Jim’s Quote of the Day:

Thus saith the LORD, Stand ye in the ways, and see, and ask for the old paths, where [is] the good way, and walk therein, and ye shall find rest for your souls. But they said, We will not walk [therein].

Also I set watchmen over you, [saying], Hearken to the sound of the trumpet. But they said, We will not hearken.

Therefore hear, ye nations, and know, O congregation, what [is] among them.

Hear, O earth: behold, I will bring evil upon this people, [even] the fruit of their thoughts, because they have not hearkened unto my words, nor to my law, but rejected it.

– Jeremiah 6:16-18 (KJV)



A Vault Full of Hedges: Tangibles, Tangibles, Tangibles!

My gun vault down in Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) is now full. It is a large vault (a Zanotti ZA-III modular six-footer) but it isn’t big enough. For more than 30 years, I’ve been accumulating barterable tangibles: guns, full capacity magazines, precious metals, optics, and knives. Each of these represents a fairly compact and liquid asset. They all have practical uses, although the coins and ingots are more of a medium of exchange rather than something intrinsically useful in and of themselves. (Oh, I suppose the silver could be melted down, cast into bullets, and put to good use if the ranch is overrun by lycanthropes. What if silver someday mysteriously becomes nearly worthless? If cast into buckshot, if propelled by just a wrist rocket slingshot, as Mr. Spock once said, “they would make formidable projectiles” to slay garden pests.)

I rest well at night, knowing that the vast majority of my net worth is either in the form of productive land, or useful tools. The US Dollar could get devalued or wiped out by inflation, and yet that would only hit about 3% of my net worth. This is because I convert my greenbacks into tangibles at the first opportunity, and only keep modest bank balance to pay my monthly bills.

I’ll admit that I may have gone a bit overboard. Do I really need a half dozen spare Swiss Army Knives (of various models), or four spare Cold Steel Knife Voyagers? Probably not, but there they sit, new, stacked up in their factory boxes. But I don’t expect their resale value to go down anytime soon. Do I truly need a stack of HK93 magazines, or Glock 17 magazines, or M14 magazines, when I don’t even own any of those guns? Probably not, but they sure do make great barter items. And why do I have so many stainless Colt M1911 .45 semi-auto handguns? After all, I can only hold two at a time. But perhaps a day will come when my descendants can no longer attend a gun show and walk home with what ever they please, sans papier. And again, I don’t expect them to go down in value.

I suppose that I’ll soon have to buy a second vault, and bolt it down, right next to the existing one. Someday in the future, after I’ve joined the Choir Invisible, my children or grandchildren will have a quite a day, sorting though the contents of my vaults. And something tells me that my heirs won’t be disappointed, or consider it “junk” that they are dividing up.

None of the foregoing is meant to brag. Rather, I hope that you will emulate my approach at investing diversification to prepare for the tumultuous decade ahead. Think: Tangibles, Tangibles, Tangibles!



Letter Re: Increasing Security for an 1870s House

Hello Jim,
My family and I have been offered a great price on a house ($7K,000 for a 3,400-square-foot two-story house, built in 1876, with a full basement and large backyard–the house was originally on the market for $104,000, but the seller hasn’t had any offers in three years, since the housing market crashed) in a small city with open spaces less than an hour’s walk away if bugging out should become necessary.

However, the bigger appeal of this house is the ample space it provides for us and a few other family members, a large backyard for gardening and the fact that most of the rest of our family is less than a 15-minute drive away (or an hour’s walk–and this hour’s walk would put us out in rural areas). My biggest concerns are the large (six foot wide) picture window on the front of the house, overlooking the front porch, and the front door with large window. The house is in a historic neighborhood, and any improvements to the structure of the house have to fall within certain restrictive guidelines because of the neighborhood in general and the fact that the house itself is on the state register of historic places.

I’m well aware of the prospect of smash-and-grab burglaries, especially in houses with large windows such as this one has, but I wonder what kind of modifications could be made to the windows and doors that would minimize the break-in risks. Would it be practical to add reinforced (possibly even bulletproof/brickproof/etc.) glass behind the picture window, and could you suggest possible modifications to the front door as well?

