Odds ‘n Sods:

For those who prefer to read novels in Spanish, my second novel, Survivors (“Supervivientes“) is now available in trade paperback and and ebook for Kindle readers. And of course Patriots (“Patriotas“) is also available in Spanish. – JWR

o o o

New lab incidents fuel fear, safety concerns in Congress. – G.P.

o o o

iPhone ATM PIN code hack- HOW TO PREVENT. – T.P.

Hugh Adds: Careful with this video … I got sucked into this guy’s YouTube channel and spent nearly an hour watching his videos before I realized I was off on a tangent. Very enjoyable.

o o o

“We Have Been a Paramilitary Organization”: How the Police Talk When They Think We’re Not Listening. – B.B.

o o o

New Jersey Newspapers Call For Mandatory Gun Confiscation



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Without the right of secession, there is no freedom. Any entity that is part of a union but does not have the right to leave is not free.” – Bruce Willis



Notes for Monday – September 22, 2014

September 22nd in the birthday of the late Lieutenant Colonel Ronald Reid-Daly, who founded and commanded the Rhodesian Selous Scouts. He was born 1928, and he died August 9, 2010. His history of the Selous Scouts, titled Pamwe Chete, is fascinating to read, but it is a very hard-to-find book.

I should also mention that I jumped the gun last month. September 22nd, 1290 is the birthday of one of my favorite fictional characters, Bilbo Baggins (in shire reckoning).

o o o

Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Home Power Systems: Photovoltaics by L.K.O.

[Editor’s Note: This article is part of a series of feature articles by our Central Rockies Regional Editor about alternative/sustainable/renewable energy (RE) solutions for self-sufficiency. Previous related articles in SurvivalBlog that complement this one are: “Home Power Systems: Batteries,” “Home Inverter Comparison: Off Grid and Grid Tied,” “Home Power Systems: Micro Hydro”, and “Energy Efficiency and Conservation.” Upcoming article topics in this Home Power Systems series include: Wind Generators, Solar Water Distillers, Solar Ovens, and Solar Water Heating.]

Photovoltaic History: Maturing technology and infrastructure

Photovoltaics, or PV for short, is the technology that converts sunlight directly into electricity. PV has come a long way from the discovery of the photovoltaic effect in 1839 by French physicist Alexandre-Edmund Becquerel, the first practical silicon solar cell in 1954 by Bell Labs, commercial production by Western Electric at $1,785/Watt a year later, and Telstar’s power source in 1962. Early commercial uses included mountaintop radio repeaters, orbiting satellite power, and various experimental uses. Most of the early consumer adoption, starting in the 1960s and 1970s, was from off-grid pioneers who were challenged by high prices and unwieldy technology of not only the PV panels themselves but also the battery, inverter, and charge controller technologies needed to complete a practical home power system. In 1977, PV panels were first installed on the White House and world-wide production of PV cells surpassed 500 kW; a year later the first solar-powered calculators hit the market.

Even in those early days of PV, the simplicity of energy that comes directly from the sun, uses no moving parts and lasts for decades lured experimenters onward to refine and move towards perfecting the technology. There are numerous other reasons why one would want to switch from grid power to solar, including self-reliance/self-sufficiency/independence, reliability/stability, environmental, financial, maintenance and social/geopolitical ones; this article gives a quick overview of these motivations for PV use.

Home Power magazine, which started in the late 1980s, did much (and still does to this day) to chronicle, educate, and nurture the fledgling home energy market with PV as the flagship technology, adding inverters, home-scale wind turbines, and small hydro as complementary options that work best together to provide year-round energy coverage. Home solar electric systems were spurred onward in that era by surplus PV panels that still had significant useful life after their commercial and government lifespans had been reached; those PV pioneers showed that, even with the growing pains of an immature technology at the time, it still was a viable alternative. Inverters now put out better sine wave AC power than any utility company, leap-frogging over the early awkward days of modified square-wave systems that were buzzy, inefficient, and required a lot more technical savvy to install and maintain. Battery and other interconnection technologies and safety advances have moved home PV systems from home-brew and experimental status, a few decades ago, to mainstream appliance status today.

As the technology and momentum of economies of scale have improved, the cost per PV watt has continued to plummet, from over $70/Watt in 1977, to a mere 36 cents/Watt today, in 2014. Contrast this with the price of gasoline (the linked chart is adjusted for inflation) over about the same period of time, and PV looks more and more attractive all the time, compared with running a generator as a primary alternative energy source, for example. Nowadays one doesn’t have to go far to see PV panels used on traffic lights and equipment, on commercial buildings, and in ever-increasing numbers on residential buildings as well. A couple of decades ago, the prohibitive cost of PV panels and all the related gear (batteries still being one of the more expensive components, but advances are happening there as well) needed to complete a PV home power system stretched out the “break-even”– the time for a system to pay for itself– to spans of a decade or more. Now, with this time frame shrinking due to steadily declining costs of essential all-system components, more companies are manufacturing PV and more are sprouting up to offer PV home installations, sales, and maintenance service.

