Letter Re: A Learning Exercise with “Get Out of Dodge” Applicability

Dear Jim,
I thought I’d relay an exercise I learned from last year.
Every year, I do a large historical re-enactment in Pennsylvania. I take two tents totaling 300 square feet, my forge, tools, clothing and gear for a family of four down to a four poster bed, tables, chairs and workbench, plus merchandise to sell. This fills a conversion van with rear seat removed and a standard kit-built trailer. It’s great rehearsal for bugging out. Packing takes about 8 hours.
Before I left, I realized the brakes were a little soft. I made a point of leaving lots of clearance on the highway. The trip is exactly 403 miles from my house. Most of it is interstate.
Upon leaving the event to return home, I realized the trip out with the cargo and trailer had beaten the brakes up a lot. They were definitely soft. I left lots of clearance. My wife had gone ahead, and I had both kids.
Our usual trip home includes a detour on a state route, two lane, through Ohio hills, to stop at an ice cream factory. I was on this road and came over a hill at normal speed–55–and saw a line of cars backed up behind one turning left. I braked and felt the pedal sink. I was moments from plowing 3 tons of van and cargo into a Toyota. I found there was just enough room in someone’s front yard to get between the traffic and a tree. Honestly, I was prepared to sideswipe or lose the trailer to avoid that wreck, and I was lucky there was no ditch. It worked. I pulled over as soon as I could stop and checked things over. Grass and mud everywhere, but no serious problems.
However, as we left the ice cream factory, I heard a whine, rumble, and lost a trailer tire. I always carry two spares, so I pulled into a farmer’s driveway (paved, it’s central Ohio) and got to work. The blowout had also shifted the cargo in the trailer and split the wooden side from the hinge holding it. The tarp was acting as structural support.
I couldn’t find the jack. I knew I had a jack, but I couldn’t find it. It wasn’t under the passenger seat, nor all the way in back with the trailer spares. I tried using some dunnage and lumber to pry the trailer up, but no luck. I knew I could lift it myself and have my daughter prop dunnage under, if it was empty, but that’s a 2-3 hour job to repack, and we’d been at it hard for 12 days and had 250 miles to go, at 90+ degrees with no air conditioning. I tried to go ahead and break the lugs loose, but they were too tight even with me standing on the wrench.
The farmhouse was empty, with a sign noting they were gone until Sept, when apple harvest would start (I think, don’t quote me), and I’d rather not start hiking with two small kids, so I tried to flag someone down. Luckily, two minutes later, a very nice man and his wife on a Harley were heading back toward the small town we’d left, and said they’d let a garage know. They even returned to report on it.
A few minutes later, two country boys in a pickup showed up with a screw gun, an air compressor, an impact wrench and a jack. Five minutes later we were good to go. The guy running it said he wasn’t sure how to price it, so I handed him two $20s. I would have paid $100 and not flinched.
I left a lot of distance ahead the rest of the way home, especially on the state roads, and on the Columbus bypass.
And of course, when I unpacked I found the jack, under the other passenger seat, where I’d inadvertently moved it to fit in the extra first aid kit and fire extinguisher.

The lessons here are: always maintain the vehicle. Less than 90% means fix it now. Always inventory your emergency gear with hands-on when loading, so you know where it is. Always leave extra distance and assume there’s a roadblock, stopped vehicle or such over the next hill, until you can see. Always check your spares and all lug [nut]s (I’ve had a frozen lug on the van before, too) regularly and before a trip. – Michael Z. Williamson



Letter Re: Advice on FN FAL Rifles

Good Morning Jim,
I have been a dedicated reader of your site since almost the beginning and am (finally) mailing my 10 Cent Challenge [voluntary subscription payment] today.

My weapons of choice have always been [Model] 1911 pistols and AK variants. I have long lists of reasons for those choices, but that is a discussion for another day.

I am now thinking of buying a FN FAL and have no idea where to start. I know that FN FALs are your battle rifle of choice, and I understand your reasons. Can you help me (and your other readers, I’m sure) with the following questions:

1. Are FN FALs being made today?
2. If they are in current production, who is manufacturing them? (Do they have a web site?)
3. What should a person expect to pay for an FN FAL? New? Used?
4. Anything a person should be on the lookout for when shopping for an FN FAL?

