Odds ‘n Sods:

B.L. sent us this one: Radon Gas Causes 100 Times More Deaths than Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

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Some thought-provoking analysis from Peter Schiff: Another One Bites The Dust

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Eric found this one: Swiss still braced for nuclear war. Eric noted that there are now calls by the Social Democrat party to drop the shelter-building requirement. (These are the same socialist do-gooders that did away with the war reserve ammunition that had previously been kept in Swiss homes, in sealed cans.)

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WW flagged this unusually revealling news tory link: Shell CEO’s oil-centric view on energy, climate change

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The conclusions seem inescapable that in certain circles a tendency has arisen to fear people who fear government. Government, as the Father of Our Country put it so well, is ‘a dangerous servant and a fearful master’. People who understand history, especially the history of government, do well to fear it. For a people to express openly their fear of those of us who are afraid of tyranny is alarming. Fear of the state is in no sense subversive. It is, to the contrary, the healthiest political philosophy for a free people.” – The Late Col. Jeff Cooper, Cooper’s Commentaries, vol. 4, no. 16, December, 1996

Notes from JWR:

When I last checked, the spot price of silver was $16.75 per ounce, and gold was at $929.30. That’s an all-time high. There will be plenty of volatility and some very scary pull-backs, but the trend for the precious metals is still definitely upward. Meanwhile, the USD Index was at 75.56 and falling. The key number to watch for there is 72. Below that, watch out!

BTW, I’m not like those television cheerleader/analysts that have suddenly jumped on the precious metals bandwagon. After a dismal two decade bear cycle, I fairly accurately called the bottom of the silver market seven years ago. (For the record: I cited $4.25/oz. as the potential low point, but it actually bottomed (intraday) a few months later at $4.03.) I was touting silver back when nearly all of the mainstream market mavens were trashing it. But it has been enjoying a bull market ever since.

Just don’t ask me to call the top of this bull market. With the potential for massive government market manipulation of the relatively thin metals markets, that will be very hard to do. My advice is to sell your metals holdings gradually, and don’t try to catch the absolute peak. Don’t get greedy. Just slowly cash out as the metals prices continue to rise and immediately parlay the proceeds into other, less volatile tangibles. (See my previous commentary in SurvivalBlog for some suggestions.)

I’ll go out on a limb here and state that it would be foolish not to have cashed out of half of your precious metals by the time that gold reaches $1,550 per ounce. Once the price of gold approaches the magic milestone of €1,000 Euros per ounce, expect some blatantly Neanderthal market manipulation to push the metals prices down: They’ll announce government gold sales. They’ll change the COMEX rules. They’ll claim a scientific breakthrough in alchemy. They’ll do whatever they deem necessary to cap the price of gold and silver.

—

Today we present another article for Round 14 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 14 ends on January 31st, so e-mail us your entry soon! Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

The ‘Perfect’ Bug Out Vehicle, by Crazy Frenchman

Introduction.
Not all of us can quit our jobs and live year-round at a permanent retreat. Yet some of us may be able to afford a semi-permanent retreat (e.g. vacation home), at least partly stocked (a.k.a. main supplies), and located within reasonable ‘travel time’ to the city where we work.
As a catastrophic event would unfold, you would bug out ahead of the crowds. Otherwise you could begin by staying in your house, assess the situation, and never actually bug out. If the situation would deteriorate besides all hope, then bugging out would become a sound option.
As part of the concept of retreating you would need a vehicle to bug out. Assuming a retreat located less than half a gas tank away and fully stocked, then almost any 4×4 vehicle could do. Otherwise you need to think hard now, and select a bug out vehicle (BOV) as suggested next.

Primary Bug Out Vehicle.
A primary BOV is any form of transportation that will allow you to bug out and reach your destination/retreat while carrying your family, pets, and minimal ‘bonus’ supplies. Your bug out vehicle should be your daily driver so:
o You know how to handle it (size, breaking, passing, etc.).
o You keep it in tip top mechanical condition (reliable).
o You have the automotive repair manual for your vehicle’s make/model/year.
o You carry basic spare parts (oil, filters, spark plugs, fuel pump, serpentine belt, etc.).
o You carry winter gear (tire chains, shovel, etc.)
o You carry some off road gear (hi-lift Jack, tow chain, etc.)
In case of major crisis, roadways could quickly become jammed. People may run out of gas and abandon their vehicles in the middle of the road. Although you will likely travel on secondary roads, you might have to go around road blockades. Snow, rain, wind, and soft shoulders could compound the problem. The inability to drive off-road when needed could prove a critical failure to reach your retreat.
As part of overcoming this type of risk, you need a vehicle with powerful off-road capabilities (high ground clearance, four wheel drive, locking differentials, high/low gears, etc.), and plenty of engine power.

