You might have noticed that we’ve added a second advertisement for Front Sight in our scrolling ads. This ad is for their new “Get a Gun” training and gear package offer. See details on this incredibly generous offer, below.
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The Hedges Get Trimmed
Just as I warned the readers of SurvivalBlog many months ago, hedge funds are vulnerable to rapid swings in interest rates. (My first warning was even before the pair of Bear Stearns hedge funds collapsed in the summer of 2007.) As the global liquidity crisis has expanded, other hedge funds have started to collapse en masse.
Here is an article is from England that is indicative of what is happening globally. (This is a global collapse, because again, as I warned, the current liquidity crisis is global in scale.) Hedge fund legends hit by financial crisis.
And here is an article from the American perspective: Debt Reckoning: U.S. Receives a Margin Call
With leverage ratios that average 26-to-1, hedge funds are very vulnerable to margin calls.
Check out this video clip on the hit to the finance houses, and this one on the plight of the hedge funds.
The Insider told me he expects that the majority of publicly-traded US hedge funds may be out of business by the end of 2008. Seventy down, 6,850 to go.
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Front Sight’s New “Get a Gun” Training and Gear Offer
Front Sight has been a SurvivalBlog advertiser for nearly as long as I have been writing the blog. The Memsahib and I have both attended four-day courses at Front Sight, and we can attest that the training there is absolutely top notch. We were both very impressed with the world class quality of the instruction and the quiet professionalism of the instructors. The Front Sight experience is hard to put into words. You really need to experience it for yourself.
To be prepared for the potentially dark days ahead, I highly recommend that at least one member of your family attend Front Sight, and then come home and cross-train the rest of the family. Owning a gun doesn’t make you “shooter” any more than owning a surf board makes your a “surfer”. Training is crucial. When the Schumer hits the fan, you need to be confident and competent with firearms. That only comes with proper training and regular practice. The bottom line: Get the best training available. And that is exactly what you will receive at Front Sight.
You might have noticed that there are now two ads for Front Sight in our scrolling ads. The new ad is for their very generous “Get a Gun” training and gear package offer. This is their biggest promotion ever, and it includes so much free gear that you would be crazy to to not take advantage of it. This offer includes all of the following:
Four Day Defensive Handgun Course ($2,000 Value),
30 State (One Day) CCW course ($500 Value),
Seven Dry Practice Manuals ($280 Value),
Limited Edition Stainless Steel Folding Knife with Front Sight Logo ($300 Value),
Front Sight Armorer’s Bench Mat ($40 Value),
Front Sight “Any Gun Will Do– If You Will Do!” Shirt ($30 Value),
Front Sight logo hat ($20 Value),
Front Sight Instructor Belt, Holster, Mag Pouch, Flashlight Pouch and Flashlight ($230 Value),
and, your choice of a brand new in-the-box, Springfield Armory XD Pistol in 9mm, or .40 S&W or .45 ACP (a $600 value.) Needless to say, I suggest getting the .45 ACP variant.
I highly recommend Front Sight’s training. Again, it is truly world class. Their new “Get a Gun” offer is an amazing 4-to-1 “exchange in abundance.” If up ’til now you’ve been hesitating about taking a course at Front Sight, then by all means quit hesitating, and take advantage of this offer. It is a genuine bargain!
OBTW, if you have any questions about this offer, feel free to e-mail me. If I can’t answer one of your questions, then I will get a answer from Front Sight.
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Two Letters Re: Homemade Alcohol Stoves
Mr. Rawles,
The recent article on alcohol stoves made me think of these ultra-lightweight, portable alcohol stoves made out of soda cans, See this Wikipedia article.
I have successfully built the original Pepsi-can version using epoxy glue, as well as the Heineken-can “penny” version. I have not tested them “in the field” but both work very well indoors, and they have impressive performance, boiling 2 cups of water in 5 minutes using only 2 tablespoons of alcohol. Those who have actually used them outdoors say they outperform other small stoves even in the most extreme of conditions. Even for indoor use, they are a compact, easily stored backup for cooking.
The stoves are easy to build, but expect to build a few to get the hang of it and make a well-burning version. Many web sites are available that cover different versions of the stove and various accessories to go along with it.
