Letter Re: Just In Time Consumers

James Wesley,  
Thank you for all that you do and the wonderful, informative web site.  I have been active for about a year and am working on my introduction and first contribution to Survival Blog.  Ironically I have basically been employed all of my life in one of the industries, consumer package goods, which is one of the key industries so tied to technology that if TEOTWAWKI hits would be significantly impacted. 

Earlier today I came across an article in The Wall Street Journal which emphasizes the needs for preppers to be more prepared and to also know what your neighbors are doing or are not doing: The Just-in-Time Consumer. As we prepare for the worst of the worst in coming economic collapse many of our neighbors are now purchasing food and household supplies “just in time” (JIT) much like inventory is managed at your local retailer.  More and more of our neighbors will have less and less reserves in their pantries just when they need them the most.  This is a startling trend that I wanted to bring to everyone’s attention.   

I sincerely appreciate your web site and have learned a great deal from it in the last year.  I also have enjoyed your books “Patriots” and “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It” and look forward to future releases.  Regards, – S.A.A. Joe



Letter Re: Advice on AK, SKS, and Mosin Rifles

Mr Rawles,  
I’ve read through your section on firearms and have a question about the rifles.   As I’m very much on a budget, I am looking to add one or two self defense rifles for the TEOTWAWKI type scenario.  I’ve been looking into the AR rifles and find that they are ungodly expensive.  I’ve found some Bushmasters that seem to be in good shape for around $800, but these were chambered in .223, which seems like a fine personal defense caliber, but is not versatile enough to use to kill game, should you have the opportunity.  The .308 chambered rifles seem like much more versatile, but are quite expensive.

This leads me back to the “Russian” chambering.  I’ve looked into the AKs and have learned that they are reputed to be tough, reliable guns, but they are not known for high accuracy.  While investigating those, I’ve become rather attracted to the SKS rifles for some time for several reasons.  First, they are reputed to be reliable like the AKs, shoot the same 7.62×39 round, and are more accurate (especially the Yugos).  The rounds have about the same ballistics as a .30-30, indisputably enough power for two-legged varmints and enough for deer as well.  

I could purchase at least two—possibly three—SKS  rifles for the price of one .308 AR-10.  I’m thinking I’d like to make sure my wife and I both have identical rifles (as you say: “if you have two, you have one, if you have one, you have none”) to defend the family with.   What really is causing some kinks in my plans is ammunition.  I’ve found that .308 and .223 rounds are more expensive than 7.62×39 rounds.  As you said, having a gun is really useless if you can’t shoot them often and really get good with them.  I can buy nearly 500 hundred rounds of 7.62×39 for about the price of 100 rounds of .308 Winchester.  So I could afford to stockpile a few thousand 7.62 rounds, while I couldn’t do the same with the .308 or .223 rounds.  

So what is your honest opinion of the Russian rifles?  Would they make an acceptable “low-budget” rifle?  Or are there problems I’m unaware of that would make it a poor choice?   And while we’re talking Russian rifles, I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Mosin-Nagants.  I’ve got an M44 that I love, and I’d like to buy another 91-30 with a full length barrel.  They are very powerful. (More powerful than a .30-06) but again, 440 rounds of ball can be purchased for under $90, and hollow points can be bought [more expensively] for hunting.  I rather like these as general purpose hunting/defense/sniper rifles, except of course that they only carry 5 rounds.  What do you think of Mosins being kept as a hunting/defense combination rifle?   Thank you,   – Curtis R.

JWR Replies: I’m definitely a proponent of 7.62×39 SKS rifles for anyone that is on a modest budget, and 7.62x54r Mosin-Nagant rifles for anyone on a truly tight budget. They would also be my top choice for anyone–regardless of budget–who resides in Finland or for anyone else living in or on the periphery of the former Soviet Union.

As far as Mosins go, I prefer the Finnish Model 39. They have excellent sights, and their 27″ barrels are a good compromise length between that of the M44 carbine (20.5″ — too short!) and the M91 long rifle (31.5″ — too long!) One other advantage of the M39 is that there are still decent quantities of these rifle available that were arsenal rebuilds using early (pre-1899) hexagonal receivers. These have the advantages that I outline in my Pre-1899 Antique Guns FAQ. Note that the dates marked on the barrel are not the receiver build dates. (The receiver dates are stamped on the tangs, and unfortunately you have to disassemble the guns to see those markings.)



