Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader “Ed7B” sent us a link to a page at the Medical Corps web site with an account of an emergency appendectomy in a submarine in WWII – with not a doctor for many miles, and a dearth of proper equipment, tools and drugs. Ed’s comment: “They still managed to get this sailor’s appendix out and have a happy outcome. Pertinent to what people can expect when there is no hospital open, let alone a doctor to be found.” Speaking of preparedness for austere medicine, don’t miss the outstanding Medical Corps training on August 24-25-26 at the Ohio State University Extension Campus in Caldwell, Ohio.

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Frequent content contributor SF in Hawaii sent us the URL for Frontier Natural Products Co-Op, a mail order firm that has a lot of organic spices and mixes in foil packages. SF’s comment: “Spices and precious metals used to trade on par in ancient times.”

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Retail Sales Suffer Stiff Decline

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"This is a delusion about credit. And whereas from the nature of credit it is to be expected that a certain line will divide the view between creditor and debtor, the irrational fact in this case is that for more than 10 years debtors and creditors together have pursued the same deceptions." – Garet Garret, A Bubble that Broke the World

Notes from JWR:

Congratulations to Tom H., the high bidder in the recent SurvivalBlog benefit auction for 10 steel SA-80 magazines. A new auction begins today, for a new-in-the-box “Big Berky” British Berkefeld water filter, kindly donated by Ready Made Resources, one of our most loyal advertisers. This is a high volume ceramic filter with four replaceable 9″ ceramic filter elements in a sturdy polished stainless steel enclosure. We use this same model here at the Rawles Ranch. Big Berkey filters normally sell for $324, plus postage. The opening bid is just $80. (The winning bid includes free shipping in the US.) Please e-mail us your bid, in $10 increments. Be sure to visit the Ready Made Resources web site and check out their broad line of photovoltaic power components and their wide variety of food storage and preparedness products. They have it all, at great prices!

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Water Considerations for WTSHTF, by Terry M.

When prepping for WTSHTF, many times we focus on how much dehydrated food we have stored. While dehydrated foods can have a very important part in our plans, we have to remember
that almost all that food needs water. Water you may not have accounted for in your plans. The following quantity figures were taken straight from the Walton Feed web site, a very popular source of dehydrated foods.
Feeding a family of four
Breakfast:
Pancakes = 2.5 cups water
Milk = 1 quart water
margarine = 4 Tbsp water
egg mix = 3 Tbsp water per egg (4 times)
Lunch:
Bread = varies
peanut butter powder = Tbsp water per Tbsp of peanut butter
jelly = none
orange drink = 1 quart water
Dinner:
Macaroni = at least 1 quart to boil
cheese blend = 1 cup
1 cup green beans = 1 cup water
fruit punch = 1 quart water
Dessert:
Brownie mix = 3/4 cup water
No meats today.
this works out to about 1.5 gallons for one day.
Another quart of water each for drinking makes 2.5 gallons.
Another gallon minimum for cleaning makes 3.5 gallons.
Another gallon minimum for personal hygiene = 4.5 gallons.
We can see it would easily reach 5 gallons of water per day, minimum. This is pretty austere living as far as hygiene and cleaning goes. Even the amount of food is less than what most of us have become used to.
If you had to rely only on the 50 gallons in your hot water heater, you would have less than a 10 day supply. Remember, this is probably going to be the minimum you use per day! Many dehydrated foods will require more water than indicated here. If you have infants or toddlers, you can easily exceed the minimum of one gallon per day for hygiene. (Do you have someplace to clean those dirty diapers?) Ever try to tell your teenage daughter she can’t wash her hair for a week?
Granted some of the above water could be reused. The water used to boil the macaroni could be used to clean up possibly or make fruit punch (hopefully it is strong flavored to mask
the taste.)
Regardless, there probably will be times during SHTF that water is at a premium. We have to be ready to eat with little or no additional water. We need to take a hard look at canned foods where they may allow us to use less water or have their own water included. Most canned vegetables, juices and meats fall into this category. I am not advocating eliminating them entirely from our dehydrated stores, but I am suggesting we cross-fill. Where possible, get both dehydrated and non-dehydrated.
If storage space is an issue, perhaps something like a wall mounted dispensing system from www.pharaohsstorehouse.com is the answer for you. This also allows for automatic rotation
of stores.
Other factors to include are that if you have neighbors family or friends you end up helping, they are going to need water for any dehydrated foods you give them. Do they have anything stored up? Have they already used up all the water in their hot water heater? If you give someone a cup of dehydrated peanut butter in a baggie, then they will immediately know that you have more. If you give them a small typical grocery store packaged bottle of peanut butter, then they just might think its your next to last one. Better to seem just barely better-off than to appear well-off.
This entire discussion can go for pages, and that is not my intent here. My purpose is to get you thinking outside the box. When you think about SHTF, try to think about all of the things that you will need and how they are connected.

