Note from JWR:

The new Ulysses Press edition of my novel “Patriots” .will be released in early April. Amazon will be selling it for just $10.14. I’d like to make a special request of SurvivalBlog readers: If you plan to buy any copies, please wait until our planned “Patriots Book Bomb” day – April 8th. By forestalling orders and having hundreds of them all placed on the same day, we hope to drive the novels’s Amazon.com sales rank into the Top Ten. Please mark your calendar for April 8th. Many thanks!

Selecting Retreat Properties–Pros and Cons of Buying Remote and Off Grid

I recently had a consulting client that hired me to do a search on his behalf for a rural retreat property in southwestern Oregon. In the early stages of the search, he asked about the pros and cons of buying undeveloped “off grid” properties that do not have utility power poles nearby. This summarizes my reply:

From the standpoint of setting up a rural, self-sufficient retreat, an off-grid parcel is actually advantageous, for two reasons:

1.) They are generally more remote and away from natural “lines of drift” and hence are far less likely to be in the path of the Golden Horde.

2.) Off-grid properties sell at up to a 30% discount versus comparable properties that have grid power. On a large acreage, this savings is often enough to pay for installing a photovoltaic power system

The downsides:

1.) Off-grid properties tend to be at higher elevation, since it is just the “way out in the hills” properties that don’t have power poles nearby. Most of the low river valleys have long hence had grid power. There are a few exception that I’ve encountered

2.) The property is unlikely to have line of sight to neighboring residences. That can raise the risk of burglary if your retreat house is left unoccupied for extended periods of time.

3.) There is remote (30+ minute drive to the nearest town), and then there is very remote–a one hour+ drive to the nearest town, part of which might be on either US Forest Service road or a road that you have to maintain yourself. This could isolate you from commerce and social interaction especially in an era of fuel scarcity.

Letter Re: Pack a Property Tax Receipt in Your G.O.O.D. Kit, to Get Through Checkpoints

Dear Mr. Rawles:
It might prove worthwhile to put a copy of your latest property tax bill receipt as (proof of ownership of your retreat property) in your “Get Out of Dodge” (G.O.O.D.) ready kit. For example the county in which your retreat property is located might form road blocks to keep out the Golden Horde. If you are late getting out of town how is someone manning a rural roadblock, such as a deputy, to know that you are a tax paying member of the community and not just part of the Golden Horde? For that matter how are they to know that your cousin really does have permission to retreat with you? You can bet when TSHTF that few will take your word for it. Would you?

Many counties provide the tax information on-line, so even if you don’t have last year’s you can get it. All of the tax rural tax receipts I have only list the tax-key not an address which is why I favor them as a means to proving ownership. if you have the address on yours you may want to white it out and then recopy it for OPSEC. Between the tax receipt and you driver’s license you should be able to distinguish yourself from a member of the Golden Horde.

Even if all the members of your retreat party have the same last name you will want to have separate “Retreat Permission Affidavits” especially if you are not all getting out of Dodge together. The basic idea is to have a notarized document which states that the author is the owner of the property (tax receipt attached), and that such and such person has permission from the owner of the property to reside at the property, you might want to include a description of the person who has permission (think: no computerized identification checks), and would the reader of the “Retreat Permission Affidavit” kindly assist the bearer in continuing on their way. At a minimum one set of permissions would be necessary for every vehicle in your convoy, whether or not the property owner is in your convoy.

There is nothing that says you have to have a legal-looking notarized document, but there would be no “rule of law” at TEOTWAWKI, so if you are going to have a prop, it should be the most convincing prop you can get. I know that some states allow excessive charges for notary services, in Wisconsin, for example, the limit per notorial act is fifty cents. At that rate there is no reason not to have a professional attest that the author of the Retreat Permission Affidavit is indeed the owner of the retreat. If the fee is an issue in your area, you might consider asking an attorney to notarize the documents when you are having one do other work for you such as drafting a will. If you are an existing, active client many attorneys will not charge for notary services.

JWR Replies: One step better is to have your G.O.O.D. vehicle registered (or dual-registered) in the county where you have your retreat. Especially in states that have county tag number prefixes or the county names imprinted on their license plates, it will make it very simple for folks manning checkpoints to sort the “sheep from the goats”, and send you safely on your way.

Six Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle

Jim –
Read the article [by OddShot] about the BOV and wanted to add a ranching note. Some of us ranchers have pickups with a trailer hitch mounted in the front as well as the back. This makes pulling trailers out of awkward situations easier without having to turn the truck around. Added to a substantial front bumper, it makes front ramming an interesting proposition, as that hitch – with a draw-bar but no ball – would do some serious damage. Kind of like the bronze prow on a Greek warship. Just an idea. – Geoff in ND

