Rapid Prototyping and TEOTWAWKI, by PMN

If there is a breakdown in the normal manufacturing system because of TEOTWAWKI, the usual supply of parts may be unavailable to replace the broken pieces of our machines. However, 3d printing might provide a solution by allowing us to make whatever we need as we need it, but we’d need to exercise caution. There are problems of strength, accuracy, and technical ability involved in this process, and it isn’t “Beam me up Scottie” quite yet.

Some of you guys/girls may have heard of rapid prototyping, which is also called 3d printing. If you haven’t, it is roughly equivalent to 21st century blacksmithing. First, you make a computer model, and then you make a part from the computer model. The materials and processes vary. I will try and give a general non-technical description of the major materials and processes.

I will append a couple of links, to help in your understanding of the processes and physical properties of the printed model.

BACKGROUND

The first article that I read about rapid prototyping was published in the late 1980’s, and it involved what is called photo reactive polymers. The article didn’t mention “3D systems”, and it didn’t mention the term stereo-lithography. However, it did talk about multiple lasers curing the photo reactive polymer material in a vat. That is turning a fluid into a solid.

In about 1995 I learned about the two companies involved– 3d Systems and Stratasys. 3D Systems produced the first commercial stereo lithography machines, and Stratasys did the first commercial fused deposition modelers, or “FDM”.

STEREO-LITHOGRAPHY: A light-protected machine with a vat of photo reactive polymer that uses a laser and actuating equipment to create a model by turning a liquid plastic into a solid plastic part.

Youtube example.

FUSED DEPOSITION MODELING: A heated nozzle in a machine extrudes a plastic filament onto a platen in a molten bead. This process also works with wax for lost wax molding.

Youtube example.

In both processes/machines, the 3d computer model is cut, with the use of software, into thin x-y plane slices. The slices are then printed on a platen, which displaces on the z axis, allowing an additional layer to be deposited and so on until the entire 3d model has been produced. In most machines, the x and y axes movement are done by movement of the platen or the head. The machines are varied as to which part moves which axis, but the process is roughly the same. Sometimes the platten goes down, and sometimes the head goes up.

Several additional technologies need to be mentioned, although this is an abbreviated list.

POWDER SINTERING: May be either a plastic or metal powder in which the powder is fused into a solid product.

Metal products may then also be infused with additional alloys.

POWDER JET ADHESIVE: An adhesive spray creates a solid out of plastic, metal, or ceramic powder.

Metal products may be fused with heat and then also be infused with additional alloys.

LAMINATE OBJECT MANUFACTURING: Paper is used to create a wood-like object adhesive sheet

SPRAY METAL DEPOSITION: A process in which a molten metal is sprayed in to mold solidifying into a part. Today there are a number of major and minor companies in production with a number of these different technologies.

SOFTWARE

All of the parts are created in what are called solid modelers. There are two major modeling software companies–Autodesk and Dassault Systems– with computer software programs in the $3,000-$4,000 range that account for most of the production. Autodesk’s products include Autocad and Inventor, though AutoCAD is much more popular than Inventor. Dassault Systems offers Solidworks. In addition, there are several older or smaller companies with products that are worth mentioning, such as Cadence, Turbocad, ProE, Siemens NX/solidedge, Cadkey, Intellicad, and Rhino. Some of these are available at quite reasonable prices.

Google Sketchup is a new kid on the block and for the basic version it is a free download. Freecad is a free modeler under development. However, my personal software is Autocad, because it is good for both 2d and 3d drawing.

The general file type for 3d printing is the STL file, which comes from 3DSystems, because it was one of the first in the field. Commercial machines usually include slicing software in the machine as a part of the product you buy, which makes the production process much simpler. However, all of the machines must section the 3d model into flat slices for printing. The slicing software produces a tool path for the machine to use in making the model.

REPRAP

For those of us who don’t have the money to invest in a production machine, costing tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, there is an independent group of modeling machines that can be bought or kit-built and are quite reasonably priced. I have built several of these machines and recommend the ones made by “makertoolworks”. I really like the MendelMax 2.0. Yes, this is a clear plug for the company, because they went the extra mile to help me get my kit machine working.

These machines are not for the faint of heart hobbyist, but they are the coolest thing around. You have to use several software programs to actually make a model with a reprap machine function– a program for slicing and then a control program. I have found “Gslicer” and “Pronterface” easiest to use but would suggest you do research in the other software available. So all in all that’s three programs and a fairly complex machine to get from broken part to new part; it is the modeler, the slicer, and the machine control program.

A good resource of information is: http://reprap.org/ Resolution is a magnitude better in the commercial machines than it is in the Reprap machines. Here is a picture of a set of handles I did for a friend’s S38 auto 1911 on my Mendelmax 2-0 and a picture of the product done on a commercial machine. The black model is done in 1.75mm black PLA on a Mendelmax 2.0, and the white model is done in white nylon at Shapeways.

As you can see, the Shapeway’s object is much higher resolution. Information about the reproduction company’s product and shameless plug for the product is online.

