Notes From JWR:

The high bid is currently at $250. in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction that ends at midnight tonight. This auction is for a fully tested and recently professionally calibrated U.S. government surplus Civil Defense CD V-717 fallout survey meter with remote sensing capability. The meter was donated by Ready Made Resources (one of our first and most loyal advertisers).Please submit your bid via e-mail.

Today we welcome our newest advertiser, Mountain Brook Foods of Tracy, California. As previously mentioned, they are currently offering the following discounts to SurvivalBlog readers only, for in-stock items:
20% off Orders of $100 to $249
30% off Orders of $250 to $499.99
40% off Orders over $500, not to exceed $2,500.
To place your order go to www.mountainbrookfoods.com. There you will see there full line of storage foods and books. Note, however, that their web site lists only their standard pricing. To get the SurvivalBlog October special pricing, enter “SurvivalBlog” as the coupon discount code. If you have any questions about this special offer or any their products you can contact Mountain Brook at: support@mountainbrookfoods.com or call toll free: (877) 668-6826.



Letter Re: Advice on Ammunition and Precious Metals for Barter?

Jim:
Some thoughts with regards to the following [from JWR]: “If and when you want to buy (via barter) a gallon of kerosene, a box of ammunition, or a can of beans, then gold is inappropriate. How would someone make “change” for a transaction that is priced at 1/100th of the value of a one ounce American Eagle or one ounce Krugerrand gold coin? With a cold chisel?”
While I feel that the advice given, namely to use pre-1965 silver dimes, is sound, I want to comment on the above, since it is grossly misleading. For starters, everyone seems fixated upon the “one-ounce”
coin, and completely lost is the fact that smaller weights are quite possible. Folks, it’s a metal! You can make it any darn size or weight you want! The US Eagle, for example, also comes in 1/2, 1/4, and 1/10
ounce sizes. Other gold coin issues often have similar denominations. Historically, even denominations as small as *25 cents* have existed, though they are not very practical, being tiny things about the size of a fish’s scale both in terms of diameter and thickness (the example I saw was in the Numismatics museum in Colorado Springs). Why people continually focus solely on the 1 ounce coins and ignore utterly the well established fact of the existence of smaller denominations is something I have never really comprehended.
Another way of looking at it is that each “class” of coin has its intended purpose. In the old days before fiat money one used copper pennies for very small transactions, silver coins for small to medium
transactions, and reserved gold for large purchases. I would no more buy a single box of ammo with a gold coin then I would buy a house with a dump truck full of pennies or a few wheel barrels full of silver dimes and quarters. It is therefore more than a little disingenuous to proclaim the inappropriateness of gold by stating that you can’t buy a gallon of kerosene with it… While literally correct, it is hardly the
whole story.
It is also worth mentioning that not every transaction is going to be for a single can of beans. Does no one here buy in bulk? Do you all literally go to the store and buy one (1) can of beans only? I
sincerely doubt it. Most typical grocery runs are in the 50-100+ FRN range, which is within the realm of the 1/10 and 1/4 oz. gold coins (though I imagine smaller silver and even copper coins would be needed to get the exact amount). While the point made is a valid one, it is often (as in this instance) stretched to unreasonableness and becomes nothing more than a straw man argument, and a fairly absurd one at that.
Finally, with regards to the comment about making change with a cold chisel, I ask “Why not?” Historically, that is precisely what has been done to make change. Consider the famous Spanish “piece of eight” which was actually intended to be divided into halves or even 1/8 “bits” to make change. One of the things forgotten in our modern era of “miracle” fiat currency was that back in the day money was valued for the weight of precious (or sorta precious in the case of copper) metal contained within it, not the arbitrary stamp of value (i.e. $1, $5, etc.) placed upon it. Thus, one could take a $1 silver coin, and conceivably cut it in half to make 50 cents (of course, given that we had smaller denominations, this
was unnecessary. But the point is since it was the silver that was valued, one could realistically do that and retain the full value of the weight of the silver). Try doing that with a fiat $1 bill – you
can’t, can you? Of course, that is because you are playing with a paper token that possesses only shared hallucinatory value, rather than real worth. Anyone serious about participating in a post-TEOTWAWKI/post-fiat currency economy had better muy pronto get used to thinking in terms of metal weight, rather than arbitrary fiat currency value stamp. – G.F.L.

