SF in Hawaii suggested this BBC article: State of the planet, in graphics.
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My brother mentioned the WikiHow article “How to Cook Food on Your Car’s Engine”. Back in the early 1980s, before MREs were widely issued, in the US Army we often warmed C-Ration cans on top of our vehicle engine blocks.
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From perennial contributor RBS: Credit Bubble Bulletin: Structured finance under duress
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Stephen in Iraq sent us this: Atlanta water use is called shortsighted
"I sought the Lord, and he heard me,
And delivered me from all my fears." – Psalm 34:4
The high bid is now at $400 in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction, for four items: a Baygen Freeplay Summit AM/FM/Shortwave digitally-tuned radio, and a Baygen Sherpa hand crank flashlight. These were kindly donated by Ready Made Resources, one of our most loyal advertisers. Also included in the auction lot is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and an autographed copy of my novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse”. These four items have a combined value of more than $350. The auction ends on November 15th. Just e-mail us your bid.
Hi Jim-
I wanted to comment on the generator noise reduction article by Jerry. An easy and relatively inexpensive solution that gives dramatic noise reduction for portable generators: Rubbermaid-type plastic storage sheds. These sheds typically have about a 5′ wide x 2.5′ deep footprint, a composite floor, and are an ideal size for a typical, 2,000 to 7,500 watt generators.
To modify the plastic shed for running the generator inside, four important, simple modifications are needed: 1) Cutting a small intake port on one side, and covering it with any type of breathable, mesh screen, to keep critters out. 2) Cutting a 3″ or 4″ round exhaust port on the opposite side from the intake. 3) Mounting a marine/bilge type 12 VDC exhaust blower motor to the exhaust port and wiring it to the 12 VDC circuit of the generator. 4) Placing an aluminum-faced fiberglass HVAC insulation panel where the generator’s exhaust will most closely hit the plastic interior wall of the
shed. The exhaust is hot enough to melt the plastic without the insulation.
My setup has two 4″ Rule brand marine bilge blowers wired in parallel, plugged into the 12 volt panel outlet of my Generac portable generator. When the generator is started, the blowers start. I have taken temperature measurements inside the enclosure with the generator running, and it only varies a few degrees from the ambient air temperature. The blowers exhaust a tremendous volume of air; heat doesn’t build up inside the enclosure because the air turns over so quickly.
The sound reduction is tremendous. The generator becomes a distant background noise at about 50′. Much more than that, and it becomes nearly
inaudible.
Cutting a hole in the composite floor for some type of security fixture to lock the generator to is also an easy project.
Hope this is useful. Regards, – Rich S.
Water is essential for human life and unfortunately some sources provide water unsafe for human consumption. There are several methods for treating water including osmosis, distillation, ultra violet, boiling, filtering, and chemicals such as chlorine or iodine. Most of these treatments are aimed at biological contamination and each of them has disadvantages in a WTSHTF scenario. My solution is to first pre-filter the water using coffee filters or a clean rag, then use a quality microfilter such as the Katadyn Pocket filter, and then boil or chemical treat the water as the situation allows. In this article we will briefly examine biological contaminates and why I came to my solution. Contaminates may also include chemicals but is beyond the scope of this article.
