Two Letters Re: Sterling Silver Flatware for Barter?

James:
I want to warn readers about selling sterling and coin silver and other “scrap” [precious] metal silverware and jewelry. Most of the buyers out there are not reputable, and only pay a small fraction of the real “melt” value. You’ll get the best prices by selling directly to the silver foundry-type operations.

To make sure that you get paid properly, first weigh your pieces on an accurate scale.

Wikipedia says: “Sterling silver is an alloy of silver containing 92.5% by weight of silver and 7.5% by weight of other metals, usually copper. The sterling silver standard has a minimum millesimal fineness of 925.”

So… When selling [“Sterling” marked silver] for scrap, you multiply the weight of your pieces by .925. That gives you the actual silver weight.

If you don’t have a Troy ounce scale, then you will have to convert (calculate) regular [avoirdupois] ounces to Troy ounces.

[JWR Adds: A Troy ounce is 480 grains,whereas an avoirdupois ounce is 437.5 grains. (There are 12 Troy ounces to a Troy pound, not 16!) To convert: Multiply the number of avoirdupois ounces by .912 to get the approximate number of troy ounces. And I should also mention that “Coin” silver jewelry –often marked “Dollar”, “D”, or “900” is .900 fine.]

Then figure that a legit scrap buyer will only pay you about 70% of the silver value, based on the days’s spot price. That may not sound like much, but you have to take into consideration their handling costs, fuel and labor costs for melting, and them compensating for their occasionally getting gypped by people that include some fake “Sterling” pieces that are actually just silver plate. So, 70% is actually pretty fair, considering.

The rip off artists that mentioned only pay about 20% to 30% of spot. So, like I say, beware! – Glenn in Atlanta

 

Hi Jim,

Regarding sterling silverware, I’d like to mention that Northwest Territorial Mint will buy sterling silver flatware and other [scrap] silver items.

They are are an honest outfit, as you know. – JM3





Economics and Investing:

From reader G.M.H.: Recession Worse than Prior Estimates, Revisions Show

Sven sent this: Card Companies Ready to Settle Up

Items from The Economatrix:

Middle Class Suicide

The Collapse of Commercial Property: Towers of Debt

Gold Will Hit $1,000 Again

The Future Made Simple
(The Mogambo Guru)

Goodbye Bland Affluence

Job Levels Won’t Rebound in California Until 2013

Unpaid Property Taxes Hit Localities


Disney Earnings Drop 26% on Weaker Theme Park, Media Results

Oil Slips Below $67 as Euro Stocks Falter



Odds ‘n Sods:

Craig K. sent us this: Germans Hoarding Traditional Light Bulbs

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Congressmen “fearful for their safety” as town hall meetings “run wild” (Thanks to F.G. for the link.) Gee, it sounds like the “Angry Villager Rule” from Dungeons and Dragons. Perhaps the sale of tar and feathers should be banned, just in case.

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House Approves Overhaul of Food Safety Regulations Some claim that this would give the US Government total control over food production.

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Five Freedoms You’d Lose in Healthcare Reform



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The president has got to stop promising renewed growth. While this would affect the perceived “standard-of-living” as measured in things like shopping mall sales and vehicle miles driven, it would not necessarily mean diminished “quality-of-life.” It would mean different ways-of-life for a lot of people — for instance, young adults who had expected lifetime employment as corporate executives but who, instead, find themselves ten years from now working at farming. We have an awful lot to get real about.” – James H. Kunstler (author of The Long Emergency)



Notes from JWR:

We’ve completed the judging!

The first prize winner for Round 23 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest is Mike S., for his article GPS for Day-to-Day Use and Survival. He will receive: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.)

The second prize winner is Extraman, for his article Going the Extra Mile in Amateur Communications. He will receive a “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

The third prize winner is Carla, for her article Savings and Self-Sufficiency with Homemade Laundry Detergent. She will receive a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Runner-up prizes go to four writers:

Chris M., for It Will Be Skills, Not Gear That Will Count in TEOTWAWKI

Skyrat, for The Jump Kit

Bill in Chicagoland, for Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009

Tall Sally, for Three Rules for Persuading the Sheeple

They will each receive a $30 Amazon.com gift certificate.

Note to prize winners: Please e-mail me your snail mail addresses (both UPS and US mail), and I’ll get your prizes out, right away.

