Odds ‘n Sods:

Police stage realistic hostage drill on nursing home, terrorize unsuspecting staff – J.W.

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Meet Four Business Owners Squeezed by Operation Choke Point – H.L.

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DEA improperly paid $854,460 for passenger lists – P.M.

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The Public Theft of Private Assets Always Precedes An Economic Collapse and That Time Is Upon Us. – B.B.

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The Smart-Gun Maker Who Told Holder Off – T.P. JWR’s Comment: Mandating one company’s patented technology would be a Bill of Attainder, and hence would be unconstitutional.





Notes for Tuesday – August 12, 2014

My sons and I just wrapped up watching the “Mad Max” Trilogy (with appropriate fast-forwarding through certain parts) and thoroughly enjoyed them. That, of course, started the discussion of the much-anticipated Mad Max 4 “Fury Road”. We ended up finding this 4-part YouTube video of leaked pictures, concept art, and behind-the-scenes photographs. It’s kind of dated, but perhaps you will find them as entertaining as we did.

YouTube Video: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,400+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  12. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Pre- and Post-SHTF Vehicle Operations and Preparation, By C.C.K.

Ask yourself this question: How will you get to your retreat when the SHTF? Do you imagine it will be easy? Even if you live at your retreat, there is still a good chance you work away from home. What about you city dwellers planning to jet out hundreds of miles away to a safer place? While getting there now may not be to difficult, this can all change in a heartbeat. Are you even prepared to deal with a simple breakdown, getting stranded, or a roadside medical emergency? Chances are that your pre- and post-SHTF travel plans aren’t as squared away as you may think. This is the reason I am writing this piece. I would like to share some words of wisdom and food for thought on vehicle-based travel, from a preparedness standpoint.

Let me begin by giving a short explanation of my credentials. I’m a driver! That’s what I’ve always done, and I’m quite good at it. It sounds boring, I know, but let me explain a bit. I started driving around my family farm at about age thirteen, in support of our family farm operation, hauling fuel, baler twine, tools, and whatnot out to the fields. I then graduated to semi trucks at age sixteen. A couple years later, I joined the United States Marine Corps. When my recruiter stopped by one day to see me at work, he witnessed me backing a truck into what he thought was a tight spot. I guess he was impressed, because he asked if I wanted to drive trucks for the Marines. That’s when I became a 3531 Motor Transport Operator. In this capacity I have done basically anything you can think of in terms of tactical vehicle operation. I’ve driven HMMWV’s (Humvees), 7-Tons, Dumps, and the 10-wheeled LVSR. I’ve served in the capacity of convoy commander and security/machine gunner, among other things. While you may be thinking that this is over the top to the average driver, there are many things done in military convoys that can easily relate to the average driver. So let me begin!

Basic Vehicle Preparedness

First, let me begin with the basics. You want a vehicle that you feel will undoubtedly get you where you need to go. I’m not just talking about dependability but also capability. I know this sounds obvious, but think for a minute. If you live in the city and plan on bugging out into the sticks, your daily driver Dodge Neon might not get you there. Be realistic in what conditions you may face on your journey and determine what vehicle will suit your needs. For example, I live in rural Michigan. Anyone that knows anything about my beloved home state knows that our winters are BRUTAL!!! That being said, I refuse to own a vehicle without 4×4 capability. That’s what I feel I need in my particular environment. You should make the same assessment for your area.

Make sure your vehicle is well maintained. Oil changes, tire pressure, air filter, belts, brakes….everything! I would recommend checking over basic things weekly. It only takes a few minutes, and you may notice something that could snowball into something major down the road. One personal experience that I endured was a blown tire in a rough part of Detroit on my way home from a Tigers game. Upon crawling under my vehicle to dismount my spare I found it was rusted on, and I couldn’t get it off! I ended up limping on the rim for three miles to a tire shop to get it fixed. Now I oil the assembly under my SUV weekly to ensure it can and will come loose next time. It was a crisis that could have easily been averted, and I learned the hard way. Don’t overlook the basics!

Basic Vehicle Gear

You might have heard this on the radio as a public service announcement. I don’t want to dive too hard into this because it’s been covered so many times. I do, however, want to cover more in-depth and serious gear for SHTF voyages as we go on. So, here are some of the basics:

  • High quality first aid kit with trauma support
  • Flashlights
  • Road flares or triangles
  • Basic tools (Screwdrivers, Pliers, et cetera)
  • Tire changing tools
  • Spare tire(s) (I suggest full-sized and two tires, if you can accommodate them)
  • Extra clothes to include warming layers
  • Food
  • Water
  • Shovel or E-Tool
  • Jumper cables and/or jump starter
  • Fire extinguisher
  • Tow rope/strap/chain
  • Phone charger

There’s plenty more, but I would rather spend your time preparing you for the more serious things.