Letter Re: Proper Lubrication with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel?

Jim,
I’m wonder if there is someone in the SurvivalBlog readership who has any first hand knowledge about the repercussions of the ultra-low-sulfur diesel (ULSD) fuel that is being mandated by our government. I’ve heard that the sulfur content is being reduced from 500ppm down to 15ppm and that the sulfur in the fuel has a lubricating effect on diesel engines, fuel pumps, injectors, etc. The assertion is that this lowered level will significantly increase wear on older non-ultra-low-sulfur fuel designed diesel engines. I understand that many regions of the country can only get this fuel now and that many farmers, construction companies, etc. have to resort to an additive to insure proper fuel lubrication. Anyone know of an additive that will accomplish this? Also, there is an assertion that because of this fuel there is a difference in produced ash particle dimensions which clogs expensive filters. Any truth here? And finally, there is an assertions that the current oils used in diesel engines, using this reduced sulfur fuel, may not be adequate. Again, any truth? If so what is the proper oil?
I figured that if I heard this, then maybe so have others and they are also confused on this subject. Thank You, – Ken M

JWR Replies: An oil additive will indeed increase ULSD’s viscosity. I’ve seen references to a commercial additive product called Diesel 911. The manufacturer’s web site describes it as having the following benefits:
* Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel compliant. Contains less than 15 parts per million (ppm) sulfur
* De-ices frozen fuel-filters no requirement to change fuel-filters
* Contains Slickdiesel for maximum fuel lubrication protects fuel injectors and pumps against accelerated wear from Low and Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) fuels
* Reliquefies gelled fuel in minutes
* Removes water from fuel system

I suspect that since it is claimed to “remove water” that in addition to oil, this product also contains some alcohol. If you only goal is to increase lubrication, then a bit of less expensive oil–perhaps plain old 10W-40–might do the trick. (Although it might violate some Federal regulation.) Diesel 911 sounds like it has some other worthy attributes that might make it worth buying. A competing product is AMSOIL’s Diesel Concentrate Performance Fuel Additive (ADF). Those are just the two that I’ve heard of. There are sure to be others. Perhaps some SurvivalBlog readers would care to chime in, and suggest a satisfactory and legal low cost (per gallon) ULSD viscosity boosting solution.

Odds ‘n Sods:

SF in Hawaii mentioned this copy of the US Army Field Manual FM 90-7, housed at the GlobalSecurity.org web site. SF’s comment: “Click on the figures in this manual and you’ll see some good examples of defensive obstacles.”

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A Colorado city besieged by copper thieves

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I noticed an interesting thread of discussion in progress at The Claire Files forums, on choosing a gun for bear protection, while horseback.

Notes from JWR:

The high bid is now at $350 in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction for a batch of 10 brand new original Imperial Defence SA-80 (AR-15) steel 30 round rifle magazines. The auction ends at midnight (EST) tonight, so e-mail us your bid soon!

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

You Can Catch More Flies With Honey Than Vinegar, by Adam in Ohio

I started my preparedness journey a few years before Y2K. A friend of mine opened my eyes and both of our families have been adding to our preparations ever since. Unfortunately, looking back over the last 10 year, I have not been able to convince one more person to become better prepared. I am obviously not happy with the results so I have decided this year I will try something different.

I think where I went wrong is being too open about my preparedness journey. I would become very excited about some new aspect of preparedness that I had discovered and would immediately share it with my family and friends. They would respond with polite smiles and pretend to be interested. They would love to talk about the unique books I bought or all the guns I have. But it would always be a big joke. I will never live down all the jokes that started when they found out I bought The Humanure Handbook. The jokes start up every spring when I start my garden. And no, I don’t recycle my own waste. I just wanted the book.