Today we begin Round 24 of the writing contest. Round 24 will end on September 30th, and will feature even more prizes! Get busy writing, and e-mail us your entry.



City Data as a Retreat Locale Search Tool

SurvivalBlog Readers:
Are you trying to find small towns to evaluate for potential relocation? I’ve been wrestling with the process and have found it tedious at best. There is a web site, however, that can be a valuable resource: City Data. If you follow this link you will come to a page that has the states listed. Click on the state you are interested in Idaho, for example. This link takes you to a list of cities with a population over 6,000. There is a link at the top of the page that lists towns and villages with a population between 1,000 and 6,000. Follow that link and your are presented with a list of towns and their population (Bovill and Troy are under 1,000). When you select a town it will display detailed demographics (try Orofino). While the amount of detail varies, it contains a wealth of data that we are interested in. In general you will at least find population, gender, age, ethnicity, education, and income statistics. Some pages also contain information about occupation (is this a farming town?) the nearest medical facilities, population density, distance to major population centers, crime, climate, local government and more. It is a fantastic starting place to refine the search for your ideal location. – Scrod

JWR Replies: It has been several years since City Data web site has been mentioned in SurvivalBlog. It is still a good one! I also like the Moving.com web site’s relative cost comparison calculator.

OBTW, take a look at this population density map of the US, Mexico, and Canada. Sometimes a picture truly does tell a thousand words. And on a global scale, The Human Footprint Composite Map hosted by NASA’s web site is similarly enlightening.

See my Recommended Retreat Areas static page for some detailed retreat locale suggestions. And even greater detail (including some useful maps) is available in my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation. OBTW, although it is now a bit dated, I also recommend the book Strategic Relocation by Joel Skousen.

Choosing a retreat locale is a not a “one size fits all” process. A lot of your decision making will be predicated on your work and family situation, your stage in life, and your preference for a particular climate. Differences in gun laws are important to many SurvivalBlog readers. (See Boston’s Gun Bible by Boston T. Party, for a detailed state-by-state comparison.) Taxes are another determining factor. For some of us, property taxes are more important than income taxes.
I suggest prayer and extensive study before traveling to look for retreat property.



Letter Re: Sterling Silver Flatware for Barter?

Mister Rawles:
We know having a supply of junk silver is a good idea, and we’re working slowly toward that goal. What would you suggest for those that have inherited sterling flatware or serving pieces? Not many people seem to use them anymore, we sure don’t, but it’s hard to sell them for cash in today’s economic climate. Do they have any value as trade items in a SHTF scenario? What would you suggest doing with these old family items that don’t hold sentimental value for us? Thanks! – Susan W.

JWR Replies: Unless they have sentimental value, I recommend selling (or trading) silverware, and getting a like value of pre-1965 quarters. Those 90% silver quarters will be much more recognizable and trusted for barter–not to mention that they will be in much more convenient divisible units.



Letter Re: One Way to Visualize Inflation and Dollar Devaluation

Jim,
CRW points out that:
If you had $1,000 in 1900, you could have bought 50 ounces of gold with it, yet today, a thousand bucks will buy only about one ounce of gold Clearly, gold has held its value better than numbers on paper. Fine, but that’s a fairly useless observation.

Consider: gold doesn’t hold its value as well as other things. The overall consumer price index has increased by a factor of only about 32:1 during the same time; that is, gold has failed to hold its value relative to consumer products, primarily because refined gold was already as good as it could get but other products have increased in intrinsic quality and value.

And consider this: you could also have invested your money in 1900 in an interest-bearing savings account at an average rate of return of four percent per year (conservatively less than the actual historical average), and today you’d have almost $72,000. You could get about 72 ounces of gold with that. In other words, keeping your money in gold would have lost you some of your money relative to investing it even at a low, reliable interest rate.

Or you could have invested your money in stocks.

From January 1900 to June 2009, stocks in the Dow Jones Industrial Average appreciated from an index value of 66.1 to 8,447, a ratio of 12s8 to 1. If you’d given up your gold in 1900, you could have turned it into 128 ounces of gold today, in spite of all the stock-market crashes between then and now.

Over the same time, the S&P composite index appreciated from 6.1 to 921.9, a ratio of 151 to 1. Even better. (And I note that even this result represents an average rate of return of only a little over 4.7%– which shows that the stock market isn’t necessarily better in the long run than safe interest-bearing accounts. This conclusion should not surprise anyone, since the returns from these accounts tend to come from the same kinds of business investments that underlie the stock markets, but it’s not generally well understood.)

