Out of the Neighborhood and Into a Community, by J.N.

As a firearms enthusiast, I have spent far too much time reading gun-related forums.  The collective knowledge of the larger forums is amazing and far outweighs the poorly thought-out words of the few ignorant posters who have nothing to add.  Often, after catching up on my favorite firearm sections, I find myself checking out the survival/preparedness sub-forums that the major firearms forums all seem to have.  Limited on the depth of their information, I usually hop over and research a topic on survival-specific forums and blogs where the levels of knowledge and experience are at much higher standards.

The topics at theses survival postings are often well thought out and useful.  I have learned much about preparing and have taken steps to insulate my family from TEOTWAWKI.  However, I often laugh at the subjects and the false sense of security that some posters think they have once they pack a simple Bug-Out Bag stocked with a weapon, 72 hours of food, and a first aid kit.  Often posters brag about their hunting prowess or talk about the seeds they have that will apparently grow with Jack and the Beanstalk fervor.  They also usually have a ‘spot’ somewhere in the woods near a creek where they can hunt, fish, and get fresh water.  Although this sounds somewhat utopian, especially considering the hypothetical civilization meltdown that is happening elsewhere, I can only muse at the serous lack of thought that many put into their survival plans.

I may hurt some feelings with this, but, in the event of a major emergency, I believe many those who think they have prepared for a TEOTWAWKI event will be sadly mistaken.  If your plan is to hop in your vehicle with your Bug-Out Bag and head to your spot on a creek and live out the rest of your life happily hunting and living off the land, your logic may be fatally flawed.  More than likely, you will soon die next to that creek and the only thing that will be well-fed and thriving will be buzzards as they consume your carcass.  Do you think I’m being too harsh?  Compared to trying to feed yourself in the woods, I’m being pretty easy on you.

First off, thinking you can hunt enough animals to eat is a fantasy steeped in self-delusion.  Just because you can routinely bag your limit every hunting season does not mean you can do this year-round.  In reality, how many animals are in an area?  How many will you kill before they move elsewhere?  Besides, meat spoils quickly.  Unless you smoke the meat, how long will a 100-pound deer carcass lay around before it poisons you?  In summer heat, how long will it last?  A day or two at the most?  In the warmer months can you harvest an animal every two days?  Even rodents and squirrels will get scarce soon and your snares will hang empty.  The animals are smart, they will quickly move out of your range.  What then? 

Another subject that is often brought up is a garden.  Bags of survival seeds are bought with the idea that a garden is as simple as tossing out some seeds and watching them grow.  The last gun show I attended had a booth with a guy selling raw wheat by the pound.  The simple fact is, if the garden isn’t growing right now, or last year’s harvest isn’t in cans in a dark closet somewhere, you will starve as you wait for the seeds to germinate.  A garden will only work when you are working a year ahead.  Even if a garden is growing now, harvest seasons are quick and usually simultaneous.  Will you be ready to reap it all when everything matures at the same time, or will it spoil before you can store it properly?  Thinking a simple garden is your means of survival is another losing proposal. 

Running a close second to Bug-Out Bag discussions are the ever-popular Bug-Out Vehicle threads.  They are usually the escape pod of an urbanite and typically take the form of a pickup or sport utility, with big V-8s, knobby tires, and enough cans of fuel to get to the previously-mentioned ‘spot’ next to the creek.  I used to have this same mentality: something bad happens, urban chaos erupts, I load the SUV with my family and supplies and head out of town. 

This all changed by a freak ice storm that struck the Raleigh area a few years ago.  The meteorologists had all said a slight precipitation event was coming through, but don’t worry, it was not cold enough to freeze.  Unfortunately, they were off by a few degrees.  The unexpected layer of ice formed quickly in the middle a workday.  Sensing the impending traffic nightmare, I left work a few minutes after the icy drizzle began.  Working only five miles from my wife, I called her and told her I was coming by to pick her up so she wouldn’t have to drive her sports car in the worsening conditions.  By the time I was a mile away from my work, the highways formed a thin but slippery layer of ice.  I can still vividly recall a FedEx truck sliding down at me from an off ramp and bouncing off a few cars before it slid off the ice-covered pavement. 

Oddly, within a few minutes the temperature had risen and the ice on the road melted, but not before they cancelled all the schools and everyone left their workplaces at the exact same time.  The gridlock that ensued was epic.  Overloaded cell phone networks shut down and all callers could hear was a busy signal.  It took me four hours to travel five miles to my wife’s work.  To save fuel, I turned off my car until I could move at least fifty yards, which only happened every few minutes.  The guy behind me didn’t like my technique and honked his horn and angrily passed me on the sidewalk just to gain a few more inches.   Panicked parents, trying to pick up their kids at schools, drove on the sidewalks, knocking down signs and bouncing off light poles.  Impatient people honked horns and began bumping the cars ahead of them.  I saw dozens of people abandon their car and start walking.  The guy who angrily passed me later ran out of gas and someone helped him push his car up on the sidewalk.  

Figuring that the traffic would clear within a few hours, my wife and I walked over to a restaurant and watched the clogged mass of cars crawl by at a glacier’s pace.  At midnight, we decided to begin our trip home.  Usually the eight-mile commute took less than fifteen minutes.  Seven hours after our journey began the rising sun greeted us the next morning as we finally pulled into our driveway.  Vehicles of every type, stacked bumper-to-bumper littered the shoulders of the roads.  With their cars out of gas, people had to knock on the doors of a stranger to ask them for a place to stay.  It was amazing how such a minor event has completely shut down an entire region.  What if something really bad happened?  What if they were running from a deadly threat?  How much worse would the panic have been?  Do you now see the fallacy of a Bug-Out Vehicle, especially if you live in a populated area?  Raleigh is pretty small, after all.  What would it have been like in a major metro area like Atlanta or Chicago.

Right about now you are probably wondering what the point of this article is.  Why do I seem so fatalistic and seem to make light of preparedness?  Let me assure you that I have put a lot of time into the above thoughts.  Yes, I have a well-stocked Bug-Out Bag that will sustain my family for 72 hours.  I also have firearms, ammo, med supplies, food, water, etc.  I even have a decent Bug-Out Vehicle.  I am far from labeling survival items as useless and encourage my non-prepared friends to acquire the requisite survival basics.  What I am advocating, however, is to take an honest look at not only the relatively narrow focus on survival, but the broader view of a decent quality of life for you and your loved ones.  How is this done?  I’m glad you asked.

My dad is one of the best-prepared people I know.  If TEOTWAWKI happens, he’s in good shape.  Does he have a Bug-Out Bag?  No.  Does he have a ‘spot’ near the creek?  Close, but no.  A large population of deer?  Used to, until the coyote population exploded.   How about a Bug-Out Vehicle?  Nope, just an old pickup truck.  Assault rifles and stockpiles of ammo? Not really, a few guns and some ammo.  I’ll bet you are wondering why I consider him so well-prepared.  Well, let me tell you a little about him.

