Off The Grid Cooking, by Chino

I have seen numerous articles dealing with the type and quantity of food that one should have for long term survival, but I have yet to see anyone address survival cooking.

I have been prepping for a few years and I have a pretty good supply of “stuff” including a Svea backpacking stove, a Coleman stove & fuel, camping grill & 1 lb. propane bottles, a butane stove with butane canisters and a wood stove that could double for a cook stove for cooking beans in the winter time.  I thought I was pretty well set to go it alone for an extended period if Schumer came calling.

Recently I decided to cook a pot of pinto beans.  It took all day to cook them to the point where they were edible (not perfect, but edible…  They were perfect the next day after being in the frig over night and then another hour of cooking)  It occurred to me that the fuel that I have stored might not last very long if I have to burn fuel all day just to cook one pot of beans (about 7 cups dry).

Stop and think about your store of food and your store of cooking fuel.  Do you have enough fuel to cook all of the food you have stored?  Some items like canned food just require heating up where others like beans, rice, lentils and pasta require time to cook properly.  And what about tea, coffee and hot chocolate?

We have become so accustomed to popping something into the microwave for a couple of minutes or in a pan on the stove or in the coffee maker, that we don’t give any thought to the amount of energy required to prepare our food.

If the infrastructure goes down for a couple of years or more and you are not fortunate enough to have a propane stove and a full tank of propane when it happens, you may find that you are out of cooking fuel after a few weeks.

With that in mind, I began researching other means of emergency cooking.  This is what I’ve found:

ALCOHOL STOVES

There are a number of commercial alcohol stoves on the market, but I found a homemade version that is easy to make and works just like the commercial models.  The concept of a pressurized alcohol stove is fairly simple.  One can be made in a few minutes from two soda or beer cans.  It is a matter of cutting the bottom out of two aluminum cans of the same type, pressing them together to form a container, punching or drilling small holes around the top edge of one can to form the jets and drilling a larger hole in the center of the top can for a fuel hole.

The alcohol used in these stoves is available at Lowe’s or Home Depot.  The brand is KLEAN STRIP SLX Denatured Alcohol and it is designed for use in stoves/ You can also use HEET Gas-Line Antifreeze which comes in a yellow plastic bottle containing 12 oz.  Do not use the HEET in the red bottle.  HEET is more expensive per ounce than SLX but the small bottle is handier to use than a gallon can.  HEET can be found at hardware stores, auto parts stores and Wal-Mart (lowest price).

The design that I like the best is  called a “Penny Stove” because a penny is used to cover the filler hole after the alcohol is poured into the stove.  Information on the construction and use of these stoves can be found on the internet.  Search for “Penny Alcohol Backpacking Stove” of see this site. I have made several versions of these stoves and they all work well.  They will boil 2 cups of water in about 10 minutes on one ounce of alcohol.  A gallon of alcohol at Lowe’s  is about $16.  These stoves do require a pot stand to hold the pot above the stove and a fire/heat proof base to set them on.  Like most backpacking stoves, these require a few seconds of pre-heating before they pressurize.  

One solution I found for both a pot stand and fire proof base is to use a large food can such as a 29 oz. can of Yams, use tin snips or Dremel tool to cut the can off about an inch taller than the height of the stove and drill or punch holes around the base to allow air to feed the stove and a similar row of holes just below the top of the can to allow the heat to flow up around the pot.  The holes should be about 1/2″ in diameter to allow the air to flow easily.   Place the stove in the center of the base/pot holder and pour alcohol into the filler hole.  Do not fill the stove completely or it will not pressurize until some of the fuel burns off.  Pour a little alcohol on the base around the stove and put the penny over the filler hole.  When the alcohol is lit it will heat the stove causing it to pressurize.  The jets will then begin to burn.  The alcohol burns with a blue flame like a gas range and is difficult to see in bright light.  When the jets light, put the pot on the pot stand.  Be sure to use a copper penny (pre-1982) to cover the filler hole.  A zinc penny will deteriorate over time and the fumes given off from it being heated could be a health hazard to breathe. 