Thank you for your help. I look forward to your responses, and I bet some other readers will find this info helpful too. Thank you! – Nick in Indy

JWR Replies: In answer to your questions, yes, FALs are still being made, but they are no longer being made in Belgium by FN. The FN-built FAL rifles are considered the benchmark of quality, and bring a premium price. Most of the FALs on the market in the US these days are “parts kits” gun, assembled with used military parts and newly-manufactured semi-auto receivers. (These receivers have an ejector block that cannot accept the full automatic sear.) The quality of these rifles varies widely. A few are assembled by people that shouldn’t be trusted mounting car tires, much less headspacing a rifle. Therefore, I recommend that you buy a FAL only from a reputable, well-known manufacturer, or that you acquire your own receiver and parts set, and have it custom built by a gunsmith such as CGW (one of our advertisers) or Arizona Response Systems. The U.S. “factory” maker that I recommend is DSA. They make umpteen FAL variants.
I also recommend the rifles that were formerly made by Springfield Armory (the pre-ban SAR-48 and the post-ban SAR-4800.)
For spare parts and accessories, I recommend Gun Parts Guy.

Prices for pre-ban and post ban FALs vary considerably. Typical post-ban FALs from parts kits range from $500 to $1,100. A top-of-the-line post-ban built by DSA can be 1,000 to $1,800 depending on specifications. Pre-ban FN FALs range from $1,400 for a typical used SAR-48 or Argentine FM-LSR, to $3,200 for a like-new pre-ban folding stock (“Para”) FAL made by FN of Belgium.

Again, look for a FAL from a well-known maker. Be advised that under section 922(r) of the US Code, all post-ban semi-auto rifles must have seven US-made parts. It is beyond the scope of this letter to explain all of the details of that regulation here. Refer to the Legal Forum at The FAL Files Forums for more on the section 922(r) requirements. Suffice it to say that some home builder omit the seven US-made parts. This is just one more reason to only buy a rifle built by a “name” gunsmith or manufacturer. They do all of their FAL “builds” in compliance with section 922(r).
For any used rifle or any rifle that was built with a used parts kit, pay particular attention to the bore condition before you make the purchase.

For more about both metric and L1A1 (“inch pattern”) rifles, first read my brief FAQ on FALs and L1A1s and then spend some time working your way through the archives at The FAL Files. There, you will learn about the various models, makers, accessories, spare parts, and so forth. The FAL Files Discussion Forums are a great place to learn even more. The folks there are happy to answer questions from “newbies” to the FAL fraternity.

My personal preference is for L1A1 inch pattern FAL variants. They are more sturdy than metric guns, and less prone to jamming when dirty. They are also the most versatile in terms of accepting magazines. (An inch rifle can accept either inch or metric FAL magazines, but a metric FAL can only accept metric magazines–not inch!) We have five L1A1s here at the ranch, all built on pre-ban receivers. Three of them were built by Rich Saunders of CGW. Rich does fantastic work. Our other two are SAR-48s that were rebuilt to inch specifications (with their receivers re-cut to accept both inch magazines and folding charging handles) by T. Mark Graham of Arizona Response Systems.



Letter Re: A Reader’s Perspective on Assembling a Survival Firearms Battery

Jim, it seems that several of your readers have been exercising their keyboards on the subject of “survival batteries” lately. This has been great sport since the days of Mel Tappan and I have seen countless lists of just was is “absolutely” needed. Methinks that many of these well-meaning folks have never carried firearms on a regular basis and used them for work.

I spent 12 years in the law enforcement business, eight of which I was an NRA certified instructor. I carried a gun, both in uniform and concealed, for every day of those 12 years. Based on my experience, I have far fewer firearms than most of your respondents. My long-range rifle is a 30-30. Yup, 30-30, good to 200 yards, based on my experience. Have a .357 lever action for pest control (both four- and two-legged kinds) and a 22 for general use. Have a couple to 12 gauge pumps because they are most effective a close ranges and, in my situation, I won’t have long-range encounters. Have a couple of .357 revolvers but I don’t emphasize the handguns because “they just ain’t good enough” when push comes to shove. But I do have lots of ammo stored. I wouldn’t mind having a Garand (box magazine get in the way maneuver-and-shoot) but the cost is too high.

Decidedly low-tech, relatively low-cost in comparison to the urban commando outfits being presented by the Blog’s readers. But based on the experience of carrying and using firearms in the course of working. “Ideas that sound good are not a good replacement for what actually works” Keep up the good work! – B.A.C., Sacramento, California



Odds ‘n Sods:

Steve H. and Ben L. both mentioned this: New fire-retardant gel can save homes. Ben’s comment: $12,000 to $20,000 may seem like quite a bit of money, but compared to the total price of a house, is it really that much?

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I just noticed that JRH Enterprises had a couple of scarce Gen 3 AN/PVS-14 night vision weapon sights available. With the current heavy government contract demand to support the war in Iraq, these don’t hit the civilian market very often!

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The price of wheat has gone up 75% in just the past six months. Little did we know that we were sitting on a gold mine.

