Ready for “Slutet På Världen Som Vi Känner Den” in Sweden

The migration of SurvivalBlog’s web server to Sweden is complete. The new dedicated server is now humming along nicely with 5 Terabytes of available bandwidth, utilizing very fast dual-quad core processors. The kinks have nearly all been worked out. Now that the DNS propagation has been completed, SurvivalBlog is also back to a #1 ranking when you search “Survival Blog” in the major search engines like Bing, Yahoo, and Google.

We are now down to just one sticky issue with McAfee anti-virus software displaying a false malware warning when SurvivalBlog is visited. This is because our server’s IP address falls in the numeric range of our new web hosting company, IT-Staden AB (aka “Server Connect”) in Hudiksvall, Gävleborg, Sweden. (They are located about 170 miles north of Stockholm.) It seems that there had been some past indiscretions by some Swedish or Russian hackers that had been customers of the same web hosting company. Rather than pinpointing the particular IP addresses of the “bad boys”, McAfee’s software takes the sledgehammer approach and displays the warning flag for anyone using servers in large blocks of IP address numbers. I will be contacting McAfee about getting this rectified. For now, you can just ignore McAfee’s malware warning message, but only when you visit SurvivalBlog.com.

Several readers have asked: “Why did you get a server in Sweden?”

In a nutshell, these were our reasons:

  1. First, and foremost, we needed to find web hosting in a country with a stable, neutral government that is not “Beholden to Holder.” (Yes, SOPA/PIPA/ACTA–or something like it–is still a concern.)
  2. We needed a reliable server with high uptime. (Sweden has very reliable hydroelectric power, ane Hudiksvall is well removed from major European pupulation centers.)
  3. Lower cost for monthly bandwidth.

Update (2015): We later migrated to a dedicated server in Holland.



A Wannabe Homesteader, by Brenda K.

Some of my long-time friends can’t believe me now.  I was definitely a “city girl,” but now I’m a “wannabe homesteader.”  We’re living in the country now and I’m having fun learning to do a lot of “new” things.  Some of these things are just ordinary, every-day chores for people who grew up on farms, but for me, it’s a whole new way of life.  I’ve really enjoyed making butter and yogurt from the fresh milk we buy from the local Amish.  The first day I bought a gallon of milk from them, I told them I’d never had fresh milk before and the look on the young man’s face was priceless!  He couldn’t believe it.  Making laundry detergent and dishwasher detergent is saving us money, too – and it’s fun for me.  Something else that’s saving us a ton of money is heating with firewood.  Cutting firewood is something my husband and I do together several times a week and we really feel like a team, working our land together.  Working out in the timber, I feel so blessed that God gave us all those resources to help us.

My husband and I spent our honeymoon in the Ozarks and fell in love with the area.  A friend had found a very nice, reasonable mobile home near a big lake to use as a cabin.  We told him if he heard of another good deal to let us know and it wasn’t too long and we had our own “lake cabin.”   We lived in a major city in the Midwest and had high pressure jobs, so it was really good to get away as often as we could.  We enjoyed our lake cabin for a few years, but we both knew eventually we’d want to have an acreage with lots of trees and some kind of water like a pond or creek.  I was always watching the real estate ads and found an interesting acreage listed.  We called the realtor to get directions to view the property.  She was very nice and offered to meet us there, but we said no, we just wanted to take a look.  The directions were from the south end of town and we started from the north end, so the mileage was off and we had trouble finding it.  We stopped at a farmhouse to ask directions and after visiting awhile, discovered the man’s grandfather and my husband’s grandfather were brothers!  We really hadn’t thought of it, but my father-in-law was born in the area and moved away while in his teens and then his father moved the rest of the family later.  We didn’t even think about possibly having relatives in the area.

My husband started having health problems in 2008 and was in the hospital five times in three months.  In 2009 I had surgery for melanoma and had a second surgery in 2010 which turned out to be benign. (Praise God!).  We decided it was time to make the move, so as soon as we could get our house sold, we were heading down!  Our house was an old farmhouse I bought before we were married.  My dad helped me do a lot of repair when I bought it (because it was a dump!)  He was a contractor for over 50 years, so his help was greatly appreciated.  Later on we did more improvements, like aluminum siding, building an additional shed, an additional driveway, etc., but I wished we’d kept on doing little improvements and updating through the years.  When we were getting it ready to go on the market, we had so much work to do, it was overwhelming.  Our retired friend Jim, who had worked in construction for many years, offered to help us and I don’t know what we would’ve done without him!  The house was finally listed August 1, 2010 and we made a deal with prospective buyers on August 30th.  The deal fell through, but with much negotiation, had another deal with the same people towards the end of September and we closed on November 2.  Our last day at work was October 28.  We signed the paperwork at the title company ahead of time, so we were already enjoying a little time in Missouri, to celebrate.

It was several months before we actually felt like we actually lived at the acreage, instead of vacationing.  Part of that was due to several little trips we took within that first year.  I’ve told several people that feeling like you’re always on vacation, is not a bad problem to have!  My husband says retirement is a good job, if you can get it.  The only way our life could be any better, is if we had more money.

In the late winter and early spring, I started some seeds for the first time and boy, did I have fun!  My plan was for container gardening since the soil is very rocky and has a high clay content.  Unfortunately, there was a terrible hail storm while my plants were sitting out on the deck hardening off and they were hit hard – literally!  A neighbor down the road received $19,000 in hail damage and the people across the road from him had $25,000 damage.  We are ¾ mile from them and we had our roof checked out and the roofer said he only saw three dings!  Later our neighbor said he thought he saw damage on our roof, just while standing on our driveway, so we had another roofer check it out.  He said he saw a couple places where it’d be good to pound down a couple nails and caulk, but that was all.

I had a big container garden to try out a lot of different plants to see what I’d prefer.  According to many long-time gardeners, I picked the wrong summer to try gardening for the first time!  People that had gardened for 50 years were not very successful that year, so it’s no wonder my gardening efforts were pretty much a flop.  With the extensive heat wave and the “varmints,” I didn’t have much to show for my efforts.  I learned a lot. One of the lessons was to do a better job of fertilizing!

I was looking forward to canning bushels of produce from my garden, but that was not to be.  Even without a successful garden, a friend was church taught me how to can and I’ve canned peaches, apples, apple butter, loose meat hamburger, meatloaf, chicken, chicken soup, ham, bacon, navy beans and beans with bacon.  I’ve also had fun “vacuum canning” dry goods like pasta, rice, beans, sugar, salt, etc.