For fuel, you should only use methyl or ethyl alcohol. Don’t use isopropyl alcohol in these stoves, as it will cover the bottom of your pots and pans with soot. Methyl alcohol burns hot and clean, but it is poisonous. It is available, among other places, as HEET brand engine fuel line de-icer in auto parts stores in the red bottles. (Don’t get ISO-HEET, since that is isopropyl alcohol). Denatured ethyl alcohol is cheapest, and of course Everclear 190 proof grain alcohol works as well, but it is quite expensive. Sincerely, – Chris S.
JWR Adds: Denatured ethyl alcohol (“grain alcohol”) is much less expensive if bought in quarts or gallons. It is available at paint stores. Don’t buy methyl alcohol (Methanol or “wood” alcohol”), because of its toxicity. Long term exposure to the fumes or just brief contact with the skin can be toxic and can cause irreversible liver damage.
James,
LeAnne’s article today has some bad advice and some misstatements in it – potentially dangerous.
First of all, alcohol will produce Carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (not carbon MONoxide, CO) only in a perfect (ideal) combustion, with exactly the correct proportion of oxygen – called the stoichiometric ratio. Any deviation from that will produce imperfect combustion and CO. Even a perfect combustion will result in CO2 being produced, the carbon atoms in the alcohol have to go somewhere. And perfect combustion only happens on chemistry examinations. A buildup of CO2 can be just as deadly as CO.
Secondly, 70% alcohol is 30% water….and before you get any heat out of burning the alcohol you need to heat up and boil off the water. Half of the energy of the alcohol (by volume) is wasted getting rid of the water The water vapor added to a shelter could be significant. A better choice would be 91% alcohol, if you had to use isopropyl alcohol. A better choice IMO would be alcohol available from paint stores, boating shops, etc.
For people travelling (backpacking, etc) a higher energy density fuel (gasoline versus alcohol, with roughly twice as much BTU value per pound of fuel carried) makes more sense. Alcohol stoves have their niche but LeAnne’s reliance on them can lead one to dangerous reliance on them in inappropriate conditions. – Flighter
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Letter Re: Reloading for 7.5 Swiss
Dear Jim,
Regarding East Tennessee Hillbilly’s otherwise excellent summary of reloading: In the back of the Arsenal of Democracy I keep a case of each caliber I shoot. The 7.5 Swiss cartridge has a wider case, thicker base and thicker rim than .308. I don’t believe it’s possible to fabricate 7.5 Swiss cartridges from .308. – Michael Z. Williamson
JWR Replies: I have read that .284 Winchester brass can be re-formed to 7.5 Swiss without much difficultly. The same thread mentions that Graf & Sons sells virgin Boxer-primed 7.5 Swiss brass that they had made up with their own head stamp.
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Hawaiian K mentioned a Gizmodo blog piece that has some interesting metrics on oil versus biofuel production.
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Bill S. flagged this: A Grim Tradition, and a Long Struggle to End It. Bills’ comment: “Another excellent reason to avoid border areas when selecting retreat locations.”
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Reader KAF found this piece that shows that the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB) will undoubtedly grow, and grow, and grow: Senate Leaders Unveil Bipartisan Plan to Slow Home Foreclosures
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Perennial Odds ‘n Sods contributor RBS forwarded this: Some homes worth less than their pipes–Thieves now stealing valuable metals from foreclosed homes
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"Procrastination is our favorite form of self-sabotage." – Alyce P. Cornyn-Selby, American author
Note from JWR:
Today we present the first article for Round 16 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 16 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
The Homemade Alcohol Stove and The Wonder Box, by LeAnne
In any situation, small electricity outage, or large-scale grid-down disaster, a simple homemade alcohol stove and a Wonder Box slow cooker can simplify your life and add the comfort of cooking and warmth.
Why alcohol?
Alcohol is the one fuel that can be burned indoors without any chimney or any objectionable fumes. The only byproduct is water. [JWR Adds: Keep in mind that for safety, even with an alcohol stove, some ventilation is needed, sine the combustion will consume available oxygen.]
Isopropyl alcohol (70%) is cheap. A couple of quarts can be purchased for about $3.00 at Costco or Sam’s Club.
