The Memsahib’s Quote of the Day:

“It is one of the great ironies of our modern “civilized” era that in most of the places where you don’t feel the need to carry a firearm for self defense you can legally do so if you choose. But in most of places where you do indeed justifiably feel the immediate need to carry a gun, they are banned.” – James Wesley, Rawles

Letter Re: Apex, N.C. Chemical Plant Fire as a Case Study in G.O.O.D. Realities

Jim,
My wife and I woke up at 5 a.m. (Eastern time) to NPR (you have to know what the enemy is up to) with the lead story a hazmat fire at a haz waste recycling company in Apex, NC, several miles to the east near Raleigh, NC. Something over 16,000 residents of Apex have been urged to evacuate so far as a large plume of a chlorine-like smelling substance moves through the area.
All local, state and federal agencies have been called in to assess and 300 firefighters so are are waiting until daylight (7am-ish) to go in assess and then fight the fire or at least the contain the contamination. Authorities have decided to let the fire burn itself out for now until morning since it was first reported 10pm (Eastern time) last night. Several police and one firefighter are being treated for inhalation problems Currently there is an adjacent petroleum co. next door where four tanks have also caught fire and exploded, exacerbating the situation…all schools in the apex area have been closed for the day.
If you follow local links (wral.com) and (newsobserver.com) you may get some updates on how this thing develops and is resolved…the large plume of whatever it is may shift soon due to a cold front coming through and more evacuations may result…the anticipated rains and storms with the front may be a mixed blessing….the morning commute from the SW of Raleigh should be a nightmare as the downtown Apex area is locked down….some will stay in their homes, i am advised but many left late last night….the haz waste handling facility handles discarded pesticides, paints, etc….and the heavy growth in the metropolitan area around raleigh, nc has led to many homes/some subdivisions being built near the complex (EQ recycling)……
My purpose is to notify you of a real-time scene here in NC that might be monitored for lessons learned about choosing wisely where to live, knowing your roads and how folks got by either staying shut in or leaving in a hurry….we are told that apex residents were called by phone late thursday evening by using a ‘reverse 911’ calling system that phones each home with the alert to evacuate. Was this a terrorist action? Probably not, but a wake up, nonetheless. Regards, – Redclay

Baking Whole Wheat Bread With Your Storage Wheat, by B.B.

You should plan to be dependent on stored food until your second crop comes in. Wheat is the least expensive and longest-lasting and most nutritious of the basic foods and should be the backbone of your stored foods. Figure on a pound per person per day, thus about 700 pounds per adult-size person over the two-year storage plan. This is about a loaf of bread per day, which will nicely supplement the other stored foods in your larder.
You want “thrice-cleaned, Turkey-red Hard Winter Wheat”, with moisture content at less than 10%. Store it in food-grade plastic buckets; treat it with dry ice as explained elsewhere in SurvivalBlog.
The simplest and most familiar way to eat wheat is by making bread. What follows is not a “survival” version of how to make bread, but unless you get your family used to eating whole wheat bread—and with this recipe, they will!—the wheat which ought to be the backbone of your food storage will not be much appreciated.
In a survival situation, you can prepare the bread dough described below, then eliminate the baking process in steps 5-7 by going right to the “Navajo bread” explanation at the end. And you won’t need bread pans either. Also, check abebooks.com for copies of Dian Thomas “Roughing It Easy” for ideas on survival cooking.
Homemade whole-wheat bread is often hard and chewy—sometimes better as a doorstop than as something to eat! Store-bought whole-wheat bread has a much better texture because commercial bakers use a secret ingredient. You can use the same ingredient and make bread that that will be far superior to store-bought and that your family will rave about. And you can make it from scratch to cooling rack in about 60 minutes! Trust me on this. Take note of the time for each step below and you will see what I mean.
Over the last several years, I have baked numberless loaves (100+) using this recipe. I often give one loaf of every 4-loaf batch away because I like the reactions I get. Early in my bread-baking career, one recipient told me she ate half a loaf at one sitting! I was pleased, but not surprised. My kids have done the same. Also try the variations you’ll read later in this paper; you’ll find people standing at your side waiting impatiently for the next bite.