Biological contaminates consist of microorganisms also called microbes. There are four different groups. Arranged from largest to smallest they are, fungi, protista, bacteria, and viruses. The smallest bacteria which causes human disease is Mycoplasma pneumoniae which is approximately 0.2 microns in size. When selecting a microfilter, I want one that filters down to at least 0.2 microns (a micron is one micrometer or 0.000001 meter or 1 x 10-6 meter). While effective against bacteria and larger microorganisms, even a good microfilters (0.2 microns) can not be counted on to filter out viruses unless there is another mechanism to trap or destroy the virus. All the viruses I am familiar with are smaller in diameter than 0.3 microns, examples include Smallpox 0.250 microns, Rabies 0.150 microns, Influenza (Flu) 0.100 microns, and Polio 0.028 microns. Viruses are composed of DNA or RNA surrounded by a protein coat called a capsid. This construction allows them to be easily destroyed by boiling or chemicals such as iodine or bleach. While iodine or bleach is effective against viruses, it is ineffective against the protista Cryptosporidium. Since the first recorded human case of Cryptosporidiosis in 1976, it has grown to become one of the most common waterborne diseases. Rates from 6%, to as high as 54% have been found in day care centers in the United States. In 1993, an outbreak in Milwaukee, Wisconsin infected approximately 400,000 residents. 4,400 people had to be hospitalized and the cost of the outbreak was estimated at over $54 million. If this is a problem now, imagine what it would be in WTSHTF scenario. See the CDC web site for additional information. What about boiling water to kill microbes? Unfortunately, some bacteria produce spores (also called endospores) which can survive extreme conditions. They can survive being boiled in water (100 degrees Celsius) for two hours, survive in 70% ethyl alcohol for 20 years, or survive one million REMs ([just] 600 REMs is fatal to most people). One of the most infamous bacteria that forms spores is Bacillus anthracis which causes Anthrax. By using a microfilter, I am eliminating fungi, protista, bacteria including spores and leaving only viruses that can easily be destroyed with chemicals or by boiling.
I came across another product called “First Need Portable Water Purifier” that is supposed to remove viruses without any chemicals. I have no experience with this product but will be checking it out. See their web site for more information. – Bill N.
Mr. Rawles,
I think that some attention should be paid to implementing psychological deterrents as a measure of improving retreat security after The Crunch. As food and water sources are depleted in the cities and the surviving population begins to mobilize you will more than likely see refugees passing through your retreat locale. These people may be armed and will be tough as they have survived to this point, but
mentally they will be tired. When they approach your compound they will view fences, antipersonnel barriers and armed conflict as obstacles that can be defeated. The point is to try and keep them from getting to this point. If you can create an obstacle that is impossible to beat they won’t even consider it.
What I am suggesting is [simulated] NBC (Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical) threat through the use of markers. Almost every adult is familiar with these symbols and their related colors and will probably do whatever they can to stay away from them if they know that there is a threat. So I would suggest that in areas where you feel that people may be traveling and wander into your territory that you use one of the placebo markers. You could even fashion some fake graves near the area or spread animal bones. [Most] people will not know the difference. Upon seeing these people may immediately rethink their route and destination and avoid your retreat.
To add to this, if the scenario is bad enough such that there is military conflict you could even use fake anti-vehicle/personnel mine markers. You could even combine the two–such as placing a burned vehicle with a scorched area around it to mimic an attack with depleted uranium, and then place nuclear hazard signs around it. I know that it is may seem cruel to play with people’s minds, but if they were to accidentally wander onto your retreat and pose a threat then their lives would be at stake. Regards, – Echofourcharlie
Hi Jim:
Last year I bought some wheat from Walton Feed: about $8 for a 50 lb. bag. Called then yesterday: $15.50 for the same 50 lb. bag: But inflation is running at only 4% right? Luckily I found an organic grower of wheat an hour away who will sell for $800/ton and avoid the $500+ shipping fee. Not many wheat growers in Massachusetts. It pays to shop locally. – John
D.V. suggested this article by Charles Hughes Smith that explains the hedge fund nightmare: The Great Unraveling Begins
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John at SurvivalistBooks.com e-mailed us to mention that there is a newer version of Alan T. Hagan’s collection of Food Storage FAQs, available for free download. I just updated my links to the FAQs–both in the blog thread, and in the SurvivalBlog Links page.
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Frequent contributor Hawaiian K. sent us a link to the Barefoot Motors web site. They make an electric ATV with regenerative braking. Check out their video clip. Do you recognize Jamie from Myth Busters?
