Letter Re: Perimeter Security

HJL,

Regarding the recent articles on perimeter security, I’d like to add my two bits. Get a solar powered motion detector light from Harbor Freight,

Instead of driving the light, have the unit power an HF frequency clock chip like this.

When the security light detects motion, it will power the RF transmitter, sending signals to your HF receiver. All that is needed is the chip, 5.1 volt zener diode with load resistor or 5 v regulator like 7805 or two diodes in series to drop the 6V to 5V just, and an antenna. – MH in Texas





JWR’s Recommendations of the Week:

Books:

Atlas Obscura: An Explorer’s Guide to the World’s Hidden Wonders by Joshua Foer, Dylan Thuras, and Ella Morton

Earth Abides by George R. Stewart

Movies:

Seabiscuit

Victory at Sea (The complete documentary series on three DVDs)

Television:

Survivors (The BBC remake of the Terry Nation television series. This series shows lots of poor choices, which are self-evident. Lesson one: Be armed, constantly.)

John Adams (Miniseries)

Music:

Cold Mountain Soundtrack

20th Century Masters: The Best Of Hank Williams

Instructional Videos:

Gunsmithing – How to Clean a Rifle Barrel Presented by Larry Potterfield

How to Field Strip a Glock

JWR Adds this safety tip: Safe gun clearance is crucial with Glocks because the pistol must be dry-fired before field stripping.

Gear:

Trijicon RS20-C-1900008 AccuPower 3-9×40 Riflescope

Yaesu FT-857D Amateur Radio Transceiver – HF, VHF, UHF All-Mode 100 Watt







Notes for Tuesday – January 03, 2017

On this day, in 1521, Martin Luther– the father of the reformation and founder of Protestantism– was officially excommunicated by Pope Leo X from the Roman Catholic Church.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 68 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The nearly $15,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A $3000 gift certificate towards a Sol-Ark Solar Generator from Veteran owned Portable Solar LLC. The only EMP Hardened Solar Generator System available to the public.
  2. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate that is good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  3. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses, excluding those restricted for military or government teams. Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  4. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chrome-lined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR-type rifle to have a quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  5. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul PMAG 30-rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt; (an equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions),
  6. Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  7. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package (enough for two families of four) plus seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate (a $325 retail value),
  8. A $250 gift certificate good for any product from Sunflower Ammo,
  9. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Tactical Self-Contained 2-Series Solar Power Generator system from Always Empowered. This compact starter power system is packaged in a wheeled O.D. green EMP-shielded Pelican hard case (a $2,400 value),
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  3. A gift certificate for any two or three-day class from Max Velocity Tactical (a $600 value),
  4. A transferable certificate for a two-day Ultimate Bug Out Course from Florida Firearms Training (a $400 value),
  5. A Trekker IV™ Four-Person Emergency Kit from Emergency Essentials (a $250 value),
  6. A $200 gift certificate good towards any books published by PrepperPress.com,
  7. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  8. An infrared sensor/imaging camouflage shelter from Snakebite Tactical in Eureka, Montana (A $350+ value),
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  10. American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) is providing a $300 certificate good towards any of their DVD training courses.

Third Prize:

  1. A Model 175 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $439 value),
  2. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  3. A custom made Sage Grouse model utility/field knife from custom knife-maker Jon Kelly Designs, of Eureka, Montana,
  4. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  5. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  6. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  7. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  8. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a $125 Montie gear Gift certificate.,
  9. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value), and
  10. Fifteen LifeStraws from SafeCastle (a $300 value).
  11. A $250 gift certificate to Tober’s Traditions, makers of all natural (organic if possible) personal care products, such as soap, tooth powder, deodorant, sunscreen, lotion, and more.

Round 68 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Prep Your Ride- Part 1, by J.U.

“The best gun is the one you have with you when you actually need it.” We’ve almost all heard or read that old saying at some point in our lives. It is such a common saying because we all recognize the simple truth inherent in those words. It doesn’t matter how many “tacti-cool” guns you have at home in the safe if you’re miles or just blocks from where you live when you suddenly need to defend your own or someone else’s life. The gear you have with you (or close at hand) is the stuff you’re going to war with when the next emergency, disaster, riot, civil disorder, or whatever craziness to happen kicks off.