The small alcohol stove burns about a pint of alcohol in eight hours. It can be used to cook food. It can also bring the temperature of a small room up to reasonable levels without any fumes. In a larger room, you might want to use three of them.
How to make one?
You need a larger can, such as a clean empty steel one gallon paint can; and a smaller can, such as a clean empty quart paint can. These can be purchased clean and unused from a paint store, or a store like Home Depot, for $1.00 to $4.00 each. You also need a roll of cheap (not quality) toilet tissue and your alcohol. The reason you don’t want quality toilet tissue is that it won’t fit into the can. However, you can overcome that problem by just removing some of the tissue.
First, you remove the cardboard tube from the inside of the tissue with a knife. Then scrunch up the roll of tissue and stuff it into the smaller can. Then take the larger can and punch holes all over the side of the can, so that air can flow through it. You can do this with a hammer and nails. You can draw designs on the can with a dry-erase marker and pound holes along the lines, if you wish. If you fill it with water and freeze it before punching the holes in it, you won’t smash it while you are making the holes. If you need it “right now,” you can fill it with ice pieces and snow, tamped down, before pounding, or just find a way to make holes without smashing it.
Fill the smaller can with 1-1/2 cups of alcohol, so that you can see the alcohol at the top of the tissue. Put this can into the larger one, and light the alcohol. You can put a pan on the top of it to cook your food. I would be careful to put it somewhere where nobody will knock it over accidentally while it is cooking.
One pint of alcohol will burn about eight hours. However, if you extinguish the flame, before you can light it again, you have to pour in more alcohol to bring the level up to the top of the toilet tissue again before you light it.
You should not plan to store the alcohol stove with the alcohol in the can, since it could rust.
It isn’t an extremely hot flame. It may take a bit longer to cook your food. We took quite a while one day to cook pancakes for four hungry people using alcohol. But it is easy, cheap and safe. And it requires materials that you probably have on hand.
* * * *
The Wonder Box
Ideally, if you have an alcohol stove, you have a Wonder Box insulated slow cooker to go with it.
If you bring your stew to a boil over your alcohol stove and then put it into a Wonder Box and cover it carefully with its lid–six hours later, it will still be so hot that you will have to use hot pads to take it out. It has been cooking all of that time, and saving you fuel.
If the food has been hot and cooking all of that time, it did not need to be refrigerated. So you could cook your stew and eat it hot for lunch, then put it boiling hot, nestled down into the Wonder Box, and take it out still hot for dinner. No refrigerator needed.
The fabric must be 100% cotton to prevent it from melting from the heat of the pan. The pan must be one that has small handles on each side and it must have a lid. A pan with one long handle extending out from under the Wonder Box lid, will lose too much heat through the handle, and it will not work as well.
The Wonder Box is much like two small bean bag chairs, one being the lid for the other. You can get the pattern in a fabric store. The larger one is 24” in diameter and the smaller one about 16”. You make it in sections, like orange sections, just the peeling part, made out of 100% cotton. Denim is a good fabric. Even old jeans stitched together would work. You stitch it together, leaving an 8” hole for turning. Turn it right side out and fill with seven gallons of Styrofoam beads. Make the lid in the same way, using four gallons of beads. Don’t let the static electricity of the beads bother you. Pin your seam, then try nestling a pan down inside to see if you have enough or too many beads. Sew up the seams, and you have a Wonder Box.
The Styrofoam beads can be purchased at stores such as Smith’s grocery stores. They come in a four-foot long tube that holds enough for two Wonder Boxes, for about $15.00.
Nestle a covered pot of boiling food down into the Wonder Box bottom, and carefully cover with the insulating Wonder Box top. It is a good idea to put a layer of aluminum foil between the pan and the Wonder Box just to keep the Wonder Box clean. Let it sit for up to seven hours, and it will cook with no additional heat.
Whatever method you use to bring your food to a rolling boil before you put it into the Wonder Box, it can save valuable fuel in a time of no electricity or other services. * * * *
Variations on The Alcohol Stove:
What if you need an alcohol stove “right now,” and you don’t have clean empty paint cans?
Some people have used #10 cans like the ones that food storage wheat or rice or beans, etc. come in. They have also used a “church key” type can opener to make the holes in these cans, since they are lighter. I would prefer the gallon paint can if possible, because it is heavier and therefore more stable with a pot of boiling food on top of it. Also, it has a lid and a handle for carrying.