Recently a milestone was reached in a country not particularly notorious for having abundant solar energy. Germany is evidently producing over half of its electrical energy from photovoltaics! This related document has an interesting map/graphic on page 12, showing the theoretic space requirement to meet the electricity demand of the world, and it appears to be about half the size of Portugal; this is more evidence that the technology, infrastructure, and momentum is growing to make solar electricity a maturing option to our planet’s energy needs. So the obvious question arises: Why aren’t other countries, particularly ones like the United States that have significantly more solar potential, following suit, or better yet, leading the way in this regard? Instead of pondering this rhetorical question from a theoretical standpoint, a more relevant contemporary practical question might be to ask when, rather than if, is the best time to incorporate PV in a home energy system. Obviously location is important; as you can see from this solar map of the USA, if you live in the deserts of southern California, Arizona, New Mexico, or west Texas, your solar PV potential is superb, but if can make a go of it, why not other less sunny locations as well?

If you’ve eagerly followed this industry for decades, or even if you have not but are now curious, and have waited until PV systems are cost effective, your wait may be over. According to the “Trends in PV & Grid Residential Electricity Prices (U.S. Annual Averages)” chart (one of the clickable rotating slides on the page), it appears that last year (2013) the cost of Solar (which continues to drop) overtook the cost of Grid power (which continues to climb) at about 12 cents per kiloWatt-hour (kWh). What this means is that, in general, in the U.S., it’s now more cost effective to use solar than grid power, with everything being equal. What are we waiting for? If you live in a densely wooded area in Alaska with zero solar potential or have draconian CC&Rs in your neighborhood against solar, you might have other obstacles, but now, at least the overall cost issue should no longer be a primary deterrent to at least considering a PV-powered home. 🙂

PV System Types

To get a sense of the general categories of PV systems available and which might be suitable for a use you and your family might have, let’s explore four basic types of PV systems:

PV-Direct: The simplest of systems with the fewest components, a system of this type in simplified form consists primarily of a PV panel (or panels) and whatever load is being powered, along with whatever wiring is needed. Since there is no storage (e.g. batteries), this type of system will not work if the sun isn’t shining; the best uses for systems like this include ventilation fans and other efficient air-conditioning (since that’s usually when those loads are needed most anyway) and water pumping.

Off-grid: This type of system does not interface with utility (grid) power at all. These originally were most common in remote locations where the cost of bringing in power lines was prohibitive, and they were the only viable option in many cases. With today’s improvements in design, efficiency, and performance, combined with the low cost of newer systems, even locations with grid power available might consider an off-grid system because of the advantages of independence, which include a somewhat simpler system, since grid disconnects and switching aren’t required, to say nothing of the legal, regulatory, and financial hook-ups required; although, to be fair, these “hoops” are getting smaller and easier to jump through than ever, compared to the PV pioneer days. These systems need a battery (or bank of interconnected batteries) to store PV-acquired solar electricity for nighttime and/or overcast weather usage, a charge controller to protect the battery/bank from overcharging, and optionally (although nowadays this is the most common choice) an inverter to convert the Direct Current (DC) power from the PV array to Alternating Current (AC) for use with AC household appliances, and all the required disconnects, monitoring, and associated electrical safety gear. Fortunately, the equipment needed for a system like this is now easily and safely installed by certified professionals or any homeowners who will avail themselves of a bit of training, which can be found online for free.

Grid-tied systems with battery-backup: Similar to an off-grid setup, this approach is in some ways the “best of both worlds” approach, in that it provides grid backup for the local power (PV and/or wind, micro-hydro, generator, or other source/s) and local backup for the grid power. It’s also the most complex and hence, most expensive, but this might be worth it, considering the versatility, and particularly situations where reliable power is a must regardless of any other considerations. If you run life-sustaining biomedical equipment or run Internet servers or have other critical power-reliability requirements, this might be ideal for your situation. The additional components (above what is needed for a comparable off-grid system) include manual and/or automatic switching, often mandated, or at least regulated by the utility company and typically metering of both grid-supplied and locally-supplied power. Speaking of metering, an important consideration to make before deciding on a system of this type, is whether or not your location has net metering available and what the particular details are. For example, in some locations, e.g. Ashland, Oregon, will purchase excess power, if you generate more than you use in a given month, at full retail, rather than wholesale prices. Grid parity is a related topic you might want to look into. Even more fundamental than this, some locations still don’t allow full hybrid systems like these, so the point might be moot; always check with local, state, and other regulatory agencies and utility companies before making any significant investments in time or energy with a system like this to make sure it will be viable, not merely from a technological and financial point of view but also from a political one.

Grid-tied systems without batteries: Similar to the grid-tied systems with batteries, these systems provide power from both local and off-site sources, but if the off-site (grid) power goes down, you’ll be without power for the duration of the outage. If you have a reliable grid utility with minimal outages, this type of system might work for you. (A bit of phone research a decade ago revealed that the home I bought was on the same sub-grid as the local hospital, which had multiple backup sources and explained why outages were so rare, compared with other places I had lived; this home would have been a good candidate for a system like this.) The “grid-outage-becomes-my-outage” disadvantage is somewhat mitigated by the advantage of reduced system cost, since batteries (and to a lesser extent charge controllers) are non-trivial expenses in systems that store excess power in batteries, with or without the grid-tied connections. Systems like these can be installed by companies, such as RealGoods Solar, SolarCity, SunRun, Trinity Solar, and others. If you opt to go with a system like this (and all of the siting, regulatory, zoning, CC&Rs*, legal, financing and other issues have been addressed), most likely you won’t need to be directly involved in the selection of PV panels and other components, since an installer would likely guide your family through this process, but you might still want to familiarize yourself with the technology, which the remainder of this article will address.

