Where Do I Start? Don’t Bite Off More Than You Can Chew, by Kentucky Girl in Ohio

One of the most daunting challenges in preparing for TEOTWAWKI is the absence of our crystal balls. What will TEOTWAWKI really entail? Let’s be honest, would a catastrophic disaster be necessary to majorly upset the balance of life as we know it, or could even the simplest of events turn our cushy, pampered, disposable income lives into a tailspin?  I think the answer is obvious. Despite any financial challenges we may be facing, it’s safe to assume that we all live relatively pampered lifestyles. Because we have become so far removed from our forebearers’ day to day struggle for existence, I have found that the “best case scenario” is an excellent starting point for beginning a preparedness plan. Arriving at this point is a challenge in itself, as the enormous volume of survival information available to us may also be the largest detriment. Because the authors are so versed in the world of survival preparation, many survival blogs and web sites contain subjects and language that the layman would find difficult to comprehend.  How do you sift through all that information and turn it into a real cohesive plan that you could actually use or even remember when the situation arises? Tiny steps, my friends…one bite at a time.

After a pathetically ill prepared three days of power loss a few summers ago, it became clear to my husband and me that we needed to get serious about the responsibilities of preparedness. Despite the fact that I have been an outdoorswoman all of my life, I found myself embarrassingly lacking in this domestic enterprise. It was eye opening for me to realize that I had spent countless trips, over seven days, backcountry camping in the wilderness, yet I had no real plan on how to survive in my own home. The biggest hurdle we faced in the beginning stages was which disaster to prepare for! Considering the overwhelming number of potential TEOTWAWKI scenario’s that we face , how could anyone really be 100% prepared without spending every last dime they owned, expelled every last ounce of energy they had and spend every last waking moment preparing for the perfect storm of impending disaster? Will it be nuclear attack? A weather disaster? an EMP? an epidemic? a financial meltdown? As in anything in life, we must ask ourselves……what can I control? What can I, despite all my good intentions, have absolutely no effect over? What skills or items do I already possess that will benefit my family? What real life actions can I take to make survival easier or even possible?

To begin answering these questions, apply them to a best case scenario. These types of situations require the basics. Think of it as your beginner’s kit and build it from there. What do you need to “survive” a week without power? If you answered “a credit card to book a room at the Hilton” then you will probably need some help with your list. Remember, this is a process and a prepper is not born overnight. Don’t let it overwhelm you and don’t be ashamed to admit that you are starting with a blank slate. Assess your location and what possible situations might affect you such as hurricanes, tornados, flooding, earthquakes or urban blackouts. Similarly determine what resources surround you. Could you build a fire ring for cooking in your yard? Do you have access to a water source; do you have adequate space for emergency supply storage? Walk through your house; think about your daily routines. Do you have any source of light, communication or food preparation besides electric? Do you have extra batteries, potable water supplies, enough existing non-perishable food to last more than a week? How would, or even could you heat your home if you lost power in the winter? If you have small children, consider what you may need to keep them, not only healthy and safe, but occupied in an unplugged world. It seems so elementary to most, but the reality is that many of us do not possess even the most basic of survival skills. There is no reason to feel ashamed, we are all the products of our environments, you simply must examine your environment to begin your transformation into a responsible, informed and prepared citizen. Once you begin the process, depending on the level of preparedness you wish to achieve, the overwhelming scope of the task will subside a little bit at a time.

Once you have your basics down add an additional layer to your scenario. What if there is an extended power outage and your home is damaged? What if you must evacuate your home abruptly? Plan how you will communicate with your family, how you will evacuate in different situations and where you will meet up in the case that you are separated. Include a course of action for your pets in you plan as well as extended family members that might need your help. Will your elderly parents or neighbors need your assistance? Encourage your family and community to prepare as well. Approach them with the same “best case scenario” when broaching the subject. People tend to think you’re crazy if you come at them with “end of the world” talk but they are usually receptive to some basic survival discussion. Usually, those who are interested will evolve in their desire to take their preparation to the next level as well. Those who aren’t receptive, however, might think your crazy at first but will likely thank you later in the event that you are able to share your resources with them in an emergency. There is always safety and strength in numbers. 

Allow yourself to acclimate from one scenario to the next. Once you have achieved what you feel is an adequate level of preparedness for one situation, move to the next. Familiarize yourself with current events, not just in your community, but worldwide. Ask yourself how the current political or financial climate might affect you and your family. For instance, it’s likely that inflation will skyrocket in the coming years, and the value of our dollar will decline. Are your cash reserves better used now for stock piling necessities? Consider investing in items that you know you will need over the next few years now, rather than wait until they cost double or even triple their current retail price. If you have growing children, you understand how often you must replace shoes, jeans and winter coats. Inventory what will need to be replaced or repaired in your home. Also, do some research on investing in gold or silver coins with a percentage of your disposable income. Gold and silver may be the only currency of any value in an utter financial meltdown. Be sure to do your homework and consult with a trusted financial professional before making any investments.