I had hoped to invest in solar power, but we just didn’t have the money for it.  We have a Hardy brand outdoor wood burning stove to heat the house and the water.  We love it!  Since we have a double wide mobile home, we weren’t able to “plan” any of the construction details, like insulation, windows, etc., so we try our best to be frugal and conserve energy.  I’m extremely frugal anyway, so it’s kind of a challenge to see how little electricity we can use during the month.  I keep track of the actual usage – not counting the connectivity fee or tax.  The lowest we’ve used is $29 for the month.  We’ve had a couple $29 months and a $30 month.  It was harder when we had the heat wave last summer.  I think the highest was $77, so after the fee and tax it was almost $95.  That month some friends had a bill of over $300, but they have a two story stick-built home.

In past years, there have been some serious winter storms with some areas being without power for more than two weeks.  After experiencing a terrible storm several years back and being without power for a few days, we wanted to do the planning and prep work to be able to sustain power for our home during an emergency power outage.  We have two generators – a small one and a new larger one.  We had a licensed electrician come and figure the best way to avoid trouble.  Now if there’s an outage, we’ll throw a power transfer switch and plug in the generators and we should be okay.  The smaller generator will service the water pump and larger one will be for the house.  We still have to go through and identify the primary circuits we want to power during an outage.  It feels good to prepare as well as we can to avoid trouble.  We have built up a reserve of gasoline and have treated it with stabilizer to keep it good.

I believe that everyone needs to prepare as much as possible for other types of emergencies as well.  Last year we installed a storm shelter and I’ve been putting supplies in the shelter.  It’s pretty small, so I’m being selective about what to put in there.  The devastation of the Joplin tornado gives cause for reflection and inspiration to stock our shelter well.

An economic emergency is something else I think people should consider.  The state of our government is a big cause for worry for many people – including me.  It wouldn’t take much to disrupt our normal distribution system, which could mean that the grocery stores would be empty within a few days or maybe even a few hours.  I believe it is very, very important to keep that in mind.  Too many people only have enough food and other supplies for a few days or weeks.  A friend of mine told me her son and daughter-in-law in New York shop for their groceries daily.  Their apartment is so small that they don’t stock any groceries.  Apparently, that’s common in New York – yet another reason why I prefer to live in the Midwest.  In case of any kind of disaster, there would be a whole lot of hungry people in that big city!  Imagine the unethical people thinking they’d just take what they need from others.  I think everyone should be building up their supply reserve – even if it’s just a little at a time.  When you’re grocery shopping, try to prioritize so that you can buy a little extra of the basics that will store long term.  Space is an issue for many people, but what I’ve found is, the more you look around and the more you organize, the more space you can find.  It also inspires me to get rid of excess “stuff” and ours goes to a thrift store that benefits the Humane Society–one of my passions!  The more you prepare, the more peace and security you will have – regardless of what’s going on in the news.

Thinking of the evil people who were too lazy to prepare and thought they’d just take what they want reminded me of something I heard a few weeks ago.  We’ve been attending some readiness meetings put on by a discount grocery business that specializes in helping people prepare for emergencies.  A man in attendance said he has a bumper sticker on his truck that says “Don’t tread on me.”  A young guy at a gas station asked him where he got it and he told him.  The man was suggesting that he start preparing for difficult times.  That young guy said he didn’t have to prepare – that he and his ex-military buddies would just take whatever they wanted from others.  He said they could go into anyone’s place and just take what they want.  That was right here in our little (ostensible "safe") town!  One year in the 1990s our town was voted the safest city (per capita) in the nation.  Something else that some of my long-time friends probably would be shocked at, is one of the ways we chose to prepare.  Both my husband and I decided it was wisdom to get our concealed carry permits.  The world is changing – and not for the good!  I truly believe we have to be prepared for all kinds of trouble.

I don’t know your religious beliefs, but I believe that my husband and I were being led to prepare.  Our preparing isn’t like some people, with bomb shelters or the like.  That could be due to financial lack, but I like to think it’s more the path of our leading.  I felt that we were being led to “prepare for difficult times.”  I believe that God has been leading many more of His people to also "prepare for difficult times."  Part of His plan may be to have certain people strategically placed so that they can help others.  I’ve known for several years that part of my calling is to help others – this may be one of the ways.  The friend at church who taught me to pressure can foods at home also feels that she may be called upon to share her reserves with her church family.  That’s why she and I both have been packaging some of our long-term storage into smaller containers – in case we need to share a quart or two of beans and rice or whatever with our friends and neighbors.  If everyone will prepare with the thought of sharing with friends, relatives and other people in need, then those difficult times may be a little easier! 

I want to encourage people – everyone – to prepare.  A little at a time, can by can, jar by jar – week by week, and month by month. Before long you could stand back and admire your “investment” in peace and security.  If an ignorant “city girl” like me can learn how to make butter and yogurt, to can all kinds of food, to make her laundry and dish soap, to help cut firewood almost daily – and to actually enjoy it, then anyone can learn the skills necessary to start on the road to self-sufficiency!



Urban and Suburban Preparedness, by ChemEngineer

A recent conversation prompted this article. It seems that friends in urban and suburban homes feel that there may be little hope for them in case of disaster, since they have no “retreat” set up in a rural area as a destination. This article points out similarities in all disaster preparedness, as well as possible differences in strategies and tactics to make surviving in urban and suburban locations more likely. None of these are new ideas, just slanted toward those who are urban/ suburban dwellers and that do not have a rural retreat location.

While not detailed in scope, below are several points to assist in preparedness for survival in urban/ suburban locations for those who cannot or will not choose to relocate to a rural existence.