JWR Replies: First, I am well aware of 1/10th ounce gold coins. Up until quite recently, I owned several of them, including 1/10th ounce Krugerrand,1/10th ounce Maple Leaf, and 1/10th ounce American Eagle issues. I have heard that the Maple Leaf and the Chinese Panda are even made in a 1/20th ounce size. I wasn’t trying to keep SurvivalBlog readers ignorant of their availability. I might recommend these coins for barter, but these coins carry a hefty purchase premium but typically no corresponding resale premium. I recently saw 1/10th ounce American Eagles selling for $74 each! (The equivalent of $740 per ounce! This was when gold was around $610 per ounce.) Most dealers charge more to sell fractional gold, but they only pay the same price per ounce (or just over) that they do for full ounce coins when they buy it back. In essence, it costs a national mint the same amount to mint, package, and distribute a 1/10th ounce coin as it does for them to do so for a one ounce coin. These minting costs are passed along to the retail buyer.

The other major problem with using gold coins for survival barter, regardless of their weight, is that they will be immediately suspect as counterfeit by the individual on the other side of the table. Most Americans have never even seen a Canadian Maple Leaf or a Krugerrand, much less have any mean to determine its weight, water displacement weight, or otherwise test its authenticity. (Touchstone or acid test.) In contrast, small denomination circulated 90% U.S. silver dimes, quarters, and half dollars are almost immediately recognizable by most Americans, and will not be suspect beyond perhaps a passing glance.

Second, we were discussing a survival barter situation, when at some point in the future ordinary storefront commerce has been disrupted. In these circumstances, you probably won’t have the opportunity to walk into a retail grocery store an buy large quantities of anything. I predict that the commerce that will transpire will be very small scale–perhaps something similar to the Barter Faire that I portrayed in the “For and Ounce of Gold” chapter of my novel “Patriots.” Under these circumstances you won’t be buying case lots. It will be “onesees and twosees” transactions. Here, silver coins will be a practical medium of exchange.

Again, as I mentioned in my original post, I prefer common caliber ammunition for this sort of barter. A 50 cartridge box of .22 Long Rifle cartridges is just about ideal: recognizable, expendable, practical, almost universally used, and easily divisible. I strongly recommend that SurvivalBlog readers stock far more ammunition than precious metals, if their goal is survival bartering.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"If the public judges the movie people by some of the interviews that appear in print, they must wonder how they ever kept out of the asylum." – Will Rogers



Note From JWR:

The bidding in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction ends at midnight tomorrow night. This auction is for a fully tested and recently professionally calibrated U.S. government surplus Civil Defense CD V-717 fallout survey meter with remote sensing capability. The meter was donated by Ready Made Resources (one of our first and most loyal advertisers). The high bid is currently at $225. Please submit your bid via e-mail.



The NGO Security Blog

The NGO Security blog has a few manuals that may be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers. The ICRC Staying Alive Manual has a good explanation for your readers who do not have military training on the effects of military weapons and how to protect yourself from them. Plus it is interesting to read the incidents happening in the rest of the world. That is how society will be should TEOTWAWKI happen in the developed world. Incidentally, I was the dot on your global SurvivalBlog hit map that you saw in Khartoum a few months back. I work for an International Humanitarian Agency as a Security Officer. Hope it is useful to you and your readers. – PJH



Two Letters Re: Storing Coal for Home Heating at Your Retreat

Jim:
As a retired firefighter I want to mention that stored coal must be kept dry. I you do not, is will start an internal combustion fire deep in the center. To put it out, you must dig down to where it is hot. Regards, – G.C.P.

James:
You brought out some very important points about the differences between eastern (anthracite) and western coal.

Most coal stove manufacturers recommend using only anthracite coal. A few go so far as to void the warranty on their stoves if you burn anything but anthracite.

My pantry is located in an outbuilding and even though it is double-insulated and heated with 220 volt baseboard heaters with a propane-fired furnace as a backup, I believe in redundancy and installed a wood/coal burning stove “just in case”. I bought the unit from a friend who was demolishing an older home in the area. The stove is heavy welded steel plate and carries a manufacturers tag stating it is rated for wood and coal.

Even though I have easy access to an almost unlimited amount of seasoned wood, I purchased a ton of (western) coal from a local mom and pop mine for $20. (“You-Load”). While the stove burns effortlessly with wood, it is a nightmare with coal: dirty, smelly, hard to regulate. The only real use I can see for coal is to damper the stove down at night, toss in a few lumps of coal and let it smolder overnight. The fact is, my stove was just not designed to burn coal, the firebox and flue are simply not up to par with that of a stove designed from the ground up to use coal.

