Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“But now ye also put off all these; anger, wrath, malice, blasphemy, filthy communication out of your mouth.
Lie not one to another, seeing that ye have put off the old man with his deeds;
And have put on the new man, which is renewed in knowledge after the image of him that created him:
Where there is neither Greek nor Jew, circumcision nor uncircumcision, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free: but Christ is all, and in all.

Put on therefore, as the elect of God, holy and beloved, bowels of mercies, kindness, humbleness of mind, meekness, longsuffering;
Forbearing one another, and forgiving one another, if any man have a quarrel against any: even as Christ forgave you, so also do ye.
And above all these things put on charity, which is the bond of perfectness.
And let the peace of God rule in your hearts, to the which also ye are called in one body; and be ye thankful.
Let the word of Christ dwell in you richly in all wisdom; teaching and admonishing one another in psalms and hymns and spiritual songs, singing with grace in your hearts to the Lord.
And whatsoever ye do in word or deed, do all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God and the Father by him.” – Colossians 3:8-17(KJV)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



How to Deal with Dead Bodies in a Survival Situation, by Tim K.

During a break-down of society you may happen upon a dead body. In a without-rule-of-law situation such would not be unusual. This article will give you a rough outline of what to look for when you examine a dead body. The dead body may be near your camp and you may need to get rid of it pronto. There are several reasons why you might need to closely scrutinize a corpse and document what you see.

You may need to protect yourself from the outbreak of disease. You may need to protect yourself from later accusations of murder once the system rebounds. You may need to know whether a killer is on the loose somewhere near your camp. You may need to know if this is a body which can be safely buried and preserved, or whether the body needs to be burned in order to stop the spread of disease.

If you have a camera available, be sure to take photographs. If you have the means to write, by all means take notes. Put on disposable surgical gloves if available. Use a breath mask if available. Use common sense not to infect yourself. Put on old clothes or strip to the bare essentials if necessary. Obtain soap and bleach and water to clean yourself before you chance touching anything contaminated.

Each death scene is unique, so you must use your intuition. The steps you take may be the only chance this victim has for future justice. Loved ones of the diseased person, if they can, may later thank you for the information you retrieve. You may find evidence that exonerates an innocent person. You may find answers that determine whether your group should break camp and leave the area.

As you write your report it is important to both jot down your general feelings, and to specifically note certain important items. Note the location where the death occurred, because it may be important later for law enforcement purposes regarding jurisdiction. Different state or local authorities get involved in investigations depending on the location where the body was found. Make note of anything that seems unexplained or suspicious, or that may turn the death scene into a crime scene. State in your report whether or not you think the death was accidental.

Note the date and time, and make a record of any identification paperwork you may find, such as a drivers license or an identification card, because they may later be lost. Look for tattoos or identifying marks on the body. Do not overlook the obvious, such as cell phone numbers which must be written down before the battery gives out.

Try to determine the cause of death. Make certain that the person has not just passed out and is still breathing. Mark off the area where the body is located and do not let others contaminate it. Look for any loose hairs or skin under the person’s fingernails that might reveal they defended themselves or have been in a fight. Do not jump to conclusions as to what happened, but rather look at things with an open mind. Your job at this point is to record facts and details, not to come to a firm conclusion of how the person died.

Notice how the dead person is dressed, and record any anomalies. Figure out whether you think the body has been moved. Note whether the body is stiff and rigor mortis has set in. If the body is contorted or looks like it fell in an awkward position, that might mean the person died suddenly. An apparently painful look on the person’s face does not necessarily mean they died in pain.

Note any blood or vomit. Vomit can be strong enough to cause acid burns on the face or the skin. If the body has been dead for several hours, gravity will make the blood drain to the lower parts of the body, so look for tell-tale signs of discoloration. Note whether the eyes are open or shut, and whether the eyes have clouded over. These details may be important to later determine the time of death. Note any odor, discharge, or discoloration.

Take a photograph or make a drawing showing the position of the body before you move it. Only then should the body be positioned face up for examination. Begin without removing the clothing, rather tug and stretch the clothing to take an overview of the various parts of the body. Later an autopsy might be done, but at this point the purpose is to see if there are any general signs pointing to the cause of death.

Note any signs of good or bad hygiene, nearby liquor bottles, hypodermic needle marks, and torn or disheveled clothing. Swelling of the body may be due to retained water. Purple condition of the upper body often points to sudden stoppage of the heart. Record the condition of the hair and teeth. Abnormalities in the eyes such as different sized pupils should be recorded, as should puffiness of the eyes. Blue lips may mean lack of oxygen. Note any blood coming out of the eyes or ears or mouth, and anything else that seems out of the ordinary.

If you push on the skin and it dents instead of springing back, that is a sign of dehydration. Note and record the location of any bruises. Yellow skin points to liver failure. Pale skin may indicate loss of blood. Look for scrapes and lesions on the skin. Skin condition indicates many different things, so anything you find may be important to an expert later.

If there are any people around who know what happened, ask them questions and write down their answers. See if there are any medicine bottles nearby, and ask if anyone knows about any medical documents. Write down anything that indicates this was a natural death, as well as anything that indicates it was an accident, a crime, or foul play. Ask if the dead person complained of chest pain or other pains in the previous few days. Find out if the person over-exerted, for example by hiking much further than normal.

Write down relevant things like snowy or rainy weather, finding the body outdoors, finding the body in or near water, ropes or chains or weapons nearby, signs of a scuffle, etc. If there is an injury try to figure out if it was made by a blunt object such as a baseball bat or a sharp object such as a carpenter’s saw. Look and feel for broken bones, which may or may not poke out through the skin. Look for scrapes and burns, and signs of suicide such as multiple cut marks on wrists.

Lacerations are blunt force injuries which are often confused with cuts. If there is a gunshot wound, look and see if there is also an exit wound where the bullet came out. The types and causes of wounds are so vast that it is important to take photographs or write down descriptions for later reference. Remember that the body will deteriorate, so chances are you will be the only person available to document these facts.

Decide whether you think rule of law soon be reinstated. It may be days, weeks or months before authorities can be summoned. If this is the case, then it is important to take steps now that will help identify the body later. This may include taking a DNA sample with a swab to the inner cheek, taking fingerprints with any ink or dye you can find, taking a blood sample, and taking a hair sample. Do not overlook other things such as keeping cigarette butts, keeping car keys, drawing facial pictures, etc.

Beyond that, look for signs of infection which occurred before death as opposed to deterioration which occurred after death. Old healed scars may be signs of previous surgery, and must be differentiated from recent wounds, but both are important to record. Other cuts or injuries may be indicative of earlier resuscitation attempts by medical personnel.

When rule of law is gone you and your associates may have to decide what to do all by yourselves. For health purposes you cannot afford to let dead bodies deteriorate near your camp or water source. You may have to pick up camp and move on. Or you may need to bleach or burn clothing or other items to be sure to get rid of infection.

