SurvivalBlog is dedicated to family preparedness, survival, self-reliance, and self-sufficiency. Are you new to
this blog?
Be advised that you are jumping in to extant threads. Read "About" first.
Then read my "Precepts page." For in-depth study, see the archives. Thanks!
- JWR
The MOAB Expands Yet Again: Five State Governors Seek $1 Trillion from Uncle Sugar
Back in November I reiterated my point that the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB)
would know no limits. One of my specific warnings was: "The States - Some 29
of the 50 states are reporting budget crises. Lo an behold,
most of the hardest hit states are those with bloated Nanny
State bureaucracies.
No surprise there. The states that had the worst fiscal management, of course,
will get the biggest share of the taxpayer funds. Those that were fiscally
conservative will get nothing." A recent wire service headline confirmed
that prediction: U.S.
governors seek $1 trillion
federal assistance.The article begins: "Governors of five U.S. states
urged the federal government to provide $1 trillion in aid to the country's 50
states
to help pay for education, welfare and infrastructure as states struggle with
steep budget deficits amid a deepening recession. The governors of New York,
New Jersey, Massachusetts, Ohio and Wisconsin -- all Democrats -- said the initiative
for the two-year aid package was backed by other
governors and follows a meeting in December where governors called on President-elect
Barack Obama to help them maintain services in the face of slumping revenues."
This is affirmation of my long-standing assertion that the MOAB
will continue to expand, uncontrollably. According
to a published tally sent to me by SurvivalBlog reader Matt C., $7.2 trillion
of bailout money has been allocated, of which $2.6 trillion has already
been spent.
It is noteworthy that this figure does not include President-elect BHO's
proposed $1 trillion "stimulus
package",
nor does it include the $1 trillion sought by the state governors.But even
this
glut of Federal largesse (from your wallet, BTW), will be insufficient.
You will read of some spectacular state and municipal bond failures, more
derivatives fiascos,
state pension funds "in
crisis", and then there will be news of "special levies", "temporary'
or
"one time" taxes, and so forth. I anticipate that both state income
taxes and state
sales
taxes
will increase dramatically. There of course will also be news of "drastic"
cut-backs, but chances are that while some of the more extravagant programs
will be cut, few bureaucratic paper-pushing
jobs
will
be sacrificed.
(That, my friends is is the only truly "essential service" in the
eyes of a bureaucrat.) I also would not be surprised to see some of the
states
that have
never had
sales
taxes
start
to
implement
them.
The
bottom
line is
that
we can expect taxes to increase at the city, state, and
Federal
levels.
In an era of rising unemployment, the few
people
that
are still productive
and fully employed will be asked to shoulder the burden of the bailouts.
It will be wealth redistribution on a grand scale--Robin Hoodism run amok.
The only
genuine escape from all this would be expatriation, but few will take that
route. However, the one thing that
you can do with relative ease is
move internally to
a state with a smaller scale of government. Again, it is no coincidence
that the states that have he most bloated bureaucracies, the least fiscal
responsibility, and the most Nanny State
trappings
are
those that are having the biggest budget crises. If you stay in
any of those states, they are going to sock it to you. You can expect--with
utter certainty--that the tax rates in those states
to soon rise to painful levels. My advice is simple: Vote with your feet.
For any of SurvivalBlog readers that are self-employed, or that are retired
(or that are about to retire), or that have "portable" jobs that
are readily available with the same job security
in other states, my advice comes down to one word: move.
If you have been considering moving to a state with suitable retreat
areas,
take this as your cue. Given the
deteriorating real estate markets-both residential and commercial--this may
indeed be your
last chance to sell and move before you lose another 30% of your equity. Parenthetically,
I recently
had
some correspondence with a consulting client that owner of a small but prosperous
business in California. This man owns both a home and half a dozen pieces
of commercial
real estate.
He is someone
that has been "considering" moving to a state where hi family would
have better chance of avoiding violent crime. My advice to him was blunt:
"I recommend that
you seriously consider moving out of California, while you
still have the chance to sell your business as a profitable operation, and
sell your other
commercial
properties at a profit." And later, "I recommend moving out of
California and making your new [retreat] home your full-time residence. Sell
off most
or all of your
California properties. Perhaps leave one or two that are the most stable,
profitable, and recession proof in the hands of a trustworthy
commercial property management company. I realize that it is a major life
change that we are discussing, but recognize the real decisions have already
been made, and made by folks "above our pay grade". Presently,
99% of the population are deer in the headlights. They are petrified and
they are going to get squashed. You are in a good position at present,
and you should take full advantage of it by cashing out and moving as soon
as possible. If you wait until the recession (and then depression) sets in
in earnest, you will probably lose nearly everything. " And later in
the correspondence, after he mentioned how his business ventures were still
prospering,
I wrote:
" At the current rate, the prosperity you currently enjoy will evaporate
in less than two years. By then, all that you will have is un-sellable properties
and negative cash flows. Get out!" I then went on to
recommend to make some specific recommendations on potential retreat locales
(one of which was highlighted in my book "Rawles
on Retreat and Relocation".)
I concluded with an admonition: "There are quality of
like
issues at stake, but more importantly preservation of life issues.
Discuss this with your family and pray about it. In any case reduce your
commercial real estate holdings, as soon
as possible. That needs to be done, regardless
of where you
move. Do not hesitate."
I'm sure that there are many other
SurvivalBlog readers that are in comparable situations to that consulting
client. My advice to many of you would probably be much
the same. The only strong proviso in all this is: Do not abandon
a job that is good-paying and that has genuine job security. In
times like these, that would be foolish.
Letter Re: Bulk Diesel Fuel Antibacterial and Stabilizer
Hi Jim,
For what it is worth: I was quoted $1.99/gal for diesel/fuel oil for Friday
delivery (Northern Virginia) from the terminal, and since it looks like prices
will be heading up from here, I am filling all of my reserve tanks. After
several hours of study, I decided to go with FPPF Super Fuel Storage Stabilizer
and FPPF KILLEM (rather than PRI-D or Stanadyne products) in 32 ounce bottles
to protect my investment. The best price I found via mail order was from Fleet
Source in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Delivered cost: $126 for enough
to treat 4,000 gallons.
I hope this is useful information for your other readers. Thank you so very
much for your wonderful work! Happy New Year! - Scott in Northern Virginia
Letter Re: Small Volume Water Purification with UV from Sunlight
Jim,
I recently learned about a water
purification system that is being promoted by Rotary International for
Third World areas without safe drinking water. Simply put: fill a plastic bottle
with water, and leave it in the bright sun for six hours. The ultraviolet (UV)
light kills the pathogens, and the water is safe to drink. [JWR Adds: This
method only works well with fairly clear water. UV light cannot penetrate very
murky water, and it will not sterilize any plant matter suspended in the water.
So be sure to use a pre-filter when treating water from open sources such as
ponds, lakes, or streams. ]
Sound too good to be true? The Swiss-developed system has been saving lives
for 17 years. It is fastest in the tropics, where increased water temperature
assists the process. Winter use in temperate zones may want to consider using
solar ovens or greenhouses to achieve adequate water temperature. Even in bright
cloudy weather, the process is effective after two days.
I might not want to make this my first potion, but if stranded in the wilderness,
of stuck for an extended period without a reliable water supply, I’d
give it serious consideration. Regards, - Ben
Letter Re: Acquiring Tire Repair Supplies and Compressors
Mr. Rawles,
After getting a flat tire recently in the back-country I decided to beef up
my off-road repair kit with more than just a spare tire. I now have two spares.
I've also added a portable 12V compressor along with a
portable tire puncture repair kit like this one.
For $35 the kit includes enough plugs to repair perhaps a dozen punctures,
extra valve stems and valves, valve wrench and high quality reamer and needle
for applying the tire plugs. It is an excellent kit and is much higher quality
than the plug kits you find in typical auto stores.
In some states it's illegal to use tire plugs, but for an emergency situation
it may be just the ticket you need to get to a tire shop and have a proper
tire patch applied. - Craig R.
JWR Replies: That is good advice. I must add one proviso: The
12 VDC compressors normally sold for roadside emergencies use a very wimpy
compressor that will not re-inflate a flat tire
that has the weight of a car resting on in. They just don't have the requisite
oomph. Buy
a proper 117 VAC compressor with a 2 gallon pressure tank. (If
you are a SurvivalBlog reader, odds are that you already carry a 117 VAC inverter,
anyway. These compressors can be run from a small inverter. I've done
so many times around the ranch.) If you
pay less than $50 for a new compressor, then you can be sure that it will be
inadequate
for
anything
more than
adding a few pounds of pressure to a tire with a slow leak.
