Odds ‘n Sods:

From SHTF Daily comes this sobering article and accompanying CBS News video clip: Builders Giving Up On The Sinking Market.  Now it is not just defaulting buyers that are “walking away.” The article indicates a loss of “$1.2 trillion from the value of American homes. And the losses are mounting, going to $4 trillion by one estimate, by the end of next year.”One observation on the video clip: Is wearing one’s baseball cap backwards a key indicator of sub-prime borrowing, sub-prime intelligence, or both? I’d hate to tell that real estate “investor” what sort of house and how much acreage $597,000 would have bought him in western Wyoming. Certainly a lot more than his postage stamp lot in suburban California. Maybe he could raise some fish in that swimming pool, so that he’ll have extra cash on hand for when his 2/28 adjustable rate mortgage resets next year and his house payment jumps by $1,000 per month.

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A recent blog post about a five-hour shutdown of an eastern US highway has implications for anyone planning to “Get Out of Dodge” (G.O.O.D.) at the eleventh hour, by car or truck. Be sure to pick your routes carefully.Your main intended route should be on secondary roads. Also be sure to identify a couple of alternate routes.

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Reader MGB pointed us to a interesting series of posts from AlphaGeek that ran on DailyKOS in 2005. (Back during Hurricane Katrina): Are YOU ready for disaster?

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The ever-watchful Steven in Iraq sent us this: Banks to set up $80 billion fund to limit credit crunch



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Liberalism, with its ever changing totem pole of hierarchy of its causes, is like a continuous game of Jenga, except that no matter who causes it to fall, it will be the Republican’s fault.” – Rourke



Note from JWR:

There are just two days left to place a bid in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction, for a scarce pre-1899 antique Finnish M39 Mosin Nagant rifle with bayonet from my personal collection. The high bid is still at $500. This rifle was rebarreled by Valmet during WWII, and is in excellent condition. It comes with a replica bayonet, original sling, and original muzzle cap. Since the receiver for this rifle was made in 1898, it can be mailed directly to the winning bidder’s doorstep, with no FFL paperwork! The auction bidding ends at midnight tomorrow, October 15th. Just e-mail us your bid.



Two Recent Incidents Illustrate that the U.S. Treasury Wants to Have it Both Ways With “Legal Tender”

Consider the case of a lad that tried using some $1 US Mint Presidential series proof coins as spending money at a restaurant. And now consider the hung jury in the tax evasion trial of a building contractor that paid his employees in US Eagle one ounce (“$50”) gold coins, at their face value. So if I understand these stories correctly, the U.S. Treasury wants us to accept their “legal tender” coins at face value, when the face value is more than the metal value of a coin, but they’d happily see us thrown in jail when when use a coin at face value if that is less than the actual metal value of a coin. These two news stories help illustrate the supreme hypocrisy of the US monetary and tax systems: the US Mint, the Federal Reserve system (a private banking cartel), the U.S. Treasury Department, and the “self-assessed” personal income tax in the United States.

With the foregoing in mind, my advice to U.S. precious metals investors is straightforward: Keep your transactions as private as possible, while staying within the law. To the best of my knowledge there is no Federal law that requires you or your local coin dealer to report your cash gold or silver purchases, as long as they are less than $10,000. (Although, be advised that if you make multiple sub-$10,000 purchases within a short period, it could be construed as “structuring” (a.k.a. “Smurfing”) to avoid the IRS Form 8300 $10,000 tax reporting trigger.) Pay cash, and don’t offer your name unless required by state or local law. Get a dated receipt as “Cash Buyer” so that you can establish your cost basis for calculating the tax upon eventual resale. Be sure to annotate your receipt with the metal’s spot price at the time and date of your purchase.

Unless you have a penchant for tilting at windmills (not recommended), I suggest that you don’t try any fancy maneuverings when it comes time to sell your metals, or when you barter them for something of like value. Capital Gains taxes will probably be due. Just “Render Unto Caesar”, be done with it, and sleep soundly at night. Yes, I realize that technically, the Treasury is bound by its “legal tender” promises, but that doesn’t stop the IRS from coming after you with a vengeance. And yes, I’ve read the research on the bogus ratification of the Sixteenth Amendment (“The Law That Never Was.”). But just because you are technically right won’t keep them from tossing you in prison. Nearly every tax protestor that has brought up Sixteenth Amendment issues as a defense in income tax cases has failed miserably. Again, don’t ruin your life by jousting with windmills.