I have learned that some people will never be open to the survivalist mindset. And I have made the mistake too many times in giving the whole load to people who are not ready. Emotionally many people can not handle it. Many times I can see the fear that begins to rise up in them. But instead of moving to the logical next step of “what do I need to do to solve this problem”, they choose to avoid this stressful train of thought because it is easier to believe I’m just crazy. I now realize that my method of trying to convince others to prepare has inadvertently opened my family to danger. Guess who’s house they joke about going to if TSHTF! What was I thinking?

This year I have a new plan. I am now going to downplay the survivalist stigma and promote what I do as a wise financial investment instead. I work in the banking industry and with it comes relationships with many business professionals. They understand money. I am building a new house and it is drawing some attention mainly because the same family and friends that loved to tell everyone about my unique books love to tell others about my unique house that is being built. I am investing quite a bit of money in solar air and water heaters and [photovoltaic] solar panels. But instead of promoting it as a good way to prepare, I have a break down on how renewable energy will save me money. The solar installers have a computer program that breaks down all the monetary figures and it’s great for showing to others that are interested. My line now is that I just want to diversify my long term investments. My friends understand numbers and spread sheets so this makes sense to them. I don’t rave about Peak Oil anymore I just explain that I believe oil prices are going to increase substantially and the more they increase the better the return on my renewable energy investment.

I am building a homestead on 40 acres of mixed pastures and woods. Next year I am hoping to move beyond just owning horses and add cattle, goats and chickens. I don’t have much experience with livestock except what I have read in books. So I am planning to take a couple of classes this fall at the Ohio State Agricultural Technical Institute. It’s amazing all the great classes they offer. The reason I give people for my desire for owning livestock–I am a city banker after all– is all the organic food my family currently buys. It is really expensive. Goat milk is almost $4 per quart here! So growing my own food is a great way to save money. It’s also a fun hobby and good exercise. Along with canning or freezing the produce from our large organic garden, we can save a lot. I don’t banter any more on the need to stock up. I would rather them see the joy of having a full pantry of healthy foods and how I save money doing it.

Now that I am finally going to live in the country and not just visit my land on weekends I am going to get two 550 gallon fuel tanks; one diesel and one gasoline. Since I’m not a real farmer like others in the area this could look weird, but again this can make financial sense if explained correctly. With the high fluctuation of gas prices I fill up the storage tanks when the price is low and use it up when the price at the pump is high. I’ll throw out how many hundreds of dollars I save by doing this.

The older I get the more I realize I need to package things a little different. The old saying comes to mind that “you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar”. Maybe the honey will work better than the vinegar I have used over the years and I can finally take a few interested friends to the next level. If nothing else when TSHTF I think it would be better to be known as a penny pincher than that crazy survivalist. – Adam in Ohio

JWR Adds: To both prevent thievery in hard times and to decrease fire danger, I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers opt for underground fuel storage tanks. You might consider hiring contractors from 50+ miles away, rather than locals. Ditto for when you have the tanks filled the first time, especially if the tanks are unusually large. If you are clever, it isn’t very difficult to conceal the tank filler and pump handle “heads”. I have one friend that concealed his by torching out the back of an old upright chest freezer. The freezer laying on its back next to his barn (along with some other scrap metal items) just looks like “junk.” Since the freezer door’s key lock mechanism still works, it prevents curious kids from looking inside. (And it also eliminates the risk of an “attractive nuisance” lawsuit.) Another friend bought some wooden wine barrels that had been cut in half for use as decorative planters. An inverted half-barrel covers the tank’s pump handle and hose. Another half barrel sits on top of the “base” barrel. This upper barrel has had a false bottom partition built into it, making it look like it is full of soil, when the soil is actually only 6″ deep. This barrel is planted with wildflowers each summer. To access the pump handle and hose, it takes just a few moments to set aside the 30 pound top barrel and flip over the base.

Letter Re: The Formulary Book Mentioned in the Novel “Patriots”

Mr. Rawles:
First, I’d like to thank you for your novel “Patriots”. I bought it and read [the 31 chapter edition] in 2002, and loved it. I implemented many of your suggestions, and have my bug out bags prepared and ready. I especially have medical supplies on hand.

