Letter Re: Burros for TEOTWAWKI Transport

Dear Mr. Rawles,

I have a question that I have not found addressed on SurvivalBlog. I am a small-statured woman (5’5″, 130 lbs.) living in the desert southwest. I have a retreat that I am currently stocking, and am beginning to think about livestock (aside from chickens and goats, which are a given). While most of my peers keep and ride horses, I’m considering burros instead. My reasoning is that they are already adapted to an arid environment, can forage more easily, are hardier than horses, and are less expensive. They can also be used for packing or pulling equipment. Finally, because of my size, riding one should not be an issue for me.

Your thoughts?

I also wanted to say thank you for your web site — I’ve found it to be invaluable. My heart goes out to you and your wife at this time. – E.

JWR Replies: The Memsahib and I have had a couple of donkeys, over the years. We primarily kept them as guard animals for our sheep. They do a great job of that, and when properly trained are fairly docile packers, although –as with all other equines–no two personalities are alike. They are also very thrifty to feed, compared to horses. (A horse eats, well, “like a horse!”)



Letter Re: Silver Jewelry for Barter?

James,
Thanks for your web site. I find it very informative. And prayers for your missus. I’ve seen recent articles regarding acquiring gold and silver coinage for TEOTWAWKI. My question is this: can gold or silver jewelry substitute adequately for coinage? My thinking is this. In the worst case scenario, there are two kinds of people who will have things to barter – the prepared and the lucky. In dealing with the prepared, a sterling silver ring will be just as valuable as an equal silver weight of pre-1965 dimes. But with the merely lucky? I’m not so sure. In their mind (and their potential inability to recognize/accept fundamental change in the economic world) the face value of the dimes might interfere with the concept of the true (silver) value of the coinage. Plus, by pulling a ring off your finger to barter for example, you might come across as someone in the same boat as the person you are bartering with, leading to more reasonable negotiation. That also might keep attention to you (and your family) to a minimum, as opposed to coming across as someone who might be short on one or two things but otherwise to be envied. Am I off base on any of this? Thanks, – John C.

JWR Replies: I predict that following TEOTWAWKI, it will just a take a couple of weeks for people to mentally “switch gears” and adjust to the new realities of a barter economy.

The main problem with silver jewelry is that hallmarks can be faked. A few choice date numismatic silver dollars have also been faked, but worn non-numismatic silver pre-1965 dimes, quarters, and half dollars have never been faked, to the best of my knowledge. Pre-’65 coins will be accepted in barter without hesitation, while jewelry would probably have to be assayed. And if it were reluctantly accepted in trade without an assay, it would only be at a deep discount. So buy coins, not jewelry!





Economics and Investing:

“Red Hen” sent this bit of global MOAB expansion news: IMF Governors Formally Approve US$250 Billion General SDR Allocation

Courtesy of Steve G.: Credit tightening threatens China’s ‘giant Ponzi scheme’

The Treacherous Path for Housing – 42 Percent of California Mortgages with Negative Equity: $1 Trillion in Mortgages Submerged Underwater in California. $3 Trillion in U.S. Mortgages Underwater and Risking Foreclosure.

From DD: Lowe’s Profit Plunges as Consumers Stay Away

JS spotted this: The “Zimdollar:” Dead, but still used for bus fare. (It sounds like something out a of a novel: $3,000,000,000,000 for one bus fare, and goats for barter!)

Items from The Economatrix:

Wholesale Prices Drop More than Expected in July


Coming Soon: Banking Crisis of Historic Proportions

Reader’s Digest Going Bankrupt

Fed Shut Down “Minority” S&L

New AIG CEO Pay $7 Million, Will be Reviewed, Obama Spokesman Says


Treasury Prices Post Modest Decline



Odds ‘n Sods:

