"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms . . . disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes . . . Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.” – Commonplace Book by Thomas Jefferson borrowing from Cesare Beccaria’s 1764 Dei delitti e delle pene ("On Crimes and Punishments")
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Notes from JWR:
In honor of Patriots Day (April 19th), I’m kicking in something extra to Front Sight’s “Get a Gun” training and gear package offer: Anyone that enrolls between now and Sunday evening will also receive their choice of autographed copies of any of my three books: “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation”, “SurvivalBlog: The Best of the Blog.” or my novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse”. Just forward me your Front Sight order confirmation, along with your snail mail address, and I’ll send you a complimentary autographed book.
Today we present another article for Round 16 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 16 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
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Raising Rabbits for Meat , by Pete C.
In most industrialized countries, including the United States, rabbits are not commonly considered a meat animal. However, before a TEOTWAWKI situation arises, small retreats may seriously want to consider raising rabbits as a reliable source of meat to feed their family, to use as barter or charity.
Rabbits are fairly easy to raise which makes them especially adaptive for small retreats (to include urban areas) where limited space for other livestock – cows, hogs, goats, chickens, etc., are just not practical. In addition, many localities may not consider rabbits as live stock since they are often pets. Thus they may be permitted where other animals would not be. If you keep the area clean and the smell down, neighbors might not even know that you have them.
Picking your breed:
Before you purchase your rabbits (or any animal), learn as much as you can about keeping and raising them. Books, breeder magazines, and the internet have a wealth of information on every topic imaginable. So before you jump in, do your homework.
Once you decide to raise rabbits for meat, your most essential requirement is that you get good quality breeding stock, from a reputable breeder and not your local pet store. Purchase the best animals that you can afford, since the quality of future litters will depend upon the parents. I recommend either the Californian or the New Zealand White. Both types are by far the most popular meat rabbits, of a medium-weight (8-11 pounds), have high milk production, frequently procreate and have large litters.
Since rabbits are more suited for temperate or cool climates better than hot ones, those living in warmer climates will need to purchase stock already accustomed to such weather. Also, make sure that your stock rabbits you receive are clean, alert, bright-eyed, with dry ears and nose, and no sores on the feet.
How many to start with?
As with many things, when we get started, we often make mistakes. For those new to rabbits, the most common mistake is starting off with too many at once. A good rule of thumb might be one buck (male) and three does (females). Usually does are larger and can be distinguished by the presence of a dewlap, which is flap of fur below the chin that she pulls to cover her nest during pregnancy.
Rabbit prices can vary considerably depending on quality. A young rabbit could go for next to nothing (family just trying to get rid of a litter) to a few hundred dollars (high quality show rabbit) – do not worry because you want meat rabbits. Most of the time however, you will not find breeding age rabbits, especially for meat. It just does not pay for a breeder to feed a young rabbit to breeding age if he does not plan to use the rabbit for himself. If you do find breeding age meat rabbits, they may be inferior or too old for breeding. It is always best to start with newly weaned rabbits (eight weeks) and care for them for the four months or so, so that they can become acclimated to their new environment prior to breeding age (of six months). You should be able to find decent quality newly weaned rabbits for as little as $15.00 each.
As you become comfortable and more accustomed to the work/time required and what you just got into; should you then increase the size of your herd. Maybe another buck (or two as insurance if something should happen to one of them) and three more does, but no more than a one-to-five ratio.
Disease:
Rabbits are very hardy and have few diseases. However, since most rabbit diseases cannot be cured, it is recommended that the diseased animal be disposed. Removal of one sick animal can also save your entire stock, since disease can spread quickly between the herd. Most rabbit diseases cannot be transmitted to humans. Remember, cleanliness is the single biggest contributor to your stocks health. Clean living space, quality feed and fresh water at all times go a long way.
Space & Housing:
Rabbits are also fairly easy to care for once you have established suitable housing. It can be something very basic (wire-mesh hutch), since cold is no real problem for rabbits. The hutch should however, provide protection from drafts, rain and intense heat. Each rabbit should also have its own hutch (or cage). This way if disease should hit an individual rabbit, it will not easily spread and potentially wipe out your entire herd. Individual cages can be placed in a garage, an empty shed or outdoors (these should be well protected from the weather). Space is often not a problem because cages can be stacked on one another. When comparing rabbits to larger meat animals (cattle, hogs, etc.,) rabbits are much more efficient users of space.
Hutches should be approximately two feet by three feet and at least 18 – 24 inches in height with one inch mesh for the sides (allowing for adequate ventilation) and half-inch mesh for the floors (so that droppings can fall through to the cleaning tray) without catching the rabbits’ feet. Mount cages at a convenient height that will make feeding, cleaning and maintenance easier for you. Clean and disinfect the trays on a regular basis; scrubbing and disinfecting the cages/trays between each litter.
If the hutches are outside, they should be placed in a partially shaded area. The rabbits should always be given their choice between shade and sunshine. If cages do not have shade, they will need to have a double roof in order to help keep the rabbits cool. In addition, canvas or plastic flaps can be added (to be unrolled) to cover the mesh when it rains. The does’ cage should also have space for a nesting box – one foot high by one foot deep and approximately twenty inches wide with a six inch high front panel to help keep newborns inside. The males’ cage should be located between the does’ cages. The Memsahib Adds: I encourage rabbit owners to build (or buy) all metal cages. Wood frames get urine-soaked and eventually become a health hazard. The only wood included should be a resting board (to prevent the rabbits from getting sore legs and feet, and those boards should be changed regularly. Also the Memsahib strongly disagrees with the statement that the rabbits should be in a partially shaded area. Rabbits are much more sensitive to heat than cold. We have always located our pens on the north side of the house in full shade. We have never lost a rabbit to cold, but people who have purchased our rabbits have lost rabbits to heat stroke mid-summer when they have not followed our advice. When the temperature climbs above 90 degrees, we wet down the entire rabbit area to provide cooling through evaporation. Some rabbit fanciers put a block of ice in each pen. Others have fans to cool down the hutches. But these last two methods will be useless, post-TEOTWAWKI.