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Mark in Montana told us about a web site for food grade steel cans and a can sealer in Canada. Its called Wells Can Company Ltd. They have a manual can sealer for $245.00 (U.S.) for sealing 301 and 307 cans and $26.00 more for sealing 401 28 oz. cans. Mark noted that they have many kinds of food grade cans and other canning items available.
"There are four boxes to be used in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury and ammo. Please use in that order." – Ed Howdershelt
Please help spread the word about SurvivalBlog! Links to SurvivalBlog in your personal web page and/or in your e-mail footer would be greatly appreciated.
Mr. Rawles:
In television news footage and magazine articles about U.S. troops stationed in Iraq, Afghanistan, and elsewhere, I often see soldiers with nylon pouches attached to their rifle [butt]stocks. They seem to hold extra magazines. That seems pretty handy, so you always have a spare magazine, even if you get separated from your “Deuce” [web] gear. Do you recommend doing this? If so, what sort of pouch do you suggest for my M1A and AR-15? I also have several bolt actions, but only one of mine takes [detachable] magazines, and only four rounders are available for it. What should I use for those rifles ? Thanks, – G.H.
JWR Replies: I do recommend using buttstock pouches, so long as they do not interfere with proper sighting and cheek weld. In my experience they work fine on fixed stock rifles, but are a bit cumbersome on folding or collapsing stock guns. Here at the Rawles Ranch, we use Spec-Ops brand “Ready Fire Mode” magazine pouches for our L1A1s, which each hold one 20 round .308 magazine. The same pouch should fit FAL, M1A, and AR-10 magazines, but I think HK91 magazines are too bulky–because of their reinforced top sections–to fit these pouches. The same company also makes a variant of this stock puch for AR-15/M16 and other .223 magazines. SpecOps brand pouches are available from a number of Internet vendors including Midway USA.
The Memsahib has a Valmet Hunter .308 that is equipped with a widely available Michaels of Oregon (Uncle Mike’s) stock pouch. It is used to carry a spare five round magazine, hunting license, and tags. All of our shotguns are equipped with similar Michaels of Oregon (Uncle Mike'”) stock pouches that hold five shells. We use the type that are covered with a velcro-secured flap. (This both prevents lost shells and cuts down on shell head reflections. (I do not recommend the more common type shotshell holder that lacks a flap cover. Those are an invitation to lose shells when in the field.)
For all of our centerfire bolt actions that have non-detachable magazines, we use olive drab Holland’s of Oregon brand zippered-nylon buttstock pouches with neoprene cheekpieces. These also work well for holding small (4 or 5 cartirdge) magazines. I noticed that they are not currently cataloged at the Holland’s web site, but I believe that they should still be available. (Call to inquire.) This is a first rate item.
Shalom Jim:
I was visiting Geri Guidetti’s Ark Institute web site and she has posted on there that for just one adult male the following is the minimum food storage requirements for one year:
1.) 350 lbs. of wheat (actually for a family of four it is close to 1,200 pounds of wheat alone)
2.) 155 lbs. of various grains
3.) 55 lbs. of beans, etc.
My question for you is do you agree with these numbers? And are you storing quantities like this or do you use a different system?
I am getting ready to make some large purchases so I’d appreciate your knowledge, please.
Shalom B’shem Yahshua Ha Moshiach (Peace in the Name of Yahshua the Messiah) – Dr. Sidney Zweibel
JWR Replies: Those figure vary widely, depending on which book you read or web site you visit. I think that some figures are perhaps a bit high, but they are made with the conservative assumption that almost everything would be made from scratch. For example, that you would have only whole wheat and no stored supplies of flour, pasta, or breakfast cereals. Thus, you’d often be using wheat berries (soaked swollen whole wheat) in lieu of breakfast cereal.
The most widely accepted figures come from the LDS church food storage web site. There, they have an interactive calculator. Punching in “4” (for a family with four members that are 7 or older), it yields these figures:
Wheat: 600 pounds (of a total of 1,200 pounds of grains, which includes 200 pounds of rice.)