Planning for That Dreaded Day

This is where we will get more serious. The above is advice for Average Joe’s daily commute, but we’re here to get ready for the big one, right? I’m talking shut down roadways, government checkpoints, ambushes, and a complete disregard for traffic laws. Anything that could be between you and your safe haven in a post-collapse society. Don’t worry, my friends! I want to help you all get there safely.

First of all, time is of the essence. If you’re planning a pilgrimage to your retreat, plan all of your before ops procedures ahead of time. Devise a load plan for anything you may be taking with you. Don’t wait until the day of only to find out that your MRE’s or ammunition won’t all fit. Practice loading your vehicles quickly and efficiently. Also, try to have your belongings staged in a manner that will allow you to snatch them up and go. Doing this in conjunction with a solid load plan will save precious time.

When it comes to hauling your equipment in this situation I cannot recommend using a trailer. As good as you may think you are at backing one up, try doing it under extreme stress and danger– say, for instance, an ambush accompanied by gunfire. This could make what some consider an easy maneuver very difficult. Or even worse, in a panic you could forget you’re even pulling a trailer and jackknife! Now you’re in trouble. Instead, I would recommend a hitch-mounted carrier or roof-mounted carrier. These can offer surprising amounts of extra space and will not affect your handling in a measurable way.

Be sure to have fuel storage on hand to top off vehicles and to have even more, so you can handle your own refueling, along the way. Don’t expect to be able to pull into a service station, but keep cash, not plastic, handy in case you can. If you drive a pickup, it may be a good idea to invest in a bed mounted fuel transfer tank. These allow you to carry lots of extra fuel (I have seen up to 90 gallons) and can be used to fuel other vehicles, if you are traveling in a convoy. Along with fuel be sure to bring extra fluids with you. I’m talking about coolant, transmission fluid, engine oil, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid, and plenty of water. While not really necessary to keep with you daily, they may now be hard to get, and you won’t be going far without them. Also be sure to bring any spare parts you feel your vehicle could have trouble with. It could be belts, alternator, radiator hose, or battery cables. Some vehicles have a reputation for certain issues, so do a little research and plan for that.

When it comes to where you are going, have as many routes planned as you can. Also, be sure to have checkpoints and rendezvous points, in case anyone is separated. Determine any viable locations to make a planned halt for things, like refueling or bathroom breaks (if you must stop for that). Stay off the beaten path, and try to avoid areas with stop lights in the event that the grid is down. Go over your routes with everyone in your group, and memorize them as best you can. Get some road maps of your area, highlight anything you deem necessary, and study them. If you can, get your travel party together and do a dry run of some of your routes.

Convoy Operations

This is where we will talk about how exactly your convoy will function. It could be anywhere from one vehicle to a dozen, but this will give you an idea of how you can travel in a collective and tactical manner.

Just like on your retreat, there needs to be a division of labor. In the Marine Corps, we call these billets. Within your convoy, everyone should be assigned a billet. To start, you need a convoy commander, or CC. This person should not drive, if manpower allows. They need to be able to concentrate on keeping the convoy on track and making decisions on any situation that may arise. From here, you can assign an assistant convoy commander, or ACC. This person should also not drive, if possible, and can head up convoy security and obviously take over as CC, if the need arises. From here you could have many billets, but do the best you can to keep the focus on their specific job. These may include.

  • Security
  • Mechanic
  • Medic
  • Logistics (keeping track of fuel and other supplies for the trip)
  • Driver
  • Assistant Driver (helps keep the driver awake and alert and takes over when necessary)

Keep in mind that one person can assume multiple billets or even all of them, if you’re all alone. The point is to divide the workload as much as possible. Many hands make light work.

Before departure, the CC should give a quick run down on the movement, including going over the route, the order in which you want your vehicles, your planned convoy speed, and estimated travel time. Take a minute to go over any concerns and address them, if you can. You want the people in your group to feel confident and ready.

Have a solid plan, detailing how your convoy will communicate, along with a tiered plan of communication. For instance, it could be radios first, then cell phones, then horns/lights. Be sure to radio check periodically. This keeps comm up, while also waking up groggy drivers. Keep drivers off of comm! Also, keep your dash radio off, unless you’re using it for news/traffic/weather– no unnecessary distractions. Keep your weapons stored in a safe but accessible manner. You’re on the defensive side of the field, so you must be ready to act fast.

Issues with Convoys and How to Address Them

In my experience, the biggest issues are security and breakdowns. My prediction is that the main security threat post-SHTF will be ambushes from the front and roadblocks. In combat, the enemy simply wants to kill you, destroy your equipment, disrupt your supply lines, and so forth. I don’t predict this as being the case in a collapse. They will want your supplies. That will more than likely be the motive. It doesn’t pay to set off an IED on a truck that might have some stuff you want. They’re going to want to stop you and separate you from your gear. It could be making you stop and drawing you out into a firefight. It could be blowing your tires out. So how do we handle this?

