A special two-week 25% off sale on canned Mountain House foods began this morning (Sunday, November 15th) at Ready Made Resources. (One of our most loyal advertisers.) For even greater savings, they are offering free shipping on full (unbroken) cases lots. But because of the higher handling costs, if you “mix and match” cans within cases, shipping will be charged.
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Letter Re: Legality of “Law Enforcement Only” Marked Full-Capacity Magazines?
Hello,
I just had a quick question, I recently purchased a 100 round BETA C-MAG from a man at a gun show, but there are markings on the front that say “For Law Enforcement/ Government Use Only” . Does this mean I should not have bought it? And what should I do with it if it’s unlawful to have? Please help, – Peter B.
JWR Replies: Your drum magazine was produced sometime between 1994 and 2004, during a time when production for civilian sales was banned in the US. But that restriction marking became null and void after the 1994 “Assault Weapons” Ban’s sunset clause went into effect, in September, 2004. Except for residents of New York (where a separate state ban was enacted) and a few other hoplophobic localities, you should not be concerned. However, it is possible that magazine might be a source of confusion if a new full-capacity magazine production ban is ever enacted. Save your receipt, so that you can prove when it was purchased. And to avoid all ambiguity, you might eventually want to trade it off to someone in law enforcement or the military, for another one that is unmarked.
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Letter Re: Home Hot Water Heater Tanks as an Emergency Water Source?
Dear Jim,
In all the posts I have been reading about storing water, I wondered if a typical home hot water heater could be used as a source of stored water in an emergency or TEOTWAWKI. Containing about 50 gallons in a glass enclosure, could that be considered a source of water, if [civic supply tap] water was not available or had run out? I’d be interested to hear your readers’ responses.- Diane G., Springfield, TN
JWR Replies: Yes, the water in your home’s hot water heater is a good source of emergency water, if your utility water is ever disrupted. (Or, if you are on a private well, and you don’t have access to a backup generator that can power your well pump.)
You can drain the water from the hot water heater, using a standard garden hose (or the cut-off stub of a garden hose), that has the female hose fitting. OBTW, it is a good idea to drain the rusty sludge out of the bottom of your hot water heater at least once per year. Not only will this mean that you will have cleaner water available from the tank in the event of an emergency, but it will also extend the life of an electric hot water heater. (Typically, the bottom electric heating element will burn out, once the sludge level eventually works it’s way up to the bottom element.)
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Two Letters Re: Wound Irrigation in Austere Environments
Hello James,
Regarding wound irrigation, wound preps, surgical site prep, etc., folks would do well to purchase a gallon each of Betadine, Povidone, or other generic tamed iodine, in both the scrub and solution formulations. These are not terribly expensive and one likely could talk his/her Veterinarian into getting some for them, as they are not controlled substances. [JWR Adds: They are also available in the vet supply department at some of the larger feed stores, and via mail order and Internet vet supply companies like Jeffers.] These are concentrates and can be diluted, and used on wounds if the patient has no iodine allergies. Sincerely, – Mike M., DVM
Jim,
The key to stopping a wound infection is to change the physical characteristics of the wound to make it hard for the bacteria to live. Most bacteria are very specialized and sometimes something as simple as oxygen will kill them dead. Irrigation is a great help too, it gets rid of a large numbers of bacteria and the pure water causes bacteria to swell up and pop. You can also change the pH of the wound, or the salinity.
Wound care in the Third World is almost always a problem. It seems that you never have all the supplies you need. Antibiotics and even antiseptics are scarce.
One of the key pieces of kit used by some NGOs in Africa is something called “sugardine”. It’s just plain old table sugar, mixed with a mild solution of iodine. Either one works pretty well, but for a raging infection, plain old table sugar (granulated sugar or sucrose), will cause bacteria to dehydrate. Your body will respond by oozing liquid into the wound, which also helps dislodge bacteria. The normal way of using it in Africa is to unwrap the wound, irrigate it with clean water and then pack it full of sugar and re-wrap it loosely. (Don’t worry too much about dry dressings. It’s going to ooze quite copiously.) After a couple of hours, you can open it back up and irrigate it again and let it air out with loose, cry bandages until the next sugar treatment.
Repack the wound with sugar twice a day and the results are amazing. – Jon
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Economics and Investing:
GG mentioned this in The Wall Street Journal: Widest-ever October budget deficit (more than all of 2006)
More Friday Follies, with the link also courtesy of GG: Bank failure toll reaches 123; Regulators close two Florida banks and on in California, costing the FDIC $986.4 million.
