Economics and Investing:

R.R. sent this: NS&I withdraws all its fixed-rate savings bonds

Chris mentioned an article on the new underground economy and the avoidance of bank accounts.

Thanks to Joan M. for finding this one: D-Day nears for Dubai’s $3.5 billion debt hurdle

Also from Joan come this CBC (Canada) piece: Peak oil: Problems and possibilities

Items from The Economatrix:

World Stocks Up on $10 Billion Dubai Rescue

Citigroup to Repay $20 Billion in Bailout Money

Oil Near $69 as OPEC Signals No Output Cut

US Recession “Not Over Until Job Rates Rise”

White House Economist Sees Jobs Growth By Spring. JWR Adds: They “Visualize World Peace”, too.

Federal Reserve Likely to Repeat Low-Rate Pledge
“We’re still a long, long way from normal.”

The Future of Gold, The Dollar, and More







Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 26 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 26 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Survival Tools, by SJH

I’ve read many articles regarding “survival “ and “preparedness” topics, my conclusion is that an important area has been missed. Lots of planning seems to focus on food storage, water, supplies, and so on, yet I have not seen or read anything about “survival tools — how to be prepared for anything mechanically”. So after considering this topic for several years, I’ve decided to introduce my own topic as far as tools for the self-reliant individual. My background includes 30 years of mechanical equipment repair on automobiles and trucks/trailers to heavy construction equipment including dozers and cranes. Having been exposed to working independently while on the road performing field work, you soon develop a survival sense that allows you to think through repairs and situations, even before you actually arrive at the work site.

Planning as we all know is the key factor, when considering what tools and equipment are  necessary.

  • What are you planning on keeping running, is it your vehicle/boat/plane/ATV/snow machine/camper?
  • What maintenance is required for each of these pieces of machinery?
  • What supplies will be required, what spares are necessary for repairs?

Lastly, yet most important of all, will be the tools necessary to keeping your equipment up and running. Transportation is critical as for preparedness situations, as we all know. Once you have determined your needs, your spares, supplies, think through what tools will be required.

For example, to replace disk brake pads, you need to remove the tire/wheel assembly, compress the caliper, unbolt the caliper, install the pads, and reverse the process to put it back together.

Just for a simple job like this, you will need a lug wrench for the lug nuts, a large C-clamp to compress the caliper and a wrench or socket to remove the caliper. You need to sit down and consider what will be required in whatever contingency or jobs may arise, and how to deal with it. I have a list of tools that, over the years, I have found will suffice for most basic repairs. These tools are carried in what I call my “road box”. This road box has been with me a long time. Even though the original box has long since rusted away, most of the tools have lasted.

This set of tools is my choice based on my needs as well as the fact that you may have to improvise to get the job done. Here is the list that we can call our “survival tool set”.

  • Storage box, a two-tray nesting type box made of durable plastic, now many years old.
  • ¼” drive socket set, used on small nuts/bolts in tight places.
  • 3/8” drive socket set, handy for removing nuts/bolts.
  • ½” drive set including 12pt short sockets as well as 6pt deep sockets, include a “breaker bar.”
  • Assortment of pliers (slip-joint, locking, needle-nose, side-cutting and electrical crimp type).
  • Wrench assortment, my favorite are the “ratcheting type” as well as adjustable type in different sizes.
  • Screw drivers an assortment of straight, cross and whatever else you may need depending on your needs.
  • 12 volt test light, extremely handy for troubleshooting 12v troubles.
  • Good hammer, I carry a 16oz Ball-pein type which works wonders when you need it.
  • Ignition wrench set, allen wrench set and a “feeler gauge set.”
  • Lastly, I carry an assortment of what I call “goodies”, clamps, bulbs, fuses,  spare wire and connectors, nuts and bolts, electrical tape, duct tape, Teflon tape, silicone gasket material, rubber freeze out plugs, tire plugs.