Examining your food sources is a very important step in your preparation. Do you have any means of sustenance other than the local Piggly Wiggly? A well thought out garden can flourish in just about any environment. Obviously, rural and suburban gardening can yield a bumper crop of vegetables every year but urban gardening can be a challenge. Check with your local extension office for help getting started if you are a novice. Many urban areas have community gardens to which you can contribute and benefit. Window and roof gardening is also an option in urban areas. Canning and preserving what your garden yields is imperative to optimize your sustainable food source. It does require a small investment in equipment and jars, but will more than pay for itself in a few short seasons. Start small with your first crop so as not to overwhelm yourself and increase your garden in pace with your developing expertise and knowledge.

As you become more comfortable with your new mindset, inventory your skills and those of your family members. In a world where know how and resources become currency, how will you obtain the things you need to survive beyond for what you have prepared? Sewing, automotive repair, plumbing, carpentry, welding, fishing, hunting, foraging, even cooking skills will be invaluable in a post TEOTWAWKI world. Barter may become the favored way to exchange goods and services. A stocked pantry full of canned vegetables from your garden, a flock of egg laying hens or even a stash of vegetable seeds could render you the “wealthiest” member of your neighborhood. Likely, a sense of community will return to our towns and neighbors will share their resources with others. However, there will always be those who want to take what you have. Despite how you may feel about weapons, they will likely be a necessity. If you have no knowledge of firearms and make the decision to purchase one for your protection, it is imperative that you seek the help of someone with extensive familiarity with guns. Contact the NRA or a local sporting club for names of certified instructors in your area. 

Assign tasks to your family members to expand your preparedness repertoire. One family member may find greater interest in certain topics than others. A passionate interest in a task or skill will yield much more information and versed knowledge than a forced, disinterested lesson. You may be surprised in which new hobbies your family members may embark or to what extent they might develop a skill or education.  Lastly, be sure to document in great detail, observations, skills and insights as you and your family members master them. The reality of the world as we know it today is that there just isn’t enough time to pass on every bit of our knowledge to all of our family members. Also, who in the world has time to practice making soaps or candles or butchering a chicken? While very important proficiencies in certain situations, they are not practical in our busy, day to day “real world” lives. My youngest stepson once asked me why I was typing out basic cooking and food preparation instructions for our survival notebook. I asked him what would happen if I were to die in an epidemic and wasn’t around to cook? I explained that he might have food on the shelves and pots and pans to cook with and could even bring plenty of venison home but if he didn’t have even basic cooking knowledge, he might be eating a lot of really bad meals before he mastered something palatable. We are currently working on documenting every survival detail we can think of. In addition to “how tos” for daily tasks, I’ve mapped all local public river access points, any private waters that we have permission to use as well as the closest wilderness areas where hunting is legal. From the farthest fetched to the most basic task, you should have written accounting or explanation of its purpose and execution. You might not think you will need to make your own rope or fertilize an egg now, but you will most certainly thank yourself should the day ever arrive that you need those instructions. If you have multiple books, manuals or videos, that you regularly reference, try to consolidate the most important information into your notebook or binder. When the time comes to use these skills, you won’t want to be sifting through dozens of books, looking for a chapter you read long ago. Sharing your knowledge as well as retaining a summarized accounting of it is imperative.

So, if you don’t bite off more than you can chew in the first stages of your journey, you will certainly find your efforts a little less monumental. Once you have some basic cognition and understanding of what you are trying to achieve, the opportunities for learning are endless. You will find hundreds of manuals, books, magazines, videos and private instruction for nearly any survival skill that you desire to learn. Fold these into your education as you go so that you can actually wrap your mind around the content. You can achieve any level of survival preparation that you wish, you just have to take one bite at a time!



Letter Re: .22 Magnum in Times of General Ammunition Shortages

Dear JWR:
I currently live in the People’s Republic of Illinois and have seen the mad dash for ammo and firearms make it very difficult to acquire even the standard .22 Long Rifle rimfire ammo that until a few months ago could be purchased by the case at nearly any Wal-Mart, gun shop, or sporting goods store. Recently when browsing the aisles of both Bass Pro Shop and Wal-Mart I noticed something rather peculiar: that .22 Magnum ammunition was aplenty. This struck me as really odd that .22 Magnum was even being sold in bulk packs (CCI brand) at Bass Pro with no purchase limits. It appeared as though one could easily (even now) buy 5,000 rounds of .22 Magnum without so much as a single person to compete with for it. My thoughts are now leaning towards acquiring a Kel-Tec PMR-30 [30-round .22 Magnum pistol] as well as a decent bolt-action (also in .22 Magnum) so as to provide myself the flexibility to buy this ammo even in times when other calibers may be hard to come by.

Your thoughts and opinion would be appreciated. Thanks, – K.

JWR Replies: That might be a good mitigation plan for our current circumstances. But keep in mind that even after the current shortages end that the cost per round for .22 Magnum will always be substantially higher–which makes target shooting more expensive. Hearing protection is also crucial with this cartridge. Our friends at Chuckhawks provide some background info and here are some ballistics comparisons. Yes, the .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR) has substantially more energy than .22 LR, but it is quite expensive.

You should also consider that WTSHTF, the current supply situation may be reversed to the longer term norm, for barter. (Since .22 LR is ubiquitous, while .22 Magnum will always be the much more expensive oddball.) So stock up heavily if you opt for .22 Magnum rimfires.



