Cheap and Easy Ham for the Communications Novice by TSR

[Editors Note: FCC rules stipulate that Amateur Radio operators may convert and operate transceivers designed for other services on Amateur Radio frequencies, but the reverse is not true. Unless a radio has been type accepted by the FCC for use on other frequencies, those transceivers may not be used for such purposes. They may, however, be used to listen to other frequencies (except for cellular frequencies.)]

Purpose

You’ll find the line item “ham radio” on a variety of prepper, collapse, and bug out bag lists, and for good reason.

However, for the communications novice, this item can be difficult to address in a meaningful way without plunging into electronics and radio theory, forum discussions about the relative merits of different equipment, a confusing learning curve, licensing, jargon, and erratic device documentation.

Nevertheless, procuring and using a basic Ham radio is an important part of being prepared for a crisis. So, a simple, easy-to-follow recipe for gaining a modest, inexpensive Ham radio capability is the goal of this article.

If you’re an experienced Ham, this basic, procedural approach will no doubt fall short of your needs and sophistication. However, if you’re someone with no radio or electronics experience who wants to add some rudimentary Ham capability quickly and cheaply, I hope that these simple steps are as useful to you as they were to me.

What’s Ham?

The Wikipedia page for “Ham radio” is a somewhat overwhelming orientation, but for our purposes it’s just important to know that Ham radio is amateur, bi-directional, public, radio communication that is partly infrastructure-independent. This means that Ham radio will continue to work for person-to-person communications even when the power grid is out, radio and cell towers have crumbled to ruin, and mutant zombie squirrels roam the wasteland.

Ham isn’t completely immune to infrastructure collapse though, as it leverages available repeater towers to boost range and requires some form of power to run the radio, but it’s far more enduring than cellular service and the Internet. It is also far more useful than (uni-directional) broadcast AM and FM radio.

Why Ham?

Ham radio is a useful tool during crisis both as a source of information (since it allows you to listen to the communications of others) and as a means of communicating (since two Ham radios within range can talk to each other like walkie-talkies).

Ham frequencies are a common denominator fallback method of communication for government disaster and aid agencies that might need to communicate across mutually incompatible systems.

Also, some Ham radios allow you to listen to FM radio stations– a potentially important source of local news.

Training and Licensing

What about training, call signs, and all that? Ham radio technically requires training, licensing, and following certain etiquette. You might also have heard that Ham licensure used to require knowing Morse code.

Not to worry. You can skip all that complexity for the purposes of getting started. In fact, you can obtain, configure, and (passively) use a Ham radio without worrying about any of it.

You can and should pursue the simple requirements for licensing, if you’re going to be transmitting on Ham while the rule of law exists. Regulatory agencies and licensed Ham operators legitimately complain and penalize you if you pollute their otherwise peaceful airwaves.

However, those complaints become less important post-collapse and shouldn’t prevent you from obtaining, configuring, and listening in on Ham right now. Once you get the basics in hand, you can become more involved as time and interest permits, using the resources listed at the end of the article.

Equipment

First, go buy some basic equipment. You’ll want one each of the following:

This radio is attractive because of its ruggedness, cost, size, programmability, FM radio, and USB charging. There are plenty of radios that are more capable in a variety of directions, but the UV-3R+ is a sweet spot for the novice.

Other brands will work, so long as they’re dual band 144/430 MHz, and have an SMA female connector. Anything that works with the Baofeng UV-5R will work with the UV-3R+. You can also skip this item completely and use the (shorter range and not as good) antenna that comes with the UV-3R+.

Programming the UV-3R+ isn’t strictly required to get started, but it makes all subsequent use far easier. If you intend to program the UV-3R+, you’ll also need access to a computer running Windows, Mac, or Linux.

The total cost for all three components will be about $50. You may want to buy more than one radio and antenna (though perhaps only one programming cable). You can plan to use the UV-3R+ either alone as a listening post link to the outside world, or you can buy several to use as two-way team communicators. You can also use the UV-3R+ with FRS/GMRS two-way radios as described below.

You also need to consider how you’ll recharge the device. This can be any means that can provide either wall (110 volts AC) or USB (5 volts DC) power, including:

I purchased a Suntactics solar charger, which is great for an iPhone and iPad, too.

Software

Download and install the free CHIRP software.

If you’re using Mac OS X, download and install Python from the link on the CHIRP download page, too.

Download and install the Prolific PL2303 driver for your Windows or Mac.

The versions of these three components that I used (with Mac OS X 10.9.5) are:

  • KK7DS_Python_Runtime_R10
  • CHIRP 0.4.0
  • PL2303 Mac OS X Driver 1.5.1

Frequencies

While you wait for your equipment to arrive from Amazon, go find local frequencies of interest at RadioReference.com. From the main page, choose Databases > Frequency Database. Under Retrieve By Location > Retrieve by US zipcode, enter your zip code and choose Retrieve.

In the results, identify frequencies that interest you, and log them in a list. I used an Excel spreadsheet, an example of which is shown below. Be sure to store at least the Frequency, Tone, and Description from RadioReference.com. Don’t bother with anything labeled as trunked or encrypted; you won’t be able to listen to or use those without other, significantly more expensive equipment. Focus instead on frequencies with either “XXX.X PL” or “CSQ” listed for Tone.

UV-3R

Frequency

Tone

Description

1

154.01

186.2 PL

Lane 14 (County Tactical)

2

154.13

186.2 PL

Metro 13 (Metro Tactical)

3

154.145

186.2 PL

Metro 14 (Metro Tactical)

4

154.175

186.2 PL

Lane 13 (County Tactical)

5

154.19

186.2 PL

Metro 11 (Metro Tactical)

6

154.205

CSQ

Lane 15 (County Tactical)

7

154.265

186.2 PL

Firecom 2 (Metro Tactical)

8

154.295

186.2 PL

Lane 11 (County Tactical)

9

154.355

CSQ

Metro 1 (E/S Dispatch)

Include in your list the following FRS and GMRS frequencies (all are “CSQ”). These are the frequencies that a variety of “two-way radio” walkie-talkies use. By programming your UV-3R+ with these frequencies, you’ll be able to easily interoperate with those FRS and GMRS radios.

FRS/GMRS Chan.