Even if you have a fortress supplied with all the amenities, it will do you no good in the long term if there is infectious disease from a rotting body nearby. You may have to make a decision about whether to burn or bury a dead body, or whether to leave an infected area. Timing is key, and it may be better to make the decision sooner rather than later. In your situation take all the known factors into consideration, obtain the advice of others, and then act decisively. The decision will be totally up to you.



Letter Re: Prioritized Prepping

Hi JWR,
In response to Sunshine’s research into gas masks online, I’ve purchased from Approved Gas Masks.com before. They sell many different brands of masks, canisters and other NBC products. The canisters I’ve bought use the standard NATO threads, are sealed and dated. They’re going to set you back a little more than the mil surplus but they’re current production from reputable companies. Hope this helps. – S.M. from Pennsylvania



Economics and Investing:

Stocks are about to plunge, Wells Fargo warns

Marc Faber Warns “The Endgame Is A Total Collapse – But From A Higher Diving Board Now”

Michael Snyder: The Greatest Debt Crisis The World Has Ever Seen Is Coming

Items from The Economatrix:

Pension Disaster Looms Over The Horizon: In 1980, 60 Percent Of Americans Participated In A Pension Program. Today It Is Less Than 10 Percent And The Amount Saved For Retirement Is Startling.

The Percentage Of Americans That Consider Themselves To Be “Lower Class” Is At An All-Time High

Jobless Claims Fall To 7-Year Low, But …





Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“And now, I beseech thee, let the power of my Lord be great, according as thou hast spoken, saying,
The LORD is longsuffering, and of great mercy, forgiving iniquity and transgression, and by no means clearing the guilty, visiting the iniquity of the fathers upon the children unto the third and fourth generation.” – Numbers 14:17-18 (KJV)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Nomads of the Second Great Depression, by A.J. in Texas

For 45 years I was all about the Great American Dream.  A 100 mile per day [round-trip] commute to a six figure pressure cooker job supported an upper middle class lifestyle.  All that changed in 2001 when I was squeezed out of that job during a company transition to second generation children.   Overnight, the new CEO and COO determined I was too traditional and old school for the vision they had for the company going forward even though I had served their father profitably for a decade.   In quick succession I lost the house, the cars and a wife of 20 years because I could no longer ‘support her in the manner to which she had become accustomed.’   Yes, said those very words in the divorce papers which were incidentally served on the date of our 20th anniversary.  Thank God and Greyhound she’s gone.

What followed was what my teenage daughter who opted to live with me dubbed the Baloney Years.   It was an apt description as I re-invented myself from a shiny shoe wearing cubicle slave to a self-employed man.  Things got progressively better as the years passed.  I never re-married or bought another big house during that time period.  I had an expanding Internet business which was very lucrative and required just a few hours per day on my part.  I diversified my holdings with rental property and a car shop where I bought fixer uppers and flipped them.  I was carrying a substantial amount of commercial debt but little to no personal debt.  The cars, motorhome and personal items were paid for and I had no credit card debt. In 2008, the recession wrecked my business plan.  The rental properties were vacant and were sold for no profit or returned to the bank.  The Internet business fell off 80% in the space of two months and the car fixer upper business became unprofitable as well.  At 53 years old I was left with a motorhome, an SUV, some tools, firearms and an empty nest as my daughter had joined the military.  Luckily, this go round, I had a little money saved up and a small income each month from what was left of the Internet business.  It gave me time to assess the situation and choose my next plan of action.

Folks who live year around in recreational vehicles are called fulltimers in RV parlance.   Most, but not all, have given up their traditional sticks and bricks home.   Fulltimers are not to be confused with snowbirds that flee in their motorhomes, fifth wheels and travel trailers southward each fall to escape the cold weather.  However, some fulltimers are snowbirds who use their RV as a means to seek out the best climate year round.  Traditionally fulltimers have been retired folks who chose to travel and enjoy their twilight years.  After 2008 this traditional definition began to change.  I still meet many retired fulltimers who travel from RV park to RV park getting by on retirement income.  More and more these days I see younger folks who are still working but have chosen a recreational vehicle as their home.   Some of these working RVers had a defined plan and chose the lifestyle as a way to escape the 9 to 5 suburban hustle.  Others did it as a last resort.   Many lost houses and jobs and took the last few remaining dollars they had and purchased an RV.  It is better than being homeless and living in a refrigerator box under the overpass.

I truly enjoy living in my recreational vehicle.   It is compact and mostly self-contained.  With the addition of a generator, a battery bank and solar panels I can sleep in my own bed just about anywhere I chose.  I love the freedom, I love the lifestyle with no defined boundaries, I love that I pay no property taxes and don’t have to mow the lawn.  I follow the work from place to place. Sometimes I stay a few days; sometimes a few months. I am a 21st century nomad.

Nomads are as old as history itself.  Genghis Khan and his Mongol horde, Bedouins of the Saharan Desert and Romani Gypsies are nomads.   When the Spanish Conquistadors came to North America they brought horses.  The American Plains Indians acquired some of those horses and their entire lifestyle changed with the mobility the horses afforded.   Much like the Plains Indians, my lifestyle has completely changed with the mobility afforded by an RV but it did not happen overnight.   Since I was the victim of two harsh economic calamities this third chapter in my life was initiated only after long consideration and considerable research.

The Third Chapter

You don’t have to be a smart man to realize we live in unsettled times.   I have read Thomas More, John Locke, The Federalist Papers and Thomas Jefferson.   I read the current offerings of Mark R. Levin, James Howard Kunstler, Mac Slavo and Captain Rawles. At a point in my research I realized the ‘American Dream’ had been little more than carefully prepared and artfully packaged slavery.    Brainwashed by the American School System from kindergarten onward, we were told that if you work hard and obey the rules that you will be a success.  Success meant debt for most of us.  Bigger houses in nicer neighborhoods, new cars every few years, swimming pools, country club memberships — that was success as we Baby Boomers were taught.   Behind the scenes, in the offices of powerful people, we were counted among the good minions.  Our task was to fill the coffers of Big Business and Big Government and we did an admirable job. People in debt have to go to work every day to service their debt.   30 year mortgages and cars that cost $50 grand just about insure that you will be in debt until the day that you die.   Our economy is based on ever expanding spending and if we don’t spend more money each successive year the economy falters.   Well, I worked hard and obeyed the rules and had the rug brutally jerked out from under me – twice.  I resolved I would never again be a wage slave.   After all, nobody came to my rescue and bailed me out!

Near the top of every preparedness list I see is a requirement for a bug out location.  Some acreage in a rural location with everything available that you will need when the SHTF seems to be de rigueur.    I commend the folks that appear to have attained the optimal bug out homestead and I wish I was one of them.  I just don’t see it happening for most of the rank and file people like me.