Food & Water:
Specially prepared rabbit pellets provide the best diet for a breeding herd. Pellets are nutritious, inexpensive (our local feed store sells 50 pound bags for less then $12.50 each), store well and are easy to feed. Of the many different types of pellets, you should get those that are small in size, placing them in a hopper so as to avoid waste. Pellets can be supplemented with tender hay, fresh grass clippings, vegetable greens / roots, apples, apple branches, and weeds such as dandelions, which may be easily available. Just like us, rabbits also require salt. Therefore, you may want to provide your herd salt licks.
To supplement the rabbit’s diet while giving them a bit more exercise (to help maintain a healthy herd), place several rabbits in a movable wire pen (approximately four or five feet square) and placing the pen throughout your yard. As the rabbits eat the fresh grass and weeds to a comfortable height; move the cage to another location. The yard is quietly cut and the rabbits are fed with little effort at all.
As with any animal, clean fresh water is essential. Water bottles may be used when temperatures are above freezing (otherwise metal pans or crockery bowls may be used). Change the water on a daily basis. A doe and her litter may drink as much as one gallon of water per day.
[In the Memsahib’s experience mature does are too territorial to be placed in such a confined area. This would work with littermates of the same sex before they reached sexual maturity. The rabbits should all be put in the pen at the same time.]
Mating & Birth:
Medium-weight rabbits such as the New Zealand White are ready to breed at about six months. Signs to look for in females are restlessness, attempts to join other rabbits, or a tendency to rub her head against the cage. Once a doe reaches maturity, it is fertile almost continuously. Place the female in the male’s cage; where mating should take place almost immediately. If it does not, bring the female back to her own cage and try again within a few days. Never bring the male to the female’s cage. She may see him as an intruder and attack him out of fear.
Approximately twelve days after mating, check for pregnancy by feeling the abdomen area just above the pelvis, trying to locate the small marble-shaped embryos. Make sure that you handle the doe gently and use only light pressure. If you feel nothing, check again in about a week; re-breed if necessary.
[Memsahib I think there is too much chance of injury palpitating the embryos. Though does can mate at any time, conception is improved by mating them when the does’ vulva is swollen and dark. Careful observation will show this happens on a three day cycle. If the doe is not receptive to the buck, she likely will be the following day or the day after. Mating can take place in as little as 15 seconds. But usually the buck and doe will chase each other around the pen for a few minutes. If the doe grunts and stomps her hind feet place her back in her own pen immediately. Be careful that she does not bite. If the doe is receptive she will stop and slightly raise her haunches. If the buck is successful he will suddenly fall off the doe like he has been shot. Watch for this! It can happen very quickly. Return the doe to her own pen. Mating will stimulate ovulation so be certain to bring the doe back to the buck’s pen for a repeat mating eight hours later. In this way you will maximize the size of the litter. Using this method I have never failed to get a doe bred.]
Birth [“kindling”] occurs within 30 days after conception, providing an average number of seven young (called “kits”) per litter, but can range from two to twelve. Since a doe can become pregnant, given the right conditions, by the simple act of mating; she can get pregnant soon after birth. For the animals safety however, it is recommended that each doe have no more then three or four litters per year. Make sure that you place the nesting box (with fresh hay to insure warmth) at least five days before the young are due. The doe will begin pulling fur from her dewlap to line and soften the nest as well.
Most likely, the litter will be born at night. Complications are rare when the doe is in good condition and not over feed. Make sure not to disturbed the new family for a day or two, so that the doe can calm. Then distract the doe with some tempting food so that you can look inside the box; removing any dead or deformed young. Be assured, the doe can take care of her young herself. Therefore, no hand-raising or special equipment, such as incubators or brooders will ever be needed.
Kits are born hairless with their eyes closed. Their fur will begin to grow in by day five or six, after ten to twelve days the kits’ eyes will open. At the age of three weeks their mother will begin to wean them off milk (but will continue to nurse them until they are eight weeks), during this time, the kits will begin to eat hay and pellets becoming accustomed to the feed. Anytime thereafter, from eight to twelve weeks old, they will be ready for butchering, dressing out four to five pounds of meat each.
You may however also decide to keep a few of the new rabbits for more productivity or to replace a buck or doe that you might have lost. Although rabbits can live anywhere from seven to twelve years, having a few extra never hurts.
Slaughtering, skinning and butchering:
These are the tasks that no one really likes, but remember these animals are providing food for your family. Again, there are many resources describing the different methods employed and you are encouraged to read up on each. Each task however, is fairly simple and straight forward. A skilled person can take a rabbit from cage to fryer in under 30 minutes or less. Note: To facilitate butchering, do not feed the rabbit for at least twenty-four hours prior to slaughter. This will help to clear out the animal’s digestive system.
I will discuss one interesting method that was first given to me as instruction of survival during my training at the U.S. Army Ranger School. It will cause the animal the least amount of stress, it is considered quick, painless, and humane.
Begin by holding the rabbit in your arms, petting it to make sure that it is calm. After a few minutes, hold the animal by the hind legs with one hand, placing your thumb of the other hand on the neck just behind the ears and your fingers under the chin. Stretch the animal by pushing down with your thumb; then raise the animal’s head with a quick movement to dislocate the neck.
The next stage may sound strange but will assist you in skinning the carcass. The objective here is to quickly remove the animal’s pelt cleanly, neatly and with minimum damage to either the hide. Since skinning is a skill that requires experience; I will explain what I call the “pen method.” For this, make sure that you have your black US Government Skillcraft pen disassembled and on hand, as you will need it.
With your skinning knife, make your first incision small on one of the back legs just below the hock (insert the blade under the skin so that only the hide gets cut). Now take the pen placing the silver tip in the incision, between the hide and flesh. With the half-pen sticking out, blow hard into the opening. The forced in air will go between the hide and flesh separating the two, making the rabbit the size of a basketball. (This same method can also be used on chickens, producing a skinless bird, no plucking required).