Odds 'n Sods:
Thanks to Lisa for finding this gem: Blacksmith
'a collector of forgotten trades'
o o o
Joe H. sent us a link to an article from Permaculture magazine about self-sufficient
living on the cheap (in England)
o o o
I read that the latest movie in the Terminator franchise (Terminator
4: Salvation) is
scheduled for release on May 22, 2009. Judging from the
trailers, it looks like
most if not all of the film takes place in the post-Skynet nuked future. This
one should
be good.
o o o
The latest flurry of economic news and commentary links from The Economatrix: Bank
Bailouts a Failure...And There is No Plan "B" -- Frugal
is Cool in Cash-Strapped US -- UK
$200 Billion Re-Financing Time Bomb -- UK
Banks on Brink of Second Bailout -- UK
Banks Defy Brown's Call to Loosen Credit -- BoE
to Cut Interest Rates; Savers to Receive Zero Interest -- Jobless in City Park Tent Village -- US
Manufacturing Slumps to 1980 Low -- Gulf
Cooperation Council to Create
New Currency -- Feds
Sell Off Failed IndyMac for $13.9 Billion -- Sanderson
State Bank Latest Failed Bank -- Oil
Prices Rebound as Dollar Slumps -- Store
Bankruptcies Can Burn Shoppers -- Will
Your Cell Phone Crash in Emergencies?
o o o
FloridaGuy flagged this: Newark, New Jersey bans barbed wire
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"There was no court in Holland which would enforce payment. The question
was raised in Amsterdam, but the judges unanimously refused to interfere, on
the ground that debts contracted in gambling were no debts in law. Thus the
matter rested. To find a remedy was beyond the power of the government. Those
who were unlucky enough to have had stores of tulips on hand at the time of
the sudden reaction were left to bear their ruin as philosophically as they
could; those who had made profits were allowed to keep them; but the commerce
of the country suffered a severe shock, from which it was many years ere it
recovered." - Charles Mackay, LL.D., describing the Tulipomania, in Extraordinary
Popular Delusions and the Madness of Crowds, first published London,1841.
Letter Re: Building a Very Inexpensive 10-in-1 Machine Tool for Every Retreat
Dear Mr. Rawles
The [home-made] MultiMachine is
an accurate all-purpose machine tool that can be used as a metal or wood lathe,
end mill, horizontal mill, drill press, wood or metal
saw or sander, surface grinder and sheet metal "spinner". It can
be built by a semi-skilled mechanic using just common hand tools. For machine
construction, electricity can be replaced with "elbow grease" and
all the necessary material can come from discarded vehicle parts.
If the MultiMachine builder adds just three easily-learned skills:
Making small welds with a welder made from three vehicle batteries hooked
in series.
Using a flower pot furnace to make simple Zinc and Aluminum alloy castings.
Grinding lathe cutting tools. (There are many "How to" instructions
on the web for all this).
...then they can then build seven additional metal bending, rolling and cutting
tools that could be used to equip a small but fully functional metal working
factory.
That's about 20 serious metal working tools in a project that needs just broken
engine blocks, used pipe and truck frame pieces (and lots of hacksaw blades)!
How can just one kind of machine do all this? In almost every kind of machining
operation, either the work piece or the cutting tool turns. If enough flexibility
is built into these functions, the resulting machine can do almost every kind
of metal working operation that will physically fit.
Sounds crazy or too good to be true? The 4,600 member Yahoo news group on Multimachines
doesn't think so and are standing ready to help.
Don't know anything about machining? Read the small book "How to Run a Lathe" available
on our news group.
Every person interested in personal survival needs these free books and video
in their library (at least)!
Again, no catches, no charges, no nothing! Just benefit from the seven years
work spent developing machine tools for poor people in developing countries.
- Pat D.
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Survival On a Shoestring Budget
I often get e-mails from readers claiming either directly or indirectly that
preparedness is "only for wealthy people"--that working class people
cannot afford to prepare. That is nonsense. By simply re-prioritizing your
budget and cutting out needless expenses (such as alcohol, cigarettes, convenience
foods, and cable television) almost anyone can set aside enough money for a
year's worth of storage food in fairly short order.
It is amazing what can be done with hard work, ingenuity, and very little
money. While I do not endorse interloping on public lands nor do I
suggest that you live like a hermit, the following stories are indicative
of what can be accomplished with next to no cash.
First, here is an
article about about a father and daughter that lived for four years undetected
in a Portland, Oregon park
Next, a
news story about a hermit who secretly lived for at least three years inside
the "secure" Los Alamos nuclear research reservation in New Mexico:
Next, an
article about New York City's part-legend, part-fact "Mole People"
I also vaguely recall in the early 1990s reading an article about a man who
secretly built an underground house in parkland abutting the suburbs somewhere
on the east coast. The house went undetected for several years. Its entrance
was hidden in a berry thicket. He was only discovered because neighbors saw
his comings and goings. When sheriff's deputies arrived to investigate, after
much searching for the entrance, they entered the underground house just as
the man was taking a shower in his bathroom. (Perhaps one of you readers saved
the newspaper clipping or has a link to the news story.)
I recommend the book "The
Last of the Mountain Men". It is the story of Sylvan Hart (a.k.a."Buckskin
Bill"), a famous Idaho solitary who lived deep in a roadless section
of the River of No Return Wilderness. His solution to his own unemployment
during the Great Depression was to move to the wilderness and live self-sufficiently.
The book describes how Hart lived from the 1930s to the 1970s. He mined and
smelted his own copper, made his own muzzle loading rifles and pistols, and
constructed his house and garden. It is a fascinating book.
And for someone with a "maxi" budget? Consider the
Bear Den: [now
advertised at our spin-off SurvivalReatly.com web site.]
I didn't point out all of the preceding references because I want you to live
like hermits or flee into the wilderness and live in a hollowed-out tree like
the boy in My
Side of the Mountain. Rather, I just want you to start thinking outside
the box. Survival is 90% sweat, ingenuity, and perseverance.
It is only the remaining 10% that requires cash.
Letter Re: Feed Sacks as Sandbag Substitutes
Mr. Rawles;
We came across a small discovery here on our ranch. We feed many animals and
four dogs. So we go through a good deal of dog food in bags. I noticed the
similarity in dog food bags to the construction of sandbags. So, I have been
using , dog
food bags as low cost/no cost sandbags. They work well and if you keep the weight
close to the amount that came in the bag. They don't rip. We have been using
them for a year and they hold up well in our tests thus far. They have been
used in areas that are under roof so they don't get exposed to rain/moisture.
They work well in areas where one would want to bag to bolster areas close
to windows etc. We have also stored some without sand dirt and they hold up
well and don't seem to degrade.
I thought I would share our small discovery. Thanks for what you do and your
efforts. - EG
Odds 'n Sods:
The Releveller wrote to suggest that America's architectural future may
lie in China's past: Fujian
Tulou.
o
o o
In the "Why am I not surprised?" Department: NASA's
Hansen to Obama: Use
Global Warming to Redistribute Wealth
o o o
Chris K. sent a linked to a Wired magazine
article with lots of rookie survival comments. Chris noted: "A few sound
like they may survive the first couple weeks and [then] become armed and
dangerous -- a good reason to move
another
100 miles away from the 'blast zone'."
o o o
More economic cheer from Cheryl: 2008
Humiliating Year for Investors, Outlook for 2009 Grim -- Ten Major Threats
Facing US Dollar in 2009 -- In Gold We Trust -- GMAC Bailout a Sign
of the Times -- Second-Hand
Stores Shine in Weak Retail Market -- 1940s
Austerity: Make Do, Waste Not -- Flawed
Accounting Methods Hides True Scale of Pension Fund Losses -- Microsoft
Announces 15,000 Job Losses -- Economists
Warn of Doom and Gloom -- Jobless Who Get Benefits Most
Since 1982; 4.5 Million Figure Expected to Grow -- Banker Buys
$37 Million Apartment After Getting $25 Million Buying for Doing Virtually
Nothing -- How
We Went from $42,000 to $6,500 and Lived to Tell About It -- GMAC's
$6 Billion Deal Show Why Automakers Need to Head for Chapter 11 -- Ludwig von Mises Institute: The Crisis in 10 Points
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"America’s most precious metals are Gold, Silver, and Blued Steel." -
Frank in Maine (a SurvivalBlog reader)
Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 20 of the SurvivalBlog
non-fiction writing contest. The contest prizes include:
First Prize: The writer of the best contributed
article will be awarded two transferable Front
Sight "Gray" Four Day Training Course Certificates. This
is an up to $4,000 value!
Second Prize: A three day course certificate from OnPoint
Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day
civilian courses.
Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles
Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing
Round 20 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us
your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills
for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
Fishing at the End of the World, by Jason A.
Fishing with a single line is not the most effective or efficient use of one’s
time when the goal is to harvest fish for food. At the best, I have seen fishermen
attend to four or five lines with limited success. Any more than that will
cost the fisherman bait and bites. When TEOTWAWKI arrives
the chances that we find time to enjoy the simpler pleasures—such as
wetting a line in the shade while enjoying a brew—will vanish. The purpose
of this writing is to describe the several methods that will produce large
catches with little
or no attention needed.
The techniques have varied names depending on where you are from and some work
in different ways but the goal is the same: To present lines to the fish with
a means to work against the fish, thus hooking it, fighting it and/or notifying
the fisherman of a bite. Thus, many of the techniques act essentially as water
bound traps.
The primary prey pursued with these techniques is catfish. Catfish are one
few fish with a very wide range. According to author Joseph S. Nelson, different
types of catfish can be found on every continent except Antarctica. (Fishes
of the World, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. ISBN 047125031) However,
they may not all
be
edible (I know
of
several saltwater
species that are not). Catfish are very nutritious as well. According
to one Internet reference, one three-ounce serving of freshwater catfish
contains "about 146 calories, 17
grams
of protein
and 8.7 grams of fat." Not to mention essential vitamins and minerals.