You can also use the #1 cans that come with the larger size canned peaches and hold about a quart, for the inside of the stove. The problem with these is that it is harder to extinguish the flame down inside the can, because you don’t have a lid to put on it. This can be overcome, of course. Just don’t singe your arm while doing it.
You could also use something like the “Pirouettes” cookie cans. The problem with these is that you have an extra inch of can. Not a terrible problem.
If you need more room heat, you could use three #303 cans like you get with canned vegetables, and put all three down inside one of those large $5.00 popcorn cans that you get at Christmas. Don’t forget to put the holes in the sides of the can. You would have to take off more toilet tissue from the roll, and you would have to use a sharp knife to slice off about 1/2 inch of the end of the roll of tissue, so that it would not extend past the top of the smaller can. But it can be done. You then have a nice little warming “furnace” with a lid on the top.
When terrible things happen, people need something simple, dependable and comforting. They need something easy to use and fast. After they have had time to adjust, they can get on with more complex tools and equipment. But for that first little while, an alcohol stove is easy, simple, lightweight and comforting, as well as safe, and it won’t make any harmful fumes.
Letter Re: Some Offshore Retreat Considerations
Mr. Rawles,
A good set of links on finding a homestead that may be useful to your readers can be found at The Mother Earth News web site.
I also agree with Jason in North Idaho’s comments. Relocating to the developing world for the purpose of long term survival is not something I would recommend. I am presently living in the developing world because I work here–at least for the time being. I probably have this in common with many of your readers who work as security contractors. My long term goal is to return to return to my home country and relocate to a small town.
Don’t relocate to run away. Relocate to achieve a goal. Think about the kind of lifestyle you want to live, and work towards that.
I am willing to accept more risk than most people. I also was trained by the military to function in unstable environments and consequently I get paid a lot more to do the same job because of that. But this is a short term temporary strategy to enable me to get some cash to buy some land. Everyone must make their own risk assessments and plan accordingly.
In the meantime my focus is planning for and taking precautions against political instability, crime and pandemic flu. Long term I am very concerned about Peak Oil. The developing world will stop developing when foreign aid is cut off and that there will be a serious population crash in an energy descent scenario. Regards, – Felix D.
Odds ‘n Sods:
Reader “Suz” recommended United States Plastic Corp., in Lima, Ohio as a supplier for food grade HDPE storage buckets. Although they are a large-scale manufacturer, they are willing to take fairly small orders directly from the public. Suz said that it was a pleasure doing business with this “God-owned” company.
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KAF mentioned this piece on rethinking and revisions in Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).
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Mark C. flagged this: UBS Gives Haircuts on Auction Rate Securities
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Thanks to Hawaiian K. for finding this: Analyst Predicts Corn Rationing in 2008
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“The primary fear we entertain today is that our “slaves” (machines) may be about to run out of “food” (oil) and our intricate civilization will come sputtering to a stop. There are lots of arguments
about this, with wide differences of opinion about when the oil will run out, how fast we are using it up, and how much unknown oil remains hidden in the Earth’s crust. It really doesn’t matter. No one argues that the oil will not, in fact, run out sooner or later. It will. Certainly no one disputes that the Arabs, who have the largest reserves left in the world, are capable of rationing our supply or cutting it off if they like. They already have. And as for the United States’ policy of developing the north slope of Alaska as quickly as possible in order to become energy “self sufficient,”that’s like noticing that the gas tank is nearly empty and flooring the accelerator so you can get to a service station before you run out. It’s not very smart.” – Dr. Bruce Clayton, “Life After Doomsday” (1979)
Notes from JWR:
I’ve never been much of a trickster, so please don’t analyze today’s posts, looking for April Fools Day tricks. There are none.
We have finished the judging… The winner of Round 15 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. is Paul C., for his article “My Seven Favorite North American Edible Wild Plants”. He gets the top prize–a four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. These certificates are worth up to $2,000! Our thanks to Front Sight’s director, Naish Piazza, for generously donating the course certificate. Check out the Front Sight web site and take advantage of their great training opportunities. My advice is to sign up for courses that start before May 15th, to beat the summer heat!