Several readers sent me this piece about backyard poultry partisans: “Chicken Underground” Emerges in Indiana

   o o o

From Cheryl: Vegetable Gardens Help Morale Grow

   o o o

Some great stuff, as always, from Michael Yon: The Kopp-Etchells Effect: “How can you have a better heart?” said a grateful Judy Meikle, 57, of Winnetka, Ill., who is still recovering from the surgery. “I have the heart of a 21-year-old Army Ranger war hero beating in me.” I’ve always been impressed by both the eloquence of Michael’s writing and his skill as a photographer. (For example, his latest shots, of Saint. Elmo’s Fire glittering on helicopter rotors in Afghanistan, are amazing.) If you too enjoy his blog, I’m sure that he’d appreciate your support.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Our whole way of life today is dedicated to the removal of risk. Cradle to grave we are supported, insulated, and isolated from the risks of life- and if we fall, our government stands ready with Band-Aids of every size." – Shirley Temple Black



Notes from JWR:

The big 25% off sale on sleeping bags at Wiggy’s ends in less than two weeks. Take advantage of it! OBTW, with sunspot numbers at record lows, there may be some exceptionally cold winters coming. We must never forget the lessons of the winter of 1887-1888!

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Barter Goods — A Woman’s Perspective, by “Wry Catcher”

Most of the survival information published today comes from thoughtful and hardy men who plan, prepare, and protect themselves and their families from disasters.  My admiration and appreciate for such men cannot be overemphasized. I doff my hard hat to all of you. There are, however, some elements of survival that are perhaps better served from a woman’s perspective. In particular, this article focuses on barter goods – those items that can be traded to other survivors for an improved quality of life or for basic necessity.

For purposes of clarity and ease of reference, this article is divided into age groups.  That’s because each age group has a specific set of needs and wants, aside from basic survival supplies. Let’s get to it! 

Infants and Toddlers
Baby Formula: Mixed with water, formula is an essential component of a youngster under two years of age when the mother is unavailable due to illness or injury or death, or the mom is not lactating. Containers of dehydrated or condensed formula may be bartered to those who need it.  It may also become necessary to barter for it. Although the condensed version can be heavy and bulky, it is often more desired for its flavor.  Additionally, it requires less water for mixing. Dehydrated formula is easier to transport and one package produces more product than wet formula, but it requires more water for dilution and its taste is less pleasing than condensed. Of the two basic forms of formula, however, this survivalist would opt for dehydrated formula as a useful and valuable barter item.   

Chew Toys: Chew toys aren’t just for dogs.  Very young children like chew toys, too. The toys help with teething and they keep a child content when parents are busy. Be sure to acquire those that have no extraneous parts, and any painted surfaces must be non-toxic and non-allergenic. To be safe, buy those that are made of new materials and have little or no decoration that could come off, including surface colorations. Go for the plain models, in other words. The child who wants a chew toy is not looking for anything fancy, just something to mouth.  Do not acquire a chew toy that could be swallowed or could block the airway. The toy must be too large to fit wholly within the child’s mouth. Any store specializing in infants and toddlers should have a wide array of acceptable chew toys, although they may prefer the term “teething ring” to “chew toy.”  Most people working to survive a disaster of any type are not going to plan for something as specific as a child’s chew toy. They will, however, soon learn that their young one will be much happier and therefore much less fussy if there is something fun and safe to chew on. The toys will make good barter for adults with young children, and chew toys take up little space and weigh next to nothing. If teething infants are not part of your survival group, these toys may be used as dogs’ chew toys or as older children’s playthings if not too infantile in decoration. Keeping the toys simple will make them more versatile.

Pull Toys.  Toddlers like to walk, and when they walk, they like to drag something along with them. A few inexpensive pull toys will provide hours of enjoyment for them.   If the toy makes a little noise, the fun is doubled. Beware those that have excessive parts – they are harder to repair and could become a choking hazard.  

Ages 4 – 9
Crayons & Coloring Books.  Nothing keeps a youngster as content and therefore as quiet and occupied as a set of crayons and a coloring book. Put aside some girl-oriented coloring books and some books appropriate for boys.  Girls like girly things: houses, clothes, female figures, rainbows, horses, and furry critters. Boys like trucks and tractors, robots, war scenes, cowboys and Indians scenarios, and outdoor scenes.  These are the types of outlines that coloring books should contain in order to satisfy a child who is cast into a situation where her/his world may be vastly different and his/her friends may be unavailable.  If your own child has a particular preference, be sure to include that theme in your acquisition. Published coloring books will have gender-specific covers that will immediately signal whether they are more appropriate for boys or for girls.  Crayons should be non-toxic and come in a wide variety of colors. Acquire several boxes of crayons and do not remove them from their boxes, they will be less likely to melt. Obtain or make several coloring books, some for your own children and some for barter or charitable donations.  Downloading outlines and compiling them into 3-ring binders can be done in lieu of purchasing published books.  Kids of all ages might find them fun, whether they color on them or not. Older children may use the books for paper airplanes or for journals. Crayons are useful for adults, too, when an all-weather writing instrument is needed.