Alcohol stoves are so cheap and easy to make that you can have several on hand for back-ups or to trade or give away.  Also, it is likely that you may need several stoves going at one time to prepare a meal and have it all ready at the same time.

If you prefer to buy an alcohol stove rather than make one, you might want to check out the Whiteboxstoves.com web site.  They have what appears to be a good design for $20. plus S&H.  A review of this stove can be seen on YouTube.

WOOD GAS STOVES

Since the alcohol stoves still require commercially make fuel and you still have to guess how much alcohol you are going to need, I began researching wood stoves. 

I found that there are some really neat designs for wood stoves.  There are various designs of what are referred to as wood gas stoves or wood gasification stoves.  The stove consists of an inner shell (can) and an outer shell (can).  The inner shell, which contains the fire, has holes in the bottom and around the side of the bottom to allow air flow to the bottom of the wood and another row of holes about 1/2″ below the top of the can which are the gas jet holes.  The outer shell has large holes around the bottom to allow air flow to the inner shell.  There is an air space between the inner and the outer shell.  When the fire begins to burn, it heats up the wood which releases gas.  The gas is partially burned by the flame on the wood.  It also heats up the air between the two shells.  As the hot air flows up and through the gas jets holes, it facilitates a re-burning of the wood gas (smoke) which maximizes the efficiency and also reduces the smoke for a nearly smoke-free fire.

One commercially made wood gas stove that is sold for backpacking/camping is called the “Bush Buddy.”  Videos of it in operation can be seen on Youtube. Since the Bush Buddy is rather pricey, I pursued the possibility of making one.  I soon found that numerous other people had already done that and some of the designs were quite good.  The designs that I like the best can be seen on Youtube.  Here he describes four models that he has made and the tools and techniques that he uses.  The one design that I like best is the last (and largest) one that he describes.  To see one of his stoves in action see this video.

I made my stove in the same configuration as his but I used a large juice can (about 49-50 oz.) for the outer can, a 26 oz. pasta sauce can for the inner can and a 28 oz. crushed tomato or 29 oz. yam can (cut down to about 2 3/4″ tall) for the pot stand.  (Both ends of the pot stand should be removed)  He recommends using a step-bit to drill the holes and I concur completely.  It is much easier and cleaner to drill holes with a step-bit than a regular bit.  [I bought a set of three from Amazon for about $15.]  Be sure to use a side-cutting can opener since you will re-use the lid of the large can to hold the inner can.

After I finished all of the drilling, cutting and sanding the sharp edges, I used a propane torch to burn the lacquer off the cans before testing the stove.  Otherwise, it will gradually burn off while you are cooking.  The fumes from the lacquer are not pleasant and could be harmful.

The beauty of these stoves is the design.  Because of the air flow up through the bottom, they are very easy to start.  You fill the stove with small chunks of wood up to just below the jet holes at the top of the inner can and start the fire on the top of the pile using small twigs or some type of fire starter.

Because of the design of the wood gas stove, you can cook a meal on nothing more than a handful of twigs, small branches or even chips and chunks typically found around a wood pile.  The stove is so efficient that it can be loaded with sticks of wood about 3 1/2″ long and 1/2″ in diameter standing up lengthwise in the stove and it will burn them completely.

If you cut an opening in the side of the pot stand can about 1 1/8″x 2 1/8″ this will enable you to continue to feed the fire periodically to keep it burning as long as you need it.

Cooking over an open fire is a tremendous waste of fuel.  These stoves will do the job with a fraction of the wood and with much less smoke too.  These stoves were designed primarily for backpacking since they are light weight and compact.  The smaller versions work well for that since backpackers primarily use a stove to heat water for tea, coffee or Ramen.  But for serious cooking, the larger stoves are a better option.

ROCKET STOVES

Rocket stoves were designed for use in developing countries where they have no electricity or gas to cook with.  They burn wood and they were designed to be as energy efficient as possible since many places around the world are rapidly using up their supply of wood.  These stoves are generally larger than the wood gas stoves and therefore they may produce more heat.  

