Retreat Selection–Industry and Agriculture

I’ve had several e-mails WRT to my post on Friday (August 19) titled “Seek a Diverse Economy.” To clarify, this is important whether the scenario is mild or severe. To be suitable for a retreat, a local economy must be sufficiently diverse. It should include small scale agriculture with a wide variety of crops, and some livestock raising. As previously stated, a vegetable “truck farming” region would be ideal. Single crop regions (monoculture) make a poor second choice. Because long distance commerce may break down (due to lack of fuel or lawlessness) it might be difficult to trade locally grown wheat for vegetables from the next county, and so forth. If an area also produces grass hay, alfalfa, and timber, even better! And, as noted in previous blog posts, all crops must be grown without the aid of electrically pumped irrigation water.

A viable local industry or mining are important in the event of a “slow slide” scenario in which the power grid is intact. In the event of a deep, prolonged recession or a depression similar to the 1930s, the payroll from local industry will be important. Without it, even if families are able to feed themselves with truck farming, there won’t be sufficient cash available to pay for their mortgages (or rent), seed, tools, fuels, sundries, and property taxes. Conversely, if a community is dependent on local industry or mining and has NO agriculture, it would be a horrible place to be in the event of a long term worst-case grid-down TEOTWAWKI situation.

Letter Re: Michael Moore on Herbs

Well done, Mr. Rawles!! Excellent info. I have been involved in survival skills for the last 30 years (former U.S. Army survival instructor) and have been a student of herbal medicine and wildcrafting for many years. I have an excellent source for herbal medicine information. The web site that belongs to the herbalist Michael Moore (no, not THAT Michael Moore!) has tons of downloadable material which has an incredible amount of free herbal medicine information. I certainly hope this info may be of help to you and the survival minded community in general. Best Regards and may God bless you. – R.L.

A Few Comments On Developing Your Shooting Skills, by Christian Souljer

Most of your readers probably know most of the following by now, but for the sake of those for those who have not grown up hunting and have not had the luxury of being able to shoot often and learn the information below. Please note that my goal is not to show what I have learned, but to help those who may have missed these facts along the way to consider what they need to do in order to become more prepared:

Guns are one of the highest priorities on most survivalists’ buy lists, yet many people are not fully experienced on how they will work under field conditions. Some of us have grown up shooting and hunting all our lives. Other folks have only shot their guns once or twice and may not realize a few facts that could bring about negative consequences if they ever had to count on their firearms.

As a hunter, I work reasonably hard at becoming a good long distance shot. Over the years I meet and get to know folks from gun shows or at the local range – many of whom seem to be relatively well on their way in their preparations, I am amazed to find out how many of them have misunderstandings of “shooting skills”. For example, several people I know have multiple rifles, but have not ever fired them, yet consider them part of their “home defense arsenal”. The don’t really know if they would function or not, and what ammo will shoot well and what ammo will fail to function in the semi-automatic actions. Others, have ammo cans filled with mixed loose rounds, some may be good, some bad but all are UNTESTED but “believed to be good”.

Most folks I talk to do not understand that different types of ammunition and even different lots of the same brand ammunition can have different points of impact on their target. Some are very different points (up to 12 inches variance at a hundred yards!) – even with the same bullet weights. This can be especially true if you are comparing some of the Chinese or Russian ammo to European or US made NATO stuff. It’s a little hard to believe, but even a few ex-military guys who are used to shooting whatever they were given don’t realize this.
Other factors such as ambient temperature, barrel temperature, uphill/downhill shooing, and wind can have a big effect on bullet point of impact. The effects of all of these factors get multiplied when you are shooting long ranges. I heard another fellow say he only had short range weapons because he would only be shooting short distances (100 yards or less). If we do have to defend our home and country – we should do it at long distance if at all possible so that we can hit our targets but we cannot be hit. It is also quite important to know the distance you are trying to shoot at. If your rifle is zeroed at 100 yards (I recommend 200 yards) you will probably need to hold a little high at 300 yards. Sometimes in “big country” the distance you are shooting may be much longer or even shorter than you think and it is easy to shoot under or over your target. A range finder can be invaluable for determining the distance to your target, and therefore getting a correct aim point on your target.

In conclusion: I encourage all those who are not rifleman to get out and function test their weapons with the ammo they have on hand. Buy your ammo in bulk, getting as much as you can from the same lot. Test and know the difference between the ammo you have for each gun you own. Shoot at as long of distances that you can once you have your rifle zeroed in. Know the trajectory (the path of the bullet your shooting) at the various distances you may plan on shooting. Practice shooting close, medium and long distances and know where your bullets will hit. Shoot in the various field positions – prone, standing, seated, kneeling, etc. Know that shooting from a barrel-mounted bipod usually results in shots that hit in a different place on the target than when shooting offhand or some other standard rifleman method.