* If your Home-Owner’s Association (HOA) has Covenants, Conditions & Restrictions (CC&Rs) you might want to check their rules first, since their local jurisdiction might constrain the nature and scope of your proposed solar project, even if city, county, state, and federal particulars are all a “go”. For example, if you’re on 40 acres with no visible neighbors for miles, there’s not likely to be much in the way of issues in this regard, but if your suburban neighbors “view” looks directly at your roof from 50 feet away, getting “buy-in” from the neighbors and the HOA is well advised. Also, if you’re considering a grid-tied system, make sure you check into your home’s specific net-metering and the wholesale/retail particulars with your electric utility, and get all pertinent details before calculating any financial figures, such as budgets and/or break-even/payback analyses.

Enlist Expertise Before Starting Your PV Project

For all of these system types, it is vitally important that you do your research first; research technical requirements, such as power budget, anticipated loads and peak demand, system sizing, and so forth, and all the safety, regulatory, and utility requirements, which will vary by location, type of system, and what sources you plan to use (e.g. PV, small/micro-hydro, wind, et cetera). Even if you plan to do much of the design and/or installation yourself, it is always a good idea to have a licensed solar professional review your proposed PV (and/or other alternate energy) system before you begin and certainly before you invest your hard-earned time and money into a new system. Also, make sure to check if there are Renewable Energy (RE) Incentive programs and/or Net Metering policies in effect.

Molecular Nitty-gritty

Most solar cells that comprise PV solar panels are made of silicon, which is not any different, in principle, from the sand on your favorite beach or the silicon in SiO2 (Silicon Dioxide, a.k.a. quartz) in your favorite hiking mountain, but those silicon atoms are obviously a bit more sophisticated after they’ve been made into PV solar energy cells. The two primary categories of PV cells are crystalline silicon or thin-film. Crystalline silicon modules, which enjoyed earlier widespread adoption in the history of PV, can use monocrystalline, multicrystalline, or ribbon silicon. Here’s an article with more details on The Difference Between Thin-Film And Crystalline-Silicon Solar Panels. Thin film includes amorphous silicon and a variety of other semiconductor technologies, such as Copper Indium Gallium Diselenide (CIGS), Cadmium Telluride, and other compositions. While these newer approaches to making PV cells garner a lot of media attention, they only comprise about 20% of of the installed base of PV systems, with the crystalline modules doing the majority of the planet’s current PV solar workload.

Efficiency and System Sizing

Start here, with a conservation and efficiency overhaul, even if you end up postponing or even abandoning a RE (Renewable Energy) project. You’ll be glad you started with the essential conservation/efficiency audit, since you’ll save money and minimize your exposure/dependency on external sources of power, while reducing your family’s carbon footprint. Since PV systems (purchased outright at least) are still typically more expensive than several years worth of grid utility bills, the most important first step is almost always to do some serious-but-fun analysis, and often re-thinking, about the home energy budget. It’s fun, because if you stick with it even partial implementations can sweeten your pocketbook while reducing energy consumption. A prior article in this series details important conservation and energy efficiency considerations; a thorough review and elimination of energy wasters from small to large, including replacing watt-guzzling appliances and lighting and just plain old mindful, common sense (free!) lifestyle adjustments to one’s daily energy usage, plus (where appropriate) low-cost upgrades. Also, if remodeling or designing for new construction, solar and efficient home planning can all make a tremendous difference in the sizing of a PV system. If, for example, you can go from four dozen PV panels to two or even one dozen, that can make a tremendous difference in system cost and break-even/payback timing. Another factor to consider is that PV modules in some cases can be added to or subtracted from an installation if one’s energy budget changes, e.g. kids that take marathon showers and leave lights on 24/7 go off to college.

How Much to Hire Out?

If you have a bit of technical aptitude, possess some mechanical prowess, and like to learn new skills, you might want to consider doing some of your own solar design and/or installation with guidance from a seasoned, licensed solar expert. Since we’re talking about electrical wiring and potentially-lethal voltages and other safety considerations, an unguided installation should be out of the question. At minimum, one should enlist a licensed, solar installer with reputable credentials and references from the beginning of a PV project to, at least, double-check (reality check) your energy budget, array sizing calculations, array location, thermal factors, wiring sizing, and diagrams, component selection, safety considerations, parts list, technical skills, planning, et cetera. This will minimize expense, delay, re-work, and other costly and/or hazardous pitfalls. If you find you really enjoy this sort of work, careers in this industry are burgeoning.

PV Panel Selection

Obviously, PV panels are just one component in a Renewable Energy (RE) system, so they must be considered in the context of an overall, well-thought-out design that considers the specific home’s energy budget, array location and sizing, battery sub-system sizing, wiring and safety considerations, geographic and climatic factors, et cetera. Having made that caveat, however, one can select from an ever-growing array (pun-intended) of solar PV manufacturers, models, sizes, and other variables. Here is an extensive chart (Excel spreadsheet) of their 2012-2013 PV Module Buyer’s Guide, prepared by the folks at Home Power Magazine (currently the 2nd link on their Web Xtras page), which lists over 900 PV Manufacturer/Model combinations in the spreadsheet rows, and over two dozen parameters/specifications in the spreadsheet columns, such as rated power per square foot, module efficiency, maximum power voltage, open-circuit voltage, short-circuit current, various temperature coefficients, fuse Amperage ratings, connector types, length, width, depth, frame color, weight, overall warranty, power warranty, and more. Here’s a general overview article on Choosing PV modules from the same folks. If some of these terms don’t ring a bell, ask your solar installer or PV consultant to explain them to you, what to look for, and why.