  1. Attitude is Critical. As in rural retreating, or any other kind of survival situation, urban and suburban dwellers must adopt the attitude that surviving the bad time is an achievable goal, and whatever can be done to ensure survivability will be done. It may not involve acres of tilled soil or forests of trees, but in all except situations of total annihilation, people can survive in urban/ suburban spaces if properly prepared.
  2. Air. Three minutes without breathe-able air is a problem. Urban/suburban dwellers may find the air more polluted than the rural tribes from fallout, burning buildings, any number of hazards. Gas masks and adequate replacement filters can go a long way for personal protection, but also consider the sealing of your living space (the infamous “tape and plastic” that FEMA so indelicately told us to stock) as well as a filter and fan for incoming air to pressurize and provide air changes in a living space. Coarse filters (like bandanas or sheets) stretched over HEPA filters (second stage) with carbon absorption (third stage) can be found and assembled/ stocked now, so make a plan (actually, make 3 redundant plans) to make this happen. Think of the filter that the Apollo 13 astronauts put together to save themselves. It can be done. Even radioactive fallout will dissipate to livable levels within a couple of weeks, so if you are out of a blast zone (a typical nuclear device has a blast zone of maybe a couple miles in diameter… call that a worst case), this is not a permanent situation.
  3. Shelter. Three hours without shelter in some environments is a problem. Figure out where it would be best to shelter in place, whether that is your home (preferable, because all our preps will likely be there if we do not have a rural location already set-up), apartment, or someplace else (where we can stage and cache supplies). Urban and suburban environments place high value on “space”, so our homes and apartments will likely be our “space”. I have a friend in a major city that took the unused space in a hallway above the door frames, dropped in thick plywood attached to substantial cleats on the walls (attached to studs), and now has an “attic space” right there in her apartment. Do not become a refugee while searching for a better place, but have at least two other options for an alternative space if they become necessary. Don’t plan to live in a tent or “take to the mountains to live off the forest”. Bad idea. Apartment buildings that are 4 stories or more, and not tall enough to stick out or become outposts are good. Stay above the third floor for security (but get in shape, because that is a lot of steps, since elevators will not work). Do not become a refugee in any circumstance. Be somewhere familiar and set up a base. Clothes are included in shelter, so have some work clothes and boots that can last in a pinch, get gloves and backups, and cold/ rain gear for all. You probably already have most of the outerwear for your area.
  4. Water. Three days without water is a problem. Tarps for rainwater collection are your friend, but keep them as subdued as possible. Rainwater from roofs coming down gutters can be diverted to barrels or buckets. Keep Clorox Liquid Bleach in the laundry basket, and a couple under the sink. One gallon of bleach will treat thousands of gallons of water, making it usable. Add two drops per liter and let it sit for 30 minutes. Add more bleach if the water is cloudy. Liquid Bleach has a shelf life, but it is at least 6 months in an unopened bottle, so buy 3 or 4 bottles and be covered. One bottle of bleach may be the best dollar you ever spent. Powdered calcium hypochlorite is fine also, just takes extra steps to use it properly and will lose potency if not carefully sealed. Water needs to be located and buckets stored to transport it, or in suburbs, you can drill a “landscape watering well” with a removable manual pump-head. Urbanites, check roof drain locations and tap into them when needed. You cannot store enough water in a small apartment to last a year… for four people, that would be about 1500 gallons minimum. That is four pallets of water (40”x48”x48” tall) in those pallet-sized tanks, and it would need to be rotated if you kept it onsite. Put another way, it would take about 19 of those 80 gallon hot water tanks to hold this much water. The weight of 1,500 gallons of water weighs more than 10,400 pounds excluding the containers. Keep enough water on hand in 2 liter bottles discreetly hidden under the sink or in closets to use until you can tap into a water source. Locating water is a big deal, so start looking around now. Newer apartment buildings have fire water standpipes, some have tanks on the top floors. Figure out how to tap into those if needed. Take a plumbing class if you can’t figure out how to do a tap and run a hose and open/ close valves, but don’t actually tap it until the time is right..
  5. Food. Three weeks without food is a problem. Basic food storage for four people will take up a surprisingly small space. I do not mean the freeze-dried canned materials, nor am I talking MREs but you can certainly do both of those. I mean basic food, such as suggested in Ragnar Benson’s book, Urban Survival
    1. “5×50 pound sacks of sugar,
    2. 6×50 pound sacks of flour (or wheat to be ground into flour),
    3. 10×25 pound sacks of cleaned lentils,
    4. 10×25 pound sacks of split peas,
    5. 10×25 pound sacks of dried beans,
    6. 2×3 gallon jugs Vegetable Oil,
    7. 100 pounds of dried milk. “

All of this adds up to a pallet (40”x 48”) that is about six to seven layers tall… a total of maybe 5 feet tall, and a lot less money than you think if bought in bulk. Think of a big closet for storage, or the “apartment attic” described before. Even small apartments have closets and under beds or inside couches to place the materials. Rotate it out, of course. Now, this list of basics will allow survival with basic nutrition, but you want to do more than survive, you want to thrive, so… Many more things can be stored for long periods of time. Every trip to the store, add a couple of items and you will be amazed how quickly it accumulates. Add bagged rice, boxed pasta, all varieties of canned stuff (condensed soup, canned meat, canned tuna, canned salmon, canned butter, canned pasta sauce, canned veggies), spices, tabasco to give it all some kick. If you are hungry, the pallet of nutrition will get you and 3 other people through a year while you grow things in any available dirt, whether that is a container, on the roof, on the fire escape, in a window box, or in the flower bed. Also, urban living will support pigeon roosts on a roof or an attic or a shack out back (15 pigeons will give 2 squab per week indefinitely), maybe rabbit hutches out back or on a roof (3 does and a buck will give a 2 rabbits per week indefinitely). Traps for other assorted protein. Ponds and waterways in the city surely support at least snapping turtles which are not half bad… cut off the head, pop open the bottom shell, clean them like any animal, season the water with some spices of your choice, boil them up… tastes like chicken.. Canada geese are a poo-dropping pest now, but can be had easily in nearly every city and suburb in America with rocks or a bolo (three lengths of paracord and three weights on the ends). Learn to butcher animals quickly and efficiently, don’t be squeamish. Take a class, learn the basics. Survival and Preparedness Stores are popping up like mushrooms and offer classes in many different skills..

  1. Fuel. To cook food or to keep warm, we need long-storing fuel. Suburbanites can drop a 1000 gallon propane tank (where regulations allow), hide it, and be set for a year of cooking and house-heating using those little infrared propane heaters that do not need permanent vents or electricity.  Space is a little more difficult for apartment dwellers, but the little 25 pound propane tanks can go almost anywhere. Get a fill valve to fill the smaller tanks, and attach the infrared heaters on top and cook/ heat from them. Electricity can be provided by solar PV generators, or if you want to use precious fuel to make electricity, diesel or propane-converted generators can be pretty small anymore. Noise from these is a concern, but can be muffled or directed upwards to make them less rackety. Find the plans for the mufflers, and learn to weld at the same time. Those ubiquitous suburban golf carts make dandy electrical storage devices. Wire your genny or PV panels to them to charge, and you have deep-cycle 12 volt power to feed an inverter to get 120 VAC. You will lose some efficiency, but you can get the power that you need. Take a class, learn electricity at the same time. This is not even including wood stoves that can burn everything from newspapers to phone books to broken furniture to coal from a seam in a road-cut, asphalt from roads, 2×4’s from collapsed buildings, even wood from real trees! Venting is important, some of these things make acrid smoke, but heat is heat. If you have a rock/ brick fire ring outside for cooking, get a Dutch Oven on feet. It can make anything from bread/ biscuits to soup beans to roasts to serving as a water-bath canner. Get a bunch of matches, butane lighters, and fire-steels (they backup each other) to get the fuel burning.
  2. Medical. Same as rural retreat planning. Get yourself trained, get family trained, and get the supplies organized in multi-level a kits. Wound Care Kit, Upper Respiratory Care Kit, and Bowel Care Kit. Take that Emergency First Aid course from the Red Cross or the Survival Store. Your needs and mileage will vary, but is the same as for a rural retreat.
  3. Sanitation. Learn to process your own wastes, whether that is an outhouse privy with a bag of lime to keep it civil, or a cat-hole. I would keep as much ground clear as possible for growing things. Do not slight the way that wastes are processed. Disease springs from untreated wastes. Take care of it, get it buried if there is ground suitable for that, or burned if you want to use precious fuel.
  4. Security. You will need the same weapons in an urban/ suburban situation as well as a rural situation. These can be as simple as a .22 rifle and pistol for taking anything from the size of a rat up to the size of a bad-guy. Keep it simple, and keep a couple thousand rounds of .22 ammunition in the same place. It will only take up a space 4”x4”x4” for over 500 rounds of .22 Long Rifle, so do the math. Do not doubt the lethality of a .22 round at short distances, but have multiple backups in necessarily larger calibers if you can afford it. Consider any of the common Battle rifles (5.56/ .223 or .308) and 12 gauge shotguns (with ammunition and magazines) for as many as you can afford. Knives, we gotta have them, so get some with backups. Get a radio that runs off rechargeables, a walkie-talkie for every member (and backups). Secure the lower ladder on the fire escape for apartment dwellers. If things get bad, I doubt that the Fire departments are going to be issuing tickets for non-dropping lower ladders on our fire escapes. We don’t want visitors coming up that way.
  5. Planning Every excursion out of the shelter should be planned and staffed, with full knowledge of security, and be sure that the mission is worth the risk. Keep quiet, and keep light discipline by closing curtains and maintaining low profile. Cooking odors go a long way, keep lids on when cooking, and doors closed if possible. Keep flashlights, rechargeables and batteries, and backups. You can never have enough flashlights. Finally, find like-minded folks in your area. Visit a Survival/ Prep store and talk to the folks there, buy supplies there, and take classes there. You’ll get a lot of information and be able to cultivate friendships before trouble starts, so you can help each other when things go bad. We cannot go it alone. Strength in numbers, security in numbers.