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From frequent contributor RBS: U.S. Treasury-Insurers won’t cover nuclear risks





Note from JWR:

Today we present the first article for Round 13 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 13 ends on November 30th. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



Homeschooling During the Crunch, by Nathaniel

Let’s say that you and your family having been taking the advice provided here by Mr. Rawles and are squared away for the Crunch—you’ve got your bullets, beans, and band-aids, all piled high in a structurally reinforced home out in the middle of nowhere. You’ve got just about every survivalist book ever printed, plus the tools and skills you’ll need to provide for yourself and your family. You also, of course, have the basic life skills that you’ll need to simply stay alive—things like shooting, tracking, cooking, and first aid.

Have you thought, however, about the education of your children? Public schools, private schools, and universities will likely close their doors. And even if any remain open, the education they provide would be of questionable value when society is falling apart. Clearly, the most important things for children to know will be the things that survivalist parents have been teaching them for a long time—skills like shooting, cooking, sewing, and first aid—and none of those are taught sufficiently well in the typical school.

But will children really need to learn anything else during the Crunch? After all, what is the value of “book learning” when you’re far from civilization, simply trying to survive? Does it really matter who wrote A Tale of Two Cities? Of what importance is learning to tell the difference between it’s and its or good and well? And who cares about calculating the length of the hypotenuse of a right triangle?

Actually, all of that is important. The three R’s (reading, [w]riting, and [a]rithmetic) will always be of value, no matter how bad things get, as will a variety of other subjects. Why? Because in all except the most horrific SHTF scenarios, people move out of their bunkers after several years and again begin to interact with their neighbors, first just to barter, and later to gather socially. Society eventually rebuilds, and as it does so, leaders are needed to fill the gap—people who are able to communicate effectively and think critically about the problems they face. How are such leaders raised? In part, through their education.
We’ve already established that traditional educational services will almost certainly be non-operational once the Schumer hits the fan, so survivalists must look elsewhere for a solution. Essentially, that solution is some form of homeschooling, because when society isn’t functioning, your children will have no one to learn from other than you.

Are you ready for that? Some of you already homeschool your kids—that’s great. But regardless of whether you already do or not, you may not be prepared for the day when there are no more easily obtainable textbooks, no more homeschool co-ops, no more video lectures, and no more sources of basic school supplies. Could you, with only the resources that you have now, teach your kids the important things that they need to know for the next three, four, or five years? How about the next ten?

Before going any further, let’s clear up some common misconceptions. First, you don’t need to be a professional teacher to be a successful homeschooling parent. College degrees in education might make you more capable of teaching a class of thirty students, but you certainly don’t need a degree to teach one or two kids at a time. Second, you don’t need specialized curriculum or fancy textbooks. Textbooks are a relatively new invention and can be useful in some cases, but they certainly aren’t essential if you have a good attitude and the right tools.

So what do you need? Well, you need some general supplies, a few basic tools, and most importantly, books—lots of books.

The essential tools and supplies are for the most part obvious—pencils and paper are a good start, and you can stock up for pennies during back-to-school sales at major retailers. Don’t settle for junk, however—you’ll be kicking yourself for buying those cheap mechanical pencils when they’re all breaking after a month or two of use. The best strategy is to simply buy a mechanical pencil sharpener if you don’t already own one, and plenty of boxes of old fashioned yellow pencils, with separate rubber erasers still in their original plastic wrapping. Don’t forget the tools you’ll need to teach math, either—items like protractors and well-made compasses are essential. Something else you may not have thought of is a slide rule, since calculator screens and batteries are prone to failure. Slide rules last for decades if properly cared for, and have the added benefit of forcing their users to engage their brains. Of course, since you’re going to be teaching your kids how to use these tools, make sure you know how to use them yourself.
Next up is books. This is the most important part of your homeschool preparation, simply because the right books are packed with valuable information that’s accessible to anyone who is able to read—both the teacher and the student. Furthermore, it’s possible to get most books for only a little bit of money—used book stores and library book sales are excellent ways to build a large library on a small budget.
The key reference works that everyone ought to own include a Bible, an exhaustive concordance, and a modern unabridged English dictionary. A complete encyclopedia would also be a valuable resource, and versions printed a few decades ago can be obtained at little cost. Your Bible and concordance should be of the same version, and the version should be both readable and accurate for serious study. Some prefer more literal versions like the New American Standard or the English Standard Version, while others like the grandeur of the King James Version or the readability of the New International Version. Get a version you like and will read, and get the concordance to go with it.