The design is basically a flu or stove pipe with a 90 degree elbow and a short section of pipe that serves as the fire chamber.  The “L” shaped pipe is enclosed in another container that is considerably larger than the pipe.  Insulation is placed between the pipe and the outer container to hold the heat of the fire in the pipe and therefore increase the combustion and facilitate a cleaner, more efficient burn.  Many rocket stoves are built in-place using fire bricks and are permanent cooking fixtures.  Others can be made using 5 gallon buckets or barrels  and are more portable.  Because of the size and design of the rocket stove, they are probably more suitable for cooking for a greater number of people than the wood gas stoves are since they will accommodate a larger pot or even a griddle.

The rocket stoves utilize longer sticks and small diameter branches that are fed into the short pipe.  A piece of metal separates the pipe into an upper chamber and a lower chamber.  The wood is fed into the upper chamber and the lower chamber allows the air to flow under the wood.  Only the ends of the sticks burn so the sticks have to be fed into the chamber as they burn.  An advantage to these stoves is that they are easy to keep burning until the cooking is done by simply continuing to feed sticks into them.  When you are finished cooking, pull the sticks out and the fire will immediately begin to go out, although it will continue to give off heat for simmering.  Once the stove gets hot, it burns efficiently and with very little smoke.  As with the wood gas stove, the rocket stove uses very little fuel.  Another advantage of the portable rocket stove is that they can be rotated so that any breeze or air movement will blow into the feed pipe giving the rocket a super charge.

The advantage of wood stoves is that wood is available almost everywhere.  You may not have access to actual firewood, but almost everybody has access to dry tree limbs or other sources of scrap wood with which to fuel a wood cook stove.  And if you do have firewood for heating your house, you can use the debris for cooking and save the larger wood for heating.

A commercial rocket stove is available a for $135.

Numerous homemade designs of rocket stoves can be found on Youtube.  One word of caution: If you make you own rocket stove, be cautions about using a galvanized stove pipe since the galvanization is zinc and it could contaminate you food and the fumes could be harmful to breathe.

RETAINED HEAT COOKING

As usual, if we want to find out how to do things efficiently we have to learn from our elders.  In the “old days” people had “hay boxes” or cooking boxes sitting in their kitchen.  These boxes contained hay or blankest or other material to assist in cooking things such as my pot of beans.  This method is also used in Africa where they have limited fuel for cooking.

The concept of retained heat cooking is that you bring a pot of food to a boil and keep it boiling for about 15-20 minutes until the pot and the contents are at a boiling temperature.  The pot and contents are then placed in a container and covered with anything that will insulate the pot from the surrounding air.  If properly insulated, the pot and contents will retain enough heat to continue cooking for several hours.  The length of time required depends upon the type of food you are cooking.   Obviously, beans will require the most time to cook.

Any container can be used as long as it’s considerably larger than the pot being used i.e. laundry basket, cardboard box, wooden box, foot locker, large wicker basket etc.  A blanket or sleeping bag is laid over the container and pushed down into the container.  A trivet is placed on the bottom to protect the blanket from the heat of the pot.  Set the pot on the trivet and cover it with the blanket.  Then pack other blankets around and over the pot so that it is well insulated.

I have only tried this method one time so far.  I used four turkey size cooking bags and filled each about half full of vermiculite (a nonflammable material used in gardening).  I folded the end of the bags over twice and stapled the bag shut.  I then taped the fold to the bag for a tight seal so that none of the vermiculite could get out.  I used a laundry hamper and a wool army blanket over the hamper.  I put a trivet in the bottom of the hamper and a mylar space blanket over the trivet.  I put the pot on the space blanket and wrapped the space blanket around the pot.  I then packed the bags of vermiculite around and over the pot and wrapped the army blanket around everything.

