Odds ‘n Sods:

Tom W. at CometGold.com sent this one, from Canada.com: “Hedge Funds Overleveraged, Sprott warns”

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Reader CM writes: “A fascinating look at how Mr. Bernanke is radically increasing the money supply, and lying about it..The link is to a DailyKos diary but don’t let that
deter you – the charts and information that it contains are worth the look.”

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Northern Tool & Equipment (one of our affiliate advertisers) is offering sitewide Free Gift Cards with purchases over $100. This limited time promotion started Monday, November 27th and goes through Monday, December 4th. You will need to enter keycode 94660 in order to receive their free gift card.

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In case you missed it back in September, The War on Guns blog featured an interesting interview with novelist Matt Bracken. (The author of Enemies Foreign and Domestic, and Domestic Enemies.)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"[W]hen you see that in order to produce, you need to obtain permission from men who produce nothing- when you see that money is flowing to those who deal, not in goods, but in favors- when you see that men get richer by graft and by pull than by work, and your laws don’t protect you against them, but protect them against you- when you see corruption being rewarded and honesty becoming a self-sacrifice- you may know that your society is doomed." – Ayn Rand, Atlas Shrugged, 1957




Notes From JWR:

The cold spell here in the vicinity of the Rawles Ranch is continuing. Last night’s low was -11 degrees Fahrenheit. (Or, as they call it here in The Un-named Western State: “Shirtsleeves Weather.”)

My sincere thanks to the less than 1/2 of 1% of SurvivalBlog readers that have signed up for 10 Cent Challenge subscriptions. You 63 people know who you are. Subscriptions are entirely voluntary, and gratefully accepted.



Letter Re: Tactical Vests as Wearable Mini Bug Out Bags

Hi Jim,
I found another vest that some of your readers might be interested in if they like to “load up” like I do, but without having to use a medium ruck sized back pack. It’s made by Eagle Industries out of St. Louis and it’s called the Eagle Hunter’s Vest (product code HV-CH). It’s one-size-fits-all and its carrying capacity can be increased by adding a “butt pack” type pack also sold by Eagle that straps to the upper back of the vest. I have used a number of their products over the years while deployed [overseas] with the Army and have found the quality of material and workmanship to be excellent.
While deployed this time, I get to your site almost every day. I’ve been recommending it to those I work with. It’s definitely worth the 10 Cent Challenge. Take care, – Z in Iraq



Three Letters Re: Build Your Fallout Shelter From Barter Goods, by Mr. Yankee

Hi Jim.
Just felt the need to re-emphasize the point you made with regard to Mr. Yankee’s ideas about an improvised fallout shelter.

First, I applaud his view that one should not count on being able to pull together an adequate expedient shelter when the need arises. As simple in theory as it seems, in practice, few would end up with a shelter they would want to rely on to save the lives of their loved ones.

Second, as far as the point you made, Jim, it is indeed very important to over-engineer any sort of structure that will be bearing the loads necessary for a fallout shelter.

I need to point out that I want to do everything in my power to encourage folks to buy or build their own shelters, whether it is from us or not. Why? I feel it’s very possible that the number of adequate shelters in the USA will go a long way toward defining our future viability. So I always hesitate to discourage folks in any way when they talk about what they feel are good, easy shelter ideas … but really are simply short cuts that as you pointed out could end up killing them.

To anyone thinking about this, if you’re going to build your own fallout shelter, then be darn sure it is built to last for decades under the most stressful conditions you can imagine. (Better yet, under conditions a structural engineer can imagine.) If it turns out you need to spend any time at all in your shelter, you sure don’t want to be thinking about how you cut some corners to save a few bucks, or that you did just enough to probably hold up when you have to start topping off the loads.

A “for instance”: There are a lot of arm-chair, Internet shelter designers who like to propose grand designs for underground shelters made of storage containers. Bad idea! They may look great as you are backfilling and burying them, but they are not built to withstand subterranean forces. They will catastrophically fail at some point–probably sooner than later. Believe me, if they would work, there would be plenty of us selling them as bargain-basement solutions.

As I said, I want to encourage folks to do the best they can to provide a decent shelter for their loved ones. It’s important, and when you get it done well, it’s peace of mind that you can’t otherwise buy or manufacture. If you’re going to do it at all, do it very, very well.

Besides the need for Mr. Yankee to think seriously about shoring up his floor overhead and perhaps his walls, I’d ask him to try not to get too clever with what it is that will serve as his shielding mass. Salt will work, as will any material (including air), but the key is how much will get the job done? I suspect that one would need a whole lot of salt to provide the needed mass.