Rule #1: Don’t stop!

If you hit any kind of threat, pick up the pace and push through it if you can. Being in a vehicle puts you at a tactical disadvantage of basically being in a highly visible target. As long as all vehicles can still move, keep moving. Once you feel you are beyond the threat, make a quick halt, post security, and regroup and address any issues.

Rule #2: Practice dismounting your vehicle!

If you have to exit your vehicle in an emergency, you want to have a plan. Practice getting out of your vehicle with your weapon, ready to engage. Get an idea of how you would move, if there was contact to your front vs. rear, or left vs. right. Also factor in how the vehicles in your convoy should form up when faced with a threat.

This is also a good time to state the obvious– place you’re most seasoned, competent, and level headed individuals in the lead vehicle. These are not only the people leading the way but the ones who will be laying down initial fire on any frontal engagement. Basically, much of the convoy’s fate rests with them. Make sure these people are up to the task.

When it comes to breakdowns, you want no more people than necessary out of the vehicles. This applies to all stops, in reality. There should always be someone behind the wheel ready to roll. The last thing anyone needs is a dozen people tripping over each other and trying to pile into their vehicles over a compromised tire change. Leave any issues up to the most qualified in your group, and stay in your vehicle while you post security.

Finally, when coming up with a security plan for your convoy or even yourself as an individual, look at yourself through the eyes of your aggressor. Ask yourself one more question, and think hard about it: If I was going to attack me, how would I do it? This can help to give yourself an honest assessment on your weak points and how to strengthen them.

Last but not least, I would like to close with a couple of pointers as to how many Marines get through long, boring convoys. These aren’t really suggestions but just a tongue in cheek look at how we do it, so take them for what they are worth.

  • Skoal
  • Grizzly
  • Copenhagen
  • Diapers, Bottles, or MRE bags
  • Monster or Red Bull
  • Skittles
  • Beef Jerky
  • Lots of water
  • Complaining

All kidding aside, I hope I have left you all with some useful information on how to get to where you want to go safely. I would be a fool to think that I could make you an expert in this field with my short essay, but ultimately I hope to leave you with food for thought. Stay vigilant and keep prepping, my friends!



Letter Re: Time “OUT”

Hugh,

I very much enjoyed the article. Great information. This is something that I have thought about for quite some time. My question is how do I re-synchronize my watch to the proper time if I forget and let it die overnight? Thanks for the awesome blog and all the insight. – MRM

HJL Replies: There are a variety of ways that you can use to determine the time without another watch, some more accurate than others. A Google search will reveal at least 20 different ways. There are two that I remember right off the cuff, but you have to remember that there are inaccuracies that will seep into it. Absolute accuracy isn’t as important as synchronization with members of your group or other objects. As long as everyone using the time uses the same time, the inaccuracies don’t matter.

  1. Use the sun. When the sun is at its highest point in the sky (or directly above you), it’s 1200 (hence, the term “High Noon”).
  2. Use the North Star and Ursa Major (the big dipper). This only works in the northern hemisphere. Find the North Star and Ursa Major. The two stars on the dipper portion of Ursa Major line up with the North Star. Think of this picture as a clock face (12 on top, 3 to the right, 6 on bottom, 9 to the left of the North Star). The two stars that line up are an hour hand. Find the “raw” time by locating where on the clock face the two stars are. On March 7th, Ursa Major will be exactly at 0000 on midnight. You can add one hour for every month after March 7th. (Or, you can subtract one hour for every month before March 7th.) For example, if Ursa Major is at 0200 on April 7th, the time will be 0300. Then you double the time for the actual time. If the doubled time is more than 24, subtract the number from 48. The resultant number is military time for your location. You can get as accurate as you can envision the clock face and calculate months or partial months. Every 5 days will amount to about 10 minutes. (To be precise, you will add or subtract two minutes for every day after or before March 7th.)

Both methods will give you planetary time based on your location, which will not necessarily coordinate with your time zone. Just look at a time zone map of the world and you will see why. If your goal is absolute time with regards to UTC, you will have to calculate time with regard to your position within your time zone, as well as adjustments for seasonal variance.

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Hugh

I enjoyed KT’s article on time pieces for SHTF. As a clock repairman and admirer of fine watches, I can say he has put a lot of thought into his entry. There is value in high-dollar watches, probably a much better investment than paper dollars!

I am a pocket watch guy and prefer the gentleman grade, Swiss movement of 17 to 21 jewels, stem wind stem set. Rail road watches are synonymous with “don’t drop them!” I own several good mechanical wrist watches and two Seiko battery watches. Plus, I keep a cigar box with some old watches as trade goods.

