Gluten Free Food Storage, by Cassandra R.

Everyone knows that storing wheat is a good idea.  However, those with various forms of gluten intolerance, and also others who benefit from gluten free diets currently, simply cannot go back to consuming gluten post-SHTF.  The effect could be devastating in the resulting society. 

If you have unlimited monetary resources, then prepping for storage of gluten free foods is not a problem, anyone can go to the store and purchase plenty of those expensive mixes they sell at the store.  But what if you don’t?  Or, worse yet, what if you run out of those expensive mixes in a long-term crunch?  Will you know how to make your food from scratch?  Will you be prepared?

While supplementing your storage with the gluten free mixes found at many stores is do able, we need a more practical system.  I will go over grains in a moment, but here are a few items you will need to store that are critical for any kind of bread making:

Xantham gum – as long as this item is kept dry, it has a shelf life of several years.  Be sure to get the finer powder, the courser xantham gum doesn’t seem to work as well.  Also, while I’m in the preliminary stages of learning gluten free ways, it seems that xantham gum is more suited to bread items like loaves and pizza dough.

Guar gum – this item is best suited to things like pastry creams, and less acidic items.  Guar gum begins to break down at higher temperatures, and also loses some of it’s thickening ability when added to recipes with high acidity.  Many recipes suggest combining both gums for a better result.  Manufacturers recommend that it keeps for 1-to-2 years.

Dehydrated Eggs – Widely found and I suggest you purchase the nitrogen-packed varieties.  Manufacturers claim a shelf life of 27+ years unopened.  Eggs, they claim, are good for 8-10 months after being opened.

Dehydrated Egg Whites – see above.

These are the binders in any gluten free equation.  They perform the task generally done by gluten.  Some people who are gluten free do not use xantham gum and guar gum, it’s a matter of finding recipes that work for you and your personal preferences (and dietary needs!).  I have found that the gluten free community is often more educated about food, and even sometimes scratch cooking, than the rest of society.  This knowledge will be invaluable in both your storage techniques and long term survival.  I have read some on the topic of substituting ground flax for the gums – this could be an even more long term option with the right research.  Obviously, the gums are not an entirely sustainable option, so I will be doing more research on sustainable substitutes for long term and once educated I will share the information.

Starches are equally important for gluten free baked goods.  Consider storing potato, tapioca and corn starches in air tight containers in a cool area.  Also, if you are accustomed to using the store bought gluten free dough enhancers, vinegar is a much cheaper alternative – and useful in countless other ways.

The grains:

White and Brown rice – both gluten free, and both can be ground into flour.  You can consume these prepared whole obviously, or used in a bread recipe.  Please note once ground into flour, the shelf life is drastically reduced, and best used quickly.  The flour of these grains can go rancid within a few months.

Beans – beans are a great item to store easily, and can also be ground into flour for various recipes.  An added bonus, bean flours keep relatively well at room temperature.

Oats – please be careful when purchasing oats.  Some gluten intolerant have issue with oats, and this is currently thought to be because oats and wheat are often processed in the same facility.  Know what facility your oats are coming from and what else the company processes.  Oat flour can also be widely used in recipes.

Corn – dehydrated corn kernels have a long shelf life, and can be ground into polenta, cornmeal, and used whole in a variety of ways.  I suggest buying organic corn personally, as much of the corn we see otherwise is a genetically modified version which is less nutritious,in my opinion.

Sorghum – this is an incredibly interesting and widely unknown cereal grain.  Sorghum grains can be boiled like rice, made into gruel or porridges, ground into flours, popped like popcorn (!!), it can even be used to make non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages.  Sorghum is also a very efficient, drought tolerant and even water logging tolerant crop.  This grain can also keep for years when appropriately stored.

Millet – it is suggested that millet can be kept for 8 to 12 years.  Can be mashed with potatoes (has valuable protein), can be made into cakes, toasted and boiled like rice and eaten warm or made into a salad, ground into flour and used in pancakes, bread etc.

Buckwheat – can be stored for 15 years.  Buckwheat can be prepared in a pilaf style, however, the grains (kasha is another name you will come across) often stick together and form a mush, to stop this from happening, either coat your grains with egg before preparing (cook in a dry pan briefly), or toast in a non-stick (read: well seasoned cast iron) pan for a couple minutes before.  The mush, however, is great for cereal/porridge, consider adding peanut butter for protein or spices and dried fruit.  You can also add buckwheat to soups or stews as you would barley, make a salad from the cooked buckwheat, or grind it into flour for breads, pancakes waffles, etc.