Letter Re: Walking Sticks for Self Defense

Dear Editor:
That sidearm on your hip may have a lot of admirable qualities, but so long as rule of law is still in effect here in the US, there are some places you simply can’t take it. On a plane, for example, or into a Post Office (which is where folks tend to “go postal”).

Further, even if you are armed, there still could be a problem with an attacker who is relatively close. Several sources assert that, at 21 feet an armed, fast-moving attacker could close the gap and fatally assault you with a knife, sword, or blunt instrument before you could deploy your holstered pistol.

But what if you could have a lethal self-defense weapon in your hands at all times, carry it anywhere, and no one would so much as raise an eyebrow? You can. The humble cane or walking stick will suit your purposes just fine.

A cane extends your reach to keep an attacker at well more than arm’s length. It’s always at hand; there is no delay in bringing it into action. A cane can trip, entangle limbs, strangle, poke, abrade, break and crush. It can also block and parry strikes from an opponent. Like a Star Trek phaser, a cane’s power is adjustable from a warning tap to bone-breaking force to a lethal blow.

The simple physics of a cane multiplies your force. Swing a cane and its middle travels faster than your hand, and the tip of the cane travels faster still. Scott Rorebeck, who wrote two excellent articles on “The Dark Side of the Stick” for The Backwoodsman magazine (March/April 2003 and May/June 2004) recounts how he saw a deer that had its legs broken by an encounter with a car. He dispatched instantly with a single blow from a walking stick. Even a brush from the speeding tip of a cane can rip open skin or tear a jugular vein.

I walk frequently with a cane or walking stick and have never been questioned or prevented from bringing it anywhere.

For some quick lessons on what to do, check out The “Walking Stick” Method of Self Defense, by H.G. Lang and Bartitsu.org. Also, do a web search on “stick fighting.” Regards, – J.E.

JWR Adds: Readers may find that my 2006 SurvivalBlog article on Canes, Walking Sticks, and Umbrellas for Street Self Defense has some useful tips, legal provisos, and links.



Letter Re: Cooking Beans and Canning Meat

Dear Mr. Rawles:  
In response to Marie H.’s essay on canning beans and meat, I’d like to add a few thoughts.  

The ability to preserve food through water-bath and pressure canning is, in my opinion, one of the most important of the domestic arts survival skills there is.  But as every experienced canner knows, the Achilles heel of canning is maintaining a supply of lids.  The problem with the everyday canning lids you find at the grocery store is that they must be discarded after every use.  Oh sure, I’ve experimented with reusing lids with some success, but the fact remains disposable lids are meant to be disposable.  

This means canners must stock up on as many lids as possible prior to a Schumer situation.  Lehman’s sells bulk lids, for example, or you can do as I did for many years and pick up a box or two of lids every time you go to the grocery store in a pathetic attempt to store up as many as possible.  

But no matter how may boxes you have stored away, you will eventually run out of lids.  Therefore I would like to introduce your readers to the best-kept secret in the canning world: Tattler brand Reusable Canning Lids.  

Yes, reusable.  Unlike disposable Kerr or Ball lids, Tattler lids can be reused indefinitely.  The lids are in two parts: the plastic lid which has a lifetime guarantee, and the rubber gasket which can be used about twenty times.  The gaskets are cheap and I recommend stocking up.   I ordered some Tattler lids last summer and put them through their paces, and came away so impressed that I’ve been an outspoken proponent ever since.  Tattler lids use a slightly different technique than disposable lids but the instructions in the accompanying literature are clear, and once I got the hang of things I’ve never had a lid fail.   Needless to say Tattler lids are more expensive than disposable, but only if looked at in the short term.  But in the long term, you never need to buy lids again.  If you’re an avid canner as I am, this can mean significant savings – and peace of mind.  I saved my pennies and purchased 1.000 lids (500 wide-mouth, 500 narrow-mouth) and I can’t even begin to describe the sense of satisfaction that large box of lids gives me.  