I’ll add that there are several points inside the house where increasing levels of security leading to a safe room can be established without affecting the historic nature of the structure itself.

The house itself is not particularly conspicuous–it’s in a historic neighborhood, so there are literally hundreds of other structures like it in the area, and there’s not much turnover in terms of residents or home ownership. I’ve lived within four-block of this location for almost eight years, so I’m very familiar with the area. A sizable percentage of this area’s residents have lived here for decades and
have no plans to move, so I don’t think flight to the suburbs or beyond is really a problem, i.e., seemingly few worries that this house will be in the middle of a ghost town if things get bad. I think this house could be a major asset as a “bug-in” location and I’m sure my family isn’t the only one looking to stay put rather than getting out of Dodge. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

JWR Replies: Windows that large were not made in the 1870s for middle class houses, so that very large picture window that you described surely must be from a much later retrofit. (Six pane sash windows were the norm.) Even with historic preservation codes, you could easily go back to a smaller traditional sash window, and put a pair of “storm” shutters on it. (Hint: See my novel “Patriots” for details on ballistic shutters.) Just so long as it “looks” period, you should be okay.

Ditto for the door. You can have one custom built without a window (or just a very small, high window), out of 4″ thick solid oak.

Convincing the county clipboard minions just takes some historical research. At your local library or online, find pictures that were taken before 1900 of houses built in the 1870s. Be selective, and find pictures of houses with small windows, storm shutters, and stout doors. These photos will be your leverage needed to get permission to restore your house to an authentic 1870s appearance, and that should make the Historic District Authenticity Gnomes happy.

Good luck with your upcoming move and security upgrade project!



Two Letters Re: Here Comes Winter!

Dear JWR,
I enjoyed the great advice from Peter H. on being prepared in the winter. As a life-long Chicagoan and having spent lots of time snowmobiling in upper Wisconsin, please let me offer a few additional tips on dressing for cold weather.

Keeping warm in the cold is all about layering underneath and waterproof on the outside. I prefer cotton clothes to the newer athletic-type wicking clothes which don’t seem to hold the heat as well. Start with cotton long underwear which is snug but not too tight. A second pair of long underwear is all you should need in the coldest (sub-zero) weather.

On your upper body, add 1-2 cotton t-shirts over the 1-2 pair of long underwear to keep your trunk warm and to leave your arms free to move. I sometimes throw a loose cotton sweatshirt over all of this if it’s really cold. There are lots of parkas on the market. With all the layering underneath, just make sure the one you pick is water-proof (not water-repellant), or has a waterproof lining inside. Also make sure it is oversized to allow room for the layers underneath.

On my legs, I wear a quality pair of cotton jeans over the long underwear, and a quilt-lined bib over the jeans. I’ve taken the advice of guys who work in the outdoors in the winter (one is my best friend who is a union painter in Chicago), and buy Carhartt clothes. I agree with outdoor workers that Carhartt clothes are the best work quality around. The Carhartt bibs are preferable to one-piece snow suits because they don’t restrict your upper body movements while at the same time they are warm, water-repellant, and cut any drafts that can get under your coat. Caution: do not put these bibs in the dryer as they can shrink! These are not totally waterproof, so I sometimes add a pair of ordinary waterproof rain pants on the outside (which also helps cut the wind).

Buy waterproof, insulated, and steel-toed boots. If you walk enough in the snow, eventually you’re going to kick a chunk of ice or a stump hidden under the snow. Buy the boots at least 1 size too large and 1 size too wide to allow room for extra socks and to allow room to wiggle your toes. Having room to wiggle your toes is important to assist blood circulation, which boosts warmth (cramped toes with poor circulation will get cold in a hurry). I recommend boots from Red Wing, which are hand-made right here in America. (I’ve had one of my three pairs of Red Wings now for 12 years, and I wore this pair daily in a manufacturing plant for six of those years. It is the most comfortable footwear I own).

