.
    4. Your agent should be able to provide you with data that shows exactly what kind of market you are in and explain why.
    5. Your agent should also prepare you for what you will need to do to purchase or sell in that particular market.
    6. The bottom line is that an assessment of what kind of market you are in can be done based on data, not someone’s word.
  3. Your agent matters!
    1. You get what you pay for on the selling side – Experience, Negotiating Skills, Advocacy, someone who can tell you honestly what you need to do to get top dollar for your property.  It is their job to – protect your interests, get top dollar for your property in the least amount of time with minimal disruption to your life while doing so.
    2. You get what you pay for on the buying side – many buyers agents are newer agents – this is not necessarily a bad thing.  Ask to meet their support system – team leader, manager, Broker, etc.  You will be working indirectly with those folks through your agent.  Some are very experienced agents.  The buyers agents job is to know the inventory that is available, know what your wants, needs and price range are, to preview properties for you before showing them to you, and to get the best price and terms for you. 
    3. In general, the most experienced agents usually handle listings as it is a more efficient use of their time and requires more skill than showing property and making offers.  The newer agents typically handle buyers for the more experienced agents, and are compensated less, but are mentored by the more experienced agents.  Then there are those that do both and do a commendable job.
    4. All agents are not created equal – there are two levels of agents, Brokers and Salespersons.  Both are licensed to list and sell real estate, but the experience, education and level of accountability for a Broker are much higher.  Brokers can hire and supervise sales agents, not the other way around because of the education, experience and level of accountability required to become a broker.
    5. Agents are people – some are good people, some are not.- some are ethical, some are not – some are honest, some are not – some are god fearing, some are not – you get the picture.
    6. Select an agent carefully – Do your research – ask friends and family for their opinions of agents that they have worked with, Hint – the one that you met at church may not be your best bet.  My aunt called me, and told me she wanted to sell her house.  She was having a minor dilemma as she had a good friend at church who was an agent.  I told her to use her friend as her property was slightly out of my area, and I didn’t want her to injure any relationships.  Long story short, their relationship was destroyed anyway as her agent turned out to be very weak and didn’t communicate key dates which lead to delays in closing.   Interview 3 or 4 agents and pick the one that you believe has your best interests at heart.  If you don’t like any of those agents, interview more until you find the one that you are comfortable with.
    7. Beware of discount brokerages!  Use your intellect and common sense.  They are discounting for a reason.  Do your homework before using one of these.  Ask them (and any agent for that matter) for proof of their results.  Again, you get what you pay for.
  4. Laws and what is reasonable and customary change from city to city, county to county, within a county, state to state and within a state.
    1. A good agent will explain to you what these are in the area you are buying or selling in and should be able to show you documentation to support what they are saying.  This information can usually be obtained from a title company.
  5. A good agent understands that they do not sell real estate.  They are a consultant, an advisor and a service provider.  A good agent will admit that trying to sell someone on a property is a fools errand.  The agent doesn’t sell the house, home, property, ranch, farm or what have you.  The house sells the house!  I tell my clients as much. I also tell them that we will both know when a specific property is for them.  I tell them that I will have to remind them of the criteria that they gave me when we did our initial interview, and that this house isn’t a good fit. When  they begin to argue why a particular property is perfect for them, that is the property that is usually for them..  JWR is absolutely correct in that purchasing real estate should be done dispassionately.  My experience both personally and professionally is that most people make the decision to purchase a property emotionally.  Although, there are those that are highly analytical and will stick to their criteria, detach themselves emotionally and make the decision dispassionately.
  6. If you feel like your agent is a used car salesman, fire them.  This isn’t the person you are looking for.  There is a language of sales.  You know what it sounds like.  It makes you bristle when you hear it.  You know when you’re being sold and you know when you are receiving a service.  You should feel like you are receiving a service. 