To teach your child to read, depending on age, you’ll need a variety of interesting and educational books. Teach phonics and short-sentence reading, and then move on to picture books like the Frog and Toad series (Arnold Lobel) and stories by Dr. Seuss. Eventually, you’ll be able to make the move to some of the older Newbery Prize winners, like A Wrinkle in Time (Madeleine L’Engle), Carry On, Mr. Bowditch (Jean Lee Latham) Amos Fortune, and Free Man (Elizabeth Yates). Other excellent children’s books include The Secret Garden (Frances Hodgson Burnett), the Little House series (Laura Ingalls Wilder), The Chronicles of Narnia (C. S. Lewis), The Princess and the Goblin (George MacDonald), anything by E. B. White, My Side of the Mountain (Jean Craighead George), The Sign of the Beaver (Elizabeth George Speare), Anne of Green Gables (L. M. Montgomery) and the Redwall series (Brian Jacques). Pre-teens and teenagers ought to be able to start digesting heavier works—begin with John Bunyan, Mark Twain, and J. R. R. Tolkien, and then move on to Charles Dickens, Jane Austen, Fyodor Dostoevsky, Herman Melville, Ernest Hemingway, and other great authors. Poetry is also excellent reading material—start with the classics by poets like Rudyard Kipling, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and Robert Service. You can also read any of these works aloud to younger kids, thereby giving them early exposure to the masters of the written word.

A strong writer is necessarily an accomplished reader, so by providing literature to your children, you are also encouraging the development of their writing skills. Writing can be improved by a lot of practice and by studying examples in literature, but resources like The Elements of Style by Stunk and White (get the 3rd edition—the 4th edition was made more politically correct by a shameless ghost writer) make it much easier. Do not underestimate the importance of the skill of writing—it forms the basis of all effective communication.

Mathematics can be taught without textbooks as well, but depending on your own familiarity with the subject, it may be difficult. Today it’s not uncommon to find people who can’t make change in their head or balance a checkbook, so if that describes you, make an effort to develop your math skills. You ought to be able to explain concepts like arithmetic (including long division and three digit multiplication), percentages, units of measurement, distance and graphs, and simple logic. A working knowledge of geometry, trigonometry, logarithms, probability, statistics, and calculus would be even better, but some find this difficult to attain. At this level, many will find it necessary to use textbooks, but there’s usually no need to have a separate textbook for each grade: entry-level college math textbooks cover a wide variety of topics and older versions are extremely inexpensive when purchased at book sales or online. Get one that has the answers in the back of the book, or one that comes with a solution manual.
As the new society develops, there will be a need for people who understand how government works and who understand the basis of government by the people. Works like Two Treatises of Government (John Locke), The Federalist (Hamilton, Madison, and Jay), and Democracy in America (Alexis de Tocqueville) provide a better understanding of government than any civics textbook ever could, and supplementing these works with opposing viewpoints like those found in The Communist Manifesto (Engels and Marx) can generate healthy discussion.

History can be taught in a variety of ways, but one of the easiest is through biographies. Learning about the lives of people like Alexander the Great, Marcus Aurelius, Augustine, Martin Luther, Leonardo da Vinci, Shakespeare, George Washington, Simón Bolívar, Napoleon, Robert E. Lee, George Washington Carver, Theodore Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, Adolf Hitler, Martin Luther King, Jr., and others can provide a basic understanding of world history. Historical fiction like that written by G. A. Henty can also be a valuable resource, because it simultaneously engages young readers and teaches history.
You may decide to teach a foreign language, or perhaps a “dead” language such as Latin, Ancient Greek, or New Testament Greek. A dictionary, grammar, and Bible in the language are all you absolutely need, but for foreign languages, a few fiction (especially juvenile fiction) books can make it more fun. It’s also extremely helpful to have access to someone who already knows and speaks the language well, so make sure you know the language capabilities of the people in your retreat group.

Science is best taught through experiments, and it’s often possible to incorporate science lessons into everyday life. Turn your latest kill into a biology lesson by analyzing all the organs and talking about what each does. Physics is critical for understanding bullet drop, and many chemistry experiments can be performed with supplies found in the survivalist kitchen. The theory behind these sciences can be easily discovered in a low-cost college textbook purchased at a book sale, but beware of physics texts that are calculus-based unless you’re prepared to teach that as well.

Despite its reputation among the more practical-minded, art encourages creativity and appreciation for Creation. The easiest way to teach art during the crunch will likely be drawing, because all you need are pencils, paper, and a view of the great outdoors. Drawing also has practical value, because a precise drawing can communicate some information more effectively than the written word. Other forms of art, such as painting and music, require more supplies and equipment, making them more expensive and harder to continue once re-supply is impossible.