Second prize goes to Nina for her article: “Sanitation During a Grid Down Collapse”. Her prize is is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing.
I’m also sending out two honorable mention prizes to W. in Washington for his article “Characteristics of a General Purpose Survival Flashlight”, and to Brandon in Utah for his article “AA Cells and Mobile Power”. Both of them will get their choice of autographed copies of my books: “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation”, or “SurvivalBlog: The Best of the Blog.”
Note to all the prize winners: Send me an e-mail to let me know your snail mail addresses, and your prizes will be mailed to you shortly. Thanks ladies gents, and congratulations!
Today we start Round 16 of the contest. Send your non-fiction articles via e-mail for a chance to win some great prizes! The first prize will again be a four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate!
Letter Re: Learn How to “Roll Your Own” Ammo
James;
One skill that will be in great demand by almost everyone in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment will be a skilled and resourceful ammunition reloader. Equipment is relatively inexpensive and downright cheap if you know where to look. Pawn shops almost never buy reloading equipment because it is slow and, or difficult to move. I have made arrangements with a few pawn shop owners and when a batch of reloading stuff comes available from estates they just give them my number. No matter how much gear there is, a pawn shop will only offer, if they even make an offer about a hundred bucks. I usually try to offer the widows a fair price but in the end you are still buying for pennies on the dollar. Often reloading gear will be given to you if you show an interest and a little respect.
It is an opportunity to acquire odd caliber dies, bullets, brass and often large stores of powder. The old reloading books are great references for older powders that will still be usable if stored properly. Always store your powder in a cool, dry and dark place. I am using some 30 year old powder that was stored this way and it works just fine. One can never have too much powder, [too many primers,] or too many reloading manuals.
Any gun shop that sells reloading equipment has free loading data provided my the powder and bullet manufactures and these small books can be acquired by writing, calling or going to the powder and bullet companies web sites. These are invaluable resources as they try to show case how versatile their products can be and the large reloading manuals will leave out some less than ideal powder, bullet, caliber combinations that we may be forced to try some day simply because of space limitations and the large manuals are somewhat expensive although necessary. Remember that we are trying to make safe reliable ammo that will suffice for the purpose at hand and we are not trying to come up with the perfect powder, bullet combo that will better factory ballistics.
JWR is right when he suggests that you stock only common caliber ammo in large quantities for yourself. However, there are still going to be quite a few .32 Winchester Special, 38-55 and especially 30-30 Winchesters around that will need ammunition and all three of those caliber cases can be made from fired .30-30 cases. A host of calibers can have their brass cases formed from the very common .30-06 such as .270 Winchester and .25-06 just by sizing the necks down. The.308 Winchester (7.62x51mm) is the parent case for .243 Win,..260 Rem, and 7mm-08. Simple neck resizing is all that is necessary and all it takes is a little knowledge and the correct dies.
Much more elaborate cartridge conversions can be done by annealing the cartridge brass (necks only–never the bases) simply by standing the cases in an inch of water, heating them until red with a torch and then knocking them over to cool in the water. This softens the brass and makes splitting case necks less likely. Brass work hardens as it is reloaded and this process is a useful skill to prolong case life even for common calibers. Calibers like the 7.5x55mm Schmidt Rubin in the well made Swiss [K31] rifles that have flooded the market the past few years are easy to fabricate from the very common .308 Win cases if you know where to look for specs and the place to look is “The Handloaders Manual of Cartridge Conversions” by Donnelly & Towsley from Stoeger Publishing. It is a great resource and it covers more than 1,000 cartridges in detail with accurate drawings, capacities and dimensions. With this book a set of good calipers, micrometer and reloading data there are very few calibers that one can not reloaded.
Anytime someone asks you if you want a small lot of odd caliber of brass take it and clean, sort and store it. It doesn’t matter if you don’t have a gun in that caliber, someone, somewhere will or it might be used to create cases for another caliber There are only four sizes of boxer primers so stock up on those. Large rifle, small rifle, large pistol and small pistol and don’t worry about magnum primers just use one of the hotter standard primers such as Winchester ‘s Stainless. The only caveat here is gas auto loading rifles should only use CCI #34 or #41 hard military primers to prevent slam fires.
