Odds ‘n Sods:

Diesel thieves wreak havoc on California farmers

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Yishai found us this, by way of Glenn Reynolds over at Instapundit: If GPS Gets Knocked Out, the government has a backup plan.

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I missed this news article when it was posted a couple of weeks ago: Home Foreclosures: Crisis Is Only Getting Deeper. More recently, we’ve read: Bernanke urges more action to stem home foreclosure crisis

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Some analysis by Frank Barbera: Return of the Credit Crisis – Did It Ever Leave? We still haven’t seen the full impact on the banking sector. And we may yet experience some bank runs in the US.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“I say that the Second Amendment doesn’t allow for exceptions — or else it would have read that the right “to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed, unless Congress chooses otherwise.” And because there are no exceptions, I disagree with my fellow panelists who say the existing gun laws should be enforced. Those laws are unconstitutional [and] wrong — because they put you at a disadvantage to armed criminals, to whom the laws are no inconvenience.” – Harry Browne, August 8, 2000, speaking at a Second Amendment rally in Arkansas



Notes from JWR:

I was pleased to hear that SurvivalBlog.com got fair treatment in a CNN television news special segment about survivalism that aired on Thursday.

The following is another article for Round 17 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 17 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



Alternatives to Firearms for Defense and Hunting in a Survival Situation, by Bill H.

While in a modern setting there is no replacement for a well maintained firearm, individuals who read Survival Blog are well aware that the terms “Modern”, “Optimal” and “Best Case” are unlikely to apply in the not so distant future. Most tools can serve more than one purpose. A large Crescent wrench can be used as an impromptu hammer for example. Likewise your .308 battle rifle could be used to hunt rabbits, but it has several drawbacks to be being used in such a way. However just as a proper tool kit has a hammer as well as a Crescent wrench, a well-stocked retreat has a .308 (or similar rifle) as well as an alternative way to hunt small game. Keeping that in mind a bit of research into alternative weapons coupled with some practice would be advisable for those who wish to provide for and protect their families.

This article is in no way meant to be a comprehensive study of these alternatives but rather a starting point or overview of some of these possibilities. We will discuss modern versions of ancient weapons as well as an improvised archaic weapon. The important thing is to look at the possibilities and outside what is accepted. These tools may not be as efficient as a modern firearm or as easy to learn as a single shot rifle, but are well worth your consideration.

Air guns
We often think of these tools as a kid’s toy, yet the truth is that the technologies of sending a projectile down range by using compressed air has been around since the 15th Century and at one time were made as sniper rifles and even big game rifles for Boar and Bear. Admittedly the air guns available to us are a far cry from those antique products of great craftsman, but they are still worth consideration. The benefits of these tools is that they are as simple to use as a single shot rifle and, depending on the quality, very capable of taking small game. The drawback is that they require specialized maintenance and can be difficult to repair due to the nature of specialized parts.

Air guns are commonly available in three calibers, .177, .20 and .22. Of these three calibers the two most common and in my opinion the 2 worth consideration is the .177 and the .22.
When choosing a caliber keep in mind that the velocity of the projectile plus its mass will translate to its power on impact. For this reason the .22 caliber tends to be, at first glance the best choice. Keep in mind however that the projectiles in this case are lead pellets and a healthy argument can be made for the variety of the .177. BB’s are reusable and when moving at high velocity capable of killing or deterring a variety of pests. Often the addition of a small magnet must be used to enable a quality pellet gun to fire a BBs.

For the purposes of this article the three types of air guns available are CO2, Pump, and Spring Piston. Of the three I suggest that CO2 air guns be discarded immediately. The need for [commercially filled] CO2 cartridges and the relatively low power of these tools make them useful only as training aids and of limited practical use to the survivalist.

Pump guns use a piston to compress a gas and store it in a cylinder. These often are less expensive and are available at a variety of big chain stores. The drawback of these tools I that they must be pumped multiple times to build up a charge and even at their greatest charge are still underpowered.

Spring piston guns use a lever to compress a spring which drives a piston, which in turn provides the compressed air that drives the projectile. This is an efficient and practical tool and is the design that I suggest Research the air guns available to you and make your decision accordingly. RWS and Beeman are the two top manufacturers and both sell rifles capable of over 1,100 fps. Cost for one of these tools can run over $300 but careful shopping can get you a good quality air gun for around $200.

Regardless of your choice make sure that you purchase the proper maintenance equipment and read the owners manual to get the best use from these tools. Treating them like a firearm for anything but safety will quickly lead to disappointment and potentially catastrophic failure. For example the compressed gas from a spring piston air gun can ignite gun oil and the resulting discharge will destroy the gun.