There are other subjects that you may wish to teach, such as geography, astronomy, or economics. My advice is the same for these topics—find excellent practical books on each, and let them guide how you teach. Some kids enjoy learning directly from books, but others will prefer a more hands-on approach. Use some creativity to provide the learning experience that best matches your child’s style, and remember that all the information you need is hidden in the pages of the books in your library.

In addition to purchasing all these books and supplies, you should to get the experience of teaching your kids now, before you need to do it. Just like it’s foolish to build an arsenal of firearms but skip weapons training, it isn’t easy to suddenly turn into a good teacher for your kids. Taking the time now to homeschool will help you get ready for when it’s necessary, and besides, both you and your kids will likely benefit from the additional time together. If you can’t homeschool full-time due to time or financial constraints, do you best to practice teaching in your spare time, by reading to your kids and doing fun experiments in the basement. Do whatever you can, both in terms of skill development and resource acquisition, because you owe it to your children to start preparing for the day when other options are no longer available and their education rests entirely in your hands.

JWR Adds: Even SurvivalBlog readers that currently send their children to private school should plan ahead for circumstances that might necessitate home schooling. This could be because of self-quarantine during a pandemic, a natural disaster that disrupts transportation and public school schedules, TEOTWAWKI, or even just the loss of income because of a layoff. Regardless, you should plan ahead, and start stocking up on home schooling curriculum!



Letter Re: A Political Solution to America’s Pending Economic Catastrophe

Mr. Rawles:
I recently read your novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse”. I actually had to read it twice. (The first time for enjoyment, and the second time to take down notes.) With all of the recent news about the collapse of the credit market, monetizing of the National Debt and out of control Federal spending (which all sound frighteningly close to the first chapter of “Patriots”), I can only wonder how much longer America can hang in there before we suffer a total economic collapse. I can only see one possible hope: a return to a fiscally-sound constitutional government.And I only see one presidential candidate who is promising to do that: Congressman Ron Paul.

I strongly encourage all SurvivalBlog readers that live in the US to get involved in the Ron Paul campaign. He is our only hope to get us back on track, economically. He stands for a lot of things that will ring true with SurvivalBlog readers. He is: pro-Second Amendment, favors smaller government (within Constitutional limits), favors abolishing both the 16th Amendment and the Federal Reserve system, and favors free market capitalism and restoring a sound currency backed by gold and silver. (See the Ron Paul 2008 web site or his full platform.) I realize that your blog must intentionally be non-political to avoid divisive flame wars and chases down political rabbit trails. But I consider this a survival issue! With all of the other issues aside, after having watched a lot of his speeches and debates on YouTube, I am now sure that Ron Paul is the right choice for America, economically. I’m convinced that all of the other presidential candidates will just continue down the path of Big Government (and consequently big spending and big budget deficits.) I believe that if Ron Paul is elected and his platform is adopted by congress, we can probably avert an economic catastrophe. I feel so strongly about this that I’m buying ad space for a Ron Paul 2008 ad in one of your scrolling banner ad spots until the November, 2008 election. This way, I will be supporting both Ron Paul and SurvivalBlog. Sincerely, – Al in Indiana



Weekly Survival Real Estate Market Update

Run and Hide, Walk and Talk
I hear it all the time from clients, the magical question of “where can I buy a property that will allow me to hide-away from it all and not be noticed”. My answer is simple. If you want to really ‘hide’ from the powers that may or may not be, live in the biggest city you can find in a flat across from the nearest public transportation system, period. If you think that moving to a small town will give you that wanted anonymity, you’re wrong. In a small rural town and setting most everyone knows your business, no matter what you do to try and hide it. Think about it, you have a local contractor (big mistake) give you an estimate on your new ‘wine cellar’ storage facility. Within 24 hours he has had a beer with his buddies, a haircut at the local barber shop and has shopped at the grocery store, all the while speaking to 20 people. It just snowballs from there, by the next day you hear about your ‘wine cellar’ from the local shopkeeper!

My point is not about how to secretly build bunkers; it’s about making trusted friends that will provide you with valuable intel one day. It’s how to hide in plain sight and assimilate yourself into the local culture so that you’re not news around town every time the ‘new guy’ does something. Like those new sneakers that your mom bought you in grade school, the ones that squeeeeeek as you walked down the hallway, yeah, those. Better to put on a pair of old shoes and shuffle around than to make a grand parade of yourself. You can do this simply by meeting as many folks as possible as soon as possible. You can’t go it alone at your retreat and knowing the townspeople is very important especially during a major event. If you hide at your retreat you’ll instantly be labeled an outcast, people in small towns like knowing who you are (for better or worse of course) and hiding out will not help you learn small but very important details about your locale.

