“If there were no such thing in this world as becoming surety, if the free lending portrayed in the gospel were the general practice, and if only hard cash or wares on hand were exchanged in trade, then the greatest and most harmful dangers and faults and failings of trade and commerce would be well out of the way. It would then be easy to engage in all sorts of business enterprises, and the other sinful faults of trade could the more readily be prevented. If there were none of this becoming surety and this lending without risk, many a man would have to maintain his humble status and be content with a modest living who now aspires day and night to reach an exalted position, relying on borrowing and standing surety. That is why everyone now wants to be a merchant and get rich. From this stem the countless dangerous and wicked devices and dirty tricks that have today become a joke among the merchants. There are so many of them that I have given up the hope that trade can be entirely corrected; it is so overburdened with all sorts of wickedness and deception that in the long run it will not be able to sustain itself, but will have to collapse inwardly of its own weight.” – Martin Luther, Sermon On Trade And Usury (1520)
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Notes from JWR:
We had a couple of brief snow flurries this morning, but this afternoon it cleared up and we then had a beautiful sunset, with Alpenglühen on the Unnamed Mountain east of the valley. The sight was spectacular. We thank God for the blessing of living here.
I’ve updated my Cafe Press ordering page. There, you can order copies of both “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation”, and “The Best of the Blog” book as well as SurvivalBlog logo hats, T-Shirts, coffee mugs, et cetera. (BTW, I couldn’t resist injecting a bit of humor into the product descriptions. My apologies to Linda Hamilton.) Many of these items have a SurvivalBlog logo on the front and Heinlein’s famous “Specialization is for insects” quote on the back. Some of the items such as the SurvivalBlog refrigerator magnets, post cards, calendars, and bumper stickers are being sold at my actual cost, just to get the SurvivalBlog name out there. The goal, of course, is to have folks wear or carry SurvivalBlog logo items as conversation starters. Imagine if 20 people all showed up at Knob Creek or the SAR Show, wearing SurvivalBlog hats or T-shirts? (“It must be some kind of conspiracy!”) Many thanks for ordering my items from Cafe Press.Your orders help support SurvivalBlog. Every little bit helps. And you never know who you might meet if you wear a SurvivalBlog T-shirt to town, to a LDS cannery, to a gun show, or on a trip to the local rifle range. You could very well meet like-minded neighbors that you can count on when the Schumer hits the fan.
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The Price of Home Security: You Can Pay a Little Now, or Pay Much More, Later
I’m often amazed to hear some of my relatively wealthy consulting clients tell me that they don’t own a home gun vault or safe room. I ask why not, and they make excuses like: “I’ve been too busy at my job to shop for one” or, “A gun vault is too heavy to move, and I seem to move every three years”, or “vaults are too expensive.” Yes, they are expensive but not nearly as expensive as having some of your key survival tools stolen. In essence, you can pay a little now, or pay much more, later.
A burglary can be psychologically devastating. I have good friend in California that was burglarized three years ago. By God’s grace, only a couple of his guns were stolen, since most of his battery was either cached elsewhere or locked up in his gun vault. (He had a few too many guns for them all to fit in his vault.) The burglars also walked off with several thousand rounds of ammunition. Despite the fact that his loss was relatively small, my friend still talks with anger and bitterness about the event. Burglaries are especially devastating for survivalists, since most of us carefully and systematically stock up tools, communication gear, optics, guns, ammunition, and precious metals. These are all choice targets for residential burglars.
A built-in basement walk-in safe room is ideal. They can serve multiple functions: As a vault for guns and other valuables, as a storm shelter, as a fallout shelter, and even as a “panic room” for use in the event of a home invasion. In areas with high water tables where a basement is not practical, a safe room/shelter can be built on the ground floor of a newly-constructed “slab” house, or as an addition to an existing house, with a reinforced poured concrete floor, walls and ceiling. Regardless of the design that you choose, it is important to specify a vault door that opens inward, so that it won’t be jammed shut by debris in the event of tornado, hurricane, or bomb blast. The folks at Safecastle (one of our most loyal advertisers) can do the engineering and source the vault door for you.
I realize that most SurvivalBlog readers cannot afford an elaborate walk-in safe room, but 95% of you can at least afford a heavy duty steel gun vault with an Sargent & Greenleaf dial lock with re-locker. Be sure to bolt your vault securely to the floor, and if possible build it into a hidden compartment or hidden room. There are a lot of vault makers in the U.S. and Canada, so it is a very competitive market. Do some Internet research and comparison shopping and you can save a lot of money on your vault purchase. Vaults are quite heavy (typically around 700 pounds) and shipping them is expensive, so it is generally best to buy one that is made within 200 miles of where you live. One exception to that guidance is for folks that move often: The brand of free-standing gun vault that I highly recommend (and that I own personally) is Zanotti Armor. Zanotti makes vaults that can be taken apart into six pieces for ease of transport. (They are held together by large steel pins, inside the vault.) They cost only about $100 more than comparable vaults that are welded together in the traditional manner. The nice thing about the Zanotti vaults it that even with their largest model, no single component weighs more than about 150 pounds. That makes them much easier to install in a confined space such as a basement. Assembly is a three man job, since extra hands are needed to get everything lined up before the pins can be noisily driven into place. Assembly only takes about a half hour, and disassembly only takes about ten minutes.
Alarm and Camera Systems
No matter what sort of vault you choose, you should definitely supplement it with a home security system. Monitored alarm systems can be expensive–especially with monthly service contracts. But these days, “web cams” are dirt cheap. Buy several of them, and mount them in locations where they are not likely to be spotted immediately. (Such as up amongst books on your bookshelves.) Unless the motion-triggered images captured are immediately uploaded to a server that is off-site, then it is essential that the computer that controls the cameras and the hard drive that stores the images be housed inside your gun vault or safe room. Otherwise the burglars will walk off with the evidence. (They love to steal home computers, too.) Don’t forget that any disruption of phone service or grid power will nullify the protection of a monitored alarm. Anyone living off grid or anyone that foresees a period of extended blackouts should get a battery-powered self-contained camera system, such as those sold by Ready Made Resources. Photographic evidence is crucial for both tracking down perpetrators and for substantiating insurance claims. Don’t skimp on this important piece of your preparedness!