Secondary Bug Out Vehicle.
Even if it is a truck, your primary bug out vehicle may not offer enough storage to move your family and all your ‘bonus’ supplies at once. Likely you will need a support vehicle. Some kind of travel trailer (for instance) will provide enough storage when retreating, without the need to tow it on a daily basis (thus saving gas).
Please understand that your retreat should be at least partly stocked, and that the trailer would only contain ‘bonus’ and ‘extra’ supplies. I suggest:
o Enclosed cargo travel trailer.
o Tandem axles, 15″ tires or larger, electric brakes.
o High ground clearance, shortest possible cargo box (e.g. 14′ long).
o Around 2,000 pounds curb weight.
Load at most 3,000 pounds of equipment and supplies for a total weight of 5,000 pounds. Weigh the trailer both empty and ‘full’ so you know its real weight. Going off-road to avoid obstacles will require a vehicle capable of towing double that total weight, thus around 10,000 pounds., NOT just 5,000 pounds.
If your primary vehicle is less powerful, you could prefer a single axle trailer and load it at full capacity (e.g. 300 pounds. to 800 pounds. curb weight, 1600 pounds. of load). The advantages are better price and the need for a smaller tow vehicle (required to tow up to 5000 pounds. instead of up to 10,000 pounds.). Disadvantages are:
o Less carrying capacity.
o Trailer closer to its gross weight limit as compared to heavier trailer.
o Single axle and small size wheels (not the best for off-road).
o Trailer box rather low on the ground (bad for off-road).
o Long distance between hitch and axle (again, bad for off-road).
The best solution might be to purchase a single axle trailer (cheaper), and spend extra money to have it customized by switching from single to double axles with larger wheels and tires, electric brakes, and much higher ground clearance.
In any case, always purchase a primary BOV with a maximum towing capacity equal to twice the expected towed weight . Otherwise, off-road use will be either compromised or next to impossible.

Tertiary Bug Out Vehicle.
No primary BOV can be both fuel efficient in daily use and powerful enough when evacuating (towing a trailer, maybe driving off-road). The workaround is to combine a powerful vehicle and a two-wheeled motor vehicle for daily ‘summer’ driving. This nimble two-wheeled vehicle serves four purposes:
o Daily city driver in fair weather (e.g. at 40 to 60 plus miles per gallon, you save gas).
o Backup set of wheels while your truck is undergoing repairs (it happens).
o When retreating, low profile scout and reconnaissance vehicle .
o Once at your retreat, economical mean of transportation.
The scouting part is critical! Keep the scout vehicle a few miles ahead of your main party and he could quickly warn you (e.g. via radio) of any ‘obstacle’. Any 250cc (or up) motorcycle would do the job. Again, you need spare parts, repair manual, etc, for that third vehicle. Although electric hand warmers, windscreen, etc. would mitigate mild winter driving, for practical reasons do not use the scout vehicle (put it in the trailer) during extreme winter conditions.

Important Considerations.
Storing Backup Fuel.
In case of catastrophic event, gas stations will jack up their prices and/or will run out of gas. Consequently it is critical to store enough backup fuel to reach your retreat assuming the worst possible scenario (empty fuel tank, empty fuel stations, snow, at night, and some off-road driving). I suggest:
o Store backup fuel in 5-gallon cans.
o Store as much as possible (at least 80 to 100 gallons).
o Rotate at least once a year (fill up your gas tank with the old fuel).
o I use a funnel (cheap and easy) to fill up from the cans. It works great.
o As needed, use some kind of fuel stabilizer to refresh old fuel.
As the price of fuel goes up, storing makes sense. You do save money buying now and using later. When I started doing so, fuel cost $0.90 per gallon and a used 5-gallon metal jerry-can could be had for $5.00. The containers paid for themselves within a couple of years.

‘Bonus’ Supplies.
‘Bonus’ supplies are supplies not pre-positioned at your retreat because you use them daily, or because that would not be practical. A non-inclusive list could include: scout vehicle, backup fuel [JWR Adds: Buy a large underground fuel tank, if you can afford one, and conceal its filler neck and pump head!], animals (e.g. chickens, rabbits), bug out bags, all of your clothes, extra food, medical prescriptions and supplies, camping equipment and supplies, guns and ammo, all of your tools, kitchen utensils, official papers, books, games, computers, etc.)

