Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Selecting and Assembling Web Gear

Mr. Rawles,
Thank you very much for your web site. I have been reading it every day for the last two months. It is a wealth of knowledge. Read your book as well. I have been researching food, water et cetera for quite a while and your site has helped a great deal. My family will be quite prepared for whatever in short order. The one thing that ha me confused is web gear/tac vest/ALICE gear. In your book you refer to a certain type of web gear but I am having trouble putting all of the pieces together. I am ex-Coast Guard and not at all familiar with land gear. What web gear goes with what pack and belt, et cetera? Can you help me with a list of compatible gear or recommend a book or manual? Thanks, – Kurt in Washington

JWR Replies: There are umpteen opinions out there on web gear, so take the following as just one man’s view. Although they are currently all the rage, I am not a fan of load bearing vests. I still primarily use the old tried-and-true ALICE gear, although I have upgraded from the traditional “Y” suspender harness to the more heavily-padded Eagle Industries Ranger “H”-harness.

The new modular MOLLE (spoken “Molly”) vests are more versatile than the older-generation Woodland camouflage vests that have stitched-in magazine pouches, but I prefer having nearly everything handy at belt level. I’ve found that it is slow and cumbersome to get magazines in an out of pouches that are any higher than my solar plexus. So that is why I’m still an ALICE LC-2 vintage dinosaur. But as they say, “Your mileage may vary” (YMMV).

Adding body armor to the equation changes things considerably, since full Interceptor Body Armor (IBA) with a MICH helmet weighs anywhere from 19 to 25 pounds, depending on sizes and how many add-on pieces–such as upgraded SAPI plates–are included. And keep in mind that those figures do not include the weight of ammo, magazines, a full hydration bladder, and various wunderkind gadgets. When wearing non-concealment body armor, a load bearing vest/carrier does make sense. Talk to the folks at BulletProofMe.com (one of our advertisers) for details on getting set up with body armor, pouches, and hydration systems that are practical and comfortable. As I’ve mentioned before, fitting is crucial with body armor, so talk with an experienced dealer with a big inventory and responsive customer service policies that can fit you properly.

Here is a brief overview on the older ALICE generation US military web gear. Greater detail can be found in FM 21-15, “Care And Use Of Individual Clothing And Equipment”, which can often be found at Amazon.com, Midway, GR8Gear.com, and LoadUp.com

Here is a PDF of a Fact Sheet on the latest MOLLE generation US military web gear. Since this is the era of the high tech Stryker soldier, most of the “documentation” for MOLLE gear is actually in the form of instructional DVDs. Oddly, I’ve never seen these DVDs for sale in the civilian world. (But no doubt the Airsoft Mall Ninjas have a secret distribution system, via Bit Torrents or some such.)

The majority of ALICE and MOLLE items will interchange–meaning that in most instances you can clip an ALICE magazine pouch onto a MOLLE vest, or attach a MOLLE pouch onto a ALICE belt. Don’t be worried about mismatched colors or camouflage patterns. Practical civilian survival “ain’t a beauty contest.” In real world camouflage, randomness is a good thing. Anyone that tries to tell you that all your gear has to be “color coordinated” is a poseur.

Both ALICE and MOLLE gear is available from U.S. Cavalry Store. (BTW, if you follow that link then we’ll get a little piece of the action when you order.)



Letter Re: Soft Nose Loads for Battle Rifles

Dear James:
Having recently acquired two M14 pattern rifles and some reloading equipment, I was interested to read yesterday’s article on using soft point ammunition in battle rifles. As a Canadian citizen, my main battle rifle options were quite limited. Firstly, our misguided “gun control” legislation prohibits civilian ownership of most main battle rifles; FALs, CETMEs, G3s and the like are all “prohibited firearms”. However, semi-automatic M14 variants, such as the M1A and Norinco/Polytech M14 clones, are “non-restricted firearms” and can be bought with ease, used for hunting purposes, etc. (traditional wood stocked appearances apparently can deceive gun control bureaucrats). Secondly, the fact that in Canada the Norinco M-14S/M-305 semi-auto M14 clones sell for $400-500 as opposed to $1,800-2,000 for [Springfield Armory] M1As is quite compelling; one can buy two Norinco M14S’s, plus reloading gear, plus a few hundred rounds of ammunition for the cost of a single M1A. [JWR Adds: Be advised that a good portion of the Chinese M14S production has suffered from insufficiently heat-treated (“soft”) bolts and some very bad bolt geometry. Clint McKee at Fulton Armory recommends replacing both their bolts and barrels. The result will be a reliable rifle.]