Gold will stay above $1,000 an ounce forever, says Swiss Dr. Doom. (Thanks to Laura H for the link.)
Items from The Economatrix:
Drop in US Energy Use Drags Stocks Lower
Jobless Claims Fall, But Hiring Gains Seem Far Off
Buffett, Gates Tell Students Worst is Behind Us. Gee, Happy Days are Here Again. Yeah, that’s what they were singing in 1930. But in fact, the economy didn’t fully recover until 1954. They say history doesn’t repeat, but it often rhymes.
Banks Borrow Less From Emergency Fed Fund
Federal Deficit Sets October Record of $176.48 Billion
Wal-Mart, Kohl’s: Holidays Could be Rough
Obama Announces US Jobs Forum with Business Leaders
Initial US Jobless Claims Fall to 10-Month Low
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Cheryl (aka The Economatrix) mentioned that Sun Tzu’s Art of War (Sonshi’s translation, not the Giles edition) free on-line. Be sure to check out the Strategy Course.
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I found this linked at The Drudge Report (a very good news aggregation page that I scan at least once a week): Asteroid passes just 8,700 miles from Earth – with only 15 hours warning
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Also from Drudge: Cuba orders extreme measures to cut energy use. An energy saving tip for Papa Fidel: You could save half a million watts, if you just pull the plug on the Schumer that spews forth from La Voz de la Propagandistas.
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Cheryl spotted this article: Survival School: Why More Americans Are Learning To Pick Locks, Bust Out Of Handcuffs, And Avoid Surveillance
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"The righteous cried [out], and the Lord heard, And delivered them out of all their troubles." – Psalm 34:17
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 25 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.)
Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.
Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.
Round 25 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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Fire Suppression for the Present, and for Post-TEOTWAWKI, by Keith H.
In the various TEOTWAWKI scenarios there will probably be no organized fire companies to help out the survivors with timely a fire suppression response. Here are some simple and low cost solutions that individuals can do to suppress and fight fires that are type A fires such as paper, cardboard, wood, cloth, plastics etc. Do not fight other fire types with water . Search engine “fire extinguisher types” to learn more. [JWR Adds: You should keep at least two 10+ pound A-B-C fire extinguishers in your home, for fighting grease, chemical, and electrical fires.]
In many homes there is currently water under pressure from some supply. This can be accessed for fire suppression by various means if one takes the time to plan and practically tie into it. One of those coiled snake type 25 foot or 50 foot ½ inch or ¾ inch diameter (preferred size) garden hoses can be attached to a Y splitter ball valve from the cold water line that feeds the washing machine. You turn it on by flipping on the ball valve spigot and uncoiling the hose to move throughout the home as needed to fight the fire.
A handy person could put such a hose line anywhere in the home that water can be plumbed into such as a main hallway closet or corner area of a room on any floor. I would recommend a quality brass 90 degree ball valve as the main shut off at the end of the hard line plumbing where the flexible garden hose is connected. This prevents those nasty slow leaks from the cheaper plastic or pot metal valves.
A good quality spray valve with various spray patterns works well on the business end of the coiled hose and can very effectively give either a strong stream or various short wider spray patterns. It is not the power or volume of a real fire hose but can work well if the fire is caught in time. The key to water fire fighting is a spray or mist to quickly lower the heat and wet potential fuels. Always have working smoke detectors throughout the home and practice fire drills regularly including both coordinated fire fighting and evacuating the home. If you and the family members can get some volunteer fire training now or study fire fighting techniques from books or online this will be a big benefit later in times of crisis.
You will also want a crook staff shaped metal tube sprayer with a long metal handle. They are normally purchased to water high-hanging planters. They can be bought or made from pipe with a bending jig. It can be used for those times that fire suppression (the Molotov cocktails threat?) is needed out a window against the side of the house while maintaining some protective cover from behind a wall inside.
With a well or pressurized tank system you can add extra storage capacity by plumbing in extra pressure tanks with other valve splitters and “no leak” metal mesh covered washer hoses. The tanks can be located anywhere in the home plumbing cold water lines. Just make sure they do not freeze. This gives an added benefit of keeping your pump from cycling too much with a small tank. In an off grid or grid down scenario hook up a potable Shurflo brand or similar 12 volt pump powered off of deep cycle batteries. They are available from farm or Do-It-Yourself stores. The water can be stored in 55 gallon or similar drums and then drafted out and used to pressurize the house system by back feeding a washer spigot. These pumps usually have a 30/50 lb on off type switch built into them like a regular 120/240 volt AC water pump.
