Letter Re: Observations on Hand-Powered Tools

Sir:
I’m 60-ish. My old man had a lot of projects using “recycled” lumber and nails, and you know who did the nail recycling. As an electrical engineer and general artificer, I would pass along some thoughts if I may.

I was involved in a demonstration at a Navy base in the 1980s where a bicycle was coupled to an alternator and sealed beam lamps were attached for a load. One would pedal the bicycle up to speed, and the MC would switch on a lamp. Then two. Then the third. Very few could maintain output for two lamps, and only a couple could maintain all three; they looked like SEAL types. The lamps used were 35-watt sealed beam headlights. 70 watts is a day’s work for even a healthy young man.

Not only do I have several braces, various sizes, with the appropriate “ship augers”, but also some “egg-beater” geared drills. I would tackle a hole in steel or aluminum with my teeth before trying it with a brace. Of course, in a desperate situation, you do what you gotta do.

The geared drill is for drilling metal. I have one that actually has two speeds. The crank slides in a slot, to engage different gear ratios. It and another, are what is known as “breast drills”. Instead of a handle at the top, there is a curved plate of some 8 square inches. In use, the operator presses down with his chest to provide pressure while cranking. With a properly sharpened drill, it will cut 1/4″ mild steel fairly quickly.

What is more important is that you know how to sharpen a drill by hand, and by eye. I still do on small and very large drills that won’t fit my “Drill Doctor”, which only goes down to 1/16th inch. There are about 35 sizes that are smaller than that. And, of course, a Drill Doctor only goes up to 1/2″. I also sharpen by hand my paddle and spade bits, Forstner, carbide impact drills, and so on…

Cold chisel work is essential to metal working. It is easier than power tools in some applications. Also, learn filing technique and how to protect a good file, and how to restore a dull one.

Now, the most important part: Know-How!

For general construction, I recommend the Navy SeaBee BU-3&2 manual, post WW-2 era. It is declassified and reprinted by Dover Publications. I keep 2 copies. One well worn for day to day usage and another nearly new for when WTSHTF. Actual Dover title is “Basic Construction Techniques for Houses and Small Buildings”, ISBN 048 620 2429

Also, the electrical equivalent, Navy EM-3&2 Manual. That is the definitive text on how to work with electrical equipment. Also from Dover, also two copies. Dover title “Basic Electricity”, ISBN 048 620 9733

For using hand metal working tools, the best I have seen is from the Henry Ford Trade School in the 30’s. I have an original, it is reprinted by Lindsay Publications. Look them up or go to www.hudsontelcom.com and find the link on the “stuff I like” page. Just look for the model engines.

Matter of fact, you might find some of my other stuff interesting. I have a number of projects where I have had to devise unconventional solutions to problems. Gets one to thinking, you know…

I still occasionally find Audel’s Books on eBay. They cover just about every thing and do it by hand. Just be sure to get older versions. I don’t trust much of anything printed after about 1964. Most of my Audel’s books date from the 40’s or earlier.

BTW, you don’t need all those measuring tools. A 3-4-5 triangle will give you a square, and almost all measurements are relative to something else. A string or stick and pencil will work just fine. Look up the “storey board” as used by the old time carpenters. I use a plumb bob, string, dividers, and a 3-4-5 when I want to play primitive. The square and the plumb will give you level. Anything else is a convenience.

And, probably just like your Pop, don’t even think of touching one of my saws. – Bill H.



Economics and Investing:

From reader J.D.: Rural America Surprisingly Prosperous, Study Finds

Reader Ben M. suggested this article: How to Tell if You are Saving Enough.

Items from The Economatrix:

Retailers Report Surprise Drop In November

Poor Report On Services Saps Stock Market Gains

Services Sector Activity, Retail Sales Disappoint

Weak Demand Puts Natural Gas Prices At 52-Week Low

North Koreans In Shock As Cash Banned

US Loses Another 169,000 Private Sector Jobs

UN Economists Fear Hard Landing For Dollar

Yen And Dollar Both Weaken

US Service Industries Unexpectedly Contract

Charting The Great World Trade Collapse

As Housing Goes, So Falls The Economy

European Banks Growing Bigger “Sowing The Seeds” Of Next Crisis

Dubai Debacle Just Tip Of Iceberg

More Evidence Gold Being Hoarded As Comex Fulfills Gold Contracts With Paper







Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 26 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 26 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Planning Ahead for Your Family Pets, by Margaret

Many of the very informative articles that have been written, talk about Getting Out Of Dodge (G.O.O.D.), plotting alternative routes, allowing for problems along the way, practising packing the vehicle and having fuel and supplies at en route stop-over points.