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

Engineering properties is beyond the scope of this post, but in general Sintered or Polyjet plastic powder models can be thought of as having a homogeneous or isomorphic structure, where as fused deposition models should be thought of as having a grain somewhat similar to a piece of wood. Metal Sintered models may also be thought of as having a homogeneous or isomorphic structure and are of course much stronger.

With Sintered or Polyjet powdered models, which are going to be produced on commercial machines, it isn’t as necessary to think about the relationship of the shape of the model to the platen or XY plane. With fused deposition models it is absolutely necessary to think about the shape of the model relative to the platen or XY plane. This is because overhang shape is a very important consideration in printing FDM 3d models.

In most commercial machines using laser sintering or Polyjet glue with a powder medium, the material is self-supporting layer by layer, because the non-printed material is deposited along with the hardened material. When the model is finished the extra powder material is vacuumed out of the model and may be reused, after sifting or cleaning. Consideration of hollows and enclosed spaces is important in this respect.

Photo reactive polymer machines use software to create their own overhang support material, which is dissolved or cleaned away after the model is finished. With these machines, care should be taken in the orientation of the models to provide a stable base for the model as it is grown in the medium.

With FDM models, overhangs are a limiting constraint. With these machines a support structure may be created by the slicing tool path software for the first extrusion head, or a second extrusion head may be used to provide a support structure of different material more easily removable for the model. I have found that anything less than 45 degrees of slope is difficult to achieve without support structure, and the support material done of the main extrusion material is difficult to remove. So far I have found it impractical to use the main material for support structure, because it’s hard to remove, and I haven’t wanted to go to the additional complication of a 2nd, more easily removed support material and head. With FDM, it is easiest to use a constant section or orient the shape so that it will get smaller as the model is printed.

FUTURE

I remember in the early 1990’s, when I was first trying to produce ray traced renderings from 3d models and had to use a 386 Intel chip-based machine that would take 48 hours to produce a 2k x 4k pixel image. I can now produce a similar image in 10 or 15 minutes. In the same vain, it can take several hours to produce a 3d print of reasonable size and complexity. I am sure that similar progress will be coming in the future, if we manage to avoid the kind of mistakes we all worry about here. But even with current limits to the technology you can do amazing things with 3d printing right in your own basement.

Other cautions:

  • I use a mechanical air filter machine and a filter face mask when I’m tending my prints, as I have found that the PLA fumes are a little irritating.
  • I have also mounted a fire alarm above the 3d printer, and
  • I never let it run unattended. It will be running at 195 to 220 degrees centigrade and should be considered a fire hazard.
  • The multitude of settings make the configuration of the software difficult. I found the configuration provided by Makers Tool Works very helpful. I will append a couple of links to help in understanding of the physical properties of the printed model.

Information links

Information about the relative strength of different material is available online. Here are a couple of examples:

There is a lot of information on the net, and this is intended to be a brief introduction to the process.

Three Letters Re: Prepper Armor

Hugh,

In response to K.W.’s concern, posted December 18, 2014, about M193 5.56 ball ammunition vs. Level III plates: It should be noted that two things defeat body armor– velocity and mass of the bullet. The NIJ 0101.06 (the most current) standards rate a Level III hard plate to stop a 7.62mm 147 grain steel jacketed bullet at 2780 feet per second. Considering the M193 travels right around 3000 fps (close to the NIJ standards) and the mass is significantly less, that should put you on the safe side. Incidentally, it seems some companies understand this concern and make sure some of these cartridges that don’t quite fit into the NIJ standards still won’t defeat their armor. AR500, for one, states on their website: “Third party testing has been performed with calibers up to 5.56 XM193, 7.62x54R, 30.06, 6.5 Creedmoor, and .338 Lapua Magnum. Results with higher calibers may vary as they are typically over the threshold of Level III rated armor.” Hope that helps – E.W.

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Hugh,

There is a difference between police armor and military armor, and it has nothing to do with the NIJ rating.

What the Major is talking about are things like IBA and IOTV vests. Yes, these weigh a ton. My army issue IOTV with everything on it is for a full apocalypse situation and actual combat. My issue MP vest, however, is a different matter. It is a police SWAT-style vest that has IIIA armor and can accept plates. Without the plates, it is very light. I can wear it all day without discomfort and fit in any civilian vehicle. It does not have batwings or a groin protector; those are for combat. Still, it protects my torso quite nicely and allows freedom of movement.