Our personal vehicles are absolutely central to our everyday lives. Nearly all of us spend a great deal of time in our vehicles. Our modern life as we know it would not be possible without them. While a reality-TV viewing audience would insist that the best way to spend money on a vehicle would be to “pimp their ride,” equipping it with flashy rims, a bounce-to-the-house hydraulic system, and a stereo that rattles the neighborhood, you can get the jump on any number of TEOTWAWKI-scenarios by “prepping your ride” instead.

Effectively preparing your vehicle for involvement in an emergency scenario is like everything else. It requires some forethought and planning. You already plan and train to defend yourself and your family at home, and you need to put some consideration and training into doing the same thing when you’re on the road.

It’s the old “P6 principle” at work— proper prior planning prevents poor performance. As a former LEO, I’ve gained great insight into “auto preparedness” and am convinced a large percentage of the population never gives any thought whatsoever to their course of action should they experience the unexpected while on the road. Many even have little idea of what to do with difficulties as commonplace as how to change a tire or jump start their car, much less how their vehicle should fit into something as “extreme” as having a survival plan.

Let’s assume you’re someone who sees the benefit of thinking about your vehicle and how you can equip it (and yourself) to operate more effectively from it in the event of a crisis. Let’s first ask a few critically important questions.

Does It Run Reliably?

Maintenance:

We’ll assume your vehicle already runs, as having one that doesn’t is about as effective as trying to eat a soup sandwich under a fire hose. The real question here is, have you maintained your vehicle in good, mechanical working order? The fanciest bug-out kit in the trunk of your car is actually less important under most conditions than your car being a reliable source of transportation. That’s what a car should do, now and under TEOTWAWKI rules, right? If your vehicle can get you from point A to B, you’ll likely never need to use that bug out bag in the trunk.

A poorly-maintained vehicle can leave you and/or your family members stranded by the side of the road at the wrong time and in some bad areas. In other words, poor maintenance and insufficient care of your vehicle’s normal operating requirements can actually create a crisis for you. Society does not have to be collapsing all around you for a situation to be dangerous for you or your family. A simple flat tire or breakdown in the wrong part of town or at the wrong time of day is potentially as dangerous a situation to you personally as a riot or civil disorder might be.

Gas: Your car is going nowhere without gasoline. Given that we all already know that, why do so many people consistently drive around with less than a quarter tank of gas in their car? In a disaster there will be no gas in the affected areas and even in surrounding regions. We all know that people hoard in crisis situations, or even in situations they perceive to be a crisis.

Even a regular power outage means no gas, as nearly all pumps are powered by electricity, and only some stations have a backup source of power—i.e. a generator. Also, without electricity, that credit and debit card in your wallet are nothing more than rectangular pieces of plastic. So, unless you are clairvoyant and know exactly when the next disaster or crisis will strike, it’s a good idea to keep your tank as close to full at all times as possible. It’s an even better idea to have a regularly rotated supply of stored gas treated with a fuel stabilizer on hand. Treated fuel is good for six months to a year before it should be used and replaced by fresh fuel. You need at least ten gallons of treated fuel on hand at home.

Oil/Coolant: Without being lubricated by the proper weight auto oil your owner’s manual recommends, your engine will seize up and your car will go…that’s right you guessed it, nowhere. Ideally, you should know how to change your own oil, but, at the very minimum, you need to know how to find the dipstick and determine whether or not you need to add oil. It should go without saying that you also need to know where to pour the oil into your engine. You should have at least two unopened bottles of the oil your engine requires somewhere in your vehicle. Hopefully, that would be enough to at least get you and your vehicle down the road and out of harm’s way in the event that your car began leaking oil. Know where to pour your coolant if you need to do that. Make sure you have some good heat resistant gloves in your vehicle if your engine has been running. Mechanix gloves are a must for your car’s kit, and they do great “double duty” as tactical shooting gloves too.

Tires: It is the friction between your tires and the ground that makes your car move. If your tires are excessively worn, you are placing your life and the lives of everyone around you in needless jeopardy every single day. In short, you are creating the groundwork for a crisis/emergency. As any law enforcement officer can tell you, even people who change their oil and perform basic maintenance often overlook their tires. They don’t ever look at them, don’t rotate them, and are driving around on borrowed time, riding on bald tires.

