Letter Re: Drinking Water Sources and Microbes

Water is essential for human life and unfortunately some sources provide water unsafe for human consumption. There are several methods for treating water including osmosis, distillation, ultra violet, boiling, filtering, and chemicals such as chlorine or iodine. Most of these treatments are aimed at biological contamination and each of them has disadvantages in a WTSHTF scenario. My solution is to first pre-filter the water using coffee filters or a clean rag, then use a quality microfilter such as the Katadyn Pocket filter, and then boil or chemical treat the water as the situation allows. In this article we will briefly examine biological contaminates and why I came to my solution. Contaminates may also include chemicals but is beyond the scope of this article.
Biological contaminates consist of microorganisms also called microbes. There are four different groups. Arranged from largest to smallest they are, fungi, protista, bacteria, and viruses. The smallest bacteria which causes human disease is Mycoplasma pneumoniae which is approximately 0.2 microns in size. When selecting a microfilter, I want one that filters down to at least 0.2 microns (a micron is one micrometer or 0.000001 meter or 1 x 10-6 meter). While effective against bacteria and larger microorganisms, even a good microfilters (0.2 microns) can not be counted on to filter out viruses unless there is another mechanism to trap or destroy the virus. All the viruses I am familiar with are smaller in diameter than 0.3 microns, examples include Smallpox 0.250 microns, Rabies 0.150 microns, Influenza (Flu) 0.100 microns, and Polio 0.028 microns. Viruses are composed of DNA or RNA surrounded by a protein coat called a capsid. This construction allows them to be easily destroyed by boiling or chemicals such as iodine or bleach. While iodine or bleach is effective against viruses, it is ineffective against the protista Cryptosporidium. Since the first recorded human case of Cryptosporidiosis in 1976, it has grown to become one of the most common waterborne diseases. Rates from 6%, to as high as 54% have been found in day care centers in the United States. In 1993, an outbreak in Milwaukee, Wisconsin infected approximately 400,000 residents. 4,400 people had to be hospitalized and the cost of the outbreak was estimated at over $54 million. If this is a problem now, imagine what it would be in WTSHTF scenario. See the CDC web site for additional information. What about boiling water to kill microbes? Unfortunately, some bacteria produce spores (also called endospores) which can survive extreme conditions. They can survive being boiled in water (100 degrees Celsius) for two hours, survive in 70% ethyl alcohol for 20 years, or survive one million REMs ([just] 600 REMs is fatal to most people). One of the most infamous bacteria that forms spores is Bacillus anthracis which causes Anthrax. By using a microfilter, I am eliminating fungi, protista, bacteria including spores and leaving only viruses that can easily be destroyed with chemicals or by boiling.

I came across another product called “First Need Portable Water Purifier” that is supposed to remove viruses without any chemicals. I have no experience with this product but will be checking it out. See their web site for more information. – Bill N.

Letter Re: Using NBC Markers to Augment Retreat Security

Mr. Rawles,
I think that some attention should be paid to implementing psychological deterrents as a measure of improving retreat security after The Crunch. As food and water sources are depleted in the cities and the surviving population begins to mobilize you will more than likely see refugees passing through your retreat locale. These people may be armed and will be tough as they have survived to this point, but
mentally they will be tired. When they approach your compound they will view fences, antipersonnel barriers and armed conflict as obstacles that can be defeated. The point is to try and keep them from getting to this point. If you can create an obstacle that is impossible to beat they won’t even consider it.

What I am suggesting is [simulated] NBC (Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical) threat through the use of markers. Almost every adult is familiar with these symbols and their related colors and will probably do whatever they can to stay away from them if they know that there is a threat. So I would suggest that in areas where you feel that people may be traveling and wander into your territory that you use one of the placebo markers. You could even fashion some fake graves near the area or spread animal bones. [Most] people will not know the difference. Upon seeing these people may immediately rethink their route and destination and avoid your retreat.