My recommendations here are just the beginning. Look around the Internet and you’ll find there’s numerous other grains, find the ones you like that can store well (quinoa for instance, does not keep for very long), and learn how to cook them.

A note on milling flours: If you plan on also milling wheat barley, or any other gluten present grain, it is advisable to have a separate gluten free mill.  The risk of contamination is high, even when thoroughly cleaned, and depending upon a persons individual reaction to gluten, someone could become very sick.

The most important storage preparation of all, of course, is to know how to use what you’ve stored!  There may be no Internet and no local library, WTSHTF so take some time to experiment with recipes until you have a few solid standbys.  Keep these with your food storage.  Having a couple bread, pancake, porridge, waffle, maybe even a muffin recipe, that is tried and tested, will be invaluable.

JWR Adds: Also see the SurvivalBlog archives for some other gluten-free alternatives, such as Quinoa. Just type the word “gluten” in the blog’s Search box at the top of the right-hand bar.

Letter Re: Got Worms?

James:
One thing that I’ve uncovered in my research is that while composting worms are fine if you simply want compost.  However, the red wrigglers commonly used for composting are not effective as a worm for your garden [beds].  Their primary problem is that they prefer the top 2 or 3 inches of soil.  As a result your soil is not fully aerated.

After a lot of searching I found a supplier that provided a mix of three worms types, each with different characteristics so that garden soil is serviced top to bottom.  We mixed several yards of mulch into our soil to help prepare it but we’re the only yard in the neighborhood with worms on the sidewalks after a rain.

The first year we bought eggs from one vendor who no longer offers the product. The next year we bought from these folks. Regards, – Sherman W. Montana

Economics and Investing:

Six minute of must-watch video with Dylan Ratigan: Jim Rogers warns: Get prepared!

Just I warned you, the 46 cash-strapped States are finding creative ways to raise revenue: Downloads and drugs taxed under new Rhode Island budget plan. (Thanks to John E. for the link.)

Fake Bars: “Federal investigators say tungsten filled gold bars and lead filled silver bars have started to circulate in the U.S.”  (Thanks to C.A. in Oregon for the link.)

A recent essay by Michael Pollaro: US government’s fiscal state worsens, DC politicians fiddle  

Items from The Economatrix:

“Greece on the Edge of a Precipice” as a “Lehman-like Avalanche” Could Be Set in Motion as Soon as Sunday

Greek Default Could Trigger Chain Reaction

Gold and Silver Still Great Investments in Inflation, Stagflation, and Deflation

Reader Mike S. sent this: New malware steals your Bitcoin. Mike warns: “There’s malware specifically targeting Windows Bitcoin users.  Mike warns: “Use encryption and strong passwords, and store your Bitcoin wallet in a non-standard place. Use Linux rather than Windows.” JWR Adds: Be sure to empty your Bitcoin wallet frequently and keep most of your wealth in barterable tangibles. Remember: Bitcoin is not a bank, it is just a transfer mechanism.

The Systemic Financial Pillaging of the Middle Class

Over at Stan Deyo’s site: Celente–Collapse:  It’s Coming!  Are you Ready? “Conditions are rapidly deteriorating and it is imperative to remain on high alert. Another violent financial episode is looming. It may be triggered by economics (e.g., debt defaults and debt crisis contagion in Europe, a crashing US dollar, or commodity price spikes); it could be terror (false flag or real), a man-made disaster (another Fukushima) or one made by Mother Nature … or any combination of the above.” 

This Is How The Dollar Dies

Odds ‘n Sods:

David N. recommended this: DIY Chlorine Generator for Water Purification

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For Washington state residents, John B. sent a link to this blog: Washington State Gun Lawyer.

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Pierre M. suggested this at The Genius Files: Guide: Protect Your Security Online and Mobile Phones. And, on a related note: Ten Effective Privacy Tricks To Secure Your Web Browsing

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Courtesy of Steven M.: 10 Most Secure Locations on the Planet.

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Chad S. sent a headline from Nanny State California: San Francisco Considers Ban on Goldfish as Pets to Prevent Their ‘Inhumane Suffering’

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Poll Gate: CNN Caught Red Handed Deceiving Public with Skewed GOP Poll. (Thanks to James C. for the link.)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Thus saith the LORD of hosts; If it be marvellous in the eyes of the remnant of this people in these days, should it also be marvellous in mine eyes? saith the LORD of hosts.