Digging in Deeper

Since each system design is generally fairly unique, it would take volumes to cover even fairly generalized details of specific classes of PV systems; this is yet another reason to contact a solar PV pro ASAP in your design process to save you time looking into minutiae that might not apply to your particular situation. However, if you spend a little time familiarizing yourself with PV jargon, technology, systems, components, and approaches, you might find you will be better equipped to ask the right questions. If this article has piqued your interest to learn more, Home Power Magazine (among numerous online resources) in addition to helpful overviews of general subject areas, has superb coverage of both general and specific topics, such as Professional Load Analysis & Site Survey, ENERGY BASICS: Shading and Solar-Electric Systems, Free Tools for Estimating PV System Output, Successful PV Site Evaluation, Solar Equipment and Products, Optimizing a PV Array with Orientation & Tilt, iPhone Apps for Solar Geeks, PV Array Mounting Options, numerous examples of first-hand accounts and project profiles of those who have used off-grid PV systems for decades, such as this one, small, medium, and large PV systems, solar home tours, and many more.

Another excellent resource is the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), which has resources such as this Consumer’s Guide: Get Your Power from the Sun and other resources for solar and other RE topics.

Happy PV solar explorations! – L.K.O. (SurvivalBlog’s Central Rockies Regional Editor)



Scot’s Product Review: Mosin-Nagant M91/30

A reader suggested that I take a look at lower cost firearms, particularly military surplus ones, and I thought it was a great idea. The one he told me that would make a good start is the Russian Mosin-Nagant, which is currently the easiest to find and cheapest surplus rifle on the market. It is chambered in a .30 caliber round, 7.62x54R, and there are a lot of them available at the moment coming from old war reserves in Russia and Ukraine. They were refurbished and put in storage when replaced by more modern arms. Russia and Ukraine are both apparently making some money by selling them off, but with current tensions in the region today, it is hard to say how much longer we will be able to get them. There are embargos against Russia while Ukraine could decide they need to keep theirs. If you think you might want one after reading this, you probably should act in a timely manner.

I should point out that there have been Mosin-Nagants available from a number of other countries, but the Russian-made ones are what we can find easily today, so that’s what I’m writing about here.

Why, by the way, would one want an old military rifle rather than a new sporter? Cost is a huge reason. You can find them from about $130 and up in usable condition. If you are short of funds but need a hunting rifle, one of them could do the trick. Don’t write them off for self-defense, either. They are not as trendy as a tricked out AR, but they have decent accuracy and the cartridge hits hard. I know people who like to have extra weapons in case their neighbors need something during a crisis. We can debate that idea, but if it sounds good to you, the Mosin-Nagant fills that need easily. It is easy to learn to shoot, and you could outfit a squad with ammo for under $2,000, which is just a bit more than a single fancy AR with magazines will set you back. Another plus that I’ll elaborate on later is that ammunition can be had at great prices.

There is also domestic politics to consider. An old bolt action rifle is probably going to be one of the last things to get regulated.

I can’t deny that there is an historical appeal as well. I majored in military history, and apparently the interest is genetic as my nine-year-old son is equally fascinated by it. Any old rifle makes his eyes light up, and it was a joy to let him pick this one out off of the rack. Anyway, let’s get back to the rifles. They have been around for a long time; the 91 in the name stands for the year they were adopted, 1891. The Mosin-Nagant was the front line service rifle for the Russian Empire and its successor, the Soviet Union, until the SKS semi-automatic carbine was adopted in 1949. It had a front line life of 60 years, but it didn’t, however, just fade away in 1949. They are still showing up on the world’s battlefields, thanks to how widely they were distributed to Russia’s allies and communist insurgents.

In my youth, they were disparaged by most shooters as inferior to the Mauser and Springfield. I tend to agree, but there aren’t very many Springfields or Mausers available these days, and they usually cost considerably more. Despite not having the snob appeal, Mosin-Nagants are serviceable and available at good prices.

They have a five round magazine that can be fed with stripper clips or by single loading rounds through the top. Since the cartridges are rimmed, you have to take care to keep the rim of the each cartridge in front of the rim of the cartridge below it, but it isn’t hard to do.

There are three variants usually seen these days. The most common is the M91/30 rifle. The 30 stands for 1930, when the Soviets made some updates to the design. This is what the line grunts got in most of WWII. It has a long, 29-inch barrel, which is less handy than I would prefer but more manageable than I expected. The overall length is 48.5 inches. There are also carbines with 20-inch barrels that are much handier at 40-inches long. This is actually shorter than many of today’s commercial bolt rifles. The carbines would have become the standard front line weapon, but semi-autos beat them out. The last variant is the sniper rifle based on the 91/30. Mosin-Nagants that were actually built as a sniper rifle, complete with scope, are rare and probably should be considered a collectible rather than a shooter. There are, however, a lot of bits and piece out there, including replica parts, that allow folks to build reproductions. Some of the rifles sold as real snipers are probably reproductions and should have sold for less, so buyers should beware. A well done replica can, however, make a nice rifle. Be aware that Mosin-Nagant snipers aren’t what we think of as sniper rifles today. They were pretty much just a regular rifle fitted with a scope. The scope did make it easier to hit targets further away, but they were not the highly tuned weapon an American sniper expects.