If you have spent a lot of time outdoors in the cold, then you know that your feet and toes will get cold before anything else, and are the hardest to warm-up once they are cold. I wear one pair of cotton athletic socks under a pair of wool socks under a pair of ski-socks. Ski socks are designed to be form-fitting (helps hold the other socks in place) and are padded to cushion your feet in ski boots. A little “trick” comes from my painter friend, who uses simple kitchen baggies to keep his feet warm. Put an oversized baggy over your socks and then go into your boots. The baggies will retain heat and add to waterproofing. This really works well for short durations with a lot of activity (working), or over long durations with little activity (hunting). Just be careful over long durations of heavy activity as the sweat moisture can build-up inside the bags and cause your feet to start pruning.

One last suggestion is to buy an pair of thick, over-sized, waterproof, Thinsulate-lined gloves and a pair of thin, tight-fitting, waterproof, Thinsulate gloves to go inside. I never found any glove liners that really work all that well. By wearing two gloves at the same time, you get the benefits of additional lining and an added layer of waterproofing. Plus, if you need to use your fingers [for fine work], you can pull your hands out of the thick outer gloves without exposing them to the elements.

Of course, all these layers may sound like overkill, but this was taking things to extreme temperatures. The nice thing about layers is that it is always easy to take a layer off if you get too warm.

I hope this helps you stay warm and dry this winter.

Also, please allow me the chance to say thank you and God bless for all the work you do. Besides buying bullion for years, I only started prepping in 8/07 when the credit markets first froze. I’ve been reading your web site daily for over a year, finished Patriots two months ago, and just finished your book on retreats. I sent a copy of Patriots to six close friends and family in the hopes that the light bulbs start going on. I know we’re probably in the eleventh hour, but I’m trying to have a retreat purchased by this fall and hope to get some help from others if they understand. This is a life changing experience and I can’t tell you how much I appreciate all your work. My prayers are with the Memsahib. – Chris G.

Jim,
Peter H’s letter on Winter was spot on. Although I now live where they haven’t seen snow since the last ice age, I used to live in the Colorado high county where it snowed nine months a year and picked up a couple of things:

Tire chains work great but are the most wretched things to get on ( especially if you’re already stuck.). I do three things to make it reasonably easier, besides doing it before I’m stuck..

1. First I lay the tire chain out on the ground in front of the wheel. I made a couple of wood blocks around 5″ square and 21/2″ thick and put one of these into the gap in the chains a couple of feet back from the front of the chain stretched out on the ground. Then I drive forward (this assumes you aren’t stuck already) until the tire is over the block. This frees the chain from the tire and allows you much more slack. Don’t put the block in the center of the chain run or you’ll have to fight to connect both chains ends at the top of the tire. Much easier to drape one long end over and connect near the bottom of the tire.

2. Tire chains are always too short to connect easily, or at all in some situations (as in already being stuck) so the first thing I do with a new set, besides making sure they fit the tires, is extend the outside chain end. The inside link will always connect since you do it first. Buy 6″ of similar chain and a screw carabineer of similar size. Hook up the chain as tight as you can on the tire and put one of those rubber tensioners they give you with the tire chains on the link end and pull it to the opposite side to keep it from flopping around. Drive a few hundred yards and check if you have to tighten things up.

3. Buy more of those rubber chain tensioners.

With regard to Peter H’s suggestion of a hoe to dig out snow from under a car. I must admit I never thought of that. He is absolutely correct in that a regular shovel is useless. The angle of the shovel blade causes it to ride up into the bottom of the car rather than along the ground and snow shovels are too weak to shift hard snow and ice although they are perfect for powder snow if you start shoveling before the disturbed snow sets up hard.

What I use is a shovel called a D-handle sharpshooter. It’s 31” long and it has a D-handle at the top and a long thin straight blade with no pitch on the other end. The blade will go through most anything and it can be swept sideways to remove lose stuff. The D-handle allows full control. Mine has a metal handle and is over 20 years old. Most of my shovels (always with fiberglass handles) wear out the blades in a couple of years of constant use. This one is now 4″ shorter but has followed me to Australia and back.

I’ve used this shovel as a pry bar, brush and small tree cutter and I once whacked a gang member with it outside Denver’s old airport. It’s as useful a tool as you could hope to find.
This brings me to further point. A sharpshooter shovel in a car or even in your hand generates no interest from the police or anybody else, but [if kept sharpened] it’s actually the best edged weapon I can think of this side of a broad sword. It works just fine and if you ever have to defend your actions after the fact, a shovel sounds a whole lot better to the authorities than does a sword, ax, knife, etc. When the cops were called over the gang member incident, I was asked what I hit him with and I said ” a shovel” The cop said I should have hit him twice. Of course it helped that I whacked the guy with the flat rather than decapitating him with the edge.