I highly recommend a Level IIIA external vest for just about everyone, and I have worn body armor for years. Say “no” to military issue IBA and IOTV; it is way too heavy. – APC 1LT, MP

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HJL,

I just returned home from a deployment in Afghanistan. My demographics are the high side of 50 years old. My squadron had to wear our IBA to/from work every day for 71 days, and I walked to my duty station– a mere half mile from my quarters. While the protection against “what-if” was reassuring, I am now home and looking at physical therapy for l. ankle and r. knee tendon injuries that have not healed of their own accord in five months. If you are wearing body armor, typical gov’t Interceptor or the new IOTV vests, they weigh 35 pounds, and the helmet makes it 37.5 lbs; with a rifle and ammo, whether it’s on your head or clipped to your vest, your joints are still carrying the load. Then there is the 10 plus pounds of rifle and ammo I carried. I’m no couch potato; I run/ran 15-20 miles per week prior to deployment. Deployed locations don’t have sidewalks; it’s crushed stone and broken crap that serve as your walkways, generally. Once the ankle went, I transitioned from nimble on my feet to a liability to my own well being. Clearing my work area after an alarm went off was a joke. I couldn’t sneak around, and I couldn’t run to shelter, as the ankle simply couldn’t do the work. Then the knee went trying to carry the ankle’s load. While I may have been able to take a round to the torso, but any leg wound would have made me immobile and too heavy for a fellow Airman to drag to safety quickly with their own armor burden. So, while the armor is nice to have, it is not any guarantee, and if the SHTF and you lose mobility due to a similar injury, there will be no “post-deployment” therapy sessions to look forward to. It’s something to think about to prioritize. – T.G.

Odds ‘n Sods:

An excellent video tribute to a sad story that happens too often: On the Hometown Battlefield…

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Two NY Police Officers Ambushed – Both Killed from Behind Seated in Patrol Car – T.P.

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Increasingly Armed Mexican Populace Preparing for a Revolution?. – G.P.

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Why TV is EVIL – simulated reality and brainwashing by repetition. – A.D.

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A recent disaster with a mole removal has made my son unwilling to repeat the incident. Needing to deal with a couple of problem moles, we embarked on a journey to find an alternative. This video by Wranglerstar, though humerous, is one of the effective methods we found: My Last Homesteading Video

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Verily, verily, I say unto you, The hour is coming, and now is, when the dead shall hear the voice of the Son of God: and they that hear shall live. For as the Father hath life in himself; so hath he given to the Son to have life in himself; and hath given him authority to execute judgment also, because he is the Son of man. Marvel not at this: for the hour is coming, in the which all that are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come forth; they that have done good, unto the resurrection of life; and they that have done evil, unto the resurrection of damnation. I can of mine own self do nothing: as I hear, I judge: and my judgment is just; because I seek not mine own will, but the will of the Father which hath sent me.” John 5:25-30 (KJV)

Notes for Saturday – December 20, 2014

I just heard that Jerry Pournelle suffered a minor stroke on Monday, December 16th. Please keep him in your prayers. – JWR

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Safecastle has just announced their last sale of the year. This week Mountain House is on sale with discounts of 25-40%.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 56 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208,
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  8. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value).

Round 56 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Surviving with Type 2 Diabetes, by B.H.

There have been numerous discussions in the survivalist and SHTF communities about diabetes, and while Type 1 has been discussed at length, Type 2, which is much more prevalent and equally life-threatening, usually gets little more than a mention and possibly a conclusionary statement that it can be handled/managed with diet and exercise. But what exactly does that mean? There’s no discussion on what such a diet-based treatment would entail in a SHTF situation. It’s not a simple disease to handle. Type 2 diabetes, if untreated or improperly treated, can lead to loss of life and/or limb, just as in the case of Type 1 diabetes. Simple advice, such as cutting out the sugar and doing a few pushups, is not going to solve the problem. Special attention must be paid and special dietary considerations adhered to.

My husband and I are survivalists, but he has a unique problem; he has Type 2 diabetes– a condition that one can manage through proper diet but never goes away. I’ve managed to get him off medications and normalize his condition (meaning his A1C level) by tailoring his meals to be Type-2 safe, or “friendly” (which is the term du jour) to put it politically correctly. Ask me if that makes any difference in our day-to-day existence. The answer would be “No,” and “Thank you for all of your kind wishes.” He needed to lose weight, and I don’t believe that diets work, especially given the number of weight loss diets out there and the increasing growth of obesity despite these diets. Well, you do the math. Instead, I changed the ingredients in all of his favorite foods, including confections, using all-natural ingredients, and we not only normalized his A1C (which has to do with blood sugar levels) but he lost 45 pounds in three months and managed to keep the weight off. It’s been six years and counting. Did that take rocket science?

My husband started experimenting with military MREs and commercially-available dehydrated rations, just to see how they would affect him. It’s always good to be prepared. We do have a division of labor around here; he’s the planner, and I’m the implementer. While salt and sugar are commonly accepted preservatives, the levels in many of these foods sent his blood sugar levels into overdrive. Because his general levels fall just north of the normal range, instead of being able to order what we might consider full meals, he had to pick and choose, wisely, and still it’s pretty much a crap shoot. If we were in a position where we’d have to depend on those MREs and rations exclusively, we’d be in trouble. Blood sugar spikes, especially dramatic and regularly occurring ones, are very stressful and, in the long term, life threatening. Survival means considering all of the variables and food, well, that is pretty basic.

For the record, the three main components that tend to set off, or rather, hasten the onset of Type 2 diabetes are stress, diet, and obesity.