Basic Whole-Wheat Bread (makes 4 loaves)
Of course it’s best to use freshly ground whole wheat, but you can start out your adventure in bread-making with whole wheat flour bought at the store. Yeast from Costco comes in good-size “bricks”—see the “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course for details.
4 1?2 cups very warm water
1 cup honey
1?4 cup yeast
1?2 cup oil (Canola is best)
6 cups whole wheat flour (more flour will be added later; see below)
Slightly mounded 3/4 cup of gluten flour (the “secret ingredient”: available in the baking/nutrition/organic section of larger groceries or from a nutrition store). Warning: you want gluten flour, not “high protein” flour
1 1?2 teaspoons salt
4 to 5 1?2 cups whole wheat flour (store-bought whole wheat flour may take less because it will be more “packed”—fresh made flour is more “fluffy”
4 greased or oiled bread pans. I use my fingers to spread the grease, or a paper towel to spread the oil, into every corner. Do this well to unsure the loaves will release from the pans. I’ve also used “Pam” with good results.
1. Combine the water, honey and yeast; let this mixture “work” at least 5 minutes. I have a kneading machine, so I use its bowl for this. No kneading machine? Use a large mixing bowl.
2. Then add the oil, the 6 cups of whole wheat flour, the gluten flour and the salt. Beat in your kneading machine (or electric mixer, or by sturdy wooden spoon) for 7 minutes. This will result in a pancake-like batter.
3. Continue to beat, adding 4 1?2 cups of the 5 1?2 cups of flour; checking for stickiness and adding only enough to cause the dough to clear the bowl—meaning the dough will pick up dough off the sides of the bowl (the batch will feel slightly sticky when touched).
4. Either knead with your machine or turn out onto an oiled board or counter (a tablespoon of oil spread around with your hand. Machine-knead or hand-knead for at least 10 minutes. I rub my hands with oil to keep the dough from sticking too much. For hand kneading, you can also add a little flour (just a little—you don’t want tough bread!–if needed to prevent too much stickiness. At the end of ten minutes, the batch should be elastic—you’ll know what that means after your first bread-making experience. It will feel “alive”.
At this point, you can continue with steps 5-7 or go right to the “Navajo bread” section below.
5. Mold* into four loaves and put in the four pans. Let rise in the oven with the oven temperature at 100o (just warm), for 15 to 20 minutes (but no longer or else you’ll get air pockets in the bread).
6. Turn the oven up to 350o and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. There’s no need to remove the pans and wait for the oven to reach 350—just turn the knob to 350. To test for doneness, turn out one loaf and tap on the bottom: a hollow sound tells you it’s done. To turn out a loaf, use oven mittens to hold the pan inverted and to catch the loaf. If the loaf bottom is still a bit “squishy”, return it to the pan and continue baking. Keep the oven door closed during this test or you’ll lose too much heat. Don’t over bake; the loaves will be browner than they look in the dark oven.
7. Turn out on wire racks to cool; rub a stick of margarine or butter over the tops to keep the crust from getting too hard.
* to mold: shape the batch into a round ball and cut into quarters with a long knife. Shape each of these into a ball. Then with the heel of your hands press on the sides of a ball to shape it into length to fit your bread pans. Press into the pan and then press it down so it fills the pan end-to-end and side-to-side. There’s no need to do this perfectly.
Stand back and feel proud; try to wait a little before you cut yourself the first slice. You deserve it! And you are going to love the toast this bread makes!
Navajo bread
Flatten a fist-size ball of dough pancake thin to 1/2 skillet size; fry on both sides in hot oil. Use this as a base for a tostada.
Or, flatten loaf-size ball of dough pancake thin and cut into small pieces the size of the palm of your hand and fry both sides in hot oil; serve with butter and honey. Yum!
P.S. Gluten flour can be stored for as long as ground flour if you use the same techniques for storage.

Letter Re: 20 Pound Propane Tanks and Differing Valve Designs in the U.S.

Mr. Rawles;
Saw a post concerning propane tanks dumped along roadways.
People need to be careful if they go and salvage these propane tanks as the folks who make meth amphetamine ("meth") use the propane tanks to hold anhydrous ammonia to make the meth with. If the tank has been painted some color other than white and the valve on the tank looks bluish green then it has [or has had] anhydrous ammonia in it. The tanks have a tendency to explode as they are not designed for the pressures anhydrous ammonia put on the tank as it expands when transferred from the tanks designed to hold it. I will send a CD on meth waste found along the road that our company made. (They made it because we have had employees injured after coming across meth lab waste along the roadway. The worst case I heard about was a mower running over a container and the person spent 10+ days in the hospital and it cost the company some $10,000 to [repair and] decontaminate the mower. – Ron from Ohio

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"You are the light of the world. A city that is set on a hill cannot be hidden. Nor do they light a lamp and put it under a basket, but on a lampstand, and it gives light to all who are in the house. Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works and glorify your Father in heaven." – Matthew 5:14-16

The Survival Rucksack (Backpack) – Part 2, by FDG

1

(Continued from the October 6th posting)

Let’s talk about each of these priorities individually.
Security: Safety and protection from predators, either two legged or four. Safety also from natural disasters such as wildfire, storms, earthquakes, etc. Consider the tools needed for the job.