My dad is a grain farmer in coastal North Carolina.  On average he produces 1,500 tons of grain every year.  At any given time, he has 10,000 bushels of corn or soybeans stored (right now he has his grain bins full of soybeans that he will sell before mid-August when he begins harvesting his corn).  He keeps a 1,000 gallon tank of diesel full year-round.  Across the road from his farm is a 25,000-head pig farm.  On the other side is a seven-pond fish farm with hundreds of thousands of fish.  His closest neighbor, who lives a mere mile away, raises goats and chickens.  Dad has a capped water well in his backyard and a pitcher pump in storage.  His house was built as the centerpiece of a plantation in 1834 and has four fireplaces and a winter’s supply of firewood.  The house sits in the middle of a square-mile block (640 acre) of farmland. [Some deleted, for OPSEC.] He collects and uses primitive hand and farm tools as a hobby. 

Most importantly, my Dad has a network of friends that range from doctors to diesel mechanics to manual laborers and police officers.  All of whom are armed and can act as a manual labor and defensive force.  Without trying, he has prepared for a myriad of society-changing events.  His simple agrarian lifestyle harkens back to the society of 200 years ago.  If everything in our society falls apart, his farm would be the center of a small, agrarian community working together to both feed and defend itself, as well as having the social interactions that would give a decent quality of life.  It would not be a modern life that we are accustomed to, one would tire of eating fish, pork, and soybeans, after all, but it would far better than starving to death next to your ‘spot.’ So, after long discussions with my wife, we have decided to get out of the city and move back to the farm.  I will be taking over the family farm this spring and I already have a small plot set aside for long-term, storable foods like dry beans and open pollinating corn.  Of course, career options will be a bit limited living in a rural area, but actually living as simply as possible should offset any loss in income.  I think it is worth it.

I have already begun networking in my new community, expanding the circle of people my dad has already established.  Growing up in the community gives me an advantage when it comes to navigation and personal connections.  My new house is within walking distance of two of my best friends from high school who already have a good grasp on the survivor’s mentality. 
One of them is the son of the goat and chicken farmer I mentioned earlier.  He has agreed to trade me a couple of goats and chickens for a supply of shelled corn.  He also has a broad skill set that includes carpentry and wiring.  I have seen him repair electrical devices that all others had given up hope on.  He also keeps horses in his pastures that could theoretically be used to pull some of the antique farm machinery my dad has collected over the years, but I really hope it never comes to that.  His skill with an AK-47 is rather well-honed too.   

My other friend lives a bit further away but the distance is still less than an hour’s walk through the woods from my house.  He was awakened to how fragile our society is many years ago and began preparing back then.  He moved into a hundred and fifty-year-old cottage complete with a working fireplace, several old barns, and a very fertile one-acre garden, all of which cost him less than fifty thousand dollars. 

Since moving there, he has constructed a greenhouse and is in the process of growing exotic (for North Carolina) fruits such as papayas and mangoes.  His first greenhouse is doing so well he has another one ordered.  (My love of guacamole has me trying to convince him to plant some dwarf avocado trees.)  Next to his garden he drilled a well and attached a pitcher pump to it.  He had set up one of the barns for storage and has a good amount of long-shelf-life food, including a large supply of canned food from last year’s garden harvest.  This season I have agreed to raise a variety of dry beans and open pollinated corn in order to trade them to him for some of his fruit and vegetables.

Between the three of us, we can focus on our own specialties of dry grains, livestock, and fruits and vegetables, allowing us to barter and trade our goods without having to spread ourselves too thin by trying to individually produce a variety of food.  Getting together for camping trips and frequent range sessions with a variety of weaponry is key to building both skills and friendship.      
So, instead of theorizing about Bug-Outs or hunting and gathering skills, I suggest getting out of urban and suburban environments and move to a rural area that is far enough away from population concentrations to inhibit a visit from roaming hoards.  Buy an old house with fireplaces and make sure it has enough land to plant a substantial garden.  Along with a garden, learn to raise small numbers of livestock, especially something simple like egg-laying chickens.  Living to see that first harvest will require a lot of stored food.  Construct or convert easily-secured buildings to store substantial food and water supplies, especially since you will be staying put and not likely be bugging out to somewhere else.  If you have a skill or produce something of value, let your neighbors know and barter your goods with them.  If you don’t have marketable skills, learn one.  Local community colleges often have classes of value in this respect.  Once you learn a skill, have plenty of the supplies related to those skills on hand.  Passing yourself off as a welder without having numerous cylinders of welding gasses and lots of welding and brazing rod would be a tough sale.  

The most important thing is move to an area of like-minded people and make friends now.  No one will trust you after a major event unless they knew you prior.  Get to know the people in your community and network with them.  Churches, hunt clubs, and small outreach organizations are a good place to meet people.  Befriend a local family farmer and begin to barter with him.  Typically, they are willing to trade dry grain for labor, services, and shiny things, specifically gold and silver.

From my experience the rural mindset is a lot more accepting of a survivalist mentality due to their isolated proximity and frequent interruptions in power and communication.  Compared to most neighborhood home owner’s groups, they also seem to be a lot more tolerant of crowing roosters, manure-fed gardens, and unsightly windmills.  Most importantly, stop fooling yourself with a false sense of preparation and make a plan to thrive with a community of like-minded people.  It will likely take major changes and sacrifices in your life, but it sure beats starving to death alone in farming country.



Letter Re: Sugar and Salt Storage

Dear SurvivalBlog Editor:
I’m running out of storage room for my food storage.  Would sugar or salt stored in mylar bags and food grade bucket with a gasket lid deteriorate if stored in a hot, humid environment, (such as garage)?  Thank you for any advice you could offer. Take care, – Stephanie K.

JWR Replies: The beauty of salt and sugar is that they are “self-storing” and can have extremely long useful storage lives (potentially centuries) if they are protected from moisture. Just a bit of humid air and inadequate packaging will turn either of them into solid bricks, fairly quickly. If this occurs they can of course be broken up with hammer and chisel or dissolved with tap water, but that can be inconvenient and messy, particularly when you have the former granules stored in seven gallon super pails! Furthermore, without a good vapor seal, both sugar and salt can pick up undesirable odors, depending on where they are stored. Never store them near chlorine bottles, solvents, any petrochemicals, or any foods with strong aromas. (One exception is proximity to vanilla beans, but only if you want to have some vanillated sugar, for Liege waffles or other recipes.)

A food grade HDPE bucket with a good intact rubber seal should be sufficient for storing salt and sugar for just a few months.But a sealed mylar liner adds a layer of protection that is important for long term storage. Since HDPE is gas permeable over a long period of time, a mylar liner is recommended. (Mylar is 99% impermeable.) You can either buy mylar liners with zip-lock tops, or plain bags, and heat seal them. (The latter method takes a special tool that is fairly expensive.)

Similarly, honey has an extremely long shelf life. If it is stored in glass jars it should be protected from sunlight. When honey eventually (and inevitably) crystallizes, all that is needed is to apply low heat in a double boiler, to restore it to a palatable liquid form.