Thus saith the LORD of hosts; Behold, I will save my people from the east country, and from the west country;

And I will bring them, and they shall dwell in the midst of Jerusalem: and they shall be my people, and I will be their God, in truth and in righteousness.

Thus saith the LORD of hosts; Let your hands be strong, ye that hear in these days these words by the mouth of the prophets, which [were] in the day [that] the foundation of the house of the LORD of hosts was laid, that the temple might be built.

For before these days there was no hire for man, nor any hire for beast; neither [was there any] peace to him that went out or came in because of the affliction: for I set all men every one against his neighbour.

But now I [will] not [be] unto the residue of this people as in the former days, saith the LORD of hosts.

For the seed [shall be] prosperous; the vine shall give her fruit, and the ground shall give her increase, and the heavens shall give their dew; and I will cause the remnant of this people to possess all these [things].” – Zechariah 8:6-12 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 35 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 35 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Got Worms?, by Girl Raised in the South (GRITS)

I felt a sting of envy while admiring a neighbor’s tomato and pepper plants. They were lush and heavy with fruit, bursting out of their containers, while the straggly things in my garden struggled to produce an occasional ping pong ball for our salads. Our neighbor, Bud, mentioned that he had added castings from his aunt’s worm farm, and he figured that must be how come his plants were doing so well.

We have our share of earthworms in our home dirt, and knew they were beneficial, but had never seen the value of  concentrated worm poop demonstrated so clearly. That chance encounter sent me off to research how I could harness worm power to nourish my ailing garden.

Here in northeast Florida, our soil is mostly sand. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of natural fertility for growing good stuff, though impenetrable jungle growth will choke any neglected patch lickety-split. Besides that, I’ve been cursed with the brownest of thumbs. I have always pitied whatever plants had the misfortune to end up at my house. Contrast that with my dogs, who thrive and win championships in various venues. I’ve always felt more affinity for animals than vegetables.

A desire for increased self-sufficiency drove me to buy plants, seeds, potting soil, Black Kow, and give a raised garden a try. Here came the famous Florida bugs sans bees, last summer’s record-setting heat which stopped fruit-setting dead, my ignorance, bad advice, a record-setting freezing winter and anything else that could go wrong. I figured if I had to depend on my garden, I’d starve right quick. Meanwhile, the untended blackberry patch in the ditch and the wild elderberries hanging over the fence produce better crops than all my carefully cultivated veggies combined. God does have a sense of humor.

My fit of jealousy turned constructive. After researching the wonderful composting job worms do, I decided a worm farm was just what I needed. When I told my husband my plans, he did a lot of eye-rolling. I need to remember to break such news to him gently. Poor man. He’s put up with litters of pups and a houseful of Collies for most of our 43 years of wedded bliss. “You aren’t keeping worms in the house!” he ordered. “And forget about chickens!” I assured him I had no intention of keeping the wigglies in the house, and my herding dogs think sheep are fun to boss around, but birds are way too tasty. I planned to pamper my new charges in a climate-controlled outbuilding. Intense summer heat can be lethal to worms, or at least slow down their feeding and reproduction. If we had a basement, that might be a good spot, but basements are a rarity in Florida. With our soggy water table we’d end up with a disgusting indoor swimming pool.

I asked around for a source of worms. Bud said his aunt simply collected her worms from the yard and kept the bin in the backyard shade. A fellow at a plant nursery has a worm farm, and he got his Canadian night crawlers from the bait section of Wal-Mart. Both of them seem to be successful, but my research suggested that they were lucky. Luck rarely works for me, so I wanted to try to do it right from the start. Big old night crawlers like to burrow deep into the earth and a plastic tote bin is a mite confining for them. The local worms might work out fine, but red wigglers (eisenia foetida) seem to be the gold standard for cultivated worms. They are top feeders and can adapt to a bin.

Apparently aquarium or reptile dealers feed earthworms to their critters, but I didn’t find one that had worms for me. Besides, if the worms were lunch for tropical fish, perhaps their health and well-being would not be a big concern.