Don’t forget to check you rifle’s zero from time to time. Things can change; scopes can shift – especially when traveling bumpy roads. Even different forms of lubrication can affect your guns over time. Check how well your scope does in low light (near dawn or dusk).

Practice regularly. Test your gear and KNOW that it works. Then leave it clean, properly lubricated, and ready for use when the time comes.

Letter from G.T. Re: T.H.’s Letter on G.O.O.D. Vehicle Alternatives

Jim,

Regarding driver’s licenses for weight classes: The “Class D” that T. H. refers to seems to be for a specific state – and states have all sorts of differing laws. Case in point, I’ve got a Deuce and a half [an Army surplus 2.5 ton 6×6 cargo truck] , 13,450 curb weight, and 23,450 all up. Technically, it’s under the weight limit for federal commercial vehicle ratings, so federally I don’t need a commercial license. However, living in one of the great Nanny states, I’ve had to deal with getting a Class B Non-Commercial license to drive this truck. California classifies trucks under 26,000 GVW or so as non-commercial, if they’ve got two axles. Deuce and a halfs have three axles, ergo, they’re “commercial” according to California. But fortunately since mine is registered as a “Historic Vehicle”, I’m OK with just a Class B (Commercial) Non-Commercial license. This [California axle count rule] holds true even for motor homes, and all the way down to something like a WC-63. -G.T.

JWR’s Comment: There is some good information on military surplus vehicles at the MVPA website. I also recommend Dave Uhrig’s website as a great source for vehicles.

Letter Re: Asian Avian Flu

While we all hope and pray that a human to human strain of Avian flu doesn’t happen, do not forget that the major form of transmission of this disease is between fowl.
Water fowl especially. Since chickens don’t fly very far, waterfowl seem to be the primary carriers of this flu from country to country and county to county. What that means is that should it start to spread across your country (wherever that may be) your chicken flock is at risk of getting the stuff themselves unless you plan ahead.

Chicken coops that are enclosed from other birds are a must. The use of 1/4″ hardware cloth instead of typical chicken wire is necessary [to prevent small wild bird from entering your poultry pen.] If you are range feeding your chickens you may have no choice but to pen them up away from wild birds droppings. A vaccine for chickens has been developed but I don’t know how long it will be before being available to the small “hobby” farmer.

A further note on vaccines: It was reported on CNN that a vaccine had been developed against avian flu for humans. What they aren’t telling us is that this vaccine may not even help at all if the avian flu mutates drastically into a form that passes from human to human rapidly. They are hoping that the new vaccine will give just enough immunity to drop the fatality rate from the current 80 percent. A vaccine cannot be made for something that doesn’t yet exist! – B.W.

Letter from Old Sarge Regarding Prescription Drugs

Sir : You mentioned this subject on an earlier blog post, but I think it is so important that I would like to see it addressed.

Post-TEOTWAWKI, we will probably be on our own for an extended period of time, and dependent on our knowledge and training, much of which can be garnered here at this excellent website.

My question is: how can we find out which medicines – antibiotics, pain relievers, etc., acquired legitimately of course, are appropriate to our survival situation? I understand your general provisos and accept them, but how do we “snuffys” get this info which is so critical to our survival? In my personal experience, the vast majority of medical professionals are unwilling to say much due to liability, etc.

My questions would be: Which of each Rx is recommended, how much of each, and the realistic storage life if kept cool, dark, and dry – like in a survival stash. Diagnosis and dosage can be ascertained by a survivalist pro (medically trained), or medical manual (like the Merck Manuals), or PDR, or personal experience.

I would encourage any medical pro, and I’m sure several must read this blog, to contribute to the rest of us. When it’s post-WTSHTF, we’ll be your only patients!!

Semper Fi, – Old Sarge

JWR’s Reply:
 Regarding, herbal medicines, I recommend the book From The Shepherd’s Purse. Another useful resource is Michael Moore‘s website (coincidently mentioned in another letter today). Regarding prescription drugs, I concur that get every reader should get a copy of the latest edition of the Physician’s Desk Reference (PDR). A full set of the Merck Manuals is another must. OBTW, I mention several other highly recommended medical references on my Bookshelf page, including:

  • American Red Cross First Aid
  • Where There is No Doctor, by David Werner
  • Where There is No Dentist, by Murray Dickson
  • Emergency War Surgery (NATO handbook) Dr. Martin Fackler, et al.