Reloading for Norinco M14S’s is quite popular north of the border. I’d recommend this site as a guide for those interested in reloading for the M14.

Two rules that I now follow when reloading for my Norinco M14S’s is to always use CCI primers; they are harder than the competition’s primers and indent less upon chambering. Given the M14 pattern rifle’s robust design, they do not require soft-primered cartridges to function. The difference in indentation on chambering between CCI primers and Winchester primers is visible to the naked eye. I never had a slam-fire with the 300 rounds I loaded using Winchester primers, but having seen the difference with the CCI primers, I now use CCI exclusively. Secondly, when reloading .308 brass for my M-14S’s, I load conservatively, replicating the M80 [standard ball] 7.62 load (although I eventually plan to experiment with replicating M118 and M852), which is below maximums for .308 Winchester, and carefully inspect each case before reloading it. It goes without saying that handloading is an activity that demands extreme care and meticulousness.

[JWR Adds: Keep in mind when working up “GI Ball” 150 grain soft nose equivalents (or “GI Match” 168 grain soft nose equivalents) that because of the thicker brass used with military 7.62 mm NATO cases, the case volumes differ considerably from civilian .308 Winchester brass.]

Lastly, I’d like to say thank you for all the energy and devotion that you’ve put into running SurvivalBlog. It’s been a daily read for me since I discovered it a few years ago, and I routinely recommend it to friends. It’s provided invaluable guidance to me in my preparations. Best Regards, – A Somewhat Prepared Canadian.



Odds ‘n Sods:

American Fork [, Utah] Man Is Food Storage Fanatic

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Rod M. sent us a link to this tongue-in-cheek piece from Australia on the resurgence of survivalism: Where is The Safest Place on Earth? BTW, the article includes mention of our spin-off web site, SurvivalRealty.com

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Several readers sent this: Mormons prepared for hard times. While I’ll never see eye-to-eye with the LDS church doctrinally, I highly commend them for their food storage policy and their extensive cannery and bishop’s warehouse infrastructures.

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Another huge batch of economic news and commentary from Cheryl: One Third of US Banks May Fail or Merge In 2009Fed Grants Request to Make GMAC a Bank Holding Company32,000 UK Realtors Jobs Wiped OutEconomy on Knife-Edge as Japan Faces Deflation FearsRetailers Foresee Dire 2009British GDP Drops Faster than 1940sGas Prices Drift to 58-Month LowJoel Skousen: 2008 in ReviewFinancial Markets and Economic Potpourri December 26, 2008Insolvent Financial System Signals Higher GoldFamilies Turning to Insurance Fraud to Beat Credit CrunchEconomists Who Called it Right & Predictions for 2009Crackdown on Bailed-Out Banks (But will the legislation go retroactive?) — Housing Has its Worst Monthly Price Drop in 20 Years



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"And the LORD shall guide thee continually, and satisfy thy soul in drought, and make fat thy bones: and thou shalt be like a watered garden, and like a spring of water, whose waters fail not." – Isaiah 58:11



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 20 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The contest prizes include:

First Prize: The writer of the best contributed article will be awarded two transferable Front Sight  “Gray” Four Day Training Course Certificates. This is an up to $4,000 value!
Second Prize: A three day course certificate from OnPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses.
Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing

Round 20 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.



The “Prepper-Lawyer” by The Fourth Whirlwind

I have been deeply perplexed ever since first beginning to read SurvivalBlog. Every night, while the wife and new baby daughter slept in peace, I have thought about my lack of tangible knowledge. Sure, I have many skills over a variety of useful tasks in our everyday lives, and even some that would help my family survive in a bad situation. But, when we have to be brutally honest with ourselves, self-doubt can get the best of us. I say this now because it was reading the highly useful SurvivalBlog that brought on this doubt for me. I wanted to be able to contribute, but doing that means you have to actually know something useful for others to consider in their preparations. The essay contest at SurvivalBlog has reminded me to be more vigilant in learning the right skills-the ones that my mother’s generation stopped teaching us (or we were not listening). The site and community here has triggered me to ask myself, “What do I know well enough to actually write about?” I believe we should all self-reflect; it may give us strength now for when our families will need it most.

