Letter Re: Walking to the Retreat

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Gentlemen:

In recent days SurvivalBlog has published two articles that heavily feature the “Shank’s Mare” option– walking to Get Out of Dodge. I consider walking to a bugout location a last resort but one that must be included in the planning process.

To that end, I’ve been looking for a device that could provide assistance in such a trek. In the movie “The Road,” made from the Cormac McCarthy book of the same name, the father eventually comes into possession of what looks like a Strongway Yard Cart (available through Amazon and others) or similar cart, which is a 4 foot long and 31 inch wide super size plywood wheelbarrow with a large diameter spoked wheel on each side mounted amid ship and having an extended tubular handle to the rear, all with a 400 lb capacity.

Yard Carts

Some years back I had an identical cart, and it was extremely useful. But the user must carry some of the weight. He supports it with the extended handle, similar to the operation of a standard wheelbarrow. Over long distances, this can be extremely tiring.

I have been searching for a better solution to carrying supplies during an extended foot trek. What I’ve found available is not the answer. Basically, a home center-type steerable steel garden cart of approximately 48 Inch long X 24 inch wide size. It has four small pneumatic tires, a tubular tongue (pulling handle) and a 750-1,200 lb capacity. It is an “all terrain” garden cart.

Specifications

I have one of those. it is quite useful for around-the-property tasks. However, The cart would be much less useful in an extended walk. I have come up with the following specifications:

  • Four wheel cart larger body to increase capacity – 60-72 inches long X 30-36 inches wide (66″X32″ seems a good size)
  • Minimum 500 lb continuous-use payload capacity
  • Heavy duty aluminum construction where possible rather than steel to reduce weight (ability to allow an owner-added 1/2 inch plywood floor is a plus)
  • Flat olive drab color to reduce visibility (powder coat preferred) and no chromed or shiny parts
  • Hinged / easily removable mesh sides to allow larger-than-bed loads (when hinged down must not interfere with wheels or steering)
  • Fully steerable front axle, controlled by tongue
  • Extended tongue with a large tubular loop handle allowing insertion of a length of tubing to enable two people to more easily pull the cart.
  • Tongue easily modifiable to allow very low speed towing (<6-8 MPH) by lawn tractor, bicycle(s), ATV, etc.
  • Tie down loops around the perimeter to secure load and/or secure rain cover and which are also usable as lifting points and attaching ropes to allow downhill control and / or additional pulling assistance (occasional use of come-along or block-and-tackle for steep uphills may be necessary)
  • Wide non-pneumatic tires to eliminate flats from punctures and better performance in sand and soft soil
  • Minimum 16 inch O.D. / maximum 20 inch O.D. wheels with sealed bearings to improve rough ground maneuverability
  • Ability to carry at least one spare wheel assembly mounted underneath
  • Axle positioning to allow carrying limited amount of longer materials underneath (such as a few pieces of 8 ft lumber)
  • Ability to easily extend axle width to improve stability (quick-change longer axles acceptable solution but means to store unused set of axles required)
  • Standardized bolt / nut sizes to minimize tools and parts needed for repair / maintenance. Secure fasteners (castellated nuts secured with cotter pins) are a plus because they don’t eventually wear out like nylon-insert locking nuts. A means of carrying spare cotter pins (or suitable locking pins as a substitute) must be included, as well as spare nuts.
  • A simple brake mechanism with a manual locking / unlocking feature to control the cart during downhill sections, and to use as a parking brake.

Costs

Garden carts the size of mine (48″ X 24″, 1,000 lb capacity) are widely available in the $120-$160 price range. A “Prepper’s Mobility Cart” would be twice that and perhaps three times. It could also serve as an “everyday homestead cart”.  – N.K.


49 Comments

  1. The most desirable method of transporting goods in a situation as indicated in “The Road” would be one that allows hands to be free for holding a weapon, and also does not excessively tax the body while moving. The various yard carts and other household methods require pushing which puts excess strain on all parts of the body.

    A better method would be to obtain a deer cart such as the one shown at this link. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/hawk-crawler-deer-cart.html#fullDescription It has a 500 pound capacity and more importantly, the handle could be modified to allow it to be towed behind, attaching it at the hip.
    This keeps the hands free and spreads the load out on the body. Goods can be easily lashed to the cart via a cargo net or bungee cords.