Smaller variants of the methods described and different baits can be used with
other species of fish however. It must be said, also, that when fishing for
catfish, turtles are likely. However turtles are usually not an unwelcome catch
as they are as tasty as catfish (though they are more difficult to pull up).
In my home state of Kentucky most if not all fishing techniques have clear
and strict regulations to ensure fair harvest and safety. For instance, here
in Kentucky sport lines such as are described in this writing must be certain
distances from dams and are restricted in bodies of water of certain sizes.
In Kentucky, Each sport fishing trotline, jug line or set line must be: 1)
permanently labeled with the name and address of the user; 2) baited, checked
and all fish removed at least once every 24 hours; 3) removed from water, bank
or tree when fishing ceases.
Important warning: Check your state and local regulations before embarking
upon any fishing venture.
Jug Lines
I begin this writing with the subject of jug lines because of all of the techniques
in this article, there are none more productive or entertaining.
As with most fishing techniques there are several variations so experimentation
cannot be discounted. Anything that fits the purpose is sufficient. That purpose
is nothing more than to present a baited hook to your prey and attach it to
something (a jug) that pulls back sufficiently to hook the fish and notify
the angler. The jug line advantage is that the line depth can present the bait
at multiple depths if the feeding zone is not known. This allows the angler
to set multiple jugs at varying depths until a successful depth is discovered.
The simplest and most recognizable setup involves nothing more than a jug,
a line, a hook and a sinker. The jug could be almost anything that floats.
Two liter or 16 ounce soda bottles are fine. Empty and cleaned detergent or
bleach bottles are superb as they are thick and float well. As of late, more
and more anglers are determined to refine the technique by “building” jugs.
The most effective ones are nothing more than a length of PVC pipe threaded
through a “pool noodle”. The pipe should be longer than the noodle
and the noodle should be pushed on and secured to one end. The line and accompaniments
are tied to the pipe at the exposed end. Thus, when the fish pulls down, the
noodle stands up as notification of a “fish on”. The jug can float
on the current or it can be anchored by tying on another line or by placing
the hook line off the main line by using a swivel.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of jug lines to no more than 50 per boat.
Jug lines may contain only one hook per jug. Check your state and local regulations.
Limb Lines (Set Lines)
Limb lines are simply lengths of line with the end opposite the hook secured
to an overhanging limb. This technique is probably better suited for rivers
because limbs overhanging lakes will more than likely be located in shallow
water.
One variation of limb lines is cane poling, where the limb is provided by the
angler. Basically the longest and most sturdy (while flexible) length of cane
is equipped with a hook, line, sinker (optional) and bait. The opposite end
of the cane is driven deep into the ground of the nearby bank. The arc of the
cane is the indication of the bite.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of limb lines to no more than 25 per person.
Set lines may contain only one hook per line.
Trotlines
Trotlines are simply limb lines with more than one hook. The additional hooks
are attached to shorter lengths of line which are attached to the main line
via swivels. Knots keep the swivels from moving the shorter lines where they
are unwanted. One end of the line is attached to a stationary object on shore
such as a tree (limb or trunk) or a fence post. The other end should be anchored
in some way. A coffee can filled with dry cement and an eye bolt is fine or
a brick works equally as well. Do not do as most old timers do and bait up
your hooks from shore and toss the brick. It is a good way to get an arm (or
head) full of hooks.
There are variations to the standard trotline. Both ends can be tied to stationary
shore objects and the line can be strung across the water with a weight in
the center. As with the other techniques improvisation is an art and can yield
better results.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of trot lines to no more than 2 per person.
There are also strict regulations on the quantity of hooks per line as well
as the spacing of said hooks. The line must also be set three feet or more
below the water’s surface.
Hooks
Hooks must be chosen based on the application. As a general rule, for these
techniques, the stronger the hook the better the performance. Stronger is relative
not only to the material of the hook (which should be steel) or the thickness
(thicker the better) but also the coating. The hooks should be zinc-coated
at the very least. Stainless steel is best. Remember that these hooks are going
to spend a great deal of time submerged. In fact, the best trotline hooks are
probably saltwater hooks.
The style of hook to be used is mostly personal preference. Some will argue
that certain styles work better. Choose the appropriate hook for the prey and
bait. I personally prefer a circle hook as I think it does a better job of
hooking the fish and keeping it hooked. I don’t have any data to back
up this claim. The engineer in me tells me this is correct and that also the
deep circular bend would also prove stronger. Maybe one day I’ll test
that theory.
The size of the hook, again, must be chosen to fit the application. Most sizes
from size 3/0 to 6/0 are used commonly. The middle ground is the most common.
Line
The line used should be strong and most synthetic materials can be used. Cotton
should not be used, however. Surveyors twine is strong when dry but is absolutely
the worst line to use. The line must be like the hook, impervious to the effects
of being submerged for extended amounts of time. Some suppliers in New England
offer a line that is tarred for water resistance. Heavy braided fishing lines
can also be used. The diameter is not very important. The fish will not see
the lines or hooks; they will come to the lines by smelling and feeling the
bait. Bait
The bait placed on the line will, in most cases, determine the catch.
Flathead catfish are notoriously picky and most times will only take live bait
such as shiners, chubs or bluegill. Most times, these baits can be lip-hooked.
I feel, however, that hooking them through the eye or toward the tail improves
the bite. It may seem cruel but the more injured the bait appears, the more
likely the predator will strike.
Blue catfish and channel catfish will bite live bait and almost anything else
including but not limited to: shrimp, leeches, worms, chicken liver or gizzards,
catalpa worms, doughbait, stinkbait, and cutbait.
It is important not to overlook anything as bait. It should also be noted that
certain baits work better on certain days or seasons. The good news is that
you can set enough lines to experiment and see what works.
Location
The best places to set jug lines are along large, long flats where large catfish
roam, hunting their prey. On lakes, creek arms or shallow bays are prime locations.
Timing
Most fishermen prefer to try their luck during the hours just before and after
dusk and well into the night. Full moon nights seem to produce the best. Catfish
are great hunters in any light due to their amazing senses however. Catfish
can taste with many different parts of their body. They are sometimes called “swimming
tongues”. Combine that with the electro receptors in its head and it
becomes the perfect killing machine—a virtual freshwater shark—in
low light conditions.
While Blues and Channels will eat anything, including junk, the Flathead prefers
live bait and thus is more vulnerable at night when hunting is easy.
After the Catch
Despite what many people say, a catfish can be filleted as any normal fish
might. Skinning is not necessary but can decrease the amount of meat that is
wasted. The knife used for filleting must be very sharp. Use caution.
Start with a cut that runs parallel the fish’s gills but is rear of the
pectoral fin. Make that cut, also parallel to the cutting surface or ground,
until the knife hits bone. Remove the knife. Reinsert the knife, with the flat
of the blade parallel to the bone you just hit, starting with the tip at the
fish’s back. While slicing, insert the tip further and work the cuts
toward the rear of the fish. If you are contacting the rib bones you are making
the cuts deep enough. Once you move the knife rear of the ribs you can insert
it straight down and out the other side at the bottom of the fish. Continue
rearward, keeping the knife as close to bone as possible. When you have reached
the tail, flip the meat over and severe any additional attachment points. After
the fillet and skin combination has been removed from the fish lay it on a
flat surface with the skin down. Lay the knife blade parallel to the cutting
surface and remove the meat from the skin. Place the first fillet in cool clean
water with a dash of salt added. The salt will prevent bacteria growth and
will season the meat a bit. Repeat for the opposite side.
Once your fish have been filleted, wash your hands and proceed with steps to
cook your catch.
Pat the fish dry and dredge in cornmeal, fry in a cast iron skillet full of
cooking oil. Enjoy!
Conclusion
When securing food is of a higher priority than having a good time, the techniques
described in this article are far superior to rod and reel. That being said,
the entertainment value of simply providing food for the table by hunting a
prey and succeeding make the reward just that much tastier.
Letter Re: Inexpensive Spare Eyeglasses
Hello JWR,
Thanks for the site. Information is the best currency. I will send 10
Cent Challenge money in
February.
Just wanted to give you a link to LBWEyewear.com,
a site I discovered which sells [made-to-order] prescription eyeglasses. Most
normal pairs are less than $25.
Some less than $15.
I don't have any connection to that site, just a satisfied customer. I'm sure
there are others like it.
I have found that paying 200+ dollars for a pair of glasses is not economical
because I lose them often and break them. It's always good to have a spare
pair in the car, or BOB. And even though ordering eyeglasses on a web site"sight
unseen" means you have to guess as to the style / fit, it's better to
have a clunky pair in an emergency than none. Also, post-SHTF, optometrists
appointments are probably low priority. I think this falls under the category
of medical supplies, such as prescription medicines.
For the second time now I have ordered 4 pairs for less than 60 dollars. There
is a pair in each vehicle I own, one by the television, one in the shooting
bag, etc. Also, after ordering once I now know which to order that are stylish
for me. This company sent both my packages snailmail within two weeks.