But this essay is about something else. This essay is a thought experiment in reminding ourselves of what not to forget in any horrendous situation that might occur where people depend on our foresight and fortitude to survive. What is it that we must never forget? That we are a nation of laws, not men. Let me explain, and it will be shown that what I write about is indeed a skill. A skill that all of us will need to insure the long-term survival of our families, nations, and world, no matter how bad it gets.

Here is a hypothetical: A worst-case nuclear scenario. Multiple hits. Fallout. It could be worse-but you prepared. You covered all the bases, down to the last pound of hard wheat and fully stocked ammo cans. You have a shelter that helped you survive the initial effects. You find the government fails and falls. For a time, you are secure with the skills and supplies you have, and your family lives on. Very quickly, though, things begin to deteriorate into lawlessness. I am not just talking about hordes of zombies running rampant; I am talking about every institution that you staked your survival on being gone. That survival retreat you bought has no more boundaries-it is open to all who wish to take it-even once friendly neighbors you never knew you had. I am talking about the threatened existence of private property. What do you do?

What about justice for the weak and the wicked? It cannot always come at the end of a smoking barrel. I have as many guns as the next guy and train with them-but real law comes only when we can make promises and keep our word. At the root of every law in our land lies a promise- a promise to do or not to do something-and another person that makes the same commitment. It is called a compromise.

What about a court system to enforce these promises? Sure, as citizens we often lament the court system as it applies to our everyday lives. Sometimes its because we do not understand its complexity-and it is complex-but other times it is because the system actually does do wrong to someone. Nonetheless, it is a necessary evil if we are to live in a truly free community and nation. Do not misunderstand me-I am a libertarian to the core, not a pro-big government full of too many laws type. I write these words hesitantly only after substantial thought of how to protect my family in the long-term. That is where the skill enters the fray.

The skills I believe are critical for all of our survival include negotiation, objective legal analysis, compromise, and institution-building. I am not going to detail here how best to create a judicial system or government out of the proverbial ashes. What I will discuss are the basics of thinking about problems we will have post-TEOTWAWKI in a way that really insures our long-term family and community survival. At some point, supplies will run low, skirmishes will occur (either between neighbors or communities), and arguments over what is whose and who promises what will prevail. How will you deal with these situations?

I am a soon-to-graduate law student, and will be a high-level litigator for lawsuits against the government. I attend a powerful law school that breeds politicians and world leaders at the highest levels of government-and that is all I will say in the service of relative anonymity. My essay here addresses the topic with the skill and reality of a lawyer-not someone merely interested in reading books about law or statutes of gun laws. Let me make this very clear: The law is not black and white. It is gray-and this is why lawyers have jobs. It is gray because it is a human endeavor. This is why you must be able to deal with human beings! You must be able, in any survival situation, to make everyone feel like they have gotten their fair shake at the table. You have to be able to negotiate, analyze without emotion, and compromise. If you do not acquire these delicate skills, you will not survive very long. People in your community will not deal with you. If you do have these skills, you can quickly become the go-to person for resolving disputes, whether local or not. No matter what happens to our present world (excluding religiously based predictions), people will eventually congregate again and begin to bargain. Eventually those bargains will get more complicated. Eventually martial law on anything is sight will have to give way to civil and political discourse. You must be able to do this. Before anyone discounts any of the preceding words as not a “survival” skill per se, or not an OPSEC consideration, I point to the founding fathers of this country. They were revolutionaries, patriots, but many were also lawyers. And our country was born. I hope I have conveyed the importance of the skills I outline. They are not just for lawyers that many seem to have a dislike for.