To add to this, if the scenario is bad enough such that there is military conflict you could even use fake anti-vehicle/personnel mine markers. You could even combine the two–such as placing a burned vehicle with a scorched area around it to mimic an attack with depleted uranium, and then place nuclear hazard signs around it. I know that it is may seem cruel to play with people’s minds, but if they were to accidentally wander onto your retreat and pose a threat then their lives would be at stake. Regards, – Echofourcharlie

Letter Re: Wheat Price Inflation and The Importance of Buying in Bulk Locally

Hi Jim:

Last year I bought some wheat from Walton Feed: about $8 for a 50 lb. bag. Called then yesterday: $15.50 for the same 50 lb. bag: But inflation is running at only 4% right? Luckily I found an organic grower of wheat an hour away who will sell for $800/ton and avoid the $500+ shipping fee. Not many wheat growers in Massachusetts. It pays to shop locally. – John

Odds ‘n Sods:

D.V. suggested this article by Charles Hughes Smith that explains the hedge fund nightmare: The Great Unraveling Begins

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John at SurvivalistBooks.com e-mailed us to mention that there is a newer version of Alan T. Hagan’s collection of Food Storage FAQs, available for free download. I just updated my links to the FAQs–both in the blog thread, and in the SurvivalBlog Links page.

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Frequent contributor Hawaiian K. sent us a link to the Barefoot Motors web site. They make an electric ATV with regenerative braking. Check out their video clip. Do you recognize Jamie from Myth Busters?

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Mark in Montana told us about a web site for food grade steel cans and a can sealer in Canada. Its called Wells Can Company Ltd. They have a manual can sealer for $245.00 (U.S.) for sealing 301 and 307 cans and $26.00 more for sealing 401 28 oz. cans. Mark noted that they have many kinds of food grade cans and other canning items available.

Letter Re: Advice on Rifle Stock Pouches

Mr. Rawles:
In television news footage and magazine articles about U.S. troops stationed in Iraq, Afghanistan, and elsewhere, I often see soldiers with nylon pouches attached to their rifle [butt]stocks. They seem to hold extra magazines. That seems pretty handy, so you always have a spare magazine, even if you get separated from your “Deuce” [web] gear. Do you recommend doing this? If so, what sort of pouch do you suggest for my M1A and AR-15? I also have several bolt actions, but only one of mine takes [detachable] magazines, and only four rounders are available for it. What should I use for those rifles ? Thanks, – G.H.

JWR Replies: I do recommend using buttstock pouches, so long as they do not interfere with proper sighting and cheek weld. In my experience they work fine on fixed stock rifles, but are a bit cumbersome on folding or collapsing stock guns. Here at the Rawles Ranch, we use Spec-Ops brand “Ready Fire Mode” magazine pouches for our L1A1s, which each hold one 20 round .308 magazine. The same pouch should fit FAL, M1A, and AR-10 magazines, but I think HK91 magazines are too bulky–because of their reinforced top sections–to fit these pouches. The same company also makes a variant of this stock puch for AR-15/M16 and other .223 magazines. SpecOps brand pouches are available from a number of Internet vendors including Midway USA.

The Memsahib has a Valmet Hunter .308 that is equipped with a widely available Michaels of Oregon (Uncle Mike’s) stock pouch. It is used to carry a spare five round magazine, hunting license, and tags. All of our shotguns are equipped with similar Michaels of Oregon (Uncle Mike'”) stock pouches that hold five shells. We use the type that are covered with a velcro-secured flap. (This both prevents lost shells and cuts down on shell head reflections. (I do not recommend the more common type shotshell holder that lacks a flap cover. Those are an invitation to lose shells when in the field.)

For all of our centerfire bolt actions that have non-detachable magazines, we use olive drab Holland’s of Oregon brand zippered-nylon buttstock pouches with neoprene cheekpieces. These also work well for holding small (4 or 5 cartirdge) magazines. I noticed that they are not currently cataloged at the Holland’s web site, but I believe that they should still be available. (Call to inquire.) This is a first rate item.

Letter Re: Calculating Bulk Storage Food Quantities

Shalom Jim:
I was visiting Geri Guidetti’s Ark Institute web site and she has posted on there that for just one adult male the following is the minimum food storage requirements for one year:
1.) 350 lbs. of wheat (actually for a family of four it is close to 1,200 pounds of wheat alone)
2.) 155 lbs. of various grains
3.) 55 lbs. of beans, etc.
My question for you is do you agree with these numbers? And are you storing quantities like this or do you use a different system?

I am getting ready to make some large purchases so I’d appreciate your knowledge, please.