Insurance
Another must is fire and theft insurance. Given enough time, determined burglars can penetrate even the most elaborate vault. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, many homeowner’s insurance policies have specific limits on firearms, often absurdly low dollar figures unless you get a separate “rider ” to your policy, at additional cost. If you aren’t sure about your coverage, then pull out your policy and read through it in detail. I should also mention that the National Rifle Association (NRA) offers a modest dollar value firearms insurance policy that is free with each NRA membership.
Insurance Records
As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, I also recommend taking a list of serial numbers and detailed descriptions of each gun, camera, and electronic gadget that you own. I have found that using 3″x5″ index cards is convenient for updates, since your inventory will change over time. Also take a few detailed photos of each item. Store the 3″x5″ index cards and hard copy pictures annotated with each item’s serial number in a vault belonging to a relative or a trusted friend, and offer to do likewise for them.
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Letter Re: Total Burden of State Taxes
Mr. Rawles,
I reviewed the article from MSN Money regarding property taxes by state, mentioned by “J Eagle”. I could not help to look at Alabama because that is my home state. Unfortunately, I am not there now. However, property tax is low in Alabama but they have a 5% personal income tax and sales tax is charged on everything one purchases. This includes big ticket items such as cars and tractors (at a reduced rate from normal sales tax) to basic necessities (food, clothing, guns and ammunition at the normal sales tax rate). They also charge the pharmacies a tax of $1 per prescription filled, which is ultimately passed onto the consumer. Also, each county and/or municipality can increase their property tax by a vote of the people – if the state legislature allows the citizenry to have a referendum. This means that the state is controlled by politicians in the legislature.
All this is said to say, look at the total tax structure of any state. A state, such as Texas has higher property tax, but no personal income tax. This could be much better overall.
I am an accountant and have had many years to look over many different states income tax structure. While I use to look only at the tax structure of a state, I now look at the states’ attitude toward preparedness. You see, many states will not tax seed purchased, nor trees purchased. Some states will not tax food purchased nor clothing. I have tried to learn which states tax what items. Also, shopping via the internet can be a tax saving tactic, but be careful!
Some states are planning to audit credit card statements to tax items that no tax was paid when items were purchased out of state, but consumed in their state. This is called “Use Tax” in some states. It can be potentially a tax trap.
When I travel, I will set aside one to three hours to go shopping in states where I can save between 8 and 10 percent on purchases I need. Many times I am in a SUV and transporting the goods is not an issue. When I was in a Costco for the first time, I was in a tax friendly state for food purchases. Unfortunately, I was in a rental car and had to fly home the next day. I could not help to buy some items my family needed for our “‘burban” retreat (which nobody knows about) but I was able to ship the items via UPS to my house – still cheaper overall that I would have paid at home.
My wife says that I have an attitude of over-analyzing. But I hope to be prepared if needed. – Happy Howie
JWR Replies: You are correct that it is the total tax burden for each state that must be considered, not just property taxes. I have some instructive tables on this in my recently released book “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.” Every state seems to get its “pound of flesh”, one way or the other. Clearly , however, the more populous/intrusive socialist Nanny States like California, Wisconsin, and Massachusetts take a bigger total bite than most other states. Folks that are in their prime income earning years are rightfully more concerned with income taxes. This makes states with no personal income tax (like Nevada and Wyoming) quite appealing. But for poor folks like me, and for retirees that are “land rich and cash poor”, property taxes are much bigger factor. Also don’t overlook the insidious taxes like private vehicle registration. That can make a big difference, especially if you have several cars and trucks. For example, depending on the age of the vehicle, registering in Idaho costs only $24 to $48 per year, but I’ve heard that just across the state line in Montana, depending on the variable “County Option” tax it typically costs $48 to $257 per year. Ouch! (But of course there is no sales tax in Montana, so there are trade-offs.)
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Letter Re: Lessons From an Unexpected Grid Down Weekend
Hi Jim,
We just had a bout with Mother Nature and lost power which appeared at first to be for some time. I am happy to report that my “list” generated from this un-expected “grid-down” weekend was very very very short. I attribute this success and wonderful feeling to what I have gleaned from your publications, SurvivalBlog, and a few very good friends! We were without power for about 40 hours and really only had two “needs”. I was actually “disappointed” when the power came back on. J Oh, and we did not use the power generation until hour 38 and were still very comfortable. The generation was only used for the following two items.
The following were my bigger decisions that I made, or pondered-
1). Knowing this was likely a short term situation, (i.e. – 2 weeks or less) I decided to maintain the freezers via generation.
2). Given the demands of livestock, we were considering a short-term need of pumped water, (rather than relocate to surface water).
The situation for livestock watering led me down a path I had not thought of. How to keep the stock tanks heated without wasting valuable fuel and without the necessary sunlight for solar solutions, (i.e.- bad storm, no sun). Given our outside temps, we were fortunate, but it could have been sub-zero.
In talking with my Father, he mentioned that a wood fired or corn cob fired submersible tank heater was how they maintained open water back in the day without power. I have searched online and so far have not found anything but a Japanese wood fired spa/ tank heater called a CHOFU. (See www.thesolar.biz for the CHOFU and other items. I have no affiliation with them.) What I would really like to find is a coal fired tank heater that can last longer and be without the fumbling of wood ignition in the raw of a storm. Does anyone have some answers on this matter?
The storm broke off many hundreds of power poles leaving behind downed and dangerous power lines, (which were very hard to see). This brought another valuable lesson. A secondary exit route from our property in the event that the lines above our drive are on the ground, (something I had not thought of).
In the mix of the storm, I helped a friend wire his furnace into his generator, (taking all the appropriate safety measures and considering Lineman safety) in a matter of 15 minutes. This was truly rewarding.
In my discussions with him later, we decided that we were better off having our own private well rather than what we felt was a disadvantage of being on a “community well”. Namely for getting water without power. In the instance we discussed, the well only served about six homes and boasted a 5 HORSEPOWER well pump! I hate to think of the cost of the generator needed to power up that baby, and the likely voltage drop in running extension cords to the location of the well in this instance would not even be feasible.
There are positives to a community well; I am simply outlining the disadvantage as we saw it in our situation.