A quick rule of thumb many can benefit from when looking at how well to shield their survival space: Shielding that reduces gamma ray intensity by 50% includes .4 inch of lead, 2.4 inches of concrete, 3.6 inches of packed dirt or 500 ft of air. One should aim for 10 times the halving protection using these guidelines when constructing your fallout shelter … such as 36 inches of earth or 24 inches of concrete or 4 inches of lead (not practical) or say, 12 inches of concrete and 18 inches of earth. This is a minimal level of protection, I feel. Of course, overkill in shielding is great as long as the supporting structure is built to withstand it. – Vic at Safecastle

 

Hi Jim,
I applaud Mr. Yankee for starting to think about constructing a Fallout Shelter. Over the past few months, I have been giving some consideration to the very same thing. But, after researching various “expedient” shelters such as the one described by Mr. Yankee (available in FEMA publications), I came to the conclusion that these are inferior, last minute, “make do” constructs. Given the time available to plan, it just makes sense to do the job properly.
Time and Space
I am constantly amused at how little time people think that they will be spending in a fallout shelter. Somehow, they seem to equate a nuclear incident with that of a passing thunder storm/tornado. The problem is that while a storm does its thing and moves on (or dies out), a nuclear event has two components: The Blast and the Fallout. What most folks do not realize is that it’s the Fallout that is “the gift which keeps on giving” (gamma radiation). And, in most cases, people will need to create Fallout Shelters to protect and shield themselves from the gamma radiation contained in the Fallout. Those who live in target rich areas should consider building a Blast Shelter.
Figuring on a minimum of two weeks (but more likely a month) in the shelter to allow the radiation to taper off, leads one to consider not only providing for clean Air, Food, Water, Clothing, Beds; but also Sanitation, Exercise, Entertainment. Now, add an average family of four people into the equation and things become more interesting.
I am reminded of the old gag question: “How many college students can you fit into a telephone booth?”
A 12’x 8’ (and what height?) basement room is not going to be enough physical space to handle the family and all the other things they will need for the duration in the shelter. – Douglas in CT

 

Dear Jim,
I believe Mr Yankee is unclear on his terminology. Concrete or other mass won’t stop fallout. Air filters stop fallout, which is radionuclide particles. These generally precipitate out in a few hours/few days. A good soaking of the surrounding ground with soap solution will wash them into the soil and lessen the danger of inhalation/contact (from stirring up the dust). The reason nuclear residue from weapons is dangerous is because of its high energy. At the same time, that high level of radiation means it has a short half life. There are long term risks of cancer and such, but the immediate risk is quite controllable. An expedient method is to tape windows shut and use dryer lint between screens as air filters, drawing up from under a cover. A sprinkler over the intake to create a water curtain will improve effectiveness. Obviously, HEPA filters are preferred, if available.
Direct radiation (Which is what I believe he means by “fallout”) is stopped by concrete, compacted Earth or other dense materials such as lead. Most modern military warheads are efficient enough that exposure to lethal levels of radiation means one is already within the radius of overpressure or thermal blast. Obviously, improvised devices are not so clean, and there is danger near the edges of an explosion where one can be exposed to dangerous levels. He is correct that food cans won’t stop such radiation. On the other hand, metals will. Lead is the classic choice, but gold, silver, copper (you might see where that is going) and even steel are of some effect, as is the mass of the house and any outside walls–radiation travels in straight lines, and if the blast is directly overhead, you won’t feel a thing. Copper plates overhead, with a layer of brick or such, plus the outside walls of the house, a berm, trees, nearby terrain features or intervening buildings will all absorb some of the radiation front.
I would recommend against storing materials one plans to use so they can double as shielding. The shielding can absorb neutrons and re-emit them as ionizing radiation. This is very unhealthy. The copper, lead or steel used as such needs to be avoided after the fact, especially on the blast side. It would be a decent gesture not to trade such materials off to the unsuspecting to get sick and die from.
I agree on over-engineering and then covering with concrete or compacted Earth. Something mentioned here before that is quite affordable is a used CONEX box, which is designed to take high weight on the edges and corners. A fairly simple bracing atop it (Any mechanical engineer or even a good construction contractor should be able to calculate what’s needed) will support more than enough mass to act as shielding. This can be planted outside the basement with a drainage bed of gravel underneath, accessible from inside, and reducing the risk of the house collapsing atop the shelter. – Michael Z. Williamson



Odds ‘n Sods:

Are you searching for retreat locales? There is a great site that I often mention to my consulting clients for surveying the extent and types of agriculture in various regions. It is available from Purdue University’s horticulture department.