As I mentioned before, this set of tools has been my choice over the years to keep things going. I’ve changed oil and filters with the addition of a universal-type filter wrench, replaced spark plugs, changed fuel filters, replaced brake pads, repaired broken wires, plugged leaks on everything from fuel to water and air as necessary. I’ve improvised wiring for a trailer to keep the lights going and replaced a busted heater hose a few times. The size of my tool box is approximately  9” x 15” x 13” tall and there is room for more inside. Another consideration should be the need for “metric” tools, depending on you individual needs. Many vehicles today are metric and will require you to adjust your tool inventory as such. This tool set will also cover a great deal of home/shelter/retreat repairs if you again plan what you may have to do. An example would be with the addition of a pipe wrench you would be able to tackle plumbing repairs such as cleaning a  water well pump strainer from debris. As mentioned in the beginning, plan for all sorts of mechanical problems, consider what tools are required and adjust your inventory accordingly. If you carefully think all situations out thoroughly, your tool supply should be able to handle most anything that happens to arise.

Now to really complete your tool supply , you need to consider what special requirements that you may need. How about jacks as a beginning point, you should have a hydraulic bottle jack  and/or what I call a “farm jack” included in your tool supply. The bottle jack depending on its lifting capacity can solve many “lifting” situations. It will raise a vehicle including trucks/trailers, jack up a building if necessary. The farm type jack is versatile because it can “push” or “pull” as well as lift/raise. So with the easy addition of these two items you have the ability to raise, jack, push, pull and even if necessary use in some sort of improvised rescue situation. As I mentioned before that a 12VDC test light can assist in 12V repairs but the ideal choice would be a “multi-meter”, they are available everywhere from the basic variety to the extravagant type. Let your budget guide you on this, bottom line is that they are indispensable for troubleshooting various electrical problems. These types of meters can test DC (low voltage) as well as AC (high voltage).The important thing  to remember is “know” how to use it and what you are working with. Obviously if you need electrical training check out your community college for a class on basic electrical skills/repairs. My personal favorite add on equipment would be an air compressor. With this addition to your tool “cache” you will be able to air up tires, perhaps inflatable boats, blow out wet items, run pneumatic tools and the possibilities go on and on. Compressors come in all types and sizes, my favorite is the small electric variety, I used this type for the above mentioned as well as to run pneumatic nailers for remodeling work. There are all types of tools available for drilling, grinding and cutting. Again think about your needs then plan out the tools required.

Tools are just the beginning, you may need some type of mechanical training but common sense will cover most of the items that will need to be repaired. Shop manuals are really the key to preparedness, if you have the information required all should proceed according to your plan. Again as in all preparedness plans, look at all the “what if” scenarios, to determine what tools you will need to handle what needs to be repaired.

Good luck and head out for your local tool store to start “stocking up” your tool supply.



Letter Re: Space-Efficient Shelving Systems for Retreat Storage

Hello Mr. Rawles,
I am new to your blog but after reading “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It” and currently reading “Patriots”. I am an active reader of your blog. I am an Eagle Scout and by living the Boy Scout motto, Be Prepared. I have already been living the lifestyle without even knowing it. However, there are things that I still need to work on which is also complicated by the fact I am currently in the military and some of the areas are lacking due to the complex issues this create for myself. For example, moving every two to three years makes it difficult to stock pile on some things and I find that I have stuff spread across America in storage units, with family and friends.

Today, I saw something that would be beneficial for many people. Storage is a huge issue because many of us do not have unlimited funds and adequate space available but by being prepared this requires us to turn any space into storage space. If you have a garage, basement or other large storage facility you should consider installing a sliding shelf system, similar to the ones you see in hospitals for storing medical records. The shelve slide around on runners and only two shelves can be accessed at any one time however you can slide the shelves as necessary to access any of the shelves as needed. This makes it possible to maximize storage space but also allows you to maximize organization. Since the shelves slide together like books in a book case you can then post load diagrams as well as packing list of what is in stock, when it expires and even the shortages that need to be filled. I would also recommend that you also hang a note pad and pen to write notes of what is added, used, or even list of items needed.

These shelving systems are not cheap brand new. Therefore, I recommend that you keep an eye out for clinics and hospitals that are upgrading there current system and try to purchase the old shelving units. However, you could also install heavy duty, high quality caster wheels on your current, homemade or new shelving. Without having the runners it will be imperative to have handles mounted on the outside to assist with maneuvering the shelves. Do not go cheap on the wheels because a broken wheel could quickly make such a system difficult to use. In fact, as with everything else, buy some spare caster wheels so that they can be replaces as needed. If you buy the extras when you purchase the original set you know that they will fit perfect when it is time to replace them. Also, by having caster wheel installed you lift the shelving units off the floor which helps prevent moisture damage, which leads to rust and also will help reduce rodent and bug issues. You will be able to place traps and bait stations below the shelves.
Be Prepared, – S.K.