There are some powders that are very versatile and can be used for many calibers, for example Unique handgun powder can be used for just about every pistol caliber. It might not be the perfect choice for certain cartridges but it would certainly serve the purpose.
Reloading skills can be bartered for other things because a firearm without ammunition doesn’t even make a good club. As charity you might be the only person that can give a family a means of self defense by reloading ammo for them that is impossible to obtain any other way.
Since you can’t reload .22 rimfire ammo, buy a couple of the 550 round boxes every time that you are at Wal-Mart, or mail order 5,000 round. cases. This is something that almost everyone can afford. While you are making connections at the pawn shops pick up some used .22 rifles, I often can buy Glenfield and Marlin autos for less than 50 bucks apiece if I shop in the spring and avoid the 1st and 15th of the month and go on the first of the week. Pawn shop owners are more likely to cut you a deal at these times because of cash flow. What a great trade item or gift to some deserving but unprepared family
Bullet casting equipment is often included with reloading equipment and this simple skill is another arrow in your quiver. The Cast Bullet Association has a free forum that has a wealth of knowledge and any question that you have will be answered by the top experts in this field in an informative and entertaining way. Cast bullets were used for all hunting and war purposes for centuries before jacketed bullets came along in the late 1800s. You will notice that some of the cast bullet rifle shooters are getting 10 shot groups around an inch at 200 yards! I assure you that my efforts have never been that amazing but then I’m not a top competitor.
Making bullets and reloading ammo could make your talents very sought after over a fairly large geographic area so be prudent about your security measures. Word of your skills might bring about many barter opportunities that otherwise might be impossible. As charity, you might save an entire family’s lives for very little investment of resources and we all want to help the good guys out if we can. Folks will want to insure your safety if you have built up a relationship with them and provide a necessary service.
I have an extensive list of reloading equipment but have invested less than the cost of a FAL or M1A. I’ve been at this for almost 40 years now and have taught Boy Scouts, housewives, service veterans, preachers or anyone that asked the necessary skills to produce quality ammunition. Several times I have been given firearms simply because ammo was unavailable and I haven’t failed to produce good safe ammo for any gun yet. Get your beans, bullets and band-aids in order first, and then get started looking for the tools and acquire the skills to become the community Ammo Cobbler. – East Tennessee Hillbilly
Letter Re: Sword Ban Begins on April 6th in the United Kingdom
James:
In the past you have recommended that SurvivalBlog readers in the UK to get a samurai sword. Well, they are banning them now.
As of the 6th April 2008 it will become illegal to manufacture, import or sell (but not own) all swords with a curved, single edged blade over 50 cm in the U.K.
Although they can still supply such weapons for “permitted activities”. These activities include; Historical re-enactments and Sporting Activities.
The legislation does not mention samurai swords. It only mentions single-edged curved swords with a blade length of 50cm or over. As per the document, it appears that all swords with those characteristics will be banned. Including Chinese Dao, American & European Sabres, Filipino Swords etc.
They have not had a vote with the members of parliament on this. They are just banning them [by decree].
If you want one before that, I would say the best makers seem to be Cold Steel (but they cost a lot more and I don’t think you will find one in time), or Hanwai / Paul Chan. (For he latter, contact the UK dealer–you may be just in time.) It looks like I got my samurai [sword] just in time.
You can always get a non-curved blade like a Shinodi (Ninja sword), a broad sword or a Side sword (I want the Hanwei one) these last two are also double-edge. Cold Steel makes a [straight] double-edge samurai sword so that for now will be okay for now but I bet soon they will ban anything double-edge or with a blade over 50cm. – Simon in England
JWR Replies: The UK government is clearly doing its best to put its citizenry at the mercy of criminals. Soon enough, your ever-tightening Country Code will have your self defense options reduced to just butter knives, ASBOs, cricket bats, and harsh language. It is now abundantly clear that violent crime is already at unacceptable levels in urban areas of the UK. In the event of an economic collapse, things could resemble the recently-released Doomsday movie. Under those circumstances the majority will fall prey to a minority that is younger, stronger, and uninhibited by moral compunctions.
I must reassert that it is clearly time to take the gap. The US and New Zealand still have immigration programs that are advantageous. Get out of England soon, while these programs are still available.