Here's the catch: you have to know your prescription. That means you have to
call your eye doctor and finagle this information out of their
receptionist. Legally they have to give you this info, but that doesn't mean
they will. Optometrists make their money selling their ability to check your
eyes. They're selling you the eye exam, not the glasses. But they give you
the exam "for free", because you will buy the glasses for hundreds
of dollars. The manufacturing itself costs only a few dollars for common glass
Also, your prescription is more than what is written on your contact lenses
box. You have to know the power of your near / farsightedness, the axis of
any astigmatisms, and your pupillary distance. Doctors don't
often give this information on the first try.
In support of buying local and supporting independent retailers you may want
to pay your optometrist something for their service. I however cannot justify
another pair of over-priced specs. Offering to "buy the exam" may
be a more honorable way to go.
Hope this info is helpful! Best, - N.
Three Letters Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?
Dear Jim:
Why go to college at all? Speaking as a college graduate, unless you are getting
a technical degree, you would probably learn more apprenticing in a real
business that interests you, and studying on your own and taking courses
part time. When you need to apply knowledge right away, motivation is high,
and the lesson really sticks. Bonus - you avoid 4 years of immersion in (and
contributing to) a politically correct cesspool - often intellectually dishonest
to boot.
For some professions you do need a degree for technical knowledge. But most
of the time a degree is just a screening device or "ticket punch" to
show that you can study hard and persevere. Gary
North has a whole section on his web site on how to beat the college racket,
and get your ticket punched with a degree for under $25,000, and no debt.
The way things are going a highly skilled trade where you can work for yourself
might be the best bet (electrician, plumber, auto mechanic, computer repair,
etc., etc.). Someone who can just work like a professional in the "blue
collar" trades will have such an advantage over most of the competition
they will do well.
Regards, - OSOM
Mr. Rawles,
I wholeheartedly agree with both of the readers whose letters referenced learning
a trade before attending college. My own experience, I grew up in a military
family, when I graduated High School I wasn't sure the military for me just yet
and had the foresight to understand I probably wasn't mature enough to handle
college at that point in my life. I was also fortunate that in addition to a
tradition of military service my family also had years of experience in the trades,
one Grandfather became a boilermaker after the Navy, the other a carpenter after
his stint in the Army, my Father retired after 22 years in the Air force and
learned the trade of sheet metal work and HVAC repair, all of them proudly non-union.
With their guidance I did some research and discovered the excellent merit shop
(Non-union) apprenticeship programs offered by the Associated Builders and Contractors
(ABC). The tuition is reasonable, (roughly $200 per semester when I started in
1997) and most member companies are so thrilled to have a young worker take his
career seriously that they will sponsor the cost, provided good grades are maintained.
I chose the carpentry apprenticeship program, and shortly after graduation on
my 18th birthday embarked on a eye-opening and enlightening experience. One of
the first things that shocked me was that at a modest sized company for our large
upper midwest town, (150 field employees) there was only one other apprentice
my age. We had a handful of laborers who were college dropouts, but none of them
were interested in tradecraft training, preferring to remain unskilled laborers
and wondering why they always got the grunt work. The fact that there wasn't
a larger group of young Americans clamoring to learn a useful trade to provide
for themselves and their families was astounding to me!
After two exciting years (and two bitterly cold winters) of building everything
from power plants, to hospitals, to runways I decided to return to college. At
first I was planning on studying Civil Engineering, which is a fine profession
but entails an inordinate amount of desk work after graduation. Again, with some
guidance I stumbled upon Construction Engineering (At other universities known
by the names of Construction Management, or Construction Technology).
At the University I was shocked by two things
1) College is a business! They
will try to keep you in as long as they can to keep raking in the student fees,
etc. My first academic "advisor" even told me that finishing a bachelors
degree in four years was a pipe dream, and most students took five years these
day! I promptly switched advisors. Students, don't let anyone convince
you it
can't be done in four years or less. I was far from a stellar student in high
school, just barely cracked into the top 50% of my graduating class and I completed
my Bachelor's
degree in four years, while working 30+ hours a week at part-time jobs. This
may
take
a
little extra "hard work" but again, nothing worth having comes easy
and if you're already a preparedness minded individual than this shouldn't be
too much of a stretch for you!
2) A surprising majority of engineering students never worked a trade, and never
held a trade related internship in college! This flabbergasted me to say the
least, how could someone who's never put hands on a piece of lumber or steel
expect to lead workers in a project? Needless to say, come graduation time those
students who continued to work at best buy weren't in the highest demand by employers.
Conveniently enough, my trade training had an added benefit: Rather than having
to work a "typical" part-time job in retail, I always found construction
companies that were willing to work around my college schedule, and pay significantly
above the minimum wage my friends were earning. Which offered the added benefit
of leaving the nights, and most weekends free for studying or socializing.
After finishing school, I attended the Navy's Officer Candidate School and became
a Surface Officer for 5 years. Again, my trade experience gave me a valuable
leg up over my peers. I finished school with no debts, having continued to work
the entire four years but was again surprised to learn that some of my friends
who had been [contracted cadets] in ROTC had massive debts. The ROTC is quite
willing
to
take
C students,
but don't expect to get a full ride! I knew of many officers that finished college
twenty, thirty, even forty-thousand dollars in debt!
Now working as a Project Manager for a large General Contractor I am still surprised
by the lack of interest shown by today's students for the trades. To me, the
work is exciting, doesn't involve a desk, and pays extremely well. Believe me,
we would love to take as many motivated young Americans as we can get our hands
on! Unfortunately, many of them have been sold on the dream that college is for
everyone, it's not, and that isn't a bad thing. I can't say enough good things
about learning a useful trade or skill, It's a job that can never be outsourced,
but unfortunately it is being "in-sourced" by immigrants who are willing
to work hard, harder than most Americans these days.
Mr. Rawles, thank you for your wonderful blog. Very Respectfully, - A Former
C
Student
Jim-
Having recently discovered the site, I am now a daily follower. I find the
advice practical and in keeping with my pragmatic approach to life. The technical
detail is impressive, and the topics wide ranging. There is always something
surprising each day I scroll down the page. I am an architect in New York City, and
find the architectural topics of great interest. The site's take on architecture
is refreshing and seldom discussed or debated elsewhere. I will plow through
the archives and find out what sort of treasures lurk within.
There have been a number of recent letters discussing the issue of college
education. There is a common tone to these letters that suggests that learning
a trade is important, perhaps of greater importance than getting one of those
pricey college degrees. I agree that having useful skills, particularly hand
skills, is important. As for myself, I am a woodworker and carpenter, making
and designing furniture, restoring my house in addition to my architectural "office
job."
Here's my take- college degrees are critical in addition to "pragmatic" skills.
I'm not going to suggest which degree to get, since certain degrees are "more
valuable" in certain parts of the USA and world than others. Architects
are useful in New York City but useless in Nebraska, for example. Two points I want to
stress:
1- My degree "got me noticed" by all my employers. It "got me
a foot in the door" as ridiculous as it sounds. That degree, that piece
of paper, really got me ahead of the mobs on the streets. It's a sad arrangement,
expensive but necessary. Think of that piece of paper as some prized battle
rifle as you soldier through life- it's a tool like anything else.
2- My degree "expanded my mind" beyond the day-to-day, hand-to-mouth
nature of existence. Religion "expanded my mind" as well, but the
concepts and thinking that college introduces rounded me out even more. When
we are all holed up behind steel doors clutching those riot guns, the mind
needs to find release, in addition to prayer and meditation. Art, philosophy,
psychology, medicine, etc. can help.
Keep up the good work! - Freakoscope
JWR Replies: The emphasis on learning a trade in many of
the recent letters overlooks one key issue: At present, someone with a baccalaureate
degree on average will earn $1,000,000 more in their lifetime that
someone with just a high school diploma. So if you plan to work in the corporate
world, then I recommend getting at least a Bachelor's degree. Just make sure
that the degree
is in
something
useful,
where there is a reasonable expectation
that there will be jobs waiting. (Not "bird calling and basket weaving"--as
my father dubbed the useless degrees.) Perhaps the best way
to do
this is
to work
in
a skilled
trade or with an IT certification,
to
work your
way through
college on a five to eight year plan. Graduating debt free at
age 26 or 27 with lots of practical experience will actually make you a much
more desirable
job
applicant than someone that graduates at age 22 or 23 with nothing other than
the degree on their resume. Take as many lower division credits
as possible from a community college
or on-line.
All
that employers
will consider
is
the degree itself,
and the name
of the
institution that eventually grants the degree. So take your first two years
"on the cheap", and then transfer to a more prestigious school.