Use your knife a second time to increase the first incision by cutting around the rest of the leg. Do the same thing on the other leg. A cut is then made along the inside of the back legs from one foot to the base of the tail; continue the incision to the other leg. The hide can now be easily removed by pulling it off like a sweater. There should be little resistance, however if there is any, use the knife to free the hide. The last step is to free the pelt by incising a circle around the neck. The pelt can also be saved to make clothes, used for barter or even charity.
Once the skinning is complete, remove the head so that the carcass can bleed out. Next remove the entrails. To do this, split the body open down the medium line of the belly near the anus to the sternum. Special care should be taken not to nick the gall bladder as this will taint the meat. The entrails are then removed; the kidney and liver can be saved. The sternum is then cut and the lungs, heart and trachea are removed (save the heart as well). Lastly, cut the pubic bone and remove the rectum.
Wash the carcass with cold water, giving it a thorough rinsing to remove stray fur and blood. Drop the carcass in a bucket of cold (ice) water for five minutes. Repeat with a second bucket; helping to further cool the meat. This will complete the bleeding process and making it easier to cut into pieces. Note: Do not leave the carcass in the bucket for more than fifteen minutes since it will absorb water.
Lastly, use your knife to divide the rabbit into serving pieces (usually seven to nine cuts – high in protein/ low in fat). Never use a cleaver so as to avoid leaving bone splinters. You can now bake, boil, fry, roast, salt or smoke your rabbit as you wish. Review your survival cooking library for delicious recipes, and enjoy.
Conclusion:
Since rabbits are fairly inexpensive, have few diseases, multiply quickly and are easy to care for, it is recommended that small retreats with limited space consider raising them as a reliable source of meat. Not only will you be able to feed you family, but help others in need. Remember, as with any new skill, do not wait until a TEOTWAWKI situation arises as the time to learn something new. Good-luck and God Bless!
References:
American Federation of New Zealand Rabbit Breeders
American Rabbit Breeders Association
Professional Rabbit Meat Association
Angier, Bradford. “One Acre and Security“. Willow Creek Press, 2000
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Three Letters Re: Preparedness Considerations for College Students
Dear Jim:
A suggestion for storing preparedness supplies while in college: Get a small self storage unit at a local self-store. I had one all through college, which made it much easier to move from apartment to apartment, as college students often do. It was very reasonably priced.
I made sure it was in a storage facility that actually locks and closes at night. The unit was on the north side of the building, so it did not get as hot as other units. Nowadays, many cities have indoor, climate controlled facilities that are even more secure.
The advantages are that your gear is all in one place, ready to go. I consider the facilities more secure than dwellings. They are certainly more anonymous than dwellings, as no one except who you tell will know anything about your personal business, and what is stored there. And as stated before, it makes moving much easier. – Mark R. in New Mexico
Sir:
My comment on the college student who advises petroleum geologist as a post-TEOTWAWKI career and advises against anything to do with electricity. My advice would be the opposite. Anything to do with oil requires a huge infrastructure of refineries, financial institutions et cetera, while small hydro, wind and solar will still be going and still viable. The current production output dictates that there will be electric heaters, motors, computers etc available and anyone who can make or keep them operational will be in demand. I live in an area where almost all of the current production is hydro and because the plants are so old (50-90 years) they would still operating, especially small ones in out of the way places that are either not on the grid now or can be configured to run off the grid. – Karen L.
Hi –
Regarding Sam’s recent comments to avoid any career involving a computer, I believe that to be unwise advice. As with any career choice, there are sub-specialties within a given field that can be very lucrative. I’ve been an I.T. security professional for over 15 years, and I can say firsthand that choosing anything to do with networks or better yet information assurance and security would be a very, very wise choice.
Demand for skilled, intelligent computer and network security professionals is at an all-time high, and is increasing steadily. Further, the quality of the people graduating and the quality of those who have been in I.T. for 3 years or more is steadily decreasing. This is creating a “perfect storm” of high demand and low supply which translates directly into increased income, basically allowing a skilled I.T. security pro to name their price. On my team alone we have had two openings that we cannot fill and we’ve been interviewing so-called candidates (I use the term loosely since these folks barely qualified at any level) for months.
Information security is an even better choice if, like Sam and many others, you subscribe to the long, slow decline theory rather than the cataclysmic event theory of preparedness. As society slowly disintegrates, the demand for information security pros by large corporations, governments and even well-to-do individuals will only increase. People and companies will always want to make money…think of the TV series “Jericho” to see what I mean.
The trick is to keep your skills and training up to date, and to keep yourself from getting locked into any one position or company (or even geographical location) for any length of time. Stay mobile…a “hired gun” or troubleshooter, for example. A solid information security pro can easily command a salary in the $100,000-$200,000 range even in the Midwest. With the right combination of certifications, experience, and skills, a good pro can make even more working for a large company or law firm on the coasts, in the South, or even overseas.
A frugal prepper working as an infosys security pro for 3-5 years or so could sock away a serious amount of money, more than enough to buy a sizable chunk of productive land outright and stock it with everything needed to go off the grid. The point is not to over-react to what you think will happen…leverage your skills to make as much income as possible while you can, live well below your means, and use the difference to launch and establish the lifestyle you really want.
Another group in the I.T. industry that is in high demand are the business continuity and disaster recovery specialists, as well as facilities management professionals. Again, as things get worse in our society, the demand for people who can help ensure business continuity (and business security) for a large corporation can make a very respectable salary. In my experience, companies like GE, Proctor&Gamble, Wal-Mart, pharmaceutical companies, et cetera will do everything they can to keep making money no matter what, even if it looks like the world is ending, and they will pay handsomely for people who can help them do it. – JT
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Across Globe, Empty Bellies Bring Rising Anger (A hat tip to Neil for that link.)
o o o
o o o
Felix D. suggested reading an interview with Lee Clarke, the author of the book “Worst Cases.”