Shelter: Since we are speaking of this in the context of the Survival Rucksack, in my opinion, your shelter needs to be the kind carried on your back. Remember the tortoise? So what to carry?
My first choice is the Bivvy Sack. It should be made out of Gore Tex or some other high quality breathable material. The Bivvy sack (or bag) is nothing but a large envelope of breathable, waterproof material that zips up with you, your sleeping bag and hopefully some room left for your gear. I have slept in very rainy weather inside a good Bivvy, all the while staying warm and dry. The U.S. Military has been using them for some time now and they are available on the surplus market in new and used excellent condition.
Second choice, I would consider a good one man tent; a rugged one that is light weight. The problem here is that these can get quite pricey and are still heavier than a Bivvy or lightweight nylon tarp shelter.
My third choice shelter is an oversized poncho like tarp at least 7’ X 9’ in a drab color. I prefer a rip stop nylon material with several grommets around the edges and loops for suspending it from a tree. There is one available from some of the outdoor catalog companies called the SAS Shelter. Be sure to require that it is the authentic item. This is a reasonably priced item and it gives you a better field of view of your surrounding area than a tent.
Water: Real simple. To carry only 1 quart of water is folly. You need to carry an absolute minimum of two quarts; but a more realistic quantity is up to 4 quarts. I repeat, 2 quarts of water is the absolute minimum that should be carried by an adult. Two additional 1 quart canteens or a lightweight 2 quart jungle canteen can be carried empty when you are in an area that has ample water and filled as needed in drier areas. Water rehydration bladders are all the rage these days and they do work well, but they are a bit fragile. I would not rely on them solely as they are easy to puncture. Also keep in mind it is very easy for an adult to go through 4 quarts of water a day when carrying a rucksack in warm weather.
Food: Food is your final priority, but it is as important as any of the others; you can’t live without it, and it is the one hardest to replace. I know all the Rambo’s out there are laughing now, but trust me, food is harder to acquire than you might think. “ I’ll just kill me a deer or a bar”, Okay, but see how far Bambi goes when everyone out there has the same idea. I have hunted the High Sierras on several occasions and sometimes the only thing I saw were Chipmunks. Maybe I’m just a poor hunter.
I have taught survival in the Army and I have rarely seen anyone put on weight on one of these outings unless they had smuggled in a gas mask carrier full of Hershey bars. The best answer I know of is to carry as much high calorie, high protein, light weight food as you can manage. Of course, if you had a stash under a rock someplace that would be great, but then you would not need your rucksack would you. Always remember Murphy,s Law. “Anything that can go wrong will go wrong”. On your back is where you want your food.
Now about the food. Question: How much food do I need in my rucksack?.
Answer: How long do you want to live? Pretty simple when you look at it that way.
I realize you can’t carry a one year supply of food around on your back, but if you carried the right kind you could carry: 3, 5, 10 or even 15 days worth without too much trouble.
Question: How many calories per day do I need?
Answer: You should plan on around 2000-3000 calories per day, depending on your activity. 2000 calories is probably plenty if you are hunkered down and not doing much. If you are beating the bush, carrying your rucksack, you can easily consume 3000 calories or more a day.
This of course is in mild weather. If you are in a very cold environment, you can easily add a third to a half more calories for the same period.
Remember, we are not talking weight watchers here. You want calories, that means fats, carbs and protein.
Weight, how much does this stuff weigh?
What type of food should I have in my Survival Rucksack?
Answer: The kind that keeps you going! This is usually Military type food. There are basically three types that will do a good job. They are: Freeze Dried, Dehydrated and flexible pouch (MRE type). There are also canned rations, which due to their bulk, weight and short shelf life are hardly worth considering.
The lightest to carry are Freeze Dried, (containing approximately 2-3 % moisture) and are easily the best tasting.
Dehydrated (containing approximately 5-10 % moisture).
Commercial “dried” (containing approximately 20% moisture) is another choice, but has a short shelf life.
MRE type foods are much heavier that the Freeze Dried or Dehydrated (usually about three times heavier).
Canned foods are even heavier than MREs.
Each type of food has its own unique qualities.
Freeze Dried normally tastes better and has the best storage life. Average preparation time for a Freeze Dried meal including heating water is around 20 minutes.
Dehydrated: Taste is not usually as good, but vegetables and pastas can be quite decent. Keeps well if in an oxygen free package. Average time to prepare a full meal including heating water is about 60 minutes.
MREs: Much heavier than Freeze Dried or Dehydrated but is the quickest of all to prepare. Just tear the envelope open and gobble it down. Taste generally considered fair (C – ). Short shelf life if stored in a hot environment.
Canned Food: Normally the least desirable from the stand point of weight and nutrition, even heavier than MREs. Very quick to open and serve (be sure you have a good can opener). Shelf life (about 1-2 years tops) is normally the shortest of any of the above listed foods. Very sensitive to heat.