The older water type fire extinguishers which are air charged are ideal to have but they are few and far between with the modern move to and versatility of dry powder. If you have an older fire extinguisher that has a metal valve base assembly and pressure gauge you may still be in business. Those small dial pressure gauges on the side generally have a 1/8 inch NPT port which they are threaded into. You can get older spent fire extinguishers (cottage industry job potential?) from a local fire extinguisher service company.
There is usually at least one of these businesses in an area. The fire codes call for many models to be rotated out of service on time intervals or discontinued due to changes in powder formulas and such. Make friends with the owner as I have done and you can probably get all you want as they usually have to pay to haul them away because it is not worth their time to dissemble them as various scrap types.
To convert them you first make sure they are completely empty. Sometimes they leak gas or air propellant and are still partially full of powder. Squeeze the handle in a safe area outside where you do not mind killing grass or weeds. The powder kills yards dead in concentrations. Avoid breathing it as it is a slight irritant. (A twenty pound dry extinguisher also puts out a white cloud bigger than three military AN M8 HC smoke grenades and is just as irritating, for future reference). If no propellant gas is inside you can carefully unscrew the small dial pressure gauge off the metal valve base with a set of slip joint or water pump pliers. This will reveal a small port hole that goes down into the main extinguisher tank. Get some 1/8 inch NPT / Schrader Tank valves from an auto parts store such as NAPA tank valve numbers NTH 90294 or NTH 90290 (about $2 each). It is a male 1/8 inch NPT and Schrader (automobile tire) valve on the other end.
The 1/8 inch NPT end of the valve can be screwed into the port hole with some pipe dope or Teflon pipe thread (be careful not to close over the end) and you now have a way to recharge the fire extinguisher. You can take an air hose and partially recharge the tank from an air compressor and use it till it is empty or safely trigger the sprayer to make sure all the powder is out. Then take a valve cap with core tool such as NAPA part NTH 90188 ($2.39) or a valve tool NAPA part NTH 90344 (about $2.22) and remove the core which will allow the water to be forced into the tank and the air to come out. Water can be forced back into the spray hose end. To fill it simply use a garden hose and duct tape or a hose to hose with a screw pipe band clamp or any other standardized coupling designs you may devise.
The tricky part is getting the right amount of water to air mixture in the tank. Most of the old water extinguishers had a mark on the side about ¾ way up the tank side to fill them to when you removed the top. They had the luxury of being designed with a total top removable valve assembly with a big gasket seal which allowed water to be poured into by sight and the valve assembly being resealed by hand or with slip joint or water pump pliers. The valves on powder extinguishers are not practical to fill this way.
This filling process will be a trial and error on your part with your specific size and style of extinguisher. The key is to weigh the extinguisher when empty and each time you fill it and charge it with an air compressor. Most air tank compressors fill to about 100 to 125 lbs pressure. You may have to fill and charge it a few times until you get the right amount of air and water so they both run out at the same time. You usually want a little extra air pressure when the water runs out to make sure the water is all delivered under pressure. Once you have the right water/air mix write the tank empty and full weights and air charge pressure on the side of the extinguisher in marker or stamped on a brass key tag attached to the pull pin chain. This weight method of filling is similar to what is used on 20 lb propane tank fills. Check it regularly with a high pressure hand tire gauge to make sure it is still charged properly.
It is also advisable to paint over or remove the old fire ratings on the extinguisher and visibly mark the extinguisher in some manner such as a big blue stripe or bold letters H2O or WATER on the side so someone does not grab it to use it on an electrical or grease fire.
If you are real handy and have the time you can always plumb in a room by room sprinkler system that is automated (lower fire premiums) or one that just takes a ball valve to turn on when fire is discovered.
Remember that if the fire is too big or smoke too thick it is not worth your life to fight for a house. A house is just a structure. Good and prepared people make it a home. Good luck and keep the faith.
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Letter Re: An Alternative to COSTCO for Storage Foods
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I have just ordered your preparedness course. I can’t wait for it to get here. I’ve been reading your blog for about a year now and it has changed the way that I look at everything. My husband is slowly getting on board with the preparedness thing, but he has a long way to go. Our house burned down over 2-1/2 years ago and we have been fighting the insurance company and contractors ever since. We still live in a trailer so I don’t have much space for storage. But, we have found many places to hide 5 gallon buckets of food and thousands of rounds of ammo.