My philosophy is to store as many medical supplies as I can afford, and, as they near their near their expiration dates to rotate them out–donating the old stocks to medical missionaries.

There are some approaches that can be taken to minimize the frequency/expense of rotation. Some items such as isopropyl alcohol and baking soda essentially have no expiration date. I tend toward the old-fashioned method of bandaging wounds–using separate gauze and bandage tape rather than modern self adhesive bandages. Since gauze stores indefinitely, all that I need to do is buy a few fresh rolls of bandage tape once every two or three years. And BTW, if you ever find a medical (ultra-cold) freezer for sale as surplus, jump on it!

I am confident that one of the several doctors that regularly read this blog will e-mail me some other references and specific recommendations on exact varieties and quantities of medications to store. (For their privacy I will of course keep their comments anonymous.)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"America is sliding deeper and deeper into a politically correct, scholastically indoctrinated, regulated, credentialed, homogenized and degenerate hole. If catastrophe does not interrupt this decline (as it surely will), then America shall become a land of subhuman semi-illiterates, utterly dependent on government, profoundly alienated from one another and entertained to the point of stupefaction." – J. R. Nyquist

The Pre-Test and the Ultimate Test

There may come a day when you have to put all of your training and preparations to use. That will be ultimate test of whether or not you have a true survival mindset. Do you think that you are ready for WTSHTF, physically and mentally? Assuming that you live in the suburbs, try a weekend “grid down” test with you family. This will test both your mental preparedness and how well you have prepared for the basics. Here is how it is done: Some Friday evening, unannounced, turn off your main circuit breaker and shut the valves the gas main and the water main. Leave them off until Monday morning. You might be surprised how the weekend goes. One thing that I can guarantee you: Some of the most accurate lists of logistics that you will ever compose are those written by candlelight.

Now, assuming that your weekend test goes well, extrapolate to a situation where your entire community is in the same circumstances. Then add to that some turmoil: bullets are flying and perhaps there is even the occasional stray mortar round. The recent civil wars in Kosovo and Macedonia are good points of reference.

Lessons Learned from Kosovo

The following are lessons that can be learned from the recent civil wars in the former Yugoslavia:
#1:
Pray, repent, and obey God’s commandments. I fervently believe that God will put his covenant people in the right place with the right friends at the right time. Read the 37th and 91st Psalms! If you are a Christian but a backslider, repent and renew your Christian walk!

#2:
If at all possible, don’t become a refugee. Refugees have a short life expectancy. If you have done any reading about the many wars of the last century you will note that many of them caused massive dislocations of civilian population. The last category I want to be in is “refugee.” In war, life is cheap and refugees are vulnerable to untold horrors.

#3:
No matter what happens, blend in. Remember the old Japanese proverb: “The nail that sticks up gets hammered down.”

#4:
In the event of a civil war, decide early on if you and yours will be combatants or if it is the time to bug out. Make that decision early, and then don’t hesitate. Those who left Macedonia early on were able to take some possessions with them. But those who waited too long had little more than the clothes on their backs.

#5:
Stock up on key logistics for your family, in quantity. Consider what you will need for a situation that will last for months or even years.

#6:
Most importantly, always have a plan B, and a plan C. (Because Plan A is not always a sure thing.)

Offshoring–The Handwriting is On the Wall

A recent article about job offshoring at Yahoo Business was some serious FFTAGFFR. The global economy is undergoing nothing short of a full scale paradigm shift. Ten years ago I was anxiously looking forward to the day when I could telecommute from out in the boonies in Idaho, and yet still make a good salary. However, the advances in telecommunications have allowed bottom line-driven corporations to leapfrog beyond setting up their American information workers as telecommuters. Instead, they contract out to teleworkers in Third World countries. Increasingly, most new customer service call centers are being set up not in low cost Arkansas, but instead in in ultra low cost India. Likewise new software development centers are being set up not in low cost Oregon, but instead in in ultra low cost Pakistan or Communist China. I expect this trend to continue. And with university systems expanding in the Third World there will be no shortage of high tech teleworkers in the Third World. The University of Bangalore cranks out tens of thousands of programmers every year that are gleeful at the prospect of earning a whopping $10,000 a year and willing to crank out beau coup lines of code, working 60 hours a week, sitting elbow-to-elbow with their co-workers. At $10,000 a year, they can afford to live in a nice house and have a lower caste servant to do the washing. (Someone who is willing to work for $300 a year.) If you work in high tech, my advice is to maneuver yourself into an offshoring-proof job. There aren’t many of those. Note, however, that offshoring is impracticable in any job that his highly dependent on face to face contact. It is also unlikely for offshoring to occur in some highly regulated sectors or such as banking, gaming, and defense. (At least the defense jobs that require a security clearance.)

