Note from JWR:

Today we present the first article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 runs for two months, ending on the last day of July. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

The author of this article is a 13 year old girl. She says “I live on a small preparedness homestead I have had the pleasure to raise chickens, ducks, rabbits, ponies, horse, calves, guinea fowl, dogs, and pheasants I love to read and study all about the animals and how to live more efficiently. My ultimate dream is to live in the mountains off-grid.



Ponies for Survival, by Jen’s Hens

Horses will be quite handy in a survival situation to be pack animals, to ride, to do farm work, and many other things. But horses eat enormous amounts of food and generally are not surefooted.
So how are you going to have pack animals, riding animals, and farm workers? Well, ponies of course! Ponies are smaller than horses no taller then 14.2 hands high so they are easier to handle, they are more surefooted then horses, and eat a lot less than horses. (One hand equals four inches.)
Horses (Especially Draft horses) require high quality feed, but ponies can easily survive on poor quality feed if worst comes to worst, do to the rugged conditions they were developed in. Most ponies are very easy to train, unlike Mustangs who hardly ever lose their wildness. Many people think ponies are too small to do anything, but that is not true at all. Ponies are proportionately stronger than horses, and all the ponies I will suggest you to research to possibly buy are almost the size of a horse.
Most ponies don’t even need to be shod, and that will come in handy in a disaster. In our area it costs approximately $430 to keep one horse shod for one year, on top of very expensive feed bills makes one mighty big sum to invest on a horse.
Here are a few good pony breeds, and benefits for survival and enjoyment.

Avelignese:From Italy
Surefooted
Unflappable temperament
Perfect family riding pony
Up to 14.3 hands high (hh)
Good for novice riders
Used for farm work
Color is chestnut w/flaxen mane and tail

Connemara: From Ireland
Good stamina
Hard feet
Good for riding and driving
Excellent for wet climates
Very intelligent
Up to 14.2 hh
Colors are Gray, bay, and brown

Dales and Fells ponies From England
Can carry huge weights
It was used to carry lead oar out of mines
Good riding and harness ponies
Surefooted
Good in bad weather
Sensible temperament
Dales up to 14.2 hh Fells up to 14 hh
Colors are Black, Dark Brown, and Bay

Garrano From Portugal
Good for riding and driving
Quite temperament
Good for woody and steep areas
Surefooted
Strong
10 to 14 hh
Colors are Bay, Brown, or Chestnut

Haflinger: From Austria
Surefooted
Good farm workers
Good riding ponies
Nice temperament
Up to 14 hh
Color is chestnut w/flaxen mane and tail

Highland: From Scotland
Very hardy and sturdy
Surefooted
Good in bad weather
Will do almost anything
It was used on deer hunts to haul dead deer out of Scottish hills
It also was used to haul peat out of the bogs
Very calm temperament
Up to 14.2 hh
Good riding pony
Colors are dun, gray, bay, and black
Good in swampy conditions

Nigerian From Nigeria
Excellent in hot climates
Quite temperament
Sturdy
Good stamina
Good for riding, driving, and packing
14 to 14.2 hh

Any color Norwegian Fjord: From Norway
Good for mountain areas
Were used as Vikings war ponies
Tireless workers
Excellent Temperament
Good farm workers
Good riding ponies
If worst comes to worst they can survive by eating stuff other horses consider inedible
Surefooted
Very hard feet
Remember what you teach them very well
13 to 14hh
Color is Dun

Welsh Mountain:
Up to 12 hh
Welsh pony class B:
Up to 13.2 hh
Welsh pony class C:
Up to 13.2 hh
Welsh pony class D (or Welsh Cob):
No height limit

All Welsh Ponies:
> From Wales
Hardy and sturdy
Eat very little
Surefooted
Good riding ponies
All colors except Piedball and Skewball

Any of these ponies are excellent choices for survival. Please research which one of those pony breeds will be best for you. I wrote this article so you can choose which pony breeds to research for survival and enjoyment. I hope that if you get a pony you will enjoy raising it as much as I enjoy my Icelandic pony Trigger (I did not include Icelandic ponies in my article because they generally have a bad attitude). My sisters and I also own a 35 year old Welsh Mountain pony whose just a big pet named Sam, a feisty 7 year old American Shetland named Dusty, and a very large and friendly 8 year old Quarter Horse named Sassy.