My husband was diagnosed about six years ago and put on medications that had the potential side effect of cancer. These medications were designed to control, rather than cure, the diabetes. Risking cancer for the sake of a band-aid didn’t make much sense to me. I decided to start doing hard research at a systemic level. Since diabetes is incurable and requires being careful for the rest of your life, I knew that my husband would be on meds for at least a year, and if they didn’t prove effective, we’d have to consider stronger meds.

When my husband was diagnosed, I followed my father’s oft-expressed advice. I trusted but verified. Since I didn’t yet know what to safely feed him, he went on the meds and we bought the neutriceuticals developed, for the most part, by pharmaceutical companies. The neutriceuticals were helpful at first but were not a long-term solution, since they: a) were designed primarily for people who were taking the meds, b) contained untrustworthy, unpronounceable ingredients, and c) tasted terrible. My goal was to get him off the meds.

While I’m not a medical practitioner and am not going to even pretend to give you medical advice, I would like to share what my husband and I found from our personal experience. Keeping in mind that doctors study nutrition for a total of three weeks in medical school and nutritionists don’t study chemistry at all, I think that is the reason why Type 2 diabetes has hit such epidemic proportions worldwide to the point where it’s the seventh leading cause of death and growing. Yes, sugar is part of the problem, as are carbohydrates and unhealthy eating habits, which together have a cumulative and devastating effect.

As an aside, I have a lot of doctors in my family. On balance, they can’t cook. They may know medicine, but beyond that they barely know their asparagus from their elbow macaroni. Between that and the fact that their knowledge of nutrition is minimal at best, you can’t exactly count on them for advice on food much less recipes.

As we ventured further into the survivalist mindset, the problem of what to safely feed my husband reared its ugly head again. MREs are laden with sugar and salt. Then again, MREs were primarily designed for young soldiers in the field, who need the carbs and sugar for energy as well as the salt for healthy bodies that were and are put through grueling regimens that would do the average person in, just as their MREs have the potential to do. Food, even an MRE, is not “one size fits all”, and that’s one reason why down the slippery slope we go.

So now I’m working on survivalist versions of Type 2-safe MREs for him. While it is a work in progress, here are some hints and heads up for dealing with Type 2 diets in a survivalist setting. Let’s start about as basic as it gets– trail mix. It’s a good little quick energy booster, and it’s one of the universal favorite snacks for hikers and others, but it’s loaded with dried fruit or fruit that is “enhanced” with sugar (dried cranberries), when the additional sweeteners are unnecessary and do not significantly improve anyone’s health or endurance. Some fruit is just too high in natural sugar for diabetics, yet there they are in almost every trail mix concoction– raisins being one of the prime offenders.

T2-Friendly Basic Trail Mix

  • 1 cup mixed nuts (almonds, walnuts, cashews or peanuts)
  • ½ cup mixed dried fruit (unsweetened apples, cranberries, pears, apricots)
  • ½ cup sunflower seeds, hulled
  • ¼-½ teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
  • 1/8 cup bittersweet dark chocolate chips (optional)

Do not pass go: avoid raisins, sweetened coconut, dried pineapple, and any sugar-coated fruit, and milk chocolate or semi-sweet chocolate chips. Cocoa nibs are acceptable, but they’re not everyone’s cuppa.

Of course, the operative word is “basic”. There are other ingredients you can add to up the nutrition level and to change the flavors/textures, if you’d like, such as dried edamame or dehydrated tofu. We do know that there are those of you out there who avoid any foods that are soy-based. To each his own. Toss in a few dried peas instead.

The sugar and carb levels we’ve observed in many of the survival rations currently available are a red flag; their affects are cumulative, which is why the disease tends to hit around age 40 or so. Why fuel the flames, and why not err on the side of caution, as a general rule? Sugar is not a necessary staple, and do not substitute for it with those artificial zero-calorie sweeteners, either. They’re actually as bad for Type 2s as is sugar, if not worse. Net-net, they’re higher than sugar, in terms of glycemic load. Natural sugar alcohols are a great alternative, are readily commercially available, and can pretty much be substituted 1:1. Birch bark (xylitol, and yes, I know; it’s an unfortunate and very unnatural-sounding name for such a natural sweetener) is one of my favorites and has no unpleasant aftertaste.

High fructose corn syrup, honey, maple syrup, and agave are all no-nos for Type 2s, so don’t even go there.

Losing weight will help, but merely counting calories and adhering to, say, a 2000-calorie a day diet is not the solution. Not all calories are the same. Broccoli is certainly digested and utilized by the body differently than is, say, cake. So eating a 100-calorie piece of cake is not the same as munching on 100 calories worth of broccoli. I know this sounds simplistic, but the message here is that it’s just as important (probably more so) to look at the carbohydrate and sugar counts on nutrition labels as it is to look at calories. (I personally pay closer attention to “calories from fat” rather than just gross calories per serving.) Carbohydrates convert to sugar, which are not good for a diabetic. This doesn’t mean that you should demonize all carbs; some of them, like old fashioned oats, help to bring down glucose levels.