As to clocks, the Atmos is a high dollar clock and very collectible; sadly, there are some clock repairmen who will not repair them, as they require special tools to work on and are exotic in their atmospheric winding. Happily a good quality time only, 8 day, weight driven, long pendulum, wall clock with a fine threaded regulating nut on the bottom of the pendulum bob will probably keep better time and be much easier to keep running then the rotary pendulum Atmos.

At any rate for SHTF times, have both a battery clock and a mechanical clock you like and trust. Have several (the rule of 3) wind up pocket or wrist watches that suit your needs and station in life. (They are a status thing.) Sincerely – A.M.



News From The American Redoubt:

Idaho gun rights advocate Clayton Cramer has heart attack – T.H.

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It’s not an uncommon occurrence in the west, but: Rattlesnake found in Oregon TV station parking lot – RBS

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Survival bootlaces made in Idaho: flint laces – K.P.

An article on these laces: Shoelaces That Include Everything You Need To Start an Emergency Fire. I love the second comment, too.

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Idahoans spend big chunk of income on essentials – RBS





Odds ‘n Sods:

What Countries Are Currently At War? The Complete List. – H.L.

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SurvivalBlog reader B.S. sent in this link to the chemical resistance of various plastics, an invaluable tool to understand what you need to store your survival chemicals in. One size does not fit all!

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Total Breakdown In Less Than 24 Hours: Images and Videos of Missouri Riots and Looting – B.B.

Reminiscent of the Rodney King riots… And to top it off, the hacker group “Anonymous” is weighing in on the issue even before due process can be started.

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Authorities Investigating Photo of Off-Duty LAPD Officer Apparently Brandishing Gun on Road. – T.P.

This will be interesting to hear the “other” side of the story. Road rage or self defense?

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More border mayhem in Texas, completely ignored by main stream U.S. media: Mother watched two illegal immigrants – who had been deported SIX times before – gun down her off-duty Border Patrol son. – SMO



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Whenever a theory appears to you as the only possible one, take this as a sign that you have neither understood the theory nor the problem which it was intended to solve.” – Karl Popper



Notes for Monday – August 11, 2014

August 11th is the birthday of SurvivalBlog editor The Werewolf in Brazil. Feliz aniversário!

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Pantry Paratus is having a sale on of the SolarBag lasting through Wednesday, August 13, 2014. The sale includes several giveaways so you may want to take a look!



Guest Article: Substances, by Dr. Lewis Dartnell

The Knowledge: How to Rebuild our World from Scratch is a new book out in the U.S. now, and a New York Times science bestseller. If civilization does collapse, whether it’s caused by a viral pandemic, coronal mass ejection, or financial meltdown, the break in normal services is likely to cause a great deal of panic and perhaps a severe depopulation among the unprepared. The world as we know it has ended, but what now? What can the survivors do to ensure they thrive in the long-term, and how can you begin rebuilding a proficient society over the generations? Many preppers keep a large stockpile of preserved food, defensive weapons and ammunition, and other consumables, but this won’t last forever. What do you do when it starts running out? How do you teach your children to make for themselves all that they need and their children will need?

The essence of The Knowledge is a thought experiment– an exploration of the behind-the-scenes fundamentals of society. What is the crucial science and technology behind how our modern world works and how did civilization progress over the centuries? And if you ever had to, how could you avoid another Dark Ages and reboot civilization as rapidly as possible? What could you do better the second time around?

The Knowledge takes the discussion beyond many prepper books and websites that explain important topics, like survival skills, preserving food, and weapons (such as How to Survive TEOTWAWKI) and explains all you need to know in areas like agriculture, materials, energy, and transport in order to rebuild society itself, at least as far as is possible within a single book.

Below is an excerpt of the book, exclusive to SurvivalBlog, from the section dealing with creating crucial substances for yourself.

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Substances

Even before humanity began to settle down and the first cities were founded in Mesopotamia, our lives depended on the deliberate extraction, manipulation, and exploitation of natural chemicals. Over the centuries we’ve learned new ways to interconvert between different substances, transforming those that can be most easily acquired from our surroundings into those that we need the most, and producing the raw materials with which our civilization has been built. Our success as a species has come not just from mastering farming and animal husbandry or employing tools and mechanical systems to ease labor; it also derives from the proficiency with which we can provide substances and materials with desirable qualities.

The first substance that a recovering post-apocalyptic society will need to begin mining and processing for itself, because of its multitude of functions that are absolutely critical to the fundamental operations of any civilization, is calcium carbonate. This simple compound, and the derivatives easily produced from it, can be used to revive agricultural productivity, maintain hygiene and purify drinking water, smelt metals, and make glass. It also offers a crucial construction material for rebuilding and provides key reagents for rebooting the chemical industry.