Letter Re: Hurricane Preparedness, by MFA

Jim,
Well written article especially for a “newbie” to hurricanes in Florida. However, I must take exception to the one item that MFA ignored: a standby generator! Life after a storm in Florida without a generator can best be described in two words: “absolute misery.” Without going into details, a generator will mean the difference between an Absolutely Miserable Time and a manageable Difficult Time.
Personally we have a Honda 6500 [6.5 KW] electric start generator to use during the storm to provide power for lights, television Weather News and to keep the refrigerators and freezers running. After the storm, we change over to the 40 KW diesel generator that will power everything and then some.
Imagine the difference between working outside in 100 degree [Fahrenheit] heat and going into a house that is 110+ degrees inside with no running water.
Now working in the 100 degree heat and going into a house that is 68 degrees and has a nice shower with all the hot water you can use.
Like the old-time carnival barkers used to say, “you pay your money and you enjoy what you pay for”. Regards, – Roc O.



Letter Re: Firefighting Equipment for Rural Homes and Retreats, and Comments of Geothermal Heating

Hi Jim,
I thought it prudent to add a bit to Mr. Savage’s fire fighting equipment article. It touches two topics worth mentioning.
In the article, Mr. Savage recommends a fire truck, bladder, tank, etc… for firefighting. I have no problem with this unless it is winter. Trying to pump this much water on as “as need” basis in the event of a fire is obviously not going to work as well. Storing the water in a “non-potable” type container clearly marked, one could add the appropriate amount of RV antifreeze to the tank to keep from bursting your firefighting vessel, pipes, and valves.
Please don’t confuse this with vehicle antifreeze.
For those considering using the RV for bugging out or a second retreat, then it would be necessary to understand how to winterize and de-winterize your piping if you desire to keep things relatively intact.
This would also be an important segue into learning to winterize your home in case you decide to shut off heat to most rooms, but would like the ability to have pipes that are not broken/ frozen at a later date when outside temps are above freezing.
Since we are on the topic of water, another thing to mention in addition to the corn/ pellet, wood boiler type heat, I would like to add geothermal to what in my opinion is a worthless heat/cool source post-TEOTWAWKI. Most don’t know this, but in our climate, the electrical needs for the system can easily surpass 100 amps! Good luck powering that with your wind turbine. Sorry for the ramble, but wanted to bring up a few talking points. God Bless, – The Wanderer

JWR Replies: The power required to run a home geothermal heating system varies widely, depending on the water temperature and well depth. In some places like Klamath Falls, Oregon, where there is fairly hot water at shallow depth, a “closed loop” system connected to hydronic sub-floor pipes can use just a small circulating pump that draws relatively little current. BTW, Klamath Falls is one of the preferred retreat locales mentioned in my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation. And, BTW, I once had the opportunity to buy a ranch near Wells, Nevada that had a large hot spring with gravity flow to the house. This could have provided geothermal heat with no pumping requirement. However, the Memsahib and I decided to pass on buying that property because we felt that it was too close to the I-80 corridor and hence not strategically viable.





Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Far from being grateful defenders of the system from which they have profited, the children of capitalism tend to turn against it. Thus it is that radicals and even revolutionaries almost always stem from the middle and upper classes rather than the working class or the poor, in whose name they presume to speak. And thus it is that what is called liberalism today is increasingly identified with the more, rather than the less, prosperous sectors of American society. – Norman Podhoretz, editor, Commentary, Harvard Business Review, 1981



Note from JWR:

Notes from JWR: We’ve finished the judging: The First Place winner for Round 10 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest is “Grandpappy” for his article “How to Harvest, Process, and Store Vegetable Seeds”, which was posted on May 11th. Congratulations! He is being awarded a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) The Second Place award goes to Freeholder, for her article “Raising Goats for Self-Sufficiency”, which was posted on May 26th. She will receive a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I am also presenting three autographed copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. These go to:
Mr. Yankee, for his article “Top Ten Suggestions for Stocking Up” (posted April 2nd.)
RSC, for his article “Prepping for Children and Teaching them Preparedness” (posted April 7th.)
Korey, for his article “Basics of Keeping a Small Flock of Goats for Survival Protein” (posted April 10th.)

Note to the contest winners: Please e-mail me and let me know your snail mail addresses for delivery of your prizes. Thanks!

Round 11 of the writing contest begins today! Get busy writing and us your article. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging. Since SurvivalBlog is “text only” for the convenience of readers that use mobile devices, please do not include illustrations with your article. (Although articles with URL links to images housed at your own web site for at least three years are acceptable.)



Letter Re: Batteries for Long Term Storage

Jim::
A note about future trade items. Large conventional lead-acid batteries. They are necessary for starting most vehicles, tractors, etc. They are necessary for off-grid solar electric systems, et cetera. The problem as I see it is – long term storage. Most batteries come filled – and degrade over time regardless if you use them or not. Some companies are willing to sell batteries dry – for long-term storage – but even that comes with a problem. Most batteries offered for sale as “dry” have actually been filled once, charged, and then drained – thus the common term of “dry charged.” These batteries still degrade over time – it’s slower but still happens. For long term battery storage, what is needed is a truly dry battery that has been assembled but never filled or charged. Very few companies sell them this way, but some do on special order.
JD from New York

JWR Replies: If stored “wet” typical automobile and deep cycle batteries will sulfate to the point where they won’t hold a charge after 8 or 9 years. You are correct that the way to avoid this is to store batteries “dry”–sans battery acid. Some of the larger battery distributors including Interstate Batteries will indeed provide truly “dry” batteries on special order. But you are right: that you need to be sure that you are getting batteries than have never been filled with electrolyte. And of course you will need to also procure some carboys of battery acid. Filling batteries has its own set of handling, safety, and storage concerns.

If you do things right, with enough cash you could potentially buy yourself a 30+ year supply of spare batteries for your vehicle(s) and for your alternative home power system. And yes, JD, you are also correct that they will be an awesome barter item.



Letter Re: Constructing a High Efficiency (Low Current Draw) Refrigerator

Hi Jim
There was an article on your blog a few weeks ago about converting a chest freezer into a low wattage refrigerator. I decided to make one of these as it is a great idea. I purchased a 7 cu ft freezer at Home Depot for $200 and then bought this device (the Johnson model) and that was all that I needed.

I first used it as a freezer and put a Kill A Watt [current monitor] on it. It averaged 1.13 KW per 24 hours. I then used the thermostat and used it as a refrigerator and tested it with the Kill A Watt and [found that it then] used .536 kw per 24 hours. The freezer is in the garage (average 80 degrees now) and as summer heats up, I’m sure the usage will increase. (I’m in Florida) but I’m sure it will still draw less current than a 100 w light bulb.

I do not have a photovoltaic (PV) system yet, but I am designing it so that it will power the fridge, as well as other basic electrical needs. Best Regards, – The Other Other Kurt

JWR Replies: Many thanks for sending those details! There are millions of diabetics whose lives might be saved with effective refrigeration of insulin during a natural disaster, localized power failure, or a widespread power grid failure (such as the U.S. blackout in August of 2003). I am surprised that the various charitable organizations involved in diabetes research and prophylaxis haven’t made this sort of information widely available. A small PV panel powered system is affordable for most diabetics in First World countries.
OBTW, your letter just won you a Blinding Flash of the Obvious (BFO) award. I will be sending you an autographed copy of one of my books.