As a side note, make sure that the alternative power supply to the well pump is sufficient to not “lag” the startup of the motor. I think this is the quick death of electronics. It is easier on the well pump to keep the pump running than to stop and start it, keep that in mind for future reference. I wanted to take this opportunity to say “Thank You” for the SurvivalBlog site. I hope you find reward in another success story and hope others act on their intentions as well, so they may experience the peace I had during this very simple situation. I would feel more embarrassed than I do had I not contributed to the Ten Cent Challenge, pre-storm! I suggest the many others who value your service contribute to the cause. It only takes seconds, and it can save lives. (Does that sound like it is worth $36.50 a year???) Read it, Learn it, Buy it, Use it! – The Wanderer
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Odds ‘n Sods:
A warning from veteran economic analyst Harry Shultz, by way of BULL!, (Not Bull)
o o o
Desert T . mentioned this New York Times article on honeybee Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD).
o o o
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“I knew I’d been living in Berkeley too long when I saw a sign that said ‘Free Firewood’ and my first thought was ‘Who was Firewood, and what did he do?'” – John Berger
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Notes from JWR:
I was pleased to see the new Wikipedia page on Antique Guns. It includes digests on the laws concerning antque guns for the U.S, Canada, the UK, Australia, and Norway. And one of the authors kindly included links to a couple of my FAQs, as well as a link to a long-time SurvivalBlog advertiser: The Pre-1899 Specialist. I highly recommend that every well-prepared family’s firearms battery should include a few cartridge guns from the 1890s, chambered in calibers that are still factory produced. Why? If the Democrats ever control both the White House and Congress (which looks all too likely, in just two years), then we may be subjected to nationwide gun registration. In that event, you would be required to register all of the modern guns in your collection. Pre-1899 guns have been Federally exempt since 1968. Odds are that they will continue to be exempt under any new Federal gun registration scheme. (It is hard for the congresscritters to claim continued “interstate commerce” on an item that was first sold across state lines more than a hundred years ago!) So, presumably you will be able to own some unregistered antique guns. This “above ground” portion of your collection would be ideal for your day-to-day hunting, self defense, and target shooting needs. Think about it. If nothing else, pre-1899 guns are a great investment. There is only a limited supply of bona fide shootable antique cartridge guns, and their prices are steadily rising. Since the “antique” threshold was arbitraily frozen at 1898, their numbers are dwindling. So their prices will continue to rise, regardless of whether or not the U.S. gun laws get any worse.
Today we present another article submitted for Round 9 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $1,600.) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. If you want a chance to win the contest, start writing and e-mail us your article. Round 9 will end on March 31st. Remember that the articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
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Bear Country Basics, by “SNO” in Alaska
Many times when we think of survival skills, our minds turn to the most exotic and specialized of skills. When reading on Survivalblog about this writing assignment I fell victim to this same tendency. My initial idea was to write an article on the construction and operation of a fish wheel, commonly used here in my home state of Alaska, and a tool of great value in a survival/retreat situation. But the detail and complexity of such writing is more involved that practical for this forum. So rather than try and explain some intricate and complex device or skill, that will likely never be utilized, I remembered the old K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) principle and turned my attention towards a topic that is often overlooked: bear safety.
The tendency to think of the extravagant before we think of the mundane is fairly common in the outdoors and disaster prep/survival crowds. We all either know the type of person, or have heard of this type of person. You know it’s the guy with a virtual arsenal but who only keeps a couple boxes of ammo around. Or there is my own personal favorite, the “Survivalist” who owns all the latest electronic gadgets and gizmos, including a state of the art color display GPS unit, but has no idea how to use a map and compass. Here in Alaska, and in many areas out in “Bear Country” we see a plethora outdoorsmen both locals and visitors that are completely ignorant of basic safety procedures in these habitats.
Readers may be tempted to skip over this information or dismiss this essay because they “do not live in bear country.” This may be true for many readers, but when we discuss survival in times of disaster, being it natural or man-made, many people would be leaving their homes and venturing into the backyards of our Ursine neighbors. So weather your like me, and often encounter bears when out in the woods (or in your yard), or a city slicker well away from bear country, the following K.I.S.S. Bear Country Basics may prove to be valuable to anyone, and who knows, maybe it could even save your life.
Bear Basics
Most readers likely run a greater chance of encountering a black bear than any other species. The black bear can be found in many states across a large percentage of the country. Most black bears average 5-6 feet long and weigh from 150-500 pounds at best. While many black bears are indeed black in color, particularly in the Eastern U.S., these animals can also be found in various shades of brown, cinnamon and even blondish. Despite this variance in color, most black bears are either black or a much deeper shade of brown than your average brown bear. (See box below for identifying characteristics)
Brown bears, also known as Grizzly’s, are the other species of bear that one is likely to encounter in the wild. Brown bears are much less common in the wild and outside of Alaska and Canada they are likely to be found only in Montana, Idaho and Wyoming and possibly Washington. The brown bear is depicted on the California state flag however none are thought to live there currently and they are generally considered to be a threatened species south of Canada.
Browns are seen in light shades of brown, golden browns to chocolate shades and although there are variations in color as with the black bear, most browns are generally a much lighter brown than the typical black bear. Brown bears can grow to be well over 10 feet tall and weigh 1200 pounds at their biggest. The largest of these brown bears are sub-species know as Kodiak brown bears as they are found only in Kodak and surrounding islands in Alaska, although other quite large bears can be found elsewhere as well. (See link below)
Lastly, a quick note on the polar bear: If you ever see a big white bear with a black nose, and your not standing at a zoo exhibit, immediately turn and travel due South (towards the sun) as you have likely made a navigational error.
Before continuing, I would like to stress that there is no way that anyone (myself included) can predict animal behavior. However the following information is widely available and generally accepted as the best steps you can take to minimize the chances you’ll have an unwanted encounter with a bear, and if you do, some of this information may help you handle the situation. But as always, use this information, as well as that from other sources, along with your best judgment to handle any bear encounter. Also, many of these same tips and suggestions may be applicable to other predators in your area if bear do not inhabit your home or retreat location. Finally, I’d like to remind readers that this is only to be a cursory overview of bear safety information and not an exhaustive essay on the topic. For further, and more in-depth information, please see the links following the text below for more information.