May I suggest that another plan that needs to be thought out ahead of time is for the family pets?

When people go away for the weekend or go on holidays, quite often a neighbour or family member comes in to feed and check up on the pets and this works out fine.
Alternatively an ice-cream container of dry food is left out for the cat or both the cat and dog go into boarding kennels. But when the Schumer occurs, these arrangements become null and void.

I’m sure animals have some form of ESP and changes can cause them to become either super-excited and uncooperative or they hide themselves away. Both possibilities will cause delays that no-one wants.
I no longer have a dog but the cats know that when their routine changes even slightly, “Something is Going to Happen.” And if you do decide that it’s time to G.O.O.D. it would be great to have reasonably calm and cooperative animals.

Some issues to address ahead of time:

  • Do your animals need medication from the vet when travelling? Do you have that medication?
  • Do you have restraints for the dog in a packed vehicle? There would be nothing worse than a vehicle full of gear and children with an excited dog bouncing off the roof. You will be stressed enough.
  • Do you have emergency food/water for your pets while travelling?
  • Have you practised packing with the cat carry-cages in place? No doubt there will be lots of last minute things from the house that get tossed into the vehicle, but please don’t make the carry-cages one of those. A cardboard box will not do.
  • How are you going to carry the gold-fish, the budgie and the guinea pigs? Are you going to take these pets with you? If you are, you will need to work out where and how their containers will fit into your vehicle. If not, I suggest that you decide now who will be given these creatures. It would be plain cruel to leave them to starve.
  • It may be possible to practise taking all of the family pets with you on your next visit to your retreat so that you can see how things work out and while you still have time to implement changes.
  • As cats in particular are territorial, you may need cat harnesses to walk them for the first week at your retreat until they realise that “This is the New Home”.

The suggestions above will probably need to be modified because every pet is different, but thinking ahead and having a plan will make your life and that of your pets less stressful in a worst case scenario.



Letter Re: Distilled Spirits for Barter

James:
First, thanks for the blog useful information is so hard to come by nowadays. With regards to alcohol I would add a few bits

First, Everclear 190 is a great addition it any backpack or bail out bag, This wonder bottle has a subject all its own. If for barter purpose you choose booze there is a bit of an OPSEC point to make. Trading liquor has risks especially if you are dealing with someone who may be looking for a lucrative target. Trading a sealed bottle of bourbon or even worse taking said bottle from a visible case can leave the impression of plenty which is simply dangerous in TEOTWAWKI. If you have liquor on hand to trade it will be important to disguise it so that you do not appear “rich” [in tangible goods]. Personally, I am not going to place a lot of faith in liquor jumping in value there are a lot of things I do use that I will need to stock up on (namely, the three Bs–Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids). But if I were to invest in liquor I would go with no more than a case of pints of a popular brand (Jack Daniels or Jim Beam come to mind) and when it came to trading I wouldn’t bring new sealed bottles, instead I would use a small amount out of one bottle (say for a cake or sauce) and use the now not quite full bottle to trade. So now I am trading something that looks like my last bottle.( This can apply to anything being used for trade.)

Appearing like you have little, but that little will be very is hard to take can mean the difference between having a robber problem or not. – Stephen from Idaho

JWR Replies: Thanks for those important barter OPSEC tips. As I’ve mentioned before in the blog, in addition to storing denatured alcohol for external use (and as a fuel), high grade medicinal ethyl alcohol (sans denaturants, such as Everclear) is important to keep on hand, for creating your own herbal infusions and decoctions. These are described in detail in the book The Complete Medicinal Herbal, by Penelope Ody. (This was one of the late Memsahib‘s favorite books.)