Some myths exposed: A common myth is that MREs contain 3500 to 4500 calories each. Not so, an MRE contains approximately 1300 – 1500 calories, depending upon the menu. The misconception comes from the term “ration”, which is construed to mean one meal. The historical term “ration” as used by the military normally means “one day food supply”, hence the misunderstanding concerning calorie count. The truth is, two complete MREs in temperate weather will usually keep a man going pretty well for a full day.
Field strip your MREs: Get rid of the cardboard boxes they put everything in. Take out the things you don’t need. Example, the Tabasco sauce they put in almost every meal. The gum, tea, and the other things you usually won’t use. By doing this you will reduce the size to the point that you can put two meals into one MRE bag and save considerable weight in doing so.
Shelf life of MREs: The U.S. Army conducted extensive testing on the shelf life of MREs. They deemed them “acceptable”, for 130 months (over 10 years) when stored at a constant 60 degrees, which means they will sustain a soldier in a field environment, but they found that the MRE failed after just 6 months (that’s right 6 months) when stored at a constant 120 degrees. Now you say you will not store your MREs at 120 degrees. That’s right, but at a constant 80 degrees, they were only good for about 5 years. The point is, MREs are very sensitive to heat, so be careful where you store them. Automobile trunks, attics and garages are not good places for them. A few years ago I received a memo through official military channels that convalescing medical patients were not to be fed MREs under any circumstances, go figure.
Shelf life on Freeze Dried Foods: These are the best by far of any of the foods. They are far less affected by heat than the other foods and can last for several decades when stored properly.
In 1976 I packed a 55 gallon barrel full of Freeze Dried Foods for an expedition up Mt. Ararat in search of a large boat. The food was never shipped, as the intended user was not able to get clearance for his fourth ascent (the local communists did not care much for Christians.) I have dragged that barrel around for over a quarter of a century now, opening it every couple of years to supply pack trips and the food is still excellent. If you ever want to hear the rest of the story email me at: freezedryguy@lanset.com
Weights of: Food:
Fresh: About three pounds per day
MRE: About 2 pounds plus per day
Freeze Dried: About 1 pound per day
Dehydrated: About 1 pound per day
Dried: About 1 to 1 -1/2 pounds per day

Question: What is a good mix of the different types of food to carry in my pack, i.e. freeze dried to MRE, etc.
I like a mix of about 80% Freeze Dried with some dehydrated foods to 20% field stripped MRE items. Using this formula I can carry 15 days of food weighing in around 17-19 pounds.
The stuff that goes into your Survival Pack:

1 roll consisting of 1 undershirt, 1 pair of shorts, 1 pair of heavy boot socks
1 extra pair of socks (total of 2 pairs of socks)
Hat or cap
Gloves or glove liners for cold weather
6 empty plastic MRE bags or other strong plastic bags of like size
Vitamins, minimum 30 days worth
Prescriptions, minimum 30 days worth
Toiletries: tooth brush (cut down), small tube of toothpaste (1/2oz), dental floss, soap
Toilet paper (very important), 1 roll divided up into three separate bundles in MRE bags
Sleeping bag
Bivvy bag, tent or tarp
Sleeping mat (preferably self inflating)
Poncho (military)
Jacket with cold weather liner or sweater
Water Purification Filter (capable of filtering to less than 1/2 micron)
Pouch containing: 1oz plastic bottle of liquid dishwashing soap, small scrubbing pad
Tube of military bug repellent, pain medication,
550 cord (parachute cord), minimum of 30’
2 quart jungle canteen or equivalent
Nail clippers (small)
Web gear:
Harness or vest
Ammo belt
Knife
1 – 3 days of food
2 Military canteens, canteen cups and carriers
Butt pack if compatible with rucksack, if not, attached to rucksack
Survival kit carried on harness or in butt pack
Survival kit with: Fire starting materials, snare kit, water purification tablets, signal mirror.Now divide your equipment into three piles:
Pile # 1 Must have (mission essential, totally necessary)
Pile # 2 Nice to have but not totally necessary
Pile # 3 Not needed (non mission essential)

After throwing out pile #3 (that goes back in your closet) load pile #1 into your rucksack along with pile #2, put rucksack on and see if you can stand up. If not, continue taking items out of pile # 2 until you arrive at a manageable weight. Now go out and walk around the neighborhood. Come home and continue taking stuff out of pile # 2 until you think you have it right (you’re getting the picture now). When you can walk at a brisk pace for 4 – 5 miles wearing your rucksack and it is not killing you, you are well on your way to becoming a bona fide“rucker”.
Loading your rucksack: In general.
Keep the load close to your back – heaviest items forward and high.
Weight of the rucksack and personal gear.
This is an individual matter, but generally the entire weight of your equipment should not exceed one fourth to one third of your total body weight. With practice you will probably find yourself
exceeding these weights, but be careful. With much training, specialized soldiers often carry from one half to more than their own body weight, but this is not recommended for the average mortal.
Once you have become fully infected by the “ruckers disease” you must be careful as you may become exposed to and infected by “The Crazy B**tard’s Disease“, also known as the “Ultra light
or minimalist backpackers infection” I used to have the disease and felt I had recovered from it by getting old. Worked really good for a while!
You have all seen these lunatics, usually running up mountain trails half naked, cursing the old folks (anyone over 35) for not getting out of their way fast enough, bota bag slung over their
shoulder now only about 1/2 full and carrying what you would think was only a day pack. Actually they have everything needed (except enough wine) for at least a few days while usually keeping
the weight to about 20 pounds or so.
I ran across one of these nut jobs recently; turns out he’s on my county SAR team. I thought I had fully recovered from the disease but it seams it lays dormant in the host until the death of
said host. After only one evening with this guy, I found I had been hopelessly reinfected by the “Crazy Bastard’s Disease” and have not been right since. I realized the severity of the reinfection
a couple weeks ago when I was cutting and trimming all the extra weight off my ALICE Pack and web gear. That was not the scary part, the scary part was when I found myself running into the
kitchen and weighing all the stuff I had just cut off; all 5 1/2 ounces.