I was cooking pinto beans (again) so I let the pot set in the basket for about 4 hours.  When I took them out, the pot was still too hot to handle without pot holders. The beans were still not done, but they had definitely cooked.  Another 2-3 hours might have finished them.  I think it is a viable method of cooking.  Even if you had to leave them in the hamper for 8 hours, bring them back to a boil for 10 minutes and put them back in the hamper for another few hours it’s still better than using a quart of fuel to cook them.

For a visual on retained heat cooking, see the video on Youtube.

A side note:  when I cook beans on the kitchen stove, I invariably have to add water before they get fully cooked.  When I used the retained heat method, I didn’t.

And that brings up another point worth mentioning…

WATER.  

Everybody talks about how much water to have for each person per day.  Stop and think about how much water it takes to cook with, not to mention food preparation and washing dishes and utensils.  When I cooked my beans, I sorted them for rocks and dirt clods and then I used about two gallons of water to wash them.  Then I used about a gallon to soak them overnight (which reduces cooking time).  Then I used another gallon to cook them. In all, four gallons of water for one pot of beans…  Of course, you could soak them in the same water you washed them in and save a little water usage.  But that gives you an idea of how much water we use just in cooking, not to mention food preparation and dish washing.  Something to be aware of…

Since we have no way of knowing how long we might be without electricity, it’s a good idea to have numerous methods for cooking and a good supply of the various types of fuel on hand.  It’s also a good idea to make several stoves now.  They would be much harder to make without electricity for drills and Dremel tools, even if you have the necessary cans.  [Dremel tools are perfect for cutting cans off and for cutting windows in the cans for fuel feed holes.  Be sure to wear eye protection.] You will have more important things to do when TSHTF than to make cook stoves



Letter Re: Question on Shelf Life of Water Stored in Bottles

Good Afternoon,
Having purchased the The “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, you asked for some feedback. I think the most concise way to put it is that I started out with a list of around 95 questions about preparedness. And that list was growing at the rate of about one question a day. After reading the binder and listening to the audio CD, I am left with precisely one question. The “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course is worth every dime as far as I’m concerned. There is one more “preppie” (no pun intended) spending about $10 a week getting ready. I live only about 7,000 ft. west of the nuke labs in Livermore, California. I’d buy the course again in a heartbeat, and have pointed a couple of friends to SurvivalBlog as they are just beginning to think about being ready if their jobs evaporate courtesy of Barack Hussein Obama’s ego and ignorance, (personal editorial opinion intended!). And the Freeze Dry Guy and I will be talking soon.

The one question left is: Once my drinking water goes through the reverse osmosis water machine (a Culligan AC 30) and into containers for storage, how long can I leave that water in storage (in my garage) before I replace it? I’m currently using no bleach or other “stabilizers” in the water. If you’d like to see the Scepter storage containers that I use, see the Brigade Quartermasters web site.

Grace to you and yours from the Lion of Judah, – Ron H.

JWR Replies: Water without chlorine added water stored in bottles can have a very short shelf life–sometimes as little as a few weeks. Because diffuse sunlight can encourage algae growth, translucent containers (such as 2 liter bottles) are inferior to opaque containers. Often, if you fill a large batch of containers, one will have a slight contaminant and the water will go “off” much more quickly than the others. If you store water in Scepter cans or bottles, I recommend that you simply run it back through your reverse osmosis machine just before consuming it. For any of it that will be used for drinking, if the water still tastes flat after processing you can restore it to a more natural taste by aerating it with a wire whisk or an egg beater for a minute.



Letter Re: Dealing with Common Addictions–True Readiness for Disasters

Sir:
One item not often considered for emergency supplies: Caffeine pills. Many non-Mormons are heavy coffee drinkers. What happens when you’re on bug out, and drinking filtered stream water, instead of your morning Cup O’ Joe? Well, the splitting killer caffeine withdrawal headache, that’s what. Open the package, and gulp down a Vivarin, or No-Doz, and you are back to your cheerful self. With My Regards, – C.Y.

JWR Replies: It is a far better thing to break away from coffee, soda pop, cigarette, alcohol, candy, junk food, and drug addictions now, in normal times. Get rid of them one at a time. Proceed with plenty of prayer, hydration, and exercise. Trying to go “Cold Turkey”–especially for multiple addictions–during a disaster could be, well, disastrous!