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I was doing a web search and I found this interesting video on British SAS operations, available for free download. It shows the planning and execution of a 28 day Observation Post (OP) mission. I was surprised to see how much detail they included about their weapons and field gear (“kit”), organization, and tactics. There are definitely some useful tidbits–particularly about tactical field discipline and how they pack their Bergen rucksacks–that preppers will find useful.

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Tom W. at CometGold.com suggested watching this “train wreck, in slow motion.” – The US Dollar Index (USDX) continues to tumble.





Note From JWR:

Wintery weather has come to the Rawles Ranch. The low this morning was 2 degrees Fahrenheit. I love splitting wood at this time of year. There is nothing quite like splitting wood on a crisp morning when the temperature is under 10 degrees. When it is frozen solid, the wood practically explodes when the splitting maul hits it. And for the record, my favorite woods for firewood are oak, tamarack, and red fir.



Letter Re: Advice on Cash and Weapons While Traveling Overseas

Mr Rawles:
My first family vacation is coming up and we’ll be in New Zealand for three weeks. I’ll be away from my food, guns, ammunition, and assorted survival stash. Add to that that I can’t take more than $10,000 in cash out of the country and can’t take any weapons with me. So, what do you take with you on such a trip? Gold is too heavy. Any ideas on what to bring that won’t weigh me down. Thanks, – S.

JWR Replies: Assuming that your main purposes in carrying cash and/or specie would be 1.) to secure passage back to the U.S. in the event of an international crisis, or 2.) to provide for sustenance in NZ while you wait for a crisis in the U.S. to normalize, then depending on your circumstances I’d recommend that you and your wife each carry a money belt containing (up to but not to exceed): Five circulated gold British Sovereigns (or, if you can’t find Sovereigns, then get 1 ounce gold Australian Kookaburras) 3000 Euros in cash, $2,000 NZD (cash and/or traveller’s checks), and $1,000 USD cash. That would keep the USD value for each of your belts under the $10,000 USD. If you are concerned about customs or immigration officials considering this a “constructive” (additive) violation, then you might carry 1/2 of the amounts mentioned–making the total your whole family will carry under $10,000. (But it is still wise to carry it divided in two separate money belts.) BTW, Euros have been minted in denominations as large as E500, making them quite convenient to carry in a money belt. (But these E500 notes are hard to find. You might have to contact several currency dealers.) Also BTW, Canadian dollars have also been minted in C$500 notes. Those haven’t been printed in decades, and you’ll have to pay a premium for them.

Once you arrive in New Zealand, leave your money belts in your hotel’s vault, or if they refuse to take responsibility for them, then with a local bank in a deposit box. (Regardless, do so with a signed and countersigned inventory. Carry a separate photocopy of that inventory with you.)

Street crime is not a major issue in New Zealand
, aside for a few neighborhoods in Auckland. But if you have concerns, for self protection while there I’d recommend that you immediately buy a couple of stout Maori tokotoko walking sticks. These are quite nicely carved and will make great keepsakes. (See the previous SurvivalBlog posts on walking sticks for self defense.) OBTW, if you pass though Dunedin (on the Otago Peninsula) and you have a big budget then you might consider investing in a custom damascus Bowie knife made by Richard van Dijk. He does fine work, and his knives are sure to appreciate in value. Have a safe trip!



Letter Re: Solar Charged Walkway Lights –An Option for Battery Charging

Mr. Rawles,
In response to what you wrote in the Blog on Friday, November 24th:
“The system does has some utility. However, except for people that have an alternative power power system (quite uncommon around Washington, D.C.), in a long term TEOTWAWKI, stations will gradually drop off the air one by one because most folks will not be able to recharge their batteries. (Just another reason why every family should have at least a small photovoltaic (PV) power system.) Contact the folks at Ready Made Resources for details on setting up such a system.

I read something a while back on a board that I frequent and thought it was a very useful use of materials at hand, and things having a second purpose. I’m sure not all sidewalk lights use AA batteries but if I buy any I will make sure mine our just for the utility it provides.

Kev started a thread by writing: “Here is a tip on how to recharge AA batteries after SHTF. First you will need a couple of those solar powered sidewalk lights, the kind that are sold at wal-mart like the one below. If you have not taken one of these sidewalk lights apart, all it is is a solar charger and a couple of AA batteries. Leave these out in full sun, take the batteries out over night so they do not get drained, then put the batteries back in the next day, after a day or two of charging they should be good to go. At the very least a small radio or AA flashlight can be used. These lights can also be placed in the bathrooms at night instead of using kerosene lanterns (if the power is off.)”