[JWR Adds: It is important that every family have at least one high-power spring-piston air rifle. They are ideal for pest shooting and for low cost indoor target practice. One Internet mail order dealer that I recommend is Pyramid Air. They have a good selection and competitive prices. They are also one of our Affiliate advertisers. We get a little piece of the action when your place an order with any of our affiliates.]

Crossbows
Often romanticized by movies the crossbow seldom performs the way the purchaser had hoped. The nature of the short prod or bow offers a very powerful but short lived energy source. They do not have the accurate range of a bow, yet have the benefit of being able to be left cocked and fired from a prone position. The crossbow is capable of taking large game and has the additional benefit of being able to reuse its ammo. However it is clearly recognized by any observer and as such if seen garner the same attention as a firearm. It is however quiet compared to a firearm and as such for survival hunting can be a good choice.

There are three basic types of crossbows available. The Standard crossbow, the Compound Crossbow and the pistol crossbow. Of these three I find that the pistol crossbow is most commonly a novelty item with very little practical use. Arguments have been made that at up to a 75 lb prod that they are capable of taking small game and have the benefit of being highly portable. I disagree with this reasoning but encourage readers to make up there own mind. At a cost of as little as $20 I found that purchasing one to test then trading it away when I had confirmed my suspicions to be well worth an afternoons diversion.

The compound Crossbow looks quite impressive and the mechanical advantage of the wheels does make the bolt travel faster. The cost for these tools however tends to be quite a bit greater than that of a standard crossbow and the decision on whether the extra cost is worth it depends on your budget. It has the disadvantage of being more difficult to repair than a standard crossbow with more failure points.

The standard Crossbow comes in a variety of designs both modern and archaic. The average poundage is about 150 lbs which is more than enough to hunt medium sized game. Heavier prods, or bows, are available and can increase its capabilities. Repairs to the mechanical aspects are fairly simple and strings can be made just like making a bow string. If the Prod is damaged another can be fabricated using T6 aluminum, fiberglass or even a leaf spring from a small car. Crossbows are available on line for as little as $50 and well worth the investment Repairs

Regardless of the design and strength you choose make sure that you purchase additional strings and a cocking lever to use with it. The cocking lever uses the mechanical advantage of a lever to make cocking the crossbow easier. It also has the added advantage of making the pressure on and provided by the prod evenly on both arms. This is important to increasing the accuracy of the tool. Practice with it and know its limitations. If you work within its limits the crossbow can be a useful addition to your survival tools. [JWR Adds: If you plan to buy a crossbow, do plenty of research before you buy. Many models have inferior designs that exert excessive friction on their bowstrings, leading to their early failure. Some have been known to “eat” their bowstrings in as little as 200 shots!]

Other Bows
There are many books on the subjects of bows and more information than is practical to go over here. Personally I have a compound bow that I use for Hunting, a recurve bow that I use for primitive archery shoots and a couple of fiberglass bows that have been purchased at garage sales. The later are 35 lb bows that I have on hand as trade goods and training tools.

Compound bows are very fast and have the benefit of incorporating a “let off” which allows a heavy poundage bow to be held at full draw for a more accurate aiming. While superior to older style bows they are difficult to repair and replacement parts can be very difficult if not impossible to fabricate.

Traditional bows come in a wide variety of styles including longbows, recurve bows reflex deflex bows and many more. Traditional bows can range in poundage from 15 lbs to well over 100 lbs. When considering a traditional bow consult a local expert. There are many clubs that practice primitive archery and skills from making your own strings to making longbows from scratch are often available for the asking.

No matter what design of bow you choose, make sure to purchase a good supply of arrows and learn the requirements of making your own arrows out of local materials. Practice with this tool and it can help you feed your family.

Slingshots

A modern slingshot uses surgical tubing to propel a projectile down range. These tools are often seen as children’s toys and are overlooked by adults when planning their emergency equipment. The truth is that these tools are extremely useful and capable of devastating force and accuracy. They are capable of taking small game quite readily and with luck can take medium sized game.