Another reaction I’ve seen from Type 2 patients, pre-Type2 patients, and their caregivers is to go gluten-free. This is potentially another mistake. In commercial and many other recipes, the wheat flour has been replaced with rice flour or potato starch, which are higher in carbs than unbleached white flour. In fact, I’ve talked to a number of celiacs– people who are allergic to gluten– who told me that Type 2 is becoming a growing problem in the celiac community. If you are gluten intolerant, try this: try baking with unbleached flour rather than all-purpose flour. The latter has a number of additives, which producers are not required to disclose. I found that when I was baking with AP flour, as opposed to unbleached flour, my husband’s glucose levels would spike. This didn’t occur with unbleached flour. There is a difference, so why potentially risk diabetes?

I’m just starting to experiment with survival recipes and foods that won’t drive my husband’s glucose levels off the charts. I know that this is a task not every prepper is up for, but there is more to come, and hopefully this heads up is a start that will make you a little more mindful and circumspect about your survivalist food choices, too. Every ingredient matters, and it all adds up. The disease strikes without warning, a little bit at a time, unnoticed, and then all at once. Survival can be tough enough. The last thing you want to do is to go over that cliff, and survivalists need to be creative, both in the kitchen and out in the field!

Letter: Wells and Pumps

I’m curious as to if any other readers have had difficulty getting good information on hand pumps? I am not technical by any definition of the word, but here is my situation: I just purchased a homestead in the country with well water. The pump runs by electricity. I have spoken with several well drillers in the area, explaining that I want a hand pump for grid down. The stock answer is “get a generator”. I live in southeastern NC. I understand there can be problems with trying to connect a hand pump to an already existing electrically-powered well. I can afford to have a second well drilled that uses a hand pump. One company mentioned a “deep well jet pump” but indicated it is complex and something about the chlorine that needs to be used and water not being able to rise to the surface if the chlorine level is off(?). Another said the static water level must be at 10-12 feet from the surface, that a 2-inch diameter shaft would not work, and a 4-inch shaft is a “waste of money”. I was also told that a hand pump can only work to a 30-40 foot range, while another company (the jet pump company) said I could get drinkable water at 100 feet and pristine water at 200 feet. I am confused and can’t seem to find any drillers within a 75 mile radius who have any sense of preparedness. Is this a common problem and do you offer any suggestions, especially in terms of geographically-specific help? Thanks. – MB

Hugh Replies: There are two basic kinds of hand pumps in use, and the only difference is where the pump is located. In the normal “pitcher” pump that we think of, the pump valves are located in the body of the pitcher itself. The water is drawn out by means of creating a vacuum in the drop pipe inside the well by the action of the pump. The air pressure will then push the water up the pipe where the pump can push it out of the mouth. The maximum theoretical depth that these pumps work is based on the air pressure. At sea level, that is about 14psi, which equates to about 33ft. Due to loses in the system (friction), and usable flow rates, you will generally find that 24ft is about as high as these kinds of pumps will lift water. They are entirely adequate, if your water table is within that range. If you have a good cased well, you can still be using water from the 200ft level. Your well screen should be towards the bottom of the well and as you draw water off the top of the well, it will be replenished with fresh water from the bottom of the well. Even though your shallow well water may not be good for drinking, the deep water usually will be. This type of hand pump has good flow and can easily generate 20gpm from hand pump action. The Simmons 1160/PM500 is a good example of this type. With this type of pump, you will generally have a powered pump for normal operation. When you lose power, you simply pull the powered pump off and replace it with this pump.

The second type of pump actually has the pump and valves at the bottom of the drafting inlet and is usually connected by a metal or fiberglass rod in the center of the pipe to the handle at the top. These types of pumps actually push the water up the pipe, rather than relying on air pressure. Since they can generate much greater pressure, depths of 100 to 200 feet are realistic, though the volume of flow will generally be much less (usually around 1 to 3 gpm). There are a number of different types that can be used. If you have a submersible electric well pump, you can use the Bison pump inline with your submersible. If you already have a submersible pump, you can run a Simple Pump right alongside if you have a 4” casing. This is the arrangement I am currently using.

A word of caution is in order if you are drilling a new well. If you ask most well drillers how deep you need to go to get good water, they will generally give you a number. (In our area, it is 250ft). If you look at their trucks, that is how much drilling stem they have. They get paid by the foot, and if they can get you to drill deep, it’s good for them. If you have water at 12 feet, ask your county extension where good water is. You will find that in almost all areas of the United States, good water is obtainable at much less depth than a driller will tell you. Of course, you must also balance that with the characteristics of the water table in your area. If you are in a river bottom area, your water table is probably pretty stable. If you are out on the plains, it may vary considerably, and you will want to plan accordingly.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Snaring Varmints. – J.M.

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Making 9 Million Jobless “Vanish”: How The Government Manipulates Unemployment Statistics. – P.M.