o o o
A piece by Jay Taylor, posted over at Gold-Eagle: Economist Walter Williams Sees Hyperinflation As Early As 2010
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"I, John Robbins, being of lawful Age, do Testifye and say, that on the Nineteenth Instant, the Company under the Command of Captain John Parker, being drawn up (sometime before sun Rise) on the Green or Common, and I being in the front Rank, there suddenly appear’d a Number of the Kings Troops, about a Thousand, as I thought, at the distance of about 60 or 70 yards from us Huzzaing, and on a quick pace towards us, with three Officers in their front on Horse Back, and on full Gallop towards us, the foremost of which cryed, throw down your Arms ye Villains, ye Rebels! upon which said Company Dispersing, the foremost of the three Officers order’d their Men, saying, fire, by God, fire! at which Moment we received a very heavy and close fire from them, at which Instant, being wounded, I fell, and several of our men were shot Dead by one volley. Captain Parker’s men, I believe, had not then fired a Gun." – Militiaman John Robbins’ sworn statement, 24 April 1775, regarding the events of April 19, 1775, in Lexington, Massachusetts
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Notes from JWR:
The following was forwarded by SurvivalBlog reader:
“I pledge, in honor of the late Charlton Heston, that if I receive any funds from the US Government’s economic stimulus rebate program that I will spend the money on guns and ammo.” (Pass it on.) The only thing that I’d add to that is firearms training.
Today we present another article for Round 16 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 16 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
Preparedness Considerations for College Students, by Sam
I am presently a sophomore at a small, private, liberal arts college, in the northeastern United States. First, I will start with the important criteria [for survivalists] in choosing a college (after the decision of a major and program you want to be in), which I followed in High School three years ago:
1. Do not choose a school in a heavily urbanized/suburbanized area.
2. Choose a school in a small city or town, ideally with less than 50,000 people and ample farming in the region. (places like Ithaca New York, Burlington Vermont, Amherst Massachusetts, and other small-city sized college towns, their population increases significantly when school is in session and should be avoided.)
3. Look over the area around the school. If it looks bad, it probably is.
4. Look at the local crime rate, economy, etc.
5. After the admissions tour, walk around the campus on your own with whoever you are touring with (Parent, Friend, etc.) and talk to students. The admissions department is excellent at making a college appear better than it actually is.
6. Drive around the city/town where the college is located and see how it feels.
7. If you are in a state like Utah, see what the school’s policy is on weapons, do this by reviewing the handbook. Even if there is a weapons ban on campus, there are ways around this.
8. The school handbook, should also have information about crimes committed on campus. This is legally required under the Crime Awareness and Campus Security Act of 1990. If the information is not found, it can be located online.
9. If the school is a public school, you probably have the same rights about searches by police and school officials as a regular citizen. [JWR Adds: Check the local and state laws,as well as the school’s policies.] At many private schools your room can be fully searched at any time for any reason. In fact, I signed an agreement of full understanding and giving the school greater rights to search because I live on an “alcohol and tobacco free” floor.
Once one is at school, there are some things that can be done for the sake of preparedness. Sterilite or Rubbermaid plastic storage containers that are opaque and have lockable handles (such as these) can be used to store food, bug-out gear, etc. They blend in perfectly with college settings and do not stand out, I have one large container with my BOB, winter weight sleeping bag, hunting gear, food, and weather specific clothing. If I had to, I could carry it down seven fights of stairs to my SUV and be out of the city with 10 minutes warning. There are a few places that it can be stored. I keep the main storage bin in open sight, two other bins are on top of it and I use them as a table for my shower stuff. If I didn’t have my bed bunked, I would have my bed up on cinder blocks and store them under the bed. No one will second guess storage containers in a college setting.
Weapons are banned from almost every college campus. A weapon is generally defined as anything that can be dangerous to another person or look dangerous. My school has banned: airsoft guns, BB guns, air rifles, paintball guns, all knives of any type, bows, crossbows, machetes, swords, guns, disassembled guns, guns that are incapable of firing ammunition, all replicas of any weapons. One way around this is fairly simple if you’ve got a car, just park your car on public property, such as street curbside. I have had friends that hunt leave their hunting rifles/shotguns, bows, etc. in their truck/car. In some states this is illegal, and even if not illegal, is very risky because a car cannot be secured. Disclaimer: This is extremely risky. Even if the gun is a locked in a bolted-down container, since the entire vehicle could be stolen. It might also be illegal in some states or localities. It would be better to live in an apartment off campus to circumvent any laws or policy restrictions about guns on campus entirely. However, some schools require that all students live on campus. Living on campus for a certain time period (freshman year) is required on many campuses.
One important thing is that one must have a plan to get home or to a more permanent location. College campuses will be less-self sufficient than even someone living in a condo in New York City. Dormitory dining halls bring in workers from the surrounding area to make the food for the college. If the Schumer Hits the Fan, these people will not come to work, and if they do it will be most likely to take food for themselves. Forget about growing food on the grounds of campus. It is naive to think that some else wouldn’t steal it. It is prudent to live within half a tank of gas driving distance to home or a retreat location and have alternative routes. I live several hundred miles from home and must cross the Hudson River, Connecticut River, and many other choke points that will be filled with the Golden Horde and/or are in urban areas because of the interstate highway system. I have planned accordingly, and have extended family members who own a farm that live within 50 miles. I can walk there if I must, but there are numerous alternate routes that I have scouted.
Having a car at college is very important if one’s finances allow for it. I am fortunate enough to have a father who provides a car and fully maintains it. I’m not going to go into much depth about a car, because that is a subject in itself for another article. Basically, an SUV is preferable because it allows for being comfortable when driving places with friends, carrying more stuff for moving into and out of school every year, and it is generally a good BOV compared to passenger cars. They also blend in with other vehicles in most parts of the country. If you’ve got control over the type (all this is from my experience), try to avoid any luxury brand SUV, it rubs people the wrong way to see a late teen/early 20something driving a car that was clearly expensive, agitates the population around the school, gives people the wrong judgment of you as a person, stands out to people that you want to ignore you, and will stand out like a sore thumb when moving to the retreat location.