  • Buying property usually means assuming more debt.  Most of the people I know do not have the financial ability to lay out considerable quantities of cash to purchase a property outright.   Even during the Great Depression, banks foreclosed and the repo man came to get your vehicles.
  • I grew up on a rural farm.  You just don’t go to Tractor Supply, the John Deere House and the local library and become a farmer or a rancher.  It takes years to acquire the equipment and the knowledge to use it.

One of my paying jobs during this Third Chapter was working for an excavation company that specialized in rural retreats for rich folks.   These city fellas had worked most of their lives with the dream of retiring   to a country estate where they could ‘get back to the land’.   I saw the pattern repeat itself many times over during my tenure with this company.   A 50 something executive from the city buys a few hundred acres of unimproved land. We roll in with bulldozers and backhoes and excavators and clear the brush, build roads, dig fishing lakes and clear a spot for their ranch house.   The executive buys a Ford King Ranch truck, a John Deere tractor, a Polaris UTV and a chain saw.  Seems like reality sets in about the second year.  The executive realizes he does not have the skill set required to pull this off and he also does not have the time left to learn it all.  He also is forced to acknowledge the hard reality of physical limitations that advancing age brings you.   I know it was frustrating for the executive.  It was heartbreaking to watch it unfold time after time.

I watched the television show Doomsday Preppers with interest.   Each and every one of those folks was convinced they knew the future and each were preparing for a specific calamity.  EMP, economic collapse, nuclear war and earthquakes –each and every one of them had it pegged unequivocally.  I just wish I was that prescient.    This Third Chapter of my life embraces the Nomadic lifestyle and my best efforts to prepare for an uncertain future.  I honestly believe we will see rising inflation and reduced services from the public sector.   Do the math and its’ a pretty simple conclusion.  Our elected officials are going to do nothing to stem the rising tide of debt and at some point the bills are going to come due.  You can only kick the can down the road so far. Things we take for granted like police services, fire protection, mail, utilities and road maintenance are likely to be less evident the farther you get from major Metro areas in my future scenario.   I have no intention of ever being in close proximity to a major Metro area ever again so my plans address a lifestyle that does not include these elements available at current levels.   I cannot depend on Social Security income in five years when I become eligible which is another consideration.

The RV
is not a really, really small apartment—not even close.  It took me over a year to understand all the systems and to become reasonably proficient at repairing or replacing systems that failed.   The same elements that make an RV livable in an off the grid environment make it complicated.  RVs have dual power systems which are 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC.   They also utilize propane for heating, cooking and refrigeration.  Some appliances like the hot water heater and refrigerator may have both electricity and propane as dual power sources.   A converter/charger applies the power to the on board 12 volt batteries and the 120 volt accessories.  My wife and I recently upgraded from our 20 year old diesel coach to a large travel trailer that is towable behind one of the SUVs.   Maintaining an increasingly problematic older RV and another power train simply did not make sense.  The 2010 model we bought (for cash) was immediately upgraded with the following components:

  • Addition of second 12 volt deep cycle battery
  • 200 watt solar panel, controller and charger to charge the batteries
  • 4,000 watt inverter
  • Progressive Industries Energy Management System (EMS) to monitor and protect  onboard appliances from erratic power sources
  • Double canister water filter with ultra violet light sterilization for drinking water
  • Honda EU3000i portable generator
  • Additional 120 volt AC small refrigerator to supplement the RV fridge
  • Wilson SOHO wireless cell signal amplifier  boosts a weak Internet air card signal AND our cell phone signal in rural areas
  • Flojet macerator pump which allows me to pump raw sewage  via a ¾” garden hose up to 200’ to a septic cleanout, residential toilet, porta-john or external  portable septic tank

These additions to the existing travel trailer components have allowed us to be independent of the grid if we choose to do so.  The cool thing is we still have all the comforts of home including Internet and HD satellite television.

Our Environment and Prepping
go hand in hand. There are myriad ways to make a dollar while living in an RV.   Some RVers work for an Amazon Distribution Center during the Christmas rush.  Amazon pays them well and provides free spots to park the RV.  Other folks go to the Dakotas and harvest sugar beets.  Some follow the State Fair circuit or NASCAR.  Others work virtually over the Internet.   The opportunities are endless.

For the last three years my wife and I have been Level II Security Guards in the North and South Texas oil fields.  We have been on site at construction sites, pipeline construction, electrical transmission line construction and active drilling sites.  The work has been 100% off grid.  The company we work for supplies water, septic system and a large diesel generator.   We have no lot rent to pay or utility bills and it is a great environment to polish our prepping skills.  Why?  We are self-sufficient in many respects.  We are off grid, we have a limited water supply that must be rationed and treated to be potable. We are miles from the closest grocery store and infrequent trips to town are carefully planned for maximum benefit.  We are in a fringe area for communications and rely on additional equipment to provide communication access to the outside world.  Police presence here is rare and we rely on our own resources to settle disputes and minor altercations.   We live in a harsh, remote environment for weeks on end and both my wife and I have adopted a survivalist mindset to get by day to day.   The difference in the way we deal with everyday life is especially noticeable when we retreat back into normal civilization for some time off with friends and family.

Water
is a major consideration in any survival plan.  Our water, as delivered, originates at a potable source but the handling between origin and destination is questionable and I do not trust it.   Our water source is a 300 gallon translucent plastic tote.  I have installed a three-canister water filter system on the outside of the tote with a bypass valve on the third canister and a 12 volt pump.  I check every water delivery with a dissolved solids meter.  If the meter reads high, I place a 5 micron sediment filter into the first canister and a 1 micron sediment filter in the second canister.  I bypass the third canister for this operation.  I place the outlet hose into the top of the tank and recirculate the water through the canister filters for several hours until the dissolved solids meter shows an acceptable reading.   The outside tote is treated with chlorine on a routine basis to prevent algae growth and I monitor the chlorine levels with a pool test kit.  I wish we had a black potable water tank as we had at previous locations.  Algae growth in a black tank is negligible.

I pump the water from the tote into our on board 50 gallon water tank with the 12 volt pump.  This water is reasonably pure because I filter it through the three-filter outside system as it is pumped aboard.   In this operation, the first canister contains a 1 micron sediment filter, the second canister contains a granular carbon resin 1 micron filter and the third filter is a 1 micron carbon block filter.  I only use NSF certified filters and keep a one year supply of spare filters on hand.  I also have several spare 12 volt pumps that I picked up used on eBay.  The water from the onboard tank is used for washing, showers and flushing the toilet.   Potable water for cooking, drinking and coffee making is delivered via a separate spigot at the kitchen sink.   This spigot is connected to a 2 canister system under the sink.  The first canister has a 0.5 micron spun polyester sediment filter and the second canister contains a 1 micron carbon block filter and the ultra violet light.   The company that manufactured this system supplies the same system to our US Military for use overseas.