Letter Re: “Get Your Ark” Food Storage Pails

Mr. Rawles:
First off, I would like to thank you personally for the nice note you sent to thank me for becoming a “10 Cent Challenge” subscriber. The services you provide are worth much, much more than the $36.50 [per year that] you ask. To be honest, you’re a better man than me; if I were you, I would probably make the subscription mandatory.

I do have a question for you: in your considerable opinion, how would you rate the usefulness of this product from a preparedness perspective
As you can see, they tout “The ARK” [bucket-packaged storage food unit] as having up to a 15 year shelf-life and $119 + $25 shipping seems pretty reasonable for a full month of meals for one individual – especially if it really is 1600 calories per day.

I’m a little confused. As I’m sure you saw, the very top of the web page lists the bucket as containing “90 Complete, Delicious, Easy to Prepare Meals.” But, if you add together the individual food servings contained within, my count brings me to 177 individual servings; dividing that by three squares a day would actually give you 59 days (call it 2 months by adding some minor additional preps along the way) worth of individual meals for one person at 1600 calories per day – in a rationing situation, getting by on 2 meals a day plus limited extra preps could stretch this bucket out to a 90 day supply for one person! Sounds too good to be true. Thanks, – J.S.C.

JWR Replies: I believe that it is too good to be true. This product–or one remarkably like it–was originally marketed as a “three month food supply for one person.” There was at least one lawsuit over their claims– which focused on the number of meals and caloric content. This was covered in SurvivalBlog back in August of 2006. It might be a product worth buying, but realistically, consider it just a 15 to perhaps 20 day food supply for one adult.







Note from JWR:

If you value what you read at SurvivalBlog, then please consider becoming a 10 Cent Challenge subscriber. The subscriptions are voluntary, and gratefully appreciated. They help pay the bills around here, and keep me from going back to technical writing. Many Thanks!



Letter Re: A Learning Exercise with “Get Out of Dodge” Applicability

Dear Jim,
I thought I’d relay an exercise I learned from last year.
Every year, I do a large historical re-enactment in Pennsylvania. I take two tents totaling 300 square feet, my forge, tools, clothing and gear for a family of four down to a four poster bed, tables, chairs and workbench, plus merchandise to sell. This fills a conversion van with rear seat removed and a standard kit-built trailer. It’s great rehearsal for bugging out. Packing takes about 8 hours.
Before I left, I realized the brakes were a little soft. I made a point of leaving lots of clearance on the highway. The trip is exactly 403 miles from my house. Most of it is interstate.
Upon leaving the event to return home, I realized the trip out with the cargo and trailer had beaten the brakes up a lot. They were definitely soft. I left lots of clearance. My wife had gone ahead, and I had both kids.
Our usual trip home includes a detour on a state route, two lane, through Ohio hills, to stop at an ice cream factory. I was on this road and came over a hill at normal speed–55–and saw a line of cars backed up behind one turning left. I braked and felt the pedal sink. I was moments from plowing 3 tons of van and cargo into a Toyota. I found there was just enough room in someone’s front yard to get between the traffic and a tree. Honestly, I was prepared to sideswipe or lose the trailer to avoid that wreck, and I was lucky there was no ditch. It worked. I pulled over as soon as I could stop and checked things over. Grass and mud everywhere, but no serious problems.
However, as we left the ice cream factory, I heard a whine, rumble, and lost a trailer tire. I always carry two spares, so I pulled into a farmer’s driveway (paved, it’s central Ohio) and got to work. The blowout had also shifted the cargo in the trailer and split the wooden side from the hinge holding it. The tarp was acting as structural support.
I couldn’t find the jack. I knew I had a jack, but I couldn’t find it. It wasn’t under the passenger seat, nor all the way in back with the trailer spares. I tried using some dunnage and lumber to pry the trailer up, but no luck. I knew I could lift it myself and have my daughter prop dunnage under, if it was empty, but that’s a 2-3 hour job to repack, and we’d been at it hard for 12 days and had 250 miles to go, at 90+ degrees with no air conditioning. I tried to go ahead and break the lugs loose, but they were too tight even with me standing on the wrench.
The farmhouse was empty, with a sign noting they were gone until Sept, when apple harvest would start (I think, don’t quote me), and I’d rather not start hiking with two small kids, so I tried to flag someone down. Luckily, two minutes later, a very nice man and his wife on a Harley were heading back toward the small town we’d left, and said they’d let a garage know. They even returned to report on it.
A few minutes later, two country boys in a pickup showed up with a screw gun, an air compressor, an impact wrench and a jack. Five minutes later we were good to go. The guy running it said he wasn’t sure how to price it, so I handed him two $20s. I would have paid $100 and not flinched.
I left a lot of distance ahead the rest of the way home, especially on the state roads, and on the Columbus bypass.
And of course, when I unpacked I found the jack, under the other passenger seat, where I’d inadvertently moved it to fit in the extra first aid kit and fire extinguisher.