Coral and seashells are both very pure sources of calcium carbonate, as is chalk. In fact, chalk is also a biological rock: the white cliffs of Dover are essentially a 100-meter-thick slab of compacted seashells from an ancient seafloor. But the most widespread source of calcium carbonate is limestone. Luckily, limestone is relatively soft and can be broken out of a quarry face without too much trouble, using hammers, chisels, and pickaxes. Alternatively, the scavenged steel axle from a motor vehicle can be forged into a pointed end and used as a drill to repeatedly drop or pound into the rock face to create rows of holes. Ram these with wooden plugs and then keep them wet so that they swell and eventually fissure the rock. But pretty soon you’ll want to reinvent explosives (Chapter 11) and use blasting charges to replace this backbreaking labor.

Calcium carbonate itself is routinely used as “agricultural lime” to condition fields and maximize their crop productivity. It is well worth sprinkling crushed chalk or limestone on acidic soil to push the pH back toward neutral. Acidic soil decreases the availability of the crucial plant nutrients we discussed in Chapter 3, particularly phosphorus, and begins starving your crops. Liming fields helps enhance the effectiveness of any muck or chemical fertilizers you spread.

It is the chemical transformations that limestone undergoes when you heat it, however, that are particularly useful for a great range of civilization’s needs. If calcium carbonate is roasted in a sufficiently hot oven—a kiln burning at least at 900°C—the mineral decomposes to calcium oxide, liberating carbon dioxide gas. Calcium oxide is commonly known as burned lime, or quicklime. Quicklime is an extremely caustic substance, and is used in mass graves—which may well be necessary after the apocalypse—to help prevent the spread of diseases and to control odor. Another versatile substance is created by carefully reacting this burned lime with water. The name quicklime comes from the Old English, meaning “animated” or “lively,” as burned lime can react so vigorously with water, releasing boiling heat, that it seems to be alive. Chemically speaking, the extremely caustic calcium oxide is tearing the molecules of water in half to make calcium hydroxide, also called hydrated lime or slaked lime.

Hydrated lime is strongly alkaline and caustic, and has plenty of uses. If you want a clean white coating for keeping buildings cool in hot climes, mix slaked lime with chalk to make a whitewash. Slaked lime can also be used to process wastewater, helping bind tiny suspended particles together into sediment, leaving clear water, ready for further treatment. It’s also a critical ingredient for construction, as we’ll see in the next chapter. It’s fair to say that without slaked lime, we simply wouldn’t have towns and cities as we recognize them. But first, how do you actually transform rock into quicklime?

Modern lime works use rotating steel drums with oil-fired heating jets to bake quicklime, but in the post-apocalyptic world you’ll be limited to more rudimentary methods. If you’re really pulling yourself up by your bootstraps, you can roast limestone in the center of a large wood fire in a pit, crush and slake the small batches of lime produced, and use them to make a mortar suitable for building a more effective brick-lined kiln for producing lime more efficiently.

The best low-tech option for burning lime is the mixed-feed shaft kiln: essentially a tall chimney stuffed with alternating layers of fuel and limestone to be calcined. These are often built into the side of a steep hill for both structural support and added insulation. As the charge of limestone settles down through the shaft, it is first preheated and dried by the rising draft of hot air, then calcined in the combustion zone before it cools at the bottom, and the crumbling quicklime can be raked out through access ports. As the fuel burns down to ash and the quicklime spills out the bottom, you can pile in more layers of fuel and limestone at the top to keep the kiln going indefinitely.

A shallow pool of water is needed for slaking the quicklime, and you could use a salvaged bathtub. The fine particles produced will turn the water milky before gradually settling to the bottom and agglutinating as the mass absorbs more and more water. If you drain off the limewater, you’ll be left with a viscous sludge of slaked-lime putty. Limewater is used to produce gunpowder, and the slaked lime is a critical ingredient for construction: making a mineral glue for sticking together fired-clay bricks or gravel for concrete, as we’ll see in the next chapter. Another fundamental use of lime is for making soap.

Soap can be made easily from basic stuff in the natural world around you and will be an essential substance in the aftermath for averting a resurgence of preventable diseases. Health education studies in the developing world have found that nearly half of all gastrointestinal and respiratory infections can be avoided simply by regularly washing your hands.

Oils and fats are the raw material of all soaps. So, somewhat ironically, if you carelessly splash bacon fat onto your shirt cooking breakfast, the very substance you use to clean it out again can itself be derived from lard. The key step in making soap is to chemically break open, or “hydrolyze” the fatty molecules, and for this you need a potent alkali. Alkalis are the opposites of acids, and when the two meet they neutralize each other to produce water and a salt. Coated with a fur of these long soap molecules, a small droplet of oil is stabilized in the midst of the water that rejects it, and so grease can be lifted off skin or fabric and be washed away. The bottle of “invigorating, reviving, hydrating, deep clean sea splash” men’s shower gel in my bathroom lists nearly thirty ingredients. But alongside all the foaming agents, stabilizers, preservatives, gelling and thickening agents, perfumes, and colorants, the active ingredient is still a soap-like mild surfactant based on coconut, olive, palm, or castor oil.