    1. Man must not adapt to or accommodate the Machine; the Machine must accommodate and service the Man.

      As a (Luddite) horticulturist and nurseryman, my experience with most of the “garden carts” is I’d rather carry the stuff by hand than use one of them. Even around the homestead.

      They’re as easy to steer as a forklift and are OK for relatively flat, smooth ground but hopeless on anything else (like the loose aggregate gravel nurseries love to slather on their yards and parking lots!)

      You also have to pull the entire dead-weight load from more or less waist level, which is bad for the back.

      And if one gets away from you on an incline, you’re IN FRONT of a loaded juggernaut careening at shin height.

      Theres a pretty well-thought-out game cart called the Pack Wheel (http://www.packwheel.com/). Their options from from $600.00 to $1000.00.

      The Honey Badger comes in 6 configurations: Hunting, Fishing, Hiking, “Prepper”, Kayak and Stroller (https://www.honeybadgerwheel.com/). They’re in the $500.00 to $2,000.00 range.

      They both save Man a lot of the work and take most of the load, like a worthy machine must.

  4. Caveat. The more wheels, the more capacity but more friction to pull. If I’m pulling it, I would probably opt for non pneumatic 20″ bicycle tires or larger on a single axle and a much smaller detachable tire on the tongue side to have a resting balance without dumping the cart. For the brake, the bendix coaster brake on older bicycle rims would be an easy option.

  5. A great idea for a walk out with you supplies. One other option would be the ability to replace the wheels with runners for folks in cold climates.

    Regards From Georgia,
    overhill

  6. Those carts are extremely useful, when they work. I have one (yellow, like in the picture) that used to work. It broke down when the wheel bearing went out. I hadn’t found parts for it. It was made extremely cheaply. It didn’t handle uneven terrain at all. If you get one, get one that’s made better. That doesn’t need to mean additional weight. But it needs to be made of better metal, painted better to not rust. I was pretty disappointed. We bought it to haul honey supers from the hive to the house.

  7. Also, why do all these preppers want everything to be olive drab? Am I the only one that that screams “prepper” to? Why not flat black? It’s way more generic and doesn’t draw attention.

    1. Because there is no black naturally in nature, that black cart hidden off the road at night sticks out as a darker object then its surroundings, a brown or OD blen easier

      1. You think that normal people have Olive drab stuff sitting around randomly? Only army or preppers have olive drab. As a prepper, if I saw an olive drab garden cart in someone’s yard, that would scream to me “prepper”. Just the color would tip me off. I promise you, when you’re bugging out, you do not want to look like you make preparations way ahead of time when people see you. I live out in the sticks, and I can assure you, people will see you at some point, and the more you blend in with the people who did not prepare, the better. I am trying to figure out what magical things you think happen out in the woods. If you are out in the woods where no one is around, why would you care if you blend in with the trees? And in the forests I live in, a cart with 4 wheels wouldn’t begin to work. Apparently the concept of the gray man is escapes a lot of people.

  8. IMHO keeping to roads, sidewalks or other terrain suitable for wheeled vehicle under WROL conditions guarantees being prey within the first mile.

    Waiting for the crisis to leave the city is almost as bad. GOOD now.

  9. Tractor Supply carries a family of carts, with an 800 lb capacity one being the largest. I use mine in the yard, hauling firewood, and other heavy materials. The handle has both a handle, and a trailer connection for your lawn tractor/ATV.

    1. You are much stronger pulling than pushing,pushing with arms and shoulders unless you do it regularly(2-3+ times a week) almost guarantees a debilitating injury

  11. I own several hand pulled carts and wagons for use on our homestead. They are extremely useful. Actually, I consider them indispensable. Their biggest weakness is pneumatic tires. Do yourself a favor and outfit them with similar sized (or larger) flat free tires. Flat free tires are not cheap, but make a huge difference in the usefulness of any cart. I buy mine from Home Depot and Harbor Freight, and have not had any problems with any.

    1. Absolutely. I have a harbor freight cart similar to the one at the article heading but without side rails. It is a workhorse, great for hauling firewood, I love it. Only problem was tires would not hold air. Two were replaced by dealer. Expect to air up every few weeks, which means they are worthless if you intend to actually be prepared. Replace with solid tires. I did, and now the cart is always ready to use.