Yes, perhaps you could store some No-Doz, but keep that on hand to wean your less-provident friends and neighbors, not yourself. You need to be free of addictions before the Schumer hits the fan! If you are fit and sober, you will be healthier and far better able to handle the rigors of life without electricity and running water. Furthermore, eliminating the expense of addictive behaviors will also free up a lot of money that can then be spent for your preparations. So kicking your habits will turn out be a huge “win-win” for your overall preparedness.



Letter Re: Bargain Prices at Wiggy’s

Sir,
I hope this e-mail finds you and yours well. I just wanted you to be aware that Wiggy’s here in Grand Junction, Colorado is offering almost 50% off sleeping bags and clothing if picked up in store. I just bought the Lamilite jacket and wow, it is too warm so far. Everyone knows the quality and comfort a Wiggy’s bag can provide in all conditions. I would hope everyone locally takes advantage of this offer. When I was there yesterday they said it would go to the end of the year or until the economy got better….. Please pass this on to help Wiggy’s as well as those of us that find a bargain everywhere we can.   Sincerely, – Rob H. in Grand Junction, Colorado

JWR Adds: The company is also presently offering 30% off all sleeping bags and free shipping, for mail order customers. I own several of their FTRSS bags and Lamilite ground pads, and I highly recommend them!



Economics and Investing:

Brett G. sent this: Fed Warns of 4.25 Million More Foreclosures Through 2012

From Russia Expert, a Gloomy Outlook. (Thanks to Siggy for the link.)

P.D. flagged: Tent Cities, Homelessness and Soul-Crushing Despair: The Legacy of Decades of Government Debt and Mismanagement of the Economy

Inyokern highlighted this one: Ireland fears civil unrest as bank crisis deepens

Items from The Economatrix:

Home Prices Will Keep Falling  

Job Seekers Find Bias Against Unemployed  

Jobless Benefits Cost So Far:  $319 Billion

US Banks Insolvent If They Face Loan Losses  

What’s Really Behind QE2?  

ECB Tightens Screws on Ireland, Portugal and Spain  



Inflation Watch:

Brace yourself for more high inflation, Mervyn King tells George Osborne.

$4.00 Gasoline By The End Of 2010?  

Our friend Fred C. sent this: “Riceland brand rice in 50 pound bags at my local Sam’s Club in Arkansas was $13.95 in July. Then it jumped to $14.60 in late September. Last night I noticed that the pallet with Riceland rice bags on it had 25 pound bags instead of 50 pound bags, and they were priced at $8.95 each. (The equivalent of $17.90 per 50 pounds.)

Gap, Wal-Mart Clothing Costs Rise on `Terrifying’ Cotton Prices

China to subsidize food after price spike

India’s Food price index jumps 10.30%



Odds ‘n Sods:

I’m scheduled for a two hour interview on the EMPact Radio podcast on Wednesday. That should be interesting.

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Something tells me that there will be some bargain prices soon: Solar Panel Makers Face Supply-Glut `Armageddon’: Chart of Day. Thanks to reader Chris S. for the link.

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Seen over at Paratus Familia: A novel concealment holster for women.

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J. in the Great White North recommended this five minute video: You Can Eat Dandelion

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I just finished reading Jerry and Sharon Ahern’s new sci-fi novel, Written in Time. I was disappointed that there was some crude language, but overall it was a good read. It certainly stood out for originality amongst time travel novels.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“It could unfold very, very quickly. Because deflation is a swing of poverty feedback, it can take awhile to build up. If you try to explain to people what’s coming, because it doesn’t happen instantly, they tend to go back to sleep. The thing they need to understand, however, is that when it does hit a tipping point, a kind of critical mass, then it can unfold exceptionally quickly. Then it’s very much like having the rug pulled out from under your feet. So I tell people all the time, prepare now because it’s better to be two years too early than five minutes too late. You can’t play with this sort of thing. In September, 2008, we came within a few hours of the banking system seizing up, and that could easily happen again. People wouldn’t get a lot of notice. For anyone who’s not in the meeting room-it will be too late by the time they find out. My worry is that if there are an enormous number of people who just had the rug pulled out from under their feet, they’re going to run around like headless chickens, and the human over-reaction to events will be really responsible for a large percentage of the impact.” – Nicole Foss, Senior Editor of The Automatic Earth blog site



Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 31 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 31 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



The Post-SHTF Store, by J.P.C.