JWR Replies: While I’m not an advocate of playing “Road Warrior”–(I’m more of a “hunker down” in place kinda guy)–in my dealings with consulting clients I’ve witnessed quite a few “specialized” custom-fabricated bumper accessories. Most of these were variations of crash bars. (My old friend “Jeff Trasel”, for example, many years ago owned a camouflage-painted Volkswagen festooned with various Marine Corps bumper stickers and equipped with a very stout crash bar.) I’ve also seen all manner of nefarious devices designed to fit into standard 2-inch square receiver hitch channels. The biggest advantage of these is that they can be quick-detachable, allowing them to be kept out of sight in normal (pre-Schumeresque) times. One of these was a clever pair of “radiator killer” spikes. The 1-1/2″ diameter spikes on this were both nearly three feet long. and tapered for just their last eight inches. The bottom one projected directly out from the receiver, at just below “trailer ball” height. The other half of the forked pair was parallel to the first, but about 15 inches higher. If ramming another vehicle, at least one of these two spikes would likely puncture the radiators of 90% of the cars and trucks that anyone might encounter on the highways and byways. When installed in a rear hitch mount, the barbs are a primarily defensive weapon. But when installed in a pickup’s front receiver, they can act as a fearsome offensive anti-radiator weapon.

Hello Jim,
I would like to add one thing to the article by Oddshot. Fix-A-Flat type [aerosol tire sealant] products can freeze and not flow in cold weather, rendering it useless. I learned this the hard way during a recent cold snap here in Ohio. Although I disagree with his comments on diesels it was an informative article. Thanks, – Jeff in Ohio.

Mr. Rawles,
I rarely contribute an opinion here because my expertise pales in comparison to many who are listed in here. The gentleman who recommended the Ford F150 as a base unit for a survival vehicle is spot on. I would go one stop further and recommend a early to mid eighties F150 or F250 with a 300 straight six engine coupled with Fords famous “three speed with granny low” standard transmission. Used to sell trucks to horse and other farmers in the early nineties at a very large new Ford lot. The young guys (me included) bought the big diesels for their stock trailers and the old guys would buy the straight six. Guess who never needed to come into the shop. You got it, the old guys. That straight six will pull almost as good as the diesel including up and down hills with the only sacrifice being a little lower top speed. It is a very simple engine to work on (if you ever have to-very reliable). I still own and use my 1991 Ford diesel but in retrospect would have spent much less and gotten the 300 straight six if I had it to do over again.

From a construction stand point the Fords of that era were built and designed much better than it’s competition. The beds were bolted on instead of welded etc. Their only weakness is a tendency to rust out over the wheel wells.

I am a MOPAR guy who comes from a MOPAR family. But when you take emotion, and prejudice out of the equation, the light Ford pickup of the eighties was indeed the best of its contemporaries for durability and simplicity for your dollar. – GSJ

Sir James,
Tires rot. There is a five year expected useful safe design life. The valving on shock absorbers wear, and their chrome shafts also rust. Replace tires when truck is purchased and once every five years even if tread depth measures (US penny Lincoln’s head = 1/16″ tread depth remains).

I have been driving 1 ton pickups ever since I was 16 years old (in 1964). Over the [intervening 45] years, I have used bias tube type, tubeless, with and without tubes, and radials. While aluminum lug holes can wear and rims can break, their beads don’t rust air leaks as steel rims eventually do [in regions where road salt is used].

My ’72 3/4 ton , owned since new, “3 door” Suburban project now has 17″x7″ as backspacing on more common 16″s mismatched with OEM 16.5″ steel rims. They rusted leaks after 25+ years. The 17″ wheels allow for larger front disk brake upgrades. I use 265-70Rx17″ LR E = 235-85Rx16″ LR E tire diameter nominal 32″ tall, the latter being the most common skinny tire on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks.

I advise replacing all moving/flexing rubber, such as belts, every three years and rubber hoses every five years. Yes, I have had family members get 20 plus years, but that takes pure Grace to miss anything in between inconvenient to catastrophic failure.

Replace the mindsets of “can you get by until the lease has run out” or “trade as soon as you’re no longer upside down”. These paid-for bug-out buggies are your best means of not carrying your kit on your back for a decade or more, if you can keep it fed.

My plan is to have a 110 mph-capable, 400 horsepower and 400 pound ft. + 5 speed with overdrive and a gear splitting overdrive (unit gearing) truck capable of towing and stopping five ton trailer loads, firewood, and the like

This truck shall never again be a painted lady or look as fast as it truly is. – Tom K.

Mr. Editor;
See the Expeditions West web site and the vehicles they are testing and past vehicles they recommend for the purpose of traversing cross country in all terrain. These folks could be consider ‘experts’ on the subject. Choosing a vehicle should be like choosing a firearm, where personal experience with the equipment and the users physical attributes can be major considerations in the choice. As apart of an intended hobby, I had hoped to build a vehicle for the purpose and get involved with the sport. As an example I’ll discuss my primary vehicle for the purpose. Because of my extensive experience and knowledge of the vehicle, not so much cost considerations, I chose a 1985 Toyota 4WD fuel injected pickup and spent a fair amount to thoroughly restore it. It is #4 on Expedition West’s most recommended list along with more modern vehicles. They state the major reasons for the choice. Fortunately there are other and more modern vehicles on their list, so there’s something there for everyone.