The lessons here are: always maintain the vehicle. Less than 90% means fix it now. Always inventory your emergency gear with hands-on when loading, so you know where it is. Always leave extra distance and assume there’s a roadblock, stopped vehicle or such over the next hill, until you can see. Always check your spares and all lug [nut]s (I’ve had a frozen lug on the van before, too) regularly and before a trip. – Michael Z. Williamson



Letter Re: Advice on FN FAL Rifles

Good Morning Jim,
I have been a dedicated reader of your site since almost the beginning and am (finally) mailing my 10 Cent Challenge [voluntary subscription payment] today.

My weapons of choice have always been [Model] 1911 pistols and AK variants. I have long lists of reasons for those choices, but that is a discussion for another day.

I am now thinking of buying a FN FAL and have no idea where to start. I know that FN FALs are your battle rifle of choice, and I understand your reasons. Can you help me (and your other readers, I’m sure) with the following questions:

1. Are FN FALs being made today?
2. If they are in current production, who is manufacturing them? (Do they have a web site?)
3. What should a person expect to pay for an FN FAL? New? Used?
4. Anything a person should be on the lookout for when shopping for an FN FAL?

Thank you for your help. I look forward to your responses, and I bet some other readers will find this info helpful too. Thank you! – Nick in Indy

JWR Replies: In answer to your questions, yes, FALs are still being made, but they are no longer being made in Belgium by FN. The FN-built FAL rifles are considered the benchmark of quality, and bring a premium price. Most of the FALs on the market in the US these days are “parts kits” gun, assembled with used military parts and newly-manufactured semi-auto receivers. (These receivers have an ejector block that cannot accept the full automatic sear.) The quality of these rifles varies widely. A few are assembled by people that shouldn’t be trusted mounting car tires, much less headspacing a rifle. Therefore, I recommend that you buy a FAL only from a reputable, well-known manufacturer, or that you acquire your own receiver and parts set, and have it custom built by a gunsmith such as CGW (one of our advertisers) or Arizona Response Systems. The U.S. “factory” maker that I recommend is DSA. They make umpteen FAL variants.
I also recommend the rifles that were formerly made by Springfield Armory (the pre-ban SAR-48 and the post-ban SAR-4800.)
For spare parts and accessories, I recommend Gun Parts Guy.

Prices for pre-ban and post ban FALs vary considerably. Typical post-ban FALs from parts kits range from $500 to $1,100. A top-of-the-line post-ban built by DSA can be 1,000 to $1,800 depending on specifications. Pre-ban FN FALs range from $1,400 for a typical used SAR-48 or Argentine FM-LSR, to $3,200 for a like-new pre-ban folding stock (“Para”) FAL made by FN of Belgium.

Again, look for a FAL from a well-known maker. Be advised that under section 922(r) of the US Code, all post-ban semi-auto rifles must have seven US-made parts. It is beyond the scope of this letter to explain all of the details of that regulation here. Refer to the Legal Forum at The FAL Files Forums for more on the section 922(r) requirements. Suffice it to say that some home builder omit the seven US-made parts. This is just one more reason to only buy a rifle built by a “name” gunsmith or manufacturer. They do all of their FAL “builds” in compliance with section 922(r).
For any used rifle or any rifle that was built with a used parts kit, pay particular attention to the bore condition before you make the purchase.

For more about both metric and L1A1 (“inch pattern”) rifles, first read my brief FAQ on FALs and L1A1s and then spend some time working your way through the archives at The FAL Files. There, you will learn about the various models, makers, accessories, spare parts, and so forth. The FAL Files Discussion Forums are a great place to learn even more. The folks there are happy to answer questions from “newbies” to the FAL fraternity.