Economics and Investing:

A recent piece at the Dr. Housing Bubble blog: Shadow Inventory in 10 Prime Southern California Cities. How Pent up Inventory and Option ARMs are the new Front for the California Housing Market.

K.T. sent this from Dan Denninger: FDIC Deposit fund had negative $8.2B balance in Third Quarter

Jeff B. spotted this: More Evidence Gold is Being Hoarded as Comex Fulfills Gold Contracts with Paper

Items from The Economatrix:

Where Dubai Leads, Britain Could Soon Follow

Lloyds To Suffer Further Job Losses

Fears Of Credit Card Crisis As Bank Write-Offs Double

Peter Schiff: Bull Market in Gold or BS?

Warning on US Muni Market Threat

Britain Faces Return to Victorian Levels of Poverty



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader Brian S. noted that plastic drum liners look like a good way to re-use otherwise sketchy 55 gallon drums for at least storing washing water. Brian’s comment: “I’ve ordered other items from US Plastics before. It is a good place to buy in bulk.”

   o o o

From Cheryl: At Midnight Last Night (Dec 1st), The UK Ceased To Be A Sovereign State

   o o o

Frank B. sent us two clever bike trailer building articles at Instructables: Combined cart bike trailer and Shopping Cart Bike Trailer



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"You need only do three things in this country to avoid poverty: finish high school, marry before having a child, and marry after the age of 20. Only 8 percent of the families who do this are poor; 79 percent of those who fail to do this are poor." – William Galston



Notes from JWR:

Do you have any favorite quotes that relate to preparedness, survival, self-sufficiency, or hard money economics? If so, then please send them via e-mail, and I will likely post them as Quotes of the Day, if they haven’t been used before in SurvivalBlog. Please send only quotes that are properly attributed, and that you’ve checked for authenticity. Many Thanks!

Today we present another entry for Round 26 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 26 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



In Praise of Betadine, by A. Woofer

In 1940, Reserve Constable Albert Alexander scratched his face.  Accounts differ on whether this occurred while shaving, or an encounter with a rose bush.  In either case, the Constable had a minor scratch  which became infected. What makes Constable Alexander’s story notable, is that his was the first wound infection treated with the then-new antibiotic, penicillin.

It almost worked. 

When first treated, Constable Alexander improved dramatically, but the hand-purified supply of antibiotic available ran out before the infection was eliminated. The infection returned, and he died from the combined staph and strep infection of the wound.  Welcome to the reality of wound care without antibiotics.  A minor scratch can kill you.

With TEOTWAWKI, we would rapidly re-enter the pre-antibiotic era.    So what are we to do with the routine nicks and scratches, let alone, major wounds? The simple answer is that primary wound care, with an emphasis on preventing infection becomes paramount to avoiding the fate of Constable Alexander.  Non-antibiotic antiseptics – such as Betadine® — should be a part of your kit and routine practice. Note that Betadine® is the registered trademark of Purdue Products for their povidone-iodine products – I’ll use the term Betadine® in this article, but the discussion below applies to any 10% povidone-iodine solution.

First, get yourself some basic first-aid training.  I teach first-aid, CPR and Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and strongly suggest seeking out a WFA course as your basic first-aid training.  Standard “urban” first-aid assumes that your victim will have advanced medical care – a hospital – within an hour or so of an incident.  WFA assumes that advanced care is delayed – perhaps for days.  Providers of WFA training include Stonehearth Open Learning Opportunities (SOLO), National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), some chapters of the American Red Cross, and others.  A good basic course should have at least sixteen hours of instruction – this is not a one-afternoon class.

Second, get some reference materials for your bookshelf.  My favorite WFA references are NOLS Wilderness First Aid (NOLS Library), Wilderness Medicine, Beyond First Aid, by William Forgey, and Wilderness First Responder, by Buck Tilton.  These are not tiny “reminder” [or checklist] pamphlets for your kit, but serious texts to be read and practiced in advance of an injury.  Practice and drill in first-aid is as essential as in marksmanship.

Finally, lets look at primary wound care.  Where you start depends on the wound.  In the case of severe bleeding, you must first control the bleeding.  I won’t attempt to teach first-aid by typing, but applying a gauze or cloth to the wound to aid clotting, along with direct pressure, elevation and pressure-points are in order. If required, a tourniquet can control severe bleeding in an extremity.   Always pay attention to the ABC’s of life first: Airway, Breathing, and Circulation.