My point to this e-mail is that I have a suggestion for an alternative to big box stores like COSTCO, etc. My husband is a commercial beekeeper and buys large quantities of granulated sugar to feed his bees in early spring and late fall when there is no honey flow. Stores like The Restaurant Depot are an amazing deal. If you have one in your area, membership is free. The only requirement is that you have proof that you are a business. It doesn’t matter what kind of business you are. This place is food storage heaven! 100 pound sacks of rice, beans, flour, corn meal, etc! It’s much cheaper than COSTCO! Plus other shoppers don’t look at you like your insane when you are buying enough rice and beans to feed an army. But we still have a good time messing with people in the store.
Thank you, Thank you , Thank you for writing this blog and “Patriots”! Although my family now thinks that my cheese has slipped off my cracker, I know that if the time comes, I will be able to provide for them.
Many thanks and prayers for you and your family, – Tricia H.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that suggestion. As I described in “Rawles Gets You Ready” family preparedness course, I have found that COSTCO, Sam’s Club, and similar “Big Box” stores are a great place to stock up on bulk food that you can re-package yourself. (Typically done with 5- or 6-gallon food grade HDPE buckets. Commercial vendors like the one that you mentioned are a great option, but their selection seems to be much smaller, and the condiments that they sell are in either ridiculously large or small containers. (Such as one gallon bottles of mayonnaise, relish, ketchup, and mustard, or itty-bitty single-serving packets) Another option that I mentioned in the preparedness course is ethnic food stores. You’ll often find the very best prices on rice there, and they do such a large volume of rice sale, that their inventory is usually very fresh.
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Seven Letters Re: How Can I Make and Store Dog Food?
Mr. Rawles,
My husband’s grandmother often told about her busy days during the depression, raising seven kids with almost nothing. At the end of her busy day, while cooking supper for her family, she had to make two or three pans of cornbread to feed her husband’s hunting dogs. The dogs were valuable because they helped her husband bring in rabbits and squirrel which sometimes were the only meat the family ate. I’ve always figured if I could no longer afford dog food, I would try Grandma’s cornbread solution. – S. in Indiana
Sir,
One way to feed your dogs is with vermin. Every rat you catch can be cooked and fed to the dogs. When you clean fish there are lots of leftovers such as the head and guts. All of this can be ground up in the sausage grinder and boiled. I had a big black dog who would dig up moles and swallow them whole. She would also run down rabbits. So the right dog can be somewhat self supporting, not to mention they can be a big part of helping in hunting game. A hungry dog won’t turn his nose up at much. – KJG
Hi!
I don’t have a dog and am kind of afraid of them so I have no experience with dog food but I wanted to encourage the writer to use coupons if they have time. I have four cats and a HUGE stockpile of cat food. Most of it I paid only tax for or $1 per bag + tax. To get head start this coupon is $3.50 off any Purina pet food. You can also call Purina they will send you coupons for dog food and maybe a coupon for a free dog treat bag that don’t expire for a while. One nice thing about PetSmart is there deals are all month long so you have time to order coupons from a clipping service. YMMV but our PetSmart accepts competitor’s coupons. So if you went to hotcouponworld.com (it’s not my site – I just find it so helpful) and printed the Target store coupons and then combined with them a manufacturers coupon with a sale you could get a great deal. (Store coupon + manufacturers is okay at many stores, you just can’t use two manufacturers for the same item.) You can get manufacturer coupons from a clipping service from a n Internet site or eBay instead of a Sunday paper.
Every store/area is different so me telling you about my grocery store pet food deals won’t help but once you learn how it works you can find the best deal for your furbabies. There are a lot of helpful people on that site who know their area stores could guide you through your first deals while you learned. I would encourage you to start out slow. See if you can find free dog treats first or a buy one get one free can of dog food.. that way you won’t waste money buying too much from a clipping service for a deal that doesn’t work out. Once you learn it’s easy..you will be giving dog food to the animal shelter. – Lisa E.