There will be two subspecies of the rifle encountered– ones with round or hex shaped receivers. The hex shaped ones are older. In the mid-1930’s, the Russians altered the original hex shape to a round one to make them easier to produce. Hex ones will usually cost most, partially because there are fewer of them and also because a lot of us think that the older guns might have been made better. Pre-WWII guns are usually better finished than guns made during the war.

The 91/30 rifles with round receivers usually range from about $130 to $185 in a local gun shop, depending on condition. You can get them online and have them delivered to a local dealer (or yourself if you have a Federal Firearms License). A hex receiver rifle will probably command another $50 or so. The M44 carbines are now more than $200. There was an earlier carbine, the M38 that some like better, but they are hard to find now. The M44 has an integral bayonet while the M38 doesn’t, so it is lighter. Reproduction snipers, when available, go for $400 and up.

The 91/30 rifles come in at a bit under nine pounds. The carbine without the bayonet is 7.5 pounds while the version with the bayonet is about nine pounds. I haven’t had a chance to weigh one that has had the bayonet removed, but I’m assuming the weight would go down to under eight pounds. Collectors frown on removing the bayonet as you have to deal with a heavily staked in screw so it usually shows that someone has been mucking about with it. I’ll leave that moral decision up to the owner. We’re history buffs here, so we would probably leave it on, but if I wanted it off, I would be sure it isn’t some rare collectible before drilling out that screw.

You will usually find a date of production stamped on the receiver, but it might have been buffed or ground off when a rifle was refinished. Rifles made during WWII are usually not finished as well as pre-war rifles and sometimes show a lot of machining marks. Some look downright crude and ugly.

They were made in a number of countries, including the United States, which produced them in WWI for the Imperial Russian Army. Some of these Mosin-Nagants were even issued to U.S. troops participating in the interventions in Russia after the Bolshevik revolution. Some of the rifles made outside of Russia are considered to be very high quality, particularly the Finnish versions. The Germans captured a lot of them in WWII and happily turned them on their former owners. Carbines continued to be made after WWII with production stopping around 1949.

The cartridge itself is still in use in front line arms, such as machine guns and sniper rifles. At 123-years-old, it is the oldest military round in use today. The “R” in the name stands for rimmed, which is truly unusual in military ammunition. The U.S. gave up rimmed military rounds in 1903. The only other rimmed military round to rival the life of the Russian round was the British .303, which lasted into the 1950’s in general use, though some sniper rifles in .303 kept showing up for many years afterwards.

This round is not to be confused with the more modern and less powerful 7.62x39mm used in the SKS and AK-47. It is a full power service cartridge, comparable to the .308 Winchester in power. Both rounds get about 2,800 feet per second with 150 grain bullets. It is accurate enough to be used effectively for sniping. It can be an excellent hunting round for medium and large game in North America. I might want something bigger for grizzly or brown bears (a 40mm sounds good if the bear is in a bad mood), but plenty have been taken with the .308 with good bullet placement. One key to good hunting performance is bullet selection; hunting ammunition needs soft point bullets. Most of the ammunition you will find, however, is going to be surplus full metal jacket (FMJ), which is not good stuff to humanely take game with. Soft points are out there, but you may have to work to find it. I had no luck locally, but I found some online . It can run from about $0.50 to about a dollar or so a round.

Don’t neglect to get some surplus military FMJ, though. Shooting is fun and practice is necessary; you can get the surplus stuff for as little at $0.20 a round, which beats current reloading costs. It might be good to act now, as current international politics could impede the flow of cheap ammo to the U.S. One warning to heed, though, is that virtually all surplus ammo is corrosive and will rot your rifle quickly, if you don’t clean it immediately after shooting. Make sure your cleaning poison is rated for neutralizing and removing corrosive fouling. Some aren’t. One thing that will work is boiling water, especially if you add detergent. What makes corrosive ammo corrosive are the salts used in the primer, and these dissolve in hot water. You still need something to finish getting out the copper, powder, and carbon, but the hot water gets a lot of dirt out. It also seems to loosen some of the other fouling. Some people swear by Windex, but I haven’t tried that yet. After you are done, you need to put a good preservative in the barrel to protect it.

Speaking of reloading, I have found it very difficult to get bullets for 7.62mmx54R. Most manuals recommend a .310 to .312 diameter bullet, which means the .308 diameter ones for American .30 caliber rounds won’t deliver much accuracy. This is the same diameter as usually found in .303 British and 7.7mm Japanese ammunition. These rounds aren’t all that popular these days for reloaders, and since the manufacturers have had so much trouble keeping up with demand for more popular rounds, they haven’t been making much for these cartridges. Truthfully, as long as surplus ammunition is available at such good prices, I see little reason to load practice ammunition, which I suspect is a common attitude that gives few incentives to ramp up production. On the other hand, I would like to be able to load some hunting ammunition and tune it to my rifle. Until bullets start showing up, that won’t happen.