Storage temperatures encountered in a residential garage (as high as 120 degrees ) are generally not detrimental to sugar, salt, or honey. But again, moist air can be a big problem for sugar and salt.

A further consideration for salt is that if it is improperly stored in damp air, the salt vapor will induce rust on any nearby ferrous metals.



Letter Re: Some Useful Mapping Web Sites

James,
I’m sending you a link to some detailed maps of the world based on detailed data: several basic variables such as average precipitation, temperature variables, population, earth lights (and change in earth lights over time), biomass maps (vegetation) and more. Some linked pages contain data that can be used in virtual globes such as NASA World Wind.

If you explore the various links, you can find a wealth of high quality data that could be used in a long term grid down/other scenario where this basic world information could be very useful for travel, and more. This can also be used to “homeschool” children and adults in some basic high quality facts about how this planet operates.

Here are some examples:

Google Earth KMZ file for the whole earth colored topo in detail.

Highly detailed climate data that can be imported into a GIS program.

Explore with web searches for more.

Other data is out there, such as the TRMM detailed rainfall data from NASA.

Their references to “millions of years ago” are unscientific, but the data is very helpful.

Sincerely, – Calvin R.



Two Letters Re: A First-Timer’s Cider Making

Good Day Sir,
I would like to add a few comments to that excellent primer on cider making.

First, If you skip all of the picking and crushing to buy the fresh unpasteurized sweet cider, be aware that some places (companies and regular people) add potassium sorbate to the final product. This inhibits the growth of bacteria. On top of that, it keeps yeast from growing. The best way to overcome this is to starter. Add your yeast to a small container (with airlock) a cup of water and a half a cup of
sugar. Let this ferment for a day or two. Most dry yeasts need a healthy environment to first reanimate and reproduce. Once you have a small army of budding yeast, they’re ready to hit the cider!

Secondly, I would recommend talking to your favorite/local coffee shop. Most syrups and flavorings come in glass, 750ml screw-top bottles. They’re mostly getting tossed in the trash, so my shop was happy to leave a box or two on the back stoop every other night. The seal holds well (I make carbonated drinks too) and are reusable.

Thank you again for a wonderful trove of information in SurvivalBlog, – Jim S.

 

JWR:
From the outset, the author mentions that if you get your apples, even from a local farm that you will most likely get traces of chemicals in your apples. That may be true but there are plenty of farmers out there that are “organic certified”. In my opinion that statement was a little broad for my liking. I, myself grow for the local farmers market and although not “organically certified” grow all my produce following the organic guidelines and will not treat a crop with OMRI certified products unless I have to. I consume the exact same produce that I am selling you and do not want to eat the chemicals anymore than you do! I firmly believe that using sustainable agricultural practices is better for the environment and the land I use to make my food and income, rather than destroying it for future growing needs. Chemical free produce is a growing trend and feel that it is fairly easy to find that type of produce rather than assuming your getting my chemicals in your apple. Whose going to feed you when SHTF and your supplies run out? Why I am! Because I love what I do, want to give you an exceptional healthy product and will be consuming it also. Trust your farmer, and eat local! – Scott M.



Economics and Investing:

Drockton:  Inflation And Economic Collapse

15 Potentially Massive Threats To The U.S. Economy Over The Next 12 Months

European Banks Now Face Huge Margin Calls As ECB Collateral Crumbles. JWR’s Comment: Just as I warned you! This may cause a sharp sell-off of stocks, bonds, and precious metals, as everyone scrambles for cash, to cover margin calls. Look at this as a great buying opportunity. (Theoretically, silver could briefly plunge to $22.52 per ounce.) Keep cash on hand and be ready to pounce on some physical silver.

Items from The Economatrix:

Three Charts Of The US Consumption Crash Dead Ahead

Wall Street Marks First Big Loss Of 2012

Gold Falls 2%, Breaches Support On Greece Fears

Oil Falls To $123, Supply Fears Easing



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader Rick B. recommended a complete planting guide for green beans over at How To Gardener. It includes some state specific varieties and planting dates, nutrition facts, planting tips, watering, fertilizing, harvesting, insect and disease information.

   o o o

A reminder reminder that Ready Made Resources’ sale on Mountain House canned freeze dried foods ends on March 14th, so order soon. You’ll get a 25% discount and free shipping on case lots.

   o o o

H.B. and several other readers sent this: Utah on verge of passing bill demanding Feds relinquish public land. Unfortunately, the Federal highway funds will probably be used as a weapon, just as past administration have done whenever 10th Amendment issues have been substantively raised above the level of mere rhetoric.

   o o o

F.G. sent us this: Police Drone Crashes into Police

   o o o

Lee M. sent this bit of encouraging news: Maryland Gun Law Found Unconstitutional





Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 39 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



A First-Timer’s Cider Making, by The Gentleman Fahma in New Hamsha

If you live in apple country, you have a wonderful resource readily available for pre- and post-TEOTWAWKI. All it takes is some up front costs for equipment, and your labor and desire. The process is simple. I’m speaking of producing fresh apple cider for immediate enjoyment or trade, and hard cider for delayed enjoyment, stockpiling, or trade. Thus, you can easily acquire a valuable skill for post-WTSHTF. A nice thing is you can gradually ramp up your expense and involvement.

You can:

  • Buy the fermenting equipment and use purchased fresh unpasteurized sweet cider, skipping the expensive apple crusher and press and all the hard work
  • Buy all the equipment and use purchased apples
  • Go all-in like we did, buying all the junk and picking our own apples

[Be aware that if you buy apples or sweet cider, even from a local farm, you will probably be getting traces of fungicides and pesticides. But no doubt the fruit will be big and beautiful.]

As we start, it is late summer at the recently-acquired Gentleman’s Farm (to say it like a local it is ‘fam’ as in ‘wham’), and we are finally in a position to get prepared “for real.” The vegetable garden is producing nicely. The grapevines, though they grew like crazy, yielded only a handful of ripe grapes, dashing our immediate hopes of wine making. Next year remember to prune! We have two robust but neglected apple trees in the orchard, and an ancient and very neglected one at the stone wall by the road. Plus, my next door neighbor has two ancient giants, and is thrilled to have the apples picked so there are fewer for him to pick up off his manicured lawn. None have been sprayed, at least not in recent history. The apples come forth all on their own. Now, I’m not saying they are beauties. In fact they are the sorriest-looking apples you could imagine—malformed and spotted—the stuff of a supermarket produce manager’s nightmares. But they contain juice, and that is all we care about.

So our cider-making adventures can be illustrated in stages. The first stage is “gather hardware.” The major hardware is:

  • Fermenting equipment and supplies
  • Apple picker
  • Apple crusher
  • Apple press

I am not a big fan of single-purpose equipment. Fortunately, most of this is multi-purpose.