As a kid around 14 years old, I often used a “Wrist Rocket” to hunt for squirrel and rabbit. One summer I was out hunting and saw a deer. I decided to practice my stalking and stealthily approached to within 10-15 feet of the deer, who in truth had probably seen me and was unconcerned. In a move typical of a thoughtless adolescent I placed a large glass marble in my slingshot, drew to my cheek and released. The marble struck the deer in the head and it fell to the ground as if poll axed. I ran home and told dad who promptly kicked my sorry rear end all the way back to the deer, made me dress it out, cut it up and pack it out by myself. All the time offering criticisms on my judgment, technique and general intelligence. I learned powerful lessons that day about responsibility and consequences. And while I would not care to have to reproduce taking a deer with a slingshot I learned that it is much more capable than most give it credit for.

I suggest that several of these be acquired and one kept with G.O.O.D. kits. Store each with a bag of marbles and some lead or steel shot. A bit of practice will make this tool an excellent game getter and while not what I would prefer, I would not hesitate to use it as a deterrent against two-legged predator if a firearm option was not available.

[JWR Adds: Used slingshots are often available at garage sales and eBay. Older ones will usually need replacement surgical tubing. This tubing is best bought in bulk. (Again, most reasonably priced on eBay.) Buy a 50+ foot long roll of it. It has umpteen uses, and any excess will be great for barter. It can be used as spring material for various projects, a binding clamp for gluing woodworking projects, Scuba diving spear guns, et cetera.]

The Sling
The sling is an ancient weapon which uses centrifugal force to propel a projectile down range. While this tool takes far more practice than any than those mentioned above it also has the benefit of easily being fabricated, literally from the cloths off ones back. A Google search on “Sling” will provide a large number of web pages to help familiarize the reader with making and employing a sling.

While I do not suggest the sling as a primary alternative weapon I do highly suggest that a bit of experimentation and familiarization would be very useful if the balloon were to go up when you were away from your retreat or G.O.O.D. bag. Besides, it can be a great deal of fun [and a means of exercise].

[JWR Adds: Because traditional slings require a large swinging arc, they are only suitable for use in large open areas. Overhead tree branches or ceilings render slings useless. A slingshot powered by surgical rubber tubing is far more practical for a typical suburban user.]

While far from a comprehensive list I hope that this article has given you food for thought. Any of the above tools can be partnered with a firearm to make an excellent hunting combination and have the benefits of allowing you to harvest game without the tell tale noise of a gun shot.


A side note

As a resident of California, the potential use of these tools are especially important. I live under the constant possibility of firearms confiscation. This need not be the statewide confiscation that most of us fear. Rather it could be an individual situation that stems from a simple misunderstanding. An example of this was demonstrated in a rural area of Los Angeles County recently when a man used a .22 [rimfire] rifle to kill a crow that was destroying his garden, this was admittedly illegal. The man owns five acres and his nearest neighbor is several hundred yards away. A neighbor heard him talking about having dispatched the animal and reported it to the local Sheriff. When officers arrived to investigate the issue they asked him if he had any firearms. He admitted he had and allowed them to accompany him to get the .22 rifle in question, which was secured in a small gun safe. The officers confiscated all of the firearms as part of the investigation. All were legally owned and obtained by the man, and the seizure was not legal–facts that his lawyer proved in court. He won the court case at great personal cost and the Sheriff was ordered to return his firearms. However, when he went to collect these firearms he was informed by the Sheriff’s department that the weapons had been mistakenly destroyed with the firearms from a recent gun “Buy Back”. He continues to wait for reimbursement. Had he used an air gun or slingshot to dispatch the animal then he would have never went through this situation. Admittedly in another state or indeed another county it probably would have not happened at all. However no matter where you are there are times when not drawing attention to the fact that you have firearms can be beneficial.

Do your research and experiment with these tools to find the best one, or combination of them for your family.

JWR Adds: Be sure to research your state and local laws–including fish and game laws–before buying any of these weapons. Some of the Nanny State jurisdictions now have laws on the books that have made their use, and in some cases even mere possession, illegal. The context in which they are seen by authorities is often crucial in justifying the legal possession of weapons or “dual use” items. A spear gun by itself in the trunk of your car would probably be seen as a “weapon”, but one that i stowed in a dive bag, along with a mask, snorkel, fins, diving flag, a current fishing license, and a copy of the current year’s fishing regulations would be seen as innocuous. Ditto for a baseball bat, that by itself could be misconstrued. But if stowed in a dufflebag bag with balls, gloves, and a batting helmet would look quite different. A flare gun by itself in the glove box of your car would be a major no-no in many jurisdictions, but one that is stowed in box or bag in your car trunk along with an air horn, nautical charts, current tide tables, and a GPS receiver could easily be explained.