The pressing question, therefore, is where to get alkali in a post-apocalyptic world without reagent suppliers. The good news is that survivors can revert to ancient chemical extraction techniques and the most unlikely-seeming source: ash.

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Dr. Lewis Dartnell is a research fellow at the University of Leicester, England, and the author of The Knowledge: How to Rebuild our World from Scratch, out now with Penguin Press. Explore extra material on the book’s website: www.the-knowledge.org



Scot’s Product Review: Chinook MinimalistPak

Chinook Medical Gear, Inc. calls the kit I’m reviewing the MinimalistPak. They mean minimal in terms of size and cost. It’s not minimal, however, in terms of what you can do with it. It’s a good basic kit for handling most of the injuries one might get on a hike or perhaps while doing a roadside repair on a recalcitrant car. It can handle a good sized cut, though I would want more with a gunshot wound or other major injury. It is one of the seven kits available in their PAK line of first aid kits.

The kit comes double sealed. The first layer is a heat-sealed, zip closure plastic bag, which protects the kit that is packed in a LOKSAK OPSAK– a high quality waterproof clear plastic pouch that also has a zip closure. These bags are serious business; think sandwich bag on steroids. It is rated for keeping the contents dry down to 200 feet. I had no way to test that since I avoid places where I can’t breathe without extra gear, but it is comforting to see that level of confidence in the packaging. This version of the bag is also supposed to contain odors.

Here are some of the details on what you are getting:

Dimensions: 3.75” x 8” x 2.25” Weight: 9.2 oz

PERSONAL PROTECTION: 1 Emergency/Survival Blanket; 2 Nitrile Gloves, LG, BK; 3 Personal Antimicrobial Wipes

IMMOBILIZATION: 1 Elastic Bandage Wrap, 2″x4.5 yd

INSTRUMENTS: 1 Tweezers; 1 Flat Duct Tape, 1.89″x2 yd, OD

WOUND / BURN / BLISTER: 1 Trauma Pad, 5″x9″; 3 Burn Jel, 3.5 g.; 1 pkg Band-Aid, 30 ct; 6 Knuckle bandages; 6 Moleskin; 1 Stretch Gauze 3″x12 yd; 1 Suture Strip Plus, 0.25″x4″; 2 Non-Adherent Dressing, 3″x4″ 3; Povidone-Iodine Prep Pad; 4 Sterile Gauze Pad, 3″x3″

MEDICATION: 2 Aspirin, 2/pk (Analgesic); 2 Diamode, 1/pk (Anti-diarrheal); 2 Diphen, 1/pk (Antihistamine); 2 Ibuprofen, 2/pk (Anti-inflammatory); 3 Hydrocortisone 1% Creme, 1.5 g; 3 Triple Antibiotic Ointment, 0.9 g; 1 Oral Rehydration Salts, 12.5 g

Chinook is marketing this as a highly portable kit that you can have close by at all times, thanks to its small size and light weight. Since it only costs $27.00, it is also an economical solution, economical enough to be able to have several kits. There could be one in every car as well as one at home and another at work. When you need first aid, you need it now, so keep a kit close by.

Most of the contents in the kit are in their own zip closure plastic bags, for extra protection as well as to keep the contents sorted. The tweezers are held in a small, clear cylindrical container, which is a good thing as they are the sharp pointy ones that work so well for removing splinters or ticks. The container keeps them from punching holes in the LOKSAK or the other supplies. The various pads, suture strips, and gauze items are in their own sterile packaging.

Everything in the kit looked fresh, and the items with expiration dates were reasonably far into the future. I really liked the fact that they marked the kit’s label and supply list with the expiration date of the first item to go. You need to check your kits, by the way, on a regular basis and replace things that are old. Expiration dates are often very conservative, but pay attention to them. Watch out especially for adhesives and elastic items. Heat in a car can shorten the life of these products. Try a Band-Aid or two to make sure they still stick. See if the elastic bandages are still stretchy. Sacrifice some of your old stuff for practice.

Going through the kit, you will find a pair of the exam gloves that we all recognize are needed for dealing with non-family members. I probably won’t waste time putting them on to treat my wife or son (unless cleaning up after vomiting or worse), but I certainly would if helping a stranger. You also get some sterilizing wipes for cleaning up after working on someone. This is always a good idea, especially if dealing with an illness.

You get a very useful elastic bandage that could be used to hold on a dressing, put pressure on a sprain, immobilize a joint, or even make a sling. It could also be combined with something rigid to form a splint. It has a Velcro tab on one end to help secure it in place. I will admit to preferring cohesive wrap, which does pretty much the same but sticks to itself, so you don’t have to worry about making it stay on. The traditional elastic bandage is thicker, so you have to use more cohesive wrap to get the same amount of pressure. Cohesive costs more, though, and this is an entry level kit aimed at getting you a lot of capability for not much money. These types of products aren’t sterile, by the way, so you don’t want to put them directly over a wound, unless it is all you have and you are trying to stop bleeding.