Beans, dry 120 pounds (out of a total of 240 pounds of legumes.)
This calculator also gives quantities for sugars, milk, fats and oils, salt, and so forth. It is quite a useful tool, and I commend its anonymous author/designer. (No doubt part of someone’s LDS missionary project.) BTW, this calculator also serves as a valuable reality check for anyone that just used their our own quantity assumptions when buying bulk foods.
Quite importantly, if you think that you’ll have any assorted parents, siblings cousins, aunts, uncles, church brethren, and shooting buddies (and their offspring) arriving on your doorstep on TEOTWAWKI +1, then consider those additional numbers when making your storage food quantity calculations. Odds are that it will give you some very large numbers, indeed!
The shelf life of most bulk foods is quite long (8 to 30 years) if they are properly packaged. (See Alan T. Hagan’s Food Storage FAQ. It is excellent.) In their soft grocery store packaging, some foods have a pitifully short shelf life. I included a lengthy table with some very useful data on food shelf life in my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course. The table differentiates between packaging methods for many foods.
When planning, if you must err, then err on the side of larger quantities. The extra supply will either extend your own supplies or provide a surplus for charity of barter.If you have the space and you have the money, then buy more. Someday you’ll be glad that you did.
A sewing machine is a critical item in my household that has saved me thousands of dollars in gear I would otherwise have had to buy. Sewing actually provided me higher performance customized gear that simply wasn’t available unless I made it myself.
In normal times it makes more sense economically to buy most clothing since it is readily available inexpensively or second hand. Sewing time is better spent on [making] higher-priced items like outdoor gear. During difficult times even clothing might not be available. It could be necessary to rely on home sewing to provide almost everything that is needed. I have made duffle bags, back packs, fanny packs, stuff sacks, gun cases, rain gear, sleeping bags, down coats, hats, rifle slings, ammo pouches, vehicle tow straps, under wear, and baby clothes. During good times or bad a sewing machine can provide a richer lifestyle
Surprisingly, unless you’ve experienced it, it is frequently faster to make exactly what you want or modify existing gear rather than to spend time and money to search it out and purchase it. I have usually experienced this after the stores are closed and I am packing up to leave on a trip first thing in the morning. There is really no limit to what you can produce. You will end up with more gear and better gear. Your hard earned money can go toward things you can’t easily provide for yourself.
What kind of sewing machine should you get?
There are a lot of solid durable sewing machines that would meet a survivalist’s needs but I recommend looking for black Singer straight stitch machines. They are a tremendous value compared to the expensive modern industrial machine you would need to do comparable heavy duty sewing. The Singers are sturdy, reliable machines and conveniently they are very common and readily available often for free if they are just gathering dust in a friend or relatives closet. Ask around you might be surprised. If you have to buy one they can be found at yard sales for $10 to $20. Except for the free ones I have paid as little as $3 and these days if I can get one for $10 or less I buy it. I really don’t need anymore but they are useful as trade goods or spares.
Get a treadle stand. You want a treadle stand for your sewing machine for two reasons. A dedicated stand or cabinet with the sewing machine set flush into the top is much easier to use. A treadle stand will allow you to operate without grid power. If you can find a Singer treadle stand with the machine still in it, great. If some budding Martha Stewart has pulled the machine out to make a flower stand buy it anyway if the price is right. All the standard size Singer machines can be mounted in the treadle stand. My treadle started out with the original Model 66 machine. It was later switched out for a Singer Model 15 with a reverse and finally the Model 15 was switched out for a top of the line Model 201.