  7. Knowing that a buyers agents job is to get you the best property for the lowest price and best terms possible, and that the sellers agents job is to get the seller the highest price and the best terms in the time frame the seller wants, you can see that if they do their jobs correctly they will be negotiating with their respective clients best interests in mind,  Using the $100,000 example with a total commission of 5%, the total commission is $5,000.  That gets split 50/50 between the buyers and sellers agents office, so $2500   Each agents office takes a cut, a typical split is 70/30 with each agent getting 70% of their respective offices $2,500.  This works out to $1,750 per agent.  If a buyers agent were to try to talk a buyer into paying $110,000, the agents check would increase to $1,925.  Hardly enough to risk getting a bad reputation over.  In this business, you are truly only as good as your last transaction.  On the other side of the transaction, the sellers agent should list the property at a price that will cause the property to sell in a given market.  If they sell the same property in the example above for $90,000, their check only goes down $175 to $1,575.  In this case they would be doing their client a disservice as well as themselves.  Note that the numbers used are for illustration purposes only and are not typical in most markets.  For example, here our average sales price for the entire office is $400,000 with a 6% commission.
  8. Is there a case when the buyers agent should counsel their client to offer more than list price?  Yes.  Your agent should check comparable sales in the area, and show them to you to help you decide how much and what terms to offer.  If you are in a sellers market where pending sales are a lot higher than the number of unsold properties in inventory, and multiple offers are being placed on properties, you are very likely to have to pay more than list to acquire that property.  Your agent will be doing you a disservice and wasting their time and yours if they don’t show you the data and explain this to you.  Sometimes an agent needs to write a couple of offers for a client to get the client to understand that trying to get a property at a discount in a sellers market is an unworkable strategy.  In a buyers market, the logic is reversed.
  9. Always get at least a general property inspection, a termite inspection and a roof inspection – unless you are a general contractor or know what you are doing  These inspections are done by third parties that can be held legally accountable for missing issues within their area of expertise.  They will also identify areas for additional or further inspection.  In rural areas, you are going to want other inspections, such as septic, possibly well, soil  and others to name a few.  Hint – you can usually get discounted prices for these services if you pay at the time the services are rendered instead of paying through escrow when the transaction closes.
  10. Short sales are currently taking 4 to 6 months to close even for listing agents that routinely perform short sales.
    1. Some short sales move faster, some move slower.
    2. Banks are currently attempting to reduce the time to close short sales through process improvements.
    3. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac are making it easier for banks and investors to process short sales.
    4. In a buyers market, a listing agent that knows what they are doing will usually price the property 10% below market.  This will allow you to get a good deal, but you will have to wait some time to close.
    5. Short sales cost banks less money to close when compared to foreclosures.  This is because by the time a foreclosure closes, the bank has incurred additional holding costs, legal fees, and maintenance fees.  Foreclosed properties may get broken into and vandalized, and can end up costing the bank even more money in repairs.
    6. A bank does not have to agree to a short sale.  Even though a seller may accept a low offer, the bank is going to have an appraisal performed, and if the appraisal does not come in around the offer price, the bank will usually counter or reject the offer.
  11. If you purchase a foreclosed property, keep in mind that a bank has fewer statutory requirements for disclosure than a seller has in a traditional sale or a short sale.
    1. Do your due diligence!  Get inspections.  Talk to neighbors about the property. Neighbors will often have crucial information about the property that may impact your decision to purchase the property.
  12. Negotiating is about getting to a win-win situation.
    1. Negotiations should be planned.  You will need to know going in what you must get out of the negotiation as well as what you believe the other parties position will be and what they will need to get out of the negotiation.
    2. Negotiations are about finding common ground.  The seller wants to sell the property, and the buyer wants to buy the property.  Think about what could cause both parties to believe that they were treated fairly.
    3. Do not approach a negotiation with a scorched earth policy in mind.  If you do, you will ultimately fail. If you don’t believe me, talk to the Israelis and the Palestinians.  If you are moving to a small town or community, remember that people talk.  You do want to fit in don’t you?
    4. Feel free to think out of the box to make the deal work.  Negotiating is not all about price.  Do you have something of value that you can bring to the table to sweeten the deal instead of paying more?  On the other side of the table, would you agree to a lower price if the other party provided something else of value that you want or need?