Four Letter Re: Healthy Harvest Food Storage and Emergency Supplies

Hello SurvivalBlog Readers:
I just wanted to put in a plug for the newest SurvivalBlog sponsor, Healthy Harvest. I’ve been doing business with Jan for at least 10 years. The customer service is great. Jan has always been prompt and responsive in her communications. Her prices are competitive and her knowledge of products is excellent. If you live in the Southwest Washington/Northwest Oregon area, you can pick up the products in person at her warehouse. While Jan no longer has a retail store, she does offer occasional open warehouse days with food samples and discounts on product. She will let you know about those days if you get on her mailing list. Highly recommended! – C.A. in Oregon

Mr. Rawles,
Jan at Healthy Harvest is a smart lady and very helpful! I use her for 90% of my food storage needs. (I am lucky she is local.) You shouldn’t have any worry having her as an advertiser! She always comes through with the chow. Regards, – Ham

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info on the food storage company, right where I live. I had no idea! With all the back orders in this business, I’ll definitely back-up my truck when I get home to Washington later this month. – Jerry E. in Vancouver, Washington

James,
I wanted to take a moment and thank you for putting up the link to Healthy Harvest, which I was delighted to see was located not far from me here in Vancouver Washington.
I just got off the phone talking to a nice lady named Jan who works there. Unfortunately, they no longer have a storefront but they do have a warehouse and if you give her a call and make an appointment you can go there and have a little shopping spree. That just made my day! Thanks again! – Bustednuckles



Odds ‘n Sods:

How “safe” are safe deposit boxes? Read this article that Simon in England sent us: £14 million seized in deposit box search. Did all 7,000 boxes drilled open belong to “master criminals”? I doubt it. Where is the libertarian outcry? There is now hardly any expectation of privacy remaining in the UK, and property rights are fading fast. Take the gap!

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Hawaiian K. sent this piece from the George Washington Blog: The Derivatives Market is Unwinding! This confirms some of my predictions. Take a look at the piece that I wrote about derivatives a couple of years ago: Derivatives–The Mystery Man Who’ll Break the Global Bank at Monte Carlo.

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Zimbabwe Mulls a Z$100 Billion Per Month Minimum Wage. Meanwhile, The Daily Reckoning reports: “And in Zimbabwe, is another story altogether, with inflation going up so fast they can’t even measure it. Prices are said to be increasing at 160,000% to 200,000% per year. But who can tell? There’s nothing to buy.” So we can conclude that if implemented, Zimbabwe’s new “minimum wage” will be overcome by events within days, rendering it useless.

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Larry W. flagged this: Lanier plans to seal off rough ’hoods in latest effort to stop wave of violence. So the term “land of the free” no longer applies to the District of Criminals. How sad to see this happen in the nation’s capitol.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"You will bring about the destruction of the German war machine, the elimination of Nazi tyranny over the oppressed peoples of Europe, and security for ourselves in a free world. Your task will not be an easy one. Your enemy is well trained, well equipped, and battle-hardened. He will fight savagely….The free men of the world are marching together to victory. I have full confidence in your courage, devotion to duty, and skill in battle. We will accept nothing less than full victory. Good luck, and let us all beseech the blessings of Almighty God upon this great and noble undertaking." – General Dwight D. Eisenhower giving the D-Day invasion order for June 6, 1944





Budget Preparedness–Survival Isn’t About Stuff, It is About Skills

I often stress that a key to survival is not what you have, but rather what you know. (See my Precepts of Rawlesian Survivalist Philosophy web page.) In part, I wrote:

Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those only come with study, training, and practice. Any armchair survivalist can buy a set of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken for genuine skills and practicality.

To expand on those precepts, consider the following:

Balanced logistics are important for everyone, but absolutely crucial for someone that is on a tight budget. If you have a three year food supply, then a quantity miscalculation for one particular food item will likely be just an inconvenience. But if you only have a three month supply, then a miscalculation can be a serious hazard. Be logical, systematic, and dispassionate in your preparations. You need to develop some detailed lists, starting with a “List of Lists.” Be realistic and scale your retreat logistics purchasing program to your budget. Avoid gong in to debt to “get prepared.” A friend of mine who was a Physician’s Assistant went way overboard in 1998 and 1999, stocking up for Y2K. The massive credit card debt that he racked up eventually contributed to a prolonged mental depression.