A quick and incomplete mention of the Pro’s and Con’s of some my vehicle’s attributes. The drive train is essentially a scaled down and lighter version of the Toyota FJ40, and like the FJ40, exceptionally tough. Chevy trucks have been known to bend frames on trails these Toyota’s climb like goats. Albeit a light truck, it can can handle a useful and relatively heavy payload for it’s size, passenger capacity and fuel economy. It offers one of the highest payload to fuel economy ratio found in any gasoline powered 4WD truck.

The 1985 [model year] is the only Toyota pickup with the durable straight front axle and more powerful and modern, yet simple fuel injected motor. A separate computer is not needed to help with diagnostics. Any reasonable mechanic or intelligent young person can handle the job. A small trailer can be towed and navigate tight Forest Service roads, and a larger trailer with electric brakes can safely handle fair amount weight. The truck’s towing capacity is a reasonable 3,500 pounds, exceptionally high for it’s class. In light of a possible EMP attack, it’s major weakness is the computer controlled fuel injection and ignition. The upside to a modern EFI motor is the availability of emission control devices which may need replacement and these parts can be had at lower cost than the latest models. Out here in boonies, we’re lucky that Emission Certification is not required. With some modification, this 1985 model can use the injection system from a 1995 models. Fortunately I happen to have several spare and complete sets of replacement parts for the fuel and secondary ignition systems for 1985 to 1990 models. I also have plenty of spare parts for the rest of vehicle stored in boxes and extra and operational vehicles that can be used as parts cars. The vehicle is common in this sparsely populated neck of the woods and spare parts are plentiful, but not as plentiful as the old Chevys. The key to utilizing the parts of different years and related models vehicles is to have intimate knowledge of the subtle changes made from year to year. A mechanic with such knowledge could be invaluable. I’m not a mechanic by trade, but a passion for these trucks during my youth led me to research and discover the vast technical support and knowledge available on the internet from other enthusiasts of this once very popular truck. To be sure, my parts pile is considerable and includes spare gear sets, transmissions, suspension, and axles, to the now difficult to obtain distributors, cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds and so forth. A complete and spare, yet still running 4WD Toyota truck can be stripped of it’s carburetor and accessories if needed or simply driven as is. This un-restored “spare” 4WD truck is still serviceable and equipped with a flat bed, a good wood getter that can squeeze and navigate though narrow openings and roads. Because of it’s high mileage and other attributes, I do not consider it a primary vehicle. Another complete low mileage and running 2wd of the same year could donate it it’s EFI. It is essentially a copy of my primary vehicle without the 4WD.

Spare and complete sets of stock and oversized tires on rims allow these vehicles to operate on any terrain or road conditions from sand dunes to deeper mud and snow. With only stock sized tires, which are adequate for most trails and roads, these trucks do surprisingly well. Letting the air out of the tires to no less than 15 psi greatly improves there performance in sand. Tall and narrow tires are recommended over tall and wide usually seen as the foot print is actually greater ‘aired down’. The rolling resistance is less on the highway and it ‘bites’ into dirt and snow far better. It is a well balanced choice in off road tires. This is a topic of it’s own and I’ll leave it with a recommendation that 23575R16 tires are the best all around for many 4WD vehicles, including Toyota trucks. No suspension modification is required for most.

Regardless of your choice, a good ‘yard car’ or well used and still running spare vehicle, is wonderful source of parts. Rust buckets are cheap.
New and used carburetors for many full sized and light foreign and domestic trucks are becoming difficult to find.

Rebuild kits for carburetors are a good idea. Although the older Toyota’s are my personal favorite, we also have fleet of Chevy’s, model years from 1964 into the 1980s: a 1 ton, flatbed, dump bed, standard and 4WD Suburbans. Not only do these all run, but: “Hey, parts is parts!” We also have a “Toyolet”, a Toyota FJ40 [that has been retrofitted] with a powerful V8 Chevy motor and heavy duty Turbo 400 transmission, with air lockers and other serious off road features. Even with all it’s fancy stuff, my 1985 Toyota does well off road in comparison while getting 24 mpg on the highway. Although not a practical daily driver, it would fun in the sun and useful in a high speed Mad Max world, yet one would need plenty of stored fuel.

Well, it looks like I’ve ramble on anyway, so it time to quit. Hopefully some of areas covered provide helpful tips and considerations. With all the factors one may consider, a big clue on what to buy could found while driving around the neighborhood. Consider using the tool the natives have found to be the most useful. If old Chevy’s are plentiful, get a Chevy. Then again perhaps it is Ford or Toyota as the popular choice. The local junkyard is likely loaded with parts. Even if an older Toyota is your ‘thing’, be sure to have a full sized carbureted Pickup on hand, preferable a 3/4 ton, and make sure one of those truck is 4WD, preferably the Toyota, especially if you intend to live in a heavily forested area. It may mean taking two trips to get the wood, yet it can go where the wood is and usually a pickup is driven mostly empty. As bug out vehicle or wood getter, no full sized can follow it down those very narrow jeep trails or traverse soft deep sand. A Toyota could get between 19 and 24 mpg loaded/unloaded, and a full-sized would get between 8 and 12 mpg whether or not, it is loaded. A full size 3/4 ton should be used and is needed to handle the very heavy work. As always, use the right tool for the job. A 2WD full sized pickup can often be found in better condition and at a cheaper price. A 3/4 ton 4WD Chevy Suburban can be a very inexpensive all around family and farm rig. A late model and nearly new high tech Chevy or Ford might be the worst choice, but always have a low tech truck on hand if one needs or already has such a vehicle. As a retired fleet manager, I suggest keeping it simple. – E.L