Here is an example: In my locale just try and have anything done during the first two weeks of Elk Season, which coincidentally started in Idaho this week. (And I’ll be out today). When I first moved here I had more than one contractor tell me he wouldn’t do the job for double the estimate, so it’s apparent that the locals here take hunting very seriously. Join a local volunteer service (Fire Department, EMS, et cetera), go get a part time job doing some work around town, soon nobody will care two shakes about what you’re doing, the talk will be all about the ‘new guy’ and what’s happening over there. Remember, good neighbors become instant LP/OPs during times of peril. Treat them right. Just make sure you’re at the end of the road and on top of the hill! To keep it short, get to know everyone, make friends and a lot of them. You’ll be very thankful that you’re in the ‘circle of trust’ one day.

Well, like I said, try and get anything done during Elk Season. This explains the brevity of this week’s update. I’m going to go pack my rucksack and clean my rifle. For those of you looking for reviews of different locales on a weekly basis, we’ll be back on track next week. For his Kingdom, – T.S.



Odds ‘n Sods:

By way of SHTF Daily, James Saft of Reuters reports: Americans charge it as Bank of Subprime closes. A collective $909 billion balance on credit cards? ¡Ay Carumba! Meanwhile, we read at The Baltimore Sun: Credit card debt is ready to blow: (Thanks to Hawaiian K. for sending that link.)

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RBS flagged this: Heating Oil Prices To Jump 22 Percent Over Last Winter, Says Energy Department

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RBS also sent us this: Mortgage Lender Thornburg ups estimated loss on loan sales

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I hope that most of you took my long-standing advice on buying silver. I noticed that the spot price topped $13.85 per ounce yesterday. The spot gold zoomed up beyond $752 per ounce–a 27-year high– and less than $100 short of its all-time high in 1980. Meanwhile the US Dollar Index sagged to 78.07. (Below the crucial 78.19 level.) I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Protect yourself from further declines in the dollar by diversifying into precious metals. Physical silver in your personal possession is still your best bet.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"The great enemy of clear language is insincerity. When there is a gap between one’s real and one’s declared aims, one turns as it were instinctively to long words and exhausted idioms, like a cuttlefish spurting out ink." – George Orwell



Note from JWR:

A reminder that the special “six pack sale” for autographed copies of my novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse” will end soon. The sale price of a box of six books is now just $90, postage paid. (Normally they are $22 per copy, but during this sale you get six autographed copies for $90, mailed in a Priority Mail Flat Rate box, sent to anywhere in the Unites States, including APO/FPO addresses.) This sale ends on October 31st. This is your chance to buy some extra copies for gifts.



Letter Re: Advice on Body Armor and Helmets

Mr. Editor:
I have been working on preparedness for my family for five years now, but I realized that there is one area where I’m lacking: body armor. What sort of vest do you recommend, both for concealment-type and for the “worst case” sort of situations? What [protection] “level” vest rating should I get? For home defense in an out-and-out TEOTWAWKI, should I also buy a kevlar helmet? Are used vests worth buying? Which dealers are trustworthy? I live in a suburb of Atlanta [Georgia, USA], but my work frequently takes me downtown to places like Peachtree Plaza. (Downtown Atlanta has a high crime rate.) Thanks, – Peter G.

JWR Replies: In my experience, most survivalists make the mistake of buying Level III body armor, and then rarely wearing it. It is just too heavy for day-to day wear, especially in a hot, humid climate. A vest is useless if it is always hanging in your closet.

My low-budget approach has been to buy two NIJ Level 2 vests for each adult: One that is my size and one that is slightly larger, with an additional trauma plate. A Level 2 vest will stop most handgun bullets (see the NIJ ratings). And a Level 2 vest is fairly comfortable to wear and relatively inconspicuous, even in an office setting, if you pick your clothes carefully. (For example, opaque, loose-fitting shirts and sweaters.) For defending your retreat, both vests can be worn together. Worn in that manner, the two vests will provide a good chance to stop some rifle bullets–even better than a Level 3 vest. If you have a really big budget, you might consider buying both a Level 2 vest and a full coverage high rating (Level 3 or Level 4) military body armor such as Interceptor Body Armor (IBA). With upgrade plates, those vests can easily cost more than $1,000 each. Although I suspect that the prices of both new and used IBA will come down, since it is being made in very large quantities to support OEF and OIF troop deployments.

Used body armor can be worth buying, if you buy from legitimate dealer. There is a surprisingly large number of “low hours” vest one the market, primarily from people that wash out of police academies.

I strongly suggest that you buy at least one and preferably two spare vest carriers (the out fabric shell). That way you can have an extra carrier, so that you can alternate them, for laundering.