My personal preference is for L1A1 inch pattern FAL variants. They are more sturdy than metric guns, and less prone to jamming when dirty. They are also the most versatile in terms of accepting magazines. (An inch rifle can accept either inch or metric FAL magazines, but a metric FAL can only accept metric magazines–not inch!) We have five L1A1s here at the ranch, all built on pre-ban receivers. Three of them were built by Rich Saunders of CGW. Rich does fantastic work. Our other two are SAR-48s that were rebuilt to inch specifications (with their receivers re-cut to accept both inch magazines and folding charging handles) by T. Mark Graham of Arizona Response Systems.



Letter Re: A Reader’s Perspective on Assembling a Survival Firearms Battery

Jim, it seems that several of your readers have been exercising their keyboards on the subject of “survival batteries” lately. This has been great sport since the days of Mel Tappan and I have seen countless lists of just was is “absolutely” needed. Methinks that many of these well-meaning folks have never carried firearms on a regular basis and used them for work.

I spent 12 years in the law enforcement business, eight of which I was an NRA certified instructor. I carried a gun, both in uniform and concealed, for every day of those 12 years. Based on my experience, I have far fewer firearms than most of your respondents. My long-range rifle is a 30-30. Yup, 30-30, good to 200 yards, based on my experience. Have a .357 lever action for pest control (both four- and two-legged kinds) and a 22 for general use. Have a couple to 12 gauge pumps because they are most effective a close ranges and, in my situation, I won’t have long-range encounters. Have a couple of .357 revolvers but I don’t emphasize the handguns because “they just ain’t good enough” when push comes to shove. But I do have lots of ammo stored. I wouldn’t mind having a Garand (box magazine get in the way maneuver-and-shoot) but the cost is too high.

Decidedly low-tech, relatively low-cost in comparison to the urban commando outfits being presented by the Blog’s readers. But based on the experience of carrying and using firearms in the course of working. “Ideas that sound good are not a good replacement for what actually works” Keep up the good work! – B.A.C., Sacramento, California



Odds ‘n Sods:

Steve H. and Ben L. both mentioned this: New fire-retardant gel can save homes. Ben’s comment: $12,000 to $20,000 may seem like quite a bit of money, but compared to the total price of a house, is it really that much?

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I just noticed that JRH Enterprises had a couple of scarce Gen 3 AN/PVS-14 night vision weapon sights available. With the current heavy government contract demand to support the war in Iraq, these don’t hit the civilian market very often!

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The price of wheat has gone up 75% in just the past six months. Little did we know that we were sitting on a gold mine.

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From frequent contributor RBS: U.S. Treasury-Insurers won’t cover nuclear risks





Note from JWR:

Today we present the first article for Round 13 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 13 ends on November 30th. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



Homeschooling During the Crunch, by Nathaniel

Let’s say that you and your family having been taking the advice provided here by Mr. Rawles and are squared away for the Crunch—you’ve got your bullets, beans, and band-aids, all piled high in a structurally reinforced home out in the middle of nowhere. You’ve got just about every survivalist book ever printed, plus the tools and skills you’ll need to provide for yourself and your family. You also, of course, have the basic life skills that you’ll need to simply stay alive—things like shooting, tracking, cooking, and first aid.

Have you thought, however, about the education of your children? Public schools, private schools, and universities will likely close their doors. And even if any remain open, the education they provide would be of questionable value when society is falling apart. Clearly, the most important things for children to know will be the things that survivalist parents have been teaching them for a long time—skills like shooting, cooking, sewing, and first aid—and none of those are taught sufficiently well in the typical school.

But will children really need to learn anything else during the Crunch? After all, what is the value of “book learning” when you’re far from civilization, simply trying to survive? Does it really matter who wrote A Tale of Two Cities? Of what importance is learning to tell the difference between it’s and its or good and well? And who cares about calculating the length of the hypotenuse of a right triangle?

Actually, all of that is important. The three R’s (reading, [w]riting, and [a]rithmetic) will always be of value, no matter how bad things get, as will a variety of other subjects. Why? Because in all except the most horrific SHTF scenarios, people move out of their bunkers after several years and again begin to interact with their neighbors, first just to barter, and later to gather socially. Society eventually rebuilds, and as it does so, leaders are needed to fill the gap—people who are able to communicate effectively and think critically about the problems they face. How are such leaders raised? In part, through their education.
We’ve already established that traditional educational services will almost certainly be non-operational once the Schumer hits the fan, so survivalists must look elsewhere for a solution. Essentially, that solution is some form of homeschooling, because when society isn’t functioning, your children will have no one to learn from other than you.