First we bought the fermenting supplies. A local brewing supply store was our source. This equipment can also be used for beer and wine making, so the costs can be spread out over those purposes, and we intend to do so. All are good skills post-TEOTWAWKI. We bought the True Brew K6 Beer Equipment Kit, which contains a 5 gallon plastic primary-fermentation tank, glass secondary-fermentation carboy, airlock, siphon, cleaning brush, thermometer, hydrometer, 8-pack of C-Brite sanitizer, and a bottle capper. The cost was about $128. Another $50 bought us a carboy spray wand, a carboy carrier, a gross of bottle caps, and yeast.

Next up was a fruit picker. This is nothing more than a small, fingered wire basket on the end of a telescoping pole. We needed it because the trees have gotten tall from lack of pruning. It can be used on our other fruit trees, so it is not really single-purpose. We bought the Flexrake LRB190 on Amazon for $32 with free shipping, and were impressed with its quality.

Then the big outlays began. We needed a crusher and a press. The crusher is necessary for fully pressing apples. Whole or even quartered apples won’t disgorge all their juice. This tool unfortunately is only single-purpose. The press by itself will be fine for grapes and other soft fruits (and thus is multi-purpose), but for apple-pressing there has to be some pre-processing.

So, how to choose? Best of all would have been real vintage but working farm examples. I could not find any. A gentleman named Herrick Kimball that operate WhizBang Cider sells plans and parts for an innovative crusher utilizing a garbage disposal. The result comes out like applesauce and should be super-easy to press. But there was no time to build anything, you have to buy a new disposal (who’d want to use an old one?) and anyway, in a grid-down situation I think you’d be out of luck there. He also sells plans and parts for a press that uses an automobile jack. You have to see it.

In the end, I went with a crusher and press purchased from Cabela’s, figuring they would stand behind their offerings if need be. I read the mostly favorable reviews and made the decision. Here’s where it gets crazy. When I first looked them up in the Fall 2010 catalog, the crusher was $169.99 and the press $199.99. Imagine my shock when ordering online in Summer 2011 and finding the crusher at $229.99 ($60 increase) and the press on sale for $234.99 ($35 increase), regular price $329.99 (would have been $130 increase.) A huge increase in just one year! Oh right, there’s no inflation. Shipping added another $40 or so. Also be aware that the actual product delivered is somewhat different from the picture—the press in the picture stands taller (it shows a pitcher under the spout to catch the cider, but the delivered model can only accommodate a saucepan), and the ratchet assembly is enameled in the picture but the actual is plated steel.

Both arrived promptly and just in time for harvest. I was disappointed but not surprised to find they are Chinese-made. Makes you wonder what Chinese workers think they are making, given the strange products they ship us. But this stuff looked fairly well made and solid. They are marketed by Weston Supply.

The crusher comes almost completely pre-assembled unless you want to switch it to a wall-mounted unit. For the default bench-mounting, all you have to do is attach the flywheel to the shaft and install the stainless-steel chute. The latter is a bit of a design flaw, in my opinion. Unless you have really small hands it is difficult to reach in to insert the mounting screws. The Lady Fahma to the rescue! For bench-mounting, it even comes with two robust C-clamps. We attached it to a granite counter in the wood shop room of the barn, and it never moved or slipped during the entire crushing operation.

The press needs no assembly beyond threading the ratchet assembly onto the jack screw and clamping together the two halves of the pressing tub. It uses a Jenga-like stack of hardwood blocks that you gradually add above the pressing plates (also hardwood) to keep the ratchet handle from contacting the top of the tub as you crank it down. Seemed pretty simple. One cheap-out is it comes bolted to a cardboard-like floor plate. We will probably change that to something more robust next year.

You could do a lot more homework than we did, and maybe find something perfect. Actually, revisiting the WhizBang Cider site, I see there are links to other sites that offer interesting press configurations. One of them shows the press that I bought, but apparently under a different name—who knows?

The second stage is “gather apples.” Here you could trot off to the local orchard or farm stand if you lack your own trees. I’ve already described our sad trees and fruit. Saturday morning, September 10, we began to pick. We were not shy about utilizing salvageable ‘drops’ either—there is some controversy about this, because of the threat of bacteria. We knew we were going to heat the cider to kill off or discourage the wild yeasts, so we figured that would take care of bacteria too, and what was left, alcohol would stifle. Campden tablets, which add sulphur dioxide to the mix, could also have been used, and we might try that next year. Only one of our younger trees has its variety labeled, and it is good old red McIntosh—my favorite. The other younger tree has tart hard green apples, and the ancient tree looks like the old variety called Pippin—they are green. The neighbor’s apples also look to be McIntosh. We worked around the trees, using the picker for higher fruit. Even then, there were a number we couldn’t reach. By the time a few hours passed I had developed a good case of Aircraft Spotter’s Neck. We picked 4 bushels by noon, then spent a good amount of time washing them (just plain water). We had read that a bushel of applies can yield 2 or more gallons of cider. With our 4 bushels, we thought we might have as much as 10 gallons, so we quickly bought another fermentation tank, carboy, and airlock.

The third stage is “press apples.” This is the hardest part of the process. On Sunday morning, the next day, we began to cut up the apples for the crusher. We learned right away that the pieces have to be small, very small. Otherwise the crusher barely touched them as they passed through, and the press couldn’t do much with them. So we began a routine. The Lady Fahma did the cutting, I ran them through the crusher, and we tossed the crush into the press as soon as we thought we had enough for a full pressing basket. No doubt about it, the press, or this particular one anyway, is a two-person job. Keeping the blocks straight while turning the ratchet assembly is the main trick. And once you crank down to where the ratchets engage you really have to apply force, which means the press has to be steadied. But there’s a wonderful feeling when the juice starts to run out. As the day went on, we learned how to get more and more juice from each press. We learned to keep some of the last pressing’s pomace in the basket when adding fresh crush—I don’t know why, but it seemed to work better. So we kept cutting, crushing, pressing, pouring through a sieve into the heating vat, and dumping the pomace into the compost pile, for the better part of a day. Miraculously no injuries were reported. Speaking of pomace, next year I’d like to save it and distill it into apple grappa (grapple?), for industrial purposes only of course.

I found something I did not like about the press: the ratchets are removable plated wedges that fit into holes in the wheel of the ratchet assembly. I think we applied so much force that they began to wear—sending a tiny amount of metal dust onto the blocks. Probably very little to none got through to the pressings, but to be sure I had to wipe off the plates after each press.

What were our results? We yielded just 5 gallons of dark, rich, tangy sweet cider. Not very impressive, and half what we expected. It had to be the quality of the apples. But we were still proud. Since we had anticipated 10 gallons and had the extra equipment, The Lady Fahma ran to the farm stand and procured 5 gallons of their unpasteurized cider. The cost was about $30. Now if you think the 2 days labor for 2 people it took to make our own 5 gallons should be worth more than $30, you are not in the preparedness mindset! We prefer to think we are skill-building, like spending money on firearms training or a wilderness survival course.

Cleanup of the crusher and press was fairly easy; just rinsing with water from a garden nozzle. Obviously let the parts dry before putting away. After drying, I applied mineral oil to the parts I thought might rust in storage. The barn floor was a disaster from spills, but in the end was not that difficult to clean.