Shalom B’shem Yahshua Ha Moshiach (Peace in the Name of Yahshua the Messiah) – Dr. Sidney Zweibel

JWR Replies: Those figure vary widely, depending on which book you read or web site you visit. I think that some figures are perhaps a bit high, but they are made with the conservative assumption that almost everything would be made from scratch. For example, that you would have only whole wheat and no stored supplies of flour, pasta, or breakfast cereals. Thus, you’d often be using wheat berries (soaked swollen whole wheat) in lieu of breakfast cereal.

The most widely accepted figures come from the LDS church food storage web site. There, they have an interactive calculator. Punching in “4” (for a family with four members that are 7 or older), it yields these figures:

Wheat: 600 pounds (of a total of 1,200 pounds of grains, which includes 200 pounds of rice.)

Beans, dry 120 pounds (out of a total of 240 pounds of legumes.)

This calculator also gives quantities for sugars, milk, fats and oils, salt, and so forth. It is quite a useful tool, and I commend its anonymous author/designer. (No doubt part of someone’s LDS missionary project.) BTW, this calculator also serves as a valuable reality check for anyone that just used their our own quantity assumptions when buying bulk foods.

Quite importantly, if you think that you’ll have any assorted parents, siblings cousins, aunts, uncles, church brethren, and shooting buddies (and their offspring) arriving on your doorstep on TEOTWAWKI +1, then consider those additional numbers when making your storage food quantity calculations. Odds are that it will give you some very large numbers, indeed!

The shelf life of most bulk foods is quite long (8 to 30 years) if they are properly packaged. (See Alan T. Hagan’s Food Storage FAQ. It is excellent.) In their soft grocery store packaging, some foods have a pitifully short shelf life. I included a lengthy table with some very useful data on food shelf life in my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course. The table differentiates between packaging methods for many foods.

When planning, if you must err, then err on the side of larger quantities. The extra supply will either extend your own supplies or provide a surplus for charity of barter.If you have the space and you have the money, then buy more. Someday you’ll be glad that you did.

Letter Re: Survival Sewing, by “Springmtd”

A sewing machine is a critical item in my household that has saved me thousands of dollars in gear I would otherwise have had to buy. Sewing actually provided me higher performance customized gear that simply wasn’t available unless I made it myself.

In normal times it makes more sense economically to buy most clothing since it is readily available inexpensively or second hand. Sewing time is better spent on [making] higher-priced items like outdoor gear. During difficult times even clothing might not be available. It could be necessary to rely on home sewing to provide almost everything that is needed. I have made duffle bags, back packs, fanny packs, stuff sacks, gun cases, rain gear, sleeping bags, down coats, hats, rifle slings, ammo pouches, vehicle tow straps, under wear, and baby clothes. During good times or bad a sewing machine can provide a richer lifestyle

Surprisingly, unless you’ve experienced it, it is frequently faster to make exactly what you want or modify existing gear rather than to spend time and money to search it out and purchase it. I have usually experienced this after the stores are closed and I am packing up to leave on a trip first thing in the morning. There is really no limit to what you can produce. You will end up with more gear and better gear. Your hard earned money can go toward things you can’t easily provide for yourself.

What kind of sewing machine should you get?

There are a lot of solid durable sewing machines that would meet a survivalist’s needs but I recommend looking for black Singer straight stitch machines. They are a tremendous value compared to the expensive modern industrial machine you would need to do comparable heavy duty sewing. The Singers are sturdy, reliable machines and conveniently they are very common and readily available often for free if they are just gathering dust in a friend or relatives closet. Ask around you might be surprised. If you have to buy one they can be found at yard sales for $10 to $20. Except for the free ones I have paid as little as $3 and these days if I can get one for $10 or less I buy it. I really don’t need anymore but they are useful as trade goods or spares.

Get a treadle stand. You want a treadle stand for your sewing machine for two reasons. A dedicated stand or cabinet with the sewing machine set flush into the top is much easier to use. A treadle stand will allow you to operate without grid power. If you can find a Singer treadle stand with the machine still in it, great. If some budding Martha Stewart has pulled the machine out to make a flower stand buy it anyway if the price is right. All the standard size Singer machines can be mounted in the treadle stand. My treadle started out with the original Model 66 machine. It was later switched out for a Singer Model 15 with a reverse and finally the Model 15 was switched out for a top of the line Model 201.