So much has been written on preparing solely for survival of TEOTWAWKI. What about after? What about five years after? Granted, if something minor happens and we could overcome it within a month or so, I truly see precious metals quite viable. However, should the whole world fall to its knees and we would be looking at years before any sort of progress could be made, I think material goods would be much more important.

This list is not meant to be a final checklist, but rather a starting point that you could adjust, add, or take away from. These are some items that you could stock, to start your own General Merchandise store:

Glasses: With so many people running around with contact lenses, lots of eyesight would be lost after the first few months of TEOTWAWKI. Try talking to friends and family that have old pairs of glasses lying around and ask if you may have them. If possible, keep the frames as similar as possible. This would allow you to change out one lens for another if need be. Go to your local pharmacy and purchase a few types of reading glasses as well.

Hearing Aids with Batteries: These are a bit more pricey, but if you can come across some save them for someone that may be willing to pay for them with a side of beef in post-SHTF situation.

Boots and Shoes: It seems all we hear about is the best type of clothes for when the SHTF, but what about footwear? People will be walking all day, everyday thus making shoes wear out faster. I’d recommend going to garage sales and second hand stores to stock up on various sizes and types of footwear for adults and children. Twelve months after TEOTWAWKI and people are going to want to ditch their sandals and oversized sneakers for a more durable and appropriate shoe.

Can Openers: You would be astonished as to the number of people I know that have stocked up on canned goods but only have an electric can opener. Buy a few dozen good quality hand can openers. These will likely sell fast.

Female Products: Per my wife’s instructions. Women will need time until they can make their own pads. Nuff said!

Herbs: Whether or not you know how to make herbal remedies, someone will. Possibly through a collection of people, enough remedies may become apparent as medicines. You could trade these herbs for some of the medicines that people would make.

Medical Supplies: Medical personnel close to you will probably have a small stock of supplies in their own home. This extra supply is so if they are unable to get to their work site to retrieve more. You could trade these supplies for some medical treatments.

Writing Supplies: Pencils, pens, markers, and paper. Most likely electricity will go out fairly quickly. Being able to write notes, signs, or for pleasure will become more commonplace.

Reloading Equipment: This isn’t necessarily for you to sell, but rather to make sellable products. Bullets will in a sense become a type of currency. It will be used daily for hunting and for protection. Carry sufficient equipment to reload common sizes such as .357, .40, .45, .223, .30-06, .308, 12 gauge, and others . Check out local tire shops. Some will give you the old lead weights for free.

Archery Supplies: This one is not really talked about in the prepper circuit, but is becoming slightly more popular. At some point and time, there will be no more cartridges [because there will be no more primers]. Period. That is until someone starts producing gun powder and cartridges. This doesn’t apply to everyone, but if you live in an area where guns and shooting are frowned upon, this will happen. A large number of hunters are becoming more involved with bow hunting. Carrying some extra arrows, heads, and strings will make you quite popular among these hunters.

Antiques: So when you inherited grandpa’s farm you got to looking around. You found old lanterns, a horse drawn plow, old hand tools, an antique sheller, etc. You understand the importance of these types of tools in a SHTF situation, so you bought new replicas that you know will last. Don’t chuck these antique originals in the junk pile. These can be sold to farmers who have not prepared, for a hefty price.

Fire Starters: Lots of people have matches and lighters in their house. Do you think they have sufficient to last five years? Stock up on strike anywhere matches, butane lighters, and magnesium fire starters. Once people realize there gas stove doesn’t light up without their electric starter, they’ll be calling you to trade.