Ditching The Trailer.
Your scout vehicle should allow you to avoid unwarranted ‘obstacles’, but in a worst case scenario you might have to ditch the trailer in order to go off-road and reach your location. If possible try to hide the trailer instead, with the option of salvaging it, and its content, at a later time.

Conclusion.
To simplify (feel free to disagree) bug out capability is best provided by three vehicles: a towing vehicle (daily winter driver), a travel trailer, and a two-wheeled motor vehicle (daily summer driver/scout). Also you want to store 80 gallons (or more) of fuel for emergencies and for bug out purposes [,and much more at your retreat.]

Letter Re: Property Taxes and Hyperinflation

Dear Mr. Rawles,
It’s been on my mind off-and-on since I read your novel “Patriots”, when the Grays sent in a property tax payment to avoid losing their retreat to tax delinquency. It’s always annoyed me that a landowner has to pay the government to keep land he has bought and paid for. That said, what would keep a local government, starved for cash in just such a situation as “The Crunch”, to raise the taxes on local properties until no-one could pay them? If a landowner pre-paid his taxes for, say, two years in advance, what would stop the powers that be from just saying that you didn’t pay enough because we’ve just doubled the taxes, and then taking your well-stocked and cared-for home? I suppose there’s nothing that could, and that most towns would not accept a two-year payment on property taxes anyway, but I wanted to put the idea out there. Thanks again for all you do! – R. in New Hampshire

JWR Replies: I had mentioned pre-paying taxes in the novel only because I had foreseen (and still foresee) a hyperinflationary situation where both the repudiation of the paper currency and collapse of government seemed imminent. If the currency would soon become worthless, it would be worth the effort, and it could certainly do no harm–assuming that the same amount of currency would only buy one of two meals worth of food. In the aftermath of a collapse, being able to show a receipt for pre-payment of taxes would at least demonstrate the good faith intention to pay the property tax.

In less severe circumstances where local governments can continue to operate in a hyperinflationary economy, it is impossible to rule out inflation indexing of property taxes. Depending on circumstances that cold result in delinquency judgments and property seizures. If this starts to happen too frequently, this might inspire local uprisings by a discontented citizenry. The recent absurdities in Zimbabwe illustrates one potential outcome. (In Zimbabwe, Mugabe’s government just started issuing a $10 Million Dollar bill, which as of this month might buy you a hamburger and an Africola. But if you wait a couple of weeks the same purchase might require $20 Million Zimbabwean dollars.)

During a hyperinflation the crucial factor will be whether or not you have cash income–preferably inflation indexed–with which you can pay your taxes. If you lose your job or on a fixed income (such as a pension), there may very well come a day when you cannot afford to buy food, much less pay your taxes.

Odds ‘n Sods:

I found this “must read” piece by economist Jim Willie, posted over at Gold-Eagle: Gold & Math On A Napkin

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Eric mentioned a great article on the looming derivatives and hedge fund implosion in The Boston Globe: The black box economy. One tidbit from the article: “Despite the anxiety, nobody is stockpiling canned goods just yet.” Oh, yeah? Speak for yourself. Meanwhile, we also read: Crisis Grips European Hedge Funds. This is just the beginning folks. I’ve warned you before about hedge funds suspending redemptions, and hedge fund collapses. If you have any money in hedge funds, get it out, post haste. I am very concerned that the multi-trillion dollar derivatives bubble is about to pop. If and when it does, it will wipe out nearly all of the hedge funds–even those that have been managed quite conservatively.

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RBS suggested this “Gumballs” YouTube clip from a lecture on immigration demographics.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Individuality is the aim of political liberty. By leaving to the citizen as much freedom of action and of being as comports with order and the rights of others, the institutions render him truly a free man. He is left to pursue his means of happiness in his own manner.” – James Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851) The American Democrat, 1838

Note from JWR:

If you ever post to any of the Internet forums that discuss survival or preparedness topics, then please mention SurvivalBlog.com when you do. Thanks!