Which machines should you get? Yes plural. You need at least one spare. Although the only thing I have broken in 40 years of often abusive sewing has been needles. Considering the price of used machines there is no point in stocking repair parts. Just get a spare machine or two. You can get by with one but I recommend two because you can. They’re cheap. You need one machine with the chromed rim spoked handwheel. This machine can be driven with the belt from the treadle. You need another machine with an electric motor for normal use during grid up times. Actually you can install an electric motor on any of these machines Even my 1919 Model 66 with the chromed spoked wheel has the motor boss cast into it for installing an electric motor. I don’t recommend installing a motor because a motor and foot control would cost more than buying a complete electric machine at a yard sale. The other reason I don’t like the bolt on motor is they take a rubber drive belt that is less reliable than the next option I will discuss.
The most likely electric machine–remember we are talking black Singers here–you will encounter is the Model 15. It uses a bobbin case that installs on the left end of the machine. The edge of the bobbin is toward you and it rotates on a horizontal pin pointing to the left. The Model 15 that I prefer is the Model 15-91. It has an integral motor on the back of the machine near the handwheel. The machine is driven through a worm drive. I prefer this style because there is no belt tension to adjust and no belt to wear out or fail. It is a forever machine.
The most likely treadle machine to encounter is the Model 66. The bobbin drops in from the top and rotates on a vertical axis. There is no removable bobbin case.
Skip the machines with a bullet shaped bobbin shuttle. Bobbins are harder to find and the machines and the designs are obsolete.
Both the Model 15 and 66 have an oscillating type action. The hook that catches the needle thread only rotates far enough to catch the thread and make the stitch and then reverses direction. More expensive machines have a full rotary motion. The hook continuously rotates. This is a more expensive machine to manufacture but results in a smoother running machine.
The holy grail of full size black Singer sewing machines is the Singer Model 201. This machine has a full rotary action an integral motor like the Model 15-91 and a drop in bobbin like the Model 66. The 201 also has a gold “paper clip” type design on it. If you find one of these grab it.
Get a Singer treadle stand, a Singer treadle sewing machine, and a Singer electric sewing machine with integral motor, either the 15-91 or the 201.
You also need thread, bobbins and needles. For general purpose heavy duty sewing get cones (6000 yards) of nylon or polyester upholstery thread at an upholstery store in black, white, and tan. Get Schmetz or similar quality size 100/16 denim needles in boxes of 100 for about $0.25/needle on the web. In the store they are over $1 apiece. Don’t buy cheap needles. They are not worth fooling with. The Models 66 and 201 take the same narrow bobbin. The Model 15 takes a wider bobbin. 25 bobbins of each style would probably be enough.
For $100 you can get equipment that will return the purchase price many fold and take care of your repair and manufacturing needs into the indefinite future. Get geared up and start learning a new skill.
Alphie mentioned that GlobalSecurity.org hosts an online edition of the US Army’s FM 23-10 Sniper Training
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I just heard that a new, expanded version of the promotional trailer for the “I Am Legend” feature film is now available. It looks scary and a bit OTT. But hopefully one result of this movie’s release will be that it’ll get some people thinking about the implications of a pandemic and hopefully get a few of them to stock up and get some training.
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RBS flagged this one: Foreclosure filings soar in Third Quarter. One man’s loss is another man’s gain. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, a small portion of rural foreclosures may represent a retreat buying opportunity. Monitor the market closely, either through a cooperative real estate agent in your selected retreat area, and/or through Foreclosure.com. You may find yourself a bargain in the months to come.
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Stephen C. mentioned that Ammoman.com is selling brand new (factory sealed), current generation FERO Z-24 Hensoldt 4×24 scopes, with real H&K claw mounts, tools, lens caps and case for $389. Readers that own HK91 or HK93 rifles (or clones thereof) should grab a couple of of these scopes while they are still affordable. (I first mentioned them over a year ago when they were around $275.) With the continuing slide in the dollar versus the Euro, they are bound to continue to go up in price. Remember what I said about investing in tangibles? This is a prime example.
“Life is tough, but it’s tougher when you’re stupid.” – John Wayne