I have an illustrated review of the reusable lids on my blog if anyone is interested.  This is a superior product that, frankly, could save a lot of lives someday.  In my opinion, no one who takes preparedness seriously should be without a pressure canner, a thousand canning jars, and a thousand [reusable] lids among their survival supplies.   Thank you, – Patrice Lewis, Editor of the Rural Revolution blog



Economics and Investing:

G.G. recommended: The road to a US insolvency crisis

F.J. liked this piece by Simon Black: Disappearing Bank Accounts. The article begins: “If you don’t have money outside the computerized banking system, you should do so now. You just never know when the system is going to go down.”

Randy F. suggested this book review: The Penniless Billionaires: A Tour of Inflationary Eras Past and Present

Items from The Economatrix:

Cutoff of Jobless Aid Would Lower Economic Growth  

Happy Holidays?  28 Hard Questions It Would Be Great If We Could Get Some Real Answers To  

The Gold Standard Never Dies  

Why Eric Sprott Sees Silver as the Next Big Investing Windfall  



Odds ‘n Sods:

Eric J. sent us the link to this fascinating article: Iowa’s hardest years: Stories from the farms during the Great Depression

   o o o

For anyone that missed hearing it live, here is the link to the podcast of my recent two hour Q&A interview on the EMPact America show.

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Steve K. sent this video: Nigel Farage (United Kingdom Independence Party President), Representative Member of the European Union speaks about Turkey’s admission to the European Union. Steve’s comment: “Sounds like our immigration policy here in the United States. Listen to the results that are anticipated.”

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Video shows heavily armed men storming RBC Bank. Perhaps they saw the movie Heat.

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US approval a step toward Russian company control of Wyoming uranium mines





Note from JWR:

Just 10 days left! The Rawles Gets Your Ready Family Preparedness Course is only rarely offered at a discounted price. Until Monday December 13th, the publisher is running a special sale. Don’t miss out on the chance to get a copy for yourself, or to give one as a Christmas gift.

Today we present another entry for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Cooking Beans and Canning Meat, by Marie H.

We have beans, perhaps hundreds of pounds of beans. How exactly am I going to eat these? Nutritionally beans are great. Logistically though, they are a tough sell for the average, inexperienced bean cookers.

For example Bernie has his big cast iron pot, some wood, and a bag of beans. After working all morning getting his camp fire set up, he pours his beans into the pot with water and maybe some salt, and waits, and waits. And stirs, feeds the fire, and waits. It has been four hours, the kids are looking hungry.

“Is it done yet?” they ask.

“No,” he says and sends them out to collect more fire wood.

Three more hours pass, the kids are back, looking pitiful, “Are they done yet?”

“No, but they are eatable, if you don’t mind somewhat hard beans.”

Desperate for food they eagerly get a bowl full. They taste like… hard beany dirt. all the grease from the pot, the dust and ash in the air and the soot from the fire mingling to create a new bean flavor.  Hey, at least it’s food. Tomorrow they can eat bean dirt again. Sigh.

Now, living without ice or refrigeration is a little tricky. You have to eat them all up pretty quickly because cooked beans can spoil at an alarming rate. Here is a clue, if you see any type of foam or bubbles in the beans, then do not eat them. If you think you have ever experienced intestinal gas before, this combination can produce the Mother of All gas and other, errr, issues that you really don’t want to deal with without indoor plumbing.

Another option is to cook a bunch of beans at a time in a pressure cooker. This makes them much better, softer, and quicker. The thing with a pressure cooker though is that it has to be watched. You cannot leave it alone, and should not even go into go another room while it is cooking, because you will most likely become distracted. It only takes minutes for it to go over the edge into the dangerous pressure area and then bam! 

So yes, you can make beans every day in a pressure cooker, but when supplies are short, you want to make sure you make enough to satisfy, but not too much to spoil. Remember, the tell tale bean-foam.  You will then become a slave of sorts to your pressure cooker on a daily basis. Sigh. At least it’s food.

Canning Beans:

Let me tell you, as an experienced farm mom and canner and bean lover the absolute best way: Canned beans. You can make seven sealed, preserved jars of very tender cooked beans in about an hour and have them ready to eat in smaller quantities as you want them and it is so easy. But perhaps even better than the convenience, you are not risking any spoilage and waste. Here is how to do it successfully:

First, get out a couple pounds of your favorite beans. (My favorite is Pinto beans). Soak them in some water for about an hour while you get your canner pot and jars washed.