Letter Re: Goats for Thrifty Livestock Feeding

I love the Christmas season, and it is not for all the time and money wasted watching kids rip open boxes with toys or gadgets that they will forget about in a month. I can really reduce my hay bill for January even in the worst winters. Round about December 21st, I post small notices at the library, banks, and other places that will let me that advertise; “Tree Removal – $5 Mountain/Clean Trees or $10 all others” Costs me less than an hour of my time to make and post the notices and nets me between 50-100 trees a year. I’ve only had two clients ask where I take the trees. My answer, “I feed my goats.” Remember, goats are browsers and would prefer to dine on trees than hay. As a bonus, when the stock is done, I’ve got firewood.

Spring is another great season for me. The best goats I’ve ever gotten were free. I keep the word out around town and inevitably end up with at least one bum every year. I’ve raised cattle, sheep and goats all free. Last year, someone gave me a mare and foal. Why, because the foal is blind and the mare hasn’t been earning her keep. The mare is due to foal again in March. That is three free horses simply for being willing to take someone’s rejects. This is a good way to get stock if you know what to accept and what to pass on or send straight to slaughter. We have filled our freezer numerous times on free cattle and sheep. Another trick I use in Spring is to drive every night behind the local greenhouse. They throw away an amazing quantity. Because it’s not grass, the goats go nuts over it. I kid out in January-March and I’ve never had to feed grain, the extras from the greenhouse keep everyone sassy. Now that leads to another source: broken bags at the stores. I have a route I drive each week that nets me 1-6 bags of free/reduced feed. Goats don’t care if they eat rabbit food. Chickens love dog and cat food. [JWR Adds: Be sure to read ingredient labels carefully!] This way, when I have to lure in an escape artist or feel like giving everyone a treat, I don’t have to pay so much for it.

Summer is the hardest time of year for me. I don’t own any land suitable for livestock. I use my parents’ barn and pastures all year. I have gotten on friendly terms with the neighbors. I also have a solar-powered electric fence earned as payment for eating down the city’s weeds. Since high school, I’ve grazed off the barrow pits along the county road to their place. I’ll admit, it is a lot of manual labor for sometimes a bit of free feed, but some years it can’t get all eaten down and people still end up mowing them. I also beg the use of empty pastures, though it is easier to find pasture for horses and cattle than goats and sheep. Summer is the season I bug the tree services. I’ve got one or two that will let me know when a real leafy tree is coming down and I’ll give them free labor for all the leaves/branches we can stuff into our trucks. Evergreens or hardwoods, the stock doesn’t care. The greenhouse treasures are not as welcome this time of year by the goats, usually because they are browsing on pasture, but I still bring them home. Summer is also the season we start delivering hay. We have been paid in the past to clean out hay storage. Usually this starts coming in as our pasture starts running out. We also let it be known that we are not adverse to weeds in our hay. Over the years, I’ve gotten several tons of hay for $10-50 a ton because it was too weedy to be sold to anyone else. One of our suppliers was shocked to see the goats trample the timothy to get to the bindweed in the bale. Last year, hay averaged $115 per ton, so this saved us quite a bit.