Jim,
In reference to your answer on home made dog food: My grandfather used to have corn and wheat ground up at a mill
and he always referenced additional meal ground up more coarsely for “Dog bread”. They used to actually add ground up bones and leftovers as available and bake it (mostly corn meal) as dog bread. I envisioned it as something like a dog biscuit. I later did some research and found that domestic dogs differ from wolves in three key aspects:
They bark at intruders. Wolves don’t bark.
They can digest grain and starches (wolves get sick)
and dogs like people.
If you look at the ingredients on cheap dog food, it sounds almost identical to my grandfather’s recipe. – Jon
Jim.
As to dog diets, I have already reverted, upgraded actually, to a post Schumer dog feeding program. I raise all of my own food for me and all of my animals including fish , rabbits, egg layers and meat chickens.. Here’s what my dogs eat on a daily basis (on most days):
Mornings
Rice with 2 sunny side up eggs fried in bacon grease and one banana or plantain mixed in.
About 1/8 of a teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of honey go in.
Evenings
My butcher friend gives me his meat scraps and I save all of my rabbit and chicken innards so in the evening they get this. I make my rice water from broth made from the carcasses. Bone marrow, brains etc is great for carnivores.
Rice, about 2 cups with about 2 cups of whatever meat I have for them. A handful of finely chopped green beans, a small handful of carrot and some type of root whether it be yucca, potato, sweet potato, malanga. It depends what we are eating that night. Instead of root it may be a portion of the many types of squashes that I grow. Do not forget to include a pinch of salt. I have fish out of my pond a couple of times a week and boil the carcass after I filet them. This slurry gets mixed with their rice, and a bit of milk, on those days.
My dogs will eat oranges and bananas out of my hand and those are their daily treats ! Mine too.
The vet says the blood work is superb and all is well. He has actually added some of my items to his personal hunting dogs diet. These are 100 lb American bulldogs. I’ll never buy the “poison in the bag” [commercial dog food] again. Peace, – Mr. Orchid in Costa Rica
Mr. Editor,
We have been cooking for our dogs (Weimaraners) since the dog food contamination scare a couple of years ago. While they no longer like ‘real’ dog food they do go back and forth easily.
We cook them pretty much what we eat but our basic receipt for them is rice with mixed veggies and meat. Any meat, hamburger, scraps from leaner cuts and chicken. Thighs and legs are very cheap and boiled supply broth to cook the rice in. They also like fried ‘taters and one of our dogs really likes carrots.
When we have a surplus of eggs in the summer we scramble lots of eggs for them with old bacon fat. They love this version of fried rice. Our bitch has puppies right now and is doing very well on this diet and the puppies are fat and happy.
I’ve enjoyed your blog very much as it reflects in many ways what my husband and I have always thought/planned. I will say it can be a tad depressing on occasion. – Jeanne G.
Hello James Wesley,
Back in the day when I went to stay with my Grandparents on the farm, they never bought dog food as far as I know. The dogs were fed what was left over from the “Mush” in the morning (Oatmeal), the bacon always got finished. In the evening the dogs got a mix of potatoes and carrots or corn with a little fat, broth, or gravy from our evening meal. I would caution you against too much protein and increase the starches, just read the ingredient list on the back of a dog food bag. It is lots of grain and veggies and a little protein. God Bless, – Bucko
Economics and Investing:
Ben M. mentioned a recent Wall Street Journal article: World Tries to Buck Up Dollar
B.B. sent us the link to a television segment with Peter Schiff, in which he suggested gold might rise to $5,000 per ounce. “There is not top [for gold], because there is no foreseeable bottom for the dollar.”
GG suggested this: China facing risk of debt-fueled crash
Items from The Economatrix:
Single US Banking Regulator Proposed
Financial Crisis Made in West Hits East Hardest
Dollar Falls to 15-Month Low Despite US Support
UK: BofE Government Dampens Recovery Outlook
NY State: We’ll Be Broke Before Christmas
US Airlines Expect Fewer Thanksgiving Travelers
Gold Rises Towards $1,120 on Strong Sentiment
Airlines, Hotels Face Bleak Holiday Season
Odds ‘n Sods:
Odds ‘n Sods:
Reader “Sharp Shepherd” highlighted this article: Rental Goats Clear Brush Better, Beat Cosmonauts in Space Race
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Bridget sent this, about the ever-encroaching Nanny State Britannia: Every phone call, email and internet click stored by ‘state spying’ databases
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The folks at Directive 21 (one of our advertisers) are having a special on Royal Berkey water purification systems. The regular price is $275, but for a limited time they are $262.50. The sale will end when their small on-hand stock of the filters runs out, so don’t hesitate. OBTW, because of state certification issues, none of the Berkey filter systems or replacement filters can be shipped to any California addresses after January 1st.