Yes, it will be tough to survive in an urban or suburban environment, definitely harder than being 20 miles from a town in a hardened structure, well-watered, raising your own food on 40 acres with a mule, munching on your five years of stored food, and taking shifts in strategically placed LP/OPs, but it is do-able. Don’t be overwhelmed, just eat the elephant in small bites. Take classes from community colleges, Survival/ Prep Stores, Red Cross or CERT organizations.  Nearly all events are survivable, with the right mindset, training, and preparations.



Two Letters Re: Powering Vehicles and Machinery Without Gasoline

James,
Thanks again for doing everything you do.  It is with great pleasure I write to you again to contribute some of my knowledge. I mean no offense to Caspar d’Gonzo, but after reading his article I have the notion that he has not yet actually constructed a gasifier based on the FEMA instructions.  Though his article was very good about covering the theory and basics.

I was first fascinated with gasification when I saw them make a gasifier on The Colony.  I read about it and planned to build one.  Not long after I almost wrecked my Jeep while driving through northern Pennsylvania when I saw someone using a home-made gasifier on a car.  I pulled over and chatted with them and now I really had a passion instilled in me for an alternative energy vehicle.

Fall of 2010 I had a college course called Alternative Energy, and the final project was constructing something relevant to the class.  Some classmates and myself tackled the FEMA wood gasifier.  Other groups built solar food dehydrators, small hydro-electric generators, waste oil burners, etc.  The FEMA gasifier instructions are a good starting point, but far from all you need.  Ingenuity and creativity will get you from the FEMA instructions to a working model.

I sized my gasifier to run the 134 cubic inch, 72 horespower engine in my 1963 Jeep CJ5.  At the beginning of my project, I wanted to run that CJ5 with the gasifier.  Now, I see that this will wear out an engine faster than normal fuels, so I will be building a dedicated gasifier powered vehicle in the future.  Also, the gasifier ended up being very large overall, and requires a pickup truck or trailer.  It would not fit in the back of my CJ5.

I was fortunate enough to have full access to a local salvage yard that was sympathetic to college students.  I could go out and pick through acres of scrap, and I still could not find some of the items that FEMA called for.  The instructions are outdated.  Be prepared to deviate and get creative.

Some things I learned…

Harbor freight has the cheapest ball valves for the carburetor unit.

Garages have 125 lb grease drums/gear oil drums that make good filter housings.  They usually throw them away or use them for garbage cans.  I got one with a re-usable lid just for asking.

Home Depot sells a fireplace sealer in white tubs that worked well on the inside to protect the metal from heat cycle fatigue and seal welds and gaps. But be sure to put it on thin or it will never cure.

I used two 55 gallon drums from the scrap yard instead of garbage cans.  They’re thicker and usually found for free, but make sure they didn’t have anything in them that could poise a health risk when you have a fire inside.

For the shaker bowl in the bottom of the gasifier, I found a stainless steel colander (bowl with lots of holes) large enough at a restaurant equipment supply store.  They had lot’s of sizes and very economically priced.

I used flexible steel exhaust hoses to connect the gasifier to the filter and the filter to the carburetor unit.  They were kind of pricey at my local auto parts store but I was having trouble locating heat resistance flexible pipe.

I used a 4″ Attwood Turbo 12v inline blower to draw a vacuum at the carburetor unit and get the gasifier going.  This fan worked really well and I found PVC pipe fittings at Lowe’s to connect it to the exhaust pipe. These fans are built for pulling fumes out of boat hulls, so they’re typically advertised as spark-less, and the best price I found was online at walmart of all places.  This fan was really useful, because by flipping the wires I could run the fan backwards and blow air into the gasifier to fan the flames on start-up.  Switch the wires back and pull the gas through.

The only free fuel I could get my hands on at college were green pine wood chips made for mulch use.  I would not recommend that less than ideal fuel, but it did still produce flammable gas.  I had tar and filthy water pouring out of my filter.  The FEMA design for a filter was really ineffective.  When I get back into the gasifier project I will be researching what other people are using because a can full of wood chips will not keep your engine running for long.  Lot’s of tar and moisture were bypassing it.  Obviously, I did not have enough temperature drop for condensation and particulate filtration going on.  The fuel definitely needs to be a good wood, not pine, that is dried.  Dried goat manure was used with success on the PA Apocalypse TV show.

The only testing I did was on a 6 HP Briggs & Stratton small engine and it ran fine on the gas I was producing, but when I took the head off after test running there was a lot of tar inside.  I was always able to light the gas coming out of the gasifier outlet for entertainment value and have a nice pink or orange flame to verify it was producing gas.  Also, I only used my gasifier while stationary, not mobile on a vehicle, so I was frequently shaking the bowl in the bottom to pass ashes through it and pushing the fuel in the top into the fire tube.  Mobility is a must with this design so that shakes and bumps going down the road keep things running, but other designs exist that are intended to be stationary.