Negotiation
: The first step to a successful negotiation is trust between the parties involved. Simple steps can be taken to do this. Say two neighbors are fighting over a property line-but the court burned with all the recorded deeds and surveys. Even if the property owners have their own copies, who will enforce it? What if one has more ammo than the other? Uh-oh! If you are involved and take a leadership role this can be resolved and you keep your family out of a cross-fire. So, establish that both parties can trust you, even if they don’t trust each other. Some of this should have already been done before a disaster-that is, you, as a preparedness-minded individual should have already shown yourself to be a trustworthy and fair citizen. Of course, bad OPSEC would require you to allow all neighbors to know your exact preparations. You don’t have to do that. By simply respecting the rights of your neighbors now you have established some trust to use later. Other ways of establishing that you are fair and trustworthy come in the form of charity, as always discussed on this site, and in being straightforward even when it does not benefit you. This is perhaps the fastest way to becoming a successful negotiator. If you have done right by others, and these two neighbors begin to involve you in their dispute, it is time for step two: Establish the outer limits of what both parties want. In the property line dispute, you would resort to your skills at reading surveys (if the parties have them), and use that knowledge to see where both parties want their line to be. As an aside, this could be just a land transfer where the parties both want to readjust boundaries but argue over payment, etc… I say this because this article is meant to trigger your own assessment skills and apply them to a variety of possible scenarios. Once you have established the outer bounds of what the parties want, it is time to figure out a way to do step three: Convince the parties, or even better, allow the parties to convince themselves, of why settlement is in their best interests (and yours, because you don’t want to be involved in an escalating situation). This is where your own style and finesse plays a determining factor. Be creative. Once these three steps are accomplished, you are on your way to becoming the local negotiator! Resolving disputes by negotiation is precisely the kind of skill every “prepper” should be adept at:

Compromise: This skill is related to negotiation, but I classify it separately because I define (for this article only) a negotiation as you acting as agent between two other parties. Compromise, on the other hand, involves you as one of the parties. This makes it much more difficult because we have personal interests at stake. In these scenarios, it is critical to have a developed sense of legal analysis. This is a loaded term, but for our purposes it means to see a problem as a problem-not a problem that affects you. Step away mentally and see the other person’s argument. Try to understand them and what they want. Yes, what they want might be something you’ll never give, but in order to develop a strategy you must understand what you are strategizing against! The next step in effective compromise is to offer your fair solution and then ask the other party to offer theirs. Even if no one thinks this will yield results, what else is there to do? Argue and elevate a situation? If nothing else, actually doing the repetitive act of offering solutions to each other will postpone a violent conflict long enough for you to gain a short-term tactical advantage. At best, it may actually yield a compromise you both can live with.

The aforementioned skills of negotiation and compromise are only meant to be a primer for further thought by all SurvivalBlog readers. I thought it important to contribute a few ideas on what will ensure our true long-term survival in any situation. As a parting thought, imagine the worst-case scenario. The constitution of this country has been dissolved. Awhile down the road, you are called upon to go to a convention. Would you have the skills to ensure your rights, and the rights of your countrymen, are again enshrined in a new founding document? Think about it long and hard. I think about it every evening with a .45 discreetly hidden near the desk I use to study Law for a living.

Our country will need you. Thomas Jefferson pioneered the ideal of a “citizen-lawyer,” and our nation was founded upon the idea that all persons were equally responsible in ensuring the proper functioning of the government. The “citizen-lawyer” does not have to be a lawyer-indeed, Jefferson meant it to apply to all equally. I believe that the preparedness-minded individual is uniquely situated to appreciate the need for the skills I have addressed here. Without them, our ammo and food would run out…and that is it. Run out. Do you want that to be the end result of your preparations?



Letter Re: Soft Nose Loads for Battle Rifles

Jim,
I’ve only been reading your blog for a short time, but I find it both interesting and informative.

Having been a hunter for the last 56 of my 64 years, I do wonder why anyone who plans on getting out of Dodge and heading for the woods would want a battle rifle with ball ammo when we won’t be bound by anything like the Hague Convention as to the ammo we use. Seems to me, that soft points would be a better choice and if the SHTF. My M1A will be traveling with me and will be loaded with hunting ammo.

My personal choice, if I could only carry one firearm, would be a 12 gauge shotgun with rifle sights. With slugs, it’s good to over 100 yards for big game and men, with 00 or 000 [buckshot shells] it’s great for self defense and you don’t have to be all that good a shot, and #6 shot works well for smaller game. I came very close to using mine this year on elk because my grandkids scammed my .308 and 30-06 for their elk hunt and I don’t have anything else that’s legal for hunting.

Forting up in our home [in the city] also seems like sure death if those who mean us harm are intent on doing so and have a pint of gasoline and a match, so hitting the road for a less urban environment sounds like the best thing to plan for.

At any rate, I like your site and it has been added to my favorites. – Don J.

JWR Replies: I was an M1A owner for more than 25 years, before recently switching to L1A1 (inch pattern FAL) rifles. I switched only because the cost of spare magazines and spare parts for M1As was becoming prohibitive. (An original USGI M14 parts set (everything except a receiver) now costs in excess of $1,200, and I just recently saw one advertised for $1,500!)