Economics and Investing:

The Real Story Behind JPMorgan Chase & Co.’s (JPM) Infamous Whale-Sized Trade In Credit Derivatives

Kevin S. suggested this “must watch”interview of Jeff Berwick: Get Far Away From USA…Its Collapse Will Be Messy. In this interview, Berwick aptly says: “We are in the last days of this financial system in the United States. This is Zimbabwe.” Berwick is starting a “Galt’s Gulch” ex-pat community in Cafayate, Argentina. JWR’s Comment: I believe that Chile would have been a better choice than Argentina, which has a socialist government and a currency with frequent bouts of inflation.

Mac Slavo of the excellent SHTFPlan blog reports: Unprecedented Demand: Americans Purchase a Gun Every 1.5 Seconds

Items from The Economatrix:

“Brace For A Stock Market Accident” GLG CIO Warns

16 Reasons Why David Rosenberg’s Not Buying Employment Report

Why Unemployment Stretches Are Getting Shorter



Odds ‘n Sods:

A special alert for Californians: List of Proposed California Gun Control Measures — 500 Round Max, No Grandfathering, No Detachable Mags, Mandatory License. Here is some related coverage, that discusses the full implications: California Democrats Introduce Bill To Confiscate Every “Assault” Weapon In The State From Their Law-Abiding Owners… (Thanks to B.B. for the latter link.)

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Some troubling news: Obama Gives Foreign Cops New Police Powers in U.S.

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Dr. B. mentioned this: Psychiatric Drugs More Often Prescribed in the South: Study looked at stimulant, antipsychotic and antidepressant use across U.S.

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Asteroid to Traverse Earth’s Satellite Zone, NASA Says

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Reader Carla P. sent: Arkansas House passes bill to allow guns in churches. Let’s see if Lame Duck Governor Beebe has the guts to sign it.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The eternal God [is thy] refuge, and underneath [are] the everlasting arms: and he shall thrust out the enemy from before thee; and shall say, Destroy [them].

Israel then shall dwell in safety alone: the fountain of Jacob [shall be] upon a land of corn and wine; also his heavens shall drop down dew.

Happy [art] thou, O Israel: who [is] like unto thee, O people saved by the LORD, the shield of thy help, and who [is] the sword of thy excellency! and thine enemies shall be found liars unto thee; and thou shalt tread upon their high places.” Deuteronomy 33:27-29 (KJV)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 45 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 45 ends on March 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Industrial Sewing Machines for Prepared Families, by Lockstitch

I began as an apprentice in the Upholstery trade when I was 15 years old. I worked the trade all through high school and it helped to put me through college. Eventually I opened my own shop and worked the trade until 2004. In 2004 I partnered with a good friend and we began designing and manufacturing tactical gear for him and the guys he worked with overseas. This business has continued until today. All in all, I have been using industrial sewing machines of various types for over 20 years now. In that time, I have learned much about what machines to look for, and what machines to avoid. Much of this experience has come at significant financial cost, so I hope to help your readers avoid the mistakes I have made over the years.
I have read various articles posted in the past that have extolled the virtues of learning to sew and having a good sewing machine on hand in a TEOTWAWKI situation. The reasons are many, including being able to repair your clothing and gear when those services are not available. Also, the ability to make and repair gear will be a valuable and marketable skill in a post event situation. I have not, however, been able to locate an article specific to machine choice, especially regarding industrial machines. I know you’re a proponent of the old treadle-pedal style machines, but for reasons to follow, I would caution your readers about these types of sewing machines.  I would submit that everyone should have a good INDUSTRIAL grade sewing machine as part of their preparations. Like most good tools, once you’ve had one, it’s hard to see how you ever got by without it.

Over the years I’ve owned, used, sold, purchased, borrowed, repaired, and modified approximately 20 machines of various makes and models. I’ve used button-hole machines, computerized bar-tackers, double-needle machines, sergers, chain-stitchers, straight stitchers–the list is long. Of all the machines I’ve owned, one is by far the most useful. I’ve used it more than all others combined. This machine is what I suggest your readers find, purchase, and learn to use. I’m talking about a compound feed, walking foot industrial sewing machine. For those unfamiliar with sewing machines, let me clarify as best I can and give you some suggestions on where and how to purchase one.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:

  1. INDUSTRIAL

I should probably apologize in advance to all the good women out there who have sewn for years on small home machines. My wife, mother, aunts, etc. all have them so I mean no disrespect, but here goes… Avoid the temptation to buy an off-the-shelf home sewing machine from the local craft-mart or that computerized wonder with a million preprogrammed stitches and fancy zipper-feet they’re selling on the TV shopping network. These machines are great for the hobby quilter, craft enthusiast, and for boat anchors in a grid-down situation. Also avoid the old fashioned treadle-pedal machines of the pioneer days. They’re okay if you only intend to sew VERY thin fabric, but they’re nearly useless for sewing heavier materials, and finding replacement parts can be dicey. They take a considerable amount of technique to use effectively. I own a great old (pre WWII) industrial long-arm Adler with a treadle. It’s superbly made and amazingly durable… and unfortunately, it’s nearly useless for 99% of the sewing I do.