If you are just making sweet cider, stop here. The result is wonderful, but will not keep very long without preservatives, and even then not for much longer. Enjoy it while you can.

Conversely, if you have bought sweet cider and want to make hard, start here!

Stage four extends over weeks but is not difficult—turn the sweet cider into hard. Starting as we did in mid-September, our goal is to begin drinking it by Thanksgiving, meaning we want it to age a fair amount. There are many sources of information on hard cider-making, and many conflicting opinions, particularly when chemists weigh in. I found what I think are the easiest beginner’s instructions online at Mother Earth News (http://www.motherearthnews.com/Real-Food/2007-10-01/How-to-Make-Hard-Cider.aspx ). Really, the process is simple and basically comes down to “add yeast and let it sit.” Just remember all equipment has to be sanitized.

On pressing day we heated the cider to about 170 degrees F— do not let it boil! While doing this we added 2 pounds of brown sugar to our own cider. This became “Batch A.” The bought cider seemed sweeter so we let it be. This became “Batch B.”  Then we let them cool to about room temperature. This can take longer than you expect, but can be greatly speeded up by putting the kettles in baths of ice and water.

We had two varieties of yeast to try. Batch A received a granulated champagne yeast that is supposed to make a drier-tasting cider. Batch B received a liquid cider yeast that also produces a dry product but supposedly lets the fruit show through. The liquid yeast is about 3 times more expensive, by the way.

We knew we were introducing too many variables—different cider sources, sugar amounts, and different yeasts–but that’s part of the fun.

Once cool, we poured the two batches into their own fermentation tanks and stirred in the yeasts. We secured the lids and placed the airlocks. That was the end of a long but satisfying day.

Our huge amateur mistake: neglecting to get a base measurement of specific gravity with the hydrometer. We thus cannot determine what the alcohol content is in the finished product. We’ll have to do it the old fashioned way, by drinking it and seeing the results!

End of Week 1. The airlocks are happily bubbling, meaning the yeasts are active, converting sugars to alcohol as they have done for millennia, noble companions to mankind as they are. It smells heavenly. Batch B was so active it actually bubbled up into the airlock. Being in the uninsulated barn it is hard to maintain constant temperature, though it never was especially hot or cold. But temperature is obviously another variable that would be good to control if you can.

End of Week 2. Bubbling has slowed down considerably. Using a sanitized “thief” (another handy gadget), we taste-test both tanks. Batch A is already quite dry and pleasant, and has paled somewhat. Batch B is extremely tart—lemony, almost. I find it pleasant, but The Lady Fahma is afraid we are on our way to apple cider vinegar—not a bad thing to have, though 5 gallons is probably a lot. I am hoping her fears are unfounded. Time will tell! They both seem to taste of alcohol. We replace the lids and wait.

End of Week 3. It’s now October 1. Still some bubbling. It is “racking” time. Racking is nothing more than siphoning the cider from the primary plastic fermentation tanks to the secondary glass carboys. This really is just for aging and allowing the yeast gunk to further settle out. Washing and sanitizing the carboys was pretty easy thanks to the sprayer wand that attaches to the clothes washing machine faucet. The siphon’s start is greatly assisted with the adding of a little water to the tube.

The difference in appearance between the two batches is striking—Batch A is a rich orange brown. Batch B is like homemade chicken broth. As the weather is cooling we should be fine leaving the carboys in the barn. After placing the airlocks, we poked holes in the bottoms of two black plastic trash bags and draped them over the carboys, leaving the airlocks free to vent. This is our solution to keeping them in the dark.

Of course, we left a little out of each to taste. Batch B, which was so lemony last week, has really toned down. I think it will be fine. Batch A is a little more complex. We’re really curious how 7 or 8 weeks of aging (in both carboy and bottle) will change them.

During the intervening weeks, and before, we have been busy “accumulating” empty beer bottles, if you know what I mean. Having made 10 gallons of cider, we figured we needed around 106 twelve-ounce bottles and probably less. You need the long neck kind with pry-off caps—no screw tops. The brewmaking shop guy told me that Samuel Adams brand beer bottles were the best to use: they are heavier and the labels come off more easily. Not a problem—Sam Adams is my favorite commercial brew. Note you can also buy empty bottles from the brewmaking shop—though they cost only slightly less per case than bottled beer! Another tip from the shop—soaking the empty bottles in a solution of OxiClean will get the labels off even easier.

The bottles were rinsed and stored as we (well, I) consumed the beer. When we had accumulated enough we soaked them as recommended, and I peeled off the labels while The Lady Fahma, with her patient hands, scrubbed off any remaining stickum. Wear gloves. Here’s another tip—an empty, sanitized dishwasher makes an excellent draining/drying rack for bottles.

End of Week 8. It’s now November 6—bottling day! The previous day we moved the carboys into the kitchen, so they could settle back down overnight from any sloshing. Today we sanitized everything in C-Brite: the (original) plastic fermentation bucket with spout, bottles, siphon, caps. Then everything was rinsed and drained. We wore “examination” gloves during the whole process. We wanted sparkling cider, so continuing the above recipe, we planned to add a little sugar. This is supposed to revive the yeasts while in the bottle. Starting with Batch A, we put ¾ cup brown sugar into solution, poured it into the bucket, then siphoned the carboy. You unfortunately must leave an inch or so in the carboy because of sedimentation. Next we filled the bottles from the bucket’s spout. It was made easier as a two-person job—one working the spout, one handling the bottles. There was very little spillage; in fact, the whole process went amazingly smoothly. After the bottles were filled, we capped them using the capping tool supplied in the True Brew kit, which worked very well. After wiping down the bottles, we put them into cases. Batch A yielded 45 bottles—slightly less than two cases. Taking a break, we started Batch B using the same process. It yielded 46 bottles. With clean-up, the whole bottling procedure took less than 4 hours. The “residue” in the carboys was strained through cheesecloth and chilled so we could sample our creations today. Batch A was sweeter and seemed more “apple-y.” Batch B was tart. Both were extremely pleasant. The next step is to wait a few weeks for carbonation (hopefully) to occur; but if it does not, we should at least have pleasant still cider.

End of Week 10. It’s now November 20. We sample a bottle from each batch. Batch A has little carbonation. Batch B is fully sparkling. The Lady Fahma, with her discriminating palette, made tasting notes. “Batch A is still dark like fresh cider, with a slightly yeasty, fresh apple nose. There is a clean apple-lemon, slightly floral finish, with crisp acidity. Despite its color, it is dry. Batch B is light and clear in color with a tangy apple nose, in a champagne style. There are light apple and pear flavors that are complex and slightly bitter. It too has a clean finish and is dry.” My tasting notes, demonstrating the sophistication of my palette, are “they both taste pretty durn good.” I would say that Batch B tastes more like the commercially-produced hard cider I’ve had.

Again, not measuring the alcohol content was a major mistake. I get the feeling, though, that both batches have some potency.