Habitat
The first thing to consider before welcoming my new pets was providing a proper habitat for them. They have the same aversion to light as do vampires, so clear plastic bins don’t work. I bought a large opaque tote bin at Wally World for under six bucks. We drilled line of air holes along the top sides for ventilation. Some worm farmers recommend drain holes to get rid of excess fluids, but apparently they aren’t necessary if the moisture level is kept about right. They need bedding with a neutral pH. Although shredded newspaper is sometimes recommended, coconut coir or peat moss give a better start. Peat moss needs some crushed egg shells to neutralize the pH and provide calcium and grit to help the worms’ digestion. Birdlike, they have gizzards to grind their food.
Their digs need to be moist, about like a damp sponge.

What do they eat? Garbage. Vegetable cuttings, shredded paper or cardboard, banana peels, their own bedding. Nothing of animal origin except eggshells except in tiny bits or pre-composted, because of the nasty conditions rotting meat create. Other items requiring care include citrus peels because of the low pH and the toxicity of the oils, or anything spicy or peppery. They don’t like to be disturbed too often, and you shouldn’t handle them without gloves because the oil from your skin clogs their breathing apparatus. Seems they get their oxygen through their damp skins. Not too wet, not too dry, just right, and let the little hermaphrodites eat, reproduce, and make that wonderful compost for my garden.

Sources
Where to get the worms? Do an Internet search and you’ll find plenty of folks willing to sell you a pound of worms. If you’re lucky, you might find a local source. I decided to buy them from Big Tex Worms for a number of reasons. Liz offers all sorts of clearly stated instruction on YouTube as well as on her web site. She also will send a “starter kit” with the worms shipped in their familiar bedding. She has done studies that prove this is a more successful system than selling a container of worms by the pound, which arrive stressed and less likely to thrive. From the video tour of her home, she’s into self-sufficiency. And she seems to care about her little guys.

I made my order, and she shipped them out priority mail on a Monday. She refuses to mail them after the summer heat sets in, because a delivery of parboiled worms would spoil anyone’s appetite. Evidently they do all right in Texas heat as long as they are kept in the shade with plenty of moisture, though they may slow down their eating and reproducing until more comfortable temperatures arrive.

Although we’re experiencing mid-90 degree weather, my worms arrived cool to the touch in their cloth bag. I followed the directions, installed them in their new home, and kept the light on for a day so they would bury themselves in their bed and not try to squirm away. Then I fed them some nice strawberry cuttings, avocado that had turned brown, and chopped lettuce core. Later I gave them coffee grounds, carrot tops and an apple core. They are eating and don’t seem inclined to escape. After a couple of weeks I turned the bedding to aerate it, and found lots of wigglies moving around. So far so good.

I was prepared to expect other critters to grow in the bin besides the worms, and boy, are they! So far the only bugs I’ve seen are fellow composters, according to my information. Odor is minimal, and the food is turning into what looks like coffee grounds in a matter of days.

For Your Library
If you’d like more information on worm composting, check Liz’s web site referenced above, or a couple of books on the subject, The Worm Book: The Complete Guide to Gardening and Composting with Worms and Worms Eat My Garbage: How to Set Up and Maintain a Worm Composting System.

I expect they’ll produce a nice crop of compost in a couple of months or so, and I hope I’ll need to invest in a second bin for the population explosion.
If it doesn’t work out, I can always eat worms. I found recipes in one of the books I read. Yum. Or I can go fishing.

I’ll be checking back after I get more hands-on experience. Stay tuned!

Letter Re: Vacuum Tube Radios for Preppers

Jim:
A lot of us got the radio bug from a Hallicrafters S-38 series or a Zenith Trans-Oceanic. I have both and still enjoy them, but when I need to tease out an obscure signal my old National HRO usually beats about any other radio in the shack (new or old) hands down.

The S-38 is a good choice since outside of the band-switching arrangement it has the guts of an All-American Five radio. This makes it a lot more repairable, most of the components are “generic”, i.e. tubes, capacitors, IF transformers, et cetera.

The only downside to a [transformerless] AC-DC radio is that the tube life is not as long [as with most transformer] AC designs. It is almost always the high voltage heaters (the rectifier and audio output tube) that fail.