Kind regards to you and your Wife, – LRM Perth, Western Australia





Economics and Investing:

Eugene in Anaheim sent this: New Cash Steered to Clunkers

Thanks to Karen H. for this: America’s Recession ‘Safe Zone’ Shrinking

From The Daily Bell: Bob Chapman on gold, silver, a bank holiday and the monetary elite

Regulators shut down banks in five states; Regulators close banks in Fla., NJ, Ohio, Okla., Ill.; 69 US bank failures this year

Items from The Economatrix:

Weiss: Urgent Financial and Economic Crisis Investment Strategy Update “It’s only fair to acknowledge that the economic depression I foresaw in my book and in my reports is unfolding more slowly than I had expected. … the next phase of the crisis we’ve been warning you about has been delayed, … [But] my long-term outlook has not changed by one iota! All of this simply means that the calm before the next phase of this financial storm may be prolonged.”

US Government Yuan Bond Threat to US Dollar

Why You Should Not Bank on Banking Stocks

Commodities Still a Lot More Attractive than Stocks

Why Food Prices are Set to Rocket

Squeeze on Pay, Benefits May Crimp Recovery



Odds ‘n Sods:

Karen H. recommended this piece over at the Utah Prepper’s site: Making Better Char Cloth

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Trent H. and GG were the first of nearly a dozen readers to send us this Wall Street Journal piece that is right up our alley: Hollywood Destroys the World The new wave of disaster movies and TV shows isn’t about staving off the apocalypse. It’s what happens afterwards that counts. Viggo Mortensen versus the cannibals.

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SurvivalBlog just became a featured blog at AmmoLand.com

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What part of “no jurisdiction” don’t they understand? Up in arms over gun: Replica rifle has Brooklyn man at odds with cops (Thanks to Tom V. for the link.)





Notes from JWR:

The first post today is a guest article about Tibetan Yaks. The Memsahib and I raised ultra-wooly black yaks, back in the mid-to-late 1990s. We found them quite easy to manage. Our first yak bull (“Yukon Yak”) bred our Jersey cow, but unfortunately, she threw a bull calf. (We were hoping for a heifer.) Our senior yak cow (“Yetta”) originated from a Canadian zoo, and was far from tame! But all of her offspring including our first bull calf (“Black Yak Pershing”) were very gentle. I’ll never forget their distinctive “Uggh, uggh” yak grunts, and the strange sight of their purple tongues!

We sold our little herd of nine yaks in 1998, since I had accepted a job with Oracle Corporation in the San Francisco Bay Area, and could not afford to buy or even rent a house with sufficient pasture land there. We really wish that we had been able to keep them. Yaks are well worth the investment, and quite easy to fence and handle. But, as with any other bovine, never turn your back on a bull!

This is the first entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The winners will receive even more prizes than in previous rounds. For example, we’ve added a HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried foods, courtesy of Ready Made Resources., and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value).

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Yak to the Future, by Judy T.

Tibetan Yaks in America? Why yes, about 5,000 of them, and growing. Why yaks? They are the most versatile animal whether you operate a retreat with livestock or plan to Get out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)

Yaks can be yoked to pull for logging, farming, or transport. They can pack upwards of 250 pounds which I believe is more than llamas, donkeys or most horses. This is great if you want to carry a yurt or hunt elk and want to pack it out instead of dressing out in the field. Yaks can be ridden like horses and basically fill the same niche as an ox or riding steer. They are much more intelligent than cows and are almost as intelligent as smart horses.

They are also loyal and protective guard animals, but are quiet (making only an occasional low grunting sound) when stealth is required and they lay down quietly during the night. They are genetically programmed to be able to successfully defend against wolves and dogs. They have gorgeous large curved horns and hooves that are extremely accurate and precise in finding their target. They are spirited and easygoing, looking like giant horned long-haired bunnies leaping, spinning, and racing around the field.