Hard candies add a sweet touch in what may otherwise be a sour situation.  Kids love candy, and giving them an individually wrapped hard candy at midmorning or mid-afternoon may be a treat that eases the change in routine which is an unavoidable part of any survival scenario. Although there are some drawbacks to storing candy, the rewards for doing so will offset any problems.  Store them in rodent proof containers and in a cool, dry location and they should be good for 12 months or more. Dental hygiene may be difficult, and too much of anything is seldom good, so ration the dole and don’t divulge the hiding place. Families will want to add some candy to their provisions, so lay in a supply of individually wrapped hard candies.  [JWR Adds: The ingredients for candy store much longer that wrapped candies, but even old candy that has “gone sticky” is generally still safe to eat. An annual candy-making session can be a lot of fun for kids, and it is also economical. Our favorite to make at home is molasses taffy.]

Clutch Toys.  Yard sales often provide an inexpensive source for small, fluffy clutch toys. These are toys that young children can carry with them for comfort and companionship. Look for small, soft toys and dolls that are clean and, whenever possible, brand new in the package. All loving parents want their children to be happy whether in good times or bad, so items that children want will make good barter items.      

Ages 10 – 13
Brain & Drain Items. This age group may be the most difficult to keep occupied and happy. Full of energy, full of questions, and accustomed to technological gadgetry, these young people need to keep their minds and their bodies busy. They need to use their brains and drain their physical energy.  A few jigsaw puzzles or pocket-size game books (don’t forget the pencils) will suffice for after-dinner wind-down time, but these kids need something more challenging and physical during the day.  A couple of Frisbees or a boomerang may keep the boys busy for a while. Girls may enjoy a small cosmetic set (with a built-in mirror) or a compact sewing kit with several colorful fabric scraps.  Don’t forget decks of cards for those inclement weather days. A small paperback book enumerating card game rules will help resolve the disputes that invariably arise from such games. Decks of cards for specific games, such as Pinochle, Crazy Eights, Touring, and Old Maid will make a more interesting barter item. Get generic decks of cards as well as  decks of specific card games to use as small, lightweight trade enticements. A colorful, genuine jump-rope would be prized by any girl in this age bracket. And boys might enjoy a Nerf ball.  I’d steer clear of baseballs and the like in order to avoid injury and damage. Kids this age are creative and will make up various games with simple items when they get bored. Having some of those simple items as barter bait may be a good investment.  

Ages 14 – 17
Independent & Vital.  This age group wants to be treated as adults, that’s true whether in a survival situation or not. Treat them as such.  These young adults should be given some responsibility, for their own sake and so that the true adults have fewer tasks. Give them something meaningful to do and they will prove themselves. Let them instruct the younger children.  Perhaps they can devise a gentle means of discipline for their siblings.  Ask them to forage, if necessary. Assign tasks to them that require some thought and/or some physical prowess, and make those tasks unique to them. Provide them with some of the trappings of adulthood.  Adult trappings for young men may include:  a good quality knife, a multi-tool, a locking cache box, or their own small tent for privacy.  The females in this age category may appreciate name-brand cosmetic kits, a shoulder bag (purse), or a colorful pair of sandals. These young people are seeking their place in life. They want to be set apart yet they also want to be an important part of the family. Items that help them attain a sense of usefulness and equality will be practical in barter negotiations.

Senior Citizens
Along with infants, this age group will likely need the most attention and care. That is not to say they should be ignored or resented, but it does mean they present an opportunity for the clever and well-prepared barterer. Having what they need and want may enable you to get whatever you need and want.