James,
Upon reading the recommendations about a “survival vehicle” by OddShot, I see you posted about turning off airbags. I believe that the author was speaking about supplemental airbags for the rear suspension in pickup trucks, not the vehicle passenger protection-type airbags.

He had mostly sound advice, but I’m not sure an automatic is really a liability, a properly maintained automatic is trouble free and will last a long, long time. With an automatic you’re pretty much guaranteed that someone can hop in your rig and drive it effectively. In contrast, with a manual transmission (especially truck transmissions), a person has to have manual transmission experience in order to use it. Things like this most likely would never come into play, but an automatic is a lot easier for an injured or inexperienced person to use. – A. Friendly

 

Economics and Investing:

Jon sent this sobering news story: 45 percent of world’s wealth destroyed: Blackstone CEO. “Between 40 and 45 percent of the world’s wealth has been destroyed in little less than a year and a half,” Schwarzman told an audience at the Japan Society. ‘This is absolutely unprecedented in our lifetime'”

J.W.P. mentioned this video interview of Dimitri Orlov. J.W.P.’s comment: “I continue to be amazed at how people actually believe that the current U.S. government will “find a way to get us out of this mess.” It can’t, and it won’t. We’ve seen how recent and current this administrations have attempted to spend their way out of this crisis. It’s like trying to dig oneself out of a pit. The pit just keeps getting deeper and wider. It just doesn’t work!” JWR Adds: Don’t miss Orlov’s advice on getting the tools together to start a small home-based business.

Kevin A. sent this: Get Long Torches & Pitchforks: Bailouts “Absolutely Asinine,” Ritholtz Says

Reader D.B. says: “The MOAB is going global!”, in response to this piece in Forbes: A Developing World Bailout? Here are a few snippets:

“Clearly, fiscal resources do have to be injected in rich countries that are at the epicenter of the crisis,” said World Bank Chief Economist Justin Yifu Lin in a message to summit attendees.

“Channeling infrastructure investment to the developing world where it can release bottlenecks to growth and quickly restore demand can have an even bigger bang for the buck and should be a key element to recovery.”
.
“In response, the World Bank proposes a Vulnerability Fund. They’re asking developed countries to contribute .7% of their economic stimulus spending to the fund. (So for the United States’ $787 billion bailout that’d be $5.5 billion.) The fund would focus on infrastructure projects, safety net programs to keep children in schools with adequate nutrition and health care, and financing for small businesses.”

From FloridaGuy: Pontiac, Michigan lays off all 622 employees

Items from The Economatrix:

Outstanding Derivatives: 1.28 Quadrillion–95% On Margin ” …the actual totals are even bigger because this number does not include derivatives related to the commodity markets (which the BIS says it can’t track because values aren’t available).”

Four States See Double Digit Joblessness

Into The Financial Abyss

Do I Have Enough Gold?

Number One Reason to Own Gold

Gold is Ready to Go Very High Very Fast

Western Military Forces Turning Inward in Anticipation of Domestic Unrest ” …the CIA has added an economic situation report to its threat assessment for the White House.”

Wall Street Struggles to Extend Big Rally

Rasmussen Reports: 53% Think We are Headed for a 1930s Depression

Companies Cut Pricey Older Workers

Extreme Cheapskates: Tightwads Revel in Frugality

Union Workers OK Cuts to Help Ford Survive

The Economy Prompting a New Modesty

Hard Times Net More Citations for Illegal Fishing

Odds ‘n Sods:

Utah, Hawaii, Wyoming top ‘happiness’ poll (a hat tip to Michael H. for the link.)

   o o o

The folks that operate CampingSurvival,com also host an amazing collection of first-hand survival narratives. I found that the one from Hurricane Rita provided a useful glimpse into human nature, en extremis.

   o o o

OSOM mentioned a very good podcast on home defense at LewRockwell.com.

   o o o

Thanks to GG for sending this: Seed companies have a bumper crop of customers

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“No one was psychologically prepared for hard times when they hit, because, according to the tenets of positive thinking, even to think of trouble is to bring it on. Americans did not start out as deluded optimists. The original ethos, at least of white Protestant settlers and their descendants, was a grim Calvinism that offered wealth only through hard work and savings, and even then made no promises at all. You might work hard and still fail; you certainly wouldn’t get anywhere by adjusting your attitude or dreamily ‘visualizing’ success.” – Barbara Ehrenreich

Note from JWR:

I’ve just completely revamped The SurvivalBlog Bookshelf page. By shopping using the provided links, with any title that is sold by Amazon.com you’ll help support SurvivalBlog, with sales commissions. OBTW, please do not order the new edition of my novel “Patriots” until April 8th–the planned “Book Bomb” day. This event is designed to boost the book’s Amazon sales rank. Thanks!

Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle, by OddShot

I recently had the opportunity to read JWR’s novel “Patriots” . As a former professional automobile mechanic with 25+ years of experience and having a similar history building, restoring and racing British sports cars (MGBs), I became intrigued with a certain aspect of his book: the preparation of a “survival vehicle.” This is intended to be a vehicle rugged enough, durable enough, and simple enough to be an important part of anyone’s survival program.

My first consideration was to define this vehicle. Next, I set out to list a number of modifications to this vehicle that would increase it’s simplicity, strength, and usefulness of this vehicle as a survival tool. The following that I listed a number of tools and spares important to the operation of this vehicle.

Survival Vehicle Selection and Modification
For reasons of strength, durability and utility the vehicle needs to be a truck. For load carrying considerations I would recommend a Pickup Truck over a SUV type, such as a Blazer or Bronco.
I think the truck should be of American manufacture. Although some foreign makes might be suitable in terms of ruggedness and durability, the parts availability—both used and new–for American made trucks makes them the winner, hands-down. Also parts for “high-survivability” modifications are plentiful and cheap for American vehicles.

There is a reason that America’s largest selling vehicle for the last 50+ years has been the Ford F150 pickup truck. They may be low on creature comforts and fuel economy, but they more then make up for those sacrifices with ruggedness, dependability, ease of repair, and parts availability. Chevy and Dodge make great trucks, but there are millions more Ford Pick-up trucks out there. Parts are still available and junkyards and rural back yards are filled with them.

Older vehicles (1970 or 1980s vintage cars and trucks) with older technology are better in the survival situations than newer, lighter, hi-tech vehicles. Carburetors, distributors with breaker points, and generator charging systems may not be the most fuel efficient…but they are simple, rugged and reliable. They can be rebuilt and maintained very easily. Fuel Injection and High Energy Ignitions systems have very limited life spans, are difficult to diagnose and dead without spare parts.

One drawback is that NOS parts for really old vehicles (1960-1975 +/-) are getting somewhat harder to find, even finding used stuff is getting tough. You don’t need much…but if you can’t get it now…you won’t be able to get it later. If you can stick with an 1980s vintage +/- American pickup. As I said before, parts are still available and junkyards and rural back yards are filled with them.
Choose one with a 302 V8 (minimum), with a [traditional] carburetor! Backdate the engine by installing a distributor with ignition breaker points and condenser. No electronic ignition. The electronic ignition is a [reliability] weak link of all Ford V8s. Just look in the glove box or under the seat of most of them and you’ll find a spare “spark box” or Ignition module. Ford used points and condensers on their V8s through 1974. A little digging through Craig’s List or most junk yards should yield a good useable distributor. New ones are available at most speed shops.

Make sure you get a truck with a manual transmission, and try to get four wheel drive. Avoid automatic transmissions. If for no other reason:cars with automatic transmissions can not be push-started. Also, with a manual transmission …if you can get two gears to mesh…you can keep rolling. Once an automatic transmission starts to slip, the party is over.

With a manual transmission you can adjust a clutch unless you’ve burned it up. In the middle of nowhere you can replace a burned clutch (and even reline the disc if you really had to), but the rebuild of an automatic transmission requires an expert with lots of spares and spotlessly clean working conditions. Also, with a manual transmission, were the clutch linkage give up, there are techniques you can learn to take off and shift without using the clutch pedal.

Because this vehicle should be multi-terrain and multi-use Do not put great big tires or lift kits on it. I would beef up the rear springs to carry more weight but would not raise the height of the rear. Don’t use air shocks or air bags either. These are just something else that will break and “let you down”. [JWR Adds: As is taught at executive protection driving schools, airbags should be disabled if anticipating inimical situations where you might have to play “bumper cars”.]

I’m thinking of lowering my Ford a couple of inches to make it easier and faster to get into and out of. Lowering the truck will also make it handle better on asphalt…and maybe even make it a bit more aerodynamic for some fuel savings. The extra road clearance is nice but how many times are you going to use that advantage? Not as often as you might need to get in and get going as fast as possible.
You’ll want the ruggedness of 6 ply truck tires. Choose ones that have a “mildly aggressive” tread pattern allowing a good mix of on-road and off-road use. Unless you are considering moving way out in the woods then avoid strictly off-road tires. They will not give you the wear and handling needed for use on asphalt [and they are quite noisy at highway speeds].

