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Hello James,
I have much to say about plow trucks, and so do many of your readers I see. I must preface the following with my history. I am born into the Ford bloodline, therefore I cannot successfully discuss alternative pickup truck durability except by that of close acquaintances.
I have been plowing for 22 years. All but the past seven years have been strictly gasoline powered F-150s, F-250s, and Ford Broncos. The only difference between the F-150 and F-250 is the weight rating for cargo.
There has not been a time, or snow condition that I have plowed in where the gasoline power plant was not adequate (in comparison to the diesel). In fact, I still favor the gasoline power plant in a snowplow vehicle. Of the F-150 series, I much prefer the longevity and quality of the 1975- 1979 F-150s/ 250s. The Pre- 1980 Broncos are excellent and offer a huge leg up on maneuverability. The extremely short wheelbase can put you in places you only dream of with a long bed, or crew cab pickup. (Just another consideration.)
Given the great financial strain on many companies during the late 70s and 80s, great expense was spared in redesigning the new Fords and Chevys resulting in a much less quality vehicle. I personally don’t think they have met the “up through 1979” durability until 1999 model year, (new series) Ford Pickup trucks came out.
Interchangeability was a great advantage with the 1972?-1979 series of Ford trucks. LTDs, Torinos, Econoline vans, Country Squire station wagons, Mustangs, Broncos (2 and 4 door sedans, and same vintage Lincoln Continentals, largely used the same power plant and transmission, (or at least the three deviations that I was aware of: The 351M, 351W, and the 400. (Ford had the 6 cylinder and 390 gas engines as well. I just do not know the interchangeability of these.) To my knowledge, the trannys were the same as well. I helped my father swap engines and transmission from an old 1970 LTD to his 1978 plow truck after his pickup truck had 18 years of major commercial property snow plowing time served. We did this in a long day with no hoist or special mechanics tools. Obviously there were items that needed “modification”, I am just not completely aware of what they all were. I think the hardest was the vacuum canister mount and possibly setting the advance.
Gas engines largely produce adequate horsepower at a greatly reduced total vehicle weight especially on the front axle in comparison to diesel variants. Think about the extra 800 to 1,200 lbs you are going to hang out a good 4 feet in front of your axle when you mount your new snowplow, and bam, you have just altered the physics of your vehicle which in turn affects how it will handle in any given circumstance. Add to that equation a good additional 1,500 to 2,500 lbs of a diesel power plant “dead” weight and you are pretty much asking for a tow truck to come pull you out if you don’t know where you are driving.
Another huge advantage to the gasoline power plant is that you don’t have the typical “gelling” troubles that diesel fuel is laden with in cold weather climates, nor do you have the additional noise of a diesel. (Presuming good quality fuel stores and in tolerance moisture levels, etc….) We are talking about snow plowing aren’t we? Gas engines are also snappy, and will rev up to much higher RPMs in forward and reverse when needed which directly adds MPs. Things to look for in a prospective plow truck, (i.e.- with a plow already mounted).
1. As a rule, most consumers do not maintain the 4WD components to their vehicles. This is a minus when considering an already set up unit.
2. Likely worn out front end suspension components
3. Most snow plow operators are under some sort of time constraint which furthers the likelihood of “abuse” to the vehicle when considering a set up unit.
4. If the plow was mounted by a non-professional, then there are likely to be bad connections to the frame, cracked/stressed members, faulty wiring and likely the wrong angle on your mold board, (the plow itself).Disadvantages to buying a vehicle, then a plow separately, (or at least having to line up installing yourself)
5. Need metal working tools, or someone to do the fitting
6. Need electrical skills and quality wiring ability
7. Finding the proper [mounting] brackets can be problematic when buying used
8. Can you find parts for the plow?
9.Was the 4WD [front differential] ever used? If not, this is not necessarily a good thing. Occasional use is good for lathering a fresh coat of oil on turning components.
It is a great advantage to find a vehicle that has not had a plow on it, (Most modern day trucks void the warranty when a plow is installed on them). You are likely to have a solid drive train, (i.e.- rear end, transfer case, differentials, hubs, etc…) when buying used if it has not been used to plow with.
Many people make the mistake of plowing or towing in high range when placing large demands on the truck. This is a no-no with a gasoline powered plow truck. As I said earlier, we plowed for 18 years with not one transfer case or transmission failure ever. You plow in low range, and you are not placing such a load on the gearing. You end up reducing the amount of shifting that the tranny has to do under load. This greatly reduces heat build up and increases life.
Things you will be wise to include in your plow truck, (either set up, or putting together).
1. Good glass, (so you don’t hit something)
2. Very good mirrors
3. Good defroster, (front and rear)
4. 12 VDC fan to blow air across your windows
5. Install a larger 100amp capacity alternator
6. Install an additional battery in parallel
7. Have extra sets of winter wiper blades behind the seat blowing snow freezes them up right now
8. Extra hydraulic hoses
9. Extra fluid
10. Extra lift and turn solenoids
11. Small roll of wire and connectors
12. Extra plow pins, (5/8” pin with cotter)
13. Can of fuel
14. Tools
15. Blankets
16. Standard cold weather Bug Out Bag (B.O.B.)
17. external oil and tranny coolers
18. Jumper cables/Battery pack
19. Reduce your electrical consumption while plowing at low RPMs. You may hit the plow controller and the truck dies from excessive drain on the batteries. (i.e.- shut off your headlights if you can see without them). Don’t shut off your vehicle while re-fueling either.
20. Floor jack or Hi-Lift jack
21. Flashing light, (during times you want to be visible)
22. Prior knowledge of the area you are to plow before it is masked in snow
23. Extra cutting edges
24. Extra marker flags
25. Bottle of air brake antifreeze. I add the antifreeze, Dextron/Mercron tranny fluid, and recommended hydraulic fluid into my pump to aid in extreme cold weather conditions. While others may be frozen up, you will still be in business. About a 1% antifreeze and 1% tranny fluid mix.
26. Insurance.
Be aware of your conditions. I have been stranded in the harshest weather at times in which I never expected to have a problem. Being prepared is simply knowing what you are doing, or figuring it out through viable sources. SurvivalBlog has been excellent for my preparedness. – The Wanderer