One very important thing to keep in mind about the S-38 (or any metal-cased AC-DC radio) is they can be deadly if not properly checked and maintained. Most AC-DC radios use the chassis as a ground return; that means one side of the power line is hard wired to the chassis. In the S-38 the chassis is isolated by rubber grommets, cardboard bottom and back and plastic knobs. Crumbling grommets, a shifted chassis, too long a screw, et cetera can put the case at line voltage — being at a minimum a nasty shock hazard. This is pretty easily remedied on most radios; Make sure the knobs are all non-conductive, the chassis is still floating in rubber grommets. (Replace them all). The backs and sometimes the bottoms are missing. Make new ones with perforated Masonite (pegboard). JWR Adds: For those who are collectors, some very nice replica back covers and bottoms are available from Retro-Tronics.
 

Add a 3-wire cord grounded to the case (not the chassis). Failing that, then add polarized plug so that the chassis is always at ground potential (the larger prong of the plug). On wood cased AC-DC radios tape over the screws that hold the chassis to to case. Never use an AC-DC radio that is missing any knobs. Make sure (or have someone who knows how) make sure the chassis is isolated from any metal you can touch.

Other recommendations:

  • Add a [soft start] in-rush suppressor in the power circuit. This lengthens warm-up time but makes the tubes last almost forever.  The resistance of the filaments is rather low when cold and the in-rush current is rather high for a moment, this is why the dial light on these radios is momentarily very bright when turned on stone cold. At this moment the filaments (espescially in the 35 and 50 volt tubes) are under maximum stress. Limiting the in-rush allows for more gradual warm up.
  • I’d add a fuse to both legs of the power line, the 1 amp glass pigtail fuses work nicely in most AC-DC sets. Encase them in vinyl or heat-shrink tubing.
  • Keep spare antenna materials, I lost several antennas during Hurricane Ike: I actually lost them all!
  • Consider using an isolation transformer when operating on AC. These are de rigueur for servicing tube radios.
  • Go to NostalgiaAir.org and print out a schematic of your radio and keep it with the radio (inside the case in an envelope if space and safety permit). It’ll help you or someone who knows how to fix your radio, down the road.
  • Keep a spare set of tubes. Make sure to test that they all actually work in the set. Most radios will operate sucessfuly with weak tubes except the converter tube. A weak one characterized by reception pooping out as you increase frequency. A really weak one will only operate on the bottom 1/2 of the broadcast band, forget about shortwave! The usual converter tubes (AC-DC) are 12SA7 and 12BE6.

As a side note, I own an example of the greatest AC-DC radio made: a Scott SLRM, it was made for the U.S. Navy during WWII. It is deadly by design. It is AC-DC but was primarily designed for use on the 120 Volt DC common to existing ships of the era. One side of the power line is tied to the case by design. This is okay for a ship with floating or polarized DC power, but deadly elsewhere. Mine has a permanent isolation transformer [, which with this design is a must for safety]. Regards, – “Tired Tubes”

JWR Replies: Thanks for those suggestions, particularly regarding grounding isolation transformers. By coincidence, I have been looking for a Scott SLRM for my family’s use here at the ranch. If anyone out there has a spare that is gathering dust, I’m willing to pay the going retail price, or work a trade from the JASBORR inventory, for some goodies of slightly greater value. I’m not looking for gem. I just need a decent SLRM that is working and complete to start with, for restoration. The only real “must” is that the volume potentiometer isn’t scratchy. The speaker can be blown, since I can replace that.) The tubes (other than the tuning eye) can be weak. Again, I can replace those.  The capacitors can be original.  I can re-cap it, and replace any resistors that are outside of their value specifications. I’ll have who is a wizard with an oscilloscope a friend re-align it.  It can even have a tobacco smoke-stained front, but the dial must be nice and legible.  I’d prefer one with a civilian ID plate, but a Navy ID plate is okay if there is no corrosion.  I’d prefer one that is already set up with an isolation transformer of the appropriate size, but that isn’t a must. Does this sound one that somebody out there has available? If so, please e-mail me. Thanks!

Letter Re: Charity and Food Storage Rotation

JWR,
As I was reading the letter about the Vancouver riots, the part about the homeless man reminded me of one of the ways I rotate the food in my bug out bag (BOB). I know that a lots of people don’t like to give money to beggars, because they don’t want them to just buy booze. I also know that many people don’t use the food in their BOB (I’ve personally seen some rather old, funky smelling granola bars). Yes, I know you can use them when you go camping or hiking for practice, or just have MREs or freeze dried food that doesn’t need to be rotated very often, but I don’t have the money for MREs and I like to eat better than that when I camp.