One of the main reasons to go with an industrial machine is the clutch motor. A good industrial machine will be set in a 4 foot by 2 foot free standing table with a large electric motor mounted underneath that transfers power to the sewing machine head via a v-belt (like the fan belt in older cars). It does this through a clutch, usually made of very dense cork. Once turned on, the motor is always spinning at full speed and by depressing the sewing machine’s pedal, you bring the two cork plates together engaging the clutch. This transfers the power through the v-belt to the head and you’re in business. The clutches last for YEARS. (I have never had to replace a clutch on any of my machines and I sew on them almost daily.) If you’re worried, you can perform a quick test. Sit at the machine with it turned off and try to cycle it by hand. It should difficult. If it isn’t, the clutch may be worn. Don’t give up on the machine just because of this, however, because the motors and clutches are not terribly expensive to replace. If you’ve got a great sewing machine, but a bad motor or clutch, buy it! You can find new motors all day for around $100. (Make sure you buy a single phase motor though, there are tons of 3-phase sewing machine motors out there and few people have 3-phase power.) My point in all this is that if you are in a long-term grid down situation, it will be relatively easy to replace the constantly spinning motor with another form of spinning motion. I have found that with some simple modifications, I can rig up a stationary bicycle to spin the electric motor. It takes little effort for someone in your group to pedal the bike while you sew. It’s best to not remove the motor because once you get it spinning, its internal weight acts like a flywheel and helps maintain the torque necessary to keep sewing trough thick materials. If you have one of those old-school exercise bikes with the very heavy front wheel, this may not be necessary, but also consider the advantages of leaving the motor intact if power ever does become available again. Get the necessary parts/modifications tested and working BEFORE the balloon goes up and then squirrel them away. It will probably be very difficult to source the v-belts and associated pulleys/etc. you need after an event. This takes some genuine backwoods ingenuity, but I found all the parts I needed easily, online from McMaster Carr. If you have some junk 10-speed bicycles lying around, and some imagination, you could probably source everything you need from them. My point is, if you can spin that clutch disc, you can sew. If all else fails, you can cycle the stitches by hand with the machine’s hand wheel and it will still be much faster and stronger than sewing anything by hand. The whiz-bang computerized machines you buy at the craft store are servo operated these days and will be completely useless without electricity. Some of them can’t even be cycled by hand without electricity. They also lack the hardy construction necessary to sew heavy materials such as canvas, webbing, and thick leather without blowing the timing and breaking components. Few things will make you say bad words like repeatedly blowing the timing of your sewing machine or breaking needles, when you’re trying to finish an important project. Think of those little craft machines like those cute little painted hammers they sell in craft stores. They may be great for putting a tack in the wall to hang a picture, but can you imagine trying to frame a house with one?

A couple last things to consider…the good, older, industrial machines are completely mechanical except for the drive motor, so they are impervious to EMP attacks. They will last several lifetimes if properly lubricated and can be configured with various attachments to do a surprisingly wide range of specialized sewing tasks. If you look hard enough, you will find them for incredibly cheap. (More on this later.)

  1. WALKING FOOT

A “walking foot” sewing machine simply means that when the material you are sewing is being pulled to the rear of the machine by the feet, the needle is IN the fabric. This prevents bunching and gathering of the fabric and also greatly aids in keeping the top and bottom pieces of fabric indexed correctly. Having been forced to sew on a non-walking foot machine while employed in college, I will never own a strait stitch machine that doesn’t have a walking foot. If you’re unsure if the machine has a walking foot, simply cycle the machine slowly by hand, and you will see if the needle is down in the feed plate when it moves to the rear. If the needle is up out of the fabric and only the presser foot pulls the fabric to the rear, don’t buy the machine.

  1. COMPOUND FEED

This is sometimes used interchangeably with walking foot, but it actually denotes how many feet the machine has. Look for a machine that has two presser feet, not just one. There will be a rear foot and a front foot. This greatly improves the way the machine feeds thick materials as well as how it handles difficult sewing applications. It’ll be a Godsend if you use a binding attachment or sew heavy zippers into tents, etc.

  1. TOP LOADING BOBBIN HOUSING

This is less critical, but a nice feature to have. It just means that you can access the bobbin (the small spool of thread that feeds the bottom stitch), from the top of the machine, rather than from the side, or underneath. It makes bobbin changes easier and it makes clearing the dreaded “bird nests” much easier when they occur.

  1. REVERSE

This may sound silly, but there are a bunch of industrial machines out there that do not have reverse. This is a deal breaker for me. It’s like buying a jeep with two-wheel drive. Yes, it’s a jeep, but you’ve just lost so much utility and versatility by not holding out for four wheel drive. You need reverse to back stitch at the beginning and end of seams so they don’t unravel. You can’t effectively bar-tack without reverse either, and if you’re making any sort of tactical gear, you’ll be doing a lot of bar-tacking.

  1. TIMING CLUTCH

File this under really nice to have, but not a deal breaker. The timing clutch is a bearing-actuated clutch that theoretically breaks loose before you can blow the machine’s timing if you ever jam the machine while sewing. You then simply cycle the machine slowly forward until the bearings reset and you’re good to go. I’ve only seen these on the old Adler 067 models (of which I have two), but they may be on other good quality machines as well. They are WONDERFUL if you can find a machine that has them. I can’t explain how to look for this feature without photos and a long confusing explanation, so just ask about it when buying a machine.  Don’t be surprised if you get a blank stare from the person selling the machine, but ask anyway.