Up grade the charging system to a 65 Amp. alternator, minimum. You’ll want the amps to power other electrical devices. Install two batteries wired in parallel (for 12 VDC, many amp. output). One battery should be a “Deep Cycle” type. This battery can power 12 VDC lights, radios, tools etc. Also, if the alternator dies while on a long drive, this battery set up can power a V8 ignition system for a long time. The batteries should have their ground wires connected with “marine” type terminals. Simply disconnecting (unscrewing the wing nut on the Marine Terminal) the ground side of the batteries [or installing a battery disconnect switch from JC Whitney] can prevent them being discharged by shorts or [unexpected] draws. It can also somewhat reduce the risk of vehicle theft.

Consider removing the ignition/steering column lock switch. If you don’t…you could loose your keys…and “hot wire” the ignition/starter circuits and get the truck running….but imagine your chagrin when you realize that the steering is locked! A heavy duty DC toggle switch will take care of the ignition and a [momentary] pushbutton [DC switch] will handle the starter. Mount them in a hidden, out of the way place.
Remove the very complicated emission control carburetor and replace it with the simplest Holley 2 or 4 barrel that you can find.

I prefer gasoline engines. Diesels are okay, but I don’t think there will be a lot of diesel fuel around. You may not always be able to get diesel or even cooking oil. Consider converting your truck to a multiple fuel vehicle using both gasoline and propane. LPG is still very easy to get and easy to store at home. A conversion to propane is very doable …and not real expensive, especially on an engine equipped with a carburetor. There are number of sites on the web that discuss this.

A good number of pickup trucks have two fuel tanks…if yours doesn’t, consider installing another tank. There is a lot of room under most trucks. Build in onboard storage for 20 gallons minimum…or and extra 250 mile range.

Remove all emissions control equipment, at least the catalytic converter. [Of course, first consult your state laws before doing so.] Remove the metal cooling fan and install electric fan for engine cooling. If you take a hard front hit, then those metal bladed fans will destroy a radiator. You can do this with a junk yard fan unit…or find something in the JC Whitney catalog, or any auto parts store. As a side benefit, you may see some improvement in fuel economy, due to the reduction of parasitic drag. Wire this electric fan with sensor and a manual override switch on dash.

Consider installing an oversized radiator and coolant overflow tank. Trucks that came with air conditioning generally have the biggest radiator. The more coolant you have in the cooling system is the further you can go if the radiator gets a hole in it and you just can’t stop to fix it right away.

Install a Class 3 towing hitch. Its good for both towing and for ramming [– with the ball removed from the hitch extension plate, to back up and pierce another vehicle’s radiator]. Make sure you carry both popular sized hitch balls. Remove the chrome piece of garbage that passes for a front bumper and install a heavy duty store bought or home built. Again, the front bumper should be sufficient for towing or ramming. Install hooks for towing on both the front and rear bumpers.

A cap or bed cover should be in place over the truck’s bed to allow space for sleeping, shelter and dry, secure storage. This can be as elaborate or as simple as you’d like but due to rearward visibility concerns, make sure that its not higher or wider than the roof of the cab. Due to weight and height considerations [adversely affecting center of gravity] I would avoid campers that install in the bed of a pickup.
You might consider finding a used tool box like the ones you see on the back of pickups used by plumbers and electricians…this would be the ones that replace the entire pickup bed and have 5 or 6 compartments on each side. The Reading brand tool bodies are well-made. These have tremendous utility, secure and dry storage and are all very strongly built. With a little ingenuity you could configure a knock down tent over the top of one of these giving you dry off-the –ground shelter. Again, the deep cycle battery can provide 12 VDC for lights and heat in this area.

Install commo [and communications scanning] gear as appropriate to your mission. At least be sure to have a good, strong basic AM & FM radio. [JWR Adds: At wrecking yards, you can sometimes find a Becker or Blaupunkt brand “Europa”, “Mexico” or similar model AM/FM/Shortwave radio pulled from a European car such as a Mercedes Benz, for under $50. These are not only very reliable radios, but will also give you the opportunity to get WWV time signals and some international broadcasts.]

Install quartz halogen headlights in the front. I wouldn’t bother with driving lights but I would install fog lights…mounted in a way as to light to the immediate front and to the sides for cornering. In the rear, I would mount driving lamps or fog lamps as back up lights, work lamps or rearward spot lights. Wire all auxiliary lighting with switches on dash.

Remove all electrical systems not necessary to mission. No power windows or door locks. Remove the air conditioning system. Electric windows, door locks, fancy [add-on] heating systems and other fancy electric doo-dads are to be avoided at all costs. As I said before, automatic transmissions should be considered a liability.

Put in Bucket seats, especially in a pickup. They are easier/faster to get into and out of…and will create more storage space in the cab. Gun racks? If desired, make them solidly mounted and as far out of sight as possible.

Onboard tools will be important to keep your survival vehicle operational. All should be secure and hard-mounted.

Carry an appropriate workshop manual with wiring diagrams. Study it carefully and know how to reference its various sections.