Odds 'n Sods:
Blacksheep sent us this Army Times article about WoundStat: Army
halts
use of new anti-blood loss product. (Note: So far as I know, Celox and QuickClot
(available from several of our advertisers) are still approved for use in trauma
cases.)
o o o
FloridaGuy sent this "signs of the times" piece from one of the
several states teetering on the edge of bankruptcy: California
Taxpayers Due Refunds
May Get IOUs
o o o s
This piece by Matt Hardigree was linked once before at SurvivalBlog, but
it was so entertaining that it bears repeating: And
Now for Something Entirely Different
- The Ten Best Post-Apocalyptic Survival Vehicles. (Thanks to Jack B. for
the reminder.)
o o o
"N" sent us the link to this essay on self defense against skyjackers
aboard aircraft: Fight
Back. Note that the author's mention of carrying a carbon fiber knife would
be a felony.So it is best to rely on canes, stiff
combs,
and ballpoint pens.
o o o
Eric sent this: Rising desperation as China's exports drop
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"If the jury feels the law is unjust, we recognize the undisputed power
of the jury to acquit, even if its verdict is contrary to the law as given
by
a judge, and contrary to the evidence." - 4th Circuit Court of Appeals,
US
v. Moylan, 1969
Letter Re: Sources for Fasteners for D.I.Y. Web Gear Fabrication
Good Morning, Jim!
I am a long-time regular reader here with a question. On your blog you've been
recently posting about various web gear, etc. I have long desired to build some
of my
own gear using nylon straps and high strength plastic buckles, tensioners,
and adjustment components typically found on outdoor gear. The problem has
been finding a source/supplier for these components. Do you have any recommendations?
Thank You, - John Geerman
JWR Replies: In my experience, piece parts for Fastex buckles
and similar parts are ridiculously expensive
if bought new in small quantities in a "brick and mortar" retail store.
Lower prices can be found in bulk online (for example, at eBay), REI (Fastex
quick release buckles
and
"tri-glides") and Reef
Scuba (for
nylon webbing material). But
I've found
that
it is often best to simply
find "trashed" military
surplus backpacks and well-used older generation Load Bearing Vests (LBVs),
and cannibalize them for their hardware. Check around at your local surplus
stores
to see what
they have.
The Swiss Army surplus waterproof Alpine backpack extensions, for example,
have a profusion of
redundant hardware--including the hardware and straps such as the extraneous
tie-down straps like those designed to hold down a Swiss "Darth
Vader" helmet when stowed on the back of the pack. If you
take
half
of
these
off,
you
still
have
a quite useful
waterproof
bag,
plus
a big pile of male and female Fastex type connectors, short length of
straps, and
tensioners.
Five Letters Re: Home Invasion Robbery Countermeasures--Your Mindset and Architecture
Dear Jim,
Just one caution amid all the excellent advice on hardening a house against
intruders--be sure it's possible to get out from the inside easily in event
of a fire or other disaster. Shutters, or latchable
bars are better for this than those mounted solidly into the structure. Alternately,
consider paying for ballistic glass. - Michael
Z. Williamson
Mr. Rawles,
Thanks for your time and efforts - SurvivalBlog has been a great help to me
and I am planning to mail a 10
Cent Challenge contribution to support your
work.
In the meantime, I thought I would comment on a recent series of postings about "Home
Invasion Robbery Countermeasures" with some of the changes I've recently
made.
The home we recently purchased was a brick ranch, but it had a number of architectural
weaknesses: Double-hung windows with standard weak latches, doors with weak strike
plates, no deadbolts, a flimsy garage door,and two sliding-glass doors. Although
we are in a rural, peaceful location, I have taken several measures to increase
the home security that may be helpful to others.
The flimsy garage door has been replaced by a windowless insulated door with
internal and exterior steel panels.
Each of the exterior doors have had a security storm door with laminated glass
and a 3-point latching system installed (Larson brand from Lowe's). The storm
doors allow opening the entry door and being able to view the surroundings before
unlocking and opening the security door.
I've purchased "Strikemaster II" door strike's to install on the exterior
doors along with good locks and deadbolts so that even if the security storm
doors are breached the steel entry doors are reinforced. I'm also adding a "Strikemaster
II" and deadbolt for the door leading from the garage to the house.
To reinforce the windows, I've had them laminated with an 8mil security laminate
film and an attachment glazing system to anchor the laminated glass to the
window frame. I've also purchased window pins to install so that the window
cannot be
forced even if the sash lock were somehow broken. The sliding glass doors are
also laminated and security bars are being installed. An added bonus is that
the laminated windows have a solar tint to cut summer heat gain by 40% and
with the insulated garage door and the storm doors I anticipate
much lower energy costs.
I am also planning to install a wireless Dakota driveway alarm and gate as
you have recommended. My other plan to increase security is to begin keeping
guinea
hens since they offer a number of benefits to a rural home or retreat - they
are fantastic guards that sound the alarm whenever anything is amiss, they
feed themselves on bugs, ticks, etc. which is great for organic farming, and
they
supply both meat and eggs.
Hopefully some of the ideas I am implementing will be of help to others.
I also recommend getting used heating oil tanks (often available for free
or nominal
cost on Craigslist) and using them to stock up on fuel. Clean the tank, install
a battery operated fuel pump, and buy a supply of fuel while it is cheap
before war breaks out and the price of oil soars again. Thanks again for
all of your help, and Happy New Year. - SteelerFan
Dear. Editor:
In all the talk about using high tech electronic gadgets to protect
against home invasion robberies I am surprised no one has yet mentioned the
tried and
true dog. My choices are Akitas and Great Pyrenees, but just about any medium
to large sized dog will do. Attack and protection training is nice if one
can afford it and is willing to accept the responsibility of such a trained
dog,
but from personal experience, I haven't had a dog yet that would not unhesitatingly
lay it's life down to protect it's family and home.
Do I expect my dogs to stop a home invasion by several armed and determined
thugs? No, I don't. But I do expect them to buy me the necessary seconds
to grab my weapon so that I may. And thank you for a great site, - James
G.
Mr. Rawles,
Many years ago when I worked in security we use to install security window
laminates to the inside of high-risk structures. This laminate bonds to the
glass and works much like the laminated windshield in a car. It is virtually
invisible once installed but can repel ferocious attacks. We used the products
on retail stores and high-end homes that didn't want security bars or shutters
due to aesthetic reasons.
The other nice part of these products are they are always protecting you. You
don't need to shut them like window shutters and they aren't ugly like bars.
They are also very deceptive to intruders who think the window will be an easy
entry point only to find that they can't get through it with a baseball bat
and crowbar. It also provides minor ballistic protection and protection against
blast by limiting glass shrapnel.
There are sites that can install it professionally or do-it-yourself (DIY).
Here are some:
http://www.diywindowsecurity.com/
http://www.shattergard.com/home.html
http://www.armorcoatfilms.com/
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/WF/3MWindowFilms/
Here is a demo
of a DIY window film installation.
Here is another demo of a different
product under more severe conditions.
These products work well on annealed glass (typical glass that breaks into
sharp shards when broken). For use on tempered glass (which is usually a
sliding glass door, as required by most building codes), you will need to
do a special
install to anchor the film to the frame with a specialized caulking.
These products work very well as an alternative to more conventional window
protection. - Craig R.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
It is easy to become an avid reader of your site.
One simple means to beef up home security is simply to reverse entry door opening.
Like commercial code doors, mine open "out" so any attempt to force "in" my
doors has one working against the entire door jamb structure. I prefer steel
1 3/4" thick
doors with any [small] window design at the top, if at all.
I live upstairs in my shop. The access to my apartment is up a stairs and through
a outward opening door as mentioned. Before one intruder gets that far, I am
aware through an old but simple means of alarm. Being that a fine fishing line
trip line is strung each evening across the downstairs floors that is attached
to electric switches. Intruders will trip one or another once inside the building
and I will know by my apartment alarm where they are there long before they
know I am waiting with the pump. - Jon C.
JWR Replies: That does have its merits, but I've always believed
that it is important to have at least one door to a house open inward,
especially in snow country. Someday it might be more than just embarrassing
to get trapped in
your own home.
Letter Re: Safety Note on Modifying Military FMJ Bullets
The article linked at "Box O' Truth Tests Elmer Keith-style
DumDum Bullets" contains a very dangerous statement: "5. Cutting
the end off a rifle Ball [full metal jacket (FMJ)] cartridge projectile will definitely make the bullet expand or
break up..." DO NOT DO THIS! By cutting off the tip off
of a full metal jacket (ball) round you have in effect created a pinched copper
tube, open on both ends, filled with a plug of lead. Upon firing, it is possible
to blow out the lead plug, leaving the tube (jacket) lodged in the barrel.
When the next round is fired, the bullet will encounter this obstruction in
the barrel, causing damage to the firearm and possible personal injury. Commercial
soft point bullets have a solid base to preclude this from happening. Regards,
- John in Colorado
Odds 'n Sods:
Reader Rod McG. recommended this web site: Mappery.com
o o o
I heard from a gent over at The FALFIles Forums that Dan's
Ammo still has
some original FN (of Belgium) Browning Hi-Power 13-round 9mm magazines at just
under $20 each. These were made for the South African Defense Force (SADF),
back in the 1960s,
and were recently surplussed. If you
own a Hi-Power pistol, my advice is to buy at least eight of these magazines
for your
own use, and
another larger pile for barter. You'll probably be laughing about getting
them at this price, this time next year. OBTW, if you hear of any other
importers or dealers that still have any full capacity magazines at pre-BHO
inauguration sales frenzy prices, let me know the details, and I'll mention
them in the blog.
o o o
A limitless Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB)? Now there is talk of bailing out newspapers!
o o o
Bill in Wyoming mentioned the
current swarm of earthquakes going on under Lake Yellowstone-over 250 since
it's beginning on December 26th. The strongest was a [Richter Scale] magnitude
3.8, on December 27th. Some have suggested that this might be a precursor to
a massive
Yellowstone
Super-Caldera eruption. Current updates can be found at the
Yellowstone Volcano Observatory,
as well as links
to seismograms
and
other
monitoring adjuncts.
o o o
I spotted this bit of bureaucratic self-congratulation linked at The
Drudge Report: US
rescue averted 'financial collapse':
Treasury. (This is perhaps a more accurate headline: US rescue delayed 'financial
collapse':
Realist.)