So what I do is when I rotate things that expire, like granola bars or fruit leathers, is I put them in my car and/or my purse. Then, if I see someone asking for handouts, I ask them if they would like some food. I’ve never had anyone turn me down. That way the food doesn’t go to waste, and you feel good about helping someone in need. This is a “win-win” solution. – Sarah M.

Economics and Investing:

Greece Credit-Default Swaps Surge to Record 2,189 Basis Points, CMA Says. Oh those derivatives, again.

P.R.D. suggested this: Is the Fed Insolvent?

Scott M. found a facebook page devoted to the logic of saving nickels: Stacking Nickels.

IMF Cuts U.S. Growth Forecast to 2.5%. (Thanks to Steven M. for the link.)

Adam B. sent this: Greek Bailout Leaves the French Unruffled While German Politicians Seethe

Items from The Economatrix:

Inflation Slows In May as Gas Prices Fall

Eric Sprott:  We’re Headed Over a Cliff, Be Wary of Paper Assets

Failure To Raise Debt Ceiling Could Result in Severe Market Disruption. But of course raising the debt limit repeatedly will inevitably destroy the Dollar.

Economy Gets Lift:  Layoffs Ease, Homebuilding Up

Home Building, Jobs Report Push Dow Higher

Odds ‘n Sods:

Some great advice, over at the Patarus Familia blog: Practical Preparedness – Storage

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Fukushima, Nebraska? Airspace Over Flooded Nebraska Nuclear Power Plant Still Closed

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Ron in Florida sent: New Apple Technology Stops iPhones From Filming Live Events. Ron’s comment: “The implications of potential misuse are chilling.” JWR Adds: Yes, what if The Powers That Be (TPTB) decide that they don’t want anyone filming the police cracking skulls at a public protest demonstration? Camera “Lock Outs” could presumably be based on GPS coordinates, rather than in infrared emitters.

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The mainsteram media’s demonizing of survivalism and militias continues: Montana fugitive part of new anti-government strain. They of course trotted out the left winger “extremism expert” Mark Potok from the SPLC to wax melodramatic. Oh how predictable…

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H.L. sent us a bit of local coverage from North Carolina on the filming of the CME short film “The Carrington Event”.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The LORD knoweth the days of the upright: and their inheritance shall be for ever.

They shall not be ashamed in the evil time: and in the days of famine they shall be satisfied.” – Psalm 37:18-19 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

For those that might feel guilty about never getting a voluntary 10 Cent Challenge subscription, here is a new, zero cost option: You can donate your computer’s background processing power to mine Bitcoins for the Ten Cent Challenge. This a Java applet that is NOT installed on your PC or Mac. It simply runs within a web browser session. If everyone that reads SurvivalBlog were to keep that Bitcoin mining web page open while web browsing, or better yet, overnight… It might even add up to some significant digits. The link above incrementally adds Bitcoins to SurvivalBlog’s specific account as soon as you click on “Start Generating”, and will continue to do so as long as you leave the page open. Many Thanks!

Pat’s Product Review: Diamondback .380 ACP Pistol

Diamondback Firearms has only been around a very short time. However, they are rapidly gaining a reputation for producing extremely well-made handguns. At present, Diamondback is only producing a couple of models, one in .380 ACP and the newest in 9mm. There are several different variations on the .380 ACP already. The new 9mm just has one model at present.

Make no mistake, I’m not an advocate of the .380 ACP round as my one and only handgun. In today’s society, there are just so many bad guys that are hopped-up on drugs that the .380 ACP, doesn’t have the stopping power to put an end to an attack by someone who isn’t feeling any pain. However, I believe the .380 ACP comes into its own as a back-up to another gun of a larger caliber.

Look, let’s face facts. Many people believe that preparing for “survival” means preparing for an end of the world event. And they purchase the firearms they believe they’ll need to survive that sort of thing. I have no problem with that, for the most part. However, I believe you are more likely to need a firearm on the mean streets of America (and the world, for that matter) to survive an assault, rape, robbery or other violent crime. So, purchasing the best AR-15 in the world isn’t going to do you much good if you can’t pack it every day on the street. You need a handgun, plain and simple. And you need a handgun that you can conceal easily.

I received the Diamondback DB380 for test and evaluation some months ago, and I was taken with the quality workmanship that was evident in my sample. And, quite honestly, the DB380, looks for all the world like a baby Glock, and most people who first see the DB380 mistakenly believe it actually is a Glock.