Frequency

1

462.5625

2

462.5875

3

462.6125

4

462.6375

5

462.6625

6

462.6875

7

462.7125

8

467.5625

9

467.5875

10

467.6125

11

467.6375

12

467.6625

13

467.6875

14

467.7125

15

462.55

16

462.575

17

462.6

18

462.625

19

462.65

20

462.675

21

462.7

22

462.725

You’ll probably find it useful to add in National Weather Service frequencies.

Also identify any local FM radio stations that you wish to program, using Radio-Locator.com. A news/talk station would be a useful choice.

Programming

Once you have the CHIRP software, driver, and (if necessary) Python installed, have received your purchases, and have collected a list of local frequencies, you’re ready to program the UV-3R+.

Make sure that the UV-3R+ is charged.

Open the rubberized cover on the side of the UV-3R+ and connect the programming cable. Plug the other end of the cable into your computer.

Press and hold the orange power button on the front of the UV-3R+ to turn it on.

Launch CHIRP, and choose Radio > Download From Radio.

Set the port to the correct USB port, which for me was /dev/cu.usbserial. Set Vendor > Baofeng, and Model > UV-3R. Choose Okay. Wait while the default factory settings of the UV-3R+ are loaded into the software.

Back up the default settings by choosing File > Save As, picking a convenient location and name (for example “factorydefault”), and choosing Save. This lets you revert to the factory configuration later, using CHIRP, if you need to. (You can also reset to factory settings by holding down the UV-3R+ POWER and VOL buttons for five seconds.)

Choose the Memories tab in CHIRP.

Edit the frequency list in CHIRP by double-clicking a location and filling in your previously-collected information (Frequency and Tone).

If the RadioReference Tone is listed as “XXX.X PL”, choose “Tone” for the CHIRP Tone Mode, and enter the numerical value (XXX.X) for the CHIRP Tone.

If the RadioReference Tone is listed as “CSQ”, choose “(None)” for the CHIRP Tone Mode, and leave the CHIRP Tone value as it is.

For example, if the information you gleaned from RadioReference.com looks like this:

UV-3R

Frequency

Tone

Description

1

154.01

186.2 PL

Lane 14 (County Tactical)

Then you’d create this line in CHIRP:

Loc |  Frequency | Tone | Tone  | ToneSql | DTCS | DTCS | Cross Mode | Duplex | Offset | Mode | Power

    |            | Mode |       |         | Code | Pol  |            |        |        |      |

 9  | 154.010000 | Tone | 186.2 | 88.5    | 023  | NN   | Tone->Tone | (None) |0.000000| FM   | High

And if you had this channel information from RadioReference.com:

UV-3R

Frequency

Tone

Description

9

154.355

CSQ

Metro 1 (E/S Dispatch)

Then you’d create this line in CHIRP:

Loc |  Frequency | Tone | Tone  | ToneSql | DTCS | DTCS | Cross Mode | Duplex | Offset | Mode | Power

    |            | Mode |       |         | Code | Pol  |            |        |        |      |

 9  | 154.355000 | none |  88.5 | 88.5    | 023  | NN   | Tone->Tone | (None) |0.000000| FM   | High

Don’t forget to enter the FRS/GMRS frequencies. I started entering these at memory location 71, so that CH 1 = 71, CH 2 = 72, and so on, to make it easier to remember and directly access them later.

Choose the Settings tab in CHIRP, and then choose FM Radio Presets. Enter any desired FM radio stations, clicking the Enabled checkbox and then entering the station frequency (for example “102.9”).

Chose File > Save As, and save your hard work as a second, differently-named backup (for example “mychannels”).

In CHIRP, choose Radio > Upload To Radio, using the same settings as for the earlier download.

If you have more than one UV-3R+, you can do this upload for each unit, thereby quickly cloning your settings to multiple devices. One interesting way to use this cloning capability is to set up specific, non-FRS/GMRS frequencies for the use of your UV-3R+-equipped team.

Using the UV-3R+

Now you’re ready to use your freshly programmed UV-3R+. The accompanying manual isn’t so great, so here are shortcuts for several common tasks:

Note: The dial has to be lifted up to rotate. Pressing the dial down locks it. Don’t force a locked dial!

Scanning presets

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You’ll see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in preset mode.

Press F/A, then MENU.  This enters scanning mode.

Twist the dial to keep going when scanning stops at an undesired signal, or to change scanning direction at any time.

Press any key to stop scanning when you find a desired signal.

Navigating to a particular preset

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You’ll see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in preset mode.

Rotate the dial to choose the preset.

Scanning frequencies

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You WON’T see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in frequency mode.

Press U/V to toggle between UHF and VHF ranges.

Press F/A, then MENU.  This enters scanning mode.

Twist the dial to keep going when scanning stops at an undesired signal, or to change scanning direction at any time.

Press any key to stop scanning when you find a desired signal.

Navigating to a particular frequency

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You WON’T see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in frequency mode.

Rotate the dial to choose the frequency.

Press F/A to toggle between large and small frequency increments.

Press U/V to toggle between UHF and VHF ranges.

Navigating to a particular FM preset

Enter or leave FM mode by pressing and holding L/F.

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You’ll see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in preset mode.

Rotate the dial to choose the FM preset.

Scanning for an FM signal

Enter or leave FM mode by pressing and holding L/F.

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You WON’T see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in frequency mode.

Press F/A, then MENU.  This enters scanning mode.

Scanning stops when it finds a signal.

Navigating to a particular FM frequency

Enter or leave FM mode by pressing and holding L/F.

Rotate the dial to choose the FM frequency.

Testing FRS/GMRS interoperability

Press and hold U/V to toggle between frequency and preset modes. You’ll see a small number (the memory location) in the upper left of the display when you’re in preset mode.

Rotate the dial to choose the preset for FRS/GMRS channel 1 (in my case, preset 71).

Set the FRM/GMRS radio to channel 1, and set the channel 1 interference eliminator code to zero.

Hold the FRS/GMRS radio near the UV-3R+, and press the PTT (talk) button. You should hear a squeal of feedback from the UV-3R+.

Repeat for all 22 FRS/GMRS channels, setting the UV-3R+ preset and FRS/GMRS channel, and using zero for the interference eliminator code for each. For each pairing, listen for a feedback squeal when you transmit.