With bleeding controlled (and the rest of the ABCs addressed)  you need to pay attention to cleaning the wound and controlling infection.  If you don’t, as William Forgey points out in Wilderness Medicine,, Beyond First Aid, your patient will still die from infection, but it will take longer and be more painful than bleeding to death.  And remember, cleaning and caring for a wound applies to any wound, not just severe ones.  The good Constable died from an infected scratch!

Cleaning minor wounds:  Simple scratches and minor, shallow cuts can be simply cleaned with soap and water followed by a daub of Betadine®.  Do this as soon as possible after the injury.  If you are away from soap and water, at least apply the Betadine®, and let it dry on the wound.  I’ve used this simple treatment in my home for nearly twenty years and avoided the need for follow-up antibiotic ointment, let alone oral antibiotics.

Larger wounds and abrasions:  The best technique for deep or heavily contaminated wounds is take a hint from hospital ERs, and use irrigation.  You probably won’t have sterile saline handy, but a dilute 1:10 solution of Betadine® in clean drinking water serves quite well – you’ll need at least a quart for most wounds. The best irrigation device is a simple no-needle syringe.  In my pocket first-aid kit, I carry a 10cc oral medication syringe (available at any drug store).  In my larger first-aid kits, I carry a 90 cc “flavor injector” plastic syringe (from Bed, Bath and Beyond).  In a pinch, a plastic bag with a pinhole will do. 

Flush the easily removed dirt and blood from the wound, inspecting closely for particles of embedded debris.  If there had been severe bleeding, gently remove the clotted dressing with irrigation, being ready to staunch bleeding again. Using tweezers or a gauze pad, remove embedded bits of dirt and flush again.   Using a sharp, sterile blade or scissors, trim  and remove disconnected strips of dead flesh – they’ll only serve as a focus for infection.   Repeat the process of irrigation, inspection and irrigation until the wound is clean.  Gently scrub with the gauze pad if you have to, always toward the outside of the wound.  Did I mention that this would hurt, a lot?

If the wound is completely clean, you can consider closing it, but you increase the risk of serious infection if you do.  I’ve closed wounds in the field without infection, but they have been “clean” uncomplicated wounds.  I’d recommend 3M Steri-Strips for closing uncomplicated wounds, unless you’ve have the materials and practice needed for suturing.  This is also the time to use some of your limited stock of antibiotic ointment on a sterile dressing (or dampen the dressing with diluted Betadine®.  Infection in a closed wound is a major problem.

If you are unsure if the wound is clean, then pack it open with non-stick sterile dressings dampened with diluted Betadine® and let it heal “open”.  Yes, the scar will be nasty, but that is cosmetic, not functional, and you reduce the risk of  an infected, abscessed wound.  Change the dressing twice daily, and if signs of infection arise (the wound is hot, reddened,  tender, swollen, oozes foul pus, or a fever is present), then irrigate again, and apply antibiotic ointment to the dressing.

If you know the wound is still contaminated, then pack the wound with gauze dampened with the diluted Betadine® solution, and let it partially dry before removing.  Clotted blood, some of the dirt and dead skin will lift off with the gauze (again, this will hurt).  Irrigate the wound, and repeat the wet-to-dry dressing process until the wound is clean, then pack open as above, monitoring for an infection.

A hint for monitoring infection:  A normally healing wound is often red, slightly swollen and a little tender, so how do you tell when you have a serious infection?  Starting with the first dressing change, gently mark the margin of the red/swollen area with a pen.  If the area is getting larger the next day, then you likely are dealing with infection and need to consider irrigation and antibiotics, if available.  Even severely infected wounds can heal, so be sure to treat the whole patient, not just the wound:  sufficient fluid intake and easily digested foods are important during long term care.

So, why Betadine?