Personal Care.  Denture cream, magnifying glasses, packets of facial tissues, hand creams, bucket hats (this style of hat is often worn by both men and women), cold packs, heat packs, compact chess and checker sets, large print puzzle books (don’t forget the pencils), condoms, over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications,  Ben-Gay, Vick’s Vap-O-Rub, hard candies, and sunglasses.  While perhaps not as vigorous as they once were, these elderly folks can provide much depth and affection in a family, particularly for the children.  They should be treated with the respect and care they deserve. When they or their family have nothing to trade, a caring person will provide the barter item anyway. That’s what keeps us human.  

Adults
Almost Anything
.  Those people who fall between the ages of 19 and 64 carry the majority of the burden in providing for themselves and their families in all life’s situations.  Of course there are exceptions, but generally speaking that age group has the largest responsibility for the care and feeding of all others. As a trade-off, though, this age group is also the least likely to need extra help and supervision.  Still, we all like to have our own needs and desires fulfilled.

Some good barter items for this group, and in general, include pocket knives (get some small and colorful ones for the ladies), condoms, individual cosmetics, WISP (Colgate product) toothbrushes, .22 ammo, honey, Vaseline, sturdy work gloves in various sizes and colors, romance and mystery paperback books, spare batteries in various sizes,  feminine and masculine baseball-style caps, pocket sewing kits with spare buttons, eyeglass repair kits, used hand tools (hammers, wrenches, screwdrivers, folding pruning saws), tampons,  pencils and pens, journals, and bags of jerky. A word of caution:  don’t trade anything to anyone that could later be used against you or your family. For example, don’t barter ammo or a fixed-blade knife to someone you don’t trust, unless you absolutely need what they have and can’t get it elsewhere.     

Conclusion
No one can plan for every survival scenario.  What we can do, however, is set aside some items that can be bartered for those items we forgot, used up, or never knew we would need. The purpose of barter goods is to acquire honestly and peacefully what we want and need during times of trouble. These items also work well as charitable gifts to those in a worse way. All the items listed in this article are inexpensive and easy to acquire now, so start acquiring them now.  They take up little space and their individual weight is negligible.. Most of these things can be set aside for years, with nary a concern for their stability. Some can be obtained at yard sales or discount stores, other items can be purchased over a period of time. Each item will prove its value, whether for the specified age group or for a purpose not outlined above.  In other words, you will not be wasting your valuable space, time, or money by acquiring some or all of these items in small quantities.  I urge you to study the suggestions, think of some of your own, and create a separate bin, box, or bag for barter items.  Then place that container with your other survival gear. Good luck and God bless!



Letter Re: Comfort and Holiday Foods for Family Food Storage

James,
My prayers and best wishes to you and your family. May the Lord sustain you during these trying times. Regarding "comfort foods", "Momma" makes sure to keep plenty of baking supplies on hand to make "goop"; sweet things with no nutritional value but loaded with morale-boosting ability.

We also have many jars of home-canned preserves, marmalades, chutneys, relishes and other additions to spice up otherwise bland meals. A little bit goes a long way.

I hope this might give some folks an idea to spice up their menus. Thanks, – Crustyrusty



Economics and Investing:

The dip in silver that you’ve been waiting for has arrived. Take advantage of it. Come November, you’ll be patting yourself on the back for your foresight.

Steve G. sent us the latest from Mish Shedlock: As of Friday August 14, 2009, FDIC is Bankrupt. Don’t worry, be happy. Uncle Tim and Uncle Ben have a plan: Just add linen paper and ink!

A hilarious interview with The Mogambo Guru (aka Richard Daughty) was posted by The Daily Bell.

From Heather H.: Mountain of Debt: Social Security crisis looms. Heather’s comment: “Finally, someone had the guts to call Social Security a ‘Ponzi scheme’.”

Federal Reserve Secretly Buying Treasuries at Auctions

Even more in the The Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB): Social Security crunch coming fast. (Thanks to DD for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Plunge as Investors Worry About Consumer Spending

AP Investigation: California Lawmakers Boost Staff Pay (“What budget crisis?”)

Mike Whitney: The Economy is in Deep, Deep Trouble

Chicago City Government Closed Monday Due to Budget Constraints.

Europe and US Still at Risk for Deflation Trap

Lack of Inflation Means No Rise in Social Security Benefits

Consumer Confidence Falls Unexpectedly in August Yikes! The lowest measure of buying confidence in 60 years!