You need to get a pressure canner. It is a large pressure cooker with a gauge on top. I have had several canners and my favorite brand is Presto. I like the way it latches, but everyone has his or her own preference. My canners can process seven-quart jars at one time. I like this size because it large enough to get a good sized batch processed but still small enough to manhandle. It takes just as long to process four quarts as seven, so you I figure that you might as well go for the gusto!

You will also need canning jars. I recommend the wide mouth quart sized jars because they are so much easier to clean. Those little necks on the regular jars require a bottlebrush to clean them. Why bother if you don’t need to.

You will need to make sure that your lids (the flat round parts) are in good condition, not dented or rusted and the rubber seal part is solid.  It really wouldn’t be a bad idea to stock up on the lids. You can buy them in rolls of 100 or so from various sources.

The rings that secure the lids to the jar are also important, but if they are a little worse for wear it is not as critical. This is because they never touch the food, and once the processing is complete the flat lid will be fused to the jar and you can remove the rings entirely.

One of the amazing things about using a pressure canner is that even though the pot is huge, once it gets up to the right internal temperature to be able to read 10 pounds of pressure, it just takes a tiny amount of heat to keep it steady.

So now your beans are soaked, you have your jars, lids and rings. Rinse the nasty water off the beans and spoon them into the quart jars, up to about ½ full. Then add one-teaspoon salt and any other spice you may want to add to each jar of beans. Then add water to the jars so that the water level reached the bottom of the threaded area.

Wipe the top edge of the jar with a clean cloth and run your finger around the rim to make sure it is perfectly smooth without any chips or food particles to break the seal. Once you are satisfied, then put on the lid and ring, twisted on snugly.

Place the jars into your pressure canner and then add water to the canner so that it covers the top of the jars by at least ¼”. Lock on the lid of the canner, and put it on your camping stove, wood stove, or whatever you are using to heat it. Now is the important part. Watch the pot. Stay in the room. The first time you use one of these it can be a little intimidating. The pot will start to hiss and sputter and make all kinds of gurgling noises. Don’t panic, this is normal. Just watch the gauge.

Once it reaches 10 pounds of pressure on the gauge, lower the flame until it is barely lit and set your timer for 60 minutes. As I said, watch the pot. You may need to adjust the flame a little up or down slightly during the hour, but your main concern is that it does not build up a lot of pressure.

Older canners can explode if they build up too much pressure (note to self, this is very, very bad). Make sure your canner has a pressure release system. Mine has little black rubber stoppers in the lid about ½” in diameter. If the pressure builds up too dangerously, these stoppers will fly out and all the liquid in the pot, mostly converted to seam, will come shooting out. You do not want this to happen, so avoid the temptation to leave the room, please.

With that warning being said, canning is really not a stressful procedure. Once your 60 minutes is complete you can A) turn off the flame, leave the room and wait it out because as the pot cools, the pressure will gradually go down so that the pot will unlock and you can retrieve your jars. Or B) you can find a safe way to quickly remove the pressure. My canners have a little weighted cap that sits over a stem that can be removed with tongs.

Remove your jars, let them cool, and enjoy. Once they are cool, they lids should be set, “sucked into the jars.” If they pop when you push your finger on the center of the lid, something did not go right. Eat that jar immediately. The rest of the jars have successfully been preserved. They will remain fresh in the jars for a long time. I don’t know exactly how long because we have always eaten them before six months is up.

Canning Meat

Now that you are able to can beans, there is one more thing you really need to do: Can your own meat. It is really terribly easy.

There you are, you have used your gun to shoot a deer, and if it is anything but the dead of winter in a colder climate you risk losing your meat if not eaten or preserved quickly.

The easiest way without refrigeration is canning. Cut the raw meat off the bones and put into the quart jars. It doesn’t matter how big or small the pieces are. You don’t need to be an expert butcher. Just cut it off the bone. Make sure there is no hair on the meat, if you see any wash it off. Pack it into the jar, add one teaspoon of salt and then add water to the jar up to the threaded neck. If you see air bubbles in the jar, just run a knife inside to it and it will pop and fill up with water. 