If you reload, be careful as you work up a load, particularly with the larger diameter bullets. These are old rifles, and there is no need to make magnums out of them. A reasonable load will be much more powerful than a .30-30– a round that has put a lot of deer in the freezer.

We bought our Mosin-Nagant, a Model 91/30, from a nearby gun shop. I could have found one for less online and had it shipped to a local dealer, but I really wanted to be able to look it over in person. It came with a bayonet, which truly excited my history buff son. He picked out a 1932 with the hex receiver. We also looked at a 1943 with the round receiver, but there were a lot of machining marks on it, and it just looked pretty ugly. The 1932, while not up to a custom sporter in finish, still looks pretty good. The stock has a lot of dings and dents but appeared solid.

I did mention that they are long. I really wanted a carbine, but I couldn’t find one locally. If you can find a good carbine, I think you would be happier with the nine fewer inches of length. It will mean more muzzle blast, though. There are a number of YouTube videos of folks showing off the fireball you can get with some of the surplus ammo fired from carbines. This is thanks to the fact that most surplus ammo is loaded for longer barreled weapons, like machine guns and sniper rifles. If you load your own, you can use a powder that will make it more bearable.

The action operates fairly smoothly, though not, in my view, up to a Mauser or Enfield. It is, however, better than some current commercial rifles. There is a kind of catch, just before the handle arrives at the top of the stroke, that I find annoying. It cocks on opening, like the Mauser 98 and most modern bolt rifles. The bolt handle sticks straight out, if you don’t have a sniper version. We are generally used to turned down bolt handles these days, thanks to the prevalence of scopes, which need the handle bent for clearance. The straight handle presents serious problems, if one wants a conventionally mounted scope. You have to find a bent bolt handle from the sniper variant for this. There are a number of vendors and custom shops that carry these. The bolt body can be changed by the user, thankfully. Another alternative is to mount the scope over the barrel in the Scout rifle position. I expect to have another review on this option.

One interesting discovery I made was that the straight handle is helpful for lefties who can more easily grasp it when reaching over the action to operate the bolt.

I have seen criticisms that one cannot operate the bolt while the rifle is shouldered. We can do that with ours, but it is nowhere near as easy as with a Mauser or Enfield. I suspect that if one has a tight Mosin-Nagant or one with a rough action, it would be difficult. Truthfully, I don’t see very many shooters who keep bolt rifles shouldered when working the action, so it might be a moot point for most.

The safety is probably the worst part of the rifle. You have to pull back the knob on the cocking piece and rotate it to the left to safe the rifle. This is awkward and takes a lot of effort. What’s worse is that it is equally hard to unsafe it for firing. Some shooters leave the bolt in the up position and close it before making a shot. I think that would work fine on a stand, but it bothers me for walking around. I could imagine the bolt getting pushed closed and something hitting the trigger. Others leave the chamber empty and work the bolt to fire, but that’s noisy. I’m looking at some improvements that can be installed and will write about them in another article.

The other worst feature is the rear sight. It is located ahead of the receiver on the barrel and is one of those stepladder arrangements with a small open U notch that can be set all the way out to 2,000 meters. I can’t see that far, so that doesn’t do me much good, and I find the notch is difficult to use quickly at more reasonable ranges. I have been truly spoiled by the excellent aperture sights found on U.S. rifles since the 1917 Enfield. That said, you can get hits with these sights, but you have to work harder.

Scopes can fix a lot of the sight issues. I’ve already mentioned the issue of the straight bolt handles interfering with conventional scope mounting. I’m in the process of investigating some alternatives that keep you from having to deal with that and will report on them. Stay tuned.

The bore on our rifle looked okay. It wasn’t bright, but it has sharp rifling. I cleaned it and not much came out, but after running five rounds through it, I was able to get a tremendous amount of carbon and copper fouling out of it. I am assuming that shooting it somehow loosened things up. There is no way five rounds could have deposited as much copper as I got out. It continues to spew forth carbon and copper fouling after each range trip, so I may have purchased a copper mine instead of a rifle.

One oddity of the Mosin-Nagant is that it was designed to be used with the bayonet fixed. That means the sights are calibrated with the bayonet attached, which affects where the rounds hit. You may have to learn to apply Kentucky windage or make some modifications. Most people find they shoot high, which means raising the front sight. Some folks put a piece of heat shrink tubing on the front and trim it to the right length. On the other hand, some have found the sights close enough to hunt with. Ours shoots about eight inches high at 100 yards, and I plan to try the heat shrink remedy when I get time. The front sight is well protected, and I think this should work just fine.

My son noticed that the stock on our rifle is a bit shorter than those on some of our other long arms. I think a little of that has to do with the fact that people are taller today than they were when Mosin-Nagants were being issued. Most of it, however, is probably due to climate. Russians had to wear thick, heavy clothing much of the year, and the more you wear, the shorter the stock should be. The stock is, however, long enough for me to shoot comfortably, as I’m several inches over six foot.

I was surprised at how comfortable the rifle is to shoot. The weight helps, but I think the long barrel has a lot to do with it. There just isn’t as much blast and flash as I’ve gotten used to from short-barreled modern weapons. It actually weighs less than an M1 Garand but seems about the same to me for recoil.