Socially at college, avoid drinking alcohol. Many drink in their freshman year, but over time those who continue drinking will prove them to be morally bankrupt individuals, and just because “everyone does it”, it does not make it right. It is a colossal waste of money, and time. It is not Christian (if that is how you are inclined), and can lead to leaks of information. Alcohol just leads to terrible decisions, such as compromising OPSEC, and should be avoided. I no longer drink at all, mainly for religious reasons, but also common sense reasons. It is unhealthy and a waste of time.
Keeping religion in the picture at college is also important. I go to a secular school, but continue to maintain Christian lifestyle, more so now than any time before in my life, being exposed to social liberalism and people who lack morals tends to make one realize how lucky they are and to offer prayer for those who have not come to Christ. Religiously affiliated colleges in the northeast tend to be just as socially liberal as secular schools. In my experience, being at school has made me more religious.
Additionally, in regards to friends at college, it is important, at least in my experience, to be living in a [dormitory] building that has a reputation of being academic in nature. I made most of my friends this way, getting along with your roommate is very important. Going to school at a small campus is very cliquish, so one may find it to be easier to find quieter/like minded students on a small campus. One mention about cliques is that drama will probably develop. Ignore it. I am the middleman in half a dozen instances of drama between my various groups of friends. It is petty. Just try to make people understand that there are more important things in life.
If your school offers Army ROTC courses, enroll in the courses for the minimum of two years that do not require a commitment. Sophomores are now being taught the combat life saver course and given other types of training. A career in the military is a viable alternative, they will pay for tuition, and give out monthly stipends, and issue participants gear on loan. I was enrolled in ROTC for one year, and highly recommend it. am planning on joining Army or Air Force ROTC wherever I go to graduate school and serving in the reserves. [JWR Adds: In my experience, the ROTC Basic Camp, which is available without any contractual obligation, is much more valuable for learning “hands-on” survival skills than the ROTC classroom instruction, which emphasizes theory and military history.]
Try to spend as little money off of your meal card as possible. At the end of every semester spend the surplus down on items the school sells at the store. I have been able to buy about a week’s worth of food this way each semester. It just keeps piling up at home, obviously, buy food that is energy dense and that has a long shelf life.
Work hard, academically. I slacked during my freshman year and could have really boosted my grade point average. The early classes are always easier than the upper level classes and now I am finding myself working twice as hard to make up for the mistake. For the record, I am writing this while I am on break, otherwise I would not have had enough time.
Choosing a major [course of study] is important depending on one’s planned [scenario for] survival. I’m more of a slow-decline Peak Oil, dollar collapse (leading to a further collapse) and general preparedness believer, so I decided on a major accordingly. It is possible to have a major that will give one a career, post-TEOTWAWKI. To name a new professions that will still be around (depending on the severity of the crash) are doctors, writers, dentists, some engineers, merchants, and store owners. Being a petroleum geologist could be very lucrative in a slow-decline peak oil situation. The more specialized a major is, the less career opportunities will be available. Don’t major in anything requiring a computer or electricity, such as electrical engineering, Management Information Systems (MIS), [or fields such as] biology, foreign relations, marketing, history, English, et cetera.
JWR Adds: I guess that things have changed since I was in college in the early 1980s. There was a “no guns on campus” policy, but it was largely ignored. My dorm room often resembled a Peshawar workshop. It was where my shooting buddies would congregate for gun cleaning and for gun assembly. I lost count of the number of M1911s and AR-15s that we parted together in that room. We even had a miniature Unimat lathe in the dorm room for one semester. (It was a Unimat DB200, if I remember correctly.)
Home Invasion Robberies in Argentina, by FerFAL
JWR’s Introductory Note: FerFAL is SurvivalBlog’s volunteer correspondent in Argentina. If you haven’t done so already, be sure to read his Profile. Readers might also be interested in FerFAL’s blog: Surviving in Argentina.
I just got off the phone, after talking with a college friend of mine. We talked about the current situation our country is going through, the food shortages and empty shelves, and how long things will hold on until people get desperate.
As an afterthought she mentioned that some robbers attacked her father and his girlfriend (divorced) while they watched over her recently married sister’s home, while she was on her honeymoon.
I always try to learn as much detail as I can from these situations.
As is currently typical, three armed men intercepted the couple when they arrived to the sister’s house, when they were getting out of the car.
Then, three more guys showed up, each driving a car!
They tied them up, loaded the cars full of the newly-wedded couple’s gifts, everything they had was soon fitted into the cars.
After that, one of the bad guys cut the cable off an appliance, stripped the end of the cable, and threatened to torture them with electric shocks.
There was also some money in the house–about $1,000–and fortunately they didn’t fulfill the threat.
A few thoughts that come to mind:
1) Criminals always seem to attack when entering or exiting your house. Those are the moments when you should be extra careful.
2) Be discreet about what you have. Three cars? They knew about the wedding, the gifts, the new house, etc.
3) Once you are tied up in a chair, there’s no use in wishing you had done something before. If they end up raping or killing your entire family, you can’t go back in time, buy a gun, learn how to use it, and defend yourself and your loved ones. It’s too late.
4) Some people just don’t get it, even when the truth is smeared all over their faces.
Right after telling me this, my friend told me that the best thing to do is surrender, cooperate with the criminals and hope for the best.
She told me that she was worried about me because she knew that I was armed and had the will to shoot if necessary.
I expressed my concerns about the opposite being true regarding her.
5) Three armed guys and three more nearby? Do I really want a six-shot revolver, or even worse, a five-shot one?
The reality around you dictates the kind of weapon you need, and even then… guns are meant to be comforting, not comfortable. That’s one of the few gun maxims I like. – FerFAL
Letter from David in Israel Re: Stocking Up on Matzoh
James
I would first like to wish the Jewish readers of SurvivalBlog a happy and kosher passover. And after that I also want to remind everyone that Saturday night is the start of Passover. Why is this
important? It means that even in many small towns big packages of matzoh will be available often at a closeout price after the seder night. Matzoh (an unleavened flour cracker) is a good ready to eat food that lasts for several years in the sealed box. If you wonder what good wheat flour crackers are just look online for the recipes we have come up with over the millennia. Next year in Jerusalem! – David in Israel
Two Letters Re: Automated Parking Garages
Sir,
Regarding a recent item in your blog about robotic parking facilities: These modern “conveniences” can be shut down by more than just a power outage. Here’s a link to a news storey about a robotic parking facility in Hoboken, New Jersey which was effectively shut down for about a week during a contract dispute between the city and the software company. To make a long story short: The city owned the facility, while the company owned the rights to the software which ran it. When the city opted not to renew their contract with the company, the parking robot suddenly stopped functioning. Cheers, – B-Boy
Jim:
Your warning comes a little too late. According to an AutoBlog article, they’re in place in many of our big cities, including San Francisco, Seattle et cetera. – Eric S.