Right now I’m playing with burning waste motor oil and vegetable oil in a 1967 military surplus M35A2 (“Deuce and a half”) I purchased with great success.  For now, my gasifier will sit and wait until I have more time to experiment with filtration and quality fuel.  I hope to find an older 4-cylinder truck, like a cheap Chevy S10 to mount the gasifier on.

Good Luck with Gasification, – Josh in Pennsylvania

 

James Wesley:
The recent article by Caspar d’Gonzo in SurvivalBlog left out the advances by the open source group gekgasifier.com

They have taken the WWII design into the modern era, with a much more efficient design, as well as a design that is easier to start and produces much less tar than the FEMA design. Best Regards, – Bill M.



Economics and Investing:

This set of charts says it all: The day of reckoning for global total debt – total credit market debt up from $28 trillion in 2001 to $53 trillion in 2012.

Bob L. sent this: Richard Russell – A Bitter Pill to Swallow, Austerity or Inflation

Items from The Economatrix:

True UK Jobless “6.3 Million”

Jim Sinclair: The Lonely Road We Take Together

“Poor America” – How The Broke Are Surviving

Mortgage Settlement Will Plunge Real Estate Values



Odds ‘n Sods:

Ian R. sent this one: How Weather Impacts the Dinner Table

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AmEx (American Expat) sent this: Decision time for researchers of deadly bird flu

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Also from AmEx: Special Report: Towns go dark with post office closings. This is of particular concern for those of us who live way out in the hinterboonies.

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Some sage advice from Ol’ Remus: Preps.

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Bryan E. sent a link to this not-so-new “Russian Inwention”: The AK-12. The latest incarnation of the reliable Kalashnikov action, quite predictably now wearing a Picatinny Rail.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“By many indicators, Greece is devolving into something unprecedented in modern Western experience. A quarter of all Greek companies have gone out of business since 2009, and half of all small businesses in the country say they are unable to meet payroll. The suicide rate increased by 40 percent in the first half of 2011. A barter economy has sprung up, as people try to work around a broken financial system. Nearly half the population under 25 is unemployed. Last September, organizers of a government-sponsored seminar on emigrating to Australia, an event that drew 42 people a year earlier, were overwhelmed when 12,000 people signed up. Greek bankers told me that people had taken about one-third of their money out of their accounts; many, it seems, were keeping what savings they had under their beds or buried in their backyards. One banker, part of whose job these days is persuading people to keep their money in the bank, said to me, ‘Who would trust a Greek bank?'” – Russell Shorto, from his February 19, 2012 New York Times article titled The Way Greeks Live Now.



Note From JWR:

Today we present a short guest article and another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 39 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



An Overview of NFA Gun Trusts, by Patrick Stegall

The last few years have seen the development of an interesting legal mechanism called the gun trust. Gun trusts use estate planning law to deal with, and in some cases legally circumvent, arcane and restrictive federal laws that regulate the use and possession of certain types of firearms. These federal statutes make up the National Firearms Act (NFA), a series of laws that require registration of guns such as machine guns, short barreled rifles and shotguns, and sound suppressors (aka silencers). They are often referred to as Title 2 weapons because they are regulated under Title 2 of the 1968 Gun Control Act. Many people mistakenly call them Class 3 weapons, but Class 3 refers to the dealers of these weapons, not the weapons themselves.

History of the National Firearms Act

The NFA was passed in 1934 in response to the gang violence of that time. It imposed a tax on certain firearms thought to contribute to the growing “gangster” crime problem, including machine guns, short barreled rifles and shotguns, and silencers. In an effort to discourage possession of these types of weapons, individuals were required to register them with the federal government and pay a tax stamp fee of $200. The NFA was amended in 1968 and again in 1986, but its basic provisions remain unchanged: national registration of certain weapons and payment of a $200 tax per weapon, or $5 for devices classified as Any Other Weapon. (“AOWs”).

The NFA has strict requirements and carries stiff penalties for violations. Essentially, only a registered owner of an NFA weapon may be in possession of that weapon. Illegal possession of an NFA firearm carries a prison sentence of up to 10 years and/or a fine of up to $250,000. Be forewarned, “possession” can be a relative and arbitrary term in the eyes of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF).

ATF Requirements

Title 2 weapons must be registered with the ATF through an extensive and lengthy application process. Whether you are purchasing a weapon from a Class 3 dealer or building your own (many people will make their own short barreled rifle out of an existing non-NFA weapon such as an AR-15-style rifle), you must first go through ATF to have it transferred to you. ATF requires that you fill out the appropriate form, affix a two-by-two inch photograph of yourself along with fingerprints, and have the application signed by your local chief law enforcement officer (CLEO) [this is the police chief inside of city limits or the county sheriff if you live outside of city limits.] The $200 must be included, and that is for each weapon. Once the application is approved you will receive notice and the weapon may then be transferred to you. The approval time may take anywhere from three to six months.

The Gun Trust

NFA gun trusts have become popular in recent years as an alternative to individual registration. The central idea behind a gun trust is that the trust itself is the registered owner for NFA purposes, and anyone listed in it as trustee may legally possess the NFA weapons as trust property. There are basically three types of individuals in a gun trust: grantor/settlor, trustee, and beneficiary.

The grantor, or settlor, is the person who sets up the trust. This is usually the individual who wants to register and own Title 2 weapons but also wants other people to be able to use and possess those weapons. The grantor will submit the application to ATF but instead of registering the weapon in their name, he or she will list the trust as the owner. Trustees are individuals who, along with the grantor, will hold the trust property for the beneficiary. Trustees may legally possess NFA weapons in the trust even though they are not listed on the application. Trustees must be at least 18 years old (federal law prohibits anyone under 18 from possessing NFA weapons, and anyone under 21 from purchasing NFA weapons from a Class 3 dealer) and not be otherwise prohibited from possessing firearms. Finally, the beneficiary is the individual who receives the trust property upon the death of the grantor. The grantor can list as many beneficiaries as he or she likes, and there is no age requirement under federal law to be a beneficiary. Thus minor children can be named beneficiaries, and should the grantor die before the beneficiary is of age to take possession a trustee can be designated to hold onto the trust property.

Advantages of a Gun Trust

Gun trusts can be set up to be very flexible. Most are established as a revocable trust, which means it can be changed by the grantor during his or her life. When the grantor dies the trust becomes irrevocable, and changes can no longer be made. With a revocable trust, the grantor may add or subtract individuals or weapons to and from the trust as necessary.

Another advantage is that a trust allows the grantor to legally bypass many ATF application requirements. Fingerprints, photographs, and CLEO signature are not required. Not only can this speed up the process, but it’s nice to be able to tell the government, “No, I don’t have to give you that information.”

Sometimes people will ask about setting up a corporation as the registered owner, but I think trusts are better. Trusts are generally private and do not require public filing (this may not be the case in every state so you should check with a local attorney on this). Corporations are public, do require filing, and also require annual maintenance fees and taxes. For these reasons, trusts are a better way to go.