Don’t joke about the duct tape in the kit. It is very useful stuff for first aid. You can use it to hold on a bandage, secure a splint, fashion a makeshift tourniquet, close a wound, or roll it up for someone to bite on if they are having a seizure or need a bullet to bite on for pain. Some people swear by it for protecting blisters, though I would want something between the blister and the tape. One instructor told me it wasn’t needed, but the thought of peeling it off a blister doesn’t sound like much fun. What’s really nice about the duct tape in this kit is that it is flat and has a backing you peel off before using. That saves room over the usual roll form. There isn’t enough here to make one, but I’ve seen stretchers made from the stuff too, so it doesn’t hurt to keep a roll nearby.

You get a nice pair of small tweezers that are not only great for splinters and ticks but also holding all sorts of other things. Just remember when you borrow them for some non-medical chore to put them back afterwards.

There is a pretty fair selection of dressings in the kit. There are a bunch of Band-Aids– 30, in fact, including small ones, medium- sized ones, and large ones for all those various wounds and scratches we get so often. You get moleskin for blisters and some knuckle bandages. You then move up to the bigger stuff. I really like suture strips for holding cuts closed, and you get a set of them. Even minor cuts in bad spots can be really annoying and take forever to heel, if they keep opening; suture strips will help them heel far faster. You then find some basic 3”x3” gauze pads, which can be used for cleaning wounds or covering them. They aren’t the best thing for a burn, though, but you also get some non-adherent pads that won’t stick. If there is bleeding, you get a combine pad, also often called a trauma pad. Finally, there is roll of gauze bandage that could be used directly on a wound, as it is sterile, or used to hold another dressing on. I’ve seen makeshift slings formed with the stuff, and you could use it to pack a deep wound, such as a gunshot.

One product I was not familiar with in the kit was WATER-JEL BURN JEL. It is a thick liquid for minor burns, which we all know can be very painful. I actually got a patient for it the day after the kit showed up when my nine-year-old spent too much time in the sun and got a pretty parched face. He said it really helped, though it gives off some fumes that he told me made his eyes sting a little. I watched when he put it on, and he didn’t get in his eyes; so, I suspect it was the tea tree oil or lidocaine in it that bothered him. He said it helped the burn enough to make the sting worth putting up with. When I looked the stuff up on Amazon, I found that it gets enough rave reviews to provide a vote of confidence in it. I’m going to buy a box of the packets as minor burns are common during Scout camping.

There are some packets of Povidone-iodine wipes to get things clean before putting those dressing on.

You get some meds too. There is the usual aspirin, and they also give you some ibuprofen. Although aspirin will work as an anti-inflammatory, my doctor says ibuprofen is better. I was happy to see an anti-diarrheal as well as an antihistamine. The runs and allergic reactions aren’t fun, so it is nice to have these along. I might have also liked having some acetaminophen in the mix. It’s good for kids. There are also some people who feel it works better for them than the other two.

As expected, there are some packets of antibiotic ointment for wounds and hydrocortisone ointment. The last is very welcome for skin irritation from allergic reactions or rashes. Itching is not fun, and this stuff can help take it away.

A surprise for me in this kit was the packet of rehydration salts. It’s good to have this stuff around in the event someone forgets to drink enough or they have an illness with a lot of vomiting and diarrhea. You don’t often find this in an entry level kit, but I think it reflects Chinook’s desire to make this a good kit for outdoors folks. You can make your own for less, but it won’t be sealed in a long life packet.

Chinook is very generous with some of the small items, and you may feel you could remove a few of them to make the kit more compact. These are things like the small Band-Aids, mole skin, and knuckle wraps. I haven’t been able to use this many Band-Aids on a Cub Scout Pack camp out, which usually is a major consumer of them. If you live in a really warm climate, you might consider ditching the survival blanket, but I’ve heard of people dying of hypothermia in South Florida, so I wouldn’t. When you use one of these for a cold victim, don’t be concerned about its lack of insulation. They are amazing at reflecting and retaining one’s own body heat. We almost gave the practice patient a heat stroke when we wrapped him with one in a first aid class. It was only about 70 degrees, but we had him sweating in under a minute and begging to get out. The blanket also makes a very visible signal device and can serve as a makeshift poncho or shelter to keep you dry.