Odds ‘n Sods:
Subprime defaults put the FHA in the poorhouse. Look for further growth in the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB).
o o o
Risk of Nuclear Attack on U.S. Rises
o o o
Mike in Illinois suggested these two articles from New Scientist: Why the demise of civilisation may be inevitable and Will a pandemic bring down civilisation?
o o o
The WRSA has a Basic Rifle Marksmanship Course scheduled for April 26-27 in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. OBTW, the WRSA is kindly donating paid admissions to any WRSA shooting event for just the first two people that respond and pledge to become SurvivalBlog 10 Cent Challenge subscribers, or that pledge to renew their existing subscription for another year. These “SurvivalBlog scholarships” are valued at $150 each, or it can be used to drop the price of a group admission per the WRSA’s “25% off your total, buddy system” pricing. Example: 1 SurvivalBlog scholarship + $75 more gets two people admitted, or 1 SurvivalBlog scholarship + $187.50 gets three admitted. E-mail the WRSA for details.
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“Freedom is not a gift from heaven. It has to be fought for every day.” – Simon Wiesenthal
Notes from JWR:
Today we present another article for Round 16 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 16 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
You may remember B.H. as one of the first winners of the SurvivalBlog writing contest, in late 2005.
Safe Food Handling, by B.H. in Western Washington
Safe food handling is critical for a healthy life in both good and bad times. As a former restaurant manager, I can tell you food safety or customer safety was priority number one. It’s hard to make money when you’ve killed your customers, which is the alternative to safe food handling. Death or severe illness is the unforgiving consequence to food borne illness. Food borne illnesses doesn’t just happen in restaurants it happens everywhere food is handled and prepared whether it’s during decadent affluence or full scale TEOTWAWKI.
Please don’t confuse food poisoning with food borne illnesses. Chemicals, bacteria, or certain foods like wild poisonous mushrooms and berries cause food poisoning. Germs that grow in food or in our bodies cause food borne infections. Symptoms of food borne infections include headache, fever, stomachache, vomiting and diarrhea. These symptoms can start showing in just a few hours or take several weeks to appear. The CDC estimates that every year 76 million Americans get sick and nearly 5,000 die each year from food borne illnesses.
Some groups of people are more susceptible to food borne illness. Health professionals recognize the following groups:
Younger than 5 years old
Older than 65 years old
Pregnant
Immune-compromised (due to AIDS, cancer, diabetes, certain medications, or other conditions) These “at risk: groups are described with the acronym YOPI.
These groups are highly susceptible and usually get sick more often or have more severe symptoms. Also some foods are more likely to cause food borne illness in YOPI. These foods include the following:
Unpasteurized milk or juices
Raw sprouts
Undercooked eggs
Raw oysters
Undercooked meats
Facilities that cater to YOPI such as nursing homes, hospitals, child-care centers, and adult care homes have additional food safety requirements. If you are thinking of producing foods products for sale or take care of others during hard times, then additional research in warranted for consumer safety. Right now it is illegal to sell unpasteurized dairy products but I’ve heard of some families buying fresh milk as “pig feed” for consumption. Another case of ingenuity over the nanny state.
Hazards In Food
The obvious goal of food safety is to prevent the hazards that cause food borne illness or injury. Most of the hazards in foods are things you cannot taste, see or even smell. Injury or illness can be caused by three types of food borne hazards in food and drink. They are:
Physical Hard or soft objects like glass or fingernails
Chemical Naturally occurring or added substances like cleaning agents
Biological Germs like parasites, viruses and bacteria
Physical hazards occur because of unsafe food handling practices or contamination. Physical contamination can be prevented by:
Looking closely at the foods you prepare
Washing fruits and vegetables carefully
Keeping your food prep area clear of things that can fall into the food
Chemical hazards like soaps, cleaners, sanitizers and pesticides must be stored away from food, food prep areas and utensils. If you must store chemicals in the kitchen area put them on the lowest shelf below food or food contact surfaces so nothing can drip onto food. All chemical containers should be marked and labeled.
Never use a container as a food or beverage storage container if it previously was used to store chemicals. Sometimes it helps to say the obvious.
How to avoid chemical contamination:
Store all chemicals below food and prep areas
Label all chemical containers
Use only food grade approved containers to store food
Don’t use galvanized containers, since zinc coatings can be harmful.
Make sure all your food is covered and protected when cleaning
Biological contamination is the world of germs like bacteria, parasites and viruses.
Parasites Tiny worms that live in Pork, Fish and meats that can be killed if frozen or cooked to the right temperatures. Parasites are also found I contaminated water.
Safety measures for parasites:
Cook all meat, pork and fish to proper temps
Filter or treat water before consuming or cooking
Eat sushi at your own risk
Viruses Viruses are very common-like the common cold, chicken pox or influenza and freezing don’t destroy them. The disgusting thing is that these viruses are usually transmitted by the fecal-oral route when a food handler doesn’t wash their hands correctly or at all. Hepatitis A and the Novovirus are two common viruses transmitted in this fashion.
Safety measures for viruses:
Don’t handle or prep when you have diarrhea, fever or have been vomiting
Wash your hands twice after using the toilet. Once I the bathroom and again in the food prep area. Hand washing should be hot water, soap and long enough to sing “Happy Birthday”
Use disposable gloves or utensils whenever possible-especially ready-to-eat foods
Bacteria
The ever present big-bad bacteria. This is the most predominant of food borne illnesses. Unlike viruses, bacteria can actually grow in foods and cause food to spoil or cause food borne illness. It is critical to focus on time, temperature and cleanliness when preparing food. Even though bacteria are everywhere they tend to prosper in certain foods. These foods are called Potentially Hazardous Foods.