Inflation isn’t even in the top 20 of things people need to worry about or prepare for today.

You already correctly advise people to buy durable goods instead of gold. Naive comments like CRW’s only distract people from that message.

– PNG

JWR Replies: While his premise does disregard the macro-level investing world, it does illustrate gold’s relative stability versus non-invested paper currency. (What is commonly termed “mattress money.”) It is often mentioned by Austrian School economists that a century ago, one ounce of gold would buy a good men’s suit. It still will, but a $20 bill certainly won’t. Nor will a German 20 Papiermark note. (And the later Mark notes went to almost zero in 1923.)

I cannot over-emphasize this: Gold is not an “investment”. It is merely a safe store of value in times of monetary crisis. Neither I, nor writer CRW have suggested “investing” in gold. For absolute safety, there are very few stores of wealth that can match gold. Granted, on average, stocks would have gained more than gold. But diversified risk wasn’t an option until advent of the first mutual fund in 1928. (The Wellington Fund.) Countless individual stocks have gone bust, and their certificates are now only good for wallpaper. And, granted, savings compounded in an interest-bearing bank account would have also gained more than gold. But until the advent of the FDIC, lots of individual investors lost money in bank failures, too.

I believe a balanced investing portfolio should include some precious metals, but only after key logistics have been secured. To clarify: hedging with some silver and gold is only appropriate after you have your beans, bullets and Band-Aids set aside.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Laura H. spotted this: Congressman: Smart Grid Can be Wiped Out by Electromagnetic Weapons

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S.T. highlighted this: The Bed Bunker. I suppose that if two modules were bolted together, then it might be fairly hard to tote away. But I’d feel a lot better if the entire unit were bolted to the floor or to a wall. The “up on legs” design makes it far too convenient for a miscreant to apply leverage via a large iron bar, or perhaps even a pallet jack, if they planned ahead. (Far too many gun safes get hauled away by burglars!) I suppose that this design might have some utility for someone that is short on storage space. Note: I assume that the locks use double-cut keys. (tamper-resistant), but that is no substitute for a proper vault lock with multiple locking bars and a re-locking mechanism. (Technically, this is a gun locker–not a proper vault.) I’d only recommend buying these lockers if space were at a premium.

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Reader Krys W. advises: “Read between the lines in this article”: Power Shifts in Plan for Capital Calamity

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Thanks to the several readers that answered my query on finding unleaded fuel spouts for Scepter military fuel cans (MFCs). This source in British Columbia sells the small-diameter variety: D.S. Tactical



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Oh, I have lost some of the fights I’ve been in, some sudden little dustups for which I wasn’t well-prepared and a couple of larger ones in which I was mostly just involved as a bit player. If you really want to win you can always be certain to pick in advance a much weaker opponent and crush him, but that’s bullying. Or you can take on someone who outclasses you and really deserves a good beating, and wait for a chance when he’s not in his best shape, though you may have a long wait.

But I’ve never lost a scrap with an opponent whose pants were on fire, while he was swatting at angry hornets buzzing around his mouth and eyes, and while rattlesnakes nipped at his ankles. The trick is to be ready for the hornets, snakes and assorted secondary fires yourself.

By the way: this also applies to political fights on a national scale as much as it does to one in the parking lot behind the local roadhouse….” – H.J. Halterman, Along the Way, 2009



Letter Re: One Way to Visualize Inflation and Dollar Devaluation

Sir,
Let’s look at a way to visualize inflation. Let’s say you had a $1,000 bill in 1900. At that time, this would be the equivalent of letting the government safeguard [about] 50 ounces of gold for you.

In 1933, Franklin D Roosevelt devalued the dollar, and as a result gold’s price rose from $20/ounce to $35/ounce. Equivalently, you could also say the 50 ounces of gold the government held for you now became 28.57 ounces of gold. The government stole 21.43 ounces of gold from you overnight!

In 1971, Richard Nixon ended the Bretton-Woods gold standard for good, and by 1974, gold had risen to $200/ounce. You now had 5 ounces of gold. Thus, between 1971 and 1974, the government stole 16.43 ounces of gold from you.

In 1999, gold bottomed out at $250/ounce. You now had 4 ounces.

With gold nearing $1,000/ounce today, you are down to 1 ounce. Over the last 10 years, the government has stolen roughly 3 ounces of what little gold you have left.