I have been trying to remember the name and author of a “formulary” book I believe you mention in Patriots. You said it was out of print but showed how to make things like paint, if you had no paint. You said it was a fixture on American farms at the turn of the 20th century. I would look in my copy of Patriots for this, but it is packed with my bug out items in a special safe place away from my home, so I can’t just quickly go get it. Please let me know the title of this “formulary” so that I can be looking for a copy. Thanks! – Pamela G. in Oregon

JWR Replies: I believe that you are referring to Kurt Saxon’s book: “Granddad’s Wonderful Book of Chemistry”, which is primarily a reprint of he classic formulary “Dick’s Encyclopedia“, circa 1872. Saxon also assembled a dictionary of old fashioned chemical terms and synonyms and included it in the front of his reprint. This is worth its weight in gold. (Having an old formulary is great, but if you don’t know that “oil of mirbane” is now called nitro-benzene, then a lot of formulary knowledge verges on useless.) Kurt has some far-our political beliefs which, as a Christian, I find abhorrent. (Kurt Saxon is an atheist and a eugenicist.) But if you skip past those rantings, all of his books are great references. I’ve heard that a few of his hard copy books are now out of print, but that they are all still available on CD-ROM.

OBTW, if you search through used book stores, you will occasionally find other old formulary book from the late 1800s. Buy them when you find them. They are treasure troves of useful arcana!

Some special notes of caution on home chemistry: Use extreme care whenever working with chemicals–even when doing something as basic as making soap. Always wear full goggles, long sleeves, and gloves. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Wear a respirator mask, when appropriate. Always keep an A-B-C fire extinguisher handy. Keep an emergency eyewash bottle handy. When working with a chemical that could burn your skin, be prepared with a bucket of water (if appropriate) or the appropriate neutralizer. Never use any of your regular kitchen utensils, containers, or measuring instruments when working with chemicals. (Have a dedicated set, and clearly mark them as such!) Never work alone. Study reactivity tables, and always keep them in mind. Whenever working with anything flammable or potentially explosive, always work with minute quantities for your experiments. Keep in mind that 19th Century safety standards were considerably more relaxed than today’s, so old formularies often omit safety warnings. Always remember that exposure to some substances such as lead, mercury, and carbon monoxide are insidious and cumulative. FWIW, I’m not putting forth all these strong warnings simply to cover my assets from a lawsuit. I really sincerely mean them, since I’ve “been there, done that”, and caught my hair on fire a time or two.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Almighty God…I yield thee humble and hearty thanks that thou has preserved me from the danger of the night past, and brought me to the light of the day, and the comforts thereof, a day which is consecrated to thine own service and for thine own honor. Let my heart, therefore, Gracious God, be so affected with the glory and majesty of it, that I may not do mine own works, but wait on thee, and discharge those weighty duties thou requirest of me. Give me grace to hear thee calling on me in thy word, that it may be wisdom, righteousness, reconciliation and peace to the saving of the soul in the day of the Lord Jesus. Grant that I may hear it with reverence, receive it with meekness, mingle it with faith, and that it may accomplish in me, Gracious God, the good work for which thou has sent it. Bless my family, kindred, friends and country, be our God and guide this day and for ever for His sake, who lay down in the Grave and arose again for us, Jesus Christ our Lord, Amen." – From the Prayer Journal of George Washington

Note from JWR:

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Older Chevy 4X4s: The Ideal EMP-Proof Survival Vehicles, by Vlad