Should I go the gun trust route?

It depends on your situation, but generally I recommend yes. The trust will be in effect for your life and longer, and with the strict laws that govern NFA weapons it is reassuring to know that you can plan for the distribution of the trust property. For instance, gun trusts are usually good for families. A husband can name his wife, and perhaps other close relatives, as trustees, and his children as beneficiaries. It really just depends on your situation and your long-term goals.

It also depends on where you live, and here I must include the obligatory disclaimer: NFA weapons are not legal in every state. If you are considering getting into the world of Title 2 guns, then please check your state laws. All the information I have given you in this article is based on federal law, but state law applies too and that may differ. I suggest contacting a gun trust attorney in your state to discuss your options.

Patrick Stegall is a Memphis, Tennessee lawyer. Part of his practice is concentrated on drafting NFA gun trusts for individuals and families in Tennessee. For more information please visit him online at Tennessee Gun Trust Lawyer, or e-mail him at pstegall@stegall-law.com.



Planning for Shingles Symptoms in TEOTWAWKI, by M. Matriarch

The chicken pox vaccine was not licensed for use in the US until 1995, which means a lot of adults today may have had chicken pox. That also means that a lot of us are susceptible to developing shingles, a painful potential recurrence of the same virus that infected us with chicken pox. I remember when my great grandmother had shingles in the early 1960s. She experienced great pain and disability for at least a couple of months, and was left much less ‘able’ than before the disease.  Medicine has come a long way since then.

This contribution is to share my experience with shingles and how I now am prepared for a recurrence in TEOTWAWKI. I am not a physician but a survivor of a recent case of shingles, sharing what worked for me and what did not.  If you had the chicken pox vaccine and never actually got the pox, then you don’t need to read this unless you have loved ones who were not so fortunate.  If, as I have experienced, your healthcare won’t cover the Shingles Zoster  vaccine until you are 60 and you don’t plan to pay the $300 for the vaccine with a prescription, here’s my plan to treat a recurrence if I’m on my own in stressful times.

Herpes Zoster is the virus that brings chicken pox. Once you have the virus in your body, it’s your for life. Like many members of the Herpes family, it survives in nerve tissue and lies dormant until conditions are right.   Again, as with most recurring herpes virus, H. Zoster stays in check unless your immune system is stressed.  In adults, H. Zoster can recur as ‘shingles,’ a much more painful version of the active or acute viral infection.   In my recent case, it was a stressful period at work, in winter and after I had slacked off on my regular exercise program. TEOTWAWKI will undoubtedly be more stressful than most work environments, so I choose to plan for the potential until I reach 60 and can get the vaccine.  I probably will keep the preps after that as well.

I was 55 and tired. Work had been a bear, late nights and multiple deadlines.  I had recently been moved to a building that made my allergies kick up, so that wasn’t helping.  I was also preparing for a business trip, getting all the arrangements in order.  On Tuesday, I just didn’t feel right. By Thursday I was at my doctor’s office because I was having disturbing abdominal pain – in the area near my appendix.  Everything she suspected was ruled out.  I wasn’t crazy about leaving town on Sunday, but at least I didn’t have a hot appendix.  I did notice a strange almost painful sensation on my skin on the same side of my hip and abdomen as the interior abdominal pain, but it seemed insignificant compared to the internal pain. I probably didn’t mention it to the ‘doctor for fear she’d think I was a total hypochondriac.  What I didn’t know then was this phase is called the ‘prodrome’ and is when the virus is starting its recurrence in your body.  It occurs for usually for 5 to 7 days before the first bumps. The skin tenderness is one of the classic prodrome symptom list that includes flu-like symptoms and some localized internal pain.

Saturday morning I was dressing and found the first cluster of bumps, about an inch in diameter, on my lower back.  That was a big clue, but I still didn’t believe it.  I was 55 for heaven’s sake and Shingles is an old person’s disease – Gramma was almost 90 when she had it!  After a quick Google search for shingles, I raced to urgent care, where I had to educate the doctor.  Though skeptical, he gave me a prescription for acyclovir which I started taking immediately.  I also bought some spray-on Solarcaine, which helped with the surface pain.  The acyclovir is an anti-viral that helped slow the outbreak, but wasn’t the best choice of drugs. I let my boss know that I wouldn’t be traveling on Sunday.
Sunday was a blur of Solarcaine, pills every 4 hours,  and trying to find some type of clothing that minimized the discomfort.  Finding a comfortable position was also a challenge. Bed rest is a tall order when just the weight of the sheet hurts. Imagine if you were bugging out on foot, with a plan to wear most of you spare clothing and trying to carry a pack when a large swath of your skin feels like it’s on fire and is covered in blisters. If that’s your plan, it might help to be prepared for this little gem!

Monday, I saw my doctor.   The rash was halfway around my abdomen, with some isolated spots starting below my naval.  The breakout was slowed but not stopped because the acyclovir just wasn’t strong enough. She changed the anti-viral meds to Valacyclovir (Valtrex), a much better drug that could be taken less frequently.  She also prescribed Percocet for pain, a week at home (some people in my office had never had chicken pox) and a return visit in a week. The Solarcaine and Percocet allowed me to rest much more comfortably.  I suspect a non-narcotic pain killer would also have made a big difference in the pain, but my doctor decided not to experiment and went for the sure thing.
 
The new anti-viral allowed an almost complete bypass of the nastiest phase of the disease: blisters progressing to open sores and then scabs – shortening the course of the illness by at least two and possibly four weeks.  Also, it reduced the potential for infecting others and for the secondary infections possible with any open sores.  Instead, the rash transitioned to thin, hard skin spots until the crusts washed off in the shower after a couple of weeks.  Sorry if this sounds disgusting, but it is the reality of the disease when modern medicine is not available.

On the return visit, my doctor changed the medications. Gabapentin replaced Percocet, with a primary purpose to help prevent post-herpetic neuralgia – a painful complication that can leave one suffering from pain long after the lesions have healed.  She also prescribed Lidoderm patches to place over areas with healed lesions to reduce the pain. Even with these meds, I still could not tolerate conventional clothing, so I spent another two weeks at home, but was able to telecommute part time.  One discovery I made was that the Lidoderm patches could be cut in half and used essentially as a nerve block by placing just above the top of the band of lesions and along my spine. (Good lesson — I now keep Lidoderm patches in my G.O.O.D. kit and my emergency med bag for non-narcotic emergency pain relief.)  Before that I was uncomfortable plastered with up to 3 patches a day.

So what are my other TEOTWAWKI lessons?  Beyond getting and staying in good shape, and keeping Lidoderm patches handy, I’ll get the Zoster vaccine as soon as I can.  Chaos and stressful surroundings will not be conducive to best self-care.  Many of us will be candidates for shingles with the disabling pain and secondary infection potential if we don’t have the specific meds to manage the disease.