Choose your retreat location wisely. If you can’t afford 40 acres, then be sure to pick the right 5 or 10 acres. Finding a property that adjoins public land, and/or property with like-minded neighbors, can make a huge difference. The smaller your land-buying budget, the longer your search should be, to get the most for your money. In today’s plunging real estate market, don’t overlook the possibility of finding a foreclosed (“bank owned”) farm or ranch at a “below market” price. Watch the foreclosure listings in your intended retreat region closely. Two foreclosure monitoring services that I recommend are RealtyTrac.com and Foreclosures.com.

Buy used instead of new. It goes without saying that your purchasing dollars will go farther if you concentrate on quality used tools, guns, and vehicles. Remember that preparedness is not a beauty contest. There are no “Style” points awarded. So owning gear with some dings and scratches is not an issue. Just be sure to inspect used items very carefully. In the case of buying a used vehicle, it is worthwhile to run a check on the vehicle’s history through a service like CARFAX. This will reveal if the vehicle might have been repaired after a major collision. Also, hire a qualified mechanic to do some checks before you buy a used rig. That will be money well-spent!

Clip coupons, watch and wait for seasonal sales, shop at thrift stores, go to garage sales and flea markets, attend weekend farm and estate auctions, and learn to watch Craig’s List and Freecycle like a hawk. The only thing better that finding inexpensive used items is having thing given to you. This is a common occurrence with Freecycle. For example, it is not unusual to have someone give you several dozen Mason-type canning jars. Just be sure to return the favor, in the spirit of Freecycle.

Strike a balance between quality and quantity. I’m a big believer in the old adage: “Better is the enemy of good enough.” Why buy a $320 Chris Reeve folding knife when a used $30 CRKT or Cold Steel brand pocketknife bought on eBay will provide 95% of the functionality of a custom knife? Buying at 1/10th the price means that you will have money available for other important logistics and training.

Take advantage of free or low-cost training. The WRSA, for example, offers shooting and medical training at near their cost. I’ve discussed other such training opportunities at length previously in SurvivalBlog. In my Precepts page, I noted:

Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn’t make someone a “shooter” any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer. With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen. Get advanced medical training. Get the best firearms training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local affiliated ARRL club. Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected over a period of years.

Learn to distinguish between essentials and non-essentials. Do you really need cable television? Eating out? snacks from the vending machine? ? Use the cash generated to buy the really important things, like storage food.

When you don’t have cash, then apply sweat equity. Do you need pasture fence or garden fence at your retreat property? Don’t hire someone and “have it done” Do it yourself. Not only will you save money, but you will also learn valuable skills. You might even lose some of that flab around your midsection, in the process. Also consider that people are often willing to barter their excess tangibles in trade for your skills and time. Do you have an elderly neighbor with a big gun collection? Then offer to paint his house in trade for a couple of guns or a few of those heavy ammo cans that he won’t live long enough to shoot? In my Precepts page, I wrote:

Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of you have a millionaire’s budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself, and be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only “skilled craftsmen” available to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure will be you.and your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight. Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself.

People often assume that because my blog and novel are widely read that I am wealthy. I actually have a very modest income. The only reason that our retreat is so well stocked is that I have been systematically stocking up for 30 years. I am not a “yuppie survivalist” as at least one fellow blogger claims. I gave up my Big City salaried job years ago, to concentrate on living self-sufficiently. Part of this was a conscious decision to raise our children in a more wholesome environment. The major drawback is that the Rawles Ranch is in such a remote area that we don’t get into town very often.

The Memsahib Adds. The good thing about living so remotely is there are no shopping opportunities. Even if I had the urge to indulge in some retail therapy, I’d have to drive more than two hours to do it. The next best things you can do is cancel your magazine subscriptions. If you analyze the contents of most magazines you will realize that they are designed to make you dissatisfied with your clothes, your home decor, garden, electronics, autos because they aren’t the latest, greatest, and most fashionable. I also highly recommend selling or Freecycling your television, for the very same reason. A couple of exceptions to our magazine rule are Backwoods Home, and Home Power, since they are both light on advertising and heavy on practical skills.

In closing, do the best you can with what you have. Be truly frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One of our family mottos is: “Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.” I thank my mother for passing that wisdom along to my generation, and I am doing the same, with my children.