Storage

After you’ve enjoyed your new Ham radio for a while, you’ll want to store it with your other preps. When doing so, remember that the battery will slowly discharge over time. Plan to recharge the battery and test the unit every three months or so.

Remember to store the user manual and any other helpful documentation (like your list of frequencies) with the radio.

Finally, for your radio to be most useful under the most conditions, consider storing it in an EMP-hardened container, like a metal ammo can or metal trash can with metal lid. Store it with the antenna detached, for an extra measure of protection.

Learning More

This simple, procedural approach to getting started with Ham radio has only barely touched the surface of possible Ham radio complexity and knowledge. When you’re ready to know more, there are a number of additional resources:

Two Letters Re: How To Obtain Protein From Alternative Sources Without A Firearm

Dear HJL,

Here’s a low-cost alternative to metal traps-– build a trapping pit. Trapping pits have been used since the Stone Age to put meat on the table. A deer trail or other evidence of animal activity is located, then a deep pit is dug and lined with stone or wood planks to prevent escape. Spikes or sharp sticks are mounted on the bottom of the pit to kill or injure the prey, and the hole is covered with a tarp or branches to disguise it. My family has stored up a dozen or so 4’ re-bars and a couple of camo tarps to build an animal pit in the woods adjoining our property, should the SHTF.

o o o

Hi,

I had a comment on Rockvault’s excellent article on “How To Obtain Protein From Alternative Sources Without A Firearm”. In addition to the protein sources he listed, you should also consider insects, which are high in protein, easy to catch, and one of the most abundant food sources in the world. Field & Stream had a good article a while back on the subject. If you’re into developing a more sustainable lifestyle as a foundation for prepping, eating insects is a good start– over 1000 different insects are eaten regularly in over 80 countries around the world (primarily in Asia). The biggest caveat is that anyone with a shellfish allergy should avoid eating them. – John

Odds ‘n Sods:

Video: Manny Edwards fights off dark without a flashlight. – H.L.

o o o

Lead ammunition ban passed after feds withheld key data, hunters group says . – P.M.

o o o

Feds turn to antiquated law to open locked iPhones. – RBS

o o o

How to Pull an All-Nighter: Tips from the Special Forces. – G.P.

o o o

SurvivalBlog reader MTH suggested a 550 paracord alternative that I have been experimenting with myself. The Hennessy Hammock, which was recently purchased by my son, has a strand of Spectra cord that is 1/3 the diameter of 550 paracord, yet it has a strength of nearly three times that of 550 paracord. It has amazing properties for close to the same price. One word of warning though: Knots may be more difficult to deal with.

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“If one reads enough books one has a fighting chance. Or better, one’s chances of survival increase with each book one reads.” ? Sherman Alexie

Notes for Wednesday – December 03, 2014

Today, we present another entry for Round 55 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208,
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store, and
  9. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value).

Round 55 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Constructing a Multi-Use Hoop House on a Budget, by O.M.

Many people are hard pressed to pay full price for a prefabricated building. These often cost several thousand dollars. A small chicken coop can cost several hundred, just to provide very minimal housing for a few birds. A good green house is also quite expensive. Instead of shelling out a bunch of money or, worse, going into debt, my solution is to do it yourself! This set of instructions requires no particular wood working, plumbing, or construction experience. A little common sense, simple tools, and materials allows for all of these structures on a shoe string budget. It is even possible, for those who are good at scrounging, to find most of the materials for free. Some materials are best new, but the plastic sheeting in question isn’t that expensive.

Materials:

  • Four, paired boards of desired dimensions (You want at least 2x4s; though you can work with thinner boards, it will be less durable. You want the board height to be enough for fasteners and attaching mesh. Railroad ties are heavy and resist rotting, which is great for any application not requiring mobility.)
  • PVC pipe (Get at least three lengths of flexible pipe that is long enough to form a “U” shape with the board dimensions. These need to be somewhat more than twice your height, as they will be bent in half. Larger diameter pipes may need a heat gun or careful use of a hot fire to bend. You may possibly need a half “U” for roof center-line to add strength Possible half U for roof center-line to add strength. I’ve actually made semi-successful hoop houses without the PVC supports; however, though they held up for a few months, wind or snow caused partial collapse, and supports had to be rigged to save the structure. It is much better to design the PVC supports into the structure to start with.)
  • Zip ties
  • Plastic sheeting, tin, or semitransparent plastic roof panels (Plastic roof panels will last longer, but you need a heat gun to bend these without shattering them. Plastic sheeting may disintegrate after a year or so, requiring clean up and repair at that time. Consider this when choosing materials. Some sheeting is rated for sun exposure, and some is quickly degraded. Also, when purchasing this material, get a thicker grade for durability; the thin stuff usually doesn’t last a year.)
  • Fencing wire (This is optional but recommended for strength or if using for animals.)
  • Two fasteners per pipe (You need two per pipe, except the center-line only needs one. Or you can use flexible metal to bend into fasteners for pipe. If manufacturing your own fasteners, you need a drill or another method of creating holes for screws.)
  • Eight to twelve large screws (Use screws large enough to bind the pieces of wood.)
  • Two to four smaller screws per pipe (These are for binding fasteners to the board on each side.)
  • Pack of eagle claw fasteners (These are staples that you hammer.)
  • Basic tools (These include a hammer, wire cutters, screwdriver, and a pipe cutter or hacksaw.)
  • Time and help (About 2-10 hours and, preferably, a work buddy.)
  • Additional, recommended item: Rebar with bent top or a plant stake. This is used as an anchor to keep the structure from being torn away by high winds. This is especially important if the boards used are light weight. It is a very disappointing sight to see your newly wrought creation tumbling down the hill into the neighbor’s pond, leaving whatever it was to protect completely vulnerable. It’s even worse to have to scramble to cover those things up with something make shift until a better solution is had. Anchoring the structure is highly recommended.

    Sources for used/recycled items: Check with anyone who has redone their water pipes and search the side of the road, construction sites, junk yards, craigslist, freecycle, and more. When I did my projects, I got all my PVC and mesh free. I bought the plastic, even though I found some free, because it was sun rotten. Plastic sheeting usually lasts a few years, if new; just plan on replacing this eventually. When sheeting disintegrates, it is very hard to clean up, as the plastic becomes tiny, fragile pieces. Panels can last decades, but they cost significantly more and are more difficult to shape. Buy a few more than you think you need because you may damage some. Alternatively, if you don’t need sun penetration for your application, tin is flexible, durable, and not terribly expensive. Someone who has had recent roof repair or an old metal building torn down may have some lying around. The purpose of your project, your budget, and the availability of scrounged material will dictate your roofing material.