Just for fun, we created bottle labels on the computer and printed them on an inkjet printer. A package of 150 Avery 8164 shipping labels (6 on a sheet) cost about $8 and fit the bottles perfectly. This is a totally optional step but gives you a chance to personalize and show off your creation.

Thanksgiving Day. We proudly served both batches to our guests. When asked to choose, they were about equally divided. Even The Lady Fahma and I disagree, she preferring ‘B’ while I prefer ‘A.’ While demonstrating that overall our project is a success, it does make it difficult to decide which yeast to use next year.

Perhaps as we continue to drink our cider one will emerge a clear winner.

True SHTF Considerations

Some supplies may not be readily available if things get bad. You may have to stock up now, or workarounds will be necessary.

  • Bottle caps: if caps are not available, the handy 12 ounce bottle will be useless, but jugs or barrels can be employed. One beer-making book states that plastic 2-liter soda bottles can be filled with beer and capped with the original plastic cap; if so, you could certainly use them for even sparkling cider. Undoubtedly there will always be zillions of them around
  • Sanitizer: packages of C-Brite and/or bleach can be stocked up. When that runs out I am not sure what to use, other than boiling water
  • Yeast: yeast is such an essential part of our food supply it is difficult to imagine life without it. Since it is perishable, stocking up in large quantities is not really practical For apple cider, it is possible to let wild yeasts naturally present do the job, but the results will be unpredictable at best
  • Sugar: honey could be used for extra yeast activation, or just ensure that the apples you use are as sweet as can be. It may be difficult to make sparkling hard cider without extra sugars

As I finish this piece it is a snowy evening in late winter, six months from the start of the project. I permit myself a sample of each batch from our still-plentiful supply. Batch “A” has gained more sparkle, proving that it is a living thing—amazing! Batch “B’ hasn’t changed much. The “glow” I feel may be more than the warm feelings of the positive aspects of preparing.



Communications: Why You Should Get Your Ham Radio License, by M.G.

I admit it. I’m woefully unprepared.  Recent events have caused me to “wake up”, much like Neo in The Matrix who takes the “red pill” and awakens to the painful reality.  When you first awaken it’s overwhelming.  You feel that there is so much to do and so little time. My resources are limited and I expect they will become more so over time.  Rather than succumbing to the paralysis of analysis, and constant study without action, I feel it’s better to begin chipping away at getting prepared.  I suggest you start today and get a toe hold on being prepared.  Starting small is better than not starting at all. There are many small things you can do that will get you going in the right direction, and will give you an advantage should you find yourself in an emergency situation.  You could build your first 72 hour kit bag. You could attend a free Community Emergency Response Team (CERT) Academy. Or, like this article suggests, you could spend one day of your life in a “Ham Cram” class for $5 -$15 dollars and walk away with a skill that you can use the rest of your life. Getting your first Amateur Radio License allows you to use some pretty powerful equipment with capabilities beyond what you can legally use as a non licensed citizen.    Ham radio is infrastructure independent, is used by those interested in emergency preparedness and has gotten a lot less expensive in the last few years.
 
The Back Story
Recent events got me interested in prepping for the next emergency situation.  The first event was the San Diego Blackout of 2011.  Unlike others I stayed at work for three hours after the power outage started.  Everyone else left work immediately and jumped on the freeway right into a park lot.  For some people that just lived a few miles way away from work it took hours to get home.  I spent those three hours at work on a project I had put off for far too long and left work when it got dark.  I had waited out the traffic, but I didn’t know what was going on until I heard the mayor give a speech on the FM radio in my car.  After the event I talked to a buddy of mine who had a handheld ham radio at work and he said he knew within about 2 minutes what had happened and the extent of the blackout. He used a handheld transceiver (HT) commonly called a handi-talkie. While the cell phones had gone offline, the ham repeaters were up and working fine on backup power.  After talking with him I was impressed with the amount of ‘intel’ he was able to gather over his ham radio in such a short amount of time.  I would have done just about anything at the time to know what was going on and talk with my wife.  If I had already owned a ham radio, I could have.

The second event was camping in Joshua Tree National Park with my kids.  They were climbing on 2 and 3 story rocks like mountain goats.  Our campground was 10 minutes away from cell phone coverage.  I kept thinking if anything horrible happened there would be no way to contact emergency services in a reasonable amount of time.  I just wouldn’t be able to live with myself if one of the kids got hurt and I wasn’t able to contact emergency assistance immediately and provide my GPS coordinates. It’s my responsibility as a parent to be prepared and protect my children, and for that trip I feel I came up short.
So with those two events fresh in my mind I signed up for a course to get my amateur radio Technician license.
 
Getting Your Amateur Radio License Is Easier Than You Think

Getting your amateur radio license is easier than you might think. One of the best things about ham radio is that the classes and tests are almost free.  In my case, the all day class was free and the fee for taking the test was $5.  In our area they have a 90% pass rate for people that take the class.  Many don’t even study before taking the course and do well. My wife failed the exam on her first attempt, but was able to retake the test a second time in the same sitting and passed.  I think she would agree there’s no reason not to spend one day and $5 to get your license.   If you do a little up front study there is no reason you shouldn’t be able to earn your first ham license for a modest investment of your time.
At the class I attended almost half of the participants were from one CERT program or another.  That ham class is how I found out about CERT.  Going to a ham class is a good way to network with others that are interested in emergency preparedness (regardless of their motivation). It’s also a great place to find out about local civilian and government organizations that will be active in your area during times of emergency.  If you are hooked into ham radio you’ll be in the know.  The information you learn using a ham radio during a crisis situation could be invaluable.
 
Get Field Tested and Emergency Appropriate Equipment

Local emergency groups are also good sources of information regarding what equipment is actually used and reliable in the field.  The most active CERT group in my county uses the Yaesu FT-60R.  After doing quite a bit of research including reading the Yaesu FT-60R spec sheet on the product I discovered why they like that radio so much. This is the radio I purchased for my wife and myself.  The radio has a very low current draw during transmit and receive, and it can transmit at a full 5 watts using AA batteries.  Many modern Handi-Talkies (HTs) have become very small and use proprietary batteries that can only be used in a few models and are very expensive.  You can get factory AA battery adapters for most ham handhelds, but since the battery adapters are the same size as the original battery and are limited to the number of AA cells that can fit inside the adapter. This forces manufacturers to use AA battery adapters with a limited number of AA batteries, so they have to reduce the transmit power to half a watt when running on AAs. Using the Yaesu AA battery adapter (part #: FBA-25) with the FT-60R adds quite a bit of flexibility in emergency situations as you can use six AA Alkaline batteries or the latest rechargeable battery technology and still transmit at a full 5 watts.  Regardless of which radio you choose, make sure that the AA battery adapter will allow the radio to transmit at maximum power and uses a large number of AA batteries.  Also, check the receive (RX) and transmit (TX) current draw on the spec sheet and compare it against other handheld radios you are considering.  Make sure you are using a radio that uses power efficiently since it’s in short supply during emergency situations.
 