Electricity
in some form is necessary for our survival especially during the heat of a South Texas summer.  Air conditioning is not a luxury; it is a necessity if you are living inside a tin can.  Our prime source of electricity is a 4 cylinder diesel generator with an output of 20 kW.  It provides ample electricity for our needs.   Secondary electrical backup is our small Honda EU3000i gasoline generator.  It is quiet and extremely fuel efficient.  At 3 kW it will power every appliance on the travel trailer including one air conditioner unit.  Some judicious power management is called for with this power source.  For example, it will not power the AC and the coffee pot simultaneously.    Our third power source is the 12 volt battery bank, solar panels and inverter.   RVs use 12 volt power for lighting, water pumps, water heater, furnace and refrigerator circuit boards.  The inverter will run the microwave, coffee pot, television and DISH receiver and the various laptop and cell phone chargers.  The inverter will not run the air conditioning unit because it quickly depletes the battery bank.

Food Preparation
may not sound like a big concern for most but it is for us.  The RV has a microwave, propane cook top and propane oven that my wife uses to full advantage.  However, when the summer heat is 100+ for days on end,  using the cook top or oven heats up the inside of the RV for hours afterward.  We enjoy cooking outside during the summer months.  We have a small propane grill, a propane smoker that will also serve as an outside oven and a Volcano stove that is tri-fuel.  It has a removable propane burner and it will also burn charcoal briquettes or wood.  We have a small selection of Lodge cast iron cookware for use outside and we are gradually learning to use them as time goes by.
Even with two refrigerators, we do not have the refrigeration capacity you would find in a residential refrigerator.  My wife manages the refrigerated space admirably with her infrequent stocking trips to the grocery store.  A large cooler is a standard item in her SUV because of the length of the trip.  She will fill it at the store and then ice it down thoroughly.   What doesn’t fit in the two refrigerators is left in the ice filled cooler as long as possible.  Through practice, she has learned how many items she can purchase with no resulting spoilage.

I wish we could have a normal garden.  In years past both of us raised a garden on a regular basis.  Being mobile as we are a garden is out of the question currently.  We have laid in a good supply of seeds and we are bucket gardening.  2.5 and 5 gallon buckets are transportable and work well as garden containers.  I am glad we started this project because our gardening skills are much rustier than I thought after a decade or more of inactivity.   Our current project is a winter salsa garden which consists of tomatoes, peppers, onions and cilantro.  One of the blessings of South Texas is you can garden for almost eleven months out of the year.

Storage space
is a huge limiting factor in an RV.  RV manufacturers utilize every square inch available in most cases but it is never enough.   My large SUV only has the front row of seats available.  The second and third row have been folded down or removed to make room for cargo and storage. An air compressor, tool boxes and footlockers full of maintenance items fill the SUV, and it is still not enough space .  As you have read my description above you can tell we are dependent for the most part on fossil fuel.  Diesel, gasoline and propane figure prominently in our plan.  We purchased a small enclosed trailer that we use as our ‘nurse trailer’ and my wife pulls it behind her SUV when we move.  It stores several items that are rarely used and our supply of fuel.   I like propane because it is very portable and has an unlimited shelf life.  At one point in the past we had a 6.6 kW propane generator that has since been replaced.  I found it to be very noisy and fuel hungry.  Filling a propane tank will never be as easy as filling up a 5 gallon can of diesel or gas.  I DO like the propane for heating and cooking as it is very efficient when applied in that manner.  When it comes to diesel and gasoline storage I had a hard time deciding exactly how to store it.  I considered 50 gallon fuel drums or auxiliary fuel tanks which would be stored in the nurse trailer.  Ultimately, I decided the price of the tanks or barrels and the need for an additional 12 volt pump and nozzle to transfer the fuel was unwarranted, pricey and cumbersome.   A 55 gallon of fuel weighs around 400 lbs!  We decided instead to use 5 gallon NATO surplus jerry cans.  They store in an economical fashion, they are tough and they do not leak.  Current reserves of fuel are five 30lb propane tanks, two 40lb propane tanks, 50 gallons of diesel and 75 gallons of gasoline.   The diesel and gasoline are treated with PRI preservatives.  Both SUVs are also kept full of fuel at all times.

The nurse trailer is also the home for 20 gallons of potable water in 5 gallon Reliance Aquatainers and a 65 gallon water tank that is only filled in emergencies.
I store a spare set of 12 volt vehicle and trailer batteries in the nurse trailer.  They are maintained with a Battery Tender trickle charger that also has temperature compensation.   The 2 SUVs are used infrequently and sometimes 3 weeks will pass without them being driven.   They are kept on a Battery Tender as well.

I have an aversion to being broken down on the side of the road.  Neither of our SUVs are new; both of them are on the other side of 150k miles.  They are maintained meticulously as far as service, maintenance, tires and brakes.  For the main SUV I also have spare radiator hoses, serpentine belt, alternator and starter motor.   All of these items are easily replaceable in the field.

Stockpiling
supplies in a recreational vehicle is near impossible due to space limitations.  We try to keep a ready reserve [of staple foods] onboard which loosely equals about a one month supply.  While I see or future economy going through a severe long term decline I do not think we will see a true SHTF situation.  Hope for the best. Prepare for the worst.   We do have a bug out location in North Texas which is a still active family farm.  I have attempted to tailor our strategic reserve supplies to include this scenario.   We move around South Texas quite a bit so storing supplies in an offsite location would be hit or miss at best.  With my luck, I would rent a storage room close by and then the next week we would take an assignment 300 miles away.  Texas is a big place you know!

My wife is required to go to a doctor for a checkup every two months and for years she has used the same doctor north of San Antonio.   Two years ago, we rented a small climate controlled storage in that small town.  We collect a variety of supplies in the two months prior to her appointment and she deposits them in the climate controlled storage.   In two years we have accumulated quite an inventory of food and other items.

I entered our marriage 3+ years ago with a dry storage unit in South Dallas.  Since it is not climate controlled, we are limited on what can be stored at that location.  Currently it holds tools, tires, a small cargo trailer and a 7.5kw diesel generator.  We also store a small supply of potable water and food there.  It is an all day trip to go up there and back. The North Texas bug out  location is over 400 miles from our present location.  As the storage units fill, we leapfrog the excess to the bug out location.

Our plan is to draw on the supplies in each storage unit should the need arise.  If we come down to a true SHTF scenario and anarchy across the land is on the horizon, both storage units are on our direct route to the North Texas location.   Even if we had to get out of Dodge in one of the SUVs with nothing more than the SUV  contained and the clothes on our backs we could easily resupply and continue our trip north with a stop at either or both storage units.

Fortress RV
we ain’t.   Most likely you could shoot through one of our walls with a pellet gun.  I would like nothing better than to have 500 acres of impenetrable castle somewhere up in the hinterlands of the Texas Hill Country.  Maybe if I win the Powerball [lottery] and have another ten years to build the castle complex… Like most everyone else my wife and I have a set of circumstances called our life that we have to work with.  Our situation is far from optimal but we have to work within the framework we have to get by and prepare for the tough times ahead.