The ideal survival vehicle is a 4×4, 3/4 ton made by GMC or Chevrolet. They are easy to work on, old enough to be cheap, new enough to get parts for and, tough enough to last.
My 1976 GMC 4×4 3/4 ton pickup has 300,000+ plus miles. Maintenance = reliability. It has V8 350, 4 speed standard shift, 4.10 axles, dual-range transfer case, manual hubs. In Low range first gear I have crept up and down icy mountain roads with perfect confidence — and V-bar chains on all four wheels.
Between the steel line from the gas tank, and the mechanical fuel pump, I installed a piece of new neoprene gas hose with two in-line fuel filters in tandem. This serves to capture grit that would abrade, and shorten the service life of, the fuel pump diaphragm; and otherwise clog the moving parts inside the fuel pump. Between the output side of the mechanical fuel pump and the intake of the carburetor I installed a long piece of neoprene gas line, with one inline fuel filter, secured where it will not touch the exhaust manifold.
At the front of the block, near the mechanical fuel pump, there is a hole threaded 3/8×16. Screw a 3/8×16 bolt in that hole to secure the fuel pump push rod. Remove the old fuel pump. Now is the best time to install neoprene lines and in-line fuel filters as described above. Install new fuel pump. Remove 3.8×16 bolt before you start the engine.
I swapped the high energy ignition (HEI) with a [microprocessor] electronic module) for a [traditional and EMP-proof ] points-type distributor. The HEI distributor is $200 and points-type distributor is $50. I replaced Quadra-Jet 4 barrel carburetor with an Edelbrock 1405 4 bbl carb, and bought a calibration kit. I can change jets and rods for anything from max power in axle-deep mud to economy cruise at high altitude. Just now I have it calibrated for 6,000 foot elevation. In East Texas 400 foot elevation at 65 mph I average 12.5 mpg.
My carb flooded. The engine would not start. I disassembled the carb on my tailgate and found a defective float. I replaced both floats (from my tool box), reassembled the carb and drove home.
In my truck toolbox I carry at all times a starter, alternator, fuel pump, complete distributor; extra points, condenser and rotor; and hand tools …as well as food, a rifle or two, two axes, and a daypack with a few goodies. If you ain’t got it with you it could be a long walk to get it.
I use the alternator but have a generator; and installed a wire-wound voltage regulator. The generator stays in my toolbox. It takes only minutes to bolt the generator in place.
Chevrolet part number 3814970, right exhaust manifold, has a place to mount the generator. It fits all Chevy/GMC small block V8 ’73 thru ’86. You can order a new one from your dealer.
A generator-equipped vehicle with standard transmission will roll-start without a starter or a battery. If the battery is missing, secure the positive battery cable clamp where it cannot possibly ground. Tape it to a heater hose. Roll start and go!
An alternator must be electrically energized to produce electric current. If your truck has an alternator you must have a battery.
Avoid automatic transmissions. Since around 1960 [US built] automatic transmission vehicles will not push start.
We can thank Big Brother for the many changes in automotive design. Electromagnetic pulse (EMP) from a nuclear detonation 400 miles above earth will destroy all unshielded electronic parts in line-of-sight. …… the electronic components in Electronic-Fuel Injection, alternators, telephones, radios, televisions, computers, watches, GPS……..etc
In 1945 we nuked Hiroshima and Nagasaki. At that time all vehicles had carburetors, generators with wire-wound voltage regulators, and points-type ignition. Vehicle exposed to EMP were still operable. In the early 1950s US conducted nuclear tests in Nevada, and studied effects of nuclear weapons ([including] EMP). Shortly thereafter the generator was replaced with an alternator that has unshielded electronic “chips” ..
If your racy 2007 model Technodazzle stops, call the AAA. Have it towed to the dealer. A highly educated Automotive Diagnostic Technician will attach it to a $100,000 computer to learn which parts to change. Repairs may cost as little as four months pay.
1973 through 1986 Chevy/GMC 4×4 pickup, Blazer and Suburban (seats nine if you wish) have 95% parts interchange. The same carb, fuel pump, alternator, starter fits them all. Every junkyard from Fairbanks to Florida has lots of old Chevy 4x4s.