  1. THREAD STAND & BOBBIN WINDER

When looking for a machine, make sure it has a good thread stand that holds at least two 1lb. spools of thread. Most will hold three, but two is a must. One feeds the machine while the other one winds the bobbin.  Also, it should have a bobbin winder. Many are attached to the table under the hand wheel, but some are built right into the machine head. These are neat little contraptions that wind your bobbin for you while you sew. They run off the drive belt and disengage automatically when the bobbin is full. Unless you plan on storing away an endless supply of pre-wound bobbins, you’ll need the bobbin winder. I use pre-wound bobbins in production for a number of reasons, but I also have an ample supply of metal, reusable bobbins that I can wind myself when needed. Pre-wounds may not always be available so it’s better to go with a long term solution.

  1. ODDS AND SODS

Once you’ve procured your machine, find out what length of v-belt it uses and write it on the machine somewhere. Now go out and get one or two extra belts. You can buy sewing machine-specific belts for a ridiculous amount of money, or do like I do. I buy automotive v-belts for a fraction of the cost at my local parts store. They last a lot longer too. In fact, I’ve had to replace two sewing machine belts in my lifetime. Once replaced with automotive belts, I’ve never had to replace them again.
If you can locate them, buy a couple extra sets of feet for the machine. Get a set of zipper feet in right and left hand configurations if you can. I also have two sets of welting feet for my machines, but that’s a throw back to my upholstery days. If you intend to use a binding tape attachment for your machine, you’ll need a set of special feet for that too. They can be sourced online on the various auction sites, or from industrial sewing machine suppliers. While you’re at it, get a bunch of extra needles for the machine in various sizes. I keep a large supply of 140, 150, and 160 sized needles on hand. These machines are very strong and will shatter a needle quite easily if you happen to tweak the fabric enough to deflect the needle into the feed dogs. They also become dull over time if you sew a lot of dirty canvas, etc.

If you can get the operations manual with the machine, grab it! Most of them are available online, but not always. Many are out of print and cost a mint to get reproductions. The internet has alleviated some of this, but not in all cases. You NEED the operational manual to make sure you can readjust the machine should you blow the timing. It is not an easy task if you’re inexperienced at it. If you can’t manage to retime the machine, it will be completely useless.

Industrial sewing machines are VERY heavy. I put all mine on casters so they can be easily moved around my shop. I highly recommend you do this if the machine you buy doesn’t have them. These machines are big and take a lot of space in a small garage. It’s very nice to be able to just push them out of the way when not being used.

  1. BRANDS

I stated before that I’ve used a number of different machines over the last 20 years. Some were and are great, some were real dogs. I give the following as my personal opinion. It’s based off 20 years of work in the trade, but it is certainly not the last word on the subject so please don’t take it as gospel.

If TEOTWAWKI happened tomorrow and I could save only one machine from my factory, and that machine had to last me the rest of my life, I would grab my old Adler 067. It was the first machine I ever bought and I’ve sewn well over a million stitches on it. It was a used machine when I bought it, so who knows how many stitches it’s sewn over the years, but it will outlive my grandchildren if they keep it oiled. I wish I knew how many pounds of thread I’ve put through it over the years. In my opinion it’s the finest straight stitch machine ever made. It has all of the things I’ve listed above and the old 067’s can be found at outrageous discounts if you look around. The Adler 167s are outstanding machines as well. My second choice would be one of the older Pfaff industrials like the 145. They are equal in quality and toughness to the Adler, but lack the timing clutch. I also own a couple JUKI machines and they are great. I have a double needle and a computerized bar-tacker made by JUKI and I have no complaints. They are a great value and if you’re going to buy new, that’s the way I would go. I highly recommend you buy used, old, and German, but if you do buy new, I’d go with JUKI. I’ve used a few CONSEW machines over the years and they’ve been hit or miss. I’ve used a couple that were good, and I’ve used a couple that were just dogs. Same goes for CHANDLER (except the ones that were actually made by Adler). I’ve never used SINGER machines, but if you read the forums they were really hit or miss too. The consensus seems to be buy the older machines. The rest I’ve used were very specialized machines and really don’t apply here.

  1. WHERE TO BUY

I’ve purchased machines from dealers, out of the back of a van, from internet auction sites, yard sales, estate sales, and from defunct businesses. The internet auction sites are great, but shipping is often as much or more than the machine itself. If you do go auction site, consider just buying the head unit and then sourcing a stand (table) and motor locally. Search the local classifieds for anything that says “industrial” or “commercial” sewing machine. You can find great deals that are close enough to go pick up. Also, research the sewing machine dealers in your area. Most dealers buy and sell used machines. You’ll usually pay more, but they may give you a guarantee on a “refurbished” machine. They are usually good sources for parts too. Keep a sharp eye out for yard sales and estate sales. There were a lot of us upholsterers back in the day but we’re an endangered species. The throw-away economy we live in has made upholstery a very difficult business to be in. Many of the old craftsmen have hung up their scissors and are selling off their machines. Many of the auto-restoration crowd bought a machine thinking they would do the interior on that old muscle car and then find out it’s not as easy as it looks. They get sick of it taking up space in the garage and the machines end up at swap meets and yard sales. Be patient and be creative in your search and you’ll find some real gems for a few hundred bucks. I once bought five machines from a defunct business for $25 each.