Now instead of paper money, visualize that you did indeed have 50 ounces of gold in your safe in 1900 and that year after year the government broke into your home and stole gold from your safe at this rate. Would you find that acceptable? – CRW



Letter Re: Thoughts on Accumulating Silver

Mr. Rawles,
I would first like you to know your family is in my thoughts and prayers. Thank you and your family for opening our eyes to what is happening all around us and for helping to prepare us for what could happen. To borrow a phrase, “The sleeper has awakened”.

On to my topic. I am what may be described as a prepper and after reading many of the countless articles by investors on the accumulation of silver, I began to take your advice as well as their advice and have been purchasing silver whenever the budget allows. With a family with two small boys (2 and 4) and both my wife and I working, it is hard to justify the expense of obtaining silver or gold for that matter. My point is this, I was purchasing Silver Eagles and after reading many posts on SurvivalBlog, I have turned to buying pre-1965 silver coins as “junk silver”. The going rate right now on auction web sites is 10 or more times face value of the coins. I cannot afford to buy even a quarter bag of silver at a time let alone the half bag ($500) recommended. I work in commodities and watch most very closely along with the weather and the US dollar, but silver and gold are not our main trading. My concern is that there is such a great demand for silver right now. For this example I will use the 1 oz. Silver Eagle. Recently the price over spot to obtain eagles was over $5 (now it is around $2.50 per Eagle). This means that if the going rate [per ounce] in the spot month (the month closest to the month we are in at the time) is for example $14, then you would have to pay $19 dollars per Silver Eagle. All because of high demand. The U.S. Mint has suspended the production of the proof and the uncirculated Silver Eagle because by law, the mint has to satisfy the demand for the bullion Silver Eagle. The same thing goes for the proof gold coins. I am writing this because I am afraid that most people are waiting for silver to return to the $5 area. With the demand for a hedge against inflation, the demand for silver could continue for some time. My advice is to be prepared as possible and don’t count on precious metals to return to previous low levels anytime in the near future. Thank you for all that you do to keep us informed. – Traveller



Letter Re: Distance Traveling by Waterways

Jim,
Thanks for your work. I have been a faithful reader for quite a while (and a 10-Cent Challenge subscriber).

After reading LDM in Colorado’s post, I had to e-mail and correct a few problems. While I know little of white water rafting, I do know about Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs). I was a Coast Guard Boarding Officer for many years, and I would like to correct some of his terminology. Unfortunately, some of his comments could place someone in danger.

The rating system for PFDs is based on capabilities. Specifically,

Type I: Provides 22 lbs of buoyancy and turns most unconscious victims face up in the water. The old “Mae West” PFDs referred to are not rated PFDs and do not meet the requirements for any type of PFD.

Type II: 15.5 lbs of buoyancy turns some unconscious victims up in the water. These provide less buoyancy than Type Is, but they are less bulky and easier to work in.

Type III: 15.5 lbs of buoyancy but does not make any effort to upright an unconscious victim. They are easier to wear than either type Is or IIs.

Type IV: Throwable PFDs such as life rings and seat cushions.

Type V: These are special purpose PFDs. They are usually either hybrid (meaning some buoyancy that can be augmented by an inflation), or automatically inflating PFDs, or even full-coveralls for working in stormy conditions.

Type Vs have many advantages, but they have many drawbacks. First of all – use the right Type V for the task. A Type V PFD that requires manual inflation (by pulling a cord) is of little value to an unconscious person. Also – any PFD that can be inflated also has a greater incidence of failure. In regards to PFDs simpler is often better.

If it is simply a matter of floating in the water, a Type I provides the most closed-call foam, keeps most victims upright, and keeps them floating high in the water – and they do it very simply. However, white water rafting requires more freedom of movement than what Type Is allow. That is why Type Vs are so popular. Hybrids are the easiest to wear for an extended period or time.

Thanks for allowing me to make this correction. If you have a boat – you should have at least one Type IV, and one Type III (or II or I) for each person. In fact, Type Vs are only permitted on boats for specific circumstances – that’s why they are Type Vs. They are designed for water skiing, or work coveralls, or white water rafting. But they are poor substitutes for general PFD needs.

Here’s a couple of links that might provide some clarification:

From the Texas Department of of Parks and Wildlife
From the American Association of Pediatrics
From Boating Safety Sidekicks

Regards, – BES in Washington