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"For more than six hundred years-- that is, since Magna Carta, in 1215--there
has been no clearer principle of English or American constitutional law, than
that, in criminal cases, it is not only the right and duty of juries to judge
what are the facts, what is the law, and what was the moral intent of the accused;
but that it is also their right, and their primary and paramount duty, to judge
the justice of the law, and to hold all laws invalid, that are, in their opinion,
unjust or oppressive, and all persons guiltless in violating, or resisting
the execution of, such law." - Lysander Spooner, The Right of Juries
Notes from JWR:
The third year for SurvivalBlog has come to an end, with continued strong
growth in readership in
157 countries.
Our stats have tripled in the last 14 months! We've logged 400,000+
different readers, and we now have nearly 5,800 archived articles, letters,
and quotes--all are available
for
free download. Since this is
New Year's Day, here is the one
and only annual
reminder to renew 10
Cent Challenge subscriptions.
For the privacy of my readers, I don't keep records of subscriptions, so I
have no way of tracking when any particular subscription has lapsed. I never e-mail
our subscribers, bugging/begging them to renew. This
isn't PBS, so there are no insufferable Pledge Drives. SurvivalBlog
subscriptions are entirely voluntary. If you realize that
it has been a
year
or more since you
subscribed, and what you get out of reading SurvivalBlog is
still worth 10 cents a day to you, then please send a $36.50
subscription payment via AlertPay, GearPay, PayPal, check, cash, "Forever"
stamps, or money order. (We even get some subscription donations
in silver coins and .45 ACP ammo!) OBTW, please mark your calendar
to remind yourself about subsequent renewals. To all of
you
that
have
subscribed: Thank
you so
very
much!
Our Mailing Forwarding Address is:
Jim Rawles
P.O. Box 303
Moyie Springs, Idaho
83845
Online Subscription Payments:
PayPal: rawles@earthlink.net
AlertPay: rawles@usa.net
GearPay: rawles@usa.net
Happy New Year! I pray that in Aught Nine you and yours are safe,
healthy,
right with God, and well-prepared.
It looks like we're in for some turbulent times. I hope that SurvivalBlog has
substantively helped you to get prepared.
Letter Re: It's a Scary World Out There: Fearsome Attack Hens
Jim,
I recall awhile back you posted a message that offered humor and a bit
of the lighter side of life since we’re inundated with intimidating subject
matter. I haven’t seen too many lighter sided anecdotes of late so here’s
mine. When I was 20 yrs old, I was a paratrooper and foolhardy scared of nothing.
Now, after serving five years as an airborne, ranger, infantryman and 20 years
in law enforcement, I’ve learned to respect dangerous situations.
Recently, my insurance agent dispatched her part time picture-taker to my
residence to snap some pictures of the place to keep records current. I reside
at the point of transition from suburbia and rural life not too far from Washington,
DC. This photographer was approximately 20 years old. Upon arrival telephoned
the home number whereupon my wife answered. He asked her to come outside to
help. She asked "why"? In a semi-scared voice, he reported that he
was "surrounded
by birds" and was afraid that he was going to be attacked. My wife told
him that they were just free ranging hens and that there was nothing to worry
about.
She actually had to convince him that the hens were our pets and that they
wouldn’t ‘attack’ him. I suppose this is funny only if you
own hens and realize how friendly they are. Besides, even if you’ve never
seen a live chicken, can you imagine being scared of one? Happy New Year, -
Pete.
Six Letters Re: Home Invasion Robbery Countermeasures--Your Mindset and Architecture
Greetings Mr. Rawles,
I read your blog everyday and am learning so much. Thanks for your dedication
to helping prepare us for the future.
In reference to the recent article on home security, we lived in Argentina
for three years and we could all learn from their security measures. The first
house we lived in had steel shutters, as did everyone in the neighborhood,
and they were all shut at night. The doors have locks that automatically lock
when you leave the house. The small front yards usually have tall steel fences
with the same height gates. The gates were also locked at all times. Homes
that didn't have shutters of some kind, had bars on all the windows. Big dogs
were also the norm. The back yards were usually walled in by concrete block
walls sometimes 10 feet tall. At our second house, one of our neighbors had
concertina wire around the top of their walls.
It is a normal custom to clap your hands to alert someone you were at their
front gate. It would be very rude to try to enter someone's front yard without
being invited first, and is usually not possible due to the locks and dogs.
But, as new houses were being built, we were seeing less and less of the shutters
and bars, more American style houses were being built and that's a shame.
It was very difficult at first to live with these kinds of security measures,
but after awhile it became normal and comforting to know your house was secure.
Gun control is very strict and very few folks have guns, so home security was
very important.
Just wanted to share those observations with you. Thanks again for your hard
work.
Warmest Regards, - Beverly A.
Hello James Wesley, Rawles:
Feed lot panels are extremely useful for hardening windows against dynamic
entry.
For those who are not familiar with the product, feed lot panels are welded
wire product. They are typically 16 feet long. The height varies but is typically
54" high. The wire is very stiff (typically #4 or #6 gauge) and the wire
is galvanized for long life. The panels are inexpensive and semi-rigid.
We recently replaced a 13' x 69" bay window with a 60" by 60" picture
window (one pane) flanked by a couple of 60" high by 24" wide double
hung windows. Our primary goal was to increase energy efficiency by reducing
cold air infiltration during the winter and to improve our cross ventilation
during
the summer.
I had some fairly extensive conversation with the contractor regarding my desire
to have sufficient "beef" beside each window to be able to run several
5" x 1/2" eye-bolts beside each window (with the eyes of the bolts
aligned in the vertical direction), slide the trimmed-to-fit feedlot panel
over the eye-bolts, and then drop a cane bolt through the openings in the eye
bolts.
(Minor detail notes: Roof overhang requires that cane bolts be inserted from
bottom, but "drop in from top" is a more natural word picture. Also
desirable to use a cushioning material to hold panels away from frame of window
to eliminate scarring. Rubber or vinyl garden hose is a possibility.)
He was very happy to comply. Each window is framed in with 2x4s next to the
window frame, but then a 4x4 was bracketed into the top and bottom headers
immediately beside the 2X4s on each side of each of the three windows. Wood
is cheap.
Feed lot panels can be defeated. But defeating them requires time and tools...not
something typical home invaders want to expend/lug around. Feed lot panels
also help protect windows against airborne, flying trash during extreme wind
storms. They may be ugly, but they are cheap, durable and relatively easy
to install, given proper tools and some time and the foresight to have enough
wood to bolt into. - Joe H.
Jim,
I've already made numerous changes to my home and
property to thwart / limit any would be thefts and boosting the overall
security. A number of
ideas
came from your web site. Thanks.
Other than the simple measures of installing a Radio Shack microphone/speaker
and, locking the doors of my barns with snap links and walking out the front
and locking that door, I am worried for my horses if someone should try to
force their way inside and manage to stay very quiet. I'm very impressed
with my $149 Radio Shack investment, you can hear everything and my house
is 300
feet away.
Can you offer any additional advice on making barns more secure? I'm more
concerned about the horses than all of the tack and saddles. But those items
aren't cheap
either. Thanks, - Pete in Florida
JWR Replies: I do have one specific recommendation: Buy a
MURS band Dakota Alert infrared intrusion detection system. (Available from MURS
Radio, one of
our advertisers). Put one Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) out
at the end of your driveway,
and one "watching" the front of your barn door. We
use Dakota Alerts in conjunction with matching frequency Kenwood MURS band
hand-helds here at the Rawles
Ranch on a daily basis. We have been very satisfied with their
quality and reliability. In our experience, this combination is ideal for detecting
intruders on likely avenues
of approach.
.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First, as always, I am compelled to thank you for your service to all those
who would learn from your knowledge and efforts. My 2009 10
Cent Challenge contribution is forthcoming,
but it is only a small token of my appreciation in light of all that I have
learned from your excellent blog.
I wanted to add a note of my reality to your recent excellent comments on the
sorry state of home architecture in our country today. I live in a typical
recent-construction, middle class, Metro Atlanta home with a brick front facade,
and Hardiplank (a concrete-like product molded to look like wood siding) on
the remaining three sides. It is essentially three stories, with a "daylight
basement" comprising the first story. Many of the "weak links" that
you pointed out exist in my home, but we did install a fairly comprehensive
alarm system.
Last February, while my wife was at work and I was taking my son to daycare
(it was 11:15 a.m.), thugs broke into our house by kicking through the basement
wall! Evidently, the crooks suspected, or noticed, our alarm system, and tried
to bypass it by going through the wall. It would have worked if the dummies
hadn't opened the basement door preparing to depart with their loot. Of course,
opening the door set the alarm off, and they fled never having made it out
of the basement. They did steal an old rifle that I had recently bought, and
had left in a storage closet awaiting a good cleaning. All in all, we were
very fortunate.