Step 1:

Screw boards together into the shape of a square or rectangle. Normally, you want to make sure there are two or more screws per attachment– one high and one low. Test for strength before proceeding. This is your foundation, and it must hold up. It can’t pop apart under the pressure of the pipes.

Step 2:

Test the size of the pipe by carefully bending it inside the wood frame, cutting it down if needed. Mark each anchoring place for the pipes. Two people are helpful for this as you are putting tension on the pipes and they could spring free, causing damage to people or items nearby. When sizing the PVC bends, make sure that there is enough room to stand under the inverted “U”. It is not comfortable to do tasks while stooped. For every 2.5 feet of length, it is recommended that you have a hoop for strength, especially if there is any snow load expected. (In addition, if snow load is expected, a center semi-hoop for added strength is advised. If high winds are common in your area, a tall plant-hanging stake or a long, bent rebar to anchor your hoop house is recommended. Hammer this into the ground, weaving it into the mesh and PVC.)

Step 3:

Mark the placement of the PVC. If using pre-sized fasteners, screw them in. If using recycled scrap metal, like tin, cut a strip of about a half inch wide. Bend this over the pipe allowing an inch on each side to fasten to the board. Pre-drill holes slightly smaller than your intended screws in diameter. Alternatively, a light tap on the tin with a hammer and nail should pierce it enough to make screwing easier. Screw one side of each fastener into the board, then double check if need be that the opposite marks are on target before attaching those. Thread the pipe into the fastener opening. If the PVC shows signs of stress, careful use of a heat gun will assist with bending. If you decide to reinforce the roof with a center semi-hoop, install that after all the other hoops and put it inside of them. Readjust as needed for aesthetics and function.

Step 4:

(Optional) Unroll wire. Two-inch fencing wire is great, as is ¼-inch mesh. Chicken wire will help, but it’s not very strong. With the aid of an assistant, run mesh over the hoops. Allow for mesh to reach the bottom of the board on both sides as well as snugly hugging the hoops. Again, if your structure is intended to protect animals, allow for extra overhang at the bottom. Clip the wire to size, leaving squares (not spikes) were possible for ease of attachment. Use eagle claws and a hammer to attach the wire to the wood. Take zip ties and attach the mesh to the hoops at regular intervals. Zip tie PVC hoops to center semi hoop, if this is installed. As mentioned previously, for added strength in high winds, weave a stake into the mesh and PVC, then hammer it into the ground in the center. Note: Depending on your hoop house size and wire roll size, you may need to overlap the mesh sections. If so, be sure to zip tie these every 12 inches or so for structural integrity. You don’t need to use wire for the ends, as they bear no weight, unless you need to protect animals.

Step 5:

The plastic roll is next. Loop this over the top of the mesh and PVC. Poke small holes at regular intervals and zip tie it to the pipe and mesh. Small holes don’t hurt the heat-holding capacity; they permit venting and allow some rain to reach plants. If the purpose is for animals, provide an area that is more drip free. A little caulk can fill in most holes, but leave a few for air exchange. Along the bottom edge, hammer eagle claws at regular intervals to attach wire to the wood frame. On the ends, keep summer venting and access in mind. In the summer, both ends should be open to reduce heat. In all seasons, one side should allow access to the interior. This can be done easily with flaps. Zip tie the top edges of the plastic to your wire/PVC and drape down to bottom. Cut to size, allowing two inches extra on bottom. For a semi-circle hoop house, ******link???***like this one, the side should have the plastic split into sort of pie shapes—two flaps. Both can be movable, or one can be secured. Using scrap PVC or other long things, wrap plastic around and zip tie. Add a bungee to hold the flap open or for a more secure closure. More secure closures are essential for use with animals.

Optional Additions:

  • Bubble plastic. Rolls of this zip tied inside in the winter help raise temperature and insulate the Hoop house.
  • There is also heated pipe tape or seedling heat tape that can be used to heat soil through winter, if you don’t mind electric usage.
  • A grow light can be added to fool plants into more vigorous winter growth and add heat.
  • The small amount of electricity can, in some cases, be supplied by solar panels, if your area is sun lit through the winter.
  • Full, PVC-framed doors can be added for neater ease of access and summer ventilation.
  • A black barrel full of compost or manure will act as a winter heat sink, and decomposition will increase the inside temperature as well.
  • There are more complex compost heating systems that involve running copper pipes formed into a sort of radiator from the compost to the pots or raised beds, which can increase the circulation of the heat tremendously.
  • You can use the PVC frame with some added holes and some smaller, fitted rubber tubing to irrigate, if you have a hose. Most easily, use a hose with holes on the upper part of the frame to send water through a frame, and some small holes fitted with tubing and drip holes for pots or beds. Make sure to cap the bottom of the hosed PVC to re-route water for irrigation. This irrigation method will require some extra plumbing tools.

Many Uses:

This system can be used for a storage area (a friend has a decades old hoop shed with hard plastic panels using bigger diameter PVC), as a greenhouse, and for chicken coops.

Chickens. For chickens, add perches, feeders, water system, and lay box. Leave off the plastic on one side. Chickens can take a little cold in stride, as long as they have liquid water. It is kind to provide some heating and insulation in the roost area, but keep in mind that they release much of their droppings while on the roost, and the build up of ammonia in the air is not good for them. They need fresh air and good ventilation. They also require some sun exposure, so one side should be a secure shelter; the other should be an open area that is still protected from predators. Use tighter meshing and strengthen wire attachments to wood, so they won’t easily pull free in the jaws of a determined predator. Hard plastic panels, tin, or other secure materials on the sheltered roosting side are a must. Most preying on penned chickens occurs at night. Predator-proofing the roost area is very important. It is also advisable, when adapting for a hen house, to add some wide mesh to the floor, bury a section of screen or to keep it mobile, and have screen edges that extend six inches beyond the footprint of the house to discourage digging predators. You can make this very light weight so chickens can have fresh greens every few days. This application is called a chicken tractor. The birds will work hard to clear the greens from the ground, eat insects, and fertilize the area with their droppings. When you move them, let the ground rest for a while, as chicken droppings freshly applied to plants may burn them. Composted and aged, they are one excellent natural fertilizer.