Helmets do make sense for defending a retreat. It just takes a moment to put one on. Their cost has come way down in recent years, with the profusion of used USGI kevlar PASGT helmets on the market. I recommend finding the right size PASGT helmet, and then upgrading it with the latest chin strap and perhaps a MICH-type suspension system.

The vendor that I recommend for both vests and helmets is BulletProofME.com. I have been recommending them for years–long before they became a SurvivalBlog advertiser. They have a wide selection, very competitive prices, and they are quite knowledgeable. Most importantly, they are experts at vest and helmet sizing, which is crucial. Presently they are offering a free shipping special for anyone that mentions that they are a SurvivalBlog reader.



Two Letters Re: Bug Out Vehicles

Hi Jim,
More food for thought, this time regarding vehicles. I’m hoping to someday do some expedition type of travel. This link to Expeditions West discusses and rates a few vehicles best suited for the purpose. These are not necessarily for the purpose of getting the family and supplies out of the city, hauling a huge trailer, but are more intended for long cross country unsupported ‘expedition’ type of travel. If I seriously needed to bug out and hide deep in the Yaak [River Valley of western Montana] for example, my restored 1985 short bed Toyota [pickup] with 235/85/16’s would be hard to beat, and hard to follow down narrow forest roads. Not only capable and tough, but also one of the most efficient when it comes to payload verses fuel economy. I would choose this one over more modern ones, but an old Toyota is not for everyone. Fortunately there are brand new choices which are also good.

The Expedition Portal.com discussion board is all about setting up vehicles for serious off roading. These guys are not your typical 4X4er. Big wide tires and snarling V8 engines, or rock crawling is not the topic, but leisurely comfortable travel across all terrains for extended periods is the goal. One can hardly believe the rigs some of these guys have built. Here is one build which could be consider ideal. – Erick

 

James:
This relates to the latest discussion on bug-out vehicles, Isuzu Troopers, diesels, etc. Seems to me, if someone want a bug-out vehicle, the ability to use different types of fuel blends, simplicity, and good parts availability are all important attributes.

I live in a pretty rugged area and have owned many Isuzus – including 4WD mini-trucks and Troopers. The Trooper is pretty rugged as far as the drivetrain goes, but has lousy sheet-metal and frame – and to a degree – poor parts availability. I had several gas and diesel Troopers. Gas models rarely did better than 20 MPG on a flat highway, but my diesel 4WD Trooper consistently got 27 MPG – city or highway – the mileage pretty much stayed the same. My last Trooper was a 1986 with the 2.2 turbo-diesel. I ran it to 320,000 miles until the body/frame fell to pieces due to rust. I still have the engine. Isuzu makes some of the most rugged small diesels in the world – and that’s what is usually running the little refrigerator-units on truck-trailers. I’ve got a 1981 Chevy Chevette with the Isuzu 1.8 diesel – and it gets 48 MPG highway. Also have an 85 Isuzu 4WD mini-truck with the 2.2 diesel and it gets 27 MPG no matter how you drive it. It too has the awful rust problems as the Troopers do.
In regard to newer diesels such as the Ford Excursion with the Navistar (International Harvester) 7.3? Rugged engines, lousy fuel mileage, and too many electronic controls. Ford never made an SUV of any sort with the pre-1994 mechanically controlled diesel setup. Hard to work on, parts are expensive, no net-gain. The Excursion is basically a heavy truck made to look like an SUV.
Many newer diesels with electronic controls will not run on dyed diesel, heating oil, etc. Some that will run, get damaged from it. With older, pre 1995s – you don’t get that problem. My neighbor/farmer recently had a funny experience when he put farm-fuel (dyed) into his new Chevy truck with the Isuzu “Duramax” diesel. It went into “limp mode” and would not go faster than 20 MPH. He had to drain the tank, and put highway-pump diesel back into it.

General Motors is the only U.S. company to ever make a light-weight diesel and install it into a lightweight truck or SUV. Yes, International Harvester sold Scout SUVs (before the acronym SUV was invented) and they used Nissan diesels. I drove two 1979 diesel Scouts for years as service-vehicles for a John Deere dealership. They used 198 cubic inch (3.2 liter) Nissan diesels and were good for 25 MPG highway. They were rugged vehicles with lousy sheet metal and lousy handling.
There were a few other diesel “oddballs” but not offered in 4WD. Dodge offered a full-size 2WD, 1/2 ton truck late 70s with a Mitsubishi 6 cylinder diesel. They dropped it after one year. Chevy sold S10 2WD trucks with Isuzu 2.2 diesels, and Ford sold 2WD Rangers with Mazda diesels.