Procedure for Changing HEI to Traditional Points Ignition on a 1976 GMC/Chevy V8 350:
A picture is worth a 1000 words. At the public library find a Chilton manual for 1974 Chevy/GMC V8 350 and study the engine ignition wiring; and photocopy those pages to use as a guide.
If possible, find someone who drives a 74 or older GMC V8 350 and eyeball his wiring.
buy these parts
– rebuilt points distributor for 1974 GMC V8 350, with cap and rotor
– also buy replacement points, rotor and condenser (for later tune up. each time you use tune up parts, immediately buy replacements for your toolbox for next time.)
– buy the Allen wrench with long handle with which to adjust the points
– set of points-type spark plug wires
– 8 each AC-Delco # 44 spark plugs (Gap them to 0.035″)
– two ballast resistors ( one goes in toolbox for later)
– one coil and coil bracket (you may want to buy an extra coil at this time)
STEP ONE is to read all instructions three times before you do anything else. If possible have an experienced friend oversee your installation.
Begin:
-remove negative battery cable clamp from the alternator bracket.
-tape the negative battery cable to a heater hose (so it cannot ground).
-mount ballast resistor on the firewall.
-mount the coil and bracket on the fire wall below the ballast resistor.
-the (only ) RED wire that presently runs from ignition switch through firewall to your HEI distributor will be connected to the driver side of the ballast resistor. (cut the red wire at a point 3″ from HEI distributor. cut a 15″ inch piece of number 12 insulated wire to extend the RED wire to connect to driver side of ballast resistor.
use a butt connector to connect 15″ wire to red wire. use a spade connector to connect it to ballast resistor.)
-with an 8″ piece of number 12 insulated wire, spade connector on each end, connect passenger side of the ballast resistor to the “plus” ( + ) side of the coil.
-the only black wire hanging out the bottom of the points distributor connects to the
minus ( – ) side of the coil. (it goes from points to minus side of the coil)
For future reference, with a white paint stick, mark a large – and + on the coil. when you are cold, tired and the wind is blowing up your jacket (and your wife is asking if you got it fixed yet) it will help to see those marks and not have to rely on memory.
points distributor cap terminals —
#2 is the first terminal CW of the “door” in the distributor cap where you adjust the points.
firing order is 1 – 8 – 4 -3 – 6- 5- 7 – 2
with masking tape label points distributor cap terminals, HEI distributor terminals, and each HEI spark plug wire near the spark plug.
driver side front to back 1, 3, 5, 7 ….. and passenger side front to back 2, 4, 6, 8;
pull the plug wires off each spark plug but leave them connected to distributor cap.
remove HEI distributor cap with spark plug wires still attached. lay that aside for now.
Note the position of HEI distributor rotor. If it points to 6 o’clock, write on a 3×5 card “rotor to 6 o’clock” and tape that card on inner fender.
-loosen hold-down bolt ( 9/16″ wrench) and remove HEI distributor
-install points distributor with rotor pointing to 6 o’clock (if that is what you wrote on the 3×5 card taped to the inner fender). the points distributor rotor must point exactly as did the HEI distributor rotor.
-hand tighten the hold-down bolt. later you will need to turn the distributor by hand when setting the timing.
you bought new AC 44 plugs and gapped them 0.035″.
-now install the new spark plugs.
-install the points distributor cap.
-install the new plug wires one at a time. using the HEI distributor cap and wires as a guide.
-connect dwell tachometer black clip to ground, red clip to “minus” side of coil
-open the window in the distributor cap, and stick the allen wrench (with long handle) in the points adjust knob.
-connect battery ground cable to alternator bracket.
-remove vacuum hose from distributor, and plug that end of the hose
-with starter turning engine, turn allen wrench to adjust points so dwell reads 30.(book specs 29 to 31)
to set timing:
– with engine idling.
– the vacuum advance hose is still plugged.
– turn distributor CCW to attain maximum idle RPM, then CW to 200 RPM less than maximum
unplug vacuum advance hose. connect unplugged hose to vacuum advance on distributor.
with 9/16″ wrench tighten distributor hold-down bolt.
if engine pings or rattles on acceleration:
— disconnect and plug vacuum advance hose
— connect dwell tachometer, black to ground , red to minus side of coil
— loosen hold-down bolt and turn distributor CCW to max idle RPM, then CW to 300 RPM less than max idle RPM.
–tighten hold-down bolt to secure distributor
— unplug and reconnect vacuum advance hose to distributor

Now let me tell you how we changed points in the shop:
-Since the engine will start if the points gap (which governs dwell angle, the number degrees of distributor rotation that the points remain closed) is close to .024″, we’d install the point set and eyeball the gap to that.
-You can use a matchbook cover if yer eye is out of calibration.
-Then we’d crank it up and slowly turn the adjustment to the point where the engine began to stumble, then back the other way til it began to ping. The correct dwell would be — within limits — at the midpoint between the two.
-Timing can be done the same way mentioned previously but listening for the “ping and stumble” and setting midpoint between.
-When doing timing or dwell by this method, make the adjustment as smoothly as possible to make changes in engine sound more easily detectable. Keeping the distributor clamp screw just finger snug will make this easier when doing the timing.
-I toss this on the pile because there will be times when ya just do no have a dwell [meter/]tachometer in your pocket and have to change out ignition components that require adjustment. Get in tune with the pitch and sound of a properly tuned engine running at idle.
When I was doing this stuff regularly in my shop (I once was an automotive masochistic), I could by ear tell engine speed within 50 RPM — no BS on this. If you are serious about this stuff, get intimate with your vehicle.