      1. Did you get the replacement tires @ Harbor Freight or somewhere else? I have decided to check out Menards (where I got mine) to see if they have solid tires that would fit next time I have to go into town. (I HATE to shop!):)

  12. I am doubtful of anyone being able to manage a cart of any configuration on a three day or longer trek across terrain that is greater than flat. I am a very experienced backpacker and I can tell you that unless you are in excellent shape and are used to packing such a cart regularly it will wear you out pronto. Just my opinion on the matter. I wouldn’t consider such an effort unless I was toting toddlers in it.

      1. Yes, yes they did. doable but slow and large. My concern is mobility in woods. I am all about prepositioning my wares. a bug-out of any kind will likely require some degree of stealth and speed. It is likely relying on a cart or even a truck to move gear means you are not ready with preposition gear. Indeed, buggin out is about getting quickly to a refuge that already has what one needs. But, as you indicate, the next time I need to move all my goods from one town to another on a flat ground a cart is certainly worth considering.

    1. I can and have walked to my bug out (camp). It can do it in about six hours under ideal condition, two days traveling at night or thirty minutes by boat.

      If you can’t walk to your bug out in a day or two, then you really need to trade in you bug out for burial insurance!

    2. I don’t think the writer intended for this to be a dessirable choice, only a last resort (or maybe next to last resort). I don’t think it’s irresponsible to plan to do whatever it takes as opposed to simply giving up.

    3. Honestly speaking, when faced with choices of this magnitude, wouldnt it be better to have already mulled them over during peace time?.. It wasnt raining when Noah built the ark.

  14. I have a deer cart in my truck tool box to haul several bags if my truck no longer runs for whatever reason. I also have a lawn “wagon” (shown on the main page) at home – just in case. I also have a tarp that I can wrap the bags in, and tie straps. I wouldn’t have far to go – 6 – 9 miles from work depending on route, but the deer cart would come in handy.

    2. I was using our garden cart to haul water and feed out to my chicken tractors in our pasture. Our pasture is somewhat flat, with a few “hills”. It turned over and dumped out my feed.

  16. I wonder if the single wheeled wheelbarrow would work better IF you had someone in deer dragging harness attached to the front of the bucket. handles attached to the sides for others to assist (if available) would work even better.

    Why the single wheel ? Animal single track trails are not often wide enough for 2-4 wheel carts.

    1. How much are you taking, how far, over what, and who is doing it? A front-wheel barrow consumes a lot of energy, because the pusher must carry part of the load. A single tall wheel cart, with brakes, with load balanced above the axle will carry more, over rougher ground, for an individual. But if your likely route is wide, gentle, and paved, and you have a muscular crew, a four-wheel wagon might be ideal.

  17. We use a 4wheeler to pull our garden cart all the time to transport cases of paintballs from warehouse to pro shop. Dont need to modify anything, just a good tie to the ball hitch and works fine for less then ten mph.

  18. I’ve had the good fortune to have one of the garden carts. They’re excellent at moving anything on level ground, but when a hill is encountered or a tire is low on air, moving anything of weight slows to a crawl. It has its purpose, but hauling anything over rough terrain would not be easy at all.

    Another solution that I’ve used extensively is a two wheeled wagon from Polar – there are numerous models and accessories that are available. The one I have can hold 1,500 pounds and has dump capabilities. I’ve jockeyed multiple loads in various conditions by hand – hooked up to the ATV I’ve pulled loads over a thousand pounds. Pulling anything uphill is cumbersome, but the trailer can be outfitted with a crossbar that would make it an easier pull for two. The wheels are WIDE and can be easily replaced as they’re held in place by side pin retainer clips. I’ve come real close to abusing this thing and it’s just like new (other than cosmetic scrapes) and it’s almost 6 years old.

    I’ve got both a garden wagon and the Polar wagon. Making a decision which one to take over any terrain, would not be hard at all.