Complete Automotive hand tool kit.
Heavy duty jack, jack stands and wheel chocks.
An onboard portable compressor, even a small 12 VDC model has a lot of usefulness. If you can afford a larger one, then you can run pneumatic tools with it.
Portable generator. As much and as good as you can afford. Its just plain worth it.
Tow Chain, shackles and tow hooks, various rope and line.
1-1?2 ton power winch or chain hoist or block and fall. I would consider something that is not hard mounted so you can use it from the front or rear of the vehicle…or not even need the vehicle at all.
Propane torches and solder/rosin for soldering wires and radiator repair. Learn how to solder!
Electric wiring, electrical crimp connectors, electrical tape, spare switches, heat shrink tubing, nylon wire (cable) ties.
Onboard Axe, shovel, pry bar.
12 VDC mechanic’s drop lamp.
Additional fuel, lubricants, brake fluid, silicon sealant, adhesives (especially, JB-Weld and Goop), duct tape, grease gun, thread tape, emery paper (2) spare tires, potable water, fan belts, Radiator hoses, heater hoses, hose clamps and tune up parts

One properly inflated spare in good condition is good, but having two spares is even better.

Keep tire repair equipment! Six cans of Fix-a-Flat, a radial tire plug kit and about 50 plugs. Find or make tools for breaking down and mounting tires.
Fuel transfer pump for getting fuel [from one vehicle to another or from] out of in-ground tanks. A hand-operated barrel pump with extensions for both the suction side and the discharge side.
Spot light (hand held)
A volt/ohm meter and mechanics test light.

Very Important: Drive your survival vehicle regularly. Use it. Go get plywood and shrubs and groceries in it. Work it. Houses and vehicles need people using them. When either is not used they deteriorate very quickly. Hard use will keep you thinking about repairs or modifications you might want to make. By date and mileage keep good repair and maintenance records.
A rugged dependable vehicle should be part of your survival gear. As long as you can get fuel there is freedom in mobility. The above is not a definitive list or the “end all to be all” one size fits all solution.

Consider this article a starting point and add your own ideas. – The OddShot

Letter Re: Advice on Silver or Gold Jewelry for Barter?

Hello Jim,
Been learning a lot from Survival Blog, thanks for the great work. I’m just wondering if sterling silver and 14 karat [gold] jewelry (plain [rings or chains], or gemstones would make good bartering items? Have been thinking of selling them and using the money for preparedness, etc but wondered about this.

Thanks very much for all the useful information. – Mrs. H.

JWR Replies: Although at first blush keeping jewelry on hand might seem practical, in actuality its drawbacks outweigh its benefits. Perhaps metals, but gemstones are a definite no. Gemstones–either diamonds or colored stones–will not be trusted by 99% of your potential bartering partners. Gold or silver chains might be trusted by some trading partners, but only if they were clearly marked for their purity, and if you were to carry a compact pennyweight scale, to establish the weight of the chain (or a chiseled-off length of chain).

Parenthetically, I should mention that as first popularized by the “Flying Tigers” (AVG) in China, early in World War II, some military aviators, Special Forces soldiers, and mercenaries have habitually worn heavy gold bracelets. They have worn these with the intention of being able to trade links from these chains for assistance from villagers, if they should become stranded in Third World countries. This is a sort of a “Get Me Home” insurance policy. These chains are often flaunted at VFW halls and have been touted by a few armchair survival writers, but I have my doubts about them working well in post-TEOTWAWKI First World countries. Ironically, your average First World urbanite or suburbanite is actually far more ignorant about precious metals and testing their purity than the average “ignorant” Third World peasant. (Many peasants know how to use a touchstone and even and more sophisticated merchants would know how to do an acid test, while the average American would be clueless about any of that!)

In my estimation the “precious metals chains” approach to barter will have very limited utility in most anticipated post-collapse situations, The biggest problem will be convincing your bartering partner that the gold or silver that you are offer is genuine, confirming its purity to the nearest half-karat value, and establishing its weight and hence its value. It is far far easier to have a pocketful of widely recognizable pre-1965 mint date circulated “junk” 90% silver US dimes, quarters and half dollars. And of course there is always “Ballistic Wampum.” Someday soon, common caliber ammunition may become the coin of the realm.

My advice to anyone that has set aside any “extra” (non-heirloom) jewelry, earmarked for barter: Sell it, and use the funds generated to buy pre-1965 90% silver US dimes, quarters and half dollars,.

Economics and Investing:

Jasper found this item from the McClatchy News Service for us: Regulatory reports show 5 biggest banks face huge losses. Here is a key quote: Citibank, Bank of America, HSBC Bank USA, Wells Fargo Bank and J.P. Morgan Chase reported that their “current” net loss risks from derivatives — insurance-like bets tied to a loan or other underlying asset — surged to $587 billion as of Dec. 31. Buried in end-of-the-year regulatory reports that McClatchy has reviewed, the figures reflect a jump of 49 percent in just 90 days. Hmmmm… “Derivatives.” Where have I heard that word before?