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Muzzleloader Explodes Like Grenade, Takes Off Shooter’s Fingers . – RBS

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Sixth Circuit: Mental Health Gun Ban Is Unconstitutional. – H.L.

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SurvivalBlog reader P.M. sent in this link for old Singer sewing machine manuals.

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SurvivalBlog reader M.D. requested prayer from our readers as they are dealing with spiritual warfare. Please keep them in mind in your intercessory prayer.

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“And Pharaoh said unto Joseph, I have dreamed a dream, and there is none that can interpret it: and I have heard say of thee, that thou canst understand a dream to interpret it. And Joseph answered Pharaoh, saying, It is not in me: God shall give Pharaoh an answer of peace.” Genesis 41:15-16 (KJV)

Notes for Friday – December 19, 2014

Book Bomb Day is December 30, 2014: Tools for Survival: What You Need to Survive When You’re on Your Own

Now available for pre-ordering at Amazon.com, but I’d prefer that you wait for December 30th to order: Tools for Survival: What You Need to Survive When You’re on Your Own. This book is a guide to the selection, use, and care of tools. It will also be available as an e-book and audiobook. -JWR

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December 19th is the birthday of physicist Albert A. Michelson (born 1852, died May 9, 1931), who was the first American to be awarded a Nobel Prize in science, for measuring the speed of light.

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Ready Made Resources is offering four extra cases of Mountain House with the purchase of their Premier Gold Package of Mountain House Foods, in addition to the standard package. That’s two cases of Rice and Chicken and two cases of Lasagna– a $636 value. That is in addition to the five cases of Yoders meats, one case of Red Feather butter, one case of bega cheese, and 18 yahoo canned cakes. Overall, that is a $5390 for only $3895.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 56 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208,
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  8. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value).

Round 56 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

What Haven’t I Thought Of For Nuclear Survival?, by D.K.

It’s easy to prepare for a specific disaster and then forget about it. Whether it’s an economic collapse, power grid failure, or nuclear attack, gathering supplies just isn’t enough. There are a spiderweb of choices to be made after each event, and this article will focus on options you may not have thought of yet, if a nuclear strike were to happen. Aside from knowing the foundations to nuclear survival, there are other important topics, such as owning protective suits, location decisions, and community goals. As with most survival situations, nuclear survival is a system of Q/A– questions and action. Here are some of the questions to ask yourself:

  • Should I get disposable or non-disposable radiation protection suits?
  • How many suits do I need?
  • Do I stay where I’m at, or do I leave during a disaster?
  • What am I going to do with waste if the plumbing doesn’t work?
  • Who in my community can I truly count on?
  • Why is bugging-out not always the best option?

Before diving into specific scenarios and trying to figure out everything you need, it’s important to know the basics of nuclear survival. There are endless calculations that go into a nuclear explosion, but there are three basic parts to recap:

  • The Blast: This includes size, burn effects, and the area is immediately affected
  • The Shock: This includes EMP, wind/shockwave, and social structure damage
  • The Fallout: The radiation-emitting dust that travel all over the place

***To give you a better idea of how a nuclear bomb would affect your area, you can use Alex Wellerstein’s NUKEMAP.***

Plan

Another foundation to nuclear survival is having a plan but not just any plan– a very specific plan. It’s easy to say, “We’ll just go to the desert or forest and bug out”, but how is that going to be executed? What are the specific steps of action you would have to take to get there?

Survival, in a nuclear conflict, should never be approached with a mind focused on the short term. Knowing what you are going to do after everything you’ve planned for has happened is important. For example, if my family and I make it out to the forest to our super secret bug-out spot and survive for a month or two, then what? What happens when the food runs out, ammo runs out, or fallout is carried to our position via atmospheric travel. Not all of us have a nuclear bunker to run to, but even if we did would we be able to survive the psychological pressures of living underground for so long? These are all things to consider.

The last foundation for nuclear survival is having a backup for everything, just like you would on your computer. If one of your suits gets torn or the road you picked is blocked, having a backup can save you from a lethal situation. Some people even like to have backups for their backups, and that is not such a bad idea!

Suits

Deciding what type of radiation protection suit to get for your nuclear survival kit is one of the most important steps towards preparedness. Should I get disposable or non-disposable suits? The important word there is “suits” (in the plural tense), as every person should have at least two of any kind of suit.

Another point to consider, when buying a suit, is how will I eat, drink, and go to the bathroom during extended periods of time within the suit? Even with a good mask that allows you to eat/drink, how can you do that without exposing the edibles. The real answer depends on the scenario and what you are up against. If it’s just alpha and beta-emitting fallout, then a basic suit will suffice and eating, drinking, and relieving yourself could be done under thick cover. If it is significant gamma radiation, then advanced suits and complete decontamination are the only way to complete very short-duration tasks outside of your fallout shelter in relative safety, and not bring hazardous emitters back into your shelter. [ JWR Adds: NO suit will protect you from gamma radiation. If a suit could protect you, then it would be too heavy to move. Read: Many hundreds or even thousands of pounds. The only reliable protection is a proper fallout shelter with multiple halving thicknesses of soil or concrete.] Some protection is better than no protection in any scenario, and knowing how to use the gear you’ve purchased is vital.