You should know (from your vehicle’s manual) what the recommended psi for your tires is and do your best to keep it close to that. You should get into the habit of doing a brief walk-around before you enter your vehicle. This not only allows you to take note of hazardous-to-tires materials on the ground, like broken glass, (and potentially avoid them) but also to do a quick visual check of the state of your tires and of your vehicle in general.

You should know where your car’s jack, the jack’s turn-handle, your lug wrench, and your spare tire are located and how to use them. If the only spare-tire you can locate while in your car is around your waist, you need to train, both physically and with regards to your car and the location of its equipment. I’d definitely recommend buying a 4-way lug wrench to keep in your car. They make removing rusty or pneumatically-tightened lug nuts much easier than the standard lug wrenches that come with your vehicle. It is a good idea to determine which head on the 4 Way lug wrench fits your car’s lug nuts, and then spraypaint that head to allow you to efficiently distinguish it from the three other heads when you’re changing a tire at night beside some poorly-lit stretch of road.

Some Emergency Items Every Vehicle Should Have:

  1. Good Jumper Cables: Train in the use of good jumper cables. Write down the procedure on a 3×5 index card and laminate it. Punch a hole in the card’s corner and attach it to the cables with a zip tie or paracord. You may already know how to use things like jumper cables, but does your wife? Does your daughter? How about under stress in the dark while it’s raining?

    Think about anyone who might have to use such equipment, and never assume they know how to use it safely and properly. It’s like the saying goes, “Never assume anything.”

    One of the best alternatives to jumper cables are battery packs, like Duracell’s Powerpack 600. They can be safely stored in your vehicle and can be used to quickly jump start your engine without the need to find someone willing to give you a jump. The Duracell powerpack can also inflate tires and more, so the end-user (you) has extended capability out of this single platform. Buy two of them, because as the saying goes, “two is one and one is none,” and because you can keep one being charged at home and swap it out with the one riding around in your vehicle every few days.

  2. A Spare Gas Can: A five-gallon size should be more than sufficient. Two to three gallon size cans are likely better, as they take up less room in your trunk and carrying a full five gallon can might prove challenging for smaller and weaker individuals, especially if they have to carry it over any distance. Remember, if you’re using this piece of kit, you’ll be walking. While an empty gas can is light, humping a full one on the way back to your car will be a different story. Most service stations don’t carry such cans regularly; selling snacks and soft drinks is a more profitable use of their shelf space. You can’t count on someone happening along anytime soon who will have one that they’ll let you use.


Letter Re: Growing Pineapples

Mr. Hugh,

This is a very good post on growing pineapples. We have grown them in similar manner for several years. We don’t root ours in water but place them in large (3 gallon) pots with very moist potting soil. They are repotted as needed into larger pots to complete their growing time. Be sure to let the base of the “top” dry out as G.J. says. We prefer raising them in the pots because they can be moved easily to a warmer location as needed, weeds aren’t a problem, and the moisture is better controlled during times of drought. As G.J. said, they taste unbelievably good. We have a person in our group who visits Hawaii regularly. When she tasted a bite, her eyes lit up and she said “Wow, it tastes like it is fresh from the field”. It was cut and sliced two hours earlier. This plant is a very good antidote to monotony in a food shortage. Plus, by replanting the top, you always have a renewable “seed source”. M.R.



News From The American Redoubt:

RTG Parts (in Sheridan, Wyoming) has expanded their product line. They are best known for their amazing variety of parts and accessories for Heckler and Koch (HK) rifles. But they also stock AK, Uzi, Walther P.38, Tokarev, and other parts as well as magazines for quite a wide assortment of rifles and pistols. They sell via mail order, nationwide. I’ve being doing business with them for many years, and I highly recommend them. – JWR

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Timelapse shows growth in Inland Northwest since 1980s

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Montana: Woman kills self in suspected DUI stop in Columbus

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Mountain Lion Kills One Dog, Injures Another In Ketchum

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High winds blast central Wyoming, expected to slow slightly in coming days



Economics and Investing:

A great story from when America was still the Land of Opportunity

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Outlook For Coal Unlikely To Improve. The election of Donald Trump as the President of the United States is bound to impact many segments of the economy, but coal is unlikely to be one of them.

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Do Central Bankers Know a Bubble When They See One?

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2016: An Unpredictable and Wild Year

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.



Odds ‘n Sods:

These doomsday shelters for the 1% make up the largest private bunker community on earth. – G.G.