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
Nothing is more certain than that a general profligacy and corruption of manners make a people ripe for destruction. A good form of government may hold the rotten materials together for some time, but beyond a certain pitch, even the best constitution will be ineffectual, and slavery must ensue. – John Witherspoon, The Dominion of Providence Over the Passions of Men, 1776
Letter Re: How Can I Make and Store Dog Food?
James,
I read the blog regularly and have noticed people mentioning the value of having a large dog on a property–for protection, extra set of ears, etc. Having recently purchased a German Shepherd puppy and seeing the costs of dog food rising, plus the looming dangers of hyperinflation and disruptions of supply chains, I’m wondering if anyone out there can share the recipe for a nutritious food for a large breed puppy/dog–especially a food that can be made from common items and stored. Otherwise, when the storm hits I may have a great dog, and no suitable food for her. Probably many people out there are wondering the same thing. Thanks for all that you do to assist people like me. – Scott S. in Colorado
JWR Replies: Dog food–as we now know it–didn’t become popular until after World War II. Dogs didn’t starve before then, although their diets were not nearly as uniform as they are in the present day. In the old days dogs were just fed table scraps, butcher scraps, and the occasional excess milk and eggs (in judicious quantities, of course, to avoid making a dog vomit.) Most dogs can revert to this traditional diet, especially if the transition is made gradually, over the course of a couple of weeks. Here is an illustration: Two decades ago, The Memsahib and I temporarily foster-homed a “rescue” Great Dane that at first refused to any dog dog food unless it had fried beef livers mixed in with it. Transitioning that pampered pooch took more than a month. My first attempt at having it just going “cold turkey” was a failure, as the dog starved itself for three days. Bad idea! So then I decided to just gradually reduce the amount of beef liver that it got each day. By the third week, it was down to just a bit of beef liver juices. I simultaneously tapered its daily ration by 30%, to increase the dog’s appetite. Finally, after a month, the dog was on a pure diet of moistened dry dog food, and was soon back to a full ration.
There are are several recipes for “do it yourself” dog food on the Internet, but in my estimation, that is only a stopgap, for true preparedness. There is no way to store enough dog food for a couple of large dogs for an extended disaster situation unless you have a huge budget. And unless you live in a permafrost zone, this would also require a huge backup generator and a couple of chest freezers. That just isn’t practical for most of us. You really need to be ready to transition your dog to a traditional diet. This necessitates keeping a two month supply of your dog’s currently-used food on hand, to effect a diet transition. In warm climates, rancidity can be a problem, so if possible store two-thirds of this supply in a food grade plastic bag, in your freezer and rotate it, just as you do your other frozen foods.
Using the worst cuts left over from our from deer and elk butchering, (such as the strips from between ribs, and pieces from near the knee joint that are too sinewy to include in our elk-burger and Bambi-burger), I have made “dog jerky”. This is made just like any jerky for human consumption but with a bit less salty brine, and no fancy seasonings. As with our other jerky, it is dried in our old workhorse nine-tray Excalibur dehydrator. If you will be feeding a dog jerked dry meats that are lean (such as venison or rabbit), then don’t neglect adding essential fats and oils. You should do so only shortly before they are used. (Again, to minimize risk of rancidity.) OBTW, some of my dehydrator recommendations as well as some important notes on fats and oils are included in my “Rawles Gets You Ready” family preparedness course.
Most of our stored cooking oil here at the ranch is in the form of frozen olive oil, and a bit of coconut oil. We’ve never had problem with plastic oil bottles rupturing, when frozen. Most of our stored fats are in the form of butter, again, frozen in our chest freezer. But we plan to experiment with using some canned New Zealand butter, next year. (That is available from several SurvivalBlog advertisers, at a surprisingly affordable price, considering that it is shipped from the other side of the planet.)
When times get Schumeresque, I plan to transition our dogs to a diet of table scraps, dog jerky, and butcher scraps. This will be supplemented with small amounts of excess milk and eggs from the barnyard. Oh, and one word of warning: Never let a dog watch you break eggs and put them over its food. Dogs are intelligent! Crack the eggs, whisk them, and pour them over the dog’s food, while the dog is in another room. You do not want to train your doge to become an egg thief!