Have I practiced breathing and working in my mask? How long do my filters last? Do I have enough? Taking the time to practice using and fully assessing the items we have can prevent a load of problems created by panic during a disaster.

Stay Put or Bug Out?

Do I stay where I’m at or leave during a disaster? This is one of the biggest choices to be made, and the answer varies widely depending on your current location. Here are a few things to consider when making the choice to hunker down or high-tail it:

City (assuming it hasn’t been hit directly)

This will be the toughest area to make a choice, but at one point or another a decision to leave must be made. As we know, traffic will be at a standstill, panic will set in quickly, looters will take advantage of the chaos, and police will have hard time controlling anything. This is one scenario where staying put may be the best idea in the short term. This will give the city time to quiet down after the initial shock and potentially clear out some roads. Staying for too long could be a very bad choice, because over time gangs will form and looters will move from commercial stores to residential areas. Supplies are the driving force behind survival in a nuclear disaster, and cities are going to run out the fastest. For those living in the city, having a remote location to get to is the best goal. Here are the pros and cons of being in a city during this type of disaster:

City Pros:

  • They will be the first places where order is established, if the government still remains
  • Ethnic, religious, and family groups will band together faster
  • Cities will be targeted first for supplies and recovery, if order can be created again

City Cons:

  • There is not a strong sense of community
  • High population meaning more looters, chaos, and congestion
  • Pre-established gangs can quickly take advantage of the situation

City Final Thoughts:

  • Plan to leave 1-3 weeks after an attack, when streets are clear
  • Have many pre-planned routes out of the city to avoid major roads and highways
  • Community is extremely important here, so band together with neighbors
  • Have a destination goal with supplies pre-planted for your mid- to long-term survival

Suburb

The suburbs are where most of us will be during a nuclear strike, and it’s better than being in the city. Supplies will dwindle slower, but that doesn’t mean it’s a great choice to stay for long. Once a city is ravaged, the suburbs will be the next staging area for crime, wanderers, and the search for supplies. Here are some points to consider about a suburb after a nuclear attack:

Suburb Pros:

  • Less congestion, which means more mobility and time to react
  • There are established communities
  • It won’t be the first priority for looting, until cities are empty

Suburb Cons:

  • Generally located very close to cities
  • Long-term survival is not an option here, due to lack of supplies
  • Infrastructure will not be repaired until the nearby cities are under control

Suburb Final Thoughts:

  • Leave immediately or when supplies get low, but don’t stay for more than 2 months
  • Will you be able to handle neighbors requesting supplies and help?
  • A weapon is essential for survival in an area longer than a couple weeks

Rural Town

This is where everyone wants to be during a disaster, and in the end most people will end up here. Once cities and suburbs have run their course, people will move further away and into rural areas. Even though these small towns are great for short- to mid-term survival, it’s got a share of problems, too. Here are some pros and cons when considering a rural town during a disaster:

Rural Town Pros:

  • Less likely to be targeted, due to there not being a large population or military bases
  • Lots of reaction time and preparation for mid- to long-term survival
  • Community can quickly come together from it’s established social connections

Rural Town Cons:

  • Will be the last place to receive aid from outside sources
  • Will attract gangs or looters who can outnumber or outgun a small town
  • Must be self-sustaining or it will quickly disperse and collapse on itself

Rural Town Final Thoughts:

  • This could be a great place to stay long term, as long as the community is strong
  • Community defense and supplies are crucial to maintaining infrastructure
  • Taking in wanderers and/or turning them away will be an important town decision

Your Community

Lastly, one of the most crucial things to consider when planning for a nuclear strike is what type of community you will be a part of. Will you be a lone ranger? Will you have a small group (3-25 people)? Or will you even be a part of a town’s group (25+ people)? Each has a list of pros and cons that must be weighed, while also recognizing that a person’s community is greatly affected by their location.

Going Solo

Going Solo Pros:

  • Only responsible for yourself
  • Easier to remain hidden
  • Moving locations is quicker and easier
  • Decisions can be made much faster

Going Solo Cons:

  • An easy target, if found by any bad group
  • Doing things with one person is harder than doing it with five
  • It’s proven to be a mental and psychological challenge

Small Group

Small Group Pros:

  • Bonds and trust are held together better than in a large group
  • Defense and concealment from other groups is possible
  • Jobs can be diversified
  • There is a larger skill pallet

Small Group Cons:

  • Can quickly be snuffed out by a larger group
  • Will have a hard time making decisions, if someone isn’t the “final say”
  • If someone gets sick or hurt, it will affect the entire group much more than a larger one

Large Group

Large Group Pros:

  • An even bigger skill pool to work with
  • Can split to cover more area and create a formidable defense
  • Will be the first to establish long-term survival communities

Large Group Cons:

  • Making group decisions is not an easy process, unless everyone’s goals are aligned
  • “Compromise” is a word everyone in a larger group must know well
  • It’s much more susceptible to conflict, which can lead to the collapse of a community

Every person is a part of a community in one way or another and when something like a nuclear attack happens, it will either strengthen the community or erase it completely, due to dispersement. Planning and communicating with your community beforehand about what actions will be taken after a disaster is extremely important. Obviously, this is not possible 100% of the time, because not everyone has a community of like-minded people. In this case, it might be best to go solo during a disaster, in an attempt to join a small/large group by providing value.