Are you ready for that? Some of you already homeschool your kids—that’s great. But regardless of whether you already do or not, you may not be prepared for the day when there are no more easily obtainable textbooks, no more homeschool co-ops, no more video lectures, and no more sources of basic school supplies. Could you, with only the resources that you have now, teach your kids the important things that they need to know for the next three, four, or five years? How about the next ten?

Before going any further, let’s clear up some common misconceptions. First, you don’t need to be a professional teacher to be a successful homeschooling parent. College degrees in education might make you more capable of teaching a class of thirty students, but you certainly don’t need a degree to teach one or two kids at a time. Second, you don’t need specialized curriculum or fancy textbooks. Textbooks are a relatively new invention and can be useful in some cases, but they certainly aren’t essential if you have a good attitude and the right tools.

So what do you need? Well, you need some general supplies, a few basic tools, and most importantly, books—lots of books.

The essential tools and supplies are for the most part obvious—pencils and paper are a good start, and you can stock up for pennies during back-to-school sales at major retailers. Don’t settle for junk, however—you’ll be kicking yourself for buying those cheap mechanical pencils when they’re all breaking after a month or two of use. The best strategy is to simply buy a mechanical pencil sharpener if you don’t already own one, and plenty of boxes of old fashioned yellow pencils, with separate rubber erasers still in their original plastic wrapping. Don’t forget the tools you’ll need to teach math, either—items like protractors and well-made compasses are essential. Something else you may not have thought of is a slide rule, since calculator screens and batteries are prone to failure. Slide rules last for decades if properly cared for, and have the added benefit of forcing their users to engage their brains. Of course, since you’re going to be teaching your kids how to use these tools, make sure you know how to use them yourself.
Next up is books. This is the most important part of your homeschool preparation, simply because the right books are packed with valuable information that’s accessible to anyone who is able to read—both the teacher and the student. Furthermore, it’s possible to get most books for only a little bit of money—used book stores and library book sales are excellent ways to build a large library on a small budget.
The key reference works that everyone ought to own include a Bible, an exhaustive concordance, and a modern unabridged English dictionary. A complete encyclopedia would also be a valuable resource, and versions printed a few decades ago can be obtained at little cost. Your Bible and concordance should be of the same version, and the version should be both readable and accurate for serious study. Some prefer more literal versions like the New American Standard or the English Standard Version, while others like the grandeur of the King James Version or the readability of the New International Version. Get a version you like and will read, and get the concordance to go with it.

To teach your child to read, depending on age, you’ll need a variety of interesting and educational books. Teach phonics and short-sentence reading, and then move on to picture books like the Frog and Toad series (Arnold Lobel) and stories by Dr. Seuss. Eventually, you’ll be able to make the move to some of the older Newbery Prize winners, like A Wrinkle in Time (Madeleine L’Engle), Carry On, Mr. Bowditch (Jean Lee Latham) Amos Fortune, and Free Man (Elizabeth Yates). Other excellent children’s books include The Secret Garden (Frances Hodgson Burnett), the Little House series (Laura Ingalls Wilder), The Chronicles of Narnia (C. S. Lewis), The Princess and the Goblin (George MacDonald), anything by E. B. White, My Side of the Mountain (Jean Craighead George), The Sign of the Beaver (Elizabeth George Speare), Anne of Green Gables (L. M. Montgomery) and the Redwall series (Brian Jacques). Pre-teens and teenagers ought to be able to start digesting heavier works—begin with John Bunyan, Mark Twain, and J. R. R. Tolkien, and then move on to Charles Dickens, Jane Austen, Fyodor Dostoevsky, Herman Melville, Ernest Hemingway, and other great authors. Poetry is also excellent reading material—start with the classics by poets like Rudyard Kipling, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and Robert Service. You can also read any of these works aloud to younger kids, thereby giving them early exposure to the masters of the written word.

A strong writer is necessarily an accomplished reader, so by providing literature to your children, you are also encouraging the development of their writing skills. Writing can be improved by a lot of practice and by studying examples in literature, but resources like The Elements of Style by Stunk and White (get the 3rd edition—the 4th edition was made more politically correct by a shameless ghost writer) make it much easier. Do not underestimate the importance of the skill of writing—it forms the basis of all effective communication.