Potentially Hazardous Foods
Animal Products
Meat, fish, poultry, seafood and eggs
Dairy products
Cooked Starches
Cooked Rice, beans, pasta and potatoes
Fruits and Vegetables
Cooked Vegetables
Cut melons
Sprouts (bean and alfalfa sprouts)
Tofu
Garlic and Herbs bottled in oil
Safety measures for protection from bacteria:
Keep potentially hazardous foods out of the danger zone (41-140 degrees F)
Don’t work with food when you are ill (diarrhea, vomiting or fever)
Wash hands twice after using the restroom
Wash, rinse and sanitize all utensils used for food prep
Use gloves and utensils when working with ready-to-eat foods
Food Safety Rules
Rule 1: Food handlers must have good personal hygiene
Rule 2: Food must be cooked and held at correct temperatures
Rule 3: Prevent cross-contamination when preparing and storing food
Rule 1: Food handlers must have good personal hygiene from hand washing to keeping fingernails trimmed for cleanliness. The most likely time for contamination is the following:
After using the restroom
After handling garbage or dirty dishes
After handling raw meat, fish or poultry
After eating or smoking
After sneezing, coughing, or blowing your nose
After handling animals or using chemicals
Note: Using hand sanitizer is not an acceptable substitute for hand washing.
Rule 2: Food must be cooked and held at correct temperatures that avoid the danger zone of 40-140 degrees F. Every kitchen should have two or more metal stem thermometers and you should know how to use it and calibrate it. Food that sits in the danger zone quickly produces harmful levels of bacteria and toxins that can make you sick.
Potentially hazardous food may be at room temperature for up to 2 Hours while you are preparing it. The basic procedure is to keep cold food cold and hot food hot while in the preparation stage.
Note: If food has been left out at room temp or you don’t know long it’s been in the danger zone—Throw it out!! When it doubt—Throw it out!!
Thermometers are an essential tool for every kitchen just like a stove or oven. There are two types of thermometers:
Metal Stem Thermometer Metal stem with dial face-can be calibrated and must stay in food for 20 seconds to get accurate reading.
Digital Thermometer Very accurate especially for thin meats like hamburger patties. Downside:: it is an electronic device.
Using a thermometer:
Calibrate by setting into glass of water with crushed ice-should read 32 degrees. If it doesn’t, then adjust nut underneath until needle hits 32
Make sure the stem is clean and sanitized before and after each use
Always take reading at the thickest part of the food which is usually in the center
Hold stem for several seconds until reading holds steady
The best way to kill germs is to cook food to the right temperature in the right amount of time. Cooking temps depend on the type of food, prep procedures and cooking time.
Cooking with a microwave deserves a special warning. Microwaves cook food unevenly so if you cook raw animal products you must cook to 165 degrees, keep it most and covered and stir it at least once to make sure all of it hits 165 degrees. This applies to re-heating food also.
Hot Holding food (140 degrees F or hotter) is the holding hot food at service temperature for extended periods of time. Cooking doesn’t kill all bacteria so cooked potentially hazardous food must be kept hot until served. If the temp falls into the danger zone bacteria can begin to multiply, thus quickly contaminating the food. Anything used to hold food at 140 degrees or higher must be warmed up to temp prior to putting food into it.
Tips for keeping hot food hot:
Never mix cold foods with cooked foods
Cover pans
Stir food often to distribute the heat
Reheating food that is cooked and properly cooled can be re-heated to any temp if served and eating immediately. Cold food that will be hot held needs to be reheated to 165 degrees in under two hours or more quickly.
Cooking Temperatures
Foods that need to be cooked to 165 degrees F (for 15 seconds):
Poultry-Chicken, Turkey, Waterfowl, all game birds
Stuffed foods and stuffing
Casseroles
All raw animal products cooked in a microwave
All reheated potentially hazardous foods
Foods that need to be cooked to 155 degrees F (for 15 seconds):
Hamburger
Sausage
All ground meats
Foods that need to be cooked to 145 degrees F (for 15 seconds):
Fish
Beef
Eggs
Pork
Foods that need to be cooked to 140 degrees F (for 15 seconds):
Packaged ready-to-eat foods (canned chili/hot dogs) heated for hot holding
Vegetables that will be hot held
Beef and Pork roasts require additional cooking requirements-specifically making sure internal temp of pork reaches 150 degrees F. Cooling Foods
Keeping cold foods cold is the key to food safety at the lower end of the temp spectrum. Again the danger zone is 40 degrees to 140 degrees F. Cold food must be kept at 41 degrees F or colder. If using ice make sure the ice surrounds the food to the top level of the food. Cold salads made from food at room temp must be lowered to 41 degrees F or lower within 4 hours. Try pre-chilling all ingredients before making cold salads to expedite the process.
Thawing foods need special care to prevent bacteria from growing on the outside of food while the inside remains frozen. Here are three methods for thawing:
Submerge food under cold running water-70 degrees or colder until thawed
Put frozen foods into the refrigerator for the safest method—bottom shelf
Thaw during cooking process or in the microwave—small portions only
Cooling foods is the riskiest step in food preparation because bacteria grows very quickly in cooling food. The goal is to get the food cooled through the danger zone as quickly as possible. It’s also important to take cooling seriously since certain bacteria produce poisons that won’t be destroyed during reheating.
The following three cooling methods are approved in Washington State and are very similar to requirements in corporate restaurant chains nationwide. (My experience was with Brinker International-Chili’s Grill & Bar in Washington & Alabama–great standards!)
Three Methods for cooling:
1. Shallow Pan Method (food no deeper than 2 inches)
2. Size reduction (cutting solid foods into smaller pieces)
3. Time and Temperature monitored (forcing food to cool in short amount of time)
Cooling Method 1: Shallow Pan is basically taking large quantities of food and dividing it into several smaller and shallow pans for cooling. Works best for chili, rice, refried beans, potatoes, casseroles, ground meat and meatloaf.