Which machines should you get? Yes plural. You need at least one spare. Although the only thing I have broken in 40 years of often abusive sewing has been needles. Considering the price of used machines there is no point in stocking repair parts. Just get a spare machine or two. You can get by with one but I recommend two because you can. They’re cheap. You need one machine with the chromed rim spoked handwheel. This machine can be driven with the belt from the treadle. You need another machine with an electric motor for normal use during grid up times. Actually you can install an electric motor on any of these machines Even my 1919 Model 66 with the chromed spoked wheel has the motor boss cast into it for installing an electric motor. I don’t recommend installing a motor because a motor and foot control would cost more than buying a complete electric machine at a yard sale. The other reason I don’t like the bolt on motor is they take a rubber drive belt that is less reliable than the next option I will discuss.

The most likely electric machine–remember we are talking black Singers here–you will encounter is the Model 15. It uses a bobbin case that installs on the left end of the machine. The edge of the bobbin is toward you and it rotates on a horizontal pin pointing to the left. The Model 15 that I prefer is the Model 15-91. It has an integral motor on the back of the machine near the handwheel. The machine is driven through a worm drive. I prefer this style because there is no belt tension to adjust and no belt to wear out or fail. It is a forever machine.

The most likely treadle machine to encounter is the Model 66. The bobbin drops in from the top and rotates on a vertical axis. There is no removable bobbin case.

Skip the machines with a bullet shaped bobbin shuttle. Bobbins are harder to find and the machines and the designs are obsolete.

Both the Model 15 and 66 have an oscillating type action. The hook that catches the needle thread only rotates far enough to catch the thread and make the stitch and then reverses direction. More expensive machines have a full rotary motion. The hook continuously rotates. This is a more expensive machine to manufacture but results in a smoother running machine.

The holy grail of full size black Singer sewing machines is the Singer Model 201. This machine has a full rotary action an integral motor like the Model 15-91 and a drop in bobbin like the Model 66. The 201 also has a gold “paper clip” type design on it. If you find one of these grab it.

Get a Singer treadle stand, a Singer treadle sewing machine, and a Singer electric sewing machine with integral motor, either the 15-91 or the 201.

You also need thread, bobbins and needles. For general purpose heavy duty sewing get cones (6000 yards) of nylon or polyester upholstery thread at an upholstery store in black, white, and tan. Get Schmetz or similar quality size 100/16 denim needles in boxes of 100 for about $0.25/needle on the web. In the store they are over $1 apiece. Don’t buy cheap needles. They are not worth fooling with. The Models 66 and 201 take the same narrow bobbin. The Model 15 takes a wider bobbin. 25 bobbins of each style would probably be enough.

For $100 you can get equipment that will return the purchase price many fold and take care of your repair and manufacturing needs into the indefinite future. Get geared up and start learning a new skill.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Alphie mentioned that GlobalSecurity.org hosts an online edition of the US Army’s FM 23-10 Sniper Training

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I just heard that a new, expanded version of the promotional trailer for the “I Am Legend” feature film is now available. It looks scary and a bit OTT. But hopefully one result of this movie’s release will be that it’ll get some people thinking about the implications of a pandemic and hopefully get a few of them to stock up and get some training.

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RBS flagged this one: Foreclosure filings soar in Third Quarter. One man’s loss is another man’s gain. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, a small portion of rural foreclosures may represent a retreat buying opportunity. Monitor the market closely, either through a cooperative real estate agent in your selected retreat area, and/or through Foreclosure.com. You may find yourself a bargain in the months to come.

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Stephen C. mentioned that Ammoman.com is selling brand new (factory sealed), current generation FERO Z-24 Hensoldt 4×24 scopes, with real H&K claw mounts, tools, lens caps and case for $389. Readers that own HK91 or HK93 rifles (or clones thereof) should grab a couple of of these scopes while they are still affordable. (I first mentioned them over a year ago when they were around $275.) With the continuing slide in the dollar versus the Euro, they are bound to continue to go up in price. Remember what I said about investing in tangibles? This is a prime example.

Note from JWR:

Today we present another article for Round 13 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 13 ends on November 30th. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Home/Retreat Power Generator Noise Reduction by “Jerry the Generator Guy”

This article describes practical methods to eliminate four of the issues surrounding generators and their use.
Relatively common objections to home generators include; (1) They are often very noisy. This noise does/would bother both us and our neighbors.

(2) This high level of noise can serve as a “vermin attractor”. The vermin may need to be discouraged via your “biped eradicator”.