On the Trail
Bear encounters while walking through the wilderness are fairly rare, but they are a serious concern to those traveling through bear country. The worst thing that a hiker can do is to sneak up on a bear or surprise them in any way. This is particularly true if the bear is with a cub(s). Groups traveling in the woods generally have less of a problem with sneaking up on a bear(s) as larger groups will tend to make enough noise to warn to bear of their location. Solo hikers or small groups run a greater risk of sneaking up (even unintentionally) and surprising a bear, thus putting them a greater risk of an unwanted encounter and possible attack.
Whether alone, in a small or large group, the best thing you can do to stay safe on the trail is to make some noise. Most any bear, and other predators will likely leave the immediate area if they know a group of people are coming their way. In this sense, the animal does not want to “encounter” you anymore than you want to “encounter” it. As a general rule, the thicker the surrounding brush and vegetation is, the more noise you want to make. High on a ridge above the tree line with great visibility, the noise becomes less important as the bear will likely smell you before they hear you anyway. But down in the forest, through the thick willows and such, making noise can prevent a dangerous situation by allowing the bear enough warning to move away from you path and avoid an encounter.
Hikers in bear country will often attach a noisemaker to their packs, such as bells, or even change in a small can to make a steady stream of sound, without requiring the hikers to continuously talk. This of course leads to the famous Alaskan joke: “How can you identify the scat from a Grizzly Bear? It’s the type with all the little bells in it.” But seriously, the bells are an effective noisemaker and have served my family (especially my kids) well over the years. Also keep on the lookout for bear sign, including tracks, scat, scratched up trees/posts and dug up ground to alert you to definite bear presence in the area.
The advice of making noise on the trail may become more of an liability than an asset in certain situations. Hunters obviously would need to observe some noise discipline once they reach their hunting grounds. Also, OPSEC concerns may cause some people to need to travel through the wilderness extremely quietly, come TEOTWAWKI. Just remember that even the largest of bears can travel extremely quietly, and when one does encounter a bear along a trail, they always seem to come from nowhere with little or no warning. My last Grizzly encounter: Three of us were hiking and stopped along the trail for a water break. I looked over my shoulder and there was an 8 foot tall Griz standing on his hind legs less than 20 feet away. He made no sound, no rustling in the willow thicket, and gave no warning at all. In those situations, keep you eyes and ears open, and be ready for anything that comes your way. (More on encountering a bear, below)
Camp Safety
This one is actually very simple, and boils down to just one thing: Keep yourself and your camp as clean and sanitary as possible.
The following bulleted points will be important in reducing the risk of a bear encounter/attack while at the campsite.
– Select a good campsite in bear country. Avoid setting up your camp next to a huge patch of blueberries (or other food source) for example. Before setting up your camp, scout the area looking for any signs of bear activity. This could be anything from a large ripped up patch of earth, to a partially eaten carcass. When in doubt, look for an alternative site. Campsites next to rushing water can also be problematic as the noise from the stream can mask the noises you may make that would alert a bear to your presence.
– Avoid packing fresh perishable foods that have a strong smell (meat, fish) that would tend to attract a bear. Dehydrated or freeze dried foods are preferred. Example: Oatmeal for breakfast will attract less attention from a bear than bacon and eggs.
– Also avoid wearing strong smelling cologne or perfume; even the scents from certain soaps and shampoos can attract a bear. Note: I always store EVERYTHING but clothing, sleeping supplies and a weapon (or 2) outside the tent site. This includes things like soap, deodorant etc. which is stored along with our food supply. NOTE: Once widely held, current theory is that bears are not attracted to a menstruating female so that should not be a big concern, but other scents should be minimized.
– Food should be stored in bear-proof containers or “bear bags,” heavy rubberized bags designed for food storage and to minimize scent transmission. If trees are present, it is best to suspend all food (and waste) at least 10 feet above the ground and 5 feet from the trunk of the tree. If possible, string a rope between 2 trees and suspend the food along the line in the space between 2 trees. This location should be well away from camp, and remember that food should never be brought into the tent or campsite.
– If above the tree line, use a bear-proof container if possible and always store food well away from the campsite. In open areas I have even used large stones to somewhat burry my food supply in a bear bag. This would likely prove useless if a bear came upon my food cache, but it always feels strange to leave a food bag simply resting on the open ground outside of camp.
– Never bring food into your tent or immediate camp area. All cooking, cleaning and food storage should be done at least 100+ feet from the outer perimeter of your campsite. (Preferably downwind from campsite)
– When ever possible, wash up before entering your campsite especially after meals to remove odors that may be present. If you have spilled food on any clothing, it is best to wash the clothing immediately or store it with your food supply if that is not possible. Do not take soiled clothing into the tent with you.
– Garbage should be disposed of immediately (packed out or burned) and dirty dishes should be washed promptly. If burning food waste, ensure that it is burned to ash and that the burning is done away from the tent site. When making a campsite make two fire pits if needed. One at your cooking site, and a “clean” fire site beside your tents to use for heat and light, but no food should be in this area.
With a little time and practice, these simple measures to prevent attracting a bear to your campsite will become second nature. Insist on keeping a clean campsite with a separate food storage and preparation site located adjacent to your tent site. A bear has average hearing and vision, but extremely sensitive sense of smell, so it is imperative to keep all odors that may be alluring to a bear well outside of your tent site.
Bear Encounters:
So you’ve let your presence be known on the trail, or you’ve done all you can to have a safe and clean campsite, but you still attract or otherwise encounter a bear. Here are some simple steps to take to help you through the situation. Again, these are just general recommendations and are not always completely foolproof as animal behavior is unpredictable. However the following recommendations are generally accepted as solid advice when encountering a bear.
– STAY CALM! Assess your situation, and use your best judgment. Remember that there are no actions guaranteed to be life saving when encountering a wild animal. A bear just like a dog or any other animal can sense fear. Screaming or throwing things or otherwise acting aggressively toward the bear may provoke an attack.
– Never feed or otherwise approach a bear. Even (or especially) a cub who appears all alone may have mom very near by, and if you are closer to the cub than the mother bear is, you will likely be seen as a threat.
– Do not run away! This should be a LAST RESORT. Running away from a predator may excite it to chase after you. (Its predatory instinct). Running can essentially turn a non-aggressive bear into a real threat. Besides bear can run as fast as 30 miles and hour, so the possibility of outrunning a bear is next to zero.