Greenhouse. For greenhouse usage, you can add raised beds, potted plants, soil heaters, grow lights, or even set this up for aquaponics. Aquaponics is a topic unto itself, but in brief it is a closed loop system that uses fish waste to feed plants (instead of soil), and the plants clean the water for the fish. These systems range from simple gravity-fed set ups to complex systems with grow lights and water pumps. This can provide meat and veggies in one system!

Storage. The simplest application is storage. It is suggested that you use thicker PVC for this application and hard panels for durability. Hard panels forgo the need for wire altogether, as they provide structure and rain cover. Anchoring these into the ground securely can create a structure that will stand up to decades of use. Serious anchors, using cement, are certainly an option for structures that will last.

These are just the most obvious uses for such a structure. There are many other potential uses for this design. This can be a simple, flexible, and low cost way to meet your small structural building needs. Feel free to adapt this in any way that is needed.

Letter Re: Poor Man’s James Bond

Dear Editor,

In a recent article it was mentioned that the Poor Man’s James Bond issues 1-4 could be downloaded for free. However, I saw no link. When I did a google search I did indeed come up with some websites. However, when I started to download my Anti-Malware and Anti-Virus programs went crazy and set off every alarm possible. So??? Has anyone actually downloaded these books for free?? I would love to have them in PDF form and could probably keep a lot of information on a thumb drive. However, I can not spend days fixing the computer and rooting out crud. If you have a reliable, SAFE link to download this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks – Walter

Hugh Responds: We didn’t include a link to a download because I was unaware of the existence of a link that did not violate the authors copyright. I only included a link to the book on Amazon. However, the question is answered by a Survival Blog Reader in the following letter:

o o o

HJL,

This posting encouraged people to get the Poor Man’s James Bond Volumes 1 thru 4 as a free download pdf. ALL pdf versions of Kurt Saxon’s writings are illegal. The only authorized distributor of Mr. Saxon’s writings (that I know of) is one seller who has the DVD-ROM set of all of Kurt’s writings, available on eBay.

eBay seller: prciousisthelord

Thanks – C.Z.

Economics and Investing:

India Submits To The Free Market, Fails To Suppress Gold

o o o

Could Falling Oil Prices Spark A Financial Crisis?

o o o

Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Ponzi: Treasury Issues $1T in New Debt in 8 Weeks—To Pay Old Debt

Moody’s Downgrades Japan as Concerns Grow – This is the kind of thing you might see as a headline in a JWR novel, like Liberators. “The news came just after the country’s main stock market, the Nikkei, closed at a seven-year high.”

Total US Debt Rises Over $18 Trillion; Up 70% Under Barack Obama

JWR’s Recommendations of the Week:

Books

Emergency War Surgery (NATO Handbook:- Third United States Revision, 2004) by Dr. Martin Fackler, et al.

Great Livin’ in Grubby Times by Don Paul

Fiction

Lucifer’s Hammer by Larry Niven and Jerry Pournelle

Movies

Farewell to the King

The Road Warrior, aka Mad Max movies (Mad Max 2 “The Road Warrior” is by far the best of the three, although Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome has its merits.) These movies are gruesome in sots, so they are definitely NOT for children!

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Who wants to die? Everything struggles to live. Look at that tree growing up there out of that grating. It gets no sun, and water only when it rains. It’s growing out of sour earth. And it’s strong because its hard struggle to live is making it strong. My children will be strong that way.” ? Betty Smith, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn

Notes for Tuesday – December 02, 2014

Today, we present another entry for Round 56 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 56 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Round 55 Non-Fiction Writing Contest Winners Announced!

First prize goes to SheperdFarmerGeek for “Ebola Unafraid: A Preliminary Ebola Treatment Protocol, Part 1” & “Part 2” as well as “Making Your Own, Part 1” & “Part 2” which was posted on October 27, 28 and November 11, 12. He will receive the following prizes:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 Nato QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),

Second Prize goes to JMD for “Survival to Go, Part 1” & “Part 2”, posted on October 30th and 31st. He will receive the following prizes:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize goes to Kestrel for “Preparing Game Meat For The Table”, posted on November 16th. He will receive the following prizes:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Honorable Mention prizes ($30 Amazon.com gift certificates via e-mail) have been awarded to the writers of these fine articles:

Note to all Prize winners: Let us know your current e-mail address. We will also need the UPS and USPS addresses for each of the top three prize winners.

Round 55 ended on November 30th, but Round 56 has started, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging. Those articles that we received for Round 55, but that did not get published in time will be automatically entered in Round 56.

What Does Your Survival Portfolio Look Like?, by J.H.

Every single skill, tool, ability, or prep for survival that you acquire should be viewed as an asset. With that state of mind, you can look at your chances of survival in various situations, evaluating where your strong and weak spots are. Just as you would diversify your financial portfolio through multiple investments in different areas, you must do the same with your survival portfolio. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket! If you don’t have a survival portfolio, it’s time to build one.

Having an organized approach to survival helps keep your mind from screaming and the fear of the unknown at bay. While fear is a natural and healthy response and an excellent motivator, as humans, we can choose to keep our panic “in the basement”, allowing us to go forward when faced with situations that are severe or traumatic. This idea defines bravery, and bravery as well as skill can be cultivated through planning and training.

Once you are ready to create your plan, make a hard copy. Sit down either by yourself or with any participating members of your survival group and write out a plan, covering as many aspects as you can. The plan that follows is part of my family’s plan, written in stages. This is not the entirety of the plan nor the portfolio, but it includes important aspects for a family disaster plan.

The following is an example of how to begin building a survival portfolio. This list is not all inclusive, and of course things can be added or stripped away from this list to more fully fit your survival needs and plan. However, this will give you a medium through which you can identify your strengths and weaknesses and begin prioritizing your next steps.

The “sets” of survival are broken into three categories, consisting of Mind-set, Skill Set, and Tool Set.