  19. In case of very bad stuff, I keep a ‘kayak cart,’ which is actually a collapsible light-weight hand truck with 2 large wheels, in my vehicle.It folds down to about 2 inches X 30 X 18 with telescoping handle. I keep some supplies, including a back pack, in 2 milk-crate containers. If stranded, unfold cart, stack 2 crates bungied to it, load backpack for anticipated conditions and I’m gone. Most common routed I take have a RR or power line road visible from the highway, so those will be my new night-travel paths.

  21. Good day Sir,

    Another possibility not mentioned is the “Polymule” , a product featured several days ago on this blog. It is a “kickstarter” project, and they promise delivery on its early version by March 2018.

    Their promotional video shows a design able to address the needs of a cart, that can be used in a camping,hunting;or emergency needs.

    God bless,

  22. A poor man’s option is use a bicycle. The VC used them to great effect on the Ho Chi Minh trail hauling hundreds of pounds of supplies during the Vietnam war. Strip off the pedal gear and other superfluous stuff on the bike, and throw packs and bags on it. With some ingenuity, you should be able to connect two bikes together to make a cart, with a cross bar between them. One advantage of using a bike is it can be navigated easier over a narrow trail than a four wheel cart.

  25. I’m glad to see so many others coming to recognize the potential usefulness of handcarts, for evacuation as well as everyday tasks. For a long trek please consider the following ideas: Two wheels is a cart, four is a wagon. The weight capacity of carts is usually limited by the strength of the wheel, often 200 lbs. per wheel. Dropping the cart from zero height (such as bouncing over a small tree root) doubles the force on the wheels; accordingly a cart rated for 400 should not be used in wilderness with more than 200 lbs; that’s all you’re going to be willing to pull very far in any case. For two adults two carts hauling 200 lbs each is better than one cart hauling 400 lbs. Most carts on the market have exaggerated specs, nor will they hold up to continuous usage. Solid rubber tires (as opposed to pneumatic) are highly desirable. For a given weight of cart+load, rolling resistance is inversely proportional to the radius of the wheel; hence larger is better, but for commercially available wheels the point of diminishing returns is reached at about 20″ to 26″, where the weight of the wheel starts to be a substantial fraction of the gross weight. These sizes are also at the knee of the curve on cost–bigger than this is both heavy and expensive. Bicycle wheels are not strong enough; bicycles are always in balance, but two-wheel carts can experience large side loads for which bicycle wheels are not designed. The force vector that moves a cart is always parallel to a line between your hands and the axle; when encountering obstacles such as tree roots or rocks in the path, it can require 1.5 to 2 times as much force to PUSH the cart over it as to PULL it over; thus, carts should be designed to be pulled, not pushed. A wheelbarrow is the worst possible option. There should be no part of the cart that will clip your heels as you pull it. The resting stands of the garden carts are convenient for working in the yard, but on a long uphappy trek they are unnecessary dead weight and an impediment for snagging on weeds and deadfall; therefore an evacuation cart should not have them. Similarly with hand brakes, they are unnecessary cost, weight, liable to breakage, will get in your way more often than they are needed, and dictate how you must place your hands on the drawbar; there are other cheaper, lighter, expedient ways to perform the braking and parking functions. A high-end deer cart is a good compromise on design and cost, but not convenient for small items; plan on using them with large duffels, tied on; still, only a small person can get inside the frame and pull with the hips as is most efficient; anytime the arms and shoulders are doing the work you will tire quickly. The comment about pulling with the hips being bad for the back is mistaken; just the opposite. Fat tires roll easily in rough terrain until you encounter clay mud; then they are problematic. Mormon pioneers pulled 60 lb handcarts across the Great Plains very successfully. The modern versions used for re-enactments and youth treks weigh up to 300 lbs, and are durable but require a team (the re-enactments are, among other purposes, a team-building exercise) and are not historically accurate. Lastly, by limiting the axle length to 34″ you can load in your front room and go out your 36″ front door. More info is available through Facebook: A Modern Handcart Company, Panguitch, Utah.

  26. Aluminum is less dense than steel, but the strength-to-weight ratio is very nearly the same for both materials. For a given strength of construction you do not save weight by using aluminum, you just make it harder to weld. (Steel, though, does need to be painted to prevent rust, whereas aluminum would only be painted to change its color.)