I carry a small .380 ACP handgun in an ankle holster as a back-up to my main carry gun, which is usually either a Glock 19 or 23, or some type of 1911 in .45 ACP. Having lived about half my life in Chicago, Illinois, I learned a long time ago to carry a back-up. When I was working as a Private Investigator, it just made good sense to have a second gun, and I usually carried a .38 Special snubbie in an ankle holster. As a main carry piece, I usually had a 4″ barrel .357 Magnum revolver on my side or in a shoulder holster.

The DB380 is what I’d call a micro-compact .380 ACP. Matter of fact, it’s smaller than many .22 and .25 autos I’ve owned, and the .380 ACP sure packs more punch than a .22 or .25 does. With 6+1 rounds of .380 ACP in the DB380, you are about as well armed as you’d be with a larger .380 ACP. I used to love the ol’ Walther PPK/S in .380 ACP. It was (and still is) a good gun. However, when I take into consideration that the PPK/S is a medium-sized handgun, and the new breed of micro-compact .380s that are out there, the micros win as a second carry gun, in my book.

With a weight of only 8.8 oz, the DB380 is about the lightest of its breed that I’ve run across. With a 2.80″ barrel, it is also one of the smallest .380s on the market. We have a double action only trigger pull of about 5-lbs. on the DB380, and that trigger pull is extremely smooth too. On the Diamondback web site, they claim that the trigger is “crisp” and smooth. I don’t quite understand that comment, as I find that double action only (DAO) triggers aren’t very “crisp.” I will say though, that the DB380 has a very, very smooth trigger pull, and it’s shorter than that found on some of the other micro-compacts.

I tested the DB380 with FMJ and JHP loads from Black Hills Ammunition, and JHP loads from Buffalo Bore. I also tested FMJ loads from Winchester Ammunition. I had zero malfunctions with any of the loads tested. The Buffalo Bore .380 JHP load is rated as +P and the DB380 had no problem with this load. The Black Hills JHP load gave me the best accuracy at 7 yards, with groups around 2″ if I did my part. And, let’s be honest here, any of the micro-compact handguns are meant for up-close and personal protection. I believe 7 yards is a fair test of the accuracy of these itty-bitty handguns. The Buffalo Bore JHP +P load really woke me up in the little pistol. I knew I was shooting a pretty hot load. I wouldn’t recommend a steady diet of this +P ammo in the smaller .380s. Just make sure you pistol functions with this load, confirm point of aim, and then keep your gun loaded with it for self-defense. I also carried the Black Hills .380 ACP JHP load in my .380 handguns for a lot of years, and I still do, it’s a fine load. For practice, I’d recommend either the FMJ Black Hills load or the Winchester FMJ load.

I liked the overall appearance of the DB380, it was very attractive, and as already stated, the darn guns look like baby Glocks. I did find that I preferred shooting the gun with the magazine with the finger extension on it.  I ordered a second mag with my test gun, and it came with the finger extension. The three-dot sights were small, very small, but my aged eyes could still pick up the three dots. Many of the smaller .380s on the market don’t have sights that are “usable” to my way of thinking. But they are fine for a point shooting situation, which isn’t a bad thing, as these guns are meant for up-close self-defense.

All things considered, I couldn’t find much to fault with the DB380, other than the caliber.

Which leads me to the newly released DB9, which is a slightly larger version of the DB380, and it’s chambered in 9mm. I wasn’t aware that Diamondback was producing the DB9, as a matter of fact, it was sent to my local gun shop by mistake. They made a call to Diamondback, and asked about it. Diamondback said it was shipped to them by mistake. My dealer told them that I was a gun writer and would be more than happy to test and evaluate the gun… the deal was done!

The DB9, as already mentioned, is only slightly bigger and heavier than the DB380, and it still holds 6+1 rounds of 9mm. The weight is only 11-oz. and the barrel is slightly longer, at 3″. Now, what’s not to like here? Again, make no mistake, I’m not the world’s biggest fan of the 9mm round either. However, I have no problem carrying a good JHP round in 9mm for self-defense. I just have my druthers, like everyone else, and I prefer either a .40 S&W or the good ol’ .45 ACP for self-defense, in a JHP round. There is nothing wrong with the 9mm round, I just prefer a little more “oomph” in my self-defense round.