You are correct that in most defensive shooting situations, there will be no need to penetrate armor, and the mushrooming effect of soft nose ammo will be preferable. However, I recommend the use of soft nose ammo for .308 battle rifles only for handloaders. Let me explain my rationale: Military 7.62 NATO brass is not identical to civilian .308 Winchester brass. It has a thicker case head, and is hence more robust. Military ammunition is also loaded with less sensitive “hard ” primers, that differ from civilian primers. Also, some civilian .308 loads exceed the military pressure specifications for 7.62 NATO. The following is a quote from the M1A manual PDF available at the Springfield Armory web site:

“The M1A is designed and built to specifications to shoot standard factory military 7.62 NATO ammunition. The specifications for standard military ammunition include harder primers to withstand the slight indentation from the firing pin when the bolt chambers a cartridge. This slight indentation is normal. The use of civilian ammunition with more sensitive primers or hand loads with commercial primers and/or improperly seated primers increase the risk of primer detonation when the bolt slams forward. This unexpected “slam fire” can occur even if the trigger is not being pulled and if the safety is on. Use of military specification ammunition will help avoid this.”

The most cost effective approach to providing soft nose ammo for 7.62mm NATO battle rifle is to use a collet-type reloading press bullet puller, and pull the FMJ projectiles from standard 150 grain 7.62 NATO ball ammo. Then re-seat 150 grain spire point (“spitzer”) civilian soft nose .308 bullets, such my old favorite, the Sierra 150 grain spitzer boat-tail. Repeat, repeat x 1000. This is time consuming, but it will give you appropriate soft nose loads with safe pressure an safe primers for your M1A, and it will save you about 30% on the cost of commercially-loaded ammo. Technically, this is still “handloading”, so it will void your warranty, but you’ll have safe and cost-effective loads that will mushroom on impact.



Odds ‘n Sods:

Frequent contributor Bill N. mentioned an interesting site on off-road driving. Bill’s comment: “The guy teaches 4WD recovery procedures and has several articles posted on his web site. I read his one on Hi-Lift jacks and learned some things.”

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KAF was the first of several readers to send us this: Homeland Security forecasts five-year terror threats

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Justin and Jeff both sent this, from The Wall Street Journal: Fourth Quarter Retail Sales Plummet.

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Reader Dan. H. mentioned this photovoltaic power system in the San Juan Island archipelago in Washington that includes hydrogen storage tanks and fuel cells.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Liberty must at all hazards be supported. We have a right to it, derived from our Maker. But if we had not, our fathers have earned and bought it for us, at the expense of their ease, their estates, their pleasure, and their blood." – John Adams, A Dissertation on the Canon and Feudal Law, 1765



Letter Re: Advice in Storing Extra Gasoline in Cans at Home

JWR,
Thanks so much for Survival Blog. It’s been an invaluable resource to me and my family as we prepare for what’s coming. This is the first time I’ve ever emailed you, but it’s with a question that I haven’t been able to find a good answer to elsewhere. I’m hoping you’ll share your advice.

With the price of gas so low right now, I’m thinking it would be prudent to stock up. I’d like to have some on hand at my house to run the generator for small events like snowstorms and such, but I’d also like to have extra gas around to take with me should the need to G.O.O.D. arises (to extend the range of my bug out vehicle). My problem is that I’m in a typical suburban neighborhood so my only option for gas storage is really my garage. I don’t have room to build a shed far away from the house. On top of that, I have a [natural gas] water heater with a pilot light in the garage. It’s 18 inches off the ground on a wooden platform (supposedly to keep it away from heavier-than-air gas fumes) but it still makes me uncomfortable.

My question is this: Is it safe to store 20 gallons or so of gas (treated with Sta-Bil) in approved 5 gallon plastic containers in my garage? If not, what is the safest way to store gas? I’ve thought about putting the plastic containers in a small plastic storage unit in my backyard, but my house gets southern exposure so the storage unit will heat up a lot during the summer months, which I know is probably not safe either. Any ideas? Thanks and blessings, – Alex H.

JWR Replies: First and foremost: Do not store any gasoline in can in an attached garage! As I illustrated my novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse”, ounce-for-ounce, fuel-air mixtures can be some of the most potent explosives imaginable.