JWR’s Comment: Survivable, (short term) yes. Defendable? Perhaps. Cost effective? Probably not. (Since they will be leased, not owned.)

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Beware, folks! There are now counterfeit Rawles XL Voyager knives being produced in mainland China. Note that there are four different blade styles for these Rawles fakes—and Cold Steel only made one style. And they never used D2 steel! Fake, fake, fake! Please report these to eBay when you see them advertised, and of course never give the counterfeiters any of your hard-earned money for this junk. – JWR

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Millennials lack basic survival skills compared to older generations – G.G.

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Sugar for Wounds: Do You Have It in Your First Aid Kit? – DSV

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Your Government at work: EPA to sub-freezing Alaska: Stop burning wood to keep warm – H.L.







Annual Reminder: The Ten Cent Challenge

I only post one reminder about voluntary Ten Cent Challenge subscriptions each year, and this is it. Please keep in mind that to operate SurvivalBlog we have considerable expenses for bandwidth, web hosting, our backup site, software, and legal fees. The most recent new expense has been liability insurance. (We live in a very litigious society, and we were targeted in a frivolous defamation lawsuit, which is still pending. I am confident that we will prevail, but the attorney fees have already been substantial.) If you find that you get more than 10 cents worth of value per day in reading SurvivalBlog, then please donate 10 cents ($36 per year) to help support the blog’s costs. There are several payment options including PayPal, cash, checks, U.S. postage stamps, and even mailing a few silver dimes. (Most folks send five or six pre-1965 silver dimes taped to a scrap of cardboard.) Only about 1% of readers are Ten Challenge subscribers. Please join in, and do your bit. Your contributions are needed and greatly appreciated! – JWR



H&R Pardner Protector Shotgun, by Pat Cascio

The first shotgun I ever owned was a Harrington & Richardson single shot shotgun in 16 gauge, and I’m here to tell you that thing really kicked because it was such a lightweight gun. I was a pretty skinny 16-year-old kid, too. I took it pheasant hunting a number of times, and it never let me down. I don’t recall whatever happened to that shotgun, whether I traded it, sold it, or what.

There is a lot of controversy over what type of firearm a person should buy first for survival purposes. Of course, we have to define in our own minds what type of survival you are talking about. Many experts claim that the first firearm you purchase should be a shotgun of some type, because they are versatile. Some are, but some aren’t. I used to tell folks many years ago that they should purchase a “riot” shotgun first for their survival firearms battery. I’ve long ago stopped recommending that. Not to get off the subject, but I believe a good, semiauto .22 LR long gun should be your first purchase. You can take care of a lot of chores and even self defense with a .22 rifle. However, that’s for another article at another time.

I still recommend that folks purchase some kind of pump-action 12 gauge shotgun for their survival battery, because it is also extremely useful for a number of chores. You can certainly take small game as well as big game with a shotgun loaded with the correct ammo. Of course, there are light game loads for bird hunting and small game and double 00 buckshot for self defense, and then we have slugs for the biggest game. I recommend that folks purchase a shotgun on which you can swap out the barrels, maybe one that can be had with an 18.5-inch “riot” barrel and a longer 26-28 inch barrel for taking water fowl or turkey. They are quite a bargain if you shop around. On the other hand, a shotgun with an 18.5-inch barrel can also be used for taking water fowl. Your range is limited, as is the choke. Most “riot” shotguns have a cylinder bore barrel, which can’t be changed. Still, it is a useful gun for a lot of chores.

The gun shop I haunt on a regular basis usually has quite a few used and new shotguns on the racks, and they know that I’m a bargain hunter. If the deal isn’t “good” I have no interest. I don’t care if the shotgun is new or used; it has to be priced right for me to even look closely at it. I ran across a like-new, probably 98% as-new, H&R Pardner http://www.hr1871.com/Firearms/Shotguns/pardnerPump.asp 12 gauge “riot” shotgun with an 18.5-inch barrel with black synthetic furniture. I appreciate synthetic furniture in my neck of the woods, where we get a lot of rain, which can warp wood stocks.

This particular H&R is called the Pardner Pump Protector, and it is a pump-action shotgun. It has the cylinder bore barrel that allows the 00 buckshot to spread out quite a bit, and with the 18.5-inch barrel it is fast maneuvering. The chamber holds both 2 ¾” and 3” shotgun shells. I’ve never found a lot of need for magnum loads for my purposes. The forearm is black synthetic, and the end cap is ready to accept a sling swivel along with the sling stud on the butt stock. The butt stock is also black synthetic and has a nice ventilated recoil pad to help absorb the shock of full-powered 12 gauge loads.