There is much more that I could write.  However, I find that the topics addressed above are some of the most common topics that I spend time discussing with people when we are considering working together.  Please understand that the real estate transaction sales cycle is complex and presents many challenges financially, legally, ethically and even morally.  The business is one in which I take great pride in, and get much enjoyment from.  Many of my clients become friends after we have worked together.  I find this especially rewarding.

A disclaimer:  I am not a lawyer and as a result do not practice law or give legal advice.  I am not a CPA or financial planner and do not provide financial or tax advice.  If you need these services, please contact the appropriate professional.  I am licensed to sell Real Estate in California.  I am not licensed in any other state. Keep your powder dry! – Derrick D.



Economics and Investing:

Former Hedge Fund Manager Warns Of ‘THE END GAME’ In Terrifying Presentation. (Thanks to Todd M. for the link.)

Also from Todd: What if US gets downgraded again?

B.B. sent this: Debt crisis: a $46 trillion problem comes sweeping in

June 5, 1933: FDR takes United States off gold standard

Items from The Economatrix:

Many Unemployed Facing Early End to Benefits

The Truth About Europe:  There is No Solution

The Global Economy is Sitting on a Volcano.  What Happens Next?

Steve Quayle Alert:  Acceleration of Financial Meltdown Can’t Be Stopped

Zero Hedge: The Real Banking Crisis, Part II

John Galta:  The Collapse is the Easy Part



Odds ‘n Sods:

A good piece by Brandon Smith: The Realities of Choosing Your Survival Retreat Location

   o o o

“The Looting Started Right Away” – At Nigerian DC-10 Crash

   o o o

Another voice from industry, warning of systemic risk: The lights go out: What happens if the grid goes down?

   o o o

Wood Boilers. Woody Chain provides a reality check, for anyone considering buying an outdoor wood-fired home heating boiler.

   o o o

Scratch another country off your list of potential offshore retreat locales: Venezuela bans private gun ownership. This move is just another requisite step for the country’s dictator to consolidate power and to silence any opposition. As usual, only the honest and law-abiding will heed this law, making them vulnerable to both criminals and tyrants. It is sad, seeing a repeat of the same tyrannical progression of China, Cuba, Hungary, and elsewhere.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Don’t you see that the whole aim of Newspeak is to narrow the range of thought? In the end we shall make thoughtcrime literally impossible, because there will be no words in which to express it. Every concept that can ever be needed, will be expressed by exactly one word, with its meaning rigidly defined and all its subsidiary meanings rubbed out and forgotten.” – The character Syme, in 1984 by George Orwell



A Special Note on Simultaneous Blog Article Submissions

On two recent occasions, readers have without my knowledge sent me articles for the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest that they had previously submitted elsewhere. In one of these cases, their article had already been posted. (At the new blog site SurvivingPrepper.com.) Once I became aware of their prior copyright, I quickly removed that article. (On my site, the article was titled “Childbirth at Home, by J.C.”)

I must remind readers that they are bound by the contest rules and should feel constrained by common courtesy: Simultaneous submissions are not accepted! I greatly appreciate you contributing to the collective knowledge at SurvivalBlog, but please respect the copyright ownership of third parties. Thanks!



Pat’s Product Review: M&M M10-762 Rifle

I’m a big fan of AK-47 style rifles. But I must mention that all the AK-47 style rifles presently sold in the US, are not genuine AK-47 assault rifles. Rather, they are semiautomatic versions of the famed Russian AK-47. Properly, an AK-47 is a select-fire (full auto) battle weapon. Still, no matter how I try to educate people on this, even gun shop owners, they still continue to call semi-auto versions an “AK-47.” So, to concede to the new terminology norm, we’ll just call these rifles AK-47s.
 