(3&4) Moving a generator inside a building will create both fire and exhaust hazards. I have read that after Hurricane Katrina there were several attempts to perform what we used to call “five finger discount” of someone’s generator. The following details some of the things that I have done at different locations to reduce or eliminate both the operational and security concerns.

Background:
Generator noise comes from 2 different aspects; (1). Mechanical noise from moving parts. (2). Combustion noise from the engine power. I have attacked each problem with
a separate approach. The exhaust is hazardous for two reasons. (1) It is hot. The hot surface can cause a fire if allowed to touch combustible items. (2) The exhaust contains both carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. Both gases can be lethal if they not forced to leave the area where people or animals are found.

Solution # 1 – Mechanical Noise
I installed the generator into an insulated wood building. I used a shed / building size of 8 foot by 12 foot. This size [ < 100 square foot area ] is below the typical threshold where “approval” of the local planning and zoning [departments] is required. The walls and insulation serve as a noise barrier to contain the mechanical noise. There is a very real increase in mechanical noise when you enter this building. This noise cannot be heard above the ambient noise level when outside this building.

Solution #2 – Combustion Noise
The recessed immediate area around the exhaust port on most generator mufflers is typically about 1.75 inch diameter. Two inch automotive exhaust pipe is typically necked down [ reduced in diameter ] to approximately this size. This means a 2 inch exhaust pipe can be a reasonably snug fit if inserted into this space. This fit is not gas tight. I tightly wrapped the 2 inch pipe with high temperature Fiberglass insulation. This high temperature material is commonly used to wrap steam pipes. The wrapped pipe is inserted into a 3 inch type B double wall vent pipe. Type B vent pipe is what is used for exhaust of home furnaces and hot water heaters. The 3 inch vent pipe is mechanically centered into a 4 inch vent pipe. The 4 inch vent pipe is inserted into two “thimbles”, one inside and one outside the building. The portion of the 4 inch pipe section, which is outside the building, has a perforated vent cover at the end of the vent pipe. A person walking by doesn’t see anything that indicates other than some natural/propane gas
fueled appliance is inside the building. The vent cover is removed and replaced by an automotive “turbo” [ low restriction ] muffler when “silent” running is desired. The muffler input 2 inch pipe is slipped onto the end of the 2 inch exhaust pipe.
The muffler end that is farthest from the building is supported on an H shaped construction of pipe. This muffler reduces the combustion noise to a very low level.

My wife has stated if you focus on listening that you can hear the generator running when inside the house if the vent pipe cover is used. The noise is reduced such that you have to get within approximately 20 feet before engine noise becomes noticeable when the muffler is installed. I have shown my noise reduction method to several neighbors. All very favorably commented that “Gee, you don’t even know it [the generator] is running until you got close to the building”.

Solution # 3 – Hot Exhaust
The half inch spacing gap between the 3 and 4 inch vent pipes allows some airflow to cool the piping. The use of the two thimbles, with appropriate wall cutbacks, holds the
vent / exhaust pipe assembly firmly in a fixed position. I measured the temperature of the exterior of the 4 inch pipe to be approximately 100 degrees F. above the ambient temperature. This multi layer approach reduces the risk of fire caused by overheating the wall to near zero, in my opinion.

Solution #4 – Hazardous CO Exhaust
Readers will recall a previous comment that the generator / pipe “attachment” is not gas tight. I has small amount of leakage of carbon monoxide (CO). This “looseness” means that some small amount
of exhaust can enter the building. My solution is as follows. I slightly pressurize the building by providing forced air via an 8 inch fan, [creating a “positive overpressure.”] This fan is located inside a wall vent from the outside. This forced air has two benefits. It constantly supplies fresh cool combustion air to the generator. It also flushes any exhaust, or fumes from fuel storage/spills, via an exhaust vent to become diluted outside the building. The vents are located on opposite sides of the building to periodically cause an exchange of the total volume of the air inside the building.

JWR Adds: Anyone that has a portable (i.e. skid or cart mounted) generator that is not bolted down or locked in a generator shed with a sturdy door should consider securing it with a chain and padlock. You should preferably use a hardened bolt cutter-resistant resistant bike and motorcycle security chain and a large, stout, padlock that is warded to offer little room for bolt cutters to be used. Short lengths of specially hardened chain are available from BikeNashbar.com (item # OG-BC). Longer chains should be available from JCWhitney.com. There is an even larger selection of hardened motorcycle security chains is available in England–where in recent years nicking motorcycles seems to have become a national past-time.