WWWF: No, this is not World Wide Wrestling Federation, it is my own little acronym for Weapon,Web gear, Water, and Food. These are also the first things you pick up in case of emergency.
If this helps you to remember these things, then use it. This acronym describes those items
normally carried on a harness called web gear, LBE (load bearing equipment) or LBV (load bearing vest). I believe the combined weight of this gear should not exceed 25-30 lbs.
Conditioning Hikes: Warning, be sure to check with your doctor before doing this.
It’s a very good idea to get yourself in condition by using your pack, should you ever need it for it’s intended purpose. It is great exercise that can pay you big dividends while you train. Some of my most pleasant times are spent hiking at a brisk pace (and some times just strolling) with my pack down some of the local trails beside the old irrigation ditch.
A good standard to use for conditioning hikes is the one used by the U.S. Army: The Army Forced March
This is a very brisk walk that maintains a pace of 4 miles per hour. When you get up to that pace and can keep it up for 5 – 7 miles with a 35 lb pack on your back you can consider yourself to be in very good condition; probably better than 95% of the civilian population out there.
The Army considers 3 – 4 times a week to be ideal, with at least one workout to be on the light side.
Be sure to consult your doctor before you undertake such an exercise program.

As a side note, 35 years ago the forced march was 5 miles per hour with full gear. You had to run part of the way to keep up the pace.
They used to tell us “no pain – no gain”. Well, I’m here to tell you it does not need to be that way. Regularity and consistency in your workouts is the key and by the way, if you keep to it you should find that the term workout will change to “play out”, I can almost guarantee it. In addition to this, the confidence you will gain in knowing you can survive will in itself more than compensate for the energy
expended.
Remember what farmers say about machinery. A good machine will rust out long before it wears out. Keep the rust off! Now go do it! – FDG
e-mail: Freezedryguy@lanset.com, Copyright 2003.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Yesterday, I visited a coin show in Sacramento, California. With the recent dip in silver and gold bullion prices, there were some eager buyers in attendance. Three different dealers all told me essentially the same thing: They think that we are witnessing perhaps the last big dip before the bull market resumes, to propel gold past $800 per ounce. Buy on the dips!

   o o o

Michael Z. Williamson mentioned this web page on a flu prevention breakthrough: a modified flu designed to fight the flu.

   o o o

Federal Reserve chairman Ben Bernanke says: Baby Boomers will strain the U.S. Social Security and Medicare systems.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Next to the right of liberty, the right of property is the most important individual right guaranteed by the Constitution and the one which, united with that of personal liberty, has contributed more to the growth of civilization than any other institution established by the human race." – William Howard Taft

Note From JWR:

Today we a present part one of a two part article, courtesy of one of our advertisers, Freeze Dry Guy ("FDG"). As a former Special Forces trooper, he really knows his stuff.

The Survival Rucksack (Backpack) – Part 1, by FDG

The information contained in these writings represents the opinions of the author. The author assumes no responsibility for the use or misuse of the information contained herein
What if tonight you had to get up and walk out of your home for an undetermined period of time with only those items you carried in your hands and on your back?.
Before 9/11 it was unlikely, today it is quite probable.

This article is dedicated to: Jesus Christ who gave his life for me, My Father who taught me honor, My Mother who gave me life, All of my Children, My old S.F. Buddies, Americans All, and Survivors.

Why the Survival Rucksack? Ah, that is the question!
For one thing, it’s a really great place to keep all your gear so you can find it the next time you need it!
Mindset:
Your mission is to survive with your loved ones for whatever period of time necessary, with what you carry on your back and in your hands. Think of yourself as the tortoise, at home, totally self sufficient but all the while knowing you must be prepared to act as the Hare, able to scamper away quickly, with the tools needed for survival.
Below, you will find my ideas on what the best packs are for the money, how to rig them, and what to put in them for the purpose of survival.
My opinions are formed from 44 years of backpacking, both as a kid, and in the U.S. military with 26 years combined service as a Marine, an Army Special Forces soldier and a Combat Engineer Trainer in the Army National Guard. I hope there is something within these writings that you find useful. Mine is by far not the last word on this subject. I invite your comments, good, bad and ugly (hopefully not too ugly).
You know what they say about opinions. Some of you will agree with me, others will not. I do not claim to be an expert at anything, only a student. Experts worry me. I was once asked by an old S.F. Sergeant if there were any experts present. Naturally I eagerly raised both of my hands along with several other young troopers.
Wrong! The old Sergeant then proceeded to explain that there is no such thing as an expert, and we were incredibly foolish to assume we bore that title. We were students and hopefully would someday become good ones; a point he made very clear. The definition of an expert he said is: Ex: a has-been, Spurt: a drip under pressure! I never described myself as an expert again. “Experts” can get you killed.
Survival is the same way. With a positive attitude, a fair amount of knowledge, and a little luck; mixed in with a dash of humility and some good common sense, you have an excellent chance of coming out on top.Once upon a time an “expert” told me “Don’t waste your money on expensive survival equipment, you probably won’t need it anyway”–only moments before he broke the hollow pot metal handle off his Chinese made “Rambo Survival Knife. This was an unwise man. My experience has proven that you should always buy the best quality equipment you can afford. The low price paid for cheap equipment will quickly be forgotten when it fails at the time you need it most. Remember that cheap discount store rain poncho that ripped the first time you used it?
Note: The 3 Levels of survival as they pertain to the Survival Rucksack.
Think Modular.
Each level below allows you to survive, although with a diminishing level of certainty and comfort.
1. Rucksack with attached patrol pack and web gear.
2. Patrol pack and web gear
3. Web gear
For the sake of redundancy to make a point I may repeat my self occasionally, plus I am an old guy and sometimes I tend to forget what I have already said.
.
Commercial or Military surplus packs, a dilemma.
U.S. Military (surplus, but in new or excellent condition).
Civilian
Foreign Military
Civilian or Military equipment: Pros and Cons of each
Civilian, Pros: Usually more advanced
Usually very comfortable
Lighter than military