– If there is space, simply continue to face the bear and slowly back away while speaking to the bear in a calm even voice. Once a safe distance from the bear, raise your noise level so the bear can be aware of your location and attempt to find an alternative route to your destination if possible. (Note: In well over 40 unexpected bear encounters I have had, this simple technique has worked in all but a couple of situations.)
– A bear standing up on its back legs does not signal aggression or an impending charge. Generally bears will rise up on the back legs and sniff the air to better pick up your scent.
If the Bear Charges or Attacks
Here everything would essentially be thrown out the window, however here are a few ideas to keep in mind if the situation occurs. You essentially have three options: play dead, run, or stand your ground and fight. Always look for a way to avoid confrontation and leave the bear an avenue of escape if possible. Although brown bears are known for their bluff charges, consider any movement toward you as aggressive behavior (most bears will simply run away the other direction). Other aggressive behaviors include making a “whoofing” sound, and pulling back their ears or stomping the ground with their front paws. BE READY TO ACT!
– As soon as you see a bear, try and determine if you are dealing with a black or a Grizzly (brown bear) as you actions may differ depending on the animal your dealing with.
Playing Dead
This is actually a viable option, although the nerve it requires in hard to fathom. I have met one person who used this technique and lived to tell about it. This guy as his rifle tied to his pack (oops!) and couldn’t get to it in time and got charged and mauled by a brownie in the mountains outside Delta, Alaska. The pack served as a shield (he spun it around to his belly) and he laid flat on his back. His partner, about 25 yards back was able shoulder his rifle and shot the bear, as it began to charge toward him. I actually saw the bag the guy was wearing and it had some big gashes in it, and the aluminum frame was bent but the guy escaped with only bumps and bruises.
– Playing dead is only an option if you are viewed as a threat to the bear. If you startle a bear or if you get to close to a cub, you are a threat and playing dead may remove the threat for the bear and end the attack.
– If a bear attacks you in a tent, or from the open, in a situation where it has a chance to escape but charges anyway, then playing dead is most likely not an option. These types of attacks are generally by juveniles and occur in the fall when they are desperate to pack on some weight before winter. In such a scenario, you would be viewed as a source of food, not a threat, so your choices would be to run or fight back at all costs.
– It is said that playing dead is generally more effective with Grizzly bears rather than black bears. I’m not sure why that is the case, but several game biologists, park rangers as well as the bear safety presentation at the Alaska Public Lands Information Center included this information. Their message was simple, if it’s a black bear FIGHT!
Running Away
To me running away really has only two chances of being successful. One is that the bear is mounting a bluff charge, or otherwise terminates the charge as you turn to escape. Remember, even the biggest bear can run twice as fast as the average person so your chances here are slim. Two, if a Grizzly charges you and there is a climbable tree in the immediate area (big enough to escape danger and not get swatted down by the bear) running may be a good option given ample time/space. Black bears are incredible climbers and if they are looking for a meal, a tree won’t stand in their way, and thus the previous advise to fight a black bear if it attacks. Brown bear are able to climb tries but only in a very limited way. If the tree is ample size and height, it should offer you a good chance at safety from a brown.
Stand Your Ground and Fight
Again, there is noting here that any man can say that can really guide you as what to do, but here are some thoughts, and this is where we, as self-reliant people who are generally very well prepared would hopefully have an advantage over your average Joe. Your first option here is a can of bear spray which is essentially a large canister of pepper spray that shoots a large stream of chemical irritant with a range of 20-30 feet. These spray cans are quite effective and they are your only real option (under normal circumstances) in national parks, as firearms are not allowed within most parks. The big drawback with the spray is that it doesn’t last long and you don’t even want to think about spraying it into a strong wind.
I’m sure most people reading this are quite familiar with firearms so I will spare you too much detail in this department. I follow the principle of shoot the biggest round that you can comfortably and accurately shoot. I favor the .44 magnum revolver for always with you bear protection, and often carry a .45 semiautomatic as well for insurance. Larger rounds are available in droves, but I’m comfortable with the .44. I’ve heard offhand accounts of black bears being killed with a 9mm, but to me that’s just pushing your luck a bit. Still when venturing into bear country, I would take ANY firearm over none at all.
Long guns, rifles or shotguns, are of course a great too here is you have the space to use one. Rifles at least .300 [Magnum] and up would be recommended, probably bigger if you know you’ll frequently be encountering and/or hunting bear, particularly Grizzlies. Shotguns are certainly effective as well. I would recommend the heaviest shot you can get your hands on. Some people here in Alaska will alternate a slug shell with heavy shot for bear protection, which I’d assume is effective when called upon. The bottom line, like any situation where a firearm may be needed is to be prepared. I myself have had bear encounters outside my cabin where you set the shotgun down for “just one second” when nature calls, or to do some work, and out of nowhere a bear comes strolling into view. That’s why you always keep your sidearm with you if there is even a chance of a bear in the area.
One final note on shooting a bears is that they have extremely thick bone structure in their foreheads that can deflect a bullet. This is particularly true of Grizzly bears, but all bear share this trait. Th eFish and Game Department here in Alaska has some Grizzly skulls with little channels bored out in the forehead from bullets striking the skull and glancing upward. If possible, I would recommend aiming for the chest rather than the head if the bear is charging at you
In Summary
Bear encounters and attacks, as well as other predator attacks are very rare, but they do happen, so prepare for them as you would prepare any other threat that you may face. I hope that this essay will prove to be of some value to you whether preparing for a family vacation or perhaps when the SHTF. Keep in mind that these same principles can be applicable to some extent with other predatory animals as well, although each individual animal is quite unpredictable, and no book, essay or lecture can ensure your safety.
Some Links:
Alaska State Parks – Bear Safety
Black Bear Facts
Brown/Grizzly Bear Facts
Amazing Pics of Massive Grizzly – along with myths and true story of the photos
Hunting in Bear Country – tips and info with attack story
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Letter Re: Kanban: America’s Ubiquitous “Just in Time” Inventory System–A Fragile House of Cards
Dear Jim:
Your web site is excellent. A few thoughts on Mark’s e-mail on JIT delivery.(Posted on February 25th.)
(1) For 34 years my job has taken me over the interstate highway/parkway system in New Jersey and Metropolitan New York City. Any accident, no matter how minor, affects traffic flow in both directions; the actual “event” and the “rubber neckers” slowing down to watch from the opposite side. Under the best conditions, the Staten Island Expressway (I-278) slows to a crawl approaching the Verrazano Narrows Bridge.