Two Letters Re: Colville, Washington as a Retreat Locale

JWR:
Important consideration on Colville. It is near a very large Indian Reservation (Colville Tribe) and while there is a considerable amount of private property within it’s boundary, you have no hunting rights there.
The First People are friendly, but distrustful of outsiders and in a SHTF scenario, would likely view you and yours as fair game. Unless you are a tribal member, buy outside the reservation.
I was near to closing a deal on a very nice property [inside the reservation] when another agent took me aside. – EAG

Hello Jim,
I have been reading your daily letters, comments and blogs for the last couple of months and have really enjoyed them. I saw your Real Estate update on Colville, WA and had to send a note.
I used to live in Colville about 13 years ago. It is gorgeous up there. We lived 10 miles outside of town at a ‘trailer dump’ off of ‘deer alley’ (Williams Lake Rd.) If you like travelling in snow, you’ll be fine. Our commute to Spokane was only on the weekends and up to 2 hrs. in the middle of winter. As newlyweds at that time, the logging industry was the only viable work solution. (Pre-WalMart) My son was in 1st/2nd grade and both my daughters were born in Colville at the hospital. I would rate the schools and hospital/clinic very high. The last time I was through there several years ago, it has really grown. As far as any protection problems? The forests surrounding Colville can be fairly dense in areas which would make seclusion and access your best protection. Also, great for hunting and fishing.
Kettle Falls is an ‘old-timers’ town, very quaint. The only drawback I could see is the number of Canadians that cross the borders near there. Pre-WalMart, they used to go to Spokane to shop. After Wal-Mart and other large stores opened up, three times as many, or more stop in Colville. They are required to stay overnight when they make large purchases, so they camp out in their RV’s for the weekend. I am half-Canadian myself, so I am not knocking them.
After a couple of years we moved to Spokane, later to Utah, then back to Oregon. We miss all the snow.
Thank you for all that you do to help us get prepared. – Gypsymom

Letter Re: Rolled Oats Versus Steel Cut Oats for Storage

Dear Sir,
I love your blog and read it every day. I have a background in chemistry. I believe that the fat content, per unit weight, of rolled oats is essentially the same as cut oats. What is different is the density. I agree with the point that the cut oats store more densely.
More importantly, the access of oxygen to the oil/fat is faster in the (thinner) rolled grains relative to cut, and faster in cut oats relative to whole oats. I would bet that the rolled oats will go rancid faster in a warm climate.

Other than that, I think that your analysis is spot on. It would be interesting to store whole oats and have a small bench top cutter or roller, not unlike the flour mills that we all have. I am under the impression that whole grains will store for a long time, even in the presence of air. At least I hope so, because I have diligently accumulated grain for the past three years. I packed them in poly buckets, and purged them with CO2. The plastic is too permeable to retain the CO2 exclude oxygen for more than a few months at a time. I have recently acquired some oxygen barrier bags and oxygen absorber packs to protect the contents better.

I bought some grain in 5 gallon tin cans, not well sealed, in the early 1980s. I stored them in the warm, humid conditions on the east coast for 20+ years. After 10 years, I tried grinding some of the red wheat and my Mom made bread with the whole wheat flour. The taste was slightly off, but not so that it was inedible. After 20+ years, I tried boiling some to make a pilaf (boiled red wheat pilaf is one of my favorites). Again, the flavor was off, but not much different than after 10 years. I think that whole oats would store as well as the red wheat. My folks wouldn’t permit us
to throw out the wheat and are slowly eating it. The one can of other grain (I think that it was rye) that I bought with the lot was infested with weevils.

Rancidity of oils is a free radical oxidation process. Generally speaking, free radicals are toxic. I think that it is safe to say that rancid oils are too, at least to some extent. Our bodies are adapted to manage small level of free radicals, since they are present all of the time. In fact, one of the main benefits of exercise, and to the extent that it is beneficial, alcohol
consumption, is that they both create toxic free radicals in the body. The body response to oxidative stress is to express enzymes that counter the damage so effectively that the net
result is beneficial (at least in moderation). The effect of calorie-restricted diets is similar.

I once ate some rancid wheat germ, being too young and foolish to realize that it was spoiled. It gave me the worst headache, by far, that I have ever had. Caution with rancid fats is strongly
advised. Sincerely, – John Galt