The DB9, just looks like a slightly bigger sibling to the DB380, and I mean it’s only slightly bigger. What’s not to like here, with a micro-compact 9mm? I had a good selection of Black Hills FMJ and JHP ammo, in new and remanufactured versions, as well as JHP +P and +P+ loads from Buffalo Bore. I also tested some Winchester FMJ and JHP +P 9mm loads – Their 9mm Supreme Bonded JHP +P load is 124-gr round and it sure got my attention. I fired the DB9 quite a bit, even though it was starting to hurt my hand after a couple boxes of ammo. I just really took a liking to the DB9 for some reason.

The Black Hills loads produced the best accuracy overall, that is, their JHP loads. I tested at 7-yards once again, but I did do a little bit of shooting at 15-yards. At the 7-yard line, I could easily keep all my shots inside of 2″ and that’s plenty accurate enough for self-defense. The DB seemed to like the 115-gr JHP Black Hills load the best. I couldn’t find any place in the DB9 instruction manual, where it said the gun couldn’t handle +P or +P+ 9mm ammunition. While the DB functioned fine with the Buffalo Bore 115-gr JHP +P round, the 115-gr JHP +P+ load was just too much for the DB9. The slide was moving too fast to pick up the next round in the mag, and it would close on an empty chamber. I was surprised that the 115-gr JHP +P load functioned fine from Buffalo Bore – I thought it was going to be a bit too hot for the DB9 to handle, but handle it did. However, I would restrict this load to carry only, and not for plinking. Then again, Buffalo Bore ammo isn’t produced for plinking – it’s meant as a serious self-defense load. This load really bucks in the itty-bitty DB9, and it may be too hard to handle for some folks.

I think I would stoke the DB9 with either the Black Hills 115-gr JHP or the Winchester Supreme Bonded loads and be quite happy with them. I know they are good self-defense rounds, and it’s one I can handle in the DB9 without any problems. The Buffalo Bore load is an excellent performer too, just a matter of personal preference. I’m a bit picky about which loads I carry in each gun I have. Load selection is important, but hitting your target is even more important than the ammo you select.

Personally, I’d go for the DB9 over the DB380, simply for the fact that I have more trust in a 9mm to stop a fight. With the DB9 being only slightly bigger and heavier than the DB380, I can see myself carrying this micro-compact 9mm in an ankle holster any day of the week. I usually use a Blackhawk Products ankle holster, as I find them very affordable, as well as extremely comfortable. Many people give up on ankle holsters after only a day or two. I’ve found that you need to carry at for least two weeks, and then you won’t even notice the ankle holster is there. Many times I’ve found that I forgot to take off my Blackhawk ankle holster after I’ve come home. It will be several hours later when I discover I still have the gun on my ankle. It’s that comfortable. I’ve tried some of the pocket holsters, but no matter how small a gun might be, they all seem too big in my pockets, and I wear cargo pants all the time. I guess it’s a personal thing.

Diamondback Firearms are in high demand, and right now, it seems as though demand outstrips supply. I’m not going to quote any prices here, as the prices vary quite a bit from gun shop to gun shop. It depends on the availability of the Diamondback firearms in your area, so shop around for the best price you can get, if you can even find the DB380 or DB9 in your area. They are hot sellers, to be sure. If you like well-made and USA-made firearms, then take a close look at the Diamondback line-up. Personally, I’d go with the DB9, just because it’s a 9mm and only slightly bigger than the DB380.

Remember, most survival situations will be on the mean streets, not out in the boonies or in an end of the world situation. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t prepare for a survival situation that might mean a total collapse of society, I believe that it can and will happen. However, on a daily basis, you are more likely to need a concealed handgun to save your butt on the mean streets, and the Diamondback line-up is worth a close look.

Letter Re: Bookshelf Recommendations

Jim,
I looked at your Bookshelf recommendations and I have a few suggestions to add:

First, the Combat Lifesaver handbook. I received a stapled back copy of this accompanied with hands on training through the military, prior to my recent deployment to Afghanistan, and it is basically an instruction course format, laid out for providing medical treatment during combat pre-first responders.

Second, the Combat Medic Field Reference. It is a combat medics waterproof pocket guide designed to fit into side pocket of trousers. It covers virtually everything a specific medic or group of medics who are rendering aid under combat would need including triage.

Third, since I am a bomb technician, I study explosives literature, and I highly recommend The Chemistry of Powder and Explosives by Tenney L. Davis. It’s a great book for those inclined to learn more about this topic.

Thanks, – D.M.