Letter Re: Advice on Engine Oil for Motorcycles

Jim:
Regarding the letter on motorcycle engine oils, you are correct about most motorcycles using a wet clutch and the need for extra additives in the oil, but there are a couple of other issues of importance.
First off, cars use a separate oil supply for engine and gearbox, which allows the oil manufacturer to customize oils for each application. Motorcycle engines on the other hand usually use a common supply for both, which means that motorcycle oils need the additives in them for both engine and gearbox applications. The problem is that being in an engine destroys the additives needed for the gearbox, and vice versa, which is one of the reasons that motorcycle oils need changing so often.
The other issue is that motorcycles tend to be in a much higher state of tune than a similar sized car engine, and hence work their lubricants a lot harder. This shortens their life too, and means that you need higher performance lubricants in the first place.
When picking an oil you need to ask yourself two questions :
Is the oil supply for engine and gearbox separate?
Is there a dry clutch?
If you can answer yes to both questions then good car oils will do the job. If the answer to either is no, then you really need dedicated motorcycle oils.
The Harley brand oil mentioned in the original letter should have a section on the label telling you what particular standards it meets (as will any oil). Look for the text talking about American Petroleum Institute (API) standards or service classes.
The service class is a two letter code, the first being S for spark ignition (petrol / gasoline) or C for compression ignition (diesel), the second letter identifies the exact standard, with B being more modern than A. Given that engine performance has increased with time, a B standard oil could be said to be higher performance than an A standard oil (very, very roughly). Standards develop with time, and many are obsolete, but so long as the oil you use meets or exceeds the standard on the bottle / in the owners manual then you are should be OK (i.e if you need an oil to service class SF, then oil to class SG will do, but not the other way round).
Bear in mind the points above though, if you have a wet clutch / shared oil supply you must use a proper motorcycle oil as a car oil will not have the correct additives.
I’d also be as wary of using really cheap oils, even though they meet the required standard. They will be cheap because they use cheap ingredients, which won’t last as long in the engine. Oils degrade as you use the engine, and a good oil will degrade less then a cheap one will.
As to traditional versus synthetic, well synthetic oils work better, lasts longer in the engine and can have a wider temperature grade – 5W50 against 20W50 (for example). Given that most engine wear happens when it starts (before the oil gets moving) an oil that is 5 weight when cold will be lubricating the engine a lot earlier than one that is 20 weight, so the synthetic oil will help your engine to last longer too. The down side of course is that synthetic oils are much more expensive.
The higher performance the engine, the more important this will be. A Harley (which is low performance by motorcycle standards) would see less benefit than the latest Japanese or Italian racer. I hope that the preceding is informative, and thanks for all the effort that goes into the site. – Brian E.



Odds ‘n Sods:

I noticed that spot silver and gold have broken out of their narrow trading ranges. It is unusual for metals to make a big move like this at this time of year. (Summer has traditionally been a quiet time for the precious metals markets.) So this move might foreshadow a frantic market this coming Fall. As I often say: 1.) Silver will considerably out-perform gold in this bull market and 2.) Buy on the dips!

  o o o

The new Western Rifle Shooters organization is having their first rifle training event in Kooskia, Idaho on July 7-8.

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Will the violence in Sonora, Mexico spill over into Arizona?



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"And he said unto them, When I sent you without purse, and scrip, and shoes, lacked ye any thing? And they said, – Nothing. Then said he unto them, But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip: and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one. For I say unto you, that this that is written must yet be accomplished in me, And he was reckoned among the transgressors: for the things concerning me have an end. And they said, Lord, behold, here are two swords. And he said unto them, It is enough." – Luke 22:35-38 (KJV)



Letter Re: Relocating to Bonner’s Ferry, Idaho

Jim,
When I sell my place in Coeur d’ Alene, I will be looking to relocate in the Bonners Ferry area. Is there anything that I should be aware of? Are there any areas to avoid other than property near the railroads?. Thank You and Best Regards, – John

JWR Replies: I highly recommend the Bonner’s Ferry area as a retreat locale. Railroad tracks are indeed a key issue in both Bonner County and Boundary County. (It is confusing to first-time visitors to the area, but Bonner’s Ferry is in Boundary County.) It seems that most of the private land in both counties with river frontage are either right on the highway, or right on the railroad tracks. (Or both!) If I lived there, I would worry about the railroad tracks as both an additional “line of drift” and a derailment hazard. (And I dislike hearing close-by trains.) Some train traffic “funnel” areas, especially Sandpoint, get a huge volume of rail traffic. Three major rail lines pass through Sandpoint. Bonner’s Ferry has similar traffic–up to 40 trains a day.