I still remember the first semi-auto AK-47that I I purchased, it was back in 1987 (if memory serves me correctly.) I then lived in Colorado Springs, Colorado, and a friend and I operated a gun business out of his gas station, as well as selling at gun shows. I purchased a folding stock, Chinese-made AK-47 with a bayonet, three magazines, magazine pouch, cleaning kit and some other neat stuff, for the princely sum of $189. Yes, try and find that same kind of a deal today. While I really liked that gun, ammo hadn’t yet started pouring into the US at affordable prices. So, I soon sold the gun.
 
Today, there is all manner of AK-47s on the market, and to be sure, some are better made than others. And,, there is a good supply of Russian-made 7.62 x 39 ammo available for AKs and SKS rifles. I’d suggest that you “buy it cheap and stack it deep” while you still can. About six years ago, you could buy a case of AK ammo for abut $90. Today, this same ammo will cost you from $210 to $250! Even so, this ammo is still a bargain in my book, so get it before prices go up (again) and certainly before the November elections. (After that, watch ammo dry up and prices soar, once again.)
 
The AK under review today is from M&M, Inc. which also operates under the umbrella of Colorado Gun Sales. They are producing what they call the M10-762. I’ve had my sample for about three three months now, and I really wanted to wring it out, before reporting to SurvivalBlog readers. I’ve written about several AKs in the past, and they were good guns. However, this newest version from M&M Inc is, in my humble opinion, the finest AK-47 you can buy for the money, period!
 
M&M claims that the M10-762 is manufactured out of brand-new high quality parts – everything is newly manufactured to be US Section 922(r) compliant, though the receiver is made in Romania.. Some people have a “problem” with AK receivers made in Romania – take it for what it’s worth, but I don’t put much stock in those complaints. The M10-762 has a brand-new, chrome-lined 16.25″ barrel, with a 1:10 twist rate, with four lands and grooves, with a right-hand twist, if this stuff is important you. The overall length of this gun is 26″ with the fixed stock, and they are coming out with folding stock versions, if you want a more compact carry gun. The rifle weighs-in at 7.3 pounds, but their web site says the gun weighs 6-lbs. I contacted Colorado Gun Sales on this, and they said they were going to correct their web page.
 
The M10-762 takes all standard AK-47 magazines, and the rifle is supplied with one magazine. It has a TAPCO RAZR muzzle brake/flash suppressor on the end of the barrel. The RAZR can also be used as a “compliance” device because of the super-sharp cut to the brake. The pistol grip is outstanding. This rubber covered pistol grip is not only larger than the standard AK pistol grip, but it is perfectly configured to fit the hand if you ask me. If there is a better pistol grip out there for an AK, then I haven’t found it. The stock is USA-made (by TAPCO) and is black synthetic of some sort. The fore end on the M10-762 is an aluminum quad-rail type, firmly attached, so you can mount lasers, lights and red dot optics on it if you choose – and this is a really nice quad-rail, to be sure. My only complaint is that the rail covers that came with the quad-rail are thick and make the foreend feel too thick. A quick call to Brownell’s solves my problem with a set of “ladder” rails – these cover and protect the rails but don’t add any girth. These are a “must have”, in my humble opinion.
 
The front sight is mounted on the gas block, instead of on the end of the barrel. This gives you a slightly shorter sighting radius, but I didn’t find it to be any sort of a handicap in my shooting. The rear sight is an RPK graduated fully adjustable for windage and elevation sight that adjusts all the way up to 1,000 meters. That is a bit of a stretch to be sure, for the 7.62 x 39 round. While the sight is easy to adjust, I found it a little bit bulky for my tastes, and I may replace it with the standard elevation (only) rear sight. (We’ll see.)
 
A TAPCO single-hook trigger is installed in the M10-762, and I think this is the best after-market AK trigger you can have in an AK. The let-off was right at 4 pounds on my sample and it was very smooth, too. A TAPCO AK retaining plate is used to keep the trigger pin and safety pin in place – a much better set-up than the simple bent spring that comes with most AKs these days. The lower receiver is stamped and heat-treated to military specs. No cleaning rod was included, and because of the design of the gun, you can’t slide a cleaning rod under the barrel – no big deal in my book. I suppose a person could adapt some kind of set-up to the M10-762 to install a cleaning rod, if you were determined to have one on your rifle. There is also a quick-detachable scope mount base on the left side of the receiver if you want to mount a scope.
 
