Recently, I have been testing a Therma Max Waffle Base Layer. I have found it to be warm and comfortable for everyday wear during cold weather. It is one of many excellent modern base layer options.
Rodney Dangerfield, The Great Escape, and The Maquis
For a couple of hundred years or more, base-layer-like garments in cotton or wool were popular among people who actually had to work outside during cold weather. Of course, they weren’t called a “base layer.” They were called “long johns” or “long underwear.”
People wealthy enough to stay inside near the fire were less enthused about the garments, leading to an association of “long johns” with the lower classes. As a result, “long johns” became the Rodney Dangerfield of the garment world. They didn’t get no respect.
The type of garments that could be afforded by the lower classes were not necessarily particularly comfortable, especially when secured for conscripts to the armed forces by bureaucratic bean counters from the lowest bidder. This led to military long johns having a particularly vile reputation for many years.
I remember in middle school reading the book The Great Escape by Paul Brickhill. The book chronicles the mass escape of 76 Allied prisoners from the German POW camp Stalag Luft III during World War II. Brickhill described how the prisoners at Stalag Luft III made devices out of long underwear bottoms to surreptitiously dispose of the dirt they were excavating from the tunnels they were digging. If I remember correctly, Brickhill said that they “gleefully” cut up the “hated garments” in order to make the devices.
The book was the basis for the 1963 movie of the same name starring Steve McQueen, James Garner, and Richard Attenborough. The movie has a great segment demonstrating the use of the devices they made from the cut up long johns.
Many years later, I read the book Maquis by George Millar. Millar served with the British Special Operations Executive in France during World War II. He reported that shortly before leaving for his clandestine insertion into French territory, he was issued a set of long johns. He hid them behind a curtain in the ready room rather than take them along.
Waffle Weave Cotton and Scratchy Wool
In a way, I understand this lack of respect. When I was young, it seemed like our long john choices were limited and uninspiring. We could choose between waffle weave cotton and scratchy wool.
The cotton was more comfortable, but it was worse than useless if it got damp. I remember more than once sitting in a goose blind while a driving rainstorm threatened to turn into snow. I was wondering whether I could shoot accurately while shivering so violently that it resembled convulsions.
The wool was warmer, especially when damp, but could leave one with a sensation similar to an entire colony of ants crawling up and down one’s legs. In the interest of both comfort and warmth, I would often wear a pair of cotton long johns under a pair of wool long johns, but that could be pretty bulky and stiff.
Happily, long john options have improved in the decades since my youth. Improved fabrics provide greater comfort and versatility.
A Madison Avenue Make-Over
Long johns have also gotten a make-over in the world of high fashion and marketing. Stylish sports-people could not suffer the indignity of wearing “long johns” or “long underwear” while in engaged in skiing, mountaineering, and other outdoor pursuits. It was much too plebeian. It was not chic. But they needed to stay warm. So long johns received a Madison Avenue make-over, and the “base layer” was born. The “base layer”, is the “layer closest to your skin” that “should act as a constant ‘second skin’ throughout your day”. In other words, a “base layer” is “long johns”. Fortunately, just as a rose by any other name smells as sweet, so long johns by any other name are just as warm.
Polyester and Polyester Blends
Polyester long johns represent a quantum leap forward in comfort over the long johns of my youth. I picked up my first pair of polyester long johns at a thrift store about twenty years ago or so. It was a pair of 100% polyester long johns made by Patagonia in the United States. I was astounded by how comfortable they were compared with the long johns of my youth. When I thought about buying an extra pair, I was also astounded by how expensive it is to purchase long johns directly from Patagonia rather than from a thrift store.
Then a few years ago, my wife bought me a pair of Realtree long johns in a polyester/spandex blend. They are currently my favorite pair of long johns. They are extremely comfortable, provide some insulating value even when damp, and are thin enough to wear under a second pair of long johns in colder conditions without undue bulk. The Realtree long johns were made in Vietnam.
Unfortunately, the model of the Realtree long johns that I own are no longer in stock. I have tried to find additional pairs several times over the past few years without success.
That is why I recently went to a local big box store and bought the Therma Max base layer. It cost $16.00. It is 65% polyester and 35% rayon woven in a waffle pattern. I find that the waffle knit of the Therma Max product makes them warmer ounce for ounce than the Patagonia or Realtree long johns, but the knit is not quite as comfortable as the smoother weave of those other garments, especially the one made by Realtree. The packaging advertises them as “extra warm”, but fortunately they are not too warm for everyday wear. Like the Realtree long johns, the Therma Max base layer is made in Vietnam.
Wool/Polyester
Higher quality wool and wool blends are also a significant improvement over the rough wool long johns of my youth. For example, I have a wonderful pair of long johns by Watson’s that is 60% merino wool and 40% polyester. This is one of my thrift store bargains, and one I would love to duplicate. I was stunned by how much Watson’s long johns cost new, just like I was stunned by the cost of new Patagonia long johns.
These long johns are extremely comfortable, although a little too warm for daily wear. They also don’t have a fly, which makes attending to certain needs in the field more complicated.
This particular model of long johns is also no longer in stock. But there are many other long john options from a host of vendors made with high-quality wools like merino as well as wool/polyester blends.
Norwegian Wool
My warmest pair of long johns is a woolen pair made by Dovre of Norway. Few people make cold weather gear as well as Norwegians. In the very coldest weather, I wear this pair over the Realtree long johns to stay toasty warm.
I could probably pick up another pair easily if I were in Norway, but they are a bit hard to find here in the United States.
If you happen to run across a pair, whether in Norway, the United States, or somewhere else, I highly recommend them.
Silk and Silk Blends
Although it doesn’t sound very macho, silk is reputed to provide an exceptionally comfortable base layer. The major drawbacks are cost and the fact that mainland China seems to have cornered the market in 100% silk long johns. If you are aware of models manufactured elsewhere, I would be interested in hearing about them.
Hanro of Austria offers merino-wool/silk and silk/cashmere blends that look even more useful than the 100% silk models. Unfortunately, they are priced way beyond my comfort range at $150 and $378 a pair respectively. When you consider that I buy most of my clothing at thrift stores for less than $5 a garment, you can understand why Hanro garments are so far out of my league.
The History of the Name
The name, “long johns” may be derived from the first name of boxer John L. Sullivan, who wore a similar looking garment in the ring. Sullivan was an American boxer who was recognized as the first heavyweight champion of gloved boxing, holding the title for ten years from 1882 to 1892.
Another possibility is that the name is derived from the French longues jambes, meaning “long legs”.
Conclusion
I am a big fan of long johns. I wear a pair every day when outside temperatures are below freezing, even when I will be inside most of the day. This leaves me ready to go outside without changing my clothes if some task calls for my attention.
Anyone who needs to work outside during cold weather would benefit from a number of pairs of warm and comfortable long johns in polyester, high-quality wool, or some blend thereof. If you are still depending on waffle weave cotton long johns or scratchy, low-quality wool, you may want to think about replacing those garments with something better.
Disclaimer
I did not receive any financial or other inducement to mention any vendor, product, or service in this article.