This is a link to the whole thread. It ends with a review I did for a solar charger.

The Lord bless you and yours, I really enjoy your blog, i look forward to reading it every day. – C.K.



Odds ‘n Sods:

I was doing some web searches on EMP and I stumbled into this site that describes how to protect radios and other electronics with do-it-yourself Faraday cages.

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The documentary video “In Hiding” is about the more than one million Internally Displaced Persons (IDPs) in Burma. Some of them–mainly Karen, Karenni, and Shan triibesmen–are being systematically hunted down by their own government. It is a “must see” video, available for free download. It was produced by FreeBurmaRangers.org. Regardless of your politics, there are some survival lessons that can be learned from this video

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A High-Protein Whole Grain? The Story of American Wild “Rice”

 



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"This nation…has no right to expect that it always will have wise and humane rulers, sincerely attached to the principles of the Constitution…[If] the calamities of war befall us, the dangers to human liberty are frightful to contemplate." – U.S. Supreme Court, Ex Parte Milligan decision, 1866



Notes From JWR:

Given the lead time for “print on demand” at XLibris, the next two days will probably be your last chance to order a few copies of the new edition of my novel “Patriots: Surviving The Coming Collapse” in time to present them as Christmas gifts. The cover price is $22.99. You can order them at 15% discount ($19.54 + postage) by ordering directly from XLibris.

Starting January 10, 2007, I will be selling autographed copies for $18.99 + $3.01 postage. ($22 each, postage paid, or $21 each if you order 2 or more, or $20 each if you order 3 or more.) Because of upcoming travel plans, I cannot fill any orders directly until January. If you need a copy in hand before late January, then please order directly from the publisher: XLibris.

Today we present yet another article for Round 7 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $1,600.) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Since there have been so many great entries in this round of the contest, I will also be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. If you want a chance to win Round 7, start writing and e-mail us your article. Round 7 will end on November 30th. Remember that the articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



Build Your Fallout Shelter From Barter Goods, by Mr. Yankee

I am just paranoid enough in this uncertain world to think that I’d be better off with a fallout shelter than not. Oh sure, you can throw together an expedient shelter in a few hours, but I think I’d be farther ahead adding some mass to the ceiling and walls of a basement room. Here’s how I plan to do it and I think the plan will work for anyone with a similar situation.

My basement is of poured concrete with no interior walls. My shelter will be created by converting the most earth shielded quarter of the basement into a shielded room. For ease of construction with a minimum of fit I’m making the shelter 8×12 so that I can use standard 4×8 foots sheets of plywood and 8 foot 2x4s. The walls are easy enough – just begin by sectioning off the designated area with two interior walls. Add shelves to the inside and outside of them so that whatever is on the shelves on both sides of the wall add mass. Jugs of water and canned food on one side and stacked ammo and other gear on the inside would all slow down any errant particles. This wouldn’t be as efficiently as 6 feet of concrete, but as with all things preparedness related – work with what you’ve got and dual use is the key. The exterior walls are shielded by earth and thus should be fine, but I’m leaning toward building shelving or cabinets against at least one exterior wall anyway. That leaves just the ceiling.
By screwing 3?4-inch plywood directly onto the bottom of the existing floor joists, I create 10 inches of storage space above the plywood and between the 2×10 joists. I can fill this space with material to add fallout protection. Traditionally this would be done with poured concrete. That sort of added weight will require additional support. That’s where the shelving and interior walls come in. By running 2x4s under the existing first floor joists so that each joist rests on six 2x4s (two feet apart) and the 2x4s are in turn are supported on each end by the top of the interior walls/shelving units that would support quite a bit of weight. Now what should I add to the newly created ceiling storage space?
I ruled out the poured concrete as a waste of space almost immediately. Initially I considered #10 cans of dehydrated food. But that would not be a dense enough material to stop a significant amount of fall out. I considered ammunition, but even though lead is an excellent shielding material I believe that would be prohibitively expensive. It would take a LOT of ammo to fill a 10×12 surface even six inches deep. That brings me to my latest idea prompted by a posting on Survivalblog regarding barter goods. SF in Hawaii wrote that:

“Salt is (1) very cheap now (2) can be sold in small packages at market (3) virtually impossible to obtain in TEOTWAWKI if you are away from the ocean (4) required for life. Add in iodized salt and doubly so. Remember the Goiter belts? (5) Divisible as it is a powder (6) recognizable by taste (7) virtually indestructible.” And “A $100 investment in salt now could easily be worth a fortune in another time and place.”