Cons: Usually not as rugged as military
Usually much more expensive
Fewer places to hang gear on outside of pack
Often times available only in bright colors (do you want to be seen)
Military, Pros: Much less expensive than civilian
Widely available
Very rugged
Subdued colors
More places to hang equipment on outside of pack
Generally more pockets for storing gear, easier to access more items of equipment
Some packs can be made quite comfortable with certain after market modifications

Cons: Often times not as comfortable as civilian packs
Usually heavier than civilian packs
Often not as well designed as civilian packs

For the money, I generally prefer the military pack over the civilian pack if it meets my criteria, but do not misunderstand, money is not the most important issue. If a military pack has the comfort and versatility or can be modified to that end to perform adequately, I will almost always go with the military over the civilian pack.
Some basic terms:
Rucksack: Same meaning as backpack.
Haversack: A small frameless pack like the ones used by the U.S.M.C and U. S. Army during WWII, Korea and the early days of Vietnam. Not recommended as a Survival Rucksack, but can be used in a “Daypack” role, attached to the Survival Rucksack.
Packboard: As used by our military from WWII, through Vietnam. As the name states, it is a contoured board, usually of plywood, painted OD to camouflage it and protect it from the elements.
Butt Pack: Just like the name says. You have seen the commercial ones, usually with a couple of water bottles attached whenever you have gone for a day hike.
Frameless pack: Essentially the same as a haversack, usually just bigger. I do not recommend these as your main Survival Rucksack or for carrying weights of over about 25 lbs.
External Frame Pack: Just as the name implies, it has the frame on the outside of the pack. I prefer the external frame pack as my Survival Rucksack of choice. They are usually more comfortable and the frame makes it easy to attach extra needed equipment. Additionally, the external frame holds the Rucksack away from your back, providing cooling to your body.
Internal Frame Pack: This pack has it’s frame on the inside of the pack, next to your back, usually in the form of aluminum stays that can be bent to fit the contour of your back. If you get this pack and the stays properly fitted to your back it can be a very comfortable pack to carry. One advantage of this kind of pack is that if fit properly it moves well with your body. A big down side to this pack not often considered is that it makes you sweat very badly where it contacts your entire back. This often accelerates overheating in hot weather and it can lead to serious chilling in cold weather when you take the pack off. Even during winter weather, your back will get wet with this pack
Patrol Pack: Usually a small frameless daypack that clips onto your main rucksack and detaches for patrolling or getaway purposes. It usually carries enough food and gear for 1 – 3 days.

U.S. Packs I have used during my military career:
WWII Marine Corps Haversack:
An abomination then and now. Told we could carry up to 45 lbs it felt like 75. Very uncomfortable, the only advantage to this pack was that you could run well with it. It really tore up your shoulders and under your arms. Not recommended except as a patrol pack.
WWII Army Haversack:
A couple notches up from the Marine Corps pack. It had better padding but that is about all. Not recommended, except as a patrol pack to be used in conjunction with your main Ruck Sack.
WWII Army Packboard:
I carried up to 110 pounds on this packboard daily. I attached two Jungle Rucksack bags, one
above the other. This was a pretty good system for the day, but it lacked properly padded shoulder
straps and a good padded waist belt. This system carried a lot of gear if you were up to the task
but was a terrifying contraption to jump out of an airplane with ——-but that’s another story.