(2) The two major north/south routes in New Jersey are the New Jersey Turnpike (I-95) and the Garden State Parkway. US Route 1 is antiquated, congested and it runs through every small town in the state. The New Jersey Turnpike handles both passenger car and truck traffic. The Garden State Parkway is restricted to cars and small trucks because the overpasses (particularly in North Jersey) are low and cannot accommodate trucks.
(3) Both of these major highways have numerous bridges and overpasses. The most critical is in Woodbridge, New Jersey where the Garden State Parkway crosses over the New Jersey Turnpike. There is also an extended elevated portion of the New Jersey Turn Pike running near New York City. If 19 terrorists could destroy the World Trade Center and damaging the Pentagon with aircraft, how difficult would it be to sufficiently damage a highway bridge or overpass, thus severing a major transportation artery.
(4) New York City and the surrounding area is even more vulnerable. The map shows 6 bridges and two tunnels west of New York and 7 bridges and 2 tunnels spanning the East River. The only access to Queens, Brooklyn and Long Island is via a bridge or tunnel.
(5) With the decline of the northeastern railroads, significant quantities of critical materials move by truck. Truck transportation requires strong, passable highways and most importantly functioning bridges and tunnels. Every major port city in America has bridges and tunnels and even inland cities have rivers, rail lines, etc. spanned by bridges.
Are these assets sufficiently protected to insure their viability? – JH
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Odds ‘n Sods:
I’ve added a few more Affiliate Advertisers, including 1-800 GET LENS and the bookseller Chapters.indigo.ca in Canada. These join our big list of established affiliates that includes Lehmans.com, US Cavalry Store, Nitro-Pak, and Northern Tool & Equipment. (Those four generate more revenue for SurvivalBlog than all of the other affiliates, combined!) Of course, please give our paid (scrolling banner) advertisers your business first. But if they don’t have the products you are looking for, then please next patronize our affiliate advertisers. When you place an order via the web links from our Affiliates Page, we get a little piece of the action. Thanks!
o o o
Michael Z. Williamson sent a link to useful site: a friend of his has developed and tested a method of converting European Berdan primed brass to Boxer priming.It looks like a very labor intensive process for salvaging a 10 cent piece of brass. But in a pinch, it could be done. Be forewarned that that if you start doing this, that cartridge head stamps will no longer serve as a sure indicator for you in sorting your supply of fired brass. For any formerly “Known Berdan” head stamps, you will then have to individually inspect each fired case with a bright flashlight to determine whether or not it has been Boxer-converted. There is nothing quite like when you get when you try to de-cap a piece of brass and you feeling something odd during the de-capping/re-sizing stroke, as you realize that the piece of brass was Berdan-primed. The decapping pin usually comes out bent around almost 180 degrees like a fish hook. It is even possible to bend a de-capping rod–effectively destroying your resizing die. OBTW, I have friends in Canada that have a Berdan de-capping and re-capping rig. Berdan primers are available via mail order from The Old Western Scrounger.If you ever buy a large quantity of Berdan-primed military surplus ammo, then it might be worthwhile to get set up to re-prime with fresh Berdan primers.
o o o
Bob G. told us about this fascinating piece by Alexander B. Korelin
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"Qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum." ("Let him who desires peace prepare for war.") Usually more simply quoted as "Si vis pacem, para bellum." – Flavius Vegetius Renatus circa (375 AD), in Epitoma rei Militaris
Notes from JWR:
Hooray! The Best of the Blog, Volume 1 is now orderable! Thanks for your patience, folks. This volume covers the first six months of SurvivalBlog posts, from August, 2005 to January, 2006. This period included some of the most important SurvivalBlog posts that spell out all of the crucial steps for family preparedness. Also included in this volume is The SurvivalBlog Glossary. In all, a whopping 295 pages of useful, no-nonsense “how-to” information. Fully indexed! Wire-o bound. (Lays flat for easy reference.) To make it easy to find what you need, the book is organized by subject area, rather than chronologically. Available as a print-on-demand book from Cafe Press. (The same folks that publish Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.) Someday the power grid may be down, but you can still have all the crucial SurvivalBlog material at your fingertips! Order your copy today!
Here is the Table of Contents for The Best of the Blog, Volume 1:
Introduction | 7 |
Part 1: The “Worst Case” and the Survival Mindset | 9 |
Part 2: Retreat Logistics: Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids | 25 |
Part 3: Gardening and Livestock | 49 |
Part 4: Retreat Security and Self Defense | 71 |
Part 5: Retreat Locales | 105 |
Part 6: Communications and Monitoring | 111 |
Part 7: Food Storage and Cooking | 121 |
Part 8: Fuel Storage | 133 |
Part 9: Vehicles | 143 |
Part 10: G.O.O.D. and Bug Out Considerations | 153 |
Part 11: First Aid, Medical, Sanitation, and Physical Fitness | 163 |
Part 12: Recent Experiences and Emerging Threats | 187 |
Part 13: Self-Sufficiency and Home-Based Businesses | 197 |
Part 14: Investing, Economics, and Barter | 215 |
Part 15: Gleanings from the Odds ‘n Sods | 235 |
Appendix A: Sources, Suppliers, and Consultants | 239 |
Appendix B: References | 241 |
Appendix C: The SurvivalBlog Glossary | 243 |
Index | 281 |
Now back to what you were expecting to see in SurvivalBlog today…
The large volume of letters that I’ve received (about half of which are posted below) illustrate that I must have stepped on some toes when I bad-mouthed .223 Remington as a defense rifle cartridge. My apologies if I offended anyone’s sensibilities. (My comment “”I consider an AR-15 equipped with a Beta magazine as the ultimate defense weapon for a retreat under attack by a human wave of palsied, midget, and/or wheelchair-bound looters” was meant to be humorous.) All kidding aside, I stand by my statement that .223 is not a sure man-stopper especially at long range. In contrast, .308 Winchester/7.62mm NATO is a well-proven stopper, from zero meters to out beyond 400. As a survivalist, I strive for versatility in all aspects of my planning, and .308 clearly provides greater versatility than .223. Nuff said.