Another key issue in north Idaho is home siting. Elevation and exposure are crucial to have a viable gardening season. Some properties at 2,500 feet and southern or western exposure only have snow that “sticks” for three month of the year. But if you were to buy a higher elevation property with a northern-facing home site, then you might have snow for 6+ months of the year!

I recommend that you contact Todd Savage, a real estate agent that formerly had an office in Sandpoint, but recently opened a new office in Bonner’s Ferry. (He was with Coldwell Banker, but went independent.) Todd specializes in retreat properties. He is one of the few real estate agents that I’ve met who really “gets it”–both in terms of self-sufficiency and defendable terrain. On a recent consulting trip, I spent some time with Todd and walked a 150+ acre property, near Bonner’s Ferry that is presently on the market. It has exceptional privacy, plenty of timber, some decent pastures, and two different creeks running through it. It has US Forest Service land on three sides and already has an off-grid (PV-powered) squared-log house. The house has a really nice exposure. There is plenty of wild game. One nice thing is that this property sits a half mile back from the highway, and it is nowhere near any railroad tracks. It is just about ideal for a semi-remote retreat. You can contact Todd Savage via e-mail: toddsavage47@gmail.com or via cellular phone: 208-946-1151.



Four Letters Re: Raising Goats for Self-Sufficiency

Jim,
Perfect timing on this article by Freeholder, as my wife and I were literally talking that day about getting goats! That alone made me think that I need to hang out here for a while. I’ve gone through a lot of the posts on here, and I’m very thankful to have found your place!
I’m in Iraq right now, for the 3rd time, this time I’m working in the Embassy. I retire in five years, and the wife and I can’t wait to move to our rural home! I’m lucky, I’m married to a woman who is very self sufficiency minded as well, and has a special interest in homeopathic and all natural medicines and remedies.
Again, thanks for the work you put into this site, and I look forward to learning more and contributing in my own small way. Take care. Regards, – S.

Jim:
In “Raising Goats for Self-Sufficiency,” Freeholder discussed feed requirements and mentioned that a pasture filled with brush and blackberries could considerably reduce hay costs. He also mentioned in passing that Kiko goats are a desirable meat breed. What didn’t get mentioned is that Kikos are unexcelled at thriving on a diet of brush and other rough forage. They developed this ability in the mountains of New Zealand, to which they repaired after escaping from the care of the early English settlers there. Fast forward 300 years, and some NZ farmers realized there must be some very hardy, self-reliant breeding stock out there, went out and captured some, bred them back to Swiss dairy goats to improve their milking ability, established a stable breed, and gave them the name Kiko, which means “meat” in Maori. And indeed, Kikos are primarily known as a meat breed, but their Swiss genes also make them decent milkers. All in all, they may be the very best goat for self-sufficient situations – if you’re in a place with lots of brush around. My kikos thrive on their brush diet, augmented only by a single flake of hay in the morning and twice-daily feedings of a quart of dry culled beans, shared among 12 goats. (And there are Kiko breeders who insist that a brush-only diet is the best way to maintain the hardiness of the breed.) Kikos have fewer hoof problems than other breeds and are very good at giving birth unattended. The does are excellent mothers. (Kikos who didn’t possess these traits didn’t pass on their genes in the NZ outback.)

You can learn a lot about Kikos from the International Kiko Goat Assn. Regards, Charley S.