Take-down was a piece of cake with the M10-762, not that I expected anything less from an AK-style of rifle. I did think the parts fit together just a little bit better (closer tolerances) on this gun, than many other AKs I’ve owned and used over the years. And, I believe this accounted for the superb accuracy I got out of this gun – with a mixed bag of Russian-made ammo, this gun is capable of shooting 2″ groups all day long, if you do you part. You can’t get much better than that from an AK, as most AKs will shoot in the 4″ – 5″ group size at 100 yards. With US-made AK ammo, you will be able to tighten-up those groups.
 
I had only one failure to fire in more than firing 1,000-rds of ammo. I found an old box of Chinese-made AK ammo, that someone had given me. This ammo hasn’t been imported into the US for about 25 years now – and I have no idea how this lone box of ammo was stored. One round from the box wouldn’t fire – and I tried this round several times – the primer was pierced on the third attempt to fire this round, so it wasn’t the gun – it was a dud round, plain and simple.
 
There wasn’t any sling included in the cardboard box the M10-762 came in – I thought that was a little bit “cheap” on the part of M&M – but you can pick-up an AK/SKS sling for around $5.00 – $6.00 these days – used to be a buck or two, but everything is going up in price.
 
When I first fired the M10-762 sample, the sights were “off” just a little bit. It took a complete turn on the front sight to get the elevation dead-on, and two clicks on the RPK rear sight to get the windage where it needed to be. And, if you own and AK or plan on getting one, you must get an AK front sight adjusting tool. You can use a brass punch and hammer all day long on the front sight if you want to move if for windage, and all you’ll do is mar-up the front sight. Get the tool, as they are only about $6 and it’ll save a lot of headaches.
 
The only thing I didn’t like about the M10-762 were the rubber covers on the quad-rail, as already mentioned. The magazine release was a little bit rough, and it only took me a minute to smooth it out with a Dremel Tool. (Go slowly with any power tools!) An AK that shoots 2″ groups all day long, with Russian-made 7.62 x 39 ammo is a keeper in my book. As much as I love my AR-15 style rifles, and my FAL, if I only had time to grab one rifle and run to the hills with it, or I’d only be allowed to own one rifle (heaven help us, if that ever happens) the M10-762 is “the” gun I’d grab. I will buy a spare firing pin and extractor for this gun – just to have – not that I’ve ever broken one of these parts – but just in-case I ever need them, I’ll have ’em.
 
Now, for me to pick an AK over an AR or my FAL, for an end of the world scenario is saying a lot of a rifle.  I’ve owned a lot of AKs over the years, as well as an untold number of ARs. But the M10-762 is the gun I’d pick if I had to go into the boonies, where maintenance would be difficult, and parts impossible to find.  Yes, you can spend a lot more on an AK, and you can spend less for an AK – but you won’t get a better AK than the M10-762 if you ask me. Full retail is $650 on this gun – I got mine for $599 because it was the first one my local gun shop got in the store. They’ve had several more since then, and they usually sell the same day they get them. When you handle one, you’re going to want it – so take the checkbook or credit card with you, when you check out one of these AKs.



Letter Re: Evaluating Military Surplus Generator Sets Before Bidding at Auction

JWR,
Thanks for the recent post mentioning GovLiquidation.com-listed auctions in response to a reader’s question about concertina wire. While browsing the site, I found lots of generator sets (“gensets“) offered and I am wondering if there are any caveats a buyer should be aware of before purchasing (besides the long drive to retrieve a purchase). Thanks for all you do for the SurvivalBlog community. – G.R. in Texas

JWR Replies: Military surplus (“milsurp“) gensets are generally a bargain. But unfortunately, the days of incredibly cheap milsurp generator auctions is gone. This is because the scrap copper merchants will now be there to run up the bidding. (The large copper windings on the generators are now fairly valuable for scrap. Therefore, even if the genset is not working, there is now a “floor” under the auction prices. The only exception would be if you are lucky enough to go to a lightly-attended “sleeper” auction.