Letter Re: The Importance of Storing Vitamin C

Humans along with a few other creatures do not produce Vitamin C. (We also do not make uricase [Urate oxidase] so are prone to Gout, a human disease). As such we must get Vitamin C from our diet. We have already discussed the need of vitamin C to prevent scurvy. Since it is water soluble and [unlike Vitamins A, D, E, and K, is] not fat soluble, we must take it continually. One important time that you need Vitamin C is in the case of trauma or infection. Animals that make their own Vitamin C increase production immensely in these conditions. If you find yourself dealing with a trauma, infection or both (gunshots, anyone?) consider tapping into you Vitamin C cache. Take as much as you can before you reach bowel tolerance (loose stools) then back off a little. As an example, for me, 2 grams a day is my maximum under normal conditions before I reach tolerance. Over the last two days after a nasty full body sunburn I am taking 8 grams [(8,000 milligrams)] a day with no side effects. It’s one of the more important things you can do for yourself to accelerate healing. – SF in Hawaii

JWR Replies: I agree wholeheartedly that Vitamin C storage is a must, and that it is crucial for healing following trauma. It has long been known that taking vitamin C minimizes trauma-induced bruising. There is little harm in megadosing vitamin C, since any excess that the body does not need is passed through the urinary tract. Cumulatively, however, if megadosing is done too frequently might be too hard on the kidneys. But I am dismayed that megadosing of water-soluble vitamins is done too frequently by “health nuts”. If nothing else, it is a needless expense.

My only strong proviso is to avoid overdosing any of the fat soluble vitamins (the aforementioned Vitamins A, D, E, and K—best mnemonically memorized with the word “KADE“.) This has already been discussed at length in SurvivalBlog.



Letter Re: An Inexpensive Source for Bulk Silica Gel Desiccant

Jim:

You wrote in reply to a recent e-mail from “Billfour”: “JWR Replies: That is a great suggestion. Just beware of any desiccant that has any additives, dyes, or scents. A perfumed desiccant would be fine for tool storage, but potentially a disaster for food storage.”

I’ve just been through this. Tidy Cats Crystals has perfume, which I discovered after getting it home and opening it. (I’ll use it for my stored ammo.) The brand that I have found that has no perfume is the Amazing Cat Litter brand. It only has silica gel as the stated ingredient on its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Also, the chunks of silica gel are larger, with much less dust. I used twist-ties and brown coffee filters to wrap-up an ounce at a time, which is the approximate amount needed for six-gallon pails. – Ham



Odds ‘n Sods:

Rourke suggested this video clip for readers that are in tornado or hurricane country: How Pre-cast Concrete Walls help protect your home.

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Barbara W. sent us this Reuters new story link: Food price “catastrophe” feared on eve of summit

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David D. sent this Wall Street Journal article link: Lofty Prices for Fertilizer Put Farmers in a Squeeze.

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Several readers sent us this: Researchers Secretly Tracked 100,000 Cell Users Outside U.S. for Six Months



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"There are two dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other that heat comes from the furnace." – Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac



Notes from JWR:

Today we are pleased to welcome our newest advertiser, Healthy Harvest. They are a food storage vendor headquartered in Vancouver, Washington, but they ship throughout the US and Canada. Be sure to visit their web site and order some items from their amazing “deep and wide” product line.

The following is another article for Round 17 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 17 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



From WTSHTF to TEOTWAWKI: Cleaning Up After the Grim Reaper, by “Sarah Connor”

“Death is still a fearful, frightening happening, and the fear of death is a universal fear even if we think we have mastered it on many levels.” – Elizabeth Kubler-Ross, M.D.
We have nothing to fear but fear itself, as the saying goes. The basis of much fear is simply the unknown. As a society, we have distanced ourselves from death. Hospitals, nursing homes, hospices, and funeral homes do all the “dirty work” and cemetery’s are neatly hidden behind fences and walls, trees and hedges. We pass by on a daily basis, unwilling to acknowledge what lies beyond those barriers; but the time is fast approaching when death will not hide its face any longer.

Most of us are not prepared for wholesale death. We have little to no experience with it. We owe it to ourselves and to our families to become acquainted with this “fact of life” and learn how to manage its effects as best we can. The first thing we can do is to look death in the face.

So what does death look like, anyway? Soon after death, anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours depending on various factors, the body begins to cool off. It becomes pale and internal sphincter muscles (i.e., circular muscles controlling stomach, bladder and anus) relax. This leads to the release of their contents if the body is moved. Dependent lividity sets in within about 30 minutes. This is where blood pools in the lowest parts of the body (usually the back and bottom of the person, if in a prone position) and begins to coagulate. Rigor mortis sets in and the muscles in the body begin to stiffen, the skin starts hardening, and hands and toes curl. (I know this is graphic, but think “wicked witch of the west that Dorothy’s house just landed on with time lapse photography.) This peaks around 12 hours after death and disappears in another 24 hours, depending on the temperature. Decay becomes visible within 24 hours. Human intestines contain friendly bacteria that help us when we are alive but become predators after we die. The internal organs begin to collapse, the skin loses its connection with underlying tissues, and bacteria create gases that cause bloating and swelling. This is a major cause of the putrefaction (rot) that sets in. The internal organs eventually turn to liquid and when the liquid exits through the orifices (eyes, ears, nose, mouth, exit points of the bowel and bladder), it is called “purge.” It’s ugly and smelly. The last organs to liquefy are the uterus and prostate. They can last as long as 12 months. This is how a coroner can determine the sex of a corpse dead less than 12 months.