Ham Radios Give You Options
Although the FT-60R is only dual band (2M/440MHz) for transmit, it has wideband reception from 108-520 MHz and 700-999.990 MHz.  This allows it to be used as a poor man’s scanner in emergency situations.  While a dedicated scanner is recommended, “one is none” as they say.  It’s good to have back up and some redundant functionality should your dedicated scanner get lost, run out of batteries or fail.

The FT-60R can monitor the FRS (Family Radio Service), GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) and MURS (Multi-Use Radio Service) radio frequencies.  MURS is adjacent to the 2M band while, FRS and GMRS are adjacent to the 440Mhz band.  Many ham handhelds transmit at 5 watts, while FRS is limited to 0.5 watts and MURS is limited to 2 watts.

You’ll notice that FRS/MURS radios have short little stubby antennas called ‘rubber duckies’. Legally FRS radios cannot have their antennas modified, so they don’t make it convenient to do so.  MURS radios can have external antennas, but they are limited to 2 watts of total power output (TPO). Unlike FRS and MURS radios, ham handheld transceivers have a wide array of options for antennas.   This allows you to attach antennas that are longer, get better reception, and have more gain which can allow you to reduce power output needed to transmit. You can also attach a ham handheld to a wide variety of external antennas like those small magnetic ones you can put on the roof of your car.  The fact that you can easily and legally modify your radios prior to an emergency situation is a quite an advantage.  If you can’t get the range you want it’s easy to add a new antenna. You can even add an antenna as a way to increase the gain and increase battery life. If you need even better battery life, you can use a AA adapter and the leverage the latest battery technology without having to buy a new radio.  This also allows you to standardize on a particular battery form factor.  When camping I do my best to stick with equipment that uses AA batteries whenever possible.  This allows me to move my usable power to the device where I need it the most if I’m low on power. 

You can even modify your FT-60R to allow it to transmit (TX) on 137-177MHz and 420-470MHz. Make sure you only transmit on frequencies for which you are licensed or are prepared to face the consequences if you need to use those frequencies during a life threatening emergency.

Over the last few years competition from inexpensive Chinese radios sold under the Wouxun (pronounced Oh-Sheng, like “ocean”) and Baofeng brands have caused name brand handhelds to come down in price.  It used to cost $200+ to get a decent handheld.  Current competition is pushing the prices down toward $120. The Yaesu FT-60R used to be a $200 radio.  You can now get them retail for $160.  On eBay you can get the FT-60R in ‘like-new’ used condition with no tax for around $120.  The point is that you can get a great radio and the bottom tier price levels.  Personally I’d rather have for $120 radios, than two radios that cost twice as much. “One is none” and backups are critical, especially in an emergency situation where buying a replacement at short notice is impossible or impractical.  Ham radio equipment holds its value reasonably well compared to other electronic devices, so if you change your mind in the future and need to sell some of your equipment to get something else or upgrade you  should be able to recoup a  good deal of your investment.  In a grid down situation I would expect ham radio equipment to be worth its weight in gold.

It’s important to note that brand name accessories are expensive compared to the price of the radio.  Each accessory for a band name radio costs an average of $30.  If you do buy your radio used or on eBay it’s possible to get the radio/accessory bundle for almost half the retail price.

Ham handheld radios are often purpose build for emergency communications, so they are durable, are often waterproof or water resistant and have factory accessories for 12v support.  Yaesu even sells and accessory (Part #: E-DC-6) for the FT-60R that has a DC plug for the radio on one and bare wires on the other for connecting the radio to a DC power source.
 
Repeaters
If you’re new to ham radios you may not be familiar with the concept of a repeater, and I keep throwing that word around so I’ll cover it briefly.  A repeater is a radio station that receives a transmission on one frequency and outputs it on another.  The purpose of a repeater is to boost the signal of the incoming transmission to increase the range and help radio signals get around terrain obstructions.  Repeaters often reside on the tallest mountain tops in your area that provide good ‘line of sight’ coverage to the surrounding areas on both sides of the mountain.  This way, a person on one side of the mountain can communicate with someone on the other side.  It also extends the range of the radios greatly.  Using a repeater you can communicate with people 20, 30, 50 sometimes even 100 miles away!  Also, repeaters can be linked to create ‘networks’ that cover an entire city, county or state.  A detailed discussion of repeaters is beyond the scope of this article, but it’s important to know that repeaters are one of the biggest advantages of going with a ham radio.  It’s amazing to be able to talk with people over such great distances with a little 5 watt handheld.  And when the cell phone system is down the ham repeaters are usually still working on backup generators or battery power.
 
Turn your 5 watt handheld into a 50 watt handheld
If you do get a ham handheld radio make sure it’s dual band and supports cross band repeat. Cross band repeat will allow you to use a mobile ham radio in your car or home to boost the signal of your handheld.  Basically with cross band repeat you use two frequencies on two different bands to bounce communications through another mobile ham radio.  This will allow you to stay mobile with the handheld but leverage the power output and larger antenna installed on the house or vehicle.  A typical mobile ham radio in a car is 50 watts and can have a full size antenna.  If you position your car at the top of a hill you can use it to communicate with radios where your handheld doesn’t have ‘line of sight’.   Used with a radio in your house “sky’s the limit”!
 
Final Words
While all the ‘hams’ I’ve met in local clubs so far have been kind and helpful, they really didn’t seem too concerned with battery life. For me [as a prepper on a budget] battery life and affordability were the toptwo issues.  Long term I want to have many back up radios, and $120 a pop they add up.  I’m really glad I took the time to get involved in ham radio because it introduced me to CERT and others involved in practical emergency preparedness.  I hope this article lands you in a ham class sometime in the near future and gets you involved with your local CERT group.  Knowing what is going on around you will allow you to prepare quickly and make good decisions as information during a crisis as it unfolds.  The next step is to get my General license so I can access the High Frequency (HF) bands and take my ‘intel’ gathering to the national and/or global level.
 
Summary

1. Getting into ham radio can be inexpensive and easy.
a. Ham classes are often free, and run by volunteers.
b. Ham exams cost $5 or $15, and can be taken the same day as a class.
c. Great ‘like-new’ brand name radios can be had for as little as $120.
2. Getting involved in ham radio will provide a network of people interested in emergency preparedness (i.e. CERT).
3. Ham radios are much more powerful and configurable than retail FRS or MURS radios.
4. Ham radios can be dual band (2m/440Mhz), while MURS is just above the 2 meter band and FRS/GMRS is in the 440Mhz band.
5. Dual band ham radios can monitor FRS/GMRS and MURS bands.
6. Ham radios are 5 watts while FRS and MURS radios are half a watt to 2 watts.
7. Ham handhelds have great power options and some can provide full capability with AA batteries.
8. Battery life can be increased by getting a better antenna.
9. Repeaters can extend the range of ham handhelds to the county or even state level.
10. Cross band functionality using a mobile ham radio in your vehicle or house as a repeater can increase your operational capability.
 
Useful Links



Two Letters Re: Cap and Ball Revolver Options

Hello James,
Thanks for a great site.