IN CONCLUSION:
I really hope you will consider adding an industrial sewing machine to your list of tools.  I believe it will serve you so much better than relying on a small home machine to keep your clothing, tents, backpacks, and other gear in good repair for the long haul. If you will take the time to really learn how to use it, it can provide a supplemental income for you now and possibly a life-saving means of barter/income after the SHTF. May God bless all of us with wisdom and persistence as we prepare, and may we be successful in all our efforts.



Letter Re: The Proposed Citadel Community in Idaho

James,
I read a post from one of the administrative members of the Citadel the other day.  He posted a request for “ways ahead” from group members (individuals who have paid the $208 application).  Specifically, he asked for suggestions on how to proceed given that they told the world they were looking for 3,000 acres on which to build their community.  Now, they are leaning towards a scaled down version to start; 200 acres.  While I don’t find that too cosmic a question to ask, I do think incompetence is showing.  On top of that, the forum they’ve created for paid applicants seems to push people in the direction only they want to go.  Example, they have a subforum named “Name Our City”.  In this, the administrator asks the masses what they’d like the area the Citadel lies on to be called if it is ever incorporated.  Members throw out their suggestions.  Then the administrator posts that they’re pretty much focused on calling it “the Citadel” (so why even have the subforum in the first place?).  This is just one example (and a trivial one) on how uncoordinated this project is.  They should’ve had all the details laid out prior to recruiting.  Right now, I get the heavy impression this is being run be a handful of dreamers that are stumbling through the process.  I don’t have high hopes that this is going to work
 
I gave them my $208 with serious reservations.  Why?  On the off chance that this is exactly what they say it is and everything works out.  Not really a hit on my finances, I had a slush fund and I’m way ahead of schedule with my preps.  I looked at it as a low risk, high pay off investment.  I didn’t have to give them any info, just the money (right now).  In the future, they will be conducting interviews–so they say.  I can back out at any time. (We’ll see if I get my money back). 
 
So, I wrote this to you because I trust you and you have the ear of many.  Please advise the masses as you see fit.  I’d request that if you post anything that I’ve wrote, you keep it anonymous please!  Keep your powder dry. – Mr. E.

JWR Replies: As I’ve mentioned before, I share some strong reservations about the Citadel community plan and the group’s leadership. (Namely, Mr. Kerodin.) Our friend Patrice Lewis, who lives in the same county, recently wrote a cogent summary, in her excellent Rural Revolution blog. Some of the comments that follow are thought provoking.

A fundamental flaw is that they plan to lease shares in a walled community, rather than sell clear title to individual lots. Without private land holdings by the individual members, this wouldn’t be much more than a hippie commune–albeit a heavily-armed hippie commune.

I know the region quite well. In fact, it is not far from where my first novel (Patriots) was set. The subdivision, zoning and permit requirements in Benewah County are favorable to development. (Much better than in adjoining Latah County, where there is a 40 acre minimum parcel size, for subdivision.) There are now permits required and a building code is enforced, but agricultural buildings are exempt.

Outside of the sprawling National Forest, the only large tracts of land around there (usually no more than 640 acre sections–see the checkerboard pattern of sections in the Forest Service maps) are mostly held by the big timber companies such as Potlatch.  The largest tracts and the most affordable (per acre) are mostly in high elevation country which have serious access problems in the winter and are pitiful, agriculturally.  (Again, because of the elevation, which means a short growing season.)

Generally, the big tracts of land don’t go on the market until after they’ve been logged.  Bit I must mention that these days, the loggers no longer do many clear cuts, and they have special cutting plans required near streams.

While I do recommend the lower-elevation portions of the region, I don’t think that the current Citadel plan has much chance of success. And as long as ex-felon Mr. Kerodin is in the leadership, I cannot endorse it.



Letter Re: Helicopter and Fixed Wing Drones for Retreat Security

James,
I am not an RC aircraft enthusiast, but I am a pilot and an engineer, and have a few comments regarding the article “Helicopter and Fixed Wing Drones for Retreat Security”, but Long Jim.

I suggest folks consider fixed wing aircraft rather than helicopters for this mission for a number of reasons:

1. Helicopters have more moving parts, and therefore more places for a critical failure to occur that would take the aircraft out of action. This makes them less reliable (or requires higher maintenance for same level of reliability.)

2. The main advantage of a helicopter – the ability to hover – makes them an easier target.

3. Helicopters tend to be noisier than fixed wing aircraft.

4. The learning curve to fly a helicopter is steeper and more error prone. You can get around this a bit with RC helicopters by adding electronics, but this adds expense, more places for failure, and reduces the useful load of your aircraft.

In general, I would suggest the following:

1. Go with a fixed wing design, preferably something similar to “free flight” models, as these require little to no active management. This means less sophisticated electronics (less expensive, less weight) and reduces complexity.

2. Go with electric motors rather than glow plug fuel. It’s quieter, and the on board power can be used for multiple purposes.

3. Put the cameras/instruments in an external pod slung under the fuselage. This way, you are not constrained by the shape of the fuselage, and can shift the mount point to keep the center of gravity just forward of the center of lift.