The trigger pull was, as expected, heavy. It breaks at eight pounds, but it is pretty clean and consistent, which helps a bunch. For me, a gritty trigger with a lot of creep is harder to manage than a heavier one that is clean.

So, how does it shoot? Not bad, actually. I did the groups of record with Priv Partizan 150 grain soft points. I need to insert the usual disclaimers that I’m not a great shot, the trigger is really heavy, and the sights are rotten. After all that, I got four inch groups at 100 yards, which is perfectly adequate for deer or hog hunting. I am sure a better shot, particularly with a scope, can do considerably better than that. I’ve seen a number of modern rifles that couldn’t do much better.

I’m really glad I got this rifle, if only because of its historical significance. I long resisted buying military bolt rifles, because I’m left-handed and they just don’t run as well for lefties, but I now regret not buying them when they were cheap and available. Besides collecting them, they are fun to shoot and can serve as decent hunting rifles. They were made to endure the worst war could throw at them, and I suspect they will hold up better than many of the current commercial rifles. It won’t be the first one I grab in a crisis, but I know I would be happy to have it as a backup or as something I can loan a deserving person. It sure hits harder than an AR-15.

I found a couple of Mosin-Nagant enthusiast pages to be very helpful. The second one has some pretty detailed information of caring for these rifles.

http://mosinnagant.net/

http://russian-mosin-nagant.com/

There are also a couple of useful books. 7.62mmR Mosin Nagant Handbook which is pretty much the user’s manual and The Mosin-Nagant Rifle which is a history text on the rifle and its variants. You can get by without them since much of the information can be found on the Internet, but the books are really nice to have. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Cornbread Salad, by L.H.

This somewhat weird-sounding salad is fabulous. It makes too much for any but a very large family to finish; you may want to reserve it for covered-dish dinners and potlucks. Also, when you take it to your occasion, tuck a couple of copies of the recipe in your pocket or purse, because you WILL be asked for the recipe.

Ingredients:

  • 2 boxes (8.5 oz.) Jiffy brand corn muffin mix (or any cornbread recipe that makes an 9×13 cake-pan full)
  • 2 cans (14.5 oz. ea.) pinto beans, rinsed and drained
  • 2 cans (14.5 oz. ea.) whole kernel corn, drained
  • 1 large green bell pepper, diced
  • 2 large tomatoes, diced (or 1 can 14.5 oz. diced tomatoes, drained)
  • 1 small red onion, diced
  • 2 c. (8 oz.) shredded cheddar cheese
  • 16 oz. favorite ranch dressing

Directions:

  1. Ahead of time prepare and bake cornbread according to directions and cool.
  2. Cut one 3×3” slice out and set aside.
  3. In glass 9×13” casserole/cake dish place half the remaining cornbread, crumbled into medium-ish chunks.
  4. Sprinkle over with 1 can of beans, 1 can of corn, ½ the bell pepper, ½ the tomatoes, ½ the onion, and ½ the cheese. (At this point you may want to give everything a good press-down with your clean hand, to allow it all to fit.)
  5. Drizzle ½ the ranch dressing over all.
  6. Repeat layers.
  7. Crumble reserved piece of cornbread to fine crumbs and sprinkle over top of salad.
  8. Chill at least 1 hour.

Makes 8-12 servings.

o o o

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Two Letters Re: Septic Tanks

Dear Editor, Recently there have been comments regarding septic tanks, how long they should last et cetera. As of today, if you want to spend money to pump them out every few years, more power to you. However, if there is a true TEOTWAWKI situation, you might want to take steps to add decades to the life of your septic tank. Actually, in such a case, you may want an outhouse that is way way away from your home and a septic tank right at your home. Here is why. In many countries, like Mexico for instance, it is common for a septic tank to go decades without being pumped out. The biggest difference I can see is they don’t pump much gray water into their septic tanks and they don’t throw ANY toilet paper into their septic tanks!! It all goes into a trash can (with a lid) and is dumped separately. (It took me some getting used to when I moved to the Texas-Mexico border area. Even on the U.S. side, where things work, every public bathroom, like at a Walmart for instance, has a small trash can right by the toilet.) It seemingly makes all the difference in the world. Since we are assuming by definition (TEOTWAWKI) that in a situation where there may not be anyone coming around with a pump truck for a decade or two or more, you need to know how to extend the life of that septic tank right from day one of the breakdown of society. My thought would be to have a trash can by each toilet, thus taking things easy on your septic system. After all, you don’t want to be the one trying to empty that thing (septic tank) out with a 5-gallon bucket. Better to take care of it. So? Why the outhouse? Well, no one will be picking up trash either, at least at first. So, have an outhouse away from the main house. Once or twice a day you collect the TP from the buckets and wander down to the outhouse. Since most of your waste, other than toilet paper, will be going in the septic system, I suspect your outhouse will last a good long while before you will have to dig a new hole. This will give you a post-apocalyptic best of both worlds– a flush toilet in the house and yet a way to deal with wastes without having to sit in an outhouse when its 100 degrees OR when its 0 degrees. Yet everything works and everything lasts. – WRC

o o o

In a couple septic-related posts there has been the mention of “bucketing out” the septic tank by yourself. I was wondering what would be the best way to get rid of that waist after the pumps trucks don’t run any more? Thanks, – E.M