Process just like you did with the beans, the only exception being that once the pressure reached 10 pounds you set your timer for 90 minutes. The meat will cook in the jars. It cooks really well do. Falling apart tender meat. It is ready to eat as is, or pour on some barbeque sauce, or make a stew, anything. And it does not go bad for a long time. Your family will really like this. Even people who say they do not like deer meat will eat this and enjoy it.

For a really wonderful meal, dump one jar of canned meat and one jar of canned beans into a pot and warm it up. It very is good.

My last suggestion is that you don’t wait until an emergency to try this. Do it now, while you can get used to it under relaxing circumstances. You will do well incorporating the foods you plan to eat in your survival menu now. Your body will be used to it, your family will be used to it, and it may just open up a whole new hobby in home canning for your family.



Letter Re: Thoughts on Long Term Storage Foods

James Wesley;
I have been following your blog for a little over a year and have always been one to stockpile items that I know we will use, having lived nearly all of my life (less four years of college and two years of my working life) in a rural location. You simply buy things in bulk, so you don’t need to run into town to get that one thing. Growing up Mom always kept a full pantry (and still does though the kids are all grown and married and live elsewhere), a root cellar, etc. We have continued that for ourselves. This time of year, many grocery stores sell nuts in the shell. They are perfectly protected by the shell, so the oils in them do not go rancid, as do shelled nuts. Any shelled nuts I buy, are stored in my freezer till I use them. Nut in the shell are a great nutrition source as well and I thought it would be a good addition to food preps for your readers.

Keep up the good work. I am preparing to purchase the Rawles Gets Your Ready Family Preparedness Course during the current sale and taking an inventory of what preps we have and what we still need. There are advantages to living on your grandparents farm (purchased in the 1930s). There are many great things that are still here. Recently we cleaned out my grandparents home in a neighboring state, in preparation for it’s sale in the near future I was able to bring back a Coleman lantern and my grandmothers treadle sewing machine. Two things that could be very useful, when things get bad.

Thank you for all you do to share this information with others. I have shared you site with like minded friends and they have been thankful for it. – Kristi G.



Letter Re: As Simple as Changing a Tire

Jim:
I read with interest and nostalgia the post about flats. I grew up in an area of poorly maintained gravel roads,and hauling scrap metal for extra cash. Flats were a fact of life. Those days aren’t so far behind me as I recently learned. But thanks to the school of hard knocks I was prepared. So here’s a tip from a pro, carry a tire plugging kit plugging kit in your vehicle. Usually you will notice a tire going down long before it’s flat, and you can often plug it on the vehicle. Contrary to what most tire shops want you to believe,it’s not rocket science. The kit you want will have two tools in it with some plugs,(you want the T handles trust me) rubber cement is nice but optional. The first tool will be a reamer, this prepares the hole for the plug. The second tool is a really big needle, with a split eye (some have a closed eye,but I haven’t seen one of those in years).

Find the leak, nine times out of ten you’ve picked up a nail or screw, if that’s all it is you can plug it right there and go on your way. Take the needle from your kit first,and thread a plug into it. Now it’s time to ream out the hole, push the reamer into the tire, twisting left and right, till all the teeth are below the surface, and leave it there for now. Pick up the needle, if you have cement apply it, now whether or not you use cement light the plug on fire. When the whole plug is burning and bubbling goo (10-15 sec.) blow it out, yank the reamer from the tire, and replace it with the needle. Push the plug in slowly, till about 1/2 inch of plug is showing(you should have a pile of goo forming around it) twist the needle till it starts to pull the plug in, then yank it out very quickly. The plug should slip from the split eye of the needle and stay in the tire. Give the rubber a minute to cool down, then trim the plug as close to the tread as possible. As soon as possible air the tire back to the proper pressure. I have driven literally thousands of miles on tires plugged this way,that said, I do recommend that you go to a reliable tire shop and have it properly patched, because plugs do sometimes pull out. This is often as fast, and always less work than changing a tire, and if you’re away from home it will get you back without getting fleeced at strange tire store, or running a mini “doughnut ” spare (That is not safe ). If you have the money then Staun internal beadlocks might be a good investment for your bug out vehicle, you’ll learn more from a google search than I can tell here. – Disco



Letter Re: The .357 Magnum: An All-Around Survival Cartridge

Mr. Rawles,
I have been reading your blog for a couple of years now and it is something I look forward to every day. I have even persuaded my wife to open her mind and start preparing as a result of many of the articles on SurvivalBlog.  