It takes a corpse 12-20 years to return to dust depending on whether the corpse is an adult or child, what the grave temperature is, whether the body was fat (fat takes longer to break down), if and how it was embalmed, etc. In Scotland, where graves are reused, a grave is considered “ripe” until it is at least 20 years old; meaning if you open it before 20 years, you may be in for a very unpleasant surprise. (Due to the rocky terrain, graves in Scotland have to be reused.) So a corpse does not disappear quickly.

So why not just leave it where it lies? If a corpse is left out in the open, wild animals and insects will feast on it. And if the body is diseased, disease will spread quickly to humans. If you wonder why, just imagine flies crawling in and all over a dead body and the purge oozing from the orifices, and then crawling all over your dinner. That is why dead bodies must be disposed of quickly.
And flies are not the only lovers of dead meat. It has been observed that man’s “best friend” will devour him when he dies. One man died at home and his dog tore him apart in less than an hour. Firemen used to allow their mascots to come along with them on runs until the fire trucks started following ambulances. The firemen had to stop allowing their dogs to come along on runs because the dogs went straight for the dead meat. Definitely a public relations situation not to mention a health hazard.

Okay, so you’ve got a dead body in your vicinity. What are you going to do? Assuming the body is in the area you are inhabiting and you do not live near the ocean, you have two options, both of which require a lot of hard work: (1) you can bury it, or (2) you can incinerate it. But the one thing you cannot do is to ignore it.

(1) Burying requires digging a hole six feet deep (and five feet wide and seven feet long, depending on the size of the corpse. You can either bury the body in a shroud or bury it in a pine box (links below). Either way, the corpse will decompose and bacteria could find its way into the water table, which is why current laws require a concrete liner. However, in emergency situations chances are concrete liners will not be available. That is why option 2 may be the better option, unless fire conditions exist (which is more likely given the current worldwide drought situation).

(2) Cremation/Incineration (a/k/a “the funeral pyre”) is both an ancient and modern practice for the disposition of dead bodies. For the pyre, stack up lots of wood. Then put the body on top of the wood and pour flammable liquid such as oil, motor oil, kerosene, heating oil, or charcoal on the body and the wood. Then ignite the fire. It is best to keep the fire burning as hot as possible. Do not use gasoline. This will destroy harmful germs quickly and won’t contaminate the groundwater. Don’t breathe the fumes, the smell of a burning human body is not only sickening, but could make you sick. Make sure the wind will carry the smoke away from your home (or camp). For detailed instructions on how to build a funeral pyre, see below. You can also use a furnace or incinerator if you have one available.

If you happen to be near the ocean, feeding a corpse to the fish would be the easiest way to dispose of a corpse. However, if you are physically unable to do that or any of the above, the best thing to do is to wrap the corpse in plastic sheeting and move it as far away from your location as you can, preferably downwind and not near any body of water. Putting rocks over it (without burying it in the ground) would keep smaller animals from desecrating the remains and the plastic would keep the flies from crawling all over it. One thing to remember with any of these methods, except for burial at sea, is that you are leaving visible signs that someone is nearby. If this will be a security issue, then you must devise a plan to dispose of remains in a way that will be hidden from intruders.

If you are in a position to have a funeral, don’t think about embalming the body. It is a complicated process and requires special training, material and equipment. The only purpose of embalming is to delay the putrefaction process so that the funeral can take place 3-5 days after death. In an emergency situation, this will not be possible. Any funeral would have to be done quickly followed immediately by disposition of the body.

Landfills are not a viable solution for the disposal of dead bodies either because not only of the presence of rats and smoke, but paper and plastic film dispersed by the winds, all of which could carry disease.

Composting (animal remains) is also a non-viable option. Flies, mosquitoes, rats, wildlife, and other vectors of disease transmission would be attracted to the compost pile and after a hearty lunch would spread disease. Large bones and hides will not compost easily, thus defeating the composting process.