For organizational purposes, this is an easy to understand and follow list that provides answers to the question of basic necessities to survive during and after a disaster, in a wilderness survival situation, urban survival situation, or in the case of societal breakdown. The three categories are listed in order of importance. Mind-set is first, because it is the catalyst for every other part of survivability.

Mind-set

  • Constitution (a strong will and/or reason to survive)
  • Common sense
  • The ability to remain calm and think rationally
  • Ability to take corrective action and delegate tasks
  • Cooperation with the environment, with others, with the situation; adaptability
  • Weighing pros/cons, evaluating risk/reward, and calculating calories, temperature, et cetera
  • Paying attention to oneself, others, surroundings, environment, needs, responsibilities, and so forth
  • Creativity (working with limited resources to achieve a desired outcome)
  • Decisive action

Skill Set

After mind-set comes skill set. After all, what good are the tools if you can’t use them? This isn’t to say you shouldn’t start or continue gathering tools and/or preps; it just means that your energy is better to be focused on being able to effectively use the tools you have to accomplish the goal you are looking to achieve.

The first four skills are the absolute most important. These address the four essential needs in a survival situation and are listed in order of priority.

  • Providing shelter (Whether in an urban environment or wilderness environment, good, warm, and safe shelter is imperative to survival.)
  • Water procurement and purification (You should know of and be able to use at least three methods of disinfecting your water.)
  • Creating fire (You should know three primitive and three modern techniques of creating fire.)
  • Acquiring food (Whether hunting/trapping and gathering or collecting food from a resource in an urban environment, at some point, you will have to know how to feed yourself.)
  • First Aid, CPR and medical knowledge
  • Know knots! (Knowing how to tie the right knot can save your life; not knowing can kill you.)
  • Cutting/chopping/skinning/gutting abilities
  • Cleanliness (Sometimes, it’s not the instant wound that kills you. Sometimes, it’s the bacteria that gets you after days, weeks, or months of being dirty. Keeping clean in a survival situation is a skill, believe it or not; it’s not as easy as you might think.)
  • Self Control (If you have only two candy bars, will you hold off until you absolutely need to eat? Or will your hunger overtake your common sense?)
  • Camouflage (I’m not talking about wearing camouflage clothes! How well can you blend in, in an urban environment under duress? In wilderness? Will you stand out? Can you hide in plain sight? Being an obvious target can get you killed.)
  • Containment (Keeping your family and yourself safe, keeping bad guys away, keeping operational security)
  • Conditioning (How far can you run, hike, walk? How fast? The slowest sheep get eaten by the wolves.)

Tool Set

(This particular tool-set is for a bag. It does not imply that it is a list of all needed tools.)

And finally, the tools…

“GO” BAG CONTENTS LIST:

  • Backpack
  • Plan (printed, in bag, waterproofed)
  • Maps of areas in plan (in zip-lock bag)
  • List of contacts/ emergency contacts/ important, pertinent information, like license plate (in zip-lock bag)
  • Instructions/ care/ frequencies for communication equipment (in zip-lock bag)
  • Instructions for other gear when not obvious (in zip-lock bag)
  • Recent family photos, including the dog (in zip-lock bag)
  • Backpack waterproof/rain cover (high visibility)
  • Safety vest (high visibility)
  • Hi-visibility ribbon (for communication/ ribbon system; this is discussed later in the article)
  • Fifty feet of paracord
  • Cap (hat of some sort with brim)
  • N-100 medical masks (2)
  • Anti-acid (in zip-lock bag with medical masks)
  • Safety glasses (can be sun glass style, but it is important that they are protective quality)
  • Multi-tool
  • Pocketknife (or fixed blade knife)
  • Socks
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries)
  • Walkie talkie (with extra batteries)
  • C.B. radio (with extra batteries)
  • Emergency whistle
  • Reflector tape (for signaling to prep group or to mark land mark for night-time navigation)
  • First aid kit (including chap-stick, eye-drops, inhaler, antibiotics, medical gloves)
  • Dental floss (non-waxed for stitching skin, waxed for sewing clothes, either or both)
  • Sail needle
  • Poncho
  • Map compass with mirror
  • Hygiene kit (including toothbrush, soap, lotion, nail clipper)
  • Work gloves
  • Orange bandanna
  • Black or brown bandanna
  • Pencil, paper (or small notebook), chalk, crayon, marker
  • Key-rings (2)
  • Carabiners (2)
  • Toilet paper and baby wipes
  • Cloth diapers (2) with safety pins (4)
  • Undergarments (thermals or long underwear)
  • Snacks, hard candy, lolipops, chocolate, and utensils (CRKT Eatin’ Tool)
  • Book (small, paperback)
  • Earplugs
  • Silver coins ($5 face value, minimum)
  • Nicotine gum and one pack of cigarettes (for Mom and Pop, to trade)
  • Small roll of gorilla tape
  • Super glue
  • Matches, lighter, and emergency candle in waterproof container
  • Glow-sticks (two, with one being battery-operated)
  • Pocket U.S.K. (Urban Survival Kit in Altoids tin) with Ranger bands
  • Water in canteen or stainless steel water bottle
  • Water purification device
  • Flask of whiskey (for Mom and Pop)
  • Terry cloth towels (3)
  • SOL sports utility blanket or heat sheet
  • Aluminum foil (in zip-lock bag)
  • Small spice bottle of baking soda
  • Watch (digital for kids; analog for adults)
  • Large receiving blanket
  • Breast milk bags (for pure water or waterproof bag)
  • Fifty-five gallon drum liners (2)
  • Light jacket or windbreaker
  • Sneakers or comfortable hiking boots for swift trekking (secured to bottom of pack)
  • Scout kit

    Optional: Pepper spray gun and/or flares/flare-gun

*Note:

I suggest putting as many items as possible into zip-lock bags, but absolutely use zip-lock bags for those items noted with (“in zip-lock bag”) in the contents list. Zip-lock bags have so many uses– as water containers, gloves/mitts, waterproofing, and shoe covers, just to name a few. Additional Ranger bands are nice as well, as they can be used for so many things that it is ridiculous not to carry as many as you can. For example, they can be used as large rubber-bands (obviously), for making a sling shot, as a long burning fire-tinder (even in wet conditions), for holding gear together, making traps, condensing “airy” items, making a waterproof seal, keeping pant-cuffs secure, and the list goes on and on.