Second is that with or without the vaccine, I’ll keep a shingles kit in my med supplies. I don’t know how long the Zoster vaccine works, or if it can be overcome by the virus in conditions that will be far from the current ‘normal’ life of clean water, climate control and reasonable rest and nutrition.  Otherwise, coping with shingles may not be realistic in a bad or worst-case scenario.  Worst case, my spouse may need it, or someone will need the ‘kit’ and will be willing to trade goods, services or goodwill for it.

My current shingles kit is small but powerful. It  includes the meds above in sufficient quantities to reproduce my experience – 7 days of high doses of Valacyclovir in one pill bottle and in another pill bottle , 7 x 5mg Percocet (half-tablet twice a day for the first week after bumps start) and 30 x 100 mg Gabapentin (1 to 2 per day as long as they last).  These are taped together at the bottoms so they form along tube with the open ends out for easy access, and stored with a bottle of Solarcaine gel and 5 Lidoderm patches (1/3 patch per day for 12 hours) in a plastic zipper bag in the med kit.  Wish I could travel back in time and give Gramma just those few things to have helped her pain!

As I said, I’m not a physician, so what I’ve just related was hard-won personal wisdom.  There are probably better Shingles kits that can be assembled.



Powering Vehicles and Machinery Without Gasoline, by Caspar d’Gonzo

World War II has always fascinated me. I spend a great deal of time reading and researching a wide array of books, articles and Internet sites about this period. To the conquered peoples of Europe and Asia, it must certainly must have seemed like the end of the world as they knew it.

One of the most fascinating aspects of my studies is discovering how individuals and groups in Axis-held countries survived behind enemy lines.  Valuable lessons can be gleaned by looking at the tactics and techniques of underground and partisan groups in France, the Philippines, Yugoslavia, China, Norway, Belgium and many other invaded lands.

Recently, I read a book written by Lt. Colonel Will Irwin, US Army, retired. His book The Jedburghs: The Secret History of the Allied Special Forces, France 1944.  Irwin’s research is excellent; it is a riveting chronicle of secret teams that were dropped deep into Nazi occupied France. Working with local partisans known as “maquis”, the teams conducted a roaming guerrilla war against German forces.

The book revealed that French resistance forces had little or no access to gasoline during this period. The Germans needed every gallon for their own military needs, so many French improvised a technology that — in today’s übermodern high-tech society — has long overlooked.  This technology, gasogene-powered internal combustion engines, became a popular method of fueling cars, trucks, and even buses during late World War II.

Simply defined, standard gasoline-fueled vehicle engines were converted with a wood- or charcoal-burning unit.  The unit did not generate steam for power, but instead it created a combustible gas to run the engine.  Such knowledge had been around since the late 1800s.

The gasogene device is known as a wood gas generator or gasifier by engineers.  This gasification process has all but disappeared in vehicle propulsion in the 21st Century. Gasogene devices create a mixture of nitrogen, hydrogen, methane, carbon monoxide and other, combustible gases. When these are cooled and filtered they can be introduced into an internal combustion engine as an efficient fuel.

In a TEOTWAWKI environment, one quickly realizes that wood, charcoal and other natural items (even coconut husks) would be plentiful and easily acquired.  Having a gasogene powered car, tractor or generator would be a huge advantage in surviving a post-apocalyptic world.

In a FEMA document on powering vehicles through gasification it was noted that “a catastrophic event could disrupt the supply of petroleum in this country so severely that this wood gas generation might be critical in meeting the energy needs of some essential economic activities, such as the production and distribution of food. In occupied Denmark during World War II, 95% of all mobile farm machinery, tractors, trucks, stationary engines, and fishing and ferry boats were powered by wood gas generator units. Even in neutral Sweden, 40% of all motor traffic operated on gas derived from wood or charcoal. All over Europe, Asia, and Australia, millions of gas generators were in operation between 1940 and 1946.”

HOW A GASOGENE UNIT WORKS

Internal combustion engines use gasoline. What many do not realize is that the liquid that we know as gasoline is turned into a vapor and burned as a gas. The technology under the hood converts the liquid form into the gas form.  The vapor is injected into the engine and is explosively burned (combustion).  The same is true for wood gas.  Burning wood in a controlled gasifier creates a combustible vapor that will fire in the engine.

The gasogene creates a chemical process where the superheated vapors evolve into gases that the engine then burns. This is also known as a stratified, downdraft gasifier as the vapors go through four zones within the device and into the engine.

The first zone is at the highest point of the machine.  Because the vapors are drawn down and into the second zone (the downdraft), the first zone is a 20 to 30 gallon metal container positioned atop the second zone, a smaller 10 to 15 gallon container.

The first container might be a small metal trash can or other type of metal box than can hold wood fuel.  This upper container draws in air to aid in the combustion of the wood.  A fire box connects the upper container with the lower metal container.  The fire box is surrounded by open air in the lower container and a metal grate or screen is at the bottom of the fire box.  Burnt wood char and ash fall from this grate into the bottom of the second container.  This container has to be cleaned of all spent ash to keep the process efficient.  This first container stacked above the second container (zones one and two) are the gasification segment.

From the second container a pipe runs to a third container, known as the filter unit. This enclosed container is filled with clean wood chips that act as filter medium to draw off particulates that are moving with the hot vapors in the smoke.  The wood chips draw off these contaminates and a clean stream of hot vapors moves through to the final process.  A blower is located above the third container to maintain air flow.

From the filter unit a longer pipe takes the vapors downstream to the engine manifold.  An air intake valve pulls additional cooler outdoor air to “sweeten” the combustible gases just before entering the engine.  A modifier connection attaches the gasifier pipe to the engine.  A throttle valve is also mounted just before the pipe enters the engine so the flow of fuel can be controlled and help regulate vehicle speed.

Described by a layman, imagine a small metal garbage can mounted above a metal canister about the size of a five-gallon paint bucket. A short pipe connects to a third canister (also the size of a five-gallon bucket. A longer pipe, with throttle and air valve, connects to the engine manifold.

Hundreds of thousands of gasogene engines built during World War II demonstrated that innovation in use of cans, buckets and piping had little or no effect on performance. Clever mechanics used all types of scavenged and jury-rigged components.

Three things are critical to overall success and performance of the gasogene:

A. The most critical element is that the fire tube’s (running into the manifold) inside diameter and length must be carefully matched to the rated horsepower of the engine.

B. The gas generator units and all piping must be totally airtight at all times.

C. Friction must be eliminated in all air and gas passages. This is done by avoiding
sharp bends in the pipe and by employing pipe sizes which are not too small.