Fall is they hurry-up season for me. This year my son and I made quite a bit of money raking leaves. Again, they all went to the stock. For each truck load of loose leaves, I saved a bale of hay. I don’t reveal the reason we are the cheapest service in town is because it saves me money to take them home and not to the dump. We also watch for those that have bagged their own leaves. We get permission to take the bags. Usually they are grateful we are grabbing them. These we store next to the hay in the hay shed for late season treats between the first snow and Christmas trees. Depending on the weight of the bag, two-four bags save me a bale of hay. Fall is when people clean out their gardens. This year, we had a lady borrow two of our gentlest goats and simply turn them loose in the garden after she was done with the harvest. For the most part, we donate labor to pull out gardens and it all goes to the stock. I sort as we unload and end up with food for our table too. I don’t raise pigs, but for those that do; free feed is easy. I have a friend that stops by all the grocery stores, fast food joints and restaurants in town with her pick-up once each day. She raises 20-30 hogs a year and never buys food. She passes on what is still safe to the family table and to neighbors that are on hard times. I’ve known others that raise hogs to pick up road kill. If you butcher your own stock or game, hogs love the entrails and will pick clean the bones. If I didn’t have these cheap fall backs for feeding my stock, I couldn’t own any. There are probably more that are not available in our area, or I haven’t thought of yet. I’ll keep my eyes open and hope I’ve opened others. – KB



Four Letters Re: Sources for Prescription Medications?

Editor’s Note: As previously mentioned, when this thread was started, the use of anything other than USP Human Grade antibiotics on humans should only be considered in the most dire of circumstances, where there is no other choice.

Jim,
In reference to the question of sources for prescription medications, I recommend that readers interested in stocking up on medicine take a copy of Wilderness Medicine, Beyond First Aid, by William Forgey, to their primary care physician and show them the list of medications listed in the book. Explain to the doctor that you are preparing and that you would like to get prescriptions for the medications listed in the book. You may have to try several doctors before you find one willing to work with you, but they are out there if you keep looking.

Forgey’s book has an amazing amount of information on the most common medical problems which the average person can apply in the field. There are several uses for each medication listed in the book.

A very good source of vet medicine (including lactated ringers for vet use) is SHOPMEDVET.COM. They also have sutures, instruments etc which are priced very reasonable. Amazon.com also has a large amount of medical supplies and medicines available on their website.

One other suggestion for obtaining some of the medical supplies that individuals may be looking for is to look for pharmacies going out of business. We obtained several boxes of sealed syringes, bandages and other supplies recently at a pharmacy that was closing. Thanks for a great site. – Sandy M.

 

Jim:
Your readers may find Atlantic Medical Supply useful as a mail order source for IV fluids.
Regards, – H.S.

 

Sir,
For the past three decades our pharmaceutical industry has been telling us the ‘bugs’ are resistant to antibiotics, so they must constantly look for new antibiotics, which is expensive. They lie. The truth is, they don’t make any money on simple Penicillin G, tetracycline, terrramycin, and staple sulfa powder anymore, and they are in business to make money for their investors.

So, where do you get a long term supply of simple basic antibiotics? The Answer: Your local feed store. They try to tell you such antibiotics are not for human consumption, but that’s a lie. It never made economic sense to have two assembly lines for antibiotics–one human, one animal–when just one line can service both humans and animals with just a change of label. The drug companies are run by economics too. Ranchers and farmers know this, and it is rare the rancher or farmer that doesn’t treat himself with antibiotics that they bought for their animals, with no deleterious effects.

Terramycin powder is used for hogs, chickens, birds of all sorts, and bees. It is a water soluble powder, and will last for many years. Penicillin G, shaken once each two weeks and stored in an ammonia absorption refrigerator at 36 degrees, (no electrical grid necessary), will remain good to use about three years beyond the posted expiration date. Oxytetracycline, same thing. It will last for years if kept cool.

With any injectable antibiotic, follow the instructions on the label, inject by weight of the subject. Of course don’t inject anyone who is allergic to eggs or has had obvious reactions to Penicillin or Tetracycline. But, you can stockpile Epinephrine for such reactions. Again, simply follow the directions on the label.

Stockpile over the counter medications too, one of the best is simple Benedryl or the store-brand generic substitute. Stockpile plenty of simple Aspirin. Got a dog that’s rattlesnake bit? Give him an aspirin (300 mg) in a small piece of meat that he’ll swallow without chewing. He won’t even swell up if you get it into him in the first few hours. This works well on humans too.

Use some common sense, people! Survivalism isn’t an arcane science. It’s mostly common sense and simple action.

We discuss this all the time on my group: SurvivingTheDayAfter@yahoogroups.com and SurvivalBlog is linked as a must read resource. Semper Paratus, – Lawrence R.





Economics and Investing:

Tom W. liked this piece by Todd Harrison at Minyanville: What in the World Is Going On?