WWII Army Bergens Pack:
This was a knockoff of the Swiss alpine Rucksack and was used by U.S. Special Forces during the 50s and into the 60s. It had three outside pockets and one large main compartment. This also was a pretty good pack for the day, but it too lacked well padded shoulder straps, a good waist belt and it did not have ample attachment points to hang extra gear.
Jungle Ruck Sack, circa 1960s:
This was for it’s day, the most poorly designed, uncomfortable piece of junk the U.S. Military ever palmed off on the American G.I. A rather small nylon main bag with two outside pockets, it fit poorly, bounced up and down like a jack hammer when you ran, and carried all it’s weight on your shoulders. After about 35 lbs, it became extremely uncomfortable. A code of honor in Special Forces stated that you never donned a rucksack that weighed less than 70 lbs. That amount of weight compared to today’s standards with modern equipment was equal to at least 120 lbs. There are still some of them floating around out there. Stay away from this one unless you have a Chiropractor in the family.
ALICE Pack:
One of my all time favorites. The ALICE often gets a bad rap, but I have some ideas on how to
make it into a first rate Survival Pack. There are two sizes of ALICE Pack. There is the Large
ALICE, and there is the Medium ALICE. Where is the Small ALICE you ask? I don’t know. In
fact I have never met anyone who has ever seen one. There are civilian knockoff’s (mostly
imports) that are called Small ALICEs, but I have never seen a U.S. issue Small ALICE pack. Very interesting.
CFP 90 Internal Frame Rucksack:
Not a bad pack, I guess, but if you don’t get the fit just right, it can be pretty tough on your back.
This pack was designed as the Special Ops pack for the Army about 15 years ago. It was
designed by a good civilian pack manufacturer, but by the time the Army got done messing
around with it, they had pretty well ruined it. A big pack with internal aluminum stays, it comes
with a detachable patrol pack. It’s not great, but it’s okay if fitted properly.
MOLLE:
This is the new “Hoo-Yah” do everything for everybody modular rucksack that the
U.S. Military invested over $20,000,000 into developing at last count; and still don’t have it right.
Soldiers often complain of it not fitting right and hurting their backs. Most of the old timers who
know what they are doing still won’t give up their beloved ALICE Packs for this one. This
system is highly overrated and very pricey. If you can find a complete system for less than $500,
you should consider yourself as having found a bargain. An overpriced bargain that really looks
cool and often hurts your back , but a bargain just the same.
Italian Army Mountain Rucksack:
Current issue in woodland Camouflage with detachable patrol pack. I have found a few foreign
military packs I like, but not many. For one thing, most I have tried are not very comfortable.
This is an excellent pack that is comfortable and will carry a huge load. The only thing it is
seriously missing is a sternum strap, which is easy to fabricate or buy at a backpacking store. This
pack sports a very interesting external – polycarbonate half frame that works very nicely. These
packs usually run from $129 – $159 in new condition. It’s probably the best foreign rucksack I
have ever used; a real winner. I have several brand new in the wrapper that I will sell for $135
each (sorry for the commercialism). In case you are wondering why I have so many of these
things it is because I wanted a sample to test and I refuse to pay retail so I bought several of them
and saved a bunch of money (?). Things to consider when buying a Survival Rucksack:Comfort
Load bearing capability (how much weight does it (you) have to carry)
Cost
Color
Ruggedness
Versatility
Before we go further, let’s discuss the Rule of 3 (or 4 depending on who’s talking)
You can live:
About three minutes without air
About three hours without shelter (in an extreme cold climate)
About three days without water
About three weeks without food
Allow me to digress a moment. I would also like to add security. Without security, you may live only about 3 seconds.
So, what are the priorities?
1. Security – first and foremost, always, immediately secure you area!
2. Air – probably not an issue here unless someone is choking you.
3. Shelter, probably not as critical an issue, unless it is snowing or worse yet, you are in a freezing rain
4. Water next to security will likely be your most urgent concern.
5. Food, although listed last, be sure you have plenty in your pack.
Remember, #1or #3 are no more important than #4 or #5. All are equally important; you can not live without each one of them. I have only prioritized them in the order death normally occurs without them.

(To be continued, tomorrow.) – FDG
e-mail: Freezedryguy@lanset.com, Copyright 2003.

Odds ‘n Sods:

MSNBC reports on “unschooling”, a variation on home schooling.

   o o o

Study finds that the climate in the Northeastern U.S. could be considerably warmer by 2100.

   o o o

Norman in England sent the link to this: Gangs of “yobs” make life miserable in disarmed English cities. A brave few stand up to them. Meanwhile, law enforcement is becoming a joke, with two out of every three ASBOs being breached. I wonder: What life will be like in English cities, post-TEOTWAWKI, when only the gangsters have guns? My advice to UK urbanites has not changed: Take the gap, ladies and gents! In my (admittedly biased) opinion, places like Yorkshire and the other rural counties aren’t far enough afield to avoid trouble. Not given the nation’s high population density. There are just too many people to spread into too small an area, after TSHTF. You might perhaps consider low population density parts of Scotland or Wales, if you have family there. But otherwise you will be consider an outsider, and you do not want to be seen as the expendable new neighbor. There is already considerable antipathy directed at English land buyers in Scotland and Wales, and this will likely only get worse in the event of TEOTWAWKI. (Turbulent times tend to amplify the “we/they paradigm.”)