JWR’s Comments: Nomadism is a fairly tenable during a “grid-up” depression, where law enforcement would still functional. But in a grid-down world, frequent travel will simply be an invitation encountering ambush after ambush, and your life expectancy will plummet. Don’t plan on taking those sorts of risks. My advice for The Crunch: Have a planned destination, get there pronto, and hunker down!



Two Letters Re: Prioritized Prepping

Jim:
I couldn’t agree more with the article written by T.Z. regarding prioritized prepping. Many of us lack the needed organization and discipline to distribute our prepping budget evenly between the different survival categories and instead succumb to impulse buys – more ammo, more guns, more dried food, more camping gear. While stocking up on non-perishable supplies that will always have some use may seem like a good idea, what good are 50,000 rounds of ammo if your only water filter just broke, or you ran out of oil for your two-stroke chain saw?

My way of managing these impulse buys is with a plan – a comprehensive list of all gear and supplies needed for various situations, used to ensure every critical survival category is somewhat covered. I document any item me and my family consume on regular basis, as well as needed items for bug-in, bug-out and loss of civilization amenities may require. Following the familiar principals of redundancy I am constantly updating a prioritized list of supplies and equipment that I already acquired and items to be acquired. The lists, or rather “lists” document several things:

Inventory of perishable items – non-long-term food supplies (content of my pantry mostly), toiletries and household items, with expiration dates of items where applicable – this list is also synchronized with my mobile device and serves as a useful shopping list when visiting Wal-Mart/costco and the likes. This is the list hardest to keep updated but an hour a month usually keeps it in decent shape.

Comprehensive gear and equipment list – non-perishable items, every equipment and supply purchase in various categories, covering tools, shelter, water treatment and storage, fire making, portable cooking, communication and many others. This list helps with packing for various scenarios, as well as a reminder of what you already bought (how many emergency candles do I have ? Oh, I forgot I bought a case of 24 100-hour candles on sale last year).

Medical supplies – earned its own list with both non-perishable gear and medication with expiration dates that needs to be updated twice a year to reflect things I used, expired and replenished.

To do list – no explanation needed – various prepping projects.

To buy list – divided to many sections: there’s the affordable stuff to buy next time I am at the store – by store – home depot, Wal-Mart etc. Then there’s a list of big purchases to make when the time is right – yeah, a dirt bike may be a good idea (or a radiation meter, or a chest freezer, or a wood stove) but can’t buy them next time I am at the store. I also have a list of stuff to buy if I feel a TEOTWAWKI event is coming. We may get no warning, but if there was a small window of time to get some things done and buy a few special items I would never buy otherwise – I want to have a list telling me exactly what to do and buy and not start thinking about it for the first time (propane generator? Bio-fuel gear and truck? 6 months’ supply of frozen meats? A greenhouse? That great solar system with a few expensive 6V batteries)

Long-term food supplies – Anything I store that I do not plan to use in the next few years has to be inventoried well. Stocking a 1000 lb of rice with 1 lb of salt is not useful. My long term food store has to be balanced to provide the nutrition needed and fight menu fatigue. Inventory management is crucial and a lot of words were written about it.
And yes, I have my guns and ammo list as well. Have to be able to protect what I have.

My whole prepping activity is centered around these lists. If I read the excellent survivalblog.com web site or others, I update my lists with new ideas of what to buy or do. I go over the lists often and look for ways to improve my prepping, looking for weaknesses, lack of redundancies, expiration of items.
There are so many overlooked items that can be great in a SHTF situation, or useful in other cases, that you should absolutely stock up on if you have the room to store them. The hardware store is an endless source of such preps. Nails and fastening devices were mentioned – how about PVC Pipes? PVC pipes are cheap, if stored in the shade last many years, and have so many uses – they can be used to route water from rain catchment or wells, but also for construction – you can build a greenhouse with PVC pipes, duct tape and plastic sheeting. Various means of water storage and filtration are often overlooked and are essential. Dental treatment kits. Disposable and work gloves. Automotive and 2-stroke oil. Various sizes or garbage bags. Lots of batteries and chargers. Pest and insect control (you can’t call the rat catcher any more). Fuel stabilizer !!! (probably one of the most valuable items post-apocalypse). Siphon tools.

To summarize – balance your preps among categories so you don’t end up having to barter at a disadvantage to get essential supplies you neglected to procure in advance. – Regards From H.P.
 

Hi JWR,
A few comments on the thought provoking article Prioritized Prepping by Z.T. I did a bunch of research on gas mask filters a few months back after realizing the filters that came with my ‘brand new in box’ Israeli masks found at a thrift store were woefully expired. Masks in perfect shape, probably sat boxed in someone’s attic for 25 years. Filters generally have a shelf life of 10-15 years provided they are sealed and kept free from moisture. A good quality filter is something worth investing in, not saving a few bucks because it “might” work. An expired filter might help, it might not. Make sure your filter is rated for NBC protection, this covers the whole gamut of potential toxins. These filters protect you from all known biological agents in addition to chemicals like sarin and other nerve gases, mustard gas, cyanogen, arsine, phosgene plus many organic and inorganic gases/vapors and inorganic acids.

I spent hours researching the purchase of filters online and let me warn you that the majority of filters sold “brand new” on Amazon are surplus expired or have no date stamped on them. This was repeated over and over in the reviews posted by people who bought them, always read product reviews before you buy! Also, a lot of the sellers aren’t shipping what they advertise on Amazon. I went beyond Amazon and really couldn’t find a reputable vendor selling new, sealed filters with a clear expiration date or date of manufacture. I gave up for the time being and would love to see some recommended sources posted on SurvivalBlog. Thanks, – Sunshine in New Mexico



Economics and Investing:

G.G. flagged this: The typical American family makes less than it did in 1989

10 worst economies in the world. (A hat tip to H.L. for the link.)

Median Household Income Has Fallen For Five Years In A Row

Items from The Economatrix:

Prepare For Tough Times If Your Job Has Anything To Do With Real Estate Or Mortgages

United States Sets Another Food Stamp Record: Households On Food Stamps At New Peak And More Americans Live In Poverty Compared To The Entire Population Of Spain

A Measurement Of Our Impoverishment



Odds ‘n Sods:

Rick B. recommended: Crop Rotation in the Home Garden

   o o o

I knew that Bobcats were versatile little tractors, but I had no idea that they were this agile. (Thanks to Chester for the link.)

   o o o

Three Important Lessons from a Canadian Border Crossing

   o o o

Update on the big September Mountain House sales: The folks at Safecastle report: ” 27% of the Mountain House canned varieties are now backordered.
 
Mountain House foods now on backorder till October: Pilot Crackers, New Orleans Rice with Shrimp, Mexican Style Rice & Chicken, Uncooked Eggs, Vegetable Stew, Ground Beef, Green Beans, Peas, Corn, Cottage Cheese, Chicken Stew.
 