As mentioned above, improper disposition of human (and animal) remains constitute a potential for ground and surface water contamination. Groundwater is contained in a geological layer called an aquifer. Aquifers are composed of permeable or porous geological material (materials that can be penetrated by liquids or gases) located at greater depths and, though somewhat protected, can still be contaminated when they are tapped for use or are close to a source of heavy contamination for a long time. And that, of course, leads to serious health concerns.

When dealing with dead bodies, always wear a facemask, clothing barrier, gloves and goggles. Depending on the state of decay, gasses could be a problem and you need to be prepared if something were to explode and spew in your face. Decontaminate yourself thoroughly after handling a dead body, as well as your equipment and clothing.

Every home should have a “Last Aid” kit containing the following items:
1. For burials:
a. A pick mattock;
b. A round and square-bladed shovel (one of each);
c. Pre-made pine boxes that are easily screwed together and can be lain flat as a kit under the bed, or kept in the closet in a cardboard shipping (original) container. Needs only a few screwdrivers, and about 2 hours to assemble. No power tools needed. You could also make a coffin or two and use them as coffee tables or bookshelves or storage until they are needed (links below);
d. Shroud material, or coffin lining material;
e. A grave site picked out in the backyard or a place in the city park or the local graveyard. Those on farms or ranches can utilize the “Back 40” for the family cemetery;
f. If there will be a viewing, put some glue on the lips of the deceased, otherwise the mouth can come open and scare people. There should be no viewing if the person died of an infectious disease. If death was caused by an accident and there is disfigurement, bandages could be placed or gauze placed to conceal the damage. Children should not be excluded from the grieving process and should not be lied to that “mommy is asleep” or “daddy is on a long trip.” They can always tell something isn’t right and will find out eventually anyway.
g. Several strong ropes for lowering the coffin into the grave site.
h. A marker of some type, if desired.
2. For incineration/funeral pyres:
a. Flammable liquids (as described above);
b. Wood;
c. Fire (matches, BBQ lighters, etc.).
3. For situations that are not TEOTWAWKI scenarios wherein the government remains intact (such as might occur in a bird flu pandemic), the following will help the authorities with identification:
a. A complete set of identification and papers should be kept with the body; and
b. All medicines the deceased was taking, placed in a Ziploc bag along with an envelope containing the papers that describe the medicines and put with the body (this could help with further identification as well as an autopsy).
4. As a person nears death, several changes of bedding and blankets should be neatly folded, laundered and ready for changing. When a person is at the point of passing away, the bowel and bladder functions naturally release the sphincter muscles and discharge will follow.
a. Remember, the same bed will likely be reused, so it is best to encase the mattress in a protective cover. Burn the plastic cover after the person dies and disinfect the mattress.
b. Soiled laundry should not be re-used if it can’t be cleaned with bleach. If the deceased person died from an infectious disease, soiled laundry should be burned. Always take standard precautions (gloves, goggles, clothing barrier) when handling infected materials.
5. Bodies should be disposed of within 24 hours, if at all possible. Sooner, if death was caused by a contagious disease or the outside temperature is hot.
6. If it is winter or you are in a cold climate, a body can stay frozen, but needs to be disposed of before it thaws.
7. Get some books on grieving, how to conduct a funeral, etc. and get educated so when death comes you will be prepared to deal with it mentally and emotionally. With that taken care of, you will be better equipped to assist all affected by death.

Unstable times are upon us. Things like funerals may become a thing of the past in order to just survive. The most important thing to focus on is preparing yourself mentally and emotionally in advance for the prospect of death, including perhaps your own or your loved ones. Education and preparation are vital so that you will be able to continue functioning in a survival situation.

References:
How to Build a Funeral Pyre

How to Build a Coffin (has links to other articles as well as listing several interim uses for a coffin)

Coffins, Shrouds, Green Burials, Books on Death/Dying, etc.

“On Death and Dying”, Elizabeth Kubler-Ross, M.D.

“Death to Dust”, Kenneth V. Iserson

JWR Adds: Laws on burial on private property vary widely. Be sure to consult your state and local laws. In the event of a disaster situation you may end up burying a loved one ad hoc, and have to catch up on death certificate paperwork after order is restored. Some digital photographs and sworn and notarized statements may suffice to prevent the indignity of a subsequent exhumation. In many ways, do-it-yourself burial is a lot easier to explain to public officials than cremation. Also keep in mind that that it takes a tremendous amount of fuel to fully cremate a human body. This is not an issue for regions with plentiful firewood, but it could be a limiting factor in other regions.