Trent H. suggested this video clip: Globe “Overdue for a Currency Crisis”; Why Jim Rogers is Buying Dollars

GG flagged this: The Coming Wave of Debt Defaults

Items from The Economatrix:

Sovereign Debt Defaults the Next Shoe to Drop?

House Passes Massive Overhaul of Wall Street’s Regulations

US Foreclosures to Reach Record 3.9 Million in 2009

North Korean Won Plunges 96% after Gov’t Reevaluation

Venezuela Debt Holders Rush For Exits As Banks’ Woes Surface



Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog’s British-born Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson catalogued another article on the descent into Nanny State Britannia: Three -inch pocketknives illegal in the UK.

   o o o

I was just introduced to a great dry firing trigger kit for Glocks, made by Southwest Shooting Authority. These provide a very realistic feeling trigger pull and trigger reset. Unlike those made by their competitors, the Southwest dry practice kits have a 90 day warranty, and are useful for up to 50,000 trigger presses. Installation and removal are a breeze. (It takes less than a minute for anyone that is familiar with Glocks.) With the current high price of ammunition, I consider dry practice a must, and these kits provide the best way get that practice for Glock owners, with no repetitive slide racking required! To my mind, these kits provide the most realistic dry firing experience. Most importantly, if you get in the habit of racking your pistol’s slide repeatedly in dry practice, that muscle memory might carry over into the high stress of a defensive pistol shooting situation, turning your Glock into a manual repeater, dumping half of your ammo as live “rounds on the ground”. Don’t laugh–people do indeed revert to their training when under high stress.

   o o o

Thanks to Jeff B. for spotting this: Freak winds freeze rural county. (Six to eight foot drifts!)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Sure I am that this day – now we are the masters of our fate; that the task which has been set us is not above our strength; that its pangs and toils are not beyond our endurance. As long as we have faith in our cause and an unconquerable will-power, salvation will not be denied us.” – Winston Churchill, addressing a joint session of the US Congress, December 26, 1941



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 26 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 26 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Growing Your Own Pain Medicine, by David G.

Editor’s Proviso: Please note the following article is presented for educational purposes only. Implementing the steps described below is illegal in most jurisdictions. This article is presented in the context of total collapse of society and government, in which government has become nonexistent.

Pain management is one of the most serious aspects of any medical situation whether it is life threatening or not. Many of us have chronic pain issues which get worse as we age or as our physical workload increases. Pain exacerbates shock when traumatic injuries are sustained. Pain management can comfort us in during palliative care and make the transition into the next world easier – both for the person who is dying and to ease the anxiety of loved ones. The reality is that pain management should be a concern for all of us who are preparing to meet whatever the future holds.

Most of us do not have access to effective pain management medications beyond Tylenol, Aspirin and Ibuprofen. Narcotics that are regularly prescribed for serious pain are unavailable to add to our medical kit, and will certainly be unobtainable when TSHTF. All is not lost, however, but we must be prepared to grow our own painkillers. Fortunately, this is neither expensive nor difficult. The answer is to begin growing opium poppies just as our ancestors did up until a century ago. Opium poppies are used to produce morphine and codeine, and do not require much processing to create a useful painkiller that can be grown in your garden.

Which Poppies to Grow?

Opium producing poppies are known by their botanical label Papaver somniferum. Variants go by the names Giganteum, Hens and Chicks, Persian White, Persian Blue, Danish Flag. Each type will have a different morphine content genetically, and conditions will also affect the potency of the poppy. They are readily available as seeds and are legal to order and possess. 500 to 1000 seed packages can be had for $10 to $20 and are viable if stored in an airtight container in a cool dark place for 3 to 5 years. One poppy pod can produce several hundred seeds that are easily harvested, so a rotating seed stock is easy to maintain.