If you live on a postage stamp-sized city lot and don’t have room for a detached shed to store gasoline, then your best bet is to ask a friend that lives outside of city limits–or at least on a much larger lot with room for a detached shed–to store some gas cans for you. But there are some clever alternatives for someone that doesn’t mind a bit of digging and has basic carpentry skills. The first is digging a concealed cache for some gas cans, covered by a stout platform (deck/walkway), or wide paving stones (often available free on Craigslist). Another method that requires a less stout “lid” is buried cache under a Japanese arched bridge. (One of my consulting clients did this when he re-landscaped his suburban back yard. The cache has a sheet of marine grade plywood for a lid, covered by gravel. The bridge and the lid beneath it can easily be moved to access the cans. Make it look decorative and “Zen”, and few will ever guess what lies beneath.) Yet another option is to build what looks like a typical raised planter box, but make it actually a tray with soil only 3 or 4 inches deep. That way you’ll only have to dig a trench for the cans that is one foot deep. Just be advised that from all reports storing gas cans underground works well only if your property has a low water table and only if you use plastic fuel cans. (My favorites, Scepter cans, are sadly now banned from civilian sale (but not ownership) in the US, but are still available in Canada.) OBTW, don’t try an underground gas storage approach with steel “Jerry” or “Blitz”-type cans. Even if you put them up on blocks and paint them with asphault emulsion, they will eventually rust.



Note from JWR:

We are having a quiet, snowy Christmas here at the ranch. As you know, I write and edit most of my posts a day in advance, so these posts for December 26th are being composed and posted on the 25th. Sorry that the blog is a bit “light” today, but I’m a bit preoccupied with the Christmas dinner preparations and present opening chaos. All that I can say in my defense is that I haven’t missed a day of posting yet, since SurvivalBlog was launched on September 5, 2005. There are now more than 5,700 archived articles, letters, and quotes. I hope that you enjoy reading them and that you find the blog useful and motivational. Merry Christmas and Semper Paratus!



Two Letters Re: The Big Chill Causes Diesel Gelling Problems in the Lower 48

James:
The blog post regarding diesel gelling is correct for the most part. However there are solutions that are easy and inexpensive. There are many aftermarket additives that will keep your fuel oil from gelling and also raise the cetane level of the fuel. The cetane level is similar to the octane level of gasoline, the higher the better it burns. DieselKleen, Stanadyne and others are good choices. My 6.0L Ford F350 gets a full mile per gallon better mileage with the addition of DieselKleen and I have not had a single engine problem in over two years of operation. One gallon of DieselKleen is about $17 dollars at Wal-Mart and treats 300 gallons of diesel fuel. For climates where freezing temperatures are a concern, make sure to purchase an additive that has anti-gelling properties. DieselKleen in the silver container is the anti-gelling formula. Hope this helps. – Jim T.

 

JWR:
Those of us who live in Canada (in my case 60 miles northeast of Toronto) and drive diesel vehicles (1990 diesel Land Cruiser, HDJ81) know the problem of diesel gelling all too well.
However there are measures you can take to lessen the problem, e.g. add an anti-gelling diesel additive with every fill up, the amount varies with brand). In addition install a heater on your oil pan, a block heater to warm the coolant, and lastly and by no means least, wrap your battery (two batteries, in my case) with an electrically heated battery blanket. Also, use a lighter weight oil in the winter, such as 5W40. Regards, – Mark N.

JWR Replies: As this article (cited in Eric’s letter) describes, unfortunately the currently available selection of additives do not work in preventing wax dropout in the new USLD formulations.



Two Letters Re: What Are the Best Magazines for Investment?

Jim
Here’s my feeling on what pistol mags to obtain. Obviously, if you have a high capacity handgun, it behooves you to have at least ten mags for it. I actually have 30 Glock Model 19 mags since I already have one and contemplate picking up another that a friend wishes to sell.

I’m also trying to pick up Glock 17 mags, even though they stick out the bottom of my G19. I really want a Glock 34 long slide 9mm, and figure that the only way I may be able to get mags for it down the road is to have them on hand. They fit my [Model] 19, and stick out a little, but that’s okay. [JWR Adds: There are magazine “filler” sleeves made for the compact Glock pistols, making them more comfortable to hold when using full-size magazines–such as G17 mags in a G19, G22 mags in a G23, and G21 mags in a G30.]