Here are my recommendations:

  • Check the genset’s data plate carefully. This will tell you a lot about its maker, model, specifications, and year of manufacture.
  • Be sure the check the genset’s “Hours” meter before bidding. (If it has one. Most military generators do.)
  • Check the dip stick for the oil color (the oil should look brown, not black!) and for any signs of coolant contamination, which would indicate a leaking head gasket in water-cooled gensets.
  • Depending on the local efficiency of DRMO auction yard, military gensets can come complete with maintenance records typically in a manila folder or in a plastic log book. If you are fortunate and the genset that you plan to bid on has a maintenance log, then read through it thoroughly before bidding.
  • If the genset is trailer-mounted, then be sure to check the condition of the trailer tires. You will also need to buy a military style (pintle and ring) trailer hitch for your pickup’s receiver before you travel to bid on a trailer-mounted genset. Be prepared!
  • If you plan to buy a small skid-mounted generator, then bring a couple of beefy friends with you, and a sturdy loading ramp for your pickup or trailer. OBTW, one great trick is using five or six 3-foot lengths of 1-1/2-inch diameter steel pipe that you can use as rollers. Generators can be quite heavy!
  • If the genset that you buy does not come with a manual, then you should be able to find one in PDF online, or on an inexpensive CD-ROM. These include user-level Field Manuals (FMs), Technical Manuals (TMs), Technical Bulletins (TBs), and Lubrication Orders (LOs).

OBTW, a few of the recent generation of Kubota three-cylinder diesel gensets are now starting to work their way out of service and to military surplus yards. If you can find one of those, then snag it! They are fantastically reliable. They can also burn JP-4 and even biodiesel.



Letter Re: A South Carolinian Seeking Retreat Locale Advice

Mr. Rawles,
 I live in the Upstate area of South Carolina. Actually live in Spartanburg. Here is the info on my area, from Wikipedia:  

“Spartanburg has a municipal population of 37,013 and an urban population of 145,058 at the 2010 census.[4] The Spartanburg Metropolitan Statistical Area, corresponding to Spartanburg County, had a population of 284,307 as of the 2010 census.[4]
Spartanburg is the second-largest city in the greater Greenville-Spartanburg-Anderson Combined Statistical Area which had a population of 1,266,995 at the 2010 census.[4] It is part of a 10-county region of northwestern South Carolina known as “The Upstate,” and is located 98 miles (158 km) northwest of Columbia, 80 miles (130 km) west of Charlotte, and about 190 miles (310 km) northeast of Atlanta.”

We have a ten man team with families, but to my thinking, this area, even out in farming country ( Where our retreat is.) within 15-20 miles, this is still very risky, and personally feel the need to find a place further out, maybe out of state. What is your opinion?  I’d really appreciate any thoughts. No detail needed, just a confirmation or set my mind at ease. Thank you sir.
God bless, – S.F.C.

JWR Replies: There is some good farming country and many good and trustworthy folks where you live.  But the key problems are population density and the distance to urban areas.  There are just too many people to pull through a grid-down collapse without a major die-off.  That die-off would not be peaceful. The sad fact is that the population density problem is true for most of the eastern United States. Lets choose Montana, for comparison.

Compare these statistics:

“The population of South Carolina (31,189 square miles) is 4,679,230.” And “…the greater Greenville-Spartanburg-Anderson Combined Statistical Area which had a population of 1,266,995 at the 2010 census.”

…to these:

“The population of Montana (147,165 square miles) is 989,415.”    And: “Montana is a large state – a trip via interstate [highway] from the far eastern town of Wibaux [Montana] to the western border town of Mullan, [Idaho] is over 700 miles, an estimated 12 hour trip.” [Emphasis added.]