Beretta 9mm Model 92/Centurion Owners — .40 S&W Kits Now on the Market

I have always considered 9mm Parabellum (also known as 9mm Luger) marginal at best at stopping two-legged predators. For those of you that own a 9mm Beretta Model 92 or Beretta Centurion, be advised that Beretta USA now produces a .40 S&W conversion kit for your pistol. These are complete “top halves” and come with one 11 round .40 S&W magazine. The folks at CDNN currently have these factory-made conversion kits on sale for $149.99. Since these kits don’t include a frame, no FFL is required. If you are one of those folks that has a Beretta 9mm that you don’t shoot much, or if you have both a Beretta 9mm and any other pistols in your battery that are chambered in .40 S&W, I recommend getting one of these kits. The .40 S&W is a fairly reliable stopper. (Not quite up to the benchmark of .45 ACP, but sufficient.) Make sure that you specify M92 or Centurion length when you order.

One key proviso: You should line up a supply of Beretta factory made Model 96G (.40 S&W) 10 or 11 round magazines before you order a conversion kit. Parenthetically, I would consider 5 spare magazines a bare minimum–but 10 or 12 spares should probably meet your comfort level. After you’ve made the switch, I recommend greasing up your old 9mm top half and all of your 9mm magazines with R.I.G. Then seal them up in double plastic bags with a little silica gel desiccant inside the inner bag for good measure. Tuck them away in an ammo can–right next to those cans full of 9mm ammo that you can now resign to the category of ballistic wampum. OBTW, I recommend that you consider having a set of Meprolight or Trijicon tritium sights installed on your new .40 top half. Lay in a supply of at least 1,200 rounds of .40 S&W if your Beretta will be your secondary handgun, or at least 2,500 rounds (or more) if it will be your primary handgun.

Letter from T.T. On Axe and Maul Handles

“There’s nothing like a nice piece of Hickory.” – Clint Eastwood, in Pale Rider

Jim:
I grew up with burning wood for heat. My grandfather had a big old “octopus” looking wood burner in the basement. The heat was nice and even. After growing up and moving away with my family, I have always had a wood stove of some type and I do not feel prepared for winter unless I have a good wood supply.

My issue is with the axes. We will be using to trim and split the wood we are putting up. Now is the time to buy plenty of handles for your axes, splitting mauls, and gardening tools. You will find many axe heads after the crash but handles will be scarce. I extend the life of my axes and mauls by wrapping fiberglass tape just behind the head for about 6 inches. This is the area of the ax handle that gets the most abuse and will save you from replacing the handle prematurely. I have tried 18 gauge copper wire soldered, and duct tape. The copper held up the best but was difficult to put on. The duct tape was not strong enough and still let the handle break with a bad strike. The best compromise I have found is the fiberglass tape at least 4 layers deep. The tape is cheap. I do not like the feel of the fiberglass handles available and it is tedious to remove the epoxy and fiberglass from the head. You can break a fiberglass handle! Have extra wooden wedges and rasps to set a new handle. The metal wedges can be reused. After an extended period of storage, the wood dries out and the head is loose. Just soak the head in a bucket of water for at least several hours to overnight. The wood will swell and grip the axe head. I do not recommend applying any epoxy between the handle and head. This will make it difficult to replace the handle..- T.T. in Northern Idaho

Letter from The Army Aviator Re: EMP Countermeasures

Jim:
 Thank you for writing “Patriots”. I re-read my copy at least yearly and it is very dog-eared and highlighted. I currently have 2 – 3 years worth of wood under cover and today I was adding a little. This fits in with the latest posts to your blog. I’ve been ignoring reality for awhile now on one subject. Here is a point regarding EMP protection. I carry my portable printer, laptop solar charger, manual squeeze charger, floppy drive adaptor, CD/DVD RW, et cetera in a shiny aircraft aluminum foam lined case which I keep in the truck because yuppies and socialites look at you funny otherwise.

My laptop has a great yuppie accepted case…….. except it’s fabric. So for my laptop I ordered in a foam lined, aircraft aluminum case in yuppie acceptable black. If I’m going to carry it around like I always do, I might as well protect it.

Most stuff will live in a foam lined, well sealed metal case whether it’s grounded or not. The rest of it will become boat anchors. I can’t believe that I put off this easy-to-do thing.
This is a good source for a solid laptop case–not a riveted style which tend to be RF porous.

Seems to me you said “Hindsight is 20/20”. Guess a little foresight wouldn’t hurt. 🙂 – The Army Aviator