  1. It kills everything.  Viruses, gram negative and gram positive bacteria, fungi and even protozoa.  Even iodine-resistant organisms such as cryptosporidium go down with enough contact time.
  2. It is versatile:   You can use is as a surgical skin prep, a simple topical antiseptic for scratches and abrasions, diluted as an irrigation solution for severe wounds,  a dental irrigant following tooth extraction, and even as a water purification agent for lake or stream water (8 drops per quart of clear water, with a contact time of 30 minutes at room temperature).
  3. It stores well, unlike most antibiotics.  The manufacture’s published shelf-life is three years at room temperature: in practice, Betadine lasts much longer. The bottle in my medicine cabinet “expired” in 2007, but it is still effective. So long as free iodine is released, the antiseptic qualities of Betadine® remain.  This is easily tested by mixing a drop or two of Betadine with a paste of flour and water:  if the mixture turns deep purple or blue-black, then free iodine is present, and the Betadine® is still effective as an antiseptic.
  4. It is cheap.  A gallon of Betadine® sells on-line for less than $50, and an 8 oz bottle for about $5.  Unless you plan to do daily surgeries at home, skip the gallon bottles and buy multiple small bottles that can be unsealed one at a time – this will reduce the chances of contamination and potentially increase shelf life.   The hard to find  one-ounce bottles are great for pocket kits.
  5. It is safe.  Allergic reactions to iodine or Betadine® are rare, and typically no worse than a minor skin rash.  The irritant effects can be avoided by ensuring that Betadine doesn’t dry on tender skin, especially in skin folds such as the inside of the thigh or elbow. 

Disclaimer:  The author is not a physician.  He is an avid outdoorsman and wilderness first aid instructor.



Three Letters Re: Securing Bedroom Doors Against Home Invaders

JWR,
Blessings on you and your ministry. Regarding securing bedroom doors and walls article: For new construction, it would be acceptable to place a 1/8 inch 4′ by 8′ [plywood] panel behind the drywall. Paneling is built with two or three plys, like plywood. A wall so constructed would be only 1/8 inch thicker, but considerably stronger, and would slow down any intruder. Of course, even this would not stop a bullet. – Jim P. in Texas.

James Wesley;
I read the recent blurb on securing interior rooms, something I have been working on for a while. Seems to me the easiest way is to install exterior grade steel doors with steel frames to take care of the bedroom doors. As for the ease of breaking through drywall, the fix is to use 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood on the inside areas of bedrooms that backs hallways and other areas that would be accessible to intruders once inside. In my 2,400 square foot home I have less than 30 linier feet of walls to cover to “harden” bedroom areas against adjoining “non-bedroom” living spaces. That comes to only needing eight 4×8 foot plywood sheets. Once these are screwed to the studs, it would take quite a bit of time and effort to breach these.

I am also considering installing a trap door in each bedroom that leads to the crawl space under the house so we can exit with weapons when needed. Trapdoor would be hidden under a small area rug with rug attached to door so when it is used and then closed, there is no evidence of the trap door. I love the wide variety of ideas your readers share. Regards, – Marc N. in Alabama

Mr. Rawles,
The recent letter about securing bedroom doors was of interest,Since I had the experience of having armed, drunken intruders in my bedroom. That leaves a lasting impression. Ask a guy who knows!

In my opinion a bedroom door should be constructed like an [exterior] entry door. It is the last layer in a layered defense. For a balance between cost and security, I recommend a commercial steel door and frame, of the type commonly seen on the side walls of box stores, movie theatres, etc. (these doors are available with armor steel lining but the cost is very high- we are talking here of a standard 16 gauge door.) A door and frame, new, will run roughly $500. I suspect they are available much cheaper on the used architectural salvage market. Get one bored for a lockset and deadbolt., and a double deadbolt bore (two deadbolts) would be even better. Make sure both sides of the door stamping are welded together at the lockset and deadbolt areas. The supplier should be able to do this work. Usually they will come cut for three heavy duty hinges-use a top grade hinge and commercial deadbolt. A flat faced door is easiest to modify for appearance, anything from paint, to a solid wood veneer can be applied. They do come with a pressed panel look also. This door will not be a box store item, look for an architectural supply house.

To add resistance, get a double rabbeted jamb and install a security screen door on the outside- this can be locked to prevent access to the main door and also serve as bedroom ventilation in hot climates without totally sacrificing security.