They are of medium size for a bovine with cows maxing out at about 900 pounds and steers or bulls maxing out at about 1,500 pounds. They can be crossed with other cattle to produce much larger animals due to hybrid vigor. However, bigger isn’t always better and while a pureblood yak eats only about 1% of its body weight per day (1,000 pound yak will eat 10 pounds of hay), a hybrid, depending on whether its ½, ¼, 1/8, etc. will eat 3-to-8% of its body weight per day similar to other cattle. They need only regular pasture grass and grass hay and a mineral block. Grain (wet COB , oats, calf manna, etc.) should only be fed occasionally as a training tool and treat. Don’t feed them alfalfa. Its too rich for them and they have an increased chance of bloating.

Yaks very seldom have the birthing problems of the modern cow. They will calve unassisted in the field. Sometimes you may have to go looking for the calf depending on your set up. Occasionally the cows don’t show and you end up with surprise calves.

Yak meat has a delicious and delicate beef-like flavor. It is very low in fat as the fat layer is put down on the outside of the carcass and is easily trimmed off. It is deep red in color, high in protein and Omega 3 fatty acids, and low in calories, saturated fats, cholesterol and triglycerides. [JWR Adds: Yak beef has the lowest cholesterol of any beef variety, while yak milk has one of the highest butterfat contents. What a great combination for prepared families that want make butter!]

Their milk has a high fat content and makes exceptional butter, cheese, and even ice cream. The traditional Tibetan methods of preparation and storage without refrigeration takes a bit of getting used to for the Western palate, but worth trying to prepare for the time when refrigeration may not be easy to come by.

Yak fiber is comparable to cashmere or angora. It is the downy undercoat that sheds off during the spring and can be combed out, collected and processed. The courser outer hair or ‘guard hair’ on the legs, mane, and belly can be used to weave tents, ropes, and belts. There is also the hide, and leather which can be tanned in yak butter, horn, and bone which can be made into many very useful and durable products.

Their manure is more valuable than gold, in my opinion. It is great fertilizer, doesn’t have a foul odor at all and can be dried burned as fuel straight into the wood stove, or become methane fuel in a biodigester.

I have less than 10 acres outside of Salem, Oregon and two acres are fenced pasture for the yaks, so far. I have three yaks right now – Tashi and Misha are my heifers, and Mouse is my bull. They’ll be two years old in September when I can start training them to ride. I have them trained in the yoke and have recently started adding more weight. Yaks will need between 3 and 5 sizes of yokes during their lifetime.

I’ve been using Tashi and Mouse to pull down fallen trees out of my “forest” I don’t have the resources yet to get a wagon and some working ox-drawn farming implements but I’m working toward that. The yaks are coming along well with packing too especially now that I have wooden pack saddles and tack and saddle bags made from yak guard hair and yak leather tanned in yak butter. When my yaks were calves, finding dog backpacks and later llama packs was difficult for me. For some reason packs were scarce at the time. Now the packs are everywhere.

It is best to start training almost from day one. Get them used to being touched all over, brushed, and bathed. Make these positive experiences. I got my three when they were 3 and 5 months old which is just fine if you establish a good bond and train consistently. You and your team/herd will progress much faster. I had some problems surrounding work and a 2 hour commute and wasn’t as consistent with my training as I should have been. Fortunately my yaks’ intelligence and our strong bond made it possible for us to make up for lost time.

Patience, persistence, consistency, discipline, and kindness are the keys to success. While yaks can be very cuddly and sweet, as with any bovine you must make sure they know who’s boss and remind them. You must never mistreat them or make them afraid. However, you must ensure that they never even think to challenge you or get away from you. If they are allowed to do that too often then it will be much harder for you to get them to do what you want them to do. A well placed tap to the knees or head with a stick, is usually all it takes to remind them if they get out of line.

Whether you yoke them or pack with them or not you need to teach them the basic commands – Git up (move forward), Back up, Whoa, Gee (go right), Haw (go left). Combine these verbal commands with consistent hand signals until the yaks will follow either verbal or hand signals. Then you will be able to command your yaks when silence is necessary.