The barrel has a gold-colored brass bead front sight, and the receiver is drilled and tapped for a scope base. I don’t know that I’d put a scope on a “riot” shotgun, but some might do so. Many shotguns today have an aluminum receiver, and the Pardner Protector is different in this respect. It has a carbon steel receiver, which does add a bit more weight to the gun, but the weight is welcome when shooting heavy loads. The magazine tube hold 5-rds of 2 ¾ inch sized shells and one more in the chamber; though that’s one less in the tube when using 3-inch shells. The gun weighs in at 7.5-lbs unloaded. The gun is made in China, which bothers some folks but not me. It is a high-quality shotgun that will last you a lifetime. We live in an global economy, and it is difficult to not buy “made in China” products these days.

The pump action operates with two slide bars. Some shotguns only use one slide bar. I’ve seen it happen, many times under stress or when “pumping” the slide hard and fast, that the single slide bar will bend on you, tying up your gun. So, dual slide bars are an added feature, if you ask me.

I added a couple shotgun shell holders to my Pardner Protector so I can have some extra ammo on-board at all times. I used a stick-on shell holder that could hold either four or six shells, depending on the size of the receiver and the butt stock. I’ve never had one of these stick-up shell holders come loose from any shotgun. This gives me six rounds on the butt stock, four on the left side of the receiver, five rounds in the tube, and one in the chamber, which should be more than enough ammo on-hand to take care of a threat. I also added a sling to the gun.

The reason I tell most folks to go with a pump-action shotgun is because they are simple to operate, and there isn’t a lot of things to go wrong. I’ve seen more than my share of semiauto shotguns have a lot of problems, especially when it comes to different loads. Some will only operate with certain types of loads. You need a gun that will function with everything, and a pump-action shotgun allows this without fail.

The Pardner has the cross-hatch safety behind the trigger guard, which is great for right-handed use, but it’s a little slow for those of you who are left-handed. The slide release is in front of the trigger guard where it should be. If you need to empty the chamber and magazine tube, you simply press in on the slide release, and the shells will be ejected through the chamber. Ejection is on the right side of the gun and very positive. Some shotguns eject from under the receiver.

There is some contention, when it comes to the useful range of 00 buckshot loads. Some say that they are only effective out to 25 yards; some say 40 yards. I don’t have a dog in this fight. I’m with the majority and think 25-30 yards is about maximum killing range for 00 buckshot loads. Then we have those with rifled slugs firing out to 100 yards. I don’t see that happening. Rather, I think maybe 75 yards is about max, unless you do have a scope on your shotgun. Using the itty-bitty bead front sight doesn’t really give you a great sight picture. And, let’s keep in mind that this is a shotgun and not a long-range high-powered precision rifle. Experiment with your own shotgun and different loads, and see where it hits at different distances and what kind of penetration you can get in plywood and/or plastic milk containers filled with water. Then you’ll have an idea of your limitations and the limitations of the shotgun shells you are using.

Many people think that the “riot” shotgun is the ultimate home defense weapon. I have to disagree with that. Have you ever tried working your way through your own home with a shotgun in hand? It is harder than you think. Then again, if you are simply taking up a defensive position in your bedroom, the shotgun is a great tool to taking care of bad guys. To be sure, there is no perfect firearm for all your needs!

I ran several hundred rounds of slugs, 00 buckshot, and various target and light game loads though my Pardner, and it never missed a beat so long as I didn’t short-stroke the pump-action. and I never did. The gun ran 100% of the time. I don’t like to talk “accuracy” when talking about a shotgun. Remember, they “pattern”, not group! But everything I aimed it I nailed, and I could shoot the gun fast, too.

My used but as-new H&R Parnder Protector was only $150 out the door at my local gun shop, and it was deal. I keep the receiver and barrel coated with Barricade to help prevent rust since we get a lot of rain eight months out of the year in my area of Oregon. I swear by Barricade! If you’re in the market for an all-steel “riot” shotgun, take a close look at this import from China. You could do a lot worse, in my humble opinion.

– Senior Product Review Editor, Pat Cascio