Letter Re: Advice for a Canadian with a “Just One Gun” Budget

Hello SurvivalBlog:
I am a Canadian 21 year-old living in rural Nova Scotia looking at purchasing my first gun. I will only have enough money for one in the near future (with ammo stockpiles).
I’ve just got my license (we need ’em in Canada, unfortunately), and have $1,000 to spend [on the gun and ammunition, combined]. My budget is extremely limited, but I think that a gun is the most important priority for survival situations. We have a self-sufficient garden, clean water, well, fuel, wood-stoves, and have potato-like Jerusalem Artichokes growing wild all around us.
I am looking at a Marlin .30-30. Good for hunting. Good for self defense. Good for bug out.
Do you have a better recommendation? Thanks, – Matthew in Nova Scotia

JWR Replies: Instead of the Marlin .30-30, I would recommend a replica .303 Lee-Enfield “Jungle Carbine” (replica of the Number 5, Mark I) or an Ishapore 2A1 carbine (The latter is a 1960s Indian arsenal final evolution of the Enfield, in 7.62mm NATO)..Your choice of caliber should be based on whichever is more popular in your corner of Canada.

Lee-Enfield bolt actions are much faster to reload than a tubular-magazine lever action, either via stripper clips or loaded spare magazines. Both .303 and 7.62mm NATO are ballistically superior to .30-30, and surplus ammo for these calibers bought in bulk is much less expensive than commercial .30-30 soft nose ammunition.

One qualifying note on “Jungle Carbines”: From what I have read, less than 20% of the #5 Enfields on the market are genuine originals that were made during WWII with the lightened receivers. Those are real collectibles that fetch $600+. Most of the so-called “Enfield Jungle Carbines” are actually just commercially-rebuilt earlier model Enfields, on standard receivers. (Typically a No. 1 Mk III with a bobbed barrel, shortened wood, and a replica #5 flash hider and #5 buttpad installed. ) The notorious Sam Cummings (of Interarms) and other importers reworked tens of thousands of these in the 1960s and 1970s.) They now run $250 to $375 at US gun shows, which is not considerably more than a standard Enfield. I would suspect they could be found at similar prices in Canada.

From a practical shooting standpoint, the replica #5s are actually preferable to the scarce original #5s, which had a problem with “wandering zero”. You could zero in one of these, only to have the zero change while shooting it. According to SurvivalBlog reader B.A.G., this problem was traced to the lightening cuts that were made in the #5 receiver. Short of replacing the lightened receiver, there is no way to fix it. The replicas do not have lightened receivers, so this is not an issue. Again, they will never have the same collector value as an original, but they are more accurate shooters.

I have owned two of these replica #5s, and they both had decent accuracy (2″ groups at 100 yards), with no symptoms of wandering zero. Their recoil is hefty, but quite bearable with a slip-over recoil pad.

OBTW, most of the Ishapore 2A1 carbines that you see are equipped the same US-made fake #5 flash hider. There were umpteen thousand of those flash hiders made.

If you have your heart set on a lever action, then consider finding a used Browning BLR (a box magazine-fed lever gun) chambered in .308 (or perhaps .30-06 if bears and moose are plentiful in your area) and at least a half dozen spare magazines. If possible, get the takedown variant, since these can be stowed in a backpack or suitcase. The BLR is much faster to reload than traditional tubular magazine lever action rifles.

Letter Re: I Told You So

Jim:
My pessimistic mentor in preparedness frequently says: “I hate being so d*mn right all the time!”
I can’t help but wonder if you share the sentiment. I’m beginning to do so!
The more I read the current news about market volatility, Peak Oil, and CCD the more I am reminded of the pieces I wrote and you published on SurvivalBlog months ago! The full texts are still available in your archives and the advice is still valid!
For new readers and to refresh the memory of others here are a few quotes pulled out of the late in 2006 and early 2007 pieces.