 

Dear JWR,
I just completed reading “Raising Goats for Self-Sufficiency” by Freeholder and was laughing almost the whole way through! That is when I wasn’t surprised by some of his additional facts. I had been looking at meat goats for my retirement plan over several years prior to actually putting the plan into action and it is really taking a lot longer to get my herd to begin to grow than I would have thought, so his overall advice to not “wait until you need them is” visionary. That’s why I would love to assist in casting a vote for him in your contest.

My husband is a “long-time” survivalist and I have happily agreed with his position. Being prepared for what-ever ill fate we have thus far endured and could envision enduring if the SHTF I have found nothing faulty in his thoughts. Simple things like not having to buy coffee during the price spike of a few years ago has done nothing but strengthen our resolve to not be “the 48 hours away from starvation attitude” the rest of the world seems to embrace.

Originally from Long Island, New York we could see nothing but the neck at the end of a noose entrapment from our geographic location. The only way out was through water, air or millions of people. We figured we better be in a better spot before TSHTF! Seeking a more Libertarian location; friendly to gun owners, low taxes, small government, and not half-way around the world, we found New Hampshire. However, the “Live Free or Die” State is slowly becoming the “Roll Over and Comply” State. More and more migrants from the “Socially Conscious – Liberal” surrounding states are invading. Unfortunately, while they bring their love of lower taxes they can’t seem to comprehend that the lower taxes cannot co-exist with the social agendas that they bring with them to the State. We find we are at a 50/50 breaking point now and the State could go either way – depending on the next wave of migrants.

A subject that my husband has become increasingly interested in, is hearing first-hand experiences from others with Wood-gasification. He knows that this process was used successfully during World War II by the European citizens as a way of powering their equipment when gasoline and diesel weren’t available and believes to this day that it will be the only options for many of us if TEOTWAWKI occurs or should I say “when”? A valuable web site he has found is http://www.gengas.nu/byggbes/index.shtml This report is about the only thing we have found from FEMA that made absolute sense and is well worth the read. Thanks for everything you do, – Wife of NH Jumbo

 