If your fuel of choice is diesel – JP8 military fuel, vegetable oil, heating oil, etc. – and you want a truck that you can easily find parts for – new, used, and cheap – you’d better stick with a pre-1994 Chevy, GMC, Ford, or Dodge (with some lee-way as to year and make). Chevy and GMC are the only ones that made 1/2 ton trucks and SUVs with the diesels. Starting 1982, GM offered 4WD Blazers, and 1/2 ton Suburbans and trucks with the 6.2 diesels. If geared properly – any of them can get 22 MPG highway. My 87 diesel Suburban with the 6.2 made it to 520,000 miles before the engine failed. The 6.2 and later 6.5 engines are basically the same – but for civilian use changed over to problematic electronic controls in 1994. Military models are still using mechanical injection systems.
Ford never made a light truck or SUV with the Navistar diesel. HD 3/4 trucks were sold from 1983 to mid-1994. Mid-1994 the 7.3 diesel got changed over to the Powerstroke – and it uses some electronics and is complicated. The older Ford diesels are very rugged and easy and cheap to work on. Expect around 14 MPG average highway mileage from most – although some do a bit better with proper gearing.

If you want a diesel 4WD truck – the GMs are good for light work and offer good fuel mileage. If you want the truck for heavy work – the Fords or Dodges are much better. And – of those two – nothing compares to the Cummins 5.9 diesel engine that is used in the Dodge trucks. It is extremely rugged – and fuel efficient at the same time. Also, if you want to run questionable fuels, including home-brews of vegetable oils, thin arctic or military diesel, etc. – a diesel that uses an “in-line” injection pump is much more durable than a “rotary” type pump. Dodge-Cummins sold some trucks that use these in-line pumps – while all the others use rotaries.
No matter what you buy and/or build, there is always some compromise. My “ultimate” bug-out vehicle – for the moment – is my 92 Dodge 3/4, ex[tended]-cab, 4WD diesel truck. It consistently gets 21 MPG highway and 17 MPG mixed driving. It will run on many types diesel-type fuels, has amazing torque for heavy pulling, it’s easy to work on, etc. Only negatives are -the Cummins-powered trucks are popular and therefore expensive – even the older trucks with 600,000 miles on them. Also, cheap used parts are not common. My truck has 80 gallons in mounted fuel tanks plus an aux. 55 gallon tank I can stick in with quick-couplers if needed. That gives close to a 3,000 mile cruise-range. I have a slide-on camper for it and can also pull a trailer loaded with equipment. It has an on-board heater that runs on diesel fuel. It will heat the camper and truck cab when the engine is not running, and also work as an engine block heater for cold-weather starting. The camper is hooked to four deep-cycle batteries, a 3000 watt inverter, and has two Kyocera 120 watt solar panels that mount to the roof when parked.

One more comment – if “cheap” is the operative word – you can’t beat the GM diesels. They are found all over – and I have over forty of them sitting in my fields, inside my barns, etc. A diesel 4WD Blazer, Suburban or truck can usually be bought in the price ranges of $200 – $1000. Many don’t have high miles like the Fords and Dodges do – since many of the GMs are light vehicles not used as much for long-haul towing. Since our military still uses the basic GM diesel engine, and had thousands of diesel 1 1/4 ton trucks and 1/2 ton Blazers in the 80s – parts are all over via military surplus.
One example – I recently bought a 1/2 ton, 4WD, 1991 diesel Suburban from the local school district. Runs perfect, has 130K miles on it, and I bought it for $225 on sealed-bid. – John from Central New York



Odds ‘n Sods:

More “ARM Twisting” ahead: It has been widely reported that nearly one trillion dollars worth of adjustable rate mortgages (ARMs) will reset to higher interest rates in the next 18 months. That is nearly 20% of all mortgage loans outstanding. Are the majority of sub-prime borrowers ready for the higher monthly payments? Probably not. So we can expect to see a lot more delinquencies and foreclosures in the next two years. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, a small portion of rural foreclosures may represent a retreat buying opportunity. Monitor the market closely, either through a cooperative agent in your selected retreat area, and/or through Foreclosure.com.

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A recent issue of The Sovereign Society A-Letter noted that the US Dollar Index recently fell “below the 78.19-level – the level it’s managed to hover above since 1992.” When I last checked The USD Index had bounced back up a bit to 78.33. Watch this key indicator closely. It is a barometer for the health of the dollar, and inevitably for our entire economy. Presently, we are standing on a precipice. The bottom is long way down.

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A reader is Sweden mentioned that there is a new Swedish language blog on survivalism, called Systemkollaps. Välkommen!

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Mark A. saw this interesting site on making small batches of steel from iron ore. Mark’s comment: “I hope things don’t get so bad that we’ve got to revert to this technology.”