I want to warn you folks of one thing about Glock magazines. I am under the impression that the company will be making the new Glock 21s, Glock 19s and some others in the “SF” [Short Frame] variation, which has a thinner frame, and is more ergonomic. The problem is, while he new SF mags will fit the older Glocks, the old [pre-SF] Glock mags won’t work in the newer SF models. Apparently the mag body is cut for the mag release in a different place. Thus, I’d recommend getting the older version of the model you want, or just get the new SF mags. Right now, as I said, I think only the Model 21 and 19 Glocks are made in the SF variation.

If you have an odd pistol, pay close attention to magazine availability. My favorite carry gun is my Walther P-99 in 9mm. Mags were in the $50 range, which made them hard to afford. Every now and then, a company like CDNN gets trade-in mags, which are priced affordably. CDNN were selling the trade in SW-99 mags (which are the same gun essentially as the P99 for $28. I was able to pick up two, but the company ran out the day after the election, and hasn’t gotten anymore. Since I like this handgun, I may have to bite the bullet and lay out twice as much as what I give for Glock 19 mags to get a supply for this pistol. I think the lesson is, if you have a Browning 9mm, or a Ruger P95, or a high cap handgun you don’t see every day, it would make sense to buy the mags while you can. – Lawrence K.

JWR Replies: I have been told that the SF mag catch notch (on the front of the magazine) can actually be cut by hand, with an X-Acto knife, to retrofit older Glock magazines. BTW, I’m confident that some enterprising individual is sure to soon produce cutting jigs, to make this job easier .

Mr. Editor;

How can you tell people they should ‘invest’ in magazines? That doesn’t make sense. They are a commodity, that can be cranked out in huge numbers. – E.G.B., near Atlanta

JWR Replies: Magazines were until recently a commodity but their status as a commodity is is now dubious. As I described in this article, Federal “bans” and “freezes” often spread economic chaos. When governments interfere with free markets, prices can get crazy. Just look at what happened to price of small containers of Freon, a few years ago.

Based upon our knowledge of what happened during the last magazine ban (circa 1994 to 2004, and thankfully terminated by a sunset clause), and seeing a new presidential administration with hoplophobic tendencies waiting in the wings, it is safe to assume that a new ban is fairly likely. It is therefore wise and prudent to stock up, in anticipation. My advice is to buy all the full capacity magazines that you and your children will ever need, plus a few more, as an investment. In as little as six months, you may be very glad that you did! If a new ban is enacted, it is very likely that the prices of most magazines will double, and that some may triple or even quadruple.



Odds ‘n Sods:

Katie F. suggested this account of surviving and airliner crash.

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Several readers mentioned this: “The End of the World As We Know It”: An unexpected, thick layer of solar particles inside Earth’s magnetic field suggests there are huge breaches in our planet’s solar defenses, scientists said. These breaches indicate that during the next period of high solar activity, due to start in 2012, Earth will experience some of the worst solar storms seen in decades.

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Aaron R. flagged this one: Liquidity Traps versus Inflation Traps

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From Cheryl: Massive Hedge Fund Redemptions as Investors Flee (just as JWR warned you, back in October of ’07) — Bleak Economic Future Seen in New DataJapan Car Production Biggest Drop Since 1967California Budget Deficit Now $42 BillionUS Retail Traffic Fell 24% Pre-Christmas WeekendWhere to Find the Absolute Best Post-Christmas Sales



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

This is a coalition to ban coalitions, I ain’t a politician but I’ve got views.
Some folks want to ban cars some want to get rid of Fender guitars.
Why don’t you do your thing and we do our thing too?
Now they want to take my cigarettes and all my good whiskey
And these d**n coalitions they are after you and me
They want to get rid of my forty fours and all the R-rated films
If they only knew how much we’d all love to get rid of them

And this is a coalition to ban coalitions, the views of a musician, yeah I’ve got some
Some folks want to ban cars some want to get rid of electric guitars
Why can’t everybody else leave everybody else alone?
Now the latest thing they want to stomp out is violence on TV
And the worst of all is that Oscar winning rabbit Bugs Bunny
Farewell Foghorn Leghorn, so long Yosemite Sam
They’re messin’ with our heroes and we got to stop ’em now.
And this is a coalition to ban coalitions…” – Hank Williams, Jr., The Coalition to Ban Coalitions