Growing the Opium Poppy

Opium Poppies tend to like a cooler environment for germination, warmer for the growth phase and into maturity for opium production. Early Spring is a good time to plant when there is still snow on the ground. Some folks plant in the Fall and let the poppies sit dormant over winter to spring to life as it warms up. I have found it best to plant seed directly in the garden and let them germinate there. They require only a shallow covering of topsoil. Soil should be well drained, and sandy soil works well for this. The poppy roots near the surface and does not extend roots down into the soil very far. Sowing many seeds close together and then thinning the group a couple of times early in the growing season works well. The mature poppy needs space – 10” to 12” around the poppy is a good idea. A soil and water pH level of 7 (neutral) is good. Manure based fertilizer is excellent. Water and fertilize the poppies regularly. Poppies are quite hardy, but they don’t like weeds, so weeding your plot is essential.

Poppies grow tall (4’ is common), and so must be somewhat sheltered from the wind. Full sun in a temperate climate is good, but in very warm climates partial shade is appropriate. Once the poppies reach their full height, they will develop a lovely flower and seed pod. The petals of the flower will last less than 2 weeks and will be shed completely leaving the pod. Once the petals appear, cut back on watering, but do not allow the roots to dry out. This will push the pods to produce more opium.

Harvesting the opium

Once the seed pods have shed the petals and the pods are mature, you can begin to score the surface of the pod with a sharp blade. Draw the blade from near the bottom of the pod to near the top. Do not go deeper into the skin than 1/16”. Immediately you will see a milky substance appear. After a couple of hours the substance will begin to get gummy and you can scrape it off the pod with a blade or flexible piece of thin steel like a putty knife. This is the raw opium and will contain a quantity of up to 20% morphine.

The pods can be scored multiple times over multiple days until the plant dies. Once the plant has perished, cut the poppy at the stalk about 5” from the bottom of the pod. The pod will contain hundreds of seeds, and once it has dried, the pod can be crushed and the seeds extracted. The remaining plant matter can be collected and ground up to make a vile tasting tea that has many of the painkilling properties as the raw opium. Seed pods can be harvested and stored for future use and may deteriorate slower than grinding and storing the powder, but they will take up more room.

What to do with the opium

For centuries opium was ingested orally. From the 16th to the late 19th Century, it was sold as Laudanum, which was simply the opium “latex” (the raw scrapings from the pod) that was powdered and mixed with alcohol. As well as being more soluble than water, alcohol aided the painkilling properties of the opium and likely preserved and increased the shelf life. Small bottles of 10% opium and 90% ethanol alcohol would make excellent barter goods and be a way to dispose of excess opium.

As discussed earlier, tea made from adding crushed poppy plant matter to hot water makes a fairly powerful painkiller, but getting the dosage right could be a problem, so using multiple small doses is the best way to start with opium tea.

The best way to meter dosage is to actually smoke the opium latex. Direct heat to the latex works, but not as effectively as vaporizing it. Simple vaporizing is done by heating the pipe bowl rather than applying heat to the opium directly. Small, match-head size pieces can be smoked and the effects are fairly immediate.

Another use for opium

Opium also acts as a good anti-diarrheal agent. The opiate derivatives of opium – morphine, codeine and heroin are known to stop up users. This can be a problem in a survival situation, so starting a laxative regimen may be necessary. But, where diarrhea is accompanied by pain, opium may be the best solution in a self-sufficient environment.

Potential Problems

Opium is addictive and should be treated with due care and respect. Coming off of protracted usage is difficult and painful both physically and psychologically. However, if used for managing real physical pain, addiction is often not an issue as long as the usage is stopped when the pain subsides for good. Opiates are still the most used and often most effective painkillers prescribed today.

Legal issues. While it is widely legal to own opium poppy seeds, it is also just as widely illegal to grow poppies for opium production. Having hundreds of poppies growing in your garden prior to TSHTF will invite arrest. Growing a few poppies for decorative purposes will go unnoticed, and the dried seed pods are widely available for decorative flower arrangements. Growing just a few poppies every year and storing the seeds is what I do.

Where to get seeds

I got my first seeds online after searching Papaver somniferum. There are many dealers, and they are inexpensive to buy. I know have several strains growing in my garden, as do relatives and friends. They are beautiful plants, and will certainly come in handy some day.

Editor’s Proviso: I must reiterate that the preceding article is presented for educational purposes only. Implementing the steps described below is illegal in most jurisdictions. This article is presented in the context of total collapse of society and government, in which government has become nonexistent.