From November 3, 2006: How Long Until You Starve?
“ The lowly honey bee is the most prolific and productive pollinator of crops. It is actually threatened with extinction by a new wave of parasites and bee diseases. In the same way that “avian flu” endangers the global bird population (and to a lesser extent humans) bee diseases have the potential to destroy that essential link in the production of food for human consumption.“
“ Even changes in the market price of fuel affect the profitability of farming. If a farmer earns $1,000 per ton of food produced, but it will cost hundreds more in fuel costs next season, why would he plant the next crop?”
“ Some very intelligent people warn of an economic collapse on the scale of the Great Depression or worse. Hyper inflation is a reality in third world nations. It has happened in civilized and developed Europe several times in the last century as well. What if your paycheck loses 90% of its buying power in a month’s time? What if the markets lose faith in the imaginary value of currency? Such things have happened repeatedly in the past. If the store shelves are full but a can of soup costs $100, how long can you eat? How long until rioting empties the stores and stops distribution?”
What can you do?
#1 Store a food and water reserve to see you through the initial crisis.
A year’s supply for your family is not an unreasonable amount. FIVE years of the shelf stable basics for your family would not be too much.
#2 Open pollinated “heirloom” seeds and the ability to raise your own crops (at least “gardening”) are part of the answer. Buy your seeds now, practice planting, harvesting, storing the food, AND saving your own seeds to plant for the next season.
#3 Don’t overlook unconventional sources of food. With a little research you should be able to recognize wild forage plants and prepare them for your table.
#4 If keeping domestic livestock or poultry is an option that you would like to explore, I highly recommend Countryside and Small Stock Journal.
#5 If keeping small stock isn’t practical you may resort to foraging for wild game or fishing.

From April 2, 2007 Top Ten Suggestions for Stocking Up:
“… the time to stock up is before a shortage occurs…we are living at the tail end of a historic period of plenty.”
“” Whether you feel that the price hikes we are seeing are due to Peak Oil, developing nations gobbling up natural resources, or active war zones sucking in all available oil and ammunition, you can not deny that prices (especially for fuel and metals) have increased significantly over the past few years. … it will become far worse.
“ When you factor in the very real risks of an economic crisis (derivatives, real estate, etc), the loss of honeybees from the pollination cycle, … you can see the threat of significant price increases for goods with a post-SHTF value.”
So my top ten recommended specific purchases are below.
1. Food Grains – rice, oatmeal, beans, wheat, corn – most of us consume far more than we produce. Food grains are cheap especially if bought in bulk and when properly stored can last for years. Regardless of the crisis, food will be needed. It just makes sense to keep several months of food on hand especially in light of the potential shortages that could result from the die off of pollinators….
2. Matches –
3. If you can still find reasonably priced ammunition … buy it.
4. Effective defense weapons – (note on 1-25-08- that the elections are less than a year away!)
5. High Capacity magazines – (note on 1-25-08 that the elections are closer every day!)
6. Over the Counter Medicines –
7. Hygiene products –
8. Oils of every kind –
9. Salt –
10. Honey – the bees are dying.

– Mr. Yankee

Letter Re: Deciphering HK Magazine Date Codes

Mr. Rawles,
I’m confused about the two-letter date codes that are stamped on many [Heckler und Koch] HK [firearms] magazines. How does the date code system work? I’m not asking you this because I’m a collector that’s into arcana or minutiae. It is because I live in [New York,] a state that restricts civilian ownership of mags that were made after September of 1994.

By the way, I’ve also got some 40 round [aluminum] alloy HK93 magazines with no markings whatsoever on the mag body, but they do have followers with “78” mold marks. What is the story on those magazines? Are they HK factory made? (The guy that sold them to me said that they were HK-made for some secret contract before 1980. Was he BSing me?) Thanks, – Perry Noid

JWR Replies: First, for the sake of SurvivalBlog’s overseas readers, let me present a bit of clarification on magazine legalities: The Federal “high capacity” (11+ round) magazine ban was in effect on the US and possessions only from September of 1994 to September of 2004, when it thankfully became null and void because of a 10 year “sunset” clause. But New York has its own state law, which effectively extended the Federal ban for New York residents. Hence, they are not allowed to possess any 11+ round magzine made after 9/1994. A similar situation exists in California, where any civilian caught with a 11+ round magazine that they did not own on Dec. 31, 1999 could be charged with a felony. (My California pioneer ancestors are undoubtedly rolling in their graves.)

According to the knowledgeable folks at the HKPRO Board, the following is true for HK magazines, but not for receivers, frames, or pistol slides:

IR =1993
IE=1994
IS=1995
IK=1996
IO=1997
ID=1998
II=1999
OR=2000
NP=2001
AC=2002 (assumption)
AD=2003 (assumption)
AE=2004 (assumption)
AF=2005 (assumption)
AG=2006 (assumption)
AH=2007 (assumption)
AI=2008 (assumption)

The date coding of HK pistol slides has always been much more straightforward: A=0 B=1 C=2 D=3 E=4 F=5 G=6 H=7 I=8 K=9. (So a slide marked “KD” was made in 1993.)

Apparently, starting in 2002, HK switched to harmonizing the slide, frame, and magazine date coding systems, but as yet this has not been confirmed by officials at HK or HK-USA.