Regarding the article on the .357 Magnum, I agree with most of what the writer had to say regarding the performance of the round. But there are a couple of  points I feel compelled to make.  

1) To take advantage of the ballistics he refers to in comparison to other cartridges (specifically, I refer to the comparison to the 10mm Auto), you absolutely must reload. I can’t remember the last time I saw .357 factory rounds in a 200 grain JHP. The most common bullet weights in [commercially-loaded] .357 are the 125 and 158 grain.  

2) That leads me to another point. Cartridge availability is not what it used to be for the .357 Magnum. I remember that the .357/.38 Special used to be touted as the ultimate survival round because it was the most common cartridge around next to the .22 LR. (There would always be plenty of it available) This I believe is no longer the case as most police departments have adopted semi-autos. A case in point would be that during the recent ammo shortage, I couldn’t find .357 Magnum anywhere but I was occasionally able to find .40 S&W at somewhat inflated prices. Even now after the acute shortage has supposedly ended, .357 Magnum is only available in limited quantities. (And at a healthy price, I might add). On the other hand, I’ve found that .38 Special was somewhat more available. Possibly due to the current fad of CCW “snubnose” revolvers.   I love the .357 Magnum. I own a Ruger GP-100 with a 6″ heavy barrel, and if as the old saying goes, I could only own one handgun, this would probably be it. But, that being said, while it will not do everything as well as some other guns/cartridges, it will continue to be an important part of my survival battery as well as my primary go to gun for the outdoors.   Keep up the good work.   Respectfully, – Ken S.



Letter Re: Limitations of Square Foot Gardening

Jim:
I too had a problem getting vermiculite here in Houston.  There was no way that I was going to pay that much in small bags for as much as I needed.  I then got a tip to look for it under insulation as used in new construction.  I found a local firm that sold it in very large bags for $7.50 each, cash.  My 10 bags totally filled up the back of my F-150 pickup truck.

You can get your materials from salvage.  My raised beds came from my fencing that was blown down by Hurricane Ike.  The size of my beds are 6′ by 3′ since the recovered fence boards were six feet long. The beds are 15 inches deep.

The time to start is now!  The near future may be too late.  Start small and build more as you get the experience and practice.  Square foot method is indeed a great start for putting your garden together.  The recipe in the book is great to use as your starting base.  Over the years you can add more compost, earthworms, and whatever to improve your soil.  Seed saving is your responsibility, just use the book as a resource and guide. – Ken L.

JWR Replies: I must add one proviso. Do not accept any offers of any “used” vermiculite insulation from buildings that are being torn down. Up until 1990, one of the nation’s largest vermiculite mines up in Montana produced countless tons of vermiculite that were contaminated by asbestos. That vermiculite from that mine was shipped all over the country.



Two Letters Re: Mushrooms: Surviving Survival Food

Dear Editor:
The submission by Roy H. on mushrooms bothers me on a survival skills level.   It bothers me because mushrooms are a poor source of calories.  Just 4 calories for the white button kind ranging up to 22 for Portabella mushrooms.  They’re mostly air and spores.  Yes, they have lots of vitamins in them – but I could spend all day foraging for mushrooms and end up expending more calories than I gain.  Let’s assume I find enough to pay me back for finding them, if they’re the white caps we’re familiar with and I spent 1 hour gathering them (hypothetically) then I expended somewhere between 200 and 300 calories finding them.  divide 300 by 4 and you’ll have to eat 75 of the things to make it worth your effort.  Given that most of the calories I burned were basal metabolism, it still gives so little return on effort to be useless in a survival situation.    Oh, and then there’s the whole “Will eating this thing kill me?” and if it wont kill me, will it make me throw up all the food I’ve eaten today and dehydrate me?  The risk, is too high.   I don’t care if you’re an expert or not, if you’re foraging for mushrooms you’re not looking for threats.   Mushrooms don’t grow on the plains, they grow in the shade (wooded areas) in general and your ability to scan for threats is directly limited by the terrain that mushrooms grow in.   Okay, so take a buddy to stand guard.  Now that’s two people that need their calories replaced.  