Stocks Drop Around the World on Economy Concerns

Darryl Schoon: Gold and Why Gold Now?

Wave of Foreclosures About to Break US Housing Market Dam







Notes from JWR:

I was recently featured in a slightly tongue-in-cheek article in La Razon, a major newspaper in Spain: Survivalistas: preparados para lo peor.

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Inexpensive Hand Reloading Tools–Part of Budget Preparedness, by D.A.S.

“Everything in life is a trade-off.”  There’s wisdom in that and anyone who wants to be prepared has to make the best trade-offs for functionality and their budget. 

Most people who prepare for emergency scenarios, whether it be civil unrest, terrorist attack, EMP, or whatever, include a firearm in their plans. A firearm provides protection and a way to harvest game that is second-to-none.  But firearms require cartridges and there’s the rub.  Unless your last name is Gates, Walton, or Rockefeller, you can’t afford to have 10,000 rounds of ammunition just setting around.  If you have regular job and are working on being prepared as a contingency, you can’t spend all your money and time on ammunition.  There are too many other things that need to be bought and done.

This article assumes you know some basic nomenclature.  If you look at a centerfire cartridge, that is almost any [modern brass-cased[ cartridge except a .22 you’ll see on the bottom a circle that is the primer, which is the contact explosive which sets off the main gunpowder charge.  The cartridge case is the brass tube that holds the primer and the bullet.  The bullet is the projectile that the powder charge forces down the barrel and out to do the actual work.  Fully loaded and ready to shoot, this is called a cartridge. 

Reloading your ammunition is a way to get multiple shots from one cartridge case.  Reloading treats the bullet, primer, and powder as expendables, and recycles the brass case to be used again.  Here again, there are trade-offs.  You can easily spend over $2,000 for reloading supplies for just one cartridge and need a full-size workbench just to reload your ammunition  $2,000 buys a lot of ammunition and unless you are a competitive shooter who shoots hundreds of rounds a week, this is probably not the way you’ll want to go.  You can step down to a couple hundred dollars for a reloading press and dies that will do an excellent job, but still is bulky and hard to transport if you have to leave in a hurry.

There is a way to reload that only takes up about as much space as a paperback book and only requires a wooden stump and a small chunk of wood to completely reload ammunition if you have the consumables: the Lee Loader. This simplified reloading device was invented in 1958 by Richard Lee.  Although the center fire rifle and pistols reloading kits did not come around until a couple of years after that.  I recently purchased a couple of loaders for less than $20 each online on sale.  This will give you easily over $100 to spend on consumables.  You can stock up quite a bit of primer, powder, and bullets for the $100 (at minimum) you saved by going with a Lee Loader. 

These loaders have superb accuracy and lengthen the life of the case because they only size the neck of the case.  A regular press with dies sizes the whole body which is necessary if your brass has been fired in more than one firearm.  However, if you’re only using one firearm for that caliber, the brass will fire form to fit that chamber like a glove.  The accuracy is second to none.  For over seven years, according to the Lee web site, the Guinness World Record for accuracy was held by ammunition loaded by a Lee Loader. 

[JWR Adds: Because these small hand presses do not full-length re-size cases, they may prove unsuitable for reloading ammunition for many semi-auto rifles, but they usually work fine for single shot and bolt action rifles. ]
  
The small plastic case contains four or five parts that let you de-prime, size, re-prime, charge, and seat the bullet on the case.  I’ve seen a video on You Tube of a man starting with a once fired case, completing all the steps and having a round ready to go in 40 seconds.  I wouldn’t recommend going this fast.  Although, after using one to reload several hundred rounds, you’ll begin to get a rhythm that will increase your speed.

The first step is to de-prime the case.  The kit comes with a de-priming pin and de-priming chamber which basically holds the base of the cartridge but doesn’t support the spent primer.  By sliding the pin through the case neck onto the primer, a simple tap with either a non-marring hammer or a piece of wood drives the spent primer out of the case. 
Here’s where an extra not included in the kit can be very handy.  A case-specific trimmer can be used to make sure that the brass hasn’t flowed forward and your case has hence become too long.  The
load card that comes with the kit gives the maximum trim length of the cartridge as well as the maximum overall length.  So another extra that would be very handy is a set of calipers. 