In regard to the poster’s query, I would recommend changing the double doors for a large single door. It is much harder to secure a set of double doors, as the one anchors to the other– to make it really secure, the first door will be anchored to the floor and top jamb, and be such a hassle to use it will never be opened anyway. Have the opening framed in for a 36″ or 42″ single door, this gives an opportunity to do the reinforcement of the framing at the same time. Block in between the studs with 3/4″ plywood, glue and screw down the plates (bottom framing member) to the floor.

Framing and contractors: Obviously the door is no more secure than the wall itself- some dry wall may have to be removed and plywood attached to strengthen it. Think about this- what you are trying to accomplish is two things, to prevent the door from being compromised by having it pushed out of position- either by having the jamb pried away from the door far enough to allow the deadbolt to release, or by having the stud the steel frame surrounds, pop or slip where it is attached to the rest of the framing. Plywood stiffeners between the studs will help with spreading, and making sure the framing components are screwed together will help to make sure it does not come apart. Some places may need a bolted in angle iron or similar to reinforce. Also make sure the hollow metal door jamb has wood blocking that backs up to the deadbolt pocket-no good having a solid door and framing if the jamb can be bent back far enough to pop the deadbolt free.

Most contractors are going to be thinking in standard house terms. So instead, find one who will get the hint. This is probably someone who has worked on high end homes and custom jobs)–you want a door/jamb/frame assembly that will withstand a sledgehammer or a battering ram. It should buy at least a few minutes of time under attack- time to arm up, call the police, position yourself, and so forth. And as a side note-consider the access to the door-if it is tough to swing a sledge or use a ram, so much the better. Five minutes does not sound like a long time – compared to the mere seconds a standard door will resist attack, it is an eternity.

Where the door is placed has a major effect on it’s strength, and method of reinforcement. Some doors may be at wall junctions, head of stairs, etc where there is a lot of internal framing, and there may be no easy access through an adjacent wall. The worst would be a door in the middle of a flat wall, with no interior cabinetry- in such a case, Mr. Rawles pointed out, the wall can be easily breached through the drywall. In any such case, it may be easiest to attach 3/4″ plywood over the existing drywall, then attach another layer of drywall or finish material over the plywood.

There should be no “drywall only” walls within arm’s reach of a door knob! It is too easy to punch through the drywall and unlock the door.

Consider a small camera to cover the door, so you can see, from the inside , what is going on. And figure out what is next- the door will buy you time to wake up, and prepare-think about how you will use the layout of your space to best defend it.

Also consider a “cage and door ” type arrangement at the top of the stairs, made of openwork wrought iron or similar. This is common in some countries.

Last but not least, make sure that you have a way to get out in an emergency. A house fire is one of the more likely “survival ” scenarios! [JWR Adds: Yes, and far more more likely than a home invasion.]

My condolences on the parting from your wife-may you be reunited in everlasting peace by our Infinite Creator.
With Great Regard, – E.C.

JWR Replies: I concur that “plywood, glue and power screws” are your friends when your goal is delaying home invaders. I must mention that I have had some consulting clients that took layered defense to extremes. For instance, one of them that lives in Central America had a house custom-built with the bedrooms located over a combination vault-basement. Not only didhe beef up the bedroom door, but the bedroom closets were reinforced to good “panic room” specifications, using two thicknesses of marine plywood on five sides, and steel exterior doors with three door deadbolts at the top, middle, and bottom. Both of these closets have trap doors and ladders to the basement. Imagine the frustration of would-be kidnappers to batter down multiple layers of plywood defense, only to face a blank steel plate trapdoor surrounded by concrete!



Letter Re: Another COMSEC Warning on Social Networking Web Services

Jim,
I worked in Network Security in both the military and civilian sectors for quite a few years. The thing I would recommend is not to use any social networking site. Due to the terrible security embedded in the new web programming technology they are rampant with malicious software that can be downloaded to your computer.

Your computer would then be owned by some goon who would use it to attack others and steal your personal info, such as your bank account number, and so forth. But you say, hey I have the newest router, firewall and anti-virus. The companies that make these products are fighting a losing battle because they can only react to what the bad guys build and they have to wait for an attack to fix it and then get it to all their customers. The president of Symantec actually came out and publicly said it was "a lost cause" at a conference a year or two ago. V/R, – Don