This guide is not meant to be an all-inclusive step-by-step handbook to any survival situation, but rather it’s here to spark ideas and put people in the right mindset when thinking of preparedness. Asking a question like “where are we going to put the waste” is important, because it’s not something we would normally think about. Having a long term and specific approach to nuclear preparedness will increase chances of survival and put you 1,000 steps ahead of the average person. Asking the right questions and taking the appropriate actions are essential to nuclear survival. Take the time to sit down and evaluate your plan, while going through every possible scenario to not only give you a physical preparedness advantage but also a mental one.

Letter Re: Prepper Armor

Hugh,

Just a few thoughts on the article about body armor.

“The idea that you’re going to be wearing full-on body armor 24/7 during an SHTF situation is fantasy land.”

That’s me, as accurately as I can remember, on a Facebook prepper group page.

Yes, I’m one of those guys who doesn’t think body armor should be a high priority item. Certainly it shouldn’t be one before you have more basic preps squared away.

Why is that? Well, having spent a decent portion of my life wearing the stuff, I know just how inconvenient it is. So, here are some thoughts on the recent article about “prepper armor.”

(NOTE: In the interests of clarity, I have worn the Interceptor armor with full plates–front, back, and side, as well as the relatively “new” body armor with the cummerbund and full plates. I have not worn many of the police-oriented models and never worn or owned any soft body armor. Your mileage may vary.)

  1. The armor combination the author suggests for someone “in fairly good shape” is pretty bulky. A IIIA vest with plates, the codpiece (groin protector), and batwings (upper arm protection) is a lot of stuff to wear. It makes movement difficult, and it makes carrying anything around difficult, especially if you’re wearing a pack or anything like it. If you’re planning on being foot mobile (or even if you aren’t), you’re not going to be moving fast at all. Take a look at the movies Restrepo and Korengal and see how the troops there equipped themselves. This armor combination is really only appropriate if you’re doing vehicle-based patrols in a high-threat environment, like Fallujah.
  2. Try wearing that stuff and getting into a vehicle. Better yet, get into a vehicle designed to carry troops wearing that stuff without putting any of it on. You’ll notice you have LOTS of room. Now, imagine getting into whatever vehicle you’re using to bug out wearing that stuff. Can you reach all of the controls? Can you see out of the windows? Can you move your head and body effectively to see out of the windows? I’m not confident I could put on my armor from Afghanistan and fit into my truck and drive effectively if I had to react to a dangerous situation–or even change lanes during rush hour.
  3. Most people see body armor as their way of carrying their stuff. There are tons of pouches and other bits you can mount to the PALS panels. RESIST THAT URGE. What happens when you have to squeeze into a spot and you have to drop your armor to do it? You’ve lost your primary means of carrying that stuff. When I rolled in Afghanistan, I used a chest rig hooked to clips I mounted onto the armor with zip ties. If I had to dump the vest, I could unhook the rig quickly and keep my main ammo supply (plus my radio, binos, pistol ammo, flashlight, et cetera). Also remember, you’re carrying that ammo and other stuff on top of a 30-ish pound vest.
  4. So, say you’re not going to wear it all the time. Now you have to have a place to store it, and it’s something to remember to grab and make a place for if you should have to bug out. Were you going to keep it in your daily commuter car all the time? I think that qualifies as a bad idea ™.

Look, I’m not saying body armor is a terrible idea, but keep some perspective when you think about adding it to your preps. You’re not going to be assaulting an ISIS stronghold or running patrols in Afghanistan any time soon after SHTF. At best, you’ll need it to check out a noise during a watch period or to fend off an assault on your homestead. Think about how you’re likely to react and design this prep appropriately.

The idea that you’ll be wearing it 24/7, or even during large portions of the day, really is fantasy land. Keep that in mind. Body armor should probably be one of the last things you pick up, unless your threat assessment dictates otherwise.

And, if that’s truly the case, maybe that money would be better used to relocate you and your family NOW, rather than after SHTF. – K.C. “Frag”, Maj, US Air Force (Ret)

Economics and Investing:

U.S. Declares (Currency) War On Russia

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Swiss Central Bank to Introduce Negative Interest Rates – G.G.

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Price of Gold in Russian Rubles – Just thought I would share this chart… Notice how fast things happen when they really make a move. Wouldn’t suspect it to be any different.

A Full-Blown Economic Crisis Has Erupted In Russia

Minimum Wage, Maximum Unemployment – This is for South Africa, but the economic principle is universal.