So… Montana is five times the size of South Carolina, but it has less than 1/4th of its population. Here is brief intellectual exercise: What cities would you pass through and where would you end up if you drove 12 hours from Spartanburg at 70 m.p.h. in any given direction? (Well, obviously if you went east it is just 230 miles to the Atlantic Ocean…) But how much population would you pass through in those 12 hours, especially if you headed north, or northeast, or south? Now consider the same exercise, but starting from, say, Cut Bank. Montana. You certainly wouldn’t reach any significant “urban” area for a long, long while. The first good-sized city that you would reach (after two hours of driving 70 m.p.h. without taking a bio break) is Helena. That is the state capitol, but it has only about 28,000 people.

See the Retreat Areas Page for my recommendations. Be sure to take a look at the “Lights of the U.S.” photo maps at Blue Marble. A picture tells a thousand words.

If you must hunker down in the Upstate region of South Carolina, then for a true “worst case” situation be prepared to have no outside contact for two years or longer. Meanwhile, while refugees from the cold northern states will presumably flood the southeastern U.S. while concurrently a nationwide die-off takes place. Living through that will take a lot of stored food and fuel, plenty of teamwork, and castle-like architecture. Furthermore, you would have to be situated on a piece of land with spring water or a shallow well that is well away from any highway or other natural line of drift for looters and refugees.

Granted, the Upstate region is quite good by southeastern US standards. It is certainly much safer than the Atlanta or Raleigh-Durham regions. But that is all relative, as I outlined above. The Upstate region might pull through a deep economic depression just fine, if the power grid stays up. But if the grid goes down for more than a month, then update your will and say your prayers.

If you can, then relocate to The American Redoubt. We have lots of elbow room.In my estimation, fewer people will mean fewer problems.



Letter Re: Details on the Rawles Ranch

Mr. Rawles:
I’ve noticed that you haven’t mentioned many details about where you live, or much about your daily life, like most other blogs do. Just curious. – R.K. in Alabama

JWR Replies: I try not to clutter my blog with daily minutiae. Since SurvivalBlog is intended to be educational, I try to stick to the preparedness issues at hand, as much as possible. That means downplaying politics and minimizing posts with detailed descriptions of what I’m eating, the eccentricities of our pets, my favorite music, and so forth. There are plenty of other blogs out there in the blogosphere for that.

To maintain our family’s privacy, we are forced to be very circumspect. For OPSEC reasons, I never post pictures of my family members, our vehicles, our house, our livestock, or our ranch. In past years, we had some undesirable contacts with stalkers, so we were forced to go “down periscope.” Given the nature of my blog, this heightened privacy posture is a must, for our personal safety. But here is what I can tell you about our lives, in a nutshell:

We live year-round at a ranch west of the Rockies, inside the American Redoubt.

The ranch is less than 100 acres, but it is surrounded by public land. This provides the ultimate “big backyard” for hunting and cutting firewood. To heat our home, we burn mainly Red Fir and Western Larch. (The latter is commonly called Tamarack, although technically it isn’t.) On the ranch and within just a couple of miles of it, there is truly a lifetime supply of both varieties–either dead-fallen or dead-standing.

The ranch is fully fenced and cross-fenced. About half of it is sub-irrigated and provides excellent pasture. We raise dairy cattle and small livestock, we keep poultry, we have dozens of fruit and nut trees, and we have a very large fenced garden with extra-tall posts for our deer fence. The majority of my time is spent writing, editing and ranch chores, but I assist my wife with her dairying, cheese, butter and yogurt making, as well as dehydrating, freezing, and canning the bounty from our land. The majority of my wife’s time is spent homeschooling our kids. We homeschool using the classical model.

Our ranch is nearly 30 miles from the nearest town. That can be inconvenient, at times. The area is quite scenic, but we live at fairly low elevation so we enjoy a reasonably-long growing season. A river passes through the back end of the property.

We have a three year stored food supply that could easily be extended to serve us for much longer when supplemented with butchered livestock, wild game, wild huckleberries, and our garden produce.