The second step is resizing the neck.  The largest part of the kit is the resizing chamber which is just a piece of steel machined to the size of the case.  By putting the case into the chamber and driving it home with whatever you used to de-prime the case, you size the neck to fit the new projectile. 

The third step is to re-prime the case.  With the case fully seated in the sizing die, a new primer is set on the priming chamber cup up.  Then you turn the sizing die upside down so that the base of the cartridge is pointing down and place this over the priming chamber.  They are made to fit together so that the pocket and the primer will match over each other.  Then the priming rod is fed into the case mouth just like the de-primer which was used earlier.  A couple of good solid whacks will seat the primer into the pocket.  Because of variations in pocket depth and primer sensitivity, you should make sure that your head is not above the case when doing this.  Although I’ve only had it happen a few times and never had the priming rod fly out, I’ve heard stories of this happening and the pop of the primer going is enough to startle you.

[JWR Adds: I strongly recommend setting the priority of purchasing a Hand Priming Tool. This is not only safer, but will provide far greater consistency in primer seating depth. It is also a tool that you will want to keep, if and when you graduate to a more sophisticated bench-mounted reloading press. With the “feel” provided by hand-priming tool, you will get great consistency, which helps contribute to making the most accurate and reliable ammunition.]

While priming, the base of the case will be driven a short distance out of the sizing chamber. You should put the case on the de-priming chamber because it will protect the primer from any impacts and will make it much less likely to detonate. Use the priming rod to push the case far enough out of the mouth that it will come loose from the sizing die and set on the de-priming chamber.
The next step is to put your powder into the case.  The top of the sizing chamber will now act as a funnel for inserting the powder.  The Lee kit comes with a powder scoop sized in cubic centimeters and a list of powders that will work with this cartridge and this scoop.  The best way to do this to achieve maximum repeatable accuracy is to pour the powder into a larger container, dip the scoop down below the level of the powder, bring up and rake across the top with a stiff piece of paper, like a business card.  From there, you simply dump the powder into the top of the sizing die to charge the case.
Once the case is loaded, all you’ll need to do is insert your projectile.  Use the seater that is integral to the priming chamber to set the bullet by hammering the bullet into the case mouth, creating a newly-loaded cartridge.  Here’s a place where the calipers I spoke of earlier would come in very handy again.  You could check the seating of the bullet to a factory-loaded case.  But a pair of inexpensive calipers would be very handy to make sure the bullet is seated to the proper depth. 

After this is done, you will have a fully-loaded cartridge. However, for the sake of efficient motion, if I am reloading a box of cartridges, I will go through and de-prime them all first and then load them all in batches.  Before you start, you should also wipe down the cases to make sure there is no grit that could case wear on your loader. 

Another nice thing about this way of reloading is that it doesn’t require special lubricant like most other presses.  It also doesn’t require a powder scale, although it could be useful if you want to work up a special load for your firearm. 

So here’s a way to reload a complete cartridge that only takes minimal space, weighs little, doesn’t require a bench or any special tools that don’t come in the case and can load high quality ammunition.  It also costs less than a fifth of what other reloading systems would cost, giving you more money for either consumables or other projects.



Letter Re: Comfort and Holiday Foods for Family Food Storage






Mr. Editor,
I think someone should mention that one part of food storage schemes that is often overlooked is “comfort foods”. These are foods that can be used as occasional pick-me-ups that can break up a really monotonous and bland diet, when you are [living] on storage foods. It is also important to be able to celebrate special events, holidays, and big accomplishments, with something more than just a bowl of canned peaches. But my question is: What comfort foods do I store, that store well for years? Thanx, – Clifford D.

JWR Replies: I agree! Part of keeping harmony in a family during trying times is maintaining the ability to cheer folks up. Several of our advertisers sell “comfort” type storage foods, some with remarkably long shelf lives. These include:

Freeze Dry Guy
JRH Enterprises
Ready Made Resources
Safecastle
Best Prices Storable Foods
Healthy Harvest
Milk on the Moove

For example, see the “Dessert Cakes in a Can” offered by Ready Made Resources, and the freeze dried Raspberry Crumble and Blueberry Cheesecake, both sold by Safecastle.