Mathematics can be taught without textbooks as well, but depending on your own familiarity with the subject, it may be difficult. Today it’s not uncommon to find people who can’t make change in their head or balance a checkbook, so if that describes you, make an effort to develop your math skills. You ought to be able to explain concepts like arithmetic (including long division and three digit multiplication), percentages, units of measurement, distance and graphs, and simple logic. A working knowledge of geometry, trigonometry, logarithms, probability, statistics, and calculus would be even better, but some find this difficult to attain. At this level, many will find it necessary to use textbooks, but there’s usually no need to have a separate textbook for each grade: entry-level college math textbooks cover a wide variety of topics and older versions are extremely inexpensive when purchased at book sales or online. Get one that has the answers in the back of the book, or one that comes with a solution manual.
As the new society develops, there will be a need for people who understand how government works and who understand the basis of government by the people. Works like Two Treatises of Government (John Locke), The Federalist (Hamilton, Madison, and Jay), and Democracy in America (Alexis de Tocqueville) provide a better understanding of government than any civics textbook ever could, and supplementing these works with opposing viewpoints like those found in The Communist Manifesto (Engels and Marx) can generate healthy discussion.

History can be taught in a variety of ways, but one of the easiest is through biographies. Learning about the lives of people like Alexander the Great, Marcus Aurelius, Augustine, Martin Luther, Leonardo da Vinci, Shakespeare, George Washington, Simón Bolívar, Napoleon, Robert E. Lee, George Washington Carver, Theodore Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, Adolf Hitler, Martin Luther King, Jr., and others can provide a basic understanding of world history. Historical fiction like that written by G. A. Henty can also be a valuable resource, because it simultaneously engages young readers and teaches history.
You may decide to teach a foreign language, or perhaps a “dead” language such as Latin, Ancient Greek, or New Testament Greek. A dictionary, grammar, and Bible in the language are all you absolutely need, but for foreign languages, a few fiction (especially juvenile fiction) books can make it more fun. It’s also extremely helpful to have access to someone who already knows and speaks the language well, so make sure you know the language capabilities of the people in your retreat group.

Science is best taught through experiments, and it’s often possible to incorporate science lessons into everyday life. Turn your latest kill into a biology lesson by analyzing all the organs and talking about what each does. Physics is critical for understanding bullet drop, and many chemistry experiments can be performed with supplies found in the survivalist kitchen. The theory behind these sciences can be easily discovered in a low-cost college textbook purchased at a book sale, but beware of physics texts that are calculus-based unless you’re prepared to teach that as well.

Despite its reputation among the more practical-minded, art encourages creativity and appreciation for Creation. The easiest way to teach art during the crunch will likely be drawing, because all you need are pencils, paper, and a view of the great outdoors. Drawing also has practical value, because a precise drawing can communicate some information more effectively than the written word. Other forms of art, such as painting and music, require more supplies and equipment, making them more expensive and harder to continue once re-supply is impossible.

There are other subjects that you may wish to teach, such as geography, astronomy, or economics. My advice is the same for these topics—find excellent practical books on each, and let them guide how you teach. Some kids enjoy learning directly from books, but others will prefer a more hands-on approach. Use some creativity to provide the learning experience that best matches your child’s style, and remember that all the information you need is hidden in the pages of the books in your library.

In addition to purchasing all these books and supplies, you should to get the experience of teaching your kids now, before you need to do it. Just like it’s foolish to build an arsenal of firearms but skip weapons training, it isn’t easy to suddenly turn into a good teacher for your kids. Taking the time now to homeschool will help you get ready for when it’s necessary, and besides, both you and your kids will likely benefit from the additional time together. If you can’t homeschool full-time due to time or financial constraints, do you best to practice teaching in your spare time, by reading to your kids and doing fun experiments in the basement. Do whatever you can, both in terms of skill development and resource acquisition, because you owe it to your children to start preparing for the day when other options are no longer available and their education rests entirely in your hands.

JWR Adds: Even SurvivalBlog readers that currently send their children to private school should plan ahead for circumstances that might necessitate home schooling. This could be because of self-quarantine during a pandemic, a natural disaster that disrupts transportation and public school schedules, TEOTWAWKI, or even just the loss of income because of a layoff. Regardless, you should plan ahead, and start stocking up on home schooling curriculum!