Yaks, once trained, are very dependable on the road. They are a hit at parades. So if you decide to G.O.O.D. when TSHTF the yaks are naturals to carry your equipment and supplies. They can be driven as is traditionally done in Tibet, or they can be led on a halter and rope. They are fine with caravanning too, but they may jostle one another more than other pack animals. So just be aware if that happens and either work with them to minimize that or pack accordingly. My personal preference is to keep their spirited nature intact. There is a bit more risk, but you end up with a more alert and intelligent animal

There are some valuable resources available resources out there such as www.IYAK.org , www.tillersinternational.org, www.ridingsteers.com , www.ruralheritage.com , www.springbrookranch.com, www.prairieoxdrovers.com/  and www.berrybrookoxsupply.com. In September, my own site www.oxzenacres.com will be up and running where you can check up on the progress of my little yak herd.



Two Letters Re: Sterling Silver Flatware for Barter?

James:
I want to warn readers about selling sterling and coin silver and other “scrap” [precious] metal silverware and jewelry. Most of the buyers out there are not reputable, and only pay a small fraction of the real “melt” value. You’ll get the best prices by selling directly to the silver foundry-type operations.

To make sure that you get paid properly, first weigh your pieces on an accurate scale.

Wikipedia says: “Sterling silver is an alloy of silver containing 92.5% by weight of silver and 7.5% by weight of other metals, usually copper. The sterling silver standard has a minimum millesimal fineness of 925.”

So… When selling [“Sterling” marked silver] for scrap, you multiply the weight of your pieces by .925. That gives you the actual silver weight.

If you don’t have a Troy ounce scale, then you will have to convert (calculate) regular [avoirdupois] ounces to Troy ounces.

[JWR Adds: A Troy ounce is 480 grains,whereas an avoirdupois ounce is 437.5 grains. (There are 12 Troy ounces to a Troy pound, not 16!) To convert: Multiply the number of avoirdupois ounces by .912 to get the approximate number of troy ounces. And I should also mention that “Coin” silver jewelry –often marked “Dollar”, “D”, or “900” is .900 fine.]

Then figure that a legit scrap buyer will only pay you about 70% of the silver value, based on the days’s spot price. That may not sound like much, but you have to take into consideration their handling costs, fuel and labor costs for melting, and them compensating for their occasionally getting gypped by people that include some fake “Sterling” pieces that are actually just silver plate. So, 70% is actually pretty fair, considering.

The rip off artists that mentioned only pay about 20% to 30% of spot. So, like I say, beware! – Glenn in Atlanta

 

Hi Jim,

Regarding sterling silverware, I’d like to mention that Northwest Territorial Mint will buy sterling silver flatware and other [scrap] silver items.

They are are an honest outfit, as you know. – JM3





Economics and Investing:

From reader G.M.H.: Recession Worse than Prior Estimates, Revisions Show

Sven sent this: Card Companies Ready to Settle Up

Items from The Economatrix:

Middle Class Suicide

The Collapse of Commercial Property: Towers of Debt

Gold Will Hit $1,000 Again

The Future Made Simple
(The Mogambo Guru)

Goodbye Bland Affluence

Job Levels Won’t Rebound in California Until 2013

Unpaid Property Taxes Hit Localities


Disney Earnings Drop 26% on Weaker Theme Park, Media Results

Oil Slips Below $67 as Euro Stocks Falter



Odds ‘n Sods:

Craig K. sent us this: Germans Hoarding Traditional Light Bulbs

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Congressmen “fearful for their safety” as town hall meetings “run wild” (Thanks to F.G. for the link.) Gee, it sounds like the “Angry Villager Rule” from Dungeons and Dragons. Perhaps the sale of tar and feathers should be banned, just in case.

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House Approves Overhaul of Food Safety Regulations Some claim that this would give the US Government total control over food production.

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Five Freedoms You’d Lose in Healthcare Reform



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The president has got to stop promising renewed growth. While this would affect the perceived “standard-of-living” as measured in things like shopping mall sales and vehicle miles driven, it would not necessarily mean diminished “quality-of-life.” It would mean different ways-of-life for a lot of people — for instance, young adults who had expected lifetime employment as corporate executives but who, instead, find themselves ten years from now working at farming. We have an awful lot to get real about.” – James H. Kunstler (author of The Long Emergency)