Here in New York City you can own an antique or reproduction black powder revolver, but if you have caps, bullets and/or powder then you are considered to possessing an unregistered pistol. (A felony.)

As you always say: “check your state and local laws .”

Thanks, – Richie from New York City

 

Dear Mr. Rawles,
I read with interest the letter about Cap and Ball Revolvers as a workaround for restrictive gun laws.   I have long advocated this to some of my friends and acquaintances,  who, for one reason or another, are not allowed to own a modern handgun.   I would, however, like to add the following:

The Colt model Cap and Balls, like the 1851 Navy, 1860 Army, and 1861 Navy, and their copies, were fine weapons in their times, but are now obsolete, and in my opinion, as survival weapons, and almost useless.   They are of a design known as an ‘Open Top’ , and are structurally weaker than more modern weapons like the 1873 Peacemaker, and other more modern revolvers that have a ‘top strap ‘ on the frame, so that the cylinder is totally enclosed and supported by the revolver frame.  After a relatively few rounds they can begin to ‘shoot apart’, and become mechanically loose and their timing fails.   This is not what you want or need in a survival weapon.

That being said, is there a better alternative?  Yes. there are two.   The first is the Italian made copies of the Remington Army Model 1858, in 44 caliber, with a steel frame, and second, the Ruger ‘Old Army’ in .451 caliber, in either blue steel or stainless steel.  I am going to confine my comments to the Ruger, but they apply equally to the 1858s.   It must be noted that, at present, Old Army’s are not in production by Ruger, but they are available at Gun Shows, Gun Shops, and online at GunBroker and AuctionArms web sites.  At the present time, prices for the Ruger’s  range from $ 350 to $ 600, depending on the model, and the condition.    If you want them, get them while you can.   The prices will only rise.    They have the advantage that they can be shipped interstate with no restrictions,  with no FFL requirements.    For those who do not like records, that is a plus.

The Ruger Old Army is basically a update of the 1958 Remington made with Ruger’s coil spring design and investment casting technology.   They have integral loading levers, and are made very strong.   Both the Blue and the Stainless models will last a lifetime, though my bias is to the stainless models, for resistance to the corrosion of black powder, and the ability to ‘bury’ them in an emergency,  and come back later to retrieve them.   The Old Army is a six shot, and can be carried with all six, with the hammer resting on one of the six notches located on the back of the cylinder between the percussion nipples.  
           
Ruger made the Old Armies in two formats, the Blackhawk style, with a flat top strap and adjustable target sights, and the Vaquero style, which has a rounded top strap and fixed sights like an Colt Peacemaker.   They also come in Long Barrel ( 7 1/2″ ) or Short Barrel ( 5 1./2″ ).   A competent gunsmith could even shorten then barrel, remove the loading lever,  and make a hide-out or belly gun out of a  Vaquero style Old Army that would make it a good, if somewhat large, backup gun.

They can be fired with both round ball or conicals, ( my preference ) and the ignition is reliable if they do not get too wet.   Loading is as for the Colts, and please see Mr. J.M.’s letter as it is very accurate.  

And there is one final advantage to the Old Armies and the 1858s, especially the Stainless ones.   R&D Conversion Cylinders are available for about $ 250 each in both Blue and Stainless for both the Ruger Old Army and the  Remington 1858s, and will allow you to shoot 45 Long Colt cartridges, providing you follow the procedures and loading instructions.  Remember, these are not modern weapons, and cannot take “hot” loads.    That said, a person who is lawfully barred from owning a cartridge revolver might purchase one of these older style revolvers, and keep one or two cylinders in reserve for emergencies.  (Again, consult your state and local laws.) While these are not the equal of a modern 1911 or a Glock, with extra black powder or conversion cylinders, they would be much better than nothing in a survival situation.   And, if only black powder and percussion caps are available,  they may be much more useful than a higher tech gun for which no ammunition is available.
Respectfully, – P.R.W.



Letter Re: Your Earthquake Audit

Mr. Rawles:
The recent article about conducting a home earthquake audit reminds me of a preparedness step that I took: A little over a year ago I saw an automatic gas shutoff valve displayed at a professional plumbing store. After looking in the cutaway demonstration  valve , I inquired about the cost of the valve, which was around $100. I have kept a wrench next to the gas meter for years, but last year I had to commute 60  miles  away for school. Now with a new prepper mentality  , I wondered what would happen if a big quake did happen while I was gone. If it took me a week to get home,  only to find a home burned to the ground because of a broken gas pipe, I would be mad, and feel stupid for not protecting everything for  a paltry $100 valve.

I installed the valve and forgot about it, but  then it had an unexpected test just one week later. I was also having a very large tree removed (one that could crush half of the house). My mother and I were eating lunch when we heard and felt a large thud, as the tree trimmers felled the last portion of the tree trunk, which was about 12 feet tall. Not until the next day, when the hot water became very cool, did I realize the valve had in fact worked and automatically shut off the gas to the house. I would rather spend $100  now, than to lose everything and be covered by the world’s best insurance policy. For those people that don’t think they are in earthquake territory, I only need to remind you of the magnitude 5.8 quake  that hit Virginia last year, and the fact that 75% of quake related fires are caused by  unsecured and top heavy gas water heaters falling over and breaking the gas pipe.

Thanks again for getting the word out,  – Solar Guy



Economics and Investing:

Long-time SurvivalBlog reader and contributor R.B.S. sent this: Risky Places To Swipe Your Debit Card

Pierre M. sent this from ABC News: Green Firms Get Fed Cash, Give Execs Bonuses, Fail

Over at ETF Daily News: The Rising Price of Commodities: The Most Investable Trend Over The Next 20 Years

Items from The Economatrix:

Gold Price Will Plunge Below $1,000 Bears Claim

Gasoline Pump Price In US Climbs For 24 Straight Days

Oil Up On Iran Fears; Growth Worry Limits Gain

Gold Recovers From Lows As Dollar Retreats



Odds ‘n Sods:

Joseph R. sent this: CONEX Temporary Housing in Japan. (This was the next step, after paper partitions.)

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And speaking of Japan: One year after Fukushima – Defining and classifying a disaster. (Now a five part series.)

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David T. sent this NPR news story: The Ultimate In Heirloom Wheat Arrives At Seed Vault

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Human nature dictates that a lot of preparedness only comes belatedly: Sale of storm shelters on rise after string of deadly tornadoes. (Thanks to Tim J. for the link.)

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Seed for Security has announced a bonus promotion for gardeners. They are adding a free Spring Collection with every order over $45. This consists of five generous seed packets for early Spring planting: Lincoln Peas (approx. 300 seeds), Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage (approx. 400 seeds), Bloomsdale Spinach (approx. 800 seeds), Detroit Dark Red Beets (approx. 400 seeds), and Bouquet Dill (approx. 200 seeds). This is a limited time offer.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"An unconstitutional act is not law; it confers no rights; it imposes no duties; it affords no protection; it creates no office; it is in legal contemplation, as inoperative as though it had never been passed." – Norton v. Shelby County, US Supreme Court Decision 118 US 425, 442 (in 1886)