  27. Our retreat is 186 miles from our home by road. We watch closely at the terrain while we drive it. Our preferred method is to strap on backpacks and travel by foot. We know where the water sources are, and we know we can reach “close to” our destination on foot without taking roads. Food may be an issue, But we can parallel the road in relative safety, at least until we reach the State line, and into more ” friendlier” country.. The path to safety is pretty remote.

  28. Even though my child has nearly outgrown it, I’ve kept my Chariot (now Thule) CX running stroller. I know this may sound silly but it really is an awesome system.
    – It has a bicycle trailering attachment
    – It has a cross country ski attachment (replaces the medium sized bicycle-style wheels)
    – It has a set of adjustable pulling system for the operator to “harness” themselves with a padded hip belt
    – Aluminum framed with suspension system to adjust to load
    – Extra storage areas (which can also hold many of the accessory attachments)
    The nice part is that the original Chariots were built extremely well and last forever. I’m the 3rd owner of my Chariot CX and it still is like new, with only infrequent tire tube changes (I keep extra tubes, repair kit and mini-hand pump in the storage areas). There are often used Chariots at yard sales and on online. Accessories for the older chariots are still in circulation. You can also get a double child CX which could increase your carrying ability.
    They were originally built by a Canadian company and were of awesome quality and build. I cannot vouch for the Thule versions.
    There have been a few long distance cross country skiers who have used these to carry their supplies on extended treks.

  29. I am the submitter for this item and I’d like to thank all the commenters for their input. Here’s what I’ve learned:

    Flat olive drab is good for concealment, but as Rose points out, does say “prepper;” flat medium brown or charcoal gray may be better choices.

    From Eric Palmer, steel vs aluminum. Steel is easily weldable with reasonably simple equipment, even possible with just a forge, anvil and hammer, aluminum isn’t without quite specialized equipment, but in a complete SHTF situation I doubt whether either technological solution would be available. I’ll rethink design options and see if lighter steel parts can be engineered to provide sufficient strength with lower weight.

    A simple braking mechanism remains a requirement, but the “parking brake” option may be deleted in favor of using a rock or wedge to prevent rolling back downhill. I’m researching a very simple user activated bi-directional one-way-ratchet as an option for that, but so far the KISS principle is saying “no.”

    Four wheels remains a requirement; three are not as stable and fewer requires the human provide not only the motive power but also expend the effort for balancing the load and the carrying device, which may be quite challenging for anything over a minimum payload weight; that also requires two hands which may not always be available. Two wheels needs, but does not necessarily require, some sort of stabilizing device during stops (think bicycle kickstand), which adds complexity, weight and cost; my opinion is that whatever necessary additional weight required is best used by making it a 4-wheel device.

    Dataware mentioned 20-inch non-pneumatic wheels, which I also supported; I still do, but some testing seems to indicate that 16″ may not be quite large enough and 20″ too big, if the wheels are to be contained within the perimeter of the cart. I’m now looking at 17″ and 18″ in medium width; wider tires aid on soft ground, but offer more rolling resistance over smooth surfaces, so something in the middle may be the answer. I’m also looking at double wheels; adding a second wheel to the axle, or preferably, bolting directly to the existing wheel to keep axle length short, would help with soft surfaces, and carrying the second set would provide spares for the originals. The weight issue has me continuing with research.

    Ron and PB both referenced the VC’s very successful use of bicycles for material transport; they did so because that’s what they had, what they were transporting lent itself well to bicycle transport, and unloaded the bicycle was able to move personnel more quickly. It must be remembered that the VC used bicycle transport on smooth surfaces, and it wasn’t a case of one or two practitioners but hundreds at a time; individuals or a family bugging out to a retreat is quite a bit different.

    Four wheels does retain size and bulk, and may not traverse small or narrow spaces as well as fewer, but does allow limited one-hand pulling while the other hand is engaged with things like lights, firearms, etc. One-hand-pulling also allows dropping the tongue to rapidly engage both hands, say, for something like rifle use, where a 2-wheel inline or uni-wheel device would have to be allowed to fall over, then picked up again. 2-wheel amidship on an axle is better, but still requires a fair amount of effort be devoted to balancing. 4 wheels also more easily permits possible use as emergency human transport required by injuries, infirmities, etc.