I have noted the importance of salt for home canning, meat preservation, and hide tanning in a post-electric world, and have one pound boxes of iodized salt taking up space in my basement already. Now factor in that for our water softener I have salt delivered to my door at fifteen cents per pound in 40 lb bags (also already stacked up and taking up space in my basement!). There’s 250 lbs of salt already on hand and taking up storage space that could be freed up. I think the course is clear. My shelter ceiling will be filled with salt. It is cheap, easy to obtain, easily dividable into marketable sizes, needed for life, and when sealed in the plastic bags it is delivered in and stored in what is probably the driest place in my home – ought to store forever.

JWR Adds: Be sure to over-engineer the bracing required when you add weight to a basement ceiling. A “dead load” can become a killing load if you under-engineer it. When designing, think in terms of both the blast wave from nuclear detonations and the effects of earthquake. If you aren’t confident that your design is like a proverbial “Brick Schumer House”, then talk to a structural engineer before you proceed. Better safe than sorry!

 



Announcing: Huckleberry Haven Retreat Properties Subdivision

I want to tell you about an opportunity to get your entire family, extended family, or ‘group’ squared-away with some strategic land in north Idaho. A good friend of mine is selling a 20 acre piece of land which has been legally subdivided into four 5-acre parcels in rural Bonner County, north Idaho. One parcel has an existing developed homestead already in place. The most unique thing about this land is that it is both remote and accessible. Normally remote land such as this is accessible only from a half-hour or more drive on bad/seasonal roads once you leave the highway. From this property you can see for miles over a nearby valley and across the valley to mountains peaks. In the whole view there is not a visible road, house, building, phone pole, nada — blessed privacy! Only at night can you view the light of a single home far in the distance. Yet you’re less than five minutes drive from a major US highway — very unique!
One five acre parcel, the homestead acreage, includes: a very unique, Joel Skousen-designed, underground NBC shelter; a comfortable 1,800 s.f. three bedroom house (southern exposure) with two bathrooms, master suite with walk-in closet, excellent kitchen with lovely views of the valley, and three independent heat sources. It also includes a 1,440 s.f. metal-sided barn that includes a 800 s.f. heated shop; a cozy 300 s.f. cabin with satellite Internet connection; chicken coop; hog pen; raised bed gardens with excellent soil; 180 degree shooting range/gravel pit; propane generator with 1000 gallon underground storage tank; large storage shed. Well and septic are in. Grid power is available and in use. Elevation is approximately 2,500 feet.
You can keep all 20 acres as a buffer, or sell one or more of the 5 acre pieces to like-minded family or friends.
The three ‘back parcels’ are accessed from a well-engineered private road which services only this subdivision. Each back parcel has its own nicely-built gravel driveway which connects to this private road. Each back parcel also has a building site cleared w/ lovely, strategic views.
Remainder of each parcel is heavily treed with cedar, birch, white pine, red fir, et cetera. (Gorgeous Fall colors!) There are wild berries, too (Both blackberries and wild huckleberries.) Abundant wildlife includes both whitetail and occasional mule deer. Occasional visitors include: elk, moose, and bear. For some odd reason the owners have never seen a skunk, nor raccoon here — a blessing.
The homestead parcel and two of the back parcels include significant frontage on a seasonal creek. There are year-round springs in some places.
FYI, there was a new ‘comprehensive plan’ enacted in Bonner County, which will preclude the future availability of additional 5 acre parcels in this area. Therefore these 5 acre parcels should be greatly desired (valued) in the future.
This is a four-season climate. The Sunset Western Garden book lists this as a Zone 2 area. The growing season is June 1 to September 1.
Similar 5-acre parcels in the county are currently listed in this county from $99,000 to $350,000 each! The seller is interested in finding a single buyer for the entire subdivision — including the three 5-acre parcels without houses and the 5-acre homestead, together for a price of $650,000 (firm). Time is of the essence. The seller expects to have an offer accepted within a month.

I have known the seller for more than four years, and I can personally attest that he is trustworthy and a devout Christian, and that he did everything thing “right” when he developed this retreat. I have personally seen all of the developments mentioned with the exception of the fallout shelter. I know the property quite well. (I spent several weeks living in the guest cabin.) I can also attest that the wild game is plenty “thick” at Huckleberry Haven. You will certainly never starve there!

For the privacy of the seller, and due to the nature of his preparations, I plan to act as an intermediary until I’m convinced that I’m dealing with a legitimate, qualified, and sincere buyer before I put you in touch with the seller or reveal the exact locale. Please e-mail me if you are genuinely interested in buying this property. Just put “Huckleberrt Haven” in the e-mail title and let me know if you have the desire and means to relocate in the next six months. No tire kickers, please.