James:
In response to Freeholder’s essay on goats. Very well written. My wife and I are also long-term goat people (for lack of a better title). We?ve kept goats for 30 years plus. For the past 15 years, we specialized in selling breeding stock, and . . . witnessed several bad outcomes with inexperienced people buying goats. We got to a point we?d refuse to sell to certain people in an effort to avoid future calamity. Finally, last year – we gave up selling to the general public all together. It is not worth the hassle to us – considering the new legal difficulties with animal registration requirements – and bad outcomes with inexperienced buyers. A few goat “tips.”
Breed matters. If you want goats – try to figure out exactly what you want them for – and work from there. Not all members of one select breed will demonstrate all the traits it is known for – but it?s a good start. Some breeds tend to be excellent milk producers, some breeds are meat producers, some do better on poor feed than others. Some have better natural instincts including birthing and caring for their young. This is very important – unless you want a bunch of dead goat kids – or – don?t mind hand feeding them yourself.
Goats tend to be very intelligent, creative, and adaptive. That usually makes them very hard to fence. This comes back to breed again. I assume – a goat too dumb to escape maybe not be desirable, so is there an alternative? Yes, there are very smart breeds that have physical hindrances that make them easier to keep. We keep Tennessee Fainting Goats – also known as Myotonic Goats, Wooden Leg Goats, Texas Meat Goats, etc.
In our experience, the Tennessee Fainting goats are the easiest keepers of any breed we?ve had, especially the smaller ones. They have a genetic trait that causes them to get muscle lock-up when startled – scared – excited – etc. Subsequently, they don?t tend to take the chances with escapes like many other goat breeds do. After years of keeping Boers, Alpines, Nubians, Spanish Meat, Pygmies, etc., the Tennessee Goats were a pleasure. They tend to have good instincts with birthing and raising their young. They are good for meat. They are poor for milking though, when compared to most other breeds. They can be kept for milk production, but production will be low.
A few things we?ve tried to warn first-time goat buyers about. All goats are social animals, they do not do well if raised alone. Always have at least a pair, unless you plan on keeping the goat with some other farm animal, e.g. a horse, donkey, etc. And, don?t assume any goat will get along with any other animal (goat, horse, etc.). Like many living things, each can have a distinct and unique personality.
Raising your own – means birthing, kid feeding -by you or the mother, and having a buck or two around. Buck goats can be absolutely miserable!. When they get feeling romantic, they emit a grease from various parts of their bodies that can be smelled a mile away on a damp day. It will get on your clothes and make you want to burn them. The bucks will also be somewhat possessive of “their” females during parts of the year when they are dating. With some goat breeds, this can be twice a year – and with some others – once.
The last kid sale we made – before ceasing sales to the public went as follows. A very nice, suburban sophisticated woman from central Maine contacted me. She wanted to buy six buck goats kids. That surprised us – since usually – buck kids are unwanted and get sold for meat at the local animal auction. After speaking to the woman, I learned that she had no goat experience, but . . . had read several books and had a plan. She lived in a suburban area with five acres of land. She wanted goats for keeping brush down on her land – instead of mowing it. Her plan was – to get five bucks – since they are cheaper to buy then does. In fact, at our farm we?d often give buck kids away for free is we thought someone would raise them – instead of them going to slaughter. This Maine woman figured – that since there?d be no female goats in her area to arouse these males – she?d not suffer any of the negative things that horny buck goats are known for. Well – six months later, she called me from Maine. I?m in New York. She was in a panic. Ends up, these “adaptive” young bucks – worked around the absence of females – by getting “aroused” with each other. She told me they all stunk so bad she couldn?t get near them, and they were “mounting” each other, all day, every day, and it had been going on for a week. Since she was in a suburban area, she had many shocked and complaining neighbors. She offered to pay me – to drive to Maine and take them all back. Call me a bad guy, but I did not do it. She was furious with me and my wife – even though we had warned her previously. She even threatened to sue us – for exactly what – I don?t know. Breach of Goat? Anyway, that was it – we quit selling. At that time, the state of New York was getting ready to pass legislation that was going to make selling goats and lambs across state lines very complicated – so the event with the woman from Maine was all it took to put us over the edge.
Goats are amazing and wonderful animals. I had one that rode with me in my pickup truck, along with my dog. They can do an amazing job a brush conversion and will eat scrub that horses and cattle will not. They can also destroy your garden and/or young fruit trees in record time – if they get loose. Just keep these things in mind.
If someone is interested in keeping animals with a retreat mentality, the breed is an important choice – for any animal. Many newer breeds have had the instincts bred out of them. Kind of like some people I know. Even some stock from older breeds has been severely dumbed down. This means that many chickens no longer know how to nest, sit, hatch eggs, brood and protect their young. Also means that certain types of four-legged stock do not do well on scrubby fields, do not birth well, some have bodies too big for their legs, etc.
it is best to do some research – perhaps starting with the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.
They do a great job with the preservation of historic breeds of animals in North America – and offer a lot of information – animal historic attributes, how and where to buy, etc. Keep in mind, that even if you select a breed known to have certain traits – the ones you buy might not have them. Best is find a breeder that culls their flock or herd and selects for animals showing the desired traits. – JD from New York



Odds ‘n Sods:

Australian Researcher warns about Mass Human Extinction from Global Environmental Collapse

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Radio ‘Screams’ Forecast Dangerous Solar Storms

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Reader Michael W. mentioned that he will be running one of the lines at the RWVA Appleseed in Bloomington Illinois this weekend. (June 2-3, 2007.) He said that he’d love to meet any SurvivalBlog readers who can attend. This is a great opportunity to learn to shoot an MBR well, or increase your score on the AQT if you are already a rifleman. The cost is just $70 for the weekend, free camping and genuine camaraderie.

   o o o

From Drudge: Smile, You’re on Google Earth–New “Street Views” feature. Yet another reason to live in the hinterboonies.