Dear James,
It is heartening to see enthusiasts for the military M35 series of trucks, but I must take issue with some of the comments made by Tom E. in his recent post.
My Background:
I have been working in the automotive industry for over 35 years as a consulting design and testing engineer for both civilian and military builders. Specifically, I worked for AM General in the 1980s on the M998 HMMWV problems, the M35A3 proposal, and the FMTV proposal (the LMTV version was the replacement for the M35, the contract was won by Stewart and Stevenson) and currently own six different models of the M35, all in various configurations, as a collector.
SPECIFIC ISSUES:
Overall, I am pleased to see the enthusiasm shown by the original poster about the M35. Several points missed were:
The M35 footprint (length time width) is not appreciably larger than a 2006 Ford dual rear wheel, crew cab pickup truck. The M35 is taller, but the space required for driving and turning is smaller. The turning circle is slightly over 20 feet smaller than the same Ford.
Vehicle Size
The published length numbers for the M35A2C (length x width) are:
264.25 in (22 ft 1/4 in) x 96 in (8 ft)
Ford length x width:
261.8 in (21 ft 9 5/8 in) x 95.5 in (8 ft)
NOTE: Neither measurement includes mirrors, so I am comparing “apples to apples.”
Weight
The published numbers for the M35A2C are:
Empty: 14,930 lbs
Gross (cross-country): 19,430 lbs
Gross (highway): 21,930 lbs
For the Ford in this example:
Empty: 7014 lbs
Gross (cross-country): Not Rated
Gross (highway): 13,000 lbs
Turning Circle Radius
The published numbers for the M35A2C is 36 ft.
The Ford turning circle radius is 56.5 ft.
Note that the turning circle of the M35 is about 20 FEET smaller than the same effective overall length F350. This provides inestimable improvement in off road and on road mobility for the M35. The downside is the manner in which the M35 achieves this. By using an extreme wheel turn angle on the front axle, extreme loads are placed on the front knuckle u-joints, leading to a “shaking” or “jerking” or “shuddering” of the steering wheel at very low speeds. This also increases the effort required at the steering wheel to physically turn the steering wheel. This is the reason that power assist, of some sort, is required to drive the M35 effectively when tires are changed to super singles, such as on the M35A3. The Ford numbers are published in the Ford Body Builder’s book for the 2006 model year and the military numbers come from the TM published handbook on the M35 series.
“Rambo” Truck Jump
The truck used in the movie “Rambo: First Blood
“No Electronics”
Not true for all models. The M35A3 has several computers-one for the Caterpillar 3116 engine, one for the Central Tire Inflation System (CTIS), and others, depending on the options fitted to the individual vehicle.
The point is the end user must check out the specifics of the vehicle that they are interested in carefully.
“Can Literally Go Almost Anywhere A Jeep Can”
Not true. The physical size of the M35 (or the comparable Ford) is a factor the end user must consider and plan for in the bug out route chosen. You cannot fit 10 pounds of manure into a 5 pound sack, regardless of enthusiasm.
[JWR Adds: In addition to a vehicle’s width, height, and turning radius, there are lots of other factors to consider, for true off-road capability. These include ground clearance, center of gravity, wheel base length, rocker panel height, suspension throw distance (or “travel”), and approach/departure angles. To varying degrees, traditional configuration Jeeps, Scouts, Broncos, Land Rovers, and Land Cruisers are excellent in most of these attributes. This explains why they are so sought-after by folks looking for vehicles to restore for off-road use. Granted, their cargo capacity is marginal compared to a Deuce, but seeing the trails that an experienced driver can traverse in one of these vehicles at slow speed is simply amazing.
One compromise between a Jeep and an M35 is a Unimog. They offer the best of both worlds–both a true off-road suspension and greater cargo capacity.]
“Makes A Good Battering Ram”
Not true. The frame of the M35 is, when compared to today’s commercial vehicles (like the previously mentioned Ford), a piece of “limp spaghetti”. The end user does not want to “batter” anything as the end result will be “popped” (or technically, sheared) rivets holding the frame and crossmembers together. Do you really want to be sitting in the middle of a firefight with the truck disassembling itself?
“Historical Vehicle Plates”
In many states, such as Michigan, you are legally limited on the number of miles a historical vehicle may be driven in a calendar year, Same with historical vehicle insurance from companies such as Haggerty. License it as a normal privately owned vehicle and you would not run afoul of these laws before TSHTF.
“Two Speed Transfer Case With Ultra Low Gearing”
Not true. The transfer case has a higher ratio than many of today’s light duty 4x4s, such as a Jeep.
Jeep NVG 231 transfer case low range gearing: 2.76:1 reduction (from Chrysler published documentation)
M35A2C T136-27 transfer case low range ratio: 1.96:1 reduction (from the aforementioned TM for the M35)
The military M35s are a very good solution to the issue of mobility and load transport, but not a vehicle to jump into blindly. These trucks are closer to an old steam locomotive than today’s passenger cars. Maintenance is a chore that is easily accomplished (as evidenced by all the good 18-to-20 year old mechanics that were trained on them), driving them is easy (within the limitations of the specific vehicle), and above all, are a lot of fun as a hobby to enjoy today.
Best Regards as Always, – Bob S.
James:
A little info on the deuce and a half electrical systems referred to in the recent blog: One of the most common 12 volt DC accessories that would be used in a 2-1/2 ton surplus truck would be a radio of some sort, possibly a CB radio. Do not use a standard resistance type voltage reducer to go from 24 to 12 volts. The 12 accessory doesn’t have enough of a draw to cause a voltage reduction (24 to 12 uses resistance) and you will instantly fry your 12 volt accessory. Either use an electronic reducer, such as one from Transpo Electronics, or tie in to 12 volts across the batteries. This is the least preferred method, but it will work. And heaters? Can you imagine winter in Northern Idaho in a steel 2-1/2 ton, with no carpet or other insulation on the floor or body, and rolling the window down to control the temp. Unlikely you would be mobile for long. Maybe not even alive. Put a heater in in and hook up a defroster, too. A little visibility might be a wonderful thing. Use a 12 VDC automotive or truck unit. These are much cheaper than the 24 VDC military or industrial accessory. This is just info that might save someone a little grief. – Grayfox