Steps for shallow pan method:
1. Put hot food into shallow pans no more than 2 inches deep
2. Put pans onto top shelf of refrigerator to cool and keep food from dripping into it
3. Make sure air can move around pans so don’t stack or cover
4. Only cover food when temp reaches 41 degrees F or less
Cooling Method 2: Size reduction is simply cutting large pieces into smaller pieces for
Cooling. This method works best for large whole food like roasts, turkey or ham. Not recommended for ground meats.
Steps for size reduction method:
1. Cut large meat into chunks no larger than 4 inches
2. Put onto tray for cooling. No pieces should be touching
3. Put pans onto top shelf of refrigerator to cool and keep food from dripping into it
4. Make sure air can move around pans so don’t stack or cover
5. Only cover food when temp reaches 41 degrees F or less
Cooling Method 3: Time and Temperature Monitored is a 2 step process that must be closely watched or not used.
Step 1: Food must cool down from 140 degrees F to 70 degrees F in 2 hours.
Step 2: Food must finish cooling to 41 degrees F or less within 6 hours.
For example: The ice bath method is very suitable for sauces, gravy and soups. Just drop hot pot of food into ice water bath right below the edge of the pot. Stir often to facilitate the cooling throughout the food. You will need to keep adding ice as it cools and melts ice in the water. Make sure it cools down to 70 degrees F in 2 hours and under 41 degrees F within 6 hours. Cover and put in the fridge once it cools.
Preventing Cross Contamination
Cross Contamination is the spread of bacteria from raw meat onto other foods. The main source of cross contamination is when blood or juice from raw meat gets onto the surfaces of utensils, cutting boards, countertop and hands and then gets onto ready to eat foods.
The obvious: Keep raw meat away from other food.
Tips to avoid cross contamination:
Wash and sanitize all surfaces and utensils that contact raw meat
Wash hands after touching raw meat
Prep raw meat away from other foods
Designate a separate cutting board just for raw meat
Store raw meat below all other foods in fridge and freezer
Store meats with higher cooking temp below meats with lower cooking temp
(Raw chicken juice on fish doesn’t get killed at 145 degrees F)
Wash Cycle is a four-step process to practice when cleaning and sanitizing. The 4 steps are as follows:
1. Wash Hot Water and soap to remove food particles.
2. Rinse Clean and hot
3. Sanitize soak dishes in warm water with measured amount of sanitizer
4. Air Dry Dishcloths can contaminate clean dishes.
Some folks refer to this as the 3-sink system with dish rack as step four.
Sanitizer: 1 teaspoon unscented chlorine bleach with 1 gallon of cool water
This concludes the formal food borne illness information that you can basically receive from any County Health Department. Health departments hold two-hour classes for less than $20 to review and test over this information. Those who pass receive a food handler’s permit and you receive all this info in a handy booklet, which you should keep with your cookbooks. I think the class is worth every penny just on the cool horror stories they tell from doing restaurant inspections. It will raise the hair on your neck. Yuck!
Application in Preparedness
Home is where the application of this information is vital. Putting these standards into practice is very easy. Even if you have a single sink in the kitchen you can meet these standards. My brother and I insist on a three-sink system when at hunting camp after everyone got the runs from soap residue on the utensils.
An easy three-sink bug out system looks like this:
Three plastic dish tubs from Wal-Mart ($3)
Folding camp dish rack ($3)
Small Bottle of bleach and dish soap ($3)
Scrub sponge, wash cloth and dish towel ($3)
Put all items into the first tub and stack onto other two tubs. Everything should sit inside tubs and then inside plastic bag for easy grab and carry.
I’ve taken it a step further and I have a Rubbermaid bin with all kitchen items for camp kitchen. Tubs with all items above inside and next to them are several small Rubbermaid bins. One with silverware, one with spices, one with knives, one with serving and cooking utensils and even one with small cookbooks inside. Underneath all that is flat pan, frying pan and Dutch oven. I have to keep a separate large bin for rest of Dutch oven cookware for weight distribution and 2nd priority pile for rapid relocate.
In a less than decadent world we will be preparing a lot more of our food and game. Game processing should be staged for safety also. Gut and field dress away from anything else, making sure not to perforate intestines and soil meat. Keep a bucket of sanitizer when butchering and stage process to separate cutting from rinsing and wrapping.
I try to thaw meat while it’s in a pan marinating—”two birds with one stone”. Saltiness of the marinade with cold temps almost assures of zero bacterial growth while thawing.
Hunting camp can be a perilous place when guys who never do more than fire up the grill start preparing meals for several days. I’ve learned to avoid the perils of “Montezuma’s Revenge” by preparing all the meals at home first. Pre-cooking and storing in Ziploc bags makes camp cooking easy. Pasta cooked and bagged, chili opened and bagged, all veggies and fruit diced, cut and bagged. To heat up food just heat up water. For example:
Take steaks or meat out of package and put into large Ziploc with marinade for one day then freeze flat. Replaces same amount of ice and is ready to cook on day 3 or 4 when thawed.
Freeze cooked pasta with marinara and meatballs. Day 2 meal just drop bag into boiling water and dinner is ready.
Cooking in Ziploc bags means no dishes to clean except utensils and hot water is already to go. Assuming your using mostly paper plates.
Pre-cutting and bagging vegetables means less time cooking and more time with Cousin George Dickel and family hunting lies around the fire. Dump cut veggies, venison, 2 cups wine, 2 cups water and 2 packs of stew seasoning into Dutch oven and three hours later dinner is done.
All of these ideas save time, energy and avoid food borne illness. You should plan on cooking your food to well done to avoid possible danger during a true survival situation. Diarrhea in the field can be as deadly as “Mutant Zombies” or a well-intentioned bureaucrat.
In closing, I highly recommend sitting through a county health department class on food borne illness. Two hours on a weeknight could save your life or someone else’s. I hope this helps keep you and your families safer. I’ll get back to you when I figure out how to make nachos over the campfire. Straight Ahead! – B.H. in Western Washington (soon to be in north Idaho)