4. Get your ham radio license. If you use ham radio to control the aircraft and receive the live TV signal, you can legally use more power to do it, and potentially give the aircraft much greater range.

5. Look for a camera which produces MPEG-4 data, and consider using the 1.2 Ghz ham band for the down link. Check for bandwidth compliance.

6. Consider adding a microphone to the instrument package. Hearing gunshots or vehicle noises could be useful.

– B. In the High Desert



Economics and Investing:

Forbes: Where Not to Die in 2013

Diana sent this from Coin World: Fake American Eagle silver coins surface. So henceforth, if you want to stack Silver Eagles, I’d recommend buying only sealed Monster Boxes, from a reputable dealer.

Dr. Gary North: The Luddites Among Us

Items from The Economatrix:

“Severe” Danger Looming In Corporate Bonds

Jim Rogers:  Don’t Sell Your Gold And Silver Coins

Beware “Credit Supernova” Looming Ahead:  Pimco’s Bill Gross



Odds ‘n Sods:

News from west of the Redoubt: Cascadia earthquake, tsunami could cost Oregon economy $32 billion (Thanks to Mark R. for the link.)

   o o o

A Sandy Hook dad lays it down straight.

   o o o

Idaho residents: Armageddon Armory in Nampa, Idaho has kindly donated an Anderson free floated AM-15 with RU85 coating, a red dot sight, tactical case, and 5 magazines for a raffle. All proceeds go to the Boise Rescue Mission Veterans Program. One Dollar per entry. Must be 18 years of age and an Idaho resident legal to own firearms. The drawing will be Saturday May 25th.

   o o o

News Media Scrub Cop Murderer’s Manifesto of Pro-Obama, Hillary, MSNBC, CNN, Gay, and Anti-Gun Comments. In related news: Cops Hunting for Ex-LAPD Officer Shoot the Wrong Person. Twice.

   o o o

For those considering Panama as an offshore haven, you should read about Boquete.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“A secret Justice Department memo leaked out day before yesterday. Yankee government claims right to kill (assassinate) US citizens even if no intelligence shows they are planning to attack the United States & the victim presents no threat, is not on a battlefield, & has not been convicted of a crime. The yankee government argues that the “authority to kill American citizen has no geographic limit.” So, if any of y’all see a drone circling your house, do NOT walk outside. If they will do it in Pakistan, they will do it in Tennessee.”  – Franklin Sanders, The Moneychanger



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 45 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 45 ends on March 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Helicopter and Fixed Wing Drones for Retreat Security, by Long Jim

I recently stopped by our local farmers market, and while ambling along with a fresh home-made fig newton, I stopped dead in my tracks when I saw what one vendor offered.

There amongst the crafts, and farm produce, was an enterprising fellow standing behind a table with a large three rotor drone helicopter. Marketed as the “Draganflyer” it has 3 dual sets of rotors stacked in pairs atop each other.

It was equipped with a gyroscope-stabilized digital video, and still camera, set-up. He was contracting with folks to fly his drone over their property and take very detailed pictures of their homes. He then sold them DVDs, or large crisp pictures suitable for framing. Which, by the way, he also offered to provide, so one could proudly display the photographs in the parlor to ones guests.

This drone was surely on par with those that the film industry uses for fly-over views in production. It was the largest one I’ve seen. The fellow was charging up to seventy-five dollars for the service, plus twenty dollars and up for big 24”x 24” or so color prints. He was so busy answering questions, and signing people up that I didn’t get a chance to ask him any technical questions, or get additional info on his setup.

The development of small drones, both fixed wing, and  rotor-craft has virtually exploded in the past few years. Companies are springing up all over offering these easy to fly platforms for film,  and surveillance, some designed for covert, as well as conventional operations. Like the many newer small arms manufacturers who, with their own input from their combat experiences, flooded the battle-rifle market niche’ with variations of M4s, and calibers such as 6.8, and  .50 caliber Beowulf, one looking for a drone to supplement their LP/OP has a lot of choices. The range of choices, thankfully, include so many options, that one on a limited budget, all the way up to a prepper who isn’t constrained by price can pick the drone that will be of best use in his particular area of operation (AO) when TSHTF.

 The U.S. military has clearly been pushing the limits, and using every new state-of-the-art technological breakthrough available in surveillance devices since we began the war on terror. Their un-manned drones have steadily gotten larger and larger, and went from being eyes-only camera platforms, to now being armed-to-the-teeth with virtually every missile that can be fixed to an aircrafts under-carriages.

Going in the opposite direction, the military now supplies ground units a variety of  hand-launched fixed wing RC aircraft on the squad level for special operators to use as they gather recon on the battlefield. Like the “Falcon UAV”. which I saw being demonstrated on a recent episode on the Military Channel. These are small, virtually indestructible, carbon composite aircraft that are easily deployed out of a pack by one or two soldiers.

Coupled with hardened military field lap-tops and satellite links, forward recon teams can collect, and pass on, an amazing amount of real-time information, inconceivable to reconnaissance units of even a few years ago.

A quick Google research trip came up with an unbelievable number of companies offering three, four, six, and even EIGHT engined rotor craft, like the  “Hexacopter”  and the “Octocopter” .

I couldn’t guess how much money and man-hours these guys used up, in trying to outdo each other by adding on engines, and other upgrades.