SKILLS NEEDED TO CONSTRUCT THE GASOGENE MACHINE

One primary skill will be creating metal connections.  Cutting metal using snips is important.  Bending and brazing pipe is about the most difficult of the work.  It is much a combination of plumbing skills and metalworking — but it is well within the skill set of most people who are moderately familiar with tools.

Having someone with plumbing skills assist makes construction of the device much easier, but not essential.  Many in World War II constructed these fuel generators with basic hand tools, components found in junk yards and assembled in extreme conditions.

OPERATIONAL AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

The Gasogene unit burns wood and this means that frequent cleaning of the wood container and fire box.  Ash and char will fill the lower container under the fire box very quickly.  Starting the wood fuel will take some practice.  Depending upon the engine itself, most units will be able to power an average sized automobile about 15 to 20 miles at regular road speeds.  Shutting down the unit requires a cooling down period.

There are safety considerations that require attention.  The gases produced from the unit are toxic and attention must be paid to ventilation.  Enclosed cars, garages and such must be adequately vented to prevent dangerous build up of toxic gases.  However, the same could be said for traditional gas fueled engines.

Having a container filled with burning wood on a moving vehicle is always a major consideration.  Under normal operating conditions, this is not much of an issue.  But, in the event of an accident it is very important to remember that fire risks are increased.

TAKING THE NEXT STEP

If gasogene is of interest to your future plans for self-sufficiency, it is important to be proactive now.  The good news is there are plenty of resources to give you the exact plans and specifications needed to create an efficient operating gasogene engine.  Kits are available to accelerate the build, but are absolutely unnecessary.

RESOURCE LIST

CONSTRUCTION OF A SIMPLIFIED WOOD GAS GENERATOR
for Fueling Internal Combustion Engines in a Petroleum Emergency
FEMA Document

The absolute best reference was published by FEMA.  It not only covers all of the conceptual aspects of a gasogene-powered engine as well as a complete set of technical plans with parts list.  It is a single-source document that is free and available online as a PDF document.  This should be a part of any document package being assembled for future times.

WOOD GAS AS ENGINE FUEL
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
FAO Forestry Paper 72

This UN document contains 139 pages of technical charts and graphs, scientific analysis and economic data on the potential and reality of wood gas fuels.  It is free as an online PDF.  Interesting for those seeking greater rationale on why wood gas can be an efficient alternative to petroleum in an emergency.

Coast to Coast on Homemade Fuel,’ Mother Earth News (#73) pp, 178-179. Jan/Feb 1982.
Wood Gas Update,’ Mother Earth News (#71) pp. 164-165. Sep/Oct 1981.
Mother’s Woodburning Truck,’ Mother Earth News (#69) pp. 126-129. May/Jun 1981

Some Useful Web Sites

Tacticalwoodgas.com

Gasifyer.com

Mother Earth News Wood Gas Generator Plans ($15.00)



Letter Re: Some Transportation Alternatives

Hi Mr. R.:
I worked in a bike shop for five years up until two years ago and my better half continues to work in a bike shop to this day.

I have to say having a road (or “racing”) bike for when the SHTF is a really bad idea. Road bikes are kind of like the sports cars of the bicycling world. They are not meant to beat upon, you run over or hit the wrong thing on the road or whatever–even gravel–and you could be walking. They eat tires and tubes. I have changed hundreds, maybe a thousand or two road bike tubes, usually  because of a small piece of steel belt from a car tire, or thorns, were embedded in the tire. Kevlar liners help a little. Also, most road bike tires run between 80 to 130 PSI. Pumping them to that pressure can be a chore for the weak or small statured person [, especially when using a small clip-on touring pump].

The most replaced parts on a bike are going to be the tubes, then the tires. From there parts breakage begins to vary widely, I would say the best bike for when the SHTF would have to be a hard tail mountain bike. Skip the road bikes and comfort bikes. In essence: You can ride a Mountain bike anywhere a road bike or comfort bike can go, but not vise versa. Also, as much as I love downhill and free ride bicycles , stay away from these beasts for SHTF, since you most likely will not break one, and if you do you will be broken too (trust me). They are on the opposite end of the spectrum from a road bike. Full suspension is awesome,I love mine, but if I were in a grid down mess, and toasted a pivot bearing, I would then be SOL. There can be lots of pivots and bearings, air shocks, although much much better now than the past can be a a problem.

Bike shop brands are going to be the best bet, but not essential. Up until left the industry a couple of years ago, the majority of big name frames were made by Giant, and then Fuji. So as far as weld quality, they are going to be close. Also, as awesome as Carbon frames and parts are, stay away from them, that carbon framed bike is super strong with riding forces, but lay that bad boy down and pinch the top tube or down tube and you bay get a really big surprise that could cost you a grand or two, and in the SHTF, it will be a total loss (unless you have vacuum  bags and a high heat high pressure autoclave.) Also carbon fiber frames can fail in quite a dramatic fashion, leaving little shards of carbon in you to pick out.

You really do get what you pay for up to a point as far as strength and quality. There is a point you start paying for weight and technology, and that means next to nothing in a grid down situation. I can expand on this in great detail if you would like, this is just the tip of the iceberg, i really do think that in a SHTF situation, bicycles will be essential. – J., Esse Quam Videri



Economics and Investing:

Adam B. sent: An agency-by-agency guide to Obama’s budget. JWR’s Comment: That doesn’t look like much “deficit slashing”, to me!

By way of Ol’ Remus at The Woodpile Report comes a link to some food for thought by Charles Hugh Smith: Why Is Gasoline Consumption Tanking?

Why I’m Taking Gold Double-Eagles On My Next Trip To Utah

Over at The Daily Bell: Now EU Kicking Spain Out of EU?

Items from The Economatrix:

There’s Talk of an Exit – But Default Would Have Catastrophic Consequences

Japanese Economy Shrank in Fourth Quarter

The Economy Relies on the Suspension of Disbelief

Greece and the Return of the Economic Death Spiral



Odds ‘n Sods:

AmEx (American Expat) sent this: Report: Russia Nuclear Disaster Narrowly Averted In Submarine Fire

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Over at Alt-Market: Going Off Grid – Montana Style!

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South Carolina bill would make home invasion a specific crime. (Thanks to Sue C. for the link.)

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Alan H. pointed me to a portable, easy to build 8’x12′ greenhouse for under $150. JWR’s Comment: Ah yes, hog panels, 101 uses…

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My wife Avalanche Lily alerted me to to an object lesson that went viral: The Dad Who Shot Up His Daughter’s Laptop Computer.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“A wild boar stood under a tree, and rubbed his tusks against the trunk. A fox passing by asked him why he thus sharpened his teeth when there was no danger threatening from either huntsman or hound. He replied, ‘I do it advisedly; for it would never do to have to sharpen my weapons just at the time I ought to be using them.’ To be well prepared for war is the best guarantee of peace.”  – The Fables of Aesop