Those 40 round alloy HK93 magazines with no date stamps that you asked about were made for the Anastasio Somoza Debayle government of Nicaragua (pre-Sandinista.) These were for a “semi-sterile” contract. No company markings were used because the Somoza government was in disfavor internationally at the time. The Somoza government fell to the Sandinista revolutionaries in 1979–before a large number of those HK93 magazines could be delivered, so they were eventually diverted to the civilian market.

Letter Re: Gauging Interest in Dakota Alert MURS Radios

Hi Jim,
I am looking to gauge interest from your readers for the Dakota Alert MURS Base and Handheld radios. If there is enough interest in a
special group purchase, I can offer the M538-BS MURS base station for $69 (plus shipping) and the M538-HT MURS hand held for $74 (plus shipping). Interested readers can e-mail me if they would like to be part of this group buy. (see the MURS Radio web site.) Thanks! – Rob at Affordable Shortwaves

Odds ‘n Sods:

Wired News is reporting that an Illinois startup is claiming they can make ethanol from most any organic material for around $1 per gallon. Coskata, backed by General Motors and several other investors, uses a process that is bacteria based instead of some of the other available methods. The bacteria processes organic material that is fed into the reactor and secretes ethanol as a waste product. A hat tip to Eric for sending us this link.

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Pete found us this one: Gold production halted amid South African energy crisis

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Ten-finger Fingerprint Scan To Enter U.S.A.

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Cody Lundin has a new 512-page survival manual out, titled “When All H*ll Breaks Loose: Stuff You Need to Know When Disaster Strikes”. He’s an interesting character and the book is very useful. Safecastle is giving away the book (normally $19.95 ) to new paid members in their crisis preparedness Buyers Club. (“Safecastle Royal”.) Those who are already members can either purchase the book at 20% off or get it free with a qualifying $150 purchase in the Safecastle online store.

Four Letters Re: A Honeybee CCD Disaster Soon?–Bee Prepared!

James,
Here is a link to a somewhat less pessimistic article on CCD, the current state of affairs with bees, and a likely possible cause. I agree that the consequences of a loss of Apis mellifera would be a severe blow, but I think the reality is not (yet?) quite so dire as a recently linked article predicted.
Best Regards, – MP

 

Jim;
Your comments miss the fact that solitary bees, such as the Orchard Mason bee, are roughly 10 times more effective [per capita] as pollinators than honeybees, and are plentiful in most locales. Bumblebees ain’t bad at it, either. I’ve relied on these species for years, in an environment where there are very few wild honeybees.
Of course, this doesn’t change the fact that commercial agriculture would be largely wiped out without honeybees, but at least it should save you and me from having to dress up in bee costumes and go flitting from flower to flower. – Charley S.

 

Sir:
I have just recently found your site and I am starting to read you regularly. I find that I agree with 99.99% of what you have to say so far. I have seen our own small bee hive wiped out in the last few years, and we decided to buy and work with Mason Bees. There is no honey production but they (the mason bees) are pollinating little machines. It might be something for your readers to look into – fyreman

Jim,
You wrote: “Food storage. Increase the depth of your family’s food storage program. Heretofore, I had recommended a two year supply. I am now recommending a four year supply.”

Now that you are recommending four years of storage, would you please be more specific in what you recommend? Are you referring to a freeze dried, wheats, beans and rice, dehydrated, etc. type storage approach? I’m assuming a long term approach is the only way to go when trying to store for four years. Thanks, – Russ in Georgia

JWR Replies: For long term storage foods, I generally recommend storing bulk wheat, rice, and beans in 5 or 6 gallon food grade buckets with oxygen absorbing packets.

Given the likelihood of honey shortages for the foreseeable future, I also recommend getting a 10 year supply of honey. Because powdered milk tends to go rancid, I recommend that you buy commercially-packed nonfat dry milk in #10 (one gallon) nitrogen-packed steel cans. (Available from Ready Made Resources) Oils and fats are best stored in the form of canned butter (available from Best Prices Storable Foods) and frozen olive oil. (The plastic bottles work fine, but don’t try to freeze glass bottles of oil!)

For details on both short term and long term food storage, I recommend Alan T. Hagan’s Food Storage FAQ, as well as my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course.

In addition to long term storage food, you might also want some conveniently packaged “Get Out of Dodge” type foods, such as retort-packaged MREs. For information on MRE storage, see the MRE Information Page.