Packing ’73-’86 GMC/Chevy 3/4 ton 4×4 front wheel bearings:
As always read instructions three times before you do anything else. You will need a metal pie plate and large magnet
– place magnet in center of pie plate.
– place small parts on magnet. (they will be there when you look for them)
special 3/8″ drive socket for castellated nut inside hub
3/8″ allen wrench
3/8″ drive breaker bar
3/8 x 16 x 3″ bolt
-wheel bearing grease
-spindle grease seal
-hub grease seals
— chock rear wheel front and back
— loosen front wheel lug nuts
— raise front of truck on jack
— place stands under axle housing
— remove front wheel
— with 3/8 allen wrench remove bolts that secure brake caliper
( place bolts on magnet in pie plate)
— remove brake caliper and secure it without stretching or kinking brake hose
— remove hub
— with snap ring pliers remove snap ring
— with special socket remove outer castellated nut
— remove the washer (++ note that it has a pin that fits into a hole in the inner castellated nut)
— remove inner castellated nut
— remove rotor
— remove the six nuts that secure the spindle
— remove the spindle. it may be necessary to tap spindle with a brass hammer to remove it . do not use a steel hammer as that will mar the spindle-remove oil seal on inner side of rotor
-remove inner wheel bearing. wash it in solvent. dry it. apply new grease. put a golf ball size lump of grease in the palm of your left hand. place new bearing on the lump of grease. place right hand over left. squeeze hands together to force grease into the new bearing.
-place greased new bearing in the inner side of rotor. place new oil seal. with a brass hammer, or wooden handle very gently tap around the seal seating it.
-remove oil seal from spindle. remove old spindle bearing. grease and install new spindle bearing, install new spindle seal. A note on reassembly: Screw the 3/8x16x3″ bolt into the threaded hole in the end of the axle. pull outward on the axle so you can get the snap ring on.
PS: Buy new wheel bearings and spindle bearings and seals to keep in reserve. Open each package. Grease the new bearings. Wrap them and put them back in the package. This will serve to keep them from rusting; and allow you to install greased bearings in the field. Keep the new bearings and seals in the toolbox on your truck.

Odds ‘n Sods:

InyoKern flagged this piece about Mexico from The Oil Drum. InyoKern’s notes: “The graphs in the comments section are nails in the coffin, too. Have a look and read the comments. Its rather nauseating because its [coming] so soon. We thought we’d have a year or two before things got weird there, yet conditions for collapse in Mexico are getting pre-emptive. “

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Charles G. sent us this: Manhattan [New York City] parking spot going for $225,000. Charles comments: “Note the 3rd to last paragraph: ‘Some people are buying parking spots even if they don’t own cars, but instead buy the spaces as investments, renting them out to cover their costs.’ I remember Robin Williams once saying that “A cocaine habit is God’s way of telling you that you have too much money.” What should we make of this, I wonder? We have the most distorted economy in recorded human history, don’t we?”

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Some stark ranching economics: Central Utah cattlemen worry about how to feed livestock now that fire has ravaged the range

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I note that spot silver has bounced back above $13 per ounce, just as I predicted. I hope that some of you are buying on the dips, as I’ve suggested . Those of you that bought silver when I pointed out that it was a bargain when it touched $4.25 per ounce have made a pile of money. Even those of you that bought silver when I mentioned silver was $7, $8, and $9 per ounce have made handsome profits. But here is a news flash for you. We are still witnessing the opening phase of a bull market that will propel silver past $50 per ounce. Now that silver is $13 per ounce, don’t feel that you’ve “missed the boat.” Just buy on the next dip, and stay for the long haul. Someday, you’ll be glad that you did.