The second problem I have with coal is deterioration. I put my coal outdoors on a plastic tarp. Within a year, the lumps and chunks of coal had been reduced by weathering to a coarse, almost sand-like consistency. I’ve found that even if I fill a couple lunch bags with this material and toss it in, it burns much faster than solid chunks and is not suitable for overnight use.

If I were seriously interested in burning coal, I’d do two things: 1.) purchase a genuine “coal-stove” and 2.) construct a weatherproof coal-bin. – Hawgtax



Two Letters Re: Ammunition Handloading Basics

Jim
Much great information being shared in these posts, but reading the reload posts made me feel the need to point out one thing.
While reloading ammunition for revolvers and most conventional handguns is easy and fun, it is a different story for Glocks.The Glock is designed with an “Unsupported chamber” barrel which makes firing untested reloaded ammunition a dangerous affair. If the specs on the reloads are off even just a little, the result could be a nasty problem.

The ammo could cause the gun to self destruct, especially if it is a 40 caliber model. If you don’t believe me, do a Google search for the term “Glock Kaboom.”

Read it carefully, and pay close attention, it has happened many times with reloads.

I should note that I own two 9mm Glocks and fire some really well done reloads from a commercial reloading company. The ammo I shoot is specially made to be tolerated by Glocks and I’ve never had a problem with any of it. The rub is, I have nearly 2K rounds of it left from an initial lot of 4K rounds and the company where I purchased the ammo seems to have dropped off the face of the earth.

Well done reloads work fine in most 1911s, CZ-75s, SIGs, and other modern semi auto handguns. If you carry the Glock, like me, then you are obligated to do a little more research. – LK from WV

 

Jim,
In defense of what I said in my first letter about the simplicity of this system, I cannot understand how one could possibly have a near-disastrous KaBoom, if the directions were followed. There are always ways to succeed in screwing up, and I have done so myself in the past, but not with a disaster like that. Possibly if you had several different lee loader sets, and got the scoop from two sets mixed, I could see this happening.
AVL is correct in that semi-autos will feed more reliably with cases that are full length sized, you should go one step further, and get what are called ‘small base’ dies, so they will feed. At the same time, with a semi-auto, it can be very difficult to find your cases to re-load in the first place, and, the hand loader is really slow, a semi-auto will burn through ammo faster than you can get your kids to reload it!
For bolt-action rifles, especially if you are shooting the cartridges in the same rifle they were originally fired, there should be no problem closing the bolt, till the cases have stretched to the point where they need trimming. To not do this could also result in a catastrophic event. RCBS has dies that they claim prevent case stretching, and I have some, but have not used them enough to know if it is so.
The bullet supplier that I mentioned is a fledgling outfit that puts out good product, and might expand operations to rifle calibers, too, if things get rolling. Thanks, – Sid Near Niagara Falls



Odds ‘n Sods:

Some scientists claim: Climate change inaction will cost trillions

   o o o

SurvivalBlog readers D.W., T.P., R.S, and “Hawgtax” all mentioned this story: Wheat stockpiles at a25 year low. My advice: Stock up, while wheat that is already in the supply chain is still inexpensive!

   o o o

From Newsmax: President Bush signs ports security bill. This law is aimed at stopping terrorists from secretly importing nuclear, chemical, or biological weapons into the United States inside one of the 11 million shipping containers that enter the nation each year. Most of these are currently not inspected.

 

 



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"The hour is fast approaching, on which the Honor and Success of this army, and the safety of our bleeding Country depend. Remember officers and Soldiers, that you are Freemen, fighting for the blessings of Liberty – that slavery will be your portion, and that of your posterity, if you do not acquit yourselves like men." – George Washington (General Orders, 23 August, 1776)



Note From JWR:

The bidding is now at $200 in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction for a fully tested and recently professionally calibrated U.S. government surplus Civil Defense CD V-717 fallout survey meter with remote sensing capability. The meter was donated by Ready Made Resources (one of our first and most loyal advertisers). This auction ends on October 15th. Please submit your bid via e-mail.



Two Letters Re: The Ultralight Bug-Out Bag, by Hawaiian K.