The good news: Sweet & Sour Pork and Breakfast Skillet are back in stock and shipping out again.”

Here is a summary of the five September sales on Mountain House foods in #10 cans. They are all offering deep discounts and most of them are offering free shipping:





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



My View on Self Defense for Women, by Sheri W.

I wish that all women had some self-defense training.  But, most don’t, even among preppers.  Worse yet, most women I know are too embarrassed to learn anything about fighting.  They don’t know where to learn or maybe don’t want to appear foolish.  And the misinformation out there about how a woman should defend herself is often worse than useless – it’s actually harmful.  Most men teach what works for men and often, those techniques don’t work very well for women.  This article is intended for those women who have little or no experience with self-defense.  I won’t kid you, reading something to learn to defend yourself is not the way to learn.  I hope no woman ever has to defend herself.  But, if your man is down, or you’re on your own, even if you aren’t terrifically effective with these techniques, some of this information could make the difference even if all you do is read it.  I’m a woman and this is what I believe works for women.

So I want to recommend this exercise: sit with your butt on your heels, on the floor about two feet from your opponent, who is sitting the same way.  You should be facing each other.  Put a small cloth, like a bar towel or washcloth on the floor between you.  Here’s the game; you are trying to grab the cloth and quickly roll away from your opponent before he (or she) can reach out and touch you anywhere he can reach.  Neither of you can touch the other unless one of you is holding the cloth.  Your opponent is trying to do the same thing, in which case you’re trying to reach out and touch him before he can roll away with the cloth.  This exercise can really help you in several ways.  It teaches you what your reaction time is and what other people’s reaction time is.  It teaches you to feint – fake a grab that you won’t complete in order to keep your opponent off balance.  And, it teaches you to read your opponent’s body language, and how your opponent “telegraphs” what they’re about to do. 

The reason I recommend that exercise is that most women I’ve known don’t have a lot of confidence in their ability to defend themselves.  And, for good reason – because most women are at a big disadvantage in a fight with a man.  But, most women have equal or better reaction time compared to most men.  Even if a male opponent has studied martial arts, women often can win at this exercise.  So, it’s a confidence builder for women in an area they can excel.  And, when your life might be on the line, you need to know what your assets are, what you can do with a reasonable hope of success.  And what your opponent can do.  You can do the exercise with men, other women or kids.

The sad truth is that a woman’s chances in a fight with a man aren’t good.  For this reason, a woman has about seven seconds to take a guy out in a fight before the odds for your success start to decrease.  For that first seven seconds, your opponent probably doesn’t see you as a lethal threat and you really do have a big advantage.  He probably thinks you won’t be a big obstacle.  You have to be lethal in your seven second window of opportunity.  That fact narrows down your range of targets considerably.  There just aren’t that many targets on a male opponent that will kill or disable him in a short time frame.  After that seven seconds, you can still win, it’s just harder. 

Don’t try to look tough.  In fact, try to look scared and totally useless.  By trying to look tough, you’re just advertising to the guy that you intend to fight back.

Rule One: The best weapon is never your body.  Nearly anything you can grab or hold is less likely to break and therefore a better weapon than your fist is.  Anything hard or sharp that you can get a good grip on is a weapon.  If you have a choice between a four inch knife and a ten inch knife, go for the shorter knife – it’s harder for your opponent to get away from you.  Never throw a weapon.  Keep your weapon and keep it in your control at all costs.  There are nearly always weapons around.  If you can get to a knife, slash at your opponent’s hands, short circular slashes that can reach both of the guy’s hands.  By circular slashes, I mean out and back towards your body, so that you’re set up for another slash.  Don’t try to get past his arms for a body stab.  Instead shred his hands.  Always stay aware of both of his hands.  Men are smart and competent, so if you are only paying attention to one hand, you can bet his other hand is about to take your knife away.

Take a few minutes to look around any room you’re in and think about what could be used as a weapon and how it could be used to bludgeon your opponent’s “soft” targets (like his nose) or to cut someone.  Anything you can reach that is not too light or too heavy can be used in one of those ways.   Be aware your opponent will try to get any weapon away from you.  As I mention later in talking about multiple strikes, if you don’t meet his move to disarm you with additional strikes, he probably will disarm you.

Rule Two: Forget any kind of typical karate punch.  You’ll break your wrist.  The bones in your hand and wrist are more fragile than almost anything you could hit.  And aside from a strike to someone’s nose or throat, that type of blow won’t incapacitate your opponent.

The difference between a male’s upper body strength and a woman’s is huge.  You can pound sand for a couple of years to work up to karate-style punching, if you want to.  But you have better weapons available: your knee, foot, elbow, side of fist, back of fist, head, teeth.  Those are your weapons if you can’t get a better one.   Having said that, it’s sensible to do 20 pushups a day (working up to it).  That little bit of muscle might save your life and will keep your tits from sagging as an additional bonus.

Karate is a power style and it suits men perfectly.  I don’t think it works for women.  Oh, it can work!  But it still plays to men’s strengths.  Wrestling is the.same deal.  If an assailant tried to wrestle with me, I’d try to bite his nose off.  Karate and wrestling are biased in favor of power and size.  If you want to take a martial art, try jiu jitsu (which uses leverage instead of power) or kickboxing – even boxing will teach you to duck and be light on your feet although it won’t teach you how to successfully hit someone.  I’m sure there are women martial artists who will disagree with me on this issue.  But, in a fight between a reasonably fit guy with no martial arts training and a woman with a black belt in karate, my money would go on the guy.  I wasted years on karate before coming to that conclusion.  And it wasn’t a conclusion I was happy to reach.

I used to think that martial arts was mostly a matter of learning to take a beating, ignore the pain and keep going.  There’s a weird humor in that, and it’s also true.  In a real fight, adrenaline will usually keep you from feeling the damage, for awhile.  Some people are really pain sensitive.  Other people are really afraid of pain and that’s a much, much bigger problem.  But pain is always preferable to death or permanent damage.  Pain is temporary.  Don’t let the prospect of pain wipe you out.  In a sense, martial arts teaches you that pain isn’t the end of the world.  Like hunger, if you ignore pain, it fades away.  I’ve known people who were afraid of hunger as if it was a big, scary thing.  Hundreds of thousands of years have honed humans to function perfectly in spite of pain or hunger.  We’re built to do that and succeed.  Even if someone shoots you, you can still function.

Get out of the mindset that you’ll lose the fight.  Your biggest limitations are mental.  You can do a lot more than you think you can.  You won’t lose if you’re vicious and sneaky enough.  It takes 12 pounds of pressure to break an elbow – including the elbow of a six foot four inch tall, two hundred and fifty pound guy.  About four pounds of pressure will break his nose.  In either case you just have to know your targets.  Speed and accuracy are more important than power. 