We don’t live in a bunker or in any sort of multi-family compound. Nor do we live at the idealized level of self-sufficiency and preparedness that is portrayed in my novels.

We faithfully attend a local Christian church that maintains Reformed distinctives. Our church supports a large number of missionaries. We also independently help support a Christian mission school in rural Zambia.

Two years ago, just a year after the untimely passing of my wife Linda (“The Memsahib“), I married a lovely young outdoorsy widow, who in the blog is called “Avalanche Lily.” She had been widowed for several years, and already had children of her own. Our family is now quite large with children ranging from grade school age to college age. All of our children have been and will continue to be exclusively home schooled through the 12th grade.

We don’t own a television, nor do we want one. We enjoy an eclectic mix of music, primarily via iTunes. We have a nearly a dozen shortwave radios, many of which are transformerless AC-DC All-American Five designs. (International shortwave listening has been one of my passions since I was in junior high school.) One nice thing about our locale is that we are in an electromagnetic quiet zone. This makes for outstanding shortwave and AM DXing.

At the ranch we primarily use MURS band radios for intrusion detection (with a Dakota Alert), our everyday chores, hiking, horseback riding, and hunting. We also have 2 meter, 6 meter, and HF rigs. Several family members are licensed ham radio operators, but you won’t find us in any of the ham callsign databases like QRZ.com.

For our privacy, I selected a Vonage telephone number with a 510 prefix. That is a prefix normally associated with Northern California. That phone prefix often confuses mass media reporters and my consulting clients. (We don’t live in California.)

Also for our privacy, we have our mail forwarded from a post office box in Moyie Springs, Idaho. We don’t live anywhere near there. This address is often a source of confusion. I regularly get e-mails from readers, mentioning that they will be “passing through” Moyie Springs, and saying that they’d like to meet me for lunch or dinner. That would be a very long drive for me!

We do our best to lead a quiet, humble, Christ-centered life. Living in the hinterboonies has its drawbacks, but we wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world. We are never moving back to the suburbs!



Recipe of the Week:

Wiley’s Chuckwagon Pecan Pie Recipe

Here’s a ranch favorite I love to take to potlucks and calf-ropings. No one has a clue that it’s main ingredient is Pinto Beans!

            1 C mashed pinto beans (cooked, unseasoned and well done)
            2 C sugar
            4 eggs
            1/4 lb butter
            2 tbs molasses or dark corn syrup
            2 tsp vanilla
            1/2 tsp salt
 
Cream sugar and butter. Add well beaten eggs, molasses, and salt. Beat in well-mashed beans (that have been cooked, unseasoned and well done.) Pour into an unbaked pie shell. Pecans may be sprinkled on top before baking. Bake at 350 F until firm. It’s easy and delicious!  Happy Trails!

 

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

Howard G. mentioned that there is a great list of Old Cooking Definitions and Temperature Equivalents available at the Preparedness Advice Blog web site.

Do you have a favorite recipe that you have tested extensively? Then please e-mail it to us for posting. Thanks!



Economics and Investing:

Monty Pelerin: Europe Will Trigger U.S.

Frantically spending and monetizing, to delay the collapse: Debt Up $1.59 Trillion Under GOP House—More in 15 Months than First 97 Congresses Combined

Greek Exit From Euro Seen Exposing Deposit-Guaranty Flaws

The end game of global leveraged debt – double-digit percentage point market declines in Europe and Japan and the danger of refinancing debt with longer term debt.

Over at TF Metals Report: Getting Real, Real Fast

‘Beware a rerun of the Great Panic of 2008’: Head of World Bank warns Europe is heading for ‘danger zone’

Items from The Economatrix:

Oil Set For Biggest Monthly Drop in Three Years on Debt Crisis

Jobs Data Points to Recovery Losing Momentum

Gold Poised for Worst Monthly Run in 13 Years on European Crisis

Moody’s Downgrades Nine Danish, Three Finnish Banks and Lenders