Mr. Rawles:
I really liked Hawaiian K’s ultralight article but was disappointed that no links were provided as to where we can find some of the gear recommended. Any chance Hawaiian K or you could provide that info. I am just starting out with this preparedness stuff and really don’t know where to look. Regards, Wayne

[After I forwarded Wayne’s e-mail, Hawaiian K. sent the following speedy reply:]

Jim,
Sure! For people who like to save money and learn how to make the gear themselves, try these sites:
Gossamer Gear
Backpacking.net
My philosophical approach to “retreating” is that one should try to live at the retreat site but if that isn’t possible, the site should be no further than two days hike (For an example of how vehicle-based retreating plans could be turned upside-down, imagine how EMP could block all roads with dead cars). We all have our individual ideas of what to carry but to view the contents of ultralight hikers packs, try these links:
Hikelight gear list
Backpacking.net
UIltralight
Some ideas about lightweight foods to carry
The CRKT M16 Special Forces “Big Dog” knife
The Glock 30 (only 680 grams empty.)
“Buff” headgear
Merino “Smartwool” products
A great source for lightweight and technical fabrics

Well made, inexpensive shells
Expensive but well built gear
Hudson Trail
Campmor
Lightweight shoes (the best online shoe store, hands down!):
Tilley hats
Regarding lightweight body armor, shop carefully

I think that the links above pretty much cover everything I mentioned in my article but you’ll find more information than you could ever get through by Googling “ultralight hiking”. Save your back and travel fast and light! Best Regards, – Jim K.



Letter Re: Ammunition Handloading Basics

JWR,
Sid mentioned the Lee Loader package in a recent letter. While I think the Lee Loader is an ideal addition to any survival reloading kit, it does have some caveats that were not mentioned in Sid’s letter.
While the Lee Loader is a great system due to it’s simplicity, one of it’s great problems is its simplicity. Most die sets are two dies for bottle-neck and three for straight wall. The Lee Loader combines
steps into one. What I believe the biggest shortcoming of the Lee Loader is, there is no good way to measure gunpowder reliably. While it comes with a little scoop [ladle]to fill your bullets with powder, this method for powder dispensing should never be trusted. Always verify your charges with a scale. I learned this the hard way, it cost me a rifle, but spared my face,

The other problem with the lee loader is that for bottle neck rifle it will only provide for case neck sizing, leaving the bulk of the case unsized. While for bolt action shooters this is less of an issue, for anyone with an autoloader full-length sizing is required for accurate feeding.
The solution I would recommend for anyone who shoots light calibers (all pistols, .223, .30 Carbine) is the Lee Hand Press. It offers portability similar to the Lee Loader, but with significantly more
versatility.
Again, the most important thing is to always use a powder scale. Always use the scale to verify the amount of powder, especially from the Lee powder ladles, automatic powder throwers are very good about their consistency, the powder ladles leave much to chance! Safe reloading out there guys! – AVL

JWR Replies: Thanks for those tips. One thing that I can add as an important safety measure: Always select powders that fill more than half of the cartridge case volume. This way it will be obvious if you accidentally double charge a case.



Odds ‘n Sods:

In a recent issue of the Sovereign Society A-Letter, Eric Roseman noted with alarm that the credit derivatives market is now has a massive $26 trillion (with a “T”) dollars in play. This market has more than doubled in size over the last 12 months. Roseman says that he fears that the derivatives market has become a virtual time bomb. I concur. Someday, possibly in the near future, the market will start making big swings and the hedge traders are going to get blind-sided. Losses could be in the hundreds of billions or even the trillions, making the recent $6 billion “trading error” at Amaranth Advisers look like chump change. See my recent article on derivatives for some background about the implications of hedge trading.

o o o

The schedule of upcoming Appleseed Shoots was just updated at the RWVA Blog. Be sure to take advantage of this inexpensive rifle training when the touring trainers come to your region!

o o o

North Korea might now have The Bomb, but it doesn’t have much electricity. OBTW, I generally recommend areas without many city lights for survival retreat locales. But needless to say, that doesn’t apply to North Korea!





Notes From JWR:

Today we welcome our newest advertiser: CivilDefenseSupplies.com. Be sure to visit their site an check out their wide range of products, including 72-Hour Survival Kits, Communications Equipment, Emergency Foods, Lighting, Emergency Water, First Aid, and Night Vision Gear. Welcome aboard!

Because I will be traveling on behalf of a consulting client, I will not be taking any new mail orders from October 24th to November 8th. Thanks for your patience. During this time I will of course still be making my daily blog posts. (I’ve never missed day, and I don’t intend to!)