Okay, so what’s lacking here? Considering the price, that isn’t a fair question. A better question would be what should you add after getting this one. Well, it is one of a series of compact kits Chinook is offering. The first one that draws my eye is their BleederPak. In a survival scenario, having someone bleed out would be really awful. A real tourniquet and compression bandage could make the life or death difference. You get that in this kit. It comes with the SWAT-T tourniquet, which I’ve written about before. It is a wide elastic band that you can wrap tightly around the affected limb. I’ve seen highly positive reports on it, and my doctor thinks it is a better mousetrap than the strap types, both for stopping blood and doing less damage. My only concern is that I think I would have much more trouble self-applying it than I would one of the strap ones. They cost more, though, so this is a good choice for this sort of kit. You also get a QuikClot dressing with a hemostat in it to stop bleeding. There is a compression bandage and some compressed gauze you can use to pack a wound. This kit adds a tremendous amount of capability to the MinimalistPak. It also comes in the LOKSAK for protection.

From here, I would probably get the GermPak which they might want to call the Germ-HeartPak, as it includes a face mask for CPR. You also get some more antiseptic wipes, two respirator face masks, more gloves, and a bag for bio waste.

The ToolPak would also be on my list, competing with the GermPak. It gives you some very useful EMT shears (so you can cut clothes or bandages off people without adding to their wounds), a thermometer (important for illnesses and monitoring for infection), a penlight, a marker, and more duct tape. There are also some safety pins that can help hold bandages together or hold wounds together.

Like all of the other Paks, these two come in LOKSAKs.

The prices are:

  • MinimalistPak $26.95
  • BleederPak $34.95
  • GermPak $9.95
  • ToolPak $21.95

You can also buy their Chinook6Pak for $119.95. In it, you get all of the kits, less the MinimalistPak, but all of the items from the Minimalist are contained in other ones. You could then go to the home store and get one of those tool bags they usually have on sale and have a very capable kit.

Chinook has some reasonably priced and well thought out kits, and they are worth a good look if you don’t already have first aid capabilities. Don’t forget that you need to have this capability with you. That means having more than one kit. You need one in each car, at home, and at work. It gets pricey, but that’s life… or death.

Chinook is based in Durango, Colorado and assembles the kits using individual items from a number of suppliers.

I want to stress the need for training. I’ve written about this before and, with the tolerance of my editors, I’m going to reiterate that gear is worthless without skills. The Red Cross offers classes around the country. I particularly recommend their Wilderness First Aid class. It was developed with the Boy Scouts of America. It takes two days and helps you deal with things when out of range of immediate emergency response. It is, however, only an introduction and doesn’t deal with some of the issues a prepper might face.

I’ve had recommendations for the following courses from other organizations:

Armageddon Medicine

National Outdoor Leadership School

Remote Medicine International

Wilderness Medical Associates International

Stonehearth Learning Opportunities

Advanced Wilderness Life Support

This is, by no means, an exhaustive list of first aid training. These are just the few that I know about that have reputable recommendations. If you know of others, please drop me an email.

Your local college or university may have classes intended for EMTs and paramedics that could be useful, though they are usually based on the idea that there is a trauma center nearby.

You can find tons of videos on YouTube, but I’m leery of them unless I can verify the quality of the people posting the video. Vendors often post videos on how to use their products and those are usually pretty good. A doctor friend highly recommended this one, 9mm vs .45 vs Rifle, A Dr.’s View of Gunshot Wounds. You have to register your age to view it, as it is graphic and restricted to adults. There isn’t as much about treatment as I would like, but it is still an interesting look at gunshot wounds. I say again that it is graphic in parts. I did not enjoy viewing it and had to make myself finish as I thought it had training value.

The bottom line is that you, or someone in your group, needs to get some serious training along with some serious first aid supplies. Ideally, everyone would get a basic Red Cross class and, if possible, the Red Cross Wilderness one. Don’t forget CPR, which you can get from Red Cross or the American Heart Association. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Creamed Tuna, by R.B.

One versatile recipe that we love is Creamed Tuna. This is good comfort food. You can serve it on mashed potatoes (our favorite), noodles, rice, or toast. You can vary the protein, and instead of using canned tuna you can use canned salmon, shrimp, chicken, or even beef. It is easy to make. The recipe can easily be doubled, and you can make it with what you have in your pantry. Basically, it is a white sauce with whatever meat you add to it.

Ingredients:

  • 2 generous Tbsp butter
  • 2 generous Tbsp flour
  • 1 to 1 1/3 cup milk (fresh or reconstituted dry milk)
  • 1- 7 oz can tuna, salmon, shrimp, crab, chicken, or beef (We like good quality Albacore Tuna, preferably home canned)
  • salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, make a roux with the butter and flour by melting the butter and whisking in the flour over medium heat. Keep whisking occasionally for 1-2 minutes so the raw flour taste will cook off. Slowly whisk in the milk, using the lesser amount, and continue to cook over medium heat until it thickens. Add more milk if you want a thinner sauce. Add the tuna (or other meat), breaking up the chunks, and heat through, adding salt and pepper to taste. Serve over your favorite bed of mashed potatoes, rice, noodles, or toast. Serves 4. This is great with peas or green beans served alongside. Enjoy!

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!