I write not to simply share my story (which is, unfortunately, not very uncommon),
but to point out what I learned:
1. Though Hardiplank, and similar products, have many virtues, resistance to
invasion is not one of them.The concrete feel and appearance gives a false
sense of security. I was shocked to learn that the only thing between my "inner
sanctum" and the bad guys was the Hardiplank, fiberboard sheathing, and
drywall! Even if your 1st story sheathing were 5/8" plywood it would present
a much more formidable barrier!
2. If I had heeded my instincts, the burglary could have been avoided. I try
to live in "condition yellow", though I slip into white more than
I would like. That morning, while buckling my toddler into the car, I noticed
a rough-looking young man walking slowly up the sidewalk. By the time I had
buckled my seatbelt, he was ambling back down the street in the opposite direction.
All of the alarms in my head went off, but I didn't call the police to investigate
(something that they encouraged me to do in the future while discussing the
event). I did, however, step back inside and turn on the alarm, which I didn't
usually do for such short trips (things are different now). If I hadn't turned
on the alarm, I would have probably walked right into a home invasion in progress
(stupidly in condition white!) after dropping my son off. As it was, as soon
as I got the call from the monitoring service, I knew exactly what had happened,
and who had done it! During the frantic 3 mile drive home, my main concern
was, "what will I do if I arrive before the police?" At the time,
I had no firearm with me, which leads me to my final point.
3. Any time you walk into your home [after an absence] in condition white,
with no way to defend yourself, you invite disaster. Yes, I know it can be
terribly
stressful
to
admit to yourself that our society has "come to this", and some people
would rather just play the odds and hope it doesn't happen to them. I feel
that God was watching over me that day (by the way, the police were on site
when I got home - it had only been 20 minutes since I left the house) and gave
me a second chance. I guess I could remain in condition white, and hope it
doesn't happen again, but I have responsibilities. God gave me a second chance,
and I am committed to learning from this experience. You'd better believe that
I will arrive home in condition yellow to orange, looking for any hint that
something is awry - especially if my family is in tow! Oh yeah, and my next
house is going to be as solid as I can afford, and then some!
I hope you and yours had a wonderful Christmas, and will have a terrific new
year. Best Wishes, - SH in Georgia
James;
I have been an advocate for survivors of violent crimes. I would like
to point out some things that I have been tracking for almost a year now. (I
have 'home invasions" as a google search alert and get messages on this
topic many times a day). First, I have noticed that most of these invaders
are not so much interested in carting away ill-gotten booty from the residence
that they have invaded as much as the first object is to terrorize and torture
those in the dwelling. This is a major change in the high level of deprived
violence of these burglars who are now being reported as "home invaders".
The attacks are sadistic, whereas, twenty years ago true sadistic attacks
were more rare as the goal seemed to be to steal and leave. Second, these sadistic
home invasions are world wide. I have not yet figured out why this is so. It
is, however, concerning that no place seems safe from this bizarre rise in
sadistic violence. Perhaps it can be linked to violent video games? I am not
sure what else could link these acts world wide. Third, unlike violent home
crimes in years past, the home invaders are attacking during the hours when
it is more likely that the residents are home. (Most of these
invasions seem to take place between 11 PM and 5 AM). Clearly, unlike in early
times when
the criminal element wanted to avoid the residents, this new class of thugs
want that violent encounter.
I think this does require that decent folks to have a change in understanding
what is taking place. These criminals are not just getting the pleasure of
taking your property but they want to cause you and your family extreme fear,
terror, and pain. Passive conduct by the victims that might have allowed these
thugs to rob your home and leave you alone might have worked twenty years ago,
but I think today's home invaders first literally will want a pound of your
flesh. On a positive note, I have also read of numerous residents who have
successfully fended off the invaders by being properly protected within their
homes. I am 'surprised" that the media doesn't seem to do much coverage
of these heroic deeds of the victim defending himself or family members from
these sadistic invasion. - Advocate for Survivors
of Violent Crimes
Dear Mr. Rawles.
Regarding your post on Tuesday December 30, titled "Letter Re: Home
Invasion Robbery Countermeasures". I would like to see you elaborate on
the "Countermeasures" portion of the title. Specifically, could you
show some real examples that people could use as "force multipliers" similar
to this . Maybe you can do a post on with and without grid power in SHTF scenarios.
For example I live in a suburb of a city of about 80,000 people. I live on
a corner lot and have a fenced in back yard. What low-tech methods could I
deploy
to
allow full coverage around the perimeter of my property to signal of coming
trouble. It would help if the ideas were designed to not create an abundance
of false alarms and not alert the surrounding neighborhoods like a trip alarm.
I don't have a retreat location but I'm getting my finances in order to allow
a property purchase soon. If TSHTF tomorrow, I would need some simple ideas
to keep my family safe as long as possible.
BTW, I read your "Patriots" novel
and it was awesome! I am about half way thorough your "Rawles
Gets You Ready" course and it too
is great. Thanks, - Steve F. in Louisiana
JWR Replies: A corner lot is problematic. Depending on the
landscaping that is prevalent in your neighborhood, if it would not look
too out of the ordinary then you might consider planting a
"decorative" thorny hedge around as much of your perimeter as
possible, and install a
gate across the front of your driveway. Make both the
maximum height that you can get away with,
without being branded as the Neighborhood Paranoid Poster Boy. The gate should
have a spiked top of some sort, to discourage gate jumpers. Just inside the
gate, position a passive infrared Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) for a Dakota
Alert. You should also plant thorny
bushes below each of your windows.
Motion-activated floodlights are inexpensive and very easy to install.(They
are available at home improvement and hardware stores such as Home Depot and
Lowe's.) If the power grid goes down, you really should bug out ASAP, but if
you are forced to stay, then solar-powered floodlights might
suffice. (But note that their reviews mention that they have a short service
life. So it is best to just test them but not mount them outdoors until needed.)
Under those circumstances, a pair of night vision goggles would be a must.
(And if you have those, you might want to retrofit your floodlights to use
infrared bulbs. Being battery
powered, your
Dakota
Alert
system
will
continue
to
operate without grid power.
But
of
course keep plenty of spare batteries on had for all of your flashlights
and other home security and communications electronics.
Odds 'n Sods:
Eric sent us this: Car Market Total Collapse
o o o
Mike McD. found two Australian article of interest: Return
of the 1950s housewife?,
and Jobless
heading for 1 million as rate cuts won't avert pain
o o o
The essay Foundations
of Crisis, by Doug Casey was recommended by reader "Hiker LT"
o o o
Eric L. sent this link:
Box
O'Truth Tests Elmer Keith-Sytle DumDum Bullets
o o o
The latest, from Cheryl: World
Markets Suffer Worst Year Ever -- Bankruptcies
to Hit Record in 2009 -- Dr. Doom: Short Treasuries, Buy Hard
Assets -- Faith
in Markets Cracks Under Losses -- Muni Bond Sales Drying Up as States Face $42 Billion Shortfall
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"Once a government is committed to the principle of silencing the voice
of opposition, it has only one way to go, and that is down the path of increasingly
repressive measures, until it becomes a source of terror to all its citizens
and creates a country where everyone lives in fear." - Harry S. Truman,
August 8, 1950
Note from JWR:
It's your last day! More than 675 SurvivalBlog
readers have bought Foodsaver vacuum packing/sealing systems at the special
December $59.99 sale price.
We get
a little "piece of the action" for each order. So this a is a great
way to save money and to support SurvivalBlog in the
new year. Don't miss out on this sale! You can buy a FoodSaver
v2830 for $59.99 (originally $169.99) with free Standard
Shipping for orders over $100, directly FoodSaver.com.Use
code L8FAV28 at checkout. This sale ends at midnight Eastern
Time, tonight. By buying foods in bulk and re-packaging them in more
handy (single meal size) vacuum bags, you can save a lot of money on your grocery
bill. You can also vacuum pack Mason jars! (These come with
a wide mouth Mason jar adapter as an included accessory.) But be sure
to get an additional regular mouth Mason jar adapter, for
an extra $8.99.) Buy a FoodSaver. You'll be glad that you did!
Two Letters Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?
Sir,
College is alarmingly pricey. As a child of the 1970s, I grew up understanding
that you either got a useful degree or paid your own way.
I contend that the most useful education currently is learning a trade.
Welding, auto repair or electrician's certification will pay the bills through
the rough
times
as people
choose to repair instead of purchase. As times get better, some of those trade
school credits may transfer to a college and you are on your way. What is that
architecture degree, but about a year of drafting plus three tortuous years
of art...the discovery of use of light and space...with a dash of engineering.
One of the
coolest people I know, was a blacksmith who got his doctorate in physical chemistry.
You never know where your trade may take you.
Art comes in many mediums that must be learned such as welding for those grand
sculptures that grace the lawns of universities and corporations. Get the "practicals"
under your belt first, while you make a few bucks or barter for your dinner.
Don't forget that the library is free. You should know your reference librarian
as she hold the key to all knowledge or can borrow it from another library
for you. Read. Read everything you can get your hands on.