In a true do-or-die fight, go for gouging out eyes, nose strikes or bites, windpipe hits (below the adam’s apple), breaking knees or elbows.  Bite fingers off – don’t just bite them, bite them off.  If you want to win, you have to be brutal.

I’ve been told by guys who should know what they’re talking about, that kicking or kneeing a guy in the balls creates such a adrenaline surge that a guy doesn’t always become incapacitated for several minutes afterwards – and for those few minutes you have an enraged, adrenaline-overloaded opponent to deal with.  I mention this for what it’s worth.  That doesn’t mean I wouldn’t go for a guy’s genitals as a target of opportunity.  I just wouldn’t put all my faith in it.  Giving the impression that you’re terrorized will give you an addition edge.  Terror is incapacitating.  If you allow terror to rule you, the other guy’s job is already done for him.  You handed him your life on a platter.  But you can give the impression you are terrorized and it will lull your opponent into not expecting much retaliation.  Don’t rush him, let him come to you, then move in at the last second when he’s in arm’s reach.  Read his body language for how he’s going to attack or grab you.  What I’m trying to communicate is that, for a woman, there are a small number of targets and  a small number of ways of attacking those targets.  This should simplify your decisions.  Hence the next “rule.”

Rule Three: You need to work continual strikes.  Do not kick someone and then back off to see if the guy is going to stop or run away.  It’ll never work.  Use continuous strikes at your attacker – nose, knee, eyes, throat, temple, elbow, genitals and whatever else you can strike at.  The only exception to this rule is if you can either run away or get to a better weapon.  In that case, run or break away and/or go for the weapon.

Most people, in a fight, will try to stay back from their opponent.  That doesn’t usually work for a woman, kid or smaller guy.  When you back away, you’re playing to your opponent’s strengths – his longer reach.  It’s not instinctive, but a smaller fighter needs to get inside the reach of the bigger guy.  That way the bigger guys blows can’t deliver with full power and you can actually reach your targets.  The danger is being close enough to get into a grapple with someone who weighs a lot more than you.  But any distance where you can reach your target is fine.  You don’t want your opponent to be at the end of your reach, but within your reach. The big point here is that backing away isn’t in your best interests.  Your fear tells you to back off.  Ignore that fear.  You have to be close enough to hit the guy.

You cannot use brutal techniques (with the possible exception of breaking an opponent’s knee or elbow) on some drunk guy who grabs your ass or a school-yard bully.  If you do, you’ll go to jail for a very long time.  Brutal techniques are for situations that are deadly to you. [JWR Adds: Any strikes at the neck or head are considered lethal force attacks, for good reason. Do not use them unless you are in a truly life threatening situation where you are legally justified to use lethal force.]

If someone grabs you (including chokes), always break the hold towards the guys thumb.  The thumb is the weak part of any hold.  If someone grabs you by the wrist or arm: swing or twist and pull your arm in a direction that puts force against the guy’s thumb, bending it towards his wrist.  Be fast.  If you can get the guy’s arm straight while you’re trying to break the hold, bring up your other hand and use the heel of that hand to smash into the back of the guys elbow or his nose.  If he pulls his head back, go for his knee or groin.  And continuously go for any other target of opportunity.  Back of neck, temple, ear, etc.  Any move you make will cause your opponent to change his position to protect what he thinks you mean to attack, and his motion, in turn, will bring a different target into reach.  If you try to pull out of his grasp, he’ll brace his knees beautifully for you, so you can break them.

If someone is choking you from the front reach up and try to grab the guys thumbs  and pry them away. Thumbs move in more or less three directions with some kind of mobility, but not in the fourth direction, directly back towards his wrist.  That’s the direction you use to pry his thumbs away from whatever they have a grip on.  If you can get your fingers around his thumb you can break the choke by twisting the thumbs back fairly easily.  You can also try to bring both your forearms up between his forearms and explosively push your arms out against his arms – but this probably won’t work for an untrained woman against a powerful man.  Better to gouge his eyes or strike his throat with the side or back of your fist or your elbow.  If you can reach his eyes, go for them – that’ll almost always break his choke hold.  Or grab his private parts in your fist and twist hard.  The guy will let go of your throat.

Sometimes trying to pry out of someone’s grip isn’t using your best resources.  Better to break his knee, which is usually conveniently close (more on this later).  The great thing about knee attacks is that even if you don’t strike accurately enough to break it the guy will probably be limping and you can outrun him and you can almost always reach his knees with some kind of kick.  If someone has you from behind, usually your hands and feet (and possibly your elbows) are free.  Head butting (smashing back) into the guys nose is a great technique, but often the guy is so much taller that you can’t reach his nose with the back of your head.  Same deal for using your forehead to bash someone’s nose.  You can often reach back with your hands and grab, squeeze, wrench or tear the guy’s groin.  You can drop all your weight completely, which will sometimes get you free (to roll fast and get up).  Although women have much less upper body strength than men, a woman’s leg strength is almost as great as a man’s leg strength.  If you have shoes on, you can rake the guys shin with your heel, smash his foot (aim for the top of the arch) or better yet, kick back with one or both feet, repeatedly, to try to hit the front of his knees with the heels of your feet.  Most guys, holding you from behind, if you’re trying to hit his knees with your heels, will bend forward (to try to distance his knees from your feet) – this brings his head conveniently close so now you can smash the back of your head into his nose.  And, while you’re doing this, be thinking about a weapon you can grab if you get free.  Also, scream your rage loudly.  Get in touch with your inner berserker.  Sometimes rage and relentlessness are more important that power.  If you can’t reach his nose with the back of your head, hit anything on his face – except his teeth.  Other than teeth, every single part of his face is more susceptible to damage than the back of your head, or your elbow or the back or side of your fist, for that matter.  If you do all this, fast enough and continuously enough, you probably will get loose, at least briefly.

Before we get off the topic of an assailant grabbing you.  I just want to mention the tactic of faking blows (feints) to set up your opponent for a different blow.  We all telegraph our attacks, more or less, and you can use this to set someone up.  As I mentioned earlier, if someone has hold of you by the arm or wrist and you tense as if you’re about to break or wrench away, he’ll instantly brace for it.  That brace sets him up perfectly to break his knee – he’s got the knee all nice and braced for you.  Braced, it takes more time for him to get his knee out of the way or turn his knee to direct your blow at a less vulnerable part of him.  Every kind of attack sets up your opponent for another attack.  Every time your opponent moves or braces, he’s setting himself up for a different strike.  You need to think about that a little.  Every time you move, he’ll brace, move or try to compensate.  Every attack sets your opponent up for the next attack.  The point in feinting is that it helps avoid telegraphing your real attack. 

For any of the kicks, imagine the target is about six inches past where it actually is.  Really believe that – that you’re trying to strike something behind the true target.  Don’t worry too much about power because trying to put all your power into it will slow you down and make pulling your foot back after the strike harder, plus you’ll telegraph the coming strike to your opponent a lot more.  Aim for a point behind your target and pull back instantly after striking, all in one motion.  That’s how you want your kicks to work.