Also, yes, all of these items and more can fit in one reasonably-sized bag. Creativity in the item sizes you choose, how you pack, and packing items inside of other items make this possible.

In addition, you may want to carry firearms and extra ammunition. I specifically did not include these items on the list for personal security reasons as well as to make the list applicable to more individuals.

Have A Plan!

You may want to design a disaster plan or a similar plan for your family. This is what our family’s disaster preparedness plan looks like.

DISASTER PREPAREDNESS PLAN

PLAN A-

  1. THE FIRST 1-3 HOURS
    1. Identify what the disaster/threat is and how we must proceed.
      1. If the EVENT indicates that we are secure in our home and we are all together, we then “COVER ALL BASICS” procedure.
        1. Shelter (structurally sound and secure.)
        2. Water (inventory amount available and set up disinfection and purification system.)
        3. Food (inventory food storage and set up meal plan following a 3 meal 1 snack a day schedule.)
        4. Security (secure all entry points, cover/block windows, set “deterrents”, set “watch” schedule and crow points.)
        5. Warmth (if applicable, set secondary heating systems and identify our “huddle” spot.)
        6. Energy (inventory and center all energy resources, i.e. batteries, fuels, lights, and any other resource items.)
        7. Entertainment (gather and facilitate entertainment for kids/babies, delegate to secretary of entertainment, i.e. Son 1 or Daughter 1.)
        8. Communications (identify communication tiers, i.e. phones, walkies, CB’s, emergency signaling, and so forth; begin contact attempts- 1/2Hr-1Hr.)
        9. Waste Disposal (Set up secondary waste disposal system and dump area; set up sanitation system.)
        10. Health (gather and center medical supplies and triage area; set up hygiene schedule with water usage, and identify mental health stability of each family member and coping mechanisms.)
      2. If the EVENT indicates that we must abandon our home, we then follow “TO GO” procedure.
    2. Are WE all TOGETHER? If “Yes”, we follow Primary w/o vehicle procedure under w/o vehicle circumstances. However, if we are with vehicle and have time, we can pack Primary and Secondary survival systems.
      1. Primary- “Go Bags” and Family Medical Bag only

        Grab go bags, family medical bag, pets, and we as family follow location procedure:

        LOCATIONS:

        (This is a list of “Safe points” where we can gather and strategize. If location 1 is compromised, we go to location 2. If location 2 is compromised, we go to location 3.)

        1. “Orthodox Church”
        2. “Quarry”
        3. Ringsville Hospital
      2. b) Secondary- Long Term Survival System
      3. In addition to Primary components, we may bring extra drink and food caches, medical cache, secondary weapons, tools, and shelter options as well as predetermined “comfort items”.
      4. We then follow same location procedure as primary.
    3. Are WE all TOGETHER? If “No”, we follow R&R (rescue and recovery) procedure:
      1. a) Identify who is separated from family and where they are.
        1. School- If one or more children are at school:
          1. Mom heads to the school w/ the Dog for R&R; Pop, Son 2, and Daughter 2 follow location procedure.
          2. Son 1 and Daughter 1 go to school meeting area– woods behind abandoned grocery store– to meet up w/ MOM.

            *Note: Son 1 procedure Plan.

            *Note: Ribbon system in use.

          3. Mom, Son 1, Daughter 1, and the Dog go to location 1, follow location procedure. (Ribbon system in use)
          4. Once we are all together, we proceed w/ strategy plan.
        2. One or more separated anywhere else:
          1. Go to “Target Range” (meet up or message)
          2. Follow location procedure. (Ribbon system in use)
  2. THE FIRST 24 HOURS
    1. Pop and Son 1 prepare immediate survival setup.
      1. Law of 3’s
      2. 11 Primary Items for each and then all other items
    2. Mom establishes emergency communications (use communication tier procedure).
      1. Contact list
      2. Prepare emergency signaling (if applicable)
    3. Daughter 1 or Mom establishes baby care.
      1. Baby care area
      2. Meet baby health/safety needs
      3. Entertainment
    4. Information Priorities.
      1. Identify disaster threat level and vicinity
      2. “News”
      3. Family and friends
      4. Our survival needs (including immediate as well as cache retrieval)
  3. 24-72 HOURS
    1. Identify “Living Situation”
      1. Temporary, Semi-Long-term, or Long-term “Wilderness Living Survival”

        OR

      2. Semi-Long-term or Long-term “Civil Living Survival”
        1. Follow contact/make-way procedure.
          1. Terry and John’s
          2. Paul’s
          3. Mike’s
          4. Sarah’s
          5. Ed- Last resort/ Res. resting point

PLAN B-

The procedure for Plan B goes into effect in the event that our family is unable to maintain “standard of living” in our home in a survival/disaster/WROL situation. (For example: if our home is compromised, if water/food/shelter resources have been damaged or compromised, or if continuous engagement of “enemy forces” is unsustainable during the “Event” we have found ourselves in, or some scenario similar to these takes effect, we engage Plan B.)

I have not included a copy of our Plan B procedure for operational security reasons.

RIBBON PROCEDURE:

Ribbon procedure is to be used for non-verbal communication between family circle members. The ribbon that the family member carries is to signal to another family member that they have been at the designated meeting place and have moved on to another (secondary or third) meeting place. The ribbon is to be tied in a highly visible area that can be easily seen by the other member(s) of the family so that a member looking for the ribbon does not need to spend extra time searching for the ribbon or family member they are looking for.

Each member of our family circle that is applicable to have and use the ribbon system for communication signaling will each have their own color ribbon so signaling will be easily determined.

The color of ribbon for each family member is as follows:

Son 1- Yellow Ribbon

Daughter 1- Pink Ribbon

Mom- Red Ribbon

Pop- Orange Ribbon

All ribbons are of high visibility colors (neon or bright) so as not to be confused with other markers that may be in the area that has been chosen for ribbon “marking”.

Another piece of the portfolio that is important is to take time to practice your plan and skills. Make a schedule for practice drills and include all group or family members. Make it engaging and exciting so all involved want to participate.

PREPAREDNESS DRILL PLAN AND LIST OF DRILL DATES:

DRILLS:

  1. Fire Drill
  2. Zombie Intruder Drill
  3. National Disaster Drill (24Hr/48Hr/72Hr Drills)
  4. Plan B (“Bug Out”) Drill

Fire Drill– The purpose of this drill is as a readiness exercise in the event of a house fire and/or nearby fire. There will be multiple levels to this drill.