These companies clearly have some tech-savvy R&D guys, who have incorporated not only the gyro-stabilized mounting systems for cameras, but have utilized software that has taken the actual flight controls to another level. The copters in even the moderately priced end of the cost spectrum have auto-pilot, built-in GPS systems, and ground sensing features. The auto-pilot and ground-sensing features allow an operator to hover the craft for many minutes, with almost no effort. Some have thermal, and/or I.R. imaging systems, and even F.L.I.R. capabilities.  Most of the drones use a LiPo battery pack, and flight times, usually depend on how much extra software and systems are drawing power aside from the motors, varies, but is usually around fifteen to twenty minutes per full charge.

Some, like the Parrot Quadracopter 4 rotor RC offering, are controlled by WiFi, and a free downloadable APP allows one to use an I-pod, I-phone or other smart device to fly the copter. This device sells on the lower end of the cost spectrum, approximately $300 USD. The others mentioned in this article are upwards of $1000 USD, and more depending on features. These machines, for the most part, are way easier to control and fly than most of the run-of-the-mill hobby/toy RC mini-helicopters one sees in Wally World-type stores.

Now I know that laying out, or budgeting, an extra five hundred to a thousand dollars might be pushing it for some of us, but I firmly believe that these RC helicopters equipped with camera capabilities are well worth the investment. Imagine a scenario where you and others in your neighborhood “bug in”, and you are faced with multiple points of entry into your subdivision via roads. You’d have to have several OP/LP’s, manned by 2-3 persons, rotating on three eight hour shifts to cover each 24 hour period. Unless you had blocked off, or made impassable, most of those ingress/egress points, that’s a lot of manpower dedicated to advance warning and perimeter protection. With a single drone, or even two or more in rotation, one person could have the helicopter or fixed wing drone hover, or circle, virtually undetected, giving a 360 degree view of the entire neighborhood. That’s a big savings, in terms of manpower hours, and supplies in not having to keep the checkpoints and OP/LP’s manned every moment of every day.

For those who plan to bug out into the wilderness, or to a primary or secondary location, especially in a heavily timbered or forested area, a high-flying set of eyes seems ideal. Combined with the possibility that there is only you and your spouse and maybe children, or just another   few couples for security, I would think that the drones would be a God-send.

If you take the time to watch the flight videos, or have had the opportunity to see close-up just how quiet these things are, you will surely appreciate their quiet-running capabilities. I have seen these being operated from the distance of half a football field away, and wouldn’t have given it a minutes notice. In an “hunker-down” situation, if there’s roving bands of bad-guys, they most certainly will approach in vehicles, and then these drones are virtually silent.

The other clear benefit to employing drones to keep watch, is that even if the device is
spotted, and even engaged and disabled, it’s much better than risking losing a member of your team, or family. Machines are expendable, and replaceable, while people clearly are not.

A much better scenario would be to be sitting snuggly in a central command area equipped with CCTV monitors, powered perhaps by a genset, or re-chargeable solar/battery banks. Or even streaming into your laptop, I-phone or I-pad, regardless of your location relevant to the drones area of observation. As to the possibility of someone actually firing on, and taking out one of these drones, I would say that an adversary would have to be a pretty good shot, if not a military-grade marksman in order to hit and disable the craft. I’d also think, that with the ability to see the bad-guys from a long way off, or at least a distance, you’d have sufficient time to exfiltrate the drone if it came to maintaining OPSEC or remaining undetected. If you took the additional measure of deploying an LP/OP a distance from your main AO, then that would give those in the primary camp a good amount of fore-warning to prevent being located and overrun. 

 This brings up another point. That being  that the drones are only as good, as the users ability to keep them powered up. There are many options available to pair the drones with solar or conventional on-grid, or off-grid recharging set-ups. One can purchase extra battery packs, and along with that, extra spare replacement parts in kit form, in case of damage to the wings, rotors, frame or other hardware or software on the units.

If you follow this link from RC Helicopter Fun, the author, using a Parrot, proceeds to give a thorough tutorial for employing that specific device, while the site also answers many of the questions a beginner may have.

My plan is to pick up a couple of the less expensive multi-rotor helicopter units, along with spare batteries, and a solar charging array. I don’t know if our plan to “bug-in” in our neighborhood will suffice when TEOTWAWKI happens, or if we’ll have to go to “Plan B” and bug out in our mobile configuration, either way, having an “eye in the sky” looking out for our security regardless of the situation, is safer, easier solution for us.



Letter Re: Advice on Dakota Alerts

Hi Jim and Readers,
My Dakota Alert works great, as long as I can keep the batteries fresh, I find that they really use the current up fast.
I did paint the outside of my "bird nest" box with paint that looks like bark and green leaf color that I purchased in the paint department at Wal-Mart. It really helps camouflage the box, and when hanging it on a tree, most people never notice it.
As for protecting the antenna, I covered it with 1/2 inch black adhesive-lined shrink tubing available from Mouser Electronics. By shrinking it on the antenna is more resistant to  moisture, and it covers the shiny antenna and gives it better concealment.

I have also adapted and camouflaged another 2 meter band yagi antenna so that when the SHTF I can place the unit much further down the road and yet still hear the signal in my receiver. – Dave in Oregon