There are three basic kinds of kicks.  Front kicks, side-kicks and back kicks.  Front kicks involve hitting with the ball of your foot at something in front of you (unless you have hard shoes on, in which case use any part of your foot).  Keep your toes bent up if you’re barefoot – you’ll strike with the ball of your feet.  Think about running in place, how your foot comes down and hits the ground and recoils back to your torso.  Like running, your toes aren’t pointed towards the ground as your foot comes down, they’re angled up, out of the way, so that you’ll hit the ground with the bottom of your foot. Now try to translate that kind of motion except instead of hitting the ground you’re hitting a target.  Hit and pull back like a spring.  If you have heavy shoes on, you can kick the way a guy kicks a football without hurting your toes.  Any attacker, if you try to kick anything above his knee or leave your leg or foot out where he can grab it, will grab your foot and lift it (keeping hold of it), putting you down on the ground and completely in his control.  You need to pull it back in to prevent that from happening and also to support yourself for your next strike.

Side-kicks involve hitting with the outside edge of your foot at something sideways to you.  Side-kicks are both powerful and fast.  I wouldn’t hesitate to side-kick to the front by turning slightly while I’m kicking. It’s a stronger blow that front kicks and faster pulling back.  Watch a martial arts movie to see some side-kicks, but ignore the fancy high strikes.  Nothing above the knee.  Imagine you’re running up to a boulder, then raising your foot to push off the boulder and reverse your running direction – and since you’re moving fast you’re pulling that leg back and down fast to hit the ground and continue running.  That’s not a perfect analogy, but for someone who has never tried this, it’s better than nothing. 
Back kicks usually mean using your heel or back edge of your heel as a weapon to hit something behind you.  Again, don’t worry about power,  worry about speed, accuracy, not telegraphing the motion and getting your foot back under you fast.
Elbow strikes mean using your elbow as a weapon.  Practically any place you can hit is a good target.  But, preferentially, throats, or noses, solar plexus, ribs, kidneys, anywhere on the face or throat is less ideal but good targets. 

As I mentioned before, if you need to use your hands, use the bottom or the back of your closed fist or the heel of your hand rather than your knuckles.  The reason is that these blows don’t compress your wrist as much.  By the bottom of your fist, I mean the area on the same side as your little finger – hammer-wise, the way you would pound on a table.  Back of  your fist is similar to ‘backhanding’ your opponent, except with your fingers closed in a fist.

A lot of women have long fingernails.  Another reason for using the bottom or back of your fist is that these blows can be used without a really tight fist so they will work even if you have long nails.  If you have any nails, a normal karate or boxing-style fist strike (like you see in the movies) will compress your nails into your palms.  But, back of fist or bottom of fist strikes can be done  with a loosely made fist, just fine.  Regardless, any kind of fist is your very last choice as a weapon.  And if you do have to use fists, put your heart into it.  Targets are nose, throat, temples but hit anything you can reach if you have no other option.  Don’t pound on a guy’s chest or upper arms, they’re useless as targets.  Worse than useless.

Striking with the heel of your hand is very effective for nose strikes.  The area around someone’s nose and upper lip has more nerve endings than (almost) any other place on their body.  A hit to someone’s nose is one of the most painful blows you can give someone.  It makes your targets eyes water copiously, so your assailant can’t see too well.  It bleeds a bunch.  The biggest danger in this strike is that your miss the nose and hit your opponent’s teeth.  His teeth will really mess up your hand.  A lot of people think you can drive someone’s nasal bones up into their brain, killing them, with this kind of blow.  I’ve been told it’s an urban legend. The heel of your hand is also effective against the back of someone’s elbow.  Use a hard sharp blow at the exact back of the elbow, pushing the elbow in the direction it doesn’t bend while holding the guys wrist or forearm with your other hand.  If you don’t have your other hand on his wrist, but he’s holding you, that works too.  It has to be fast because your opponent only has to slightly turn his elbow so that the elbow can bend with the blow, if he sees it coming.  But even if he turns his elbow, it’ll hurt. 

Another way to break an elbow, if the guy isn’t too much taller than you, is to step under his arm (turning so your back is to him) and bring his arm down on your shoulder so that his elbow is just ahead of your shoulder, pull it down hard to break his elbow.  If the guy’s too tall, you can’t get the leverage you need to break his elbow this way – your shoulder needs to be almost as high as his. 

As an example of continuous strikes: Let’s say the guy throws a punch at you.  You quickly bring up your forearm to block his punch, then slide your arm and grab his wrist and start to swing under his raised arm.  As you swing into the turn, you build momentum to swing your other elbow around into his solar plexus (just below the breast bone) which brings his head down, bending him over a little and that puts you and him in position to swing you fist up for a back fist strike to his nose.  Which swings his upper torso back and away so he’s set up for you to bring his upper arm down on your shoulder to break his elbow (his elbow is facing down).  See what I mean about each strike, even if it doesn’t land, setting him up for your next strike?

A few words about blocking: the most common way to block an incoming blow is to use your forearm against his forearm.  It’s a pretty decent move but only slightly diffuses the direction and force of his blow, so you also need to be moving to the side so his target (you) isn’t where it was.  

To gouge someone’s eyes: punch your thumbs into the very inside corners of your attackers eyes (the side where his tear ducts are). Once your thumb is in behind the eyeball, bend your thumbs in and push towards the outside corners of his eyes and then back out.  You’re reaching in behind his eyeballs and then pushing them out in one smooth move.
If you’re down on the ground, on your back, and your opponent is standing anywhere near your feet, you can hook one foot behind his ankle and with the bottom of your other foot, push hard on the front of his shin, just below his knee.  That will put your opponent on their butt if you do it fast enough and it doesn’t even take much strength.  Roll fast and get a foot under you to get up and away fast.  The reason you always roll to your feet is that it’s faster than any other way to get to your feet.  It uses your momentum to help you get up.  You have to practice.

The classic way to fall when you go down onto your back, is with your arms out from your body about thirty degrees, slap your forearm and hand on the ground hard, just as your back hits but before your head hits.  That slap will defuse the force of the fall to prevent your head from hitting.  Don’t get your elbow under you, keep your arm out nearly straight at that 30 degree angle out from your torso.

Often a man will grab a woman by her hair to try to control her.  If a man has a handful of your hair, use your hand to try to press his fist against your head while using your other hand or feet to attack him.  If you can keep his fist against your head, it keeps his hold on your hair from hurting you.  If you can’t do that, attack with everything you have and ignore the pain. 

You can practice kicks on a tree trunk or stacked bales of hay, if you don’t have a heavy punching bag.  Everything else, you can practice with a brother, boyfriend or friend, except use soft slaps or taps instead of blows – practice ducking, blocking blows and feinting (faking moves).  Practice with your kids or women friends.  This alone won’t make you a good fighter but it’s a lot better than nothing and might save your life or your family.