 

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclination, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence." – John Adams

Letter Re: Mossberg Mariner Pistol Grip Shotguns and Underground Cashing

Jim,
Just curious – would the Mossberg Mariner [one variant of which is now sold in the special waterproof canister packaging] make a decent tube that I can bury on land? Thanks, – Redclay

JWR Replies: Yes, they will work for underground caching since the canisters have an o-ring seal. They should seal well, but it is advisable to add another layer of protection. If nothing else, add a couple of layers of trash bags alternating with cardboard boxes then another trash bag. That way when you dig up the canister, it will have a little protection–and advance warning–when you shovel tip is getting close. Also, you will pull out a canister that isn’t slimy with mud from stem to stern. (“Been there, done that.”) If you live in an area that doesn’t have rocky soil, you can use a post hole digger to plant your canisters vertically. This makes them harder to spot with a metal detector. But if you do, dig an oversize hole and surround the wrapped canister with sand to make extraction easier. Parenthetically, make sure that you take GPS coordinates for your caching site, and record measured distances from several large landmarks. Trees can be removed, fence lines moved, and so forth. You do not want to spend a lot of time digging, especially post-TEOTWAWKI.

OBTW, I’m not a big fan of pistol grip type shotguns. They are painful to shoot, and not very accurate without a lot of practice. If you desire compactness, I recommend folding stock shotguns, most of which can be fired from the “stock folded” position in an emergency.

Letter Re: FAL/L1A1 Thumbhole Stock Conversion and Vendor Feedback

Hello Mr Rawles,
I wanted to drop you a line and let you know that I recently did some business with the Gun Parts Guy, whom I discovered on your site. The experience was a pleasure. I’m very new to the survival mentality, and even newer to the wonderful world of battle rifles. I read your book, loaned to me by a friend that I’ve had since high school (in the eighties, I’m 36), and it got me, well, motivated.

The friend in question, I’m happy to say, has undergone a far more important conversion experience to Christ, and recently his wife told mine that it all started from a conversation I had with him a couple of years ago. When I started looking for a handgun a few months back, he let me know he was “in the know,” and once I made my selection we went to the range together. After a few trips he loaned me your book, which he attributes to his own move toward survival preparedness.

Now the two of us are talking about securing some land in east Texas for a retreat. The bond of faith, friendship, and love of shooting make our families a good match (although I haven’t been able to talk him into homeschooling his kids yet- but I’m not giving up).

I too attend a Reformed Baptist church, and share the same theological perspective as yourself, so it’s been a refreshing trip to your site every morning.

Since I’ve strayed from the subject line of this email I’ll finish back on track. I went to a gun show a month ago and bought the only .308 I found- a Century Arms L1A1 with the thumbhole stock ($600). I wanted to replace the stock and went to a place here in Houston where I was told that it couldn’t be done. A comparison was made with an AK that apparently won’t work if the stock is removed/replaced.

I was bummed- I can’t even flip the safety with my right hand if I’m in shooting position. Then I called the GPG, and he told me it could be done, that I could do it myself (I’m a little nervous about this part, but I’ve got a friend at church that can help), and that he could get me everything I needed to get it done. He even explained the laws to me about making the conversion legal. The guys in the Houston store told me the ban was lifted and I could do whatever I want now (although they couldn’t help me). The laws are still ambiguous to me, but I want to stay legal for obvious reasons (like driving to the range).

Anyway, I know you get a lot of email, but I wanted to make contact and let you know that there is a pocket of Texas boys that really appreciate your efforts.

God Bless, – G.G.

Letter Re: Advice on Swedish Military Surplus Fallout Survey Meters

Hi Jim –
You probably get an e-mail like this 10 times a day, but since reading that the Radetect and Nuk-Alert are worthless, I’m shopping for something to supplement the CD V-700 [Geiger counter] that I have. From what I’ve read the CD V-700 is good for checking if people or objects have become low-level contaminated, a different meter is needed for alerting and monitoring high-level exposure risks. Sportsman’s Guide currently lists three different meters, including a Swedish one that looks interesting. Do you have any intel on these? Thanks For Your Time – Steve M.

JWR Replies: To start, I wouldn’t categorize a Nuk-Alert as “worthless.” They do effectively fill a role in your NBC preparedness planning and that is for point source (radioactive contamination) warning. They work fine for that. But they certainly aren’t a substitute for an accurate dosimeter and ratemeter.

Now on to surplus NBC gear: If a meter hasn’t been properly calibrated with a known-emanation test source in the past 10 or so years, then it won’t give an accurate reading. Don’t bother buying junk. Buy a freshly re-calibrated CD survey meter from Ready Made Resources, or from ki4u.com. You are correct about the CD V-700 being inappropriate for survey use. (When you need to measure the rate of exposure.) The following is a quote from the Civil Defense Museum web site: “[The] CD-V700 radiation survey meter is a sensitive low-range instrument that can be used to measure gamma radiation and detect beta radiation. It is recommended for (1) monitoring of personnel, food and water when used in a shielded facility or an area of low radiation background, and (2) follow-up monitoring or areas for human habitation and food production.” What you need to gauge a safe time for shelter emergence is something like the CD V-717 model survey (rate) meter that is currently being auctioned to benefit SurvivalBlog. Regardless of what model you buy and where you buy it, make sure that it has been recently calibrated by someone that knows what they are doing and that has access to a proper test source!