Hugh Replies: Without a giant vacuum truck, there is only one way to remove the sludge from the tank. The black water is easy, as you can simply tie a rope onto a bucket handle and dip the water out, one bucket at a time. Most septic tanks, for the average home, have a 1500 gallon capacity. The average bucket full that can be easily lifted is about two to three gallons. It’s going to take a while, and you have to have someplace to put it when you pull it out. You may be able to use it as fertilizer in areas that do not contain human food or animals that will become human food. There is much written about this in the pages of SurvivalBlog, and I recommend you read them thoroughly. However, removal of the sludge at the bottom is what the process is all about. When you reach the sludge level, you have to start filling the bucket with the sludge. If it is soft enough, you may be able to simply drag the bucket to get it. Obviously, a square-shaped bucket has an advantage there. Worst case, someone has to crawl down into the tank and shovel it into a bucket for someone else to haul up. If that sounds like a distasteful job, you would be right, but it is done all over the world. A Google search will reveal the process in third world countries, where they live without the infrastructure that we have. It’s a nasty job, and I hope I never have to do it; however, in TEOTWAWKI, it may be the only way to keep the convenience of your septic running.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Some food for thought: The Once & Future Christendom

o o o

Many people are scratching their heads over President Obama’s insistence that we use the United Nations term of ISIL for the Islamic State of evil thugs and murderers. ISIL purportedly stands loosely for the Islamic State In Iraq and the Levant, with the Levant being a neo-colonial term originating with Britain and France several hundred years ago, when they divided up the Middle East, based on profits from exploitation. According to Wikipedia, the term Levant is only occasionally employed to refer to modern events, peoples, states, or parts of states in the same region, namely Cyprus, Israel, Palestine, Jordan, Lebanon, and Syria. This puts Israel in the list of regions and countries that BHO indirectly legitimizes as the goal and the targets of the IS. This is just one more kick under the bus for Israel from our Muslim-Lover-In-Chief. Contacting our congressional reps is worth the effort to revert to ISIS as we watch the REAL Junior Varsity squad in the White House try to tackle this very real threat with ineffective air strikes, threating letters and emails, unfriending them on Facebook, and trying to look really, really mad when the cameras are pointing their way. Yep; that’s a sure-fire strategy for victory, if ever there was one.

Even Newsweek is scratching it’s head in this article. Left-leaning Vox also wonders why the Obama JV team is using ISIL. Finally, Glenn Beck nails exactly what BHO’s use of ISIL means and why it is important. PLEASE EVERYONE-Vote THIS November and the next and the next. – RAZ

o o o

Medieval Weapon Finds Modern Appeal. – G.G.

o o o

Lockdown Begins in Sierra Leone to Battle Ebola. – P.S.

o o o

Stewart Rhodes: #sheepdog vs #sheepdog Speech at the Lamp of Liberty National Press Club. – G.P.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

Dico Tibi Verum, Libertas Optima Rerum Nunquam Servili Sub Nexu Vivito, Fili.

“I tell you the truth, my son, that the best of all things is freedom. Never live under the bondage of slavery.”

– quote on William Wallace Memorial in Robroyston, Glasgow, Scotland





God and Guns: Your Biblical Right to Self-Defense, by J.B.

You have a biblical right to self-defense. In a life and death situation, you should know that God says it’s okay. This can prove extremely difficult for Christian believers that respect life so much that they don’t want to take it, even when it means it’s necessary to preserve it.

The Natural Right to Self Defense

Boiled down to its simplest level, every creature on the planet has the natural right to use whatever means necessary to defend itself. Life feeds on life. Nature is brutal and doesn’t show mercy. Wolves eat their larger prey hind end first while the animal cries out for help. Are we to tell the buck being chased by wolves that it cannot turn on its attackers and gore them? Why then cannot we extend this simple logic to humans? Humans dress it up nicely in morality codes that can and do change. But at its simplest level every organism has a natural right to defend its life by any means necessary.

Libertarians

Libertarians have something good to say on the matter in the non-aggression principle.  “Do not aggress against others”. We should live and let live and not take what is not ours. Nor should we compel others by force, for they have every right to defend themselves. This is similar to the biblical truths laid out by Jesus: “Love your neighbor as yourself”. In other words, “Do unto others as you would have done to you…He that loveth another has fulfilled the law.” This includes His teachings on turning the other cheek and being forgiving.

Continue reading“God and Guns: Your Biblical Right to Self-Defense, by J.B.”



Letter Re: The Real Threats

Hi HJL,

I realize that the writer of this article speaks from an area of professional focus, but we actually have more real threats. Also, I agree with your italicized comment about nuclear war. Europe was not nearly rendered uninhabitable, due to Chernobyl. Even if we thought that a nuclear war was non-survivable, not giving-up or quitting is the essence of being a survivalist. Also, terroristic “dirty bombs” are way overrated, and as the author of the article stated himself, most of the casualties would be from public perception and the mass panic.

The US Dollar

As a collapse theorist myself, I would define the most likely threat at this point being a collapse of the U.S. dollar, as our current global fiat currency system is hitting its expiration date (since 1971, anyway). In regards to the entire span of civilized human history, we are now in uncharted territory, in the area of what we call money.

Continue reading“Letter Re: The Real Threats”