DD sent is this: Buffett: The economy has ‘fallen off a cliff’, Investor tells CNBC unemployment level could climb a lot higher

Susan Z. forwarded this: Michael Kosares: Gold coin shortage likely to become chronic

Items from The Economatrix:

The $700 Trillion Elephant in the Room

Wholesale Inventories Fall Again in January

Bank of America Cancels Visa-Holders’ Job Offers

Baby Boomers Going Bust

Chinese Looking for House Bargains in US

Celente: Expect Hunger Riots All Over

Meredith Whitney Says Credit Cards are the Next Credit Crunch

The Next Hit: Quick Defaults

Job Losses Could Drown Stimulus

Arlen Specter: Nation on Brink of Depression “[He] said the nation’s economic situation is more dire than the public has been told, but did not elaborate.”

Roubini: Recession Will Probably Last 36 Months JWR’s Comment: I’ll go out on a limb here, and characterize Roubini’s prediction as wildly optimistic

Surviving The Great Depression

On the Lighter Side of Insanity: Cow Flatulence to be Taxed

Odds ‘n Sods:

I just noticed that Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand has jumped to #62 in the Amazon sales rankings. (Out of four million+ titles.) Not bad for a 52-year-old novel! Meanwhile, Gardening When It Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times by Steve Solomon has advanced to #316. Those statistics tell me a lot more than anything we are hearing from the cheering section at CNBC.

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Garret D. flagged this piece from Time: Another By-Product of the Recession: Ex-Convicts

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The folks from CampingSurvival.com (one of our loyal advertisers) just launched a completely re-vamped web site. It is very easy to navigate. They have a very broad product line. Check it out!

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Shawn tagged this: Robber shot and killed with his own gun in Sanpete County

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“A government by representatives, elected by the people at short periods, was our object; and our maxim at that day was, ‘Where annual election ends, tyranny begins.'” – Thomas Jefferson, letter to Samuel Adams, February 26, 1800

Two Letters Re: Storing Food Without Refrigeration

James Wesley;
Cruising World magazine’s January 2009 Issue has a valuable article on food storage without refrigeration. It includes downloadable charts in PDF format. I would recommend that anyone not certain of the long-term power grid operation might want to take a look at these charts which list the specific food (everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to canned goods), the best way to store without refrigeration, the expected shelf life of the food, and informative notes. The article, by Beth A. Leonard, is titled: “Cruising without the Fridge: Stowage charts for provisions to help you have fresh food for your passages”. It was originally from “Hands-On Sailor” Dec 15, 2008. Regards, – CJA

Hi there
Great site you have – very informative. As a South African, now resident in the USA – I just want to point folks’ attention to a very simple method of meat preservation, which I’ve done regularly while here in the US. All it requires is: vinegar, salt, pepper, and coriander (for the bare basic version). This creates a South African delicacy called biltong – which has been used since the 1600s by farmers, as a way of preserving and storing meat.

Here’s a link to a series of entries, along with pictures, on Chowhound, showing the very simple process of making biltong. Cheers, –

Letter Re: Supply and Demand at American Gun Stores

James,
We finally caught up on magazine sales in late February, filling our last outstanding back orders, and I actually have a limited number of C Products AR-15 magazines in stock and some Magpul PMags (which I really like). The manufacturers tend to send out a half of an order and then a few weeks later, the balance of it. They are clearly allocating inventory across their customer base and I would estimate that they are running two to three months behind. The delivery situation is getting worse, and my guess is that new orders placed today would likely arrive in June or July.

Almost anything related to AR-15s/M4s is backordered. Spring sets, repair kits, accessories, bolts and bolt carriers, etc. Even magazine repair kits have dried up. I probably have close to $4,000 worth of merchandise on back order from Brownell’s for our web-based store. Prices are rising as well. Wholesale cost on Glock magazines have jumped to what used to be our retail sales price. We’ve seen a 60% jump in the
wholesale price since the election.

The ability of these producers to ramp up production is limited. Many are running extra shifts or hours on existing machines, but none of them want to add new equipment because the capital expense will take so long to recoup. If the law changes and their products are suddenly banned, their income will drop off a cliff and the new debt burden could just force them into bankruptcy that much sooner. So the pipeline is constrained due to the uncertain future. This is another lesson in why it is better to prepare sooner than later.

My advice for anyone who wants to buy ammunition by the case lot and black rifles is to try GunBroker.com. I do not sell there, but I have been doing some personal buying there. Sellers have items in stock, but prices are not low as the auction format tends to float prices up when demand is high. Still, you can buy ammo by the case, complete guns, complete lower [receiver]s and stripped lowers as well as magazines and accessories.

I wish you continued success, safety and security, – Dave of (Captain Dave’s)

JWR Replies: That matches what I have been seeing. As recently as September, an AR-15 “Lower Parts Kit” (the hammer, trigger, sear, pistol grip, trigger guard and assorted pins, springs and detents needed to complete building a stripped AR-15 receiver) was selling for as little as $49. Today, they are very scarce, and selling on Gunbroker.com for as much as $125 each! There are so many folks frantically parting-up ARs that there is a genuine shortage of not just the receivers themselves, but also the little “fiddly bits” piece parts!