As you head off to college: Find out all the required courses for your degree.
Does your college allow "testing
out" of any subjects? The last I checked it cost about $75 average to
test completely out of 3 or 4 credit courses. Testing out may not be an option
for "required for major" courses.
If you are still in high school, go for every advanced placement (AP) for college
credit course you dare.
So as you plod away learning your trade that is only vaguely related to you dream
degree, remember: we do what we have to do so that eventually we can
do what
we
want to do.
Now, who is gonna come fabricate some new tines for my tiller? - The Accidental
Survivalist
Sir:
For
more than 20 years I have volunteered my time with unemployed US scientists,
engineers, and computer professionals. Based upon my experiences, I suggest
that young people 1) attempt to have a trade under their belt
before they get a four year college degree; 2) preferably pick a college major
that will allow
one to work for oneself and not as a mere employee; 3) consider mixing two
majors such as getting a teaching certificate and forensic accounting as this
might give one two options for a career. If the student is not committed to
college or unsure what to major in, consider attending a community college
first as it is less expensive. Learning something either in college or via
the trade pre-college that is hands-on work such as plumbing, construction,
roofing, carpentry, welding, aquaculture (fish farming) , farm management,
get commercial driver's license, learn to drive farm equipment, learn to repair
things -- electronics, washers/dryers, etc. Some high schools have working
relationships with community colleges where a high school student can take
college courses while still in high school thus saving lots of money while
living at home. Some schools will allow students to attend high school part
time and learn a trade at the local community college at the same time. Many
high tech professionals in the USA have been told by college career counselors after the
student graduated with his degree in chemistry, physics, engineering, or computer
science that he should consider that degree as nothing
more than
a 'hobby'. Kind of a fun mental exercise but it was foolish of the student
to expect to have dreamed of a career in that field. What you are looking for
is a skill (or skills) that allow you to be self-employed. If the young person
is in college, they should focus on skills that will make them more marketable
--
oral communication
skills, writing, bookkeeping (useful for one's own business), marketing, solid
basic math and computer skills. Having a degree in the medical profession may
or may not make one employable -- I have read of dentists and physicians who
were unemployed during the Great Depression. It is possible that cosmetic surgeons
might be in high demand if there are wars as the victims (military/civilian)
may need reconstructive surgery. Health care professions are still probably
a good bet but it doesn't guarantee a career or stable income. Case in point:
I have a friend whose brother-in-law in California is an allergist and is now
closing his practice because he can't making a living in this specialty. He
is dropping
down to become a Physician's Assistant (PA) and will work for his wife who
is also a physician. He, however, cannot afford to maintain the cost of his
license
as an allergist with fewer people willing to see an allergist in an economic
recession.
Princeton University economist, Alan Blinder (do an Internet search to read
his international presentations) has stated that young Americans should not
waste their time and money (paraphrasing) on a four year college degree. Instead,
American youth should be learning trades that cannot be off-shored. (Unfortunately,
he doesn't raise concerns about the importation of cheap labor.)
One should strive to have a college education that is debt free. No one knows
what the future holds and graduating with an educational debt for a degree
that may or may not provide a job (no longer a career) is a tremendous burden
for a young person to enter the adult world with. When looking for a summer
job or working during college -- try to pass on the burger flipping jobs and
look for work in something where one can enhance a skill such a learning how
to pump out septic systems, car parts shop, working on a dairy farm, landscaping,
etc. I do think that having a college degree is valuable to one's personal
understanding of the world but it is not necessarily essential these days to
earn a living.
I would urge young people, if possible, to complete a four year degree but
not having one is not a sign of failure.
Finally, I also urge parents to help their children to learn basic life skills
-- how to manage the home budget, cooking skills, gardening, car repairs; as
well as learning to be happy and enjoy life. Learn to sing, dance, play some
musical instrument, juggle, something to bring happiness to oneself and to
others. This might sound like it is off topic, but when one is unemployed if
you have these inner resources to pull upon it can literally be life saving.-
Cynthia W. (An informed American on jobs and education)
Two Letters Re: Seeking Advice on Assembling Web Gear
Sir,
In a recent post you mentioned unbuckling your ALICE belt
when going prone. I learned a little trick in ROTC using
a carabiner and two pieces of 550
[parachute] cord. First, adjust belt the
way you want it. Second, tie the two pieces of 550 cord
onto the end of the ALICE belt and hook them together with the carabiner. Adjust
the length of the 550 cord to get the slack needed when going prone. This allows
you to keep your belt buckled but when you need additional slack, just release
the buckle and the 550 cord keeps the belt from flopping around too much. Don't
tie the 550 cord together, as the carabiner allows you to unhook the
belt quickly if you fall into a creek or river and need to dump your LBE -
Bill N.
Dear Jim:
Thank you for referring readers to us for advice on web gear. At BulletProofME
Body Armor we are authorized dealers for Blackhawk and SpecOps
tactical nylon gear, but really our focus is body armor. Normally we only do
quantity orders for tactical
nylon, outside of specific armor-related items we stock. But we can give some
good advice on the questions to ask to help avoid major mistakes.
There is such a huge selection to choose from these days, and so many different
situations, it is hard to give universal advice. Some basic questions are in
order - and probably mandatory to remind “gear freaks” to keep
it practical! ;-) . There is no one right solution, and all solutions have
tradeoffs:
1. What are the possible situations / circumstances ? Under contract for a
year of security duty in “the Sandbox”, or trying to keep the neighborhood
secure during a power outage… As Stephen Covey says, “Begin with
the end in mind".
2. What do you really need to carry? More weight and bulk = less mobility.
versus “two is one, and one is none”.
3. How discreet do you need to be? A basic kit on a belt might be preferred
to avoid the martial image that a full chest and drop
leg rig gives off. On the other hand, if you were doing a ‘Neighborhood
Watch on Steroids” in a post-Hurricane Katrina type situation, you might
want to be more overtly armed and armored to deter looters.
4. In a similar vein, does the setup identify you as one of the good guys?
In a chaotic active shooter incident you don’t want to be the recipient
of “friendly
fire”.
5. Used with, or without a backpack, or day pack?
6. Can you access your most time-critical items standing, kneeling, sitting,
prone - or in a vehicle? (By the way, the practice of putting lots of equipment
on the belly area is a really bad idea when you really need to get low and
prone…)
7. Can you get in a vehicle and drive reasonably comfortably with the rig on?
8. Can you keep your pistol and spare mag in the same place whether it is concealed
carry, open carry, or on a tactical rig? This is so that your pistol draw (and
spare magazine draw) are always the same in your muscle memory. You probably
don’t have the time to do the amount of draw practice you really should
right now - why add another draw to practice? Keep it simple for your muscle
memory with less chance of a slow or fumbled reaction under life-threatening
stress.
A similar line of reasoning applies to rifle magazine pouch placement - keep
it simple and consistent.
For example, assuming you are not a full-time SWAT officer, holsters on
drop legs are probably not such good idea, unless you can really make the time
to practice a different draw stroke until it becomes instinctive under high
stress. (We do recommend drop legs for additional ballistic protection and
secondary pouches.)
A belt
attached to armor is a great idea to keep it consistent, and all one
piece.
9. How fast can you put the gear on? Waking up to the sound of breaking glass
at 3 a.m., or a patrol officer pulling up to a bad scene - then it had better
be fast to throw on. Keeping it to just a belt is faster, or all web gear on one
piece of armor with MOLLE [attachment points].
Some options for speed:
Spare ammo already on the rifle
A “Grab
and Go-bag”
Bandoleers (Note
that these can flop around, but they are very fast to throw on.
Yours truly, - Nick at BulletProofME.com
Odds 'n Sods:
Reader N.L. spotted this useful article at the Backwoods Home magazine
web site: Bury
a gun and ammo for 15 years. (BTW, I consider a subscription to Backwoods
Home magazine for families that are seeking genuine self-sufficiency.)
o o o
Eric flagged this Wall Street Journal piece: Bumpy Crop: Farming's
Sudden Feasts and Famines, As Grain Prices Rise and Fall and Perhaps Rise Again,
Growers Struggle to Navigate
a New Age of Volatility and High Costs
o o o
The Werewolf (SurvivalBlog's correspondent in Brazil) must have been thinking
about the snow-bound Great White North when he spotted this
snow bike and sent us the
link.
o o o
The Economatrix sent all these:
Wall
Street Makes Gains as GMAC Gets $5 Billion
Lifeline --
US
Confidence Sinks to Record Lows --
Home
Prices in 20 Cities Drop 18% in October Alone --
Holiday
Sales Drop to Force Bankruptcies, Closings --
Japan
Banks May Get $110 Billion Bailout --
New
Thai PM Warns of Shattered Economy --
UK
Workers to Face Layoffs and Pay Cuts in 2009 --
Crackdown
on Hedge Funds After Madoff --
Celente: Top Trends 2009 --
People Pulling
Up to Pawn Shops Today are Driving BMWs and Cadillacs --
Annus Horribilis 2009
Jim's Quote of the Day:
"While 2008 will probably be best known as the year that global stock markets
had their values cut in half, it was really much, much more. It was a year
in