Five Letters Re: An Opinion on .223 Remington/5.56mm NATO
James,
I’d like to make a few points regarding the .223 cartridge. I am not as enthusiastic about it as Stephen D. seems to be, but I think it’s good for more than defense against, “a human wave of palsied, midget, and/or wheelchair-bound looters.” The .223/5.56 produces its nasty wounds through fragmentation, rather than tumbling. Any spitzer projectile, including the .308, is going to tumble when it hits a dense medium like water or human flesh. A bullet will generally flip around 180 degrees and continue it’s travel through the body backwards (for a body that’s pointed on one end and
blunt on the other, blunt end first is the most stable configuration).
Simply getting a .223 bullet to do a 180 doesn’t increase it’s wounding potential much, since it flips over rather quickly and then makes the same size hole going backwards as it did going forward. Fragmentation, on the other hand, is what causes truly devastating wounds. While fragmentation is rather inconsistent, it is not random. There are a lot of variables that determine whether or not a .223 round is going to fragment (including bullet construction, what part of the body it hits, etc.), but by far the most important one is velocity.
The cutoff seems to be around 2500-2700 feet per second. Faster than 2700 fps, fragmentation is practically certain, below 2500 fps, you have a .22 caliber ice pick. So anyone who wants to inflict serious wounds with their .223 rifle needs to ensure that the bullet arrives with sufficient velocity.
There are the big things that affect the velocity of the bullet when it hits the target: barrel length, bullet weight, and range. To give an idea of how the first three can interact, consider this example. A
55 grain M193 bullet (the old U.S. military standard issue round) fired from a 20-inch barrel will stay above 2700 feet per second out to almost 200 meters. On the other hand, a 62 grain M855 bullet (the current U.S. standard issue) fired from a 11.5-inch barrel will drop below 2700 fps in less than fifteen meters! Many of the recent ‘failure to stop’ incidents reported from Iraq and Afghanistan (and
even as far back as Somalia) involve soldiers firing the M855 bullet through M4 carbines with 14.5 inch barrels. This combination will only produce fragmentation out to about 50 meters or so. Beyond that, the odds of doing the target a lethal injury go way down. Soldiers with longer barreled weapons (like the 20-inch barrel of the M16 rifle and 18-inch barrel of the M249 SAW) tend not to have as many problems.
The other big obstacle to fragmentation is cover. This is perhaps the .223 round’s greatest weakness, it’s inability to penetrate barriers. The little 55 grain round just doesn’t have the mass to punch through even fairly light cover and retain enough velocity to fragment. So, anyone who wants to employ the .223 round for personal defense should keep these factors in mind: Use a fairly long barrel. 20-inches is best, but it means you give up some of the handiness that’s an advantage of a .223 rifle in the first place. 16-inches (the longest easily available to civilians in the U.S.) is a good compromise. Use a fairly light bullet. A 55-grain bullet like the old M193 round is probably best. Lighter ‘varmint’ bullets are available, but though they will fragment readily, they may not have sufficient penetration to reach the vitals. They may also break apart in flight if fired through a gun with a fast twist (1 in 7 or 1 in 9) designed to stabilize the heavier 62 grain round. Don’t rely on a .223 for extreme ranges. A 16-inch barrel with a 55 grain bullet will stay above 2700fps (fast enough to fragment) out to about 150 meters. Beyond that, lethality is going to drop off quite a bit.
Don’t shoot through stuff. If an opponent is behind cover, a heavier caliber is going to be necessary to dig them out.
So how does the .223 stack up as a defensive round? In a true SHTF situation, not all that well. It’s perfectly possible to use 55 grain bullets and a longer barrel to get pretty good performance from a .223
rifle. The limited effective range is a disadvantage, but just how big of a disadvantage depends on the terrain to be defended. In wooded or urban areas, long shots are rare and the extra reach of a
round like the .308 may not be necessary. The really serious disadvantage is the inability to penetrate cover. Potential opponents probably aren’t going to charge across and open field to be mowed
down. Having a rifle that can penetrate through a substantial tree or the bodywork of a car and still have enough punch left to inflict a lethal wound is a big advantage.
On the other hand, if the Schumer has not yet hit the fan, the .223 is a much more appealing choice. In a situation where authorities will be investigating claims of self defense, a truly long range rifle
isn’t necessary. If a target is beyond the effective range of a .223 rifle, it is going to be very difficult to justify using deadly force.
Similarly, for those of us who live in urban areas, the .223’s anemic penetration is actually an advantage. A .308 round has enormous penetrating power, particularly through wood frame construction. Fire
it in self defense and miss and it could pass through every house on the block before coming to a rest. A .223 allows the greater effectiveness of a rifle while decreasing the damage an errant round
might do.
If you can only have one rifle, a .308 is probably the best all-around choice. However, if you are worried about home defense right now, rather than just in case of TEOTWAWKI, a .223 rifle is very appealing. If funds allow, it might be useful to get a rifle in each caliber. To avoid the need to learn two completely different rifles, the best
option may be to purchase the same design in both calibers. Several weapon systems [allowing commonality of training] are available for both rounds, including the AR-10/AR-15 and the HK91/HK93.
Most of the technical information given above comes from www.ammo-oracle.com. For those who are interested in the subject, this site has an extremely thorough discussion of the ballistics and
wounding potential of the .223 round. – Chris
James:
I would have to agree with Stephen on the 5.56 ammo. If you are shooting either the m193 55gr. or the SS109 62gr. as long as the bullet velocity is maintained above 2700fps then there is dramatic fragmentation. This is due to the military cannelure, when the bullet enters flesh it starts to yaw (tumble) once the bullet reaches 90 degrees the jacket comes apart causing massive wound injuries. This is only true of military style ammo, not plinking ammo or wolf. I feel that the 5.56 is more effective then 308 at 200 yards or less, but after 200 yards I would only recommend the 308. I do not expect you to believe just me so go to www.ammo-oracle.com or there is a link on www.ar-15.com also. Another thing we must all take into consideration that the supply of surplus 308 is getting scarce and no major military is using it in mass quantities (that I am aware of) 5.56 is here to stay for a while and is readily available. In the event of a NATO or military invasion of US soil it is what the troops will be carrying so it would be nice to know that the enemies ammo can be used in our guns. Just a little food for thought. Great blog – Brian in Wyoming
Jim,
I thought you, and the readers might find this link interesting The same site offers a daily e-mail with all their stories. Some good stuff as to the internal workings of government and the defense industry.