I’m being as candid as possible here because I consider it risky behavior for a survivalist.  Flavoring for our food occurs in so many other plants that the benefits of mushroom gathering for variety’s sake is negated.    I suppose it’s nice to know what mushrooms are poisonous, or not, but in any grid-down scenario it’s not worth the risk.  It puzzles me that the appearance of the mushroom article appears in a survival oriented web log.   The paragraph on eating mushrooms should be included with the paragraph on jumping off of cliffs, don’t do it.  Further, in any scenario where you are down to either eating mushrooms or starving, then I posit that if you know what mushrooms are good because you spent your time learning about them, then you have failed utterly at surviving.  The time you invested in finding and identifying edible mushrooms in your area could have been spent delivering pizza (nods to Dave Ramsey), taking the money you earned from that and buying a pail of hard red wheat.  I don’t study other useless topics, and I don’t consider learning about mushroom foraging as beneficial in a grid-down survival situation.  If I am just sitting around with nothing to do and want something productive to do, there are always plenty of tasks to expend energy on that don’t involve poisoning yourself.   There’s a reason you don’t ever see any of the pseudo-survivor reality television shows personalities eating mushrooms when they get dumped in the wilderness, the reason is that it’s a bad thing to show people to do and they didn’t want to risk getting ill themselves.   In his article he talks about stumping a mushroom expert with a photo and description of a mushroom, and this is supposed to instill confidence in us for eating them?    All that being said, mushrooms are cool and tasty – but not a survival food. – Jim in Colorado    

Hello,
There are a few points I’d like to make. I am an avid mushroom hunter and have been for years; but that doesn’t give me any more qualifications than still being obviously alive.

First I’d like to stress that I do not consider mushroom a valid survival-diet constituent. As the author said, many, many species will kill you or make you very ill, and even a benign bout of diarrhoea isn’t as benign when you are at risk of dehydration. In addition, it stinks more than regular feces and you won’t be able to bury it properly. All of this for “food” that, unlike what is stated, holds very little nutritional value: only water and some minerals. They would have an utility as flavoring, to avoid this appetite fatigue that has been mentioned several times recently, but that’s that.

The tips given to identify the edible species vary widely by location, but here are some I know from experience: Many boletes with red pores are edible, at least as many than those that aren’t. Several are extremely tasty, too. As for blueing, it has absolutely nothing to do with toxicity, and none of the most toxic species (here in Europe where none will bring anything more serious than strong bowel upset) blues at all. From my experience, none of the species that grow on acidic soil are really toxic, either. Soil composition and tree species growing around are the 2 main factors to find most species, since most grow in symbiosis with roots or on specific rotting wood.

Morels contain a substance that will destroy your red blood cells and are called hemolysins. They are destroyed over a certain temperature, so you are safe as long as you cook them thoroughly and for several minutes. Better know that if you’re on your first mushroom hunt and find any!

Most species have gills, and many are edible indeed without any sinister twin to fool you. Just dumping a whole group of species because they share one characteristic with the few deadly ones is a bit short-sighted, especially if you’re planning on relying on them for survival (you won’t, they’re barely “food”.) A spore print itself will give you very few clues about the species, apart from the fact that they did have a round cap and  gills arranged in a wheel pattern. Different species have white, beige, pinkish or brown spores and various colored gills, but the actual spore color will only show when the mushroom has reached maturity and may be rotting on its foot and crawling with worms. Even looking at the spores shape with your survival pocket field-microscope will only give you some more clues to narrow down your choice.

Even with limited knowledge, you will quickly be able to tell if you’re sure enough of your identification to eat your find. Getting an exhaustive guide and perusing it at leisure will quickly make you see which clue to look for, and which section of the book to search when you’re in the woods. I wholeheartedly agree with the advice given: “If you ever have any doubts whatsoever about the identify of the mushroom you’ve found, then don’t eat it.” I’d even go further and advise not to pick it up, and carefully wipe your hands after handling a specimen. From my experience, the common advice to go show your haul to a pharmacist holds very little utility: most of them don’t know mushrooms and will look it up in an old guide showing a couple of species and giving few indications about the botanical identification clues. Unless you are blessed with a professional who takes a personal interest in the matter, the only use in asking a pharmacist is that they may have some of the chemical substances used to find a particular component. Once again, it is only useful if you know what to search for beforehand. – Frenchy



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