  • Level 1 will be a scenario in which all participants are able to escape through a central location, such as front door, back door, et cetera.
  • Level 2 will be a scenario of separated participants. Members can’t get to each other in the house and must use individual emergency exiting strategies for escape (upstairs windows and so forth).
  • Level 3 for the family scenario will consist of one adult family member being mock-injured and the procedure of which the rest of the participants are to follow.
  • Level 4, the final level, will be a scenario with the adult participants trapped outside and the child(ren) trapped inside and should include both escape and contact procedures. Each level should build on the prior level, starting with Level 1. Each drill scenario should be performed with the use of “Go Bags” and then again without the bags. Establish discipline of grabbing “Go Bags” but reinforce that it may not be possible, depending on the situation. A communication system should be established between participants, such as using emergency whistles.

Zombie Intruder Drill– The purpose of this drill is as a readiness exercise in the event of a “Zombie” intruder. Now, obviously this exercise is not solely for “Zombie” intruders. I have chosen this theme based on my family’s interests and what I thought would be the most fun and exciting for the participants in this drill. This is a multiple level drill wherein participants are able to go through the motions of an intruder in the home and what the responsibilities and procedures are for each and all individuals participating in the event.

  • Level 1 will be a scenario in which all participants are able to gather in a central location and work as a tight group to defend the home and establish secure perimeters.
  • Level 2 will be a scenario in which all capable members of the group must work independently of each other to establish primary defenses and separately establish secure perimeters.
  • Level 3 will be a scenario in which there is a mock-injured member of the group and the procedure to follow in that instance. Each level of the drill should be performed “real world” style and “Go Bags” should be included in all levels of practice. This does not mean that the participants should necessarily defend against the intruder threat while wearing the “Go Bag”, but awareness of proximity to the bag should be kept in mind in the event of a needed escape from the house or if shifting to Plan B procedure.

National Disaster Drill– The purpose of this drill is as a readiness exercise in the event of a National Disaster, such as a grid shut down, major earthquake, hurricane, WROL, nuclear event, or similar event). This drill is not limited to an entire National Disaster; however, I chose this as the title because one would act similarly if the event only effected a region, state, or district. This is a multiple level drill with the fourth level leading directly into the Plan B “Bug Out” drill and procedure.

  • Level 1 will be a scenario in which a National Disaster has taken place and the participants of the exercise have enough forewarning to “hunker down”, secure the house, and follow pre-planned procedures. The “event” for this drill has shut down the grid and for 24hrs, the participants practice having no electricity, running water, or emergency services available to them. The participants follow plan procedure in their “first 24 Hours” plan.
  • Level 2 of this drill is the same scenario, but participants maintain plan procedure for 48 hours.
  • Level 3 engages multiple scenarios in which the level one scenario is conducted for 48 hours, followed by an “Intruder event” in which procedures from the Zombie Intruder Drill are followed, leading directly into the “To Go” procedures of the plan that the participants have developed. The participants should follow the protocols and procedures of the “To Go” plan for 24 Hours. The last level of this drill follows levels 1, 2, and 3, with a mock-up of the Plan B procedures. All levels of this drill should be conducted as “real world”.

Plan B (“Bug-Out”) Drill– The purpose of this drill is as a readiness exercise in the event that the participants home location has been fully compromised and the group will not be able to enter back into the home for whatever reason. This drill is mostly a singular level drill and should be enacted as a “without vehicle” practice first but may be enacted “with vehicle”, if desired. For this drill, the participants will follow Level 3 of the National Disaster Drill, followed by a 5-10 mile, two-day hike (depending on the health and level of the participants). If it is a 5 mile, two-day hike, participants should hike 2 ½ miles to their “camp” location, spend 24-36 hours, making a camp and surviving, and then proceed to “break down” camp, “leave no trace”, and hike back to their starting point. The same procedure is followed for the 10 mile hike, but the participants hike 5 miles each way. This drill should be treated as a “real world” exercise. Also, during “camp hours”, scouting procedure should be practiced.

The “drill leader” (the individual hosting the drill) should keep either written or recorded notes for any and all drills to identify weak areas as well as progress and to make notes of anything to be added to a plan, procedure, or drill. Also, the participants should discuss the drill when the drill is over. This will help everybody have a better understanding of the roles each individual participant plays as well as how to work as a whole more effectively. The discussion portion proceeding each drill is as important as the drill itself. Communication is a major key of efficiency in almost all aspects of life. The “drill leader” may want to keep notes for the discussion portion of the drills as well.

Our family’s drill schedule has a drill about twice a month. This schedule suits my family, but other groups may want to schedule differently. Make sure everyone in the group has a hard copy of the drill schedule.

In addition to the portions of the survival portfolio that I have included, you or your group should take into consideration having the following plans and lists in your survival portfolio:

  • Shelter on site plan
  • Self quarantine/decontamination procedures
  • Any group member’s health problems
  • Contingency travel plans
  • Inventory lists of preps
  • List of survival skills/abilities
  • Maps
  • Items to obtain
  • Defense plans
  • Any other information that may be useful for portfolio purposes.

Make sure you are keeping all of your information (lists, plans, maps, drills. et cetera) in an organized, easy to understand, hard copy system. It is also suggested to keep duplicate copies of everything in your portfolio on a flash drive.

Letter Re: How To Obtain Protein From Alternative Sources Without A Firearm

JWR/Hugh,

I loved this article about alternative means for obtaining food. Much of the information was repeat for me, as I do a lot if those things already. I would add as a point for anyone trying to get into trapping that unless you are in a very target rich environment, trapping has a low rate of return. Typically, traps will catch something 1 out of 5 or 1 out of 10 times. Either the animal misses it, or a non-target animal trips the trap. I would recommend having multiple traps (like 6 or 12) and some snare wire around to really take advantage of non-firearm protein gathering. Also, a 110-conibear trap is great for many small game species and can be baited or placed in runs. They’re also cheap and available used from old or retiring trappers. Don’t forget a cheap crayfish trap too. Bait it with fish guts and you’ll have dinner in no time! – JPR