Also, as far as cartridges go, while you may think the .223 a bit anemic, I think it’s ideal for CQB, provided you are wearing ear protection, and your adversary is not. However, one thing that constantly seems to get overlooked in all firearm technology (especially when it comes to the .223 vs anything debate) are some of the newer bullet technologies out there.
Specifically frangible ammunition offers some advantages over your standard military ball ammo. For the most part, humans are relatively thin. I’m sure even the largest of people are no more than 1-2 feet thick. Which means, any bullet striking the body has to do whatever it is that it does in that distance. While I am in total agreement that M193’s fragmentation capability is arbitrary and not something to count on, explosive varmint bullets (like the Hornady VMAX and AMAX), and frangible bullets are more likely to increase the lethal effects of these “mouse gun” cartridges.
One thing that the .308 has in it’s favor these days is availability. There is still a substantial amount of “on the shelf” stock in .308 as well as surplus 7.62mm. As opposed to .223 which seems to be in incredibly short supply. The other day my friend stopped by, he was on his way to the range, and was only able to find 2 boxes of .223 and for $10 each! I gave him 100 rounds
with the agreement that they were to be replaced with 100 rounds of .308 ammo, and on the way back from the range he dropped off 5 boxes of American Eagle .308. Once again, it really pays to be prepared! Sincerely, – Drew
Dear Jim:
I second your opinion on the .308. Besides the ability to stop an attacker much faster and more consistently, another big factor is that the .308 has the huge advantage of penetrating much more cover than the .223.
Tactically, most often after the first few rounds, all will be hit, behind cover, or moving to it. Do you want to keep their heads down with a.223, or shoot through that tree or wall they are hiding behind?
Sometimes you just have to lug the weight, if you want the right tool for the job. Half measures don’t cut it. The .223s are great for small game, training, youngsters and petite folks, but if you have the upper body strength carry a .308, then do so. And if you don’t, then hit the gym!
Also you can modify .308s to make them more balanced, ergonomic and easier to handle:
— retrofit more ergonomic pistol grips, e.g., ergogrips.net, or file down your grips to get a better grip angle
–cover grip surfaces with 3M Safety Walk grip tape (the stuff used on steps to prevent slipping – in the paint department at Home Depot)
— shorten the barrel (the weight at the end of the barrel is harder to hold up) and lose the bipod
— take off the buttstock pad to shorten the buttstock and bring the weapon in closer
— put a mag in a SpecOps buttstock mag holder to balance out muzzle-heaviness
— add a vertical foregrip, etc., etc.
Any other suggestions to make heavier .308s more ergonomic? Regards, – OSOM
Dear Jim,
As any readers of mine know, I’m a tremendous fan of the AR-15 platform. However, it would not be my first choice of a survival weapon.
For survival over a long period, one should not be shooting large amounts of ammo. One should be in a secure position, preferably with neighbors for backup, and hunting occasional game, fighting occasional intruders. If things are bad enough you need a military type weapon, you’ve picked the wrong location in which to survive. (Assuming you’re not in a retreat community where such weapons are a good choice, with good logistical support, in addition to basic weapons.) However, it could be a very good choice for getting to a retreat.
I’ve tried the Beta C-Mag, and I concur with the US Army: Unacceptable Mean Time Between Failures (UMTBF). I’ve had it double feed, jam with both feed mechanisms at the bottom of the tower, and if you slam or drop it loaded on concrete, it will break. It’s adequate when pre-lubed, pre-loaded and ready to go for one time use before cleaning and re-lubing. That limits its utility. Add in the price tag, and there are better accessories to get.
For a long term survival rifle, a bolt action rifle chambered in 7.62x54R, .30-06, .308, or 8×57 Mauser is my recommendation. Easy to get ammo for, reliable, and if you have to reload with improvised propellant, bolt actions will fire it. (A self loader will not.)
I do recommend the AR-15 for bugout scenarios, based on the fact that parts are readily available, the ammo is the most common in the US, and doctrine for bugging out is to make holes in mobs–wounded or dead is the same, the military term being “Mission kill.” Someone not able to attack you is an effective kill for the duration of the engagement.
While I don’t think the 62 gr round was a wise change, I recently spoke to a Navy medic who is on a second tour in Iraq. His feedback was that any good hit with an M16 or M4 was almost always an effective hit. Most of the “I hit him three times center mass and he didn’t stop” stories are because soldiers didn’t hit. Stress can do funny things to one’s shooting. (Witness Peter Hathaway Capstick’s [“live rounds on the ground”] story of a hunter who cycled every round from the magazine [of a bolt action rifle] and ejected them, without pulling the trigger, and swore he’d hit the elephant four times.)
The military uses small caliber almost universally across the world, because militaries win wars through logistics and resupply–running out of ammo is always bad, so a larger volume of ammo is more militarily effective than a smaller volume of heavier ammo. A prepared individual in a retreat is only going to have what is on hand, and must make it count. One good rifle that will work out to 500 yards is the better choice. Obviously, funds permitting, you can do as I have–compromise and have both.:) – Michael Z. Williamson
Letter Re: Save Your Wine-in-a-Box Mylar Inserts
JWR,
In reference to MQB’s letter about box-wine inserts. While I have only had the misfortune of drinking box wine on several occasions (It is best described as a “wake up in jail” drunk) I do really like the uses mentioned. I would also like to add that using baking soda in place of Clorox [plain liquid hypochlorite bleach] for washing out the bags may work better, and impart less of a taste to any future contents. I have been using straight baking soda for cleaning out my hydration bladders (platypus brand) for several years and have found this to be superior to using bleach, soap, or just about anything else. For a little bit of extra cleansing action, hydrogen peroxide can be added and with a little bit of scrubbing will make things good as new.
I have also used the pony kegs (they are a 5L mini-keg) for storing water for trips and the like. They are made of aluminum and are quite durable. It takes some effort to get the top bung plug out, but you can find new bungs as well as kegs at many brew shops. Usually I add just a little nugget of dry ice as I’m sealing them up to give a little bit of positive pressure, I’ve even added quite a bit of dry ice and had lovely club soda, a real treat on hot desert days. Best of luck. – AVL
JWR Replies: Show extreme caution when putting dry ice in any sealed container. Use just a tiny bit, otherwise the result can be a dangerous explosion.