    Size is an issue; my experience says 48″X24″ is too small, Mr. Palmer points out 36″ doorways are common, so 30″-32″ recommended width remains. Length probably should be 2X width so it becomes 60″-64″.

    I’m deleting the “hinged side” requirement and replacing it with six lightweight posts (each corner and 2 amidship, potentially hinged to allow easy up-down use) and strong fiberglas screen panels. Screen is flexible, can be rolled up, detachable posts can be stored (and also misplaced), and made to whatever length is required, as can the screen panels. The idea for side panels is to merely contain moderately-sized loose items and prevent them from falling off, not add structural integrity. It’s possible the screen panel requirement could be eliminated entirely by increasing the number of tie-down points along each side, but that would preclude the device being used to haul loose bulk products such as mulch, straw, etc.

    500 lbs minimum capacity remains, with probably a 750-1,000 lb practical maximum simply to ensure adequate strength and accommodate the occasional overload. The reason is this is not intended to be a “through the woods and wilderness” device, but a means of transporting more supplies than can be comfortably carried on one’s back. Light off road capability is required but the primary purpose is “move more stuff over smooth and moderately irregular terrain.” Strength with light weight is imperative – every pound in the cart impacts the total payload that can be delivered. It must also be considered that the Rules For Bugging Out stipulate no kitchen sinks or flat screen TVs, just the essentials. I consider Bugging Out on foot a last resort, but better than Dieing in Place, to use the slang military parlance, and to that end, having more supplies is always better, assuming there’s a reasonable way to transport them. Smooth surface transport may not always be possible, but if / when it is it seems reasonable to maintain that as a worthwhile option, what can be rolled doesn’ have to be carried.

  30. I strongly urge everyone to see the possibility of using a Chinese wheelbarrow or some variation thereof. Check this link: http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2011/12/the-chinese-wheelbarrow.html
    They are very versatile–they can be used on narrow footpaths as well as paved roads; they can be pushed by 1 person, pushed and pulled by 2 people or even a draft animal, and some have even had small sails attached to aid movement. They have a large weight capacity and a small footprint.

  31. N.K.,

    I agree with your thoughts on the superiority of carts. But one quibble. You said: “It must be remembered that the VC used bicycle transport on smooth surfaces” I must respectfully disagree. The Ho Chi Minh trail for the longest period was a unimproved trail in very rough terrain. Only late in the conflict did they improve the trail, and then so they could use trucks. Today many bikes and bike tires are optimized for off road capability. But I agree, the carts you mentioned would be the best

  33. Walking over 8 thousand miles when I backpacked twice across America I used a heavily modifies deer cart designed originally for hunting. My walk took three years. While on the journey I was constantly tweeking the cart that carried (most importantly) 5 gal. of water and extra food. With no support crew, I carried all that I needed until I came to a town or it snowed or rained, or a kind stranger offered hospitality.
    There is much I could write, and have written about the journey under the title WhiteCrowWalking. It was a epic walk of a lifetime, a gift from God literally. I grew to love this country in a way I never imagined, through the beauty and the glorious warmth of every race and people I met.
    The cart was my lifeline in Texas, OK, NM, WY.MT,OR. and beyond these the borders of these states.
    Obviously I went through many tires ; even supposedly solid tires that never were solid but hollow. One trick I used was I bought cheap children bike tires and literally screwed the tires into the worn through tires already on the rims, or stitched them over the worn out tires with rope bailing twine.
    The greatest thing this vet relearned was that you have to be constantly creative…the whole outside the box thing. Many times there were no stores.
    I am afraid that my walk twice across America was preparation for what we all fear is at the door.

  34. I live a 12 hour interstate drive from my retreat location. My solution is a mountain bike with panniers and a bike trailer. I’ll load the bike trailer with various backpacks. This will allow me to “portage” over rough territory or to ford streams and rivers. The backpacks can be easily carried one or two at a time. The trailer can be folded up and strapped to a pack. The bike can be carried as well. So, I’ll have the means to cover open country quickly and also the means to efficiently carry my gear over very rough country. I’ll carry tube repair kit, extra tubes and tools for bike repairs. I figure my 12 hour interstate drive could take me 12 days on the mountain bike. More if I have to take circuitous back roads.

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