Letter Re: Kevlar Helmets and Head Protection

Most folks focus on vests first when it comes to ballistic protection, but the head should not be neglected. Obviously your brain is one of your most important organs, one of the most sensitive to blunt trauma – and the body part most likely to be exposed when you are behind cover!

A helmet is not a “discreet” piece of gear, and not appropriate for everyday use, but helmets are much-needed ballistic protection in a bad to worst-case situation, e.g., a homeowner in a Hurricane Katrina type situation, or a patrol officer rolling up on a potential shooting. In that kind of situation you would probably prefer that bad guys see that you are armored and a “hard target”, in order to deter an attack. Most importantly, you would (we hope!) be behind cover with just your head showing – so wouldn’t it be smart to protect what is most exposed?

Helmets are also excellent for lessening blunt trauma, though you should be aware that any impact on the head is a serious threat that causes some level of injury – no armor makes you invulnerable. The blunt trauma protection of a helmet is often not given enough weight. Think about it – in a high-threat confrontation you would often be coming under fire and moving as fast as possible, perhaps in the dark. Very likely you would be hitting trees, walls, cars, the cover you are diving for, etc., etc. in your haste to get to cover. Any helmet (even a bike helmet) is desirable so that crashing into hard objects is less of an impact on the brain, possibly saving you from being knocking disoriented or unconscious.

Helmets are excellent ballistic protection from pistol-caliber threats (and Fragmentation) but, sorry to say, rifle protection helmets are not on the market. Traditional mil spec PASGT helmets stop Level II threats (9mm pistol / .357 Magnum) and the latest mil spec, the Advanced Combat Helmet (aka ACH aka MICH) stops Level III-A threats (9mm sub-machine-gun / .44 Magnum). Most people focus on this small increase in ballistic protection of the ACH over PASGT, but what is much more important is the big improvement in blunt trauma protection.

The traditional PASGT Kevlar Helmet has a leather and nylon suspension system that is not particularly comfortable, and provides very little blunt trauma protection. But the latest mil spec for the ACH is a pad system inside the helmet (3/4th inch or 1″ thick / 19 – 25mm) that absorbs a lot of shock that would otherwise be transmitted to the skull.

If you already have an older PASGT not to worry! You can upgrade with a PASGT Retrofit Kit to bring the old PASGT up to the ACH standard for blunt trauma cushioning.

If $70 is not in the budget, there is a very inexpensive accessory called the Parachutist Foam Impact Liner that is almost as good. Airborne troops used to get a 1/4″ (6mm) thick pad which the Air Force research found is roughly 70% as good as the ACH pad system. We would recommend that as a minimum upgrade to older PASGT helmets.

Either way, there is one upgrade to vintage PASGTs that is mandatory to keep the helmet secure, and prevent bobbing of the helmet when you are moving. This is replacing the old 2 point chin strap with a 3 or 4 point system that connects at the back.

Helmet Buying Checklist

1. PROTECTION – whether it stops Level II or Level III-A threats is less of a factor than whether it has an ACH blunt trauma pad system. Personally I’d rather have the old PASGT Level II protection – with the ACH pads retro-fitted in – than a newer Level III-A helmet without the ACH Blunt Trauma Pads.

2. COVERAGE vs. ERGONOMICS – the ACH shape has no brim, and is cut short on the back and sides for better hearing, and better ergonomics in the prone position. The PASGT has a brim, and is longer back and sides for more coverage (photos).

You can get Level III-A helmets in the PASGT shape, so it really depends on your situation and personal preference as to which is better for you–e.g., maximum protection in a vehicle, or for a non-combatant – go for full coverage with the PASGT shape. For a “trigger puller” who needs to go prone – ACH.

3. COLOR is not a determining factor as you can spray paint the helmet, or put a cloth helmet cover on. We do recommend Tan as a good all around color, as solid Black can tend to stick out.

4. FIT AND STABILITY is critical. The chin strap must be connected at the back as well as the sides. The helmet must fit snugly and comfortably even with no chin strap. Get a good head measurement to ensure a good fit.

The bottom line – in a bad situation you want ballistic and blunt trauma protection on your head. You have two eyes, two arms, two legs, and two lungs – but only one brain, so keep it safe!

Yours truly, – Nick, Manager BulletProofME.com