Lubricants: Whether we experience an EMP or not, the lights will go out at some time. People will have generators and vehicles that are still going to run for awhile. I constantly read feuds between preppers over how many “trillions” of gallons of fuel they should have along with a stabilizer. What about oil for your motor? If you have enough fuel to last for three generations, how long will that motor last with nasty oil? Buy some common types of oils for two-strokes, gas vehicles, diesel vehicles, and tractors. Don’t forget to buy grease and penetrating lubricants as well.

Dental Care: There have been a few articles on the care of your teeth and gums, which means that people understand the importance of good dental hygiene. Stock up on toothbrushes and dental floss. People that understand the importance of these products will trade with high values.

Soap: Many people will start making their own soap, but many people will not know how. At fifty cents a bar, stock up on a pallet of this stuff. Even for certain people that are in love with their hair will use good old bar soap for shampoo. It sure beats using soap made from animal lard, or worse yet, no soap at all.

Kids Stuff: Children will be living in a far different place a year after TEOTWAWKI. No more Xbox, DVDs, iPods, and the list goes on. Most kids will be working to help the family survive by helping in the fields, homes, or learning a trade. However, we don’t want to completely throw away our children’s’ future. Stock up on some old fashion board games. These will not be solely for children, but for the whole family. When things calm down some, we will need to take some time to decompress everything that has happened. Stock up on story books along with textbooks. These children will someday be rebuilding the world we destroyed. Don’t let them lose their intelligence.

Adult Stuff: Kids aren’t going to be the only ones that will need to decompress. Our days will be long and difficult and at some point in we will have some down time to relax. As stated above, board and card games will help. Pick up some novels to sell that people could cozy up with next to a fire. Keep some bottles of perfume for women and some old car magazines for guys.

Tools: Most people have a socket wrench set and a hammer. If you live in the country, you probably have a mini hardware store in your shop. On the other hand, some people have a screwdriver and not much else. Keep a few extra tools around not only for yourself, but to trade as well. Sockets break, screwdriver tips wear down, and handles break.

Seeds: The starter prepper knows that they need “X amount” of food stored away. What about after it’s all gone? Seeds will become very important once people realize that TEOTWAWKI is here to stay and their supply of canned goods will not suffice until the lights come back on.

Canning Supplies: When harvest time comes around, people (hopefully) will have a bountiful crop of food. They will need a way to store this to get them through winter and into the next year.

Coffee and filters: The filters can be used for people that do not have percolators. They set their coffee pot up as normal and slowly pour hot water over the grounds. The filters can also be used to filter water for big chunks of stuff that we shouldn’t be drinking. As far as the coffee…we’re Americans. Coffee will be like gold!

Bibles: I stress that for this one, you use it not for trade, but as a gift. Help spread the word of God in a crucial time.

Baby Formula: Some children may not drink breast milk due to either a lack of lactation or an allergy to something in the milk. I do not think I would be able to use this as a trade or sellable item. Best leave this for a charity item.

Hand Pumps for Wells: I know of people that live in the country that are preparing to have the SHTF. They are storing food, fuel, water, and bullets. A number of these same people have yet to realize that when the lights go out, so does their well. Having a few of these around could be worth a huge amount in the barter world.

Solar Panels: For this, I would recommend putting them away in a faraday cage. Should an EMP blast occur, these could be trade to someone that is in great need of electricity such as a doctor, dentist, fire department, or the local Ham Radio operator to keep us up on the news. Don’t forget to also keep on hand batteries, charge controllers, cabling, connectors, and all the other goodies needed [to make small PV systems.]

Last, and certainly not least…. Books and Manuals:
Not everyone’s situation will be the same. You may live in an area without any medical personnel around. I may live in a climate that never gets below eighty degrees. Pick up books that people could use and the entire community could benefit from over time. Pick up a copy of Where There Is No Doctor or Seed Sowing and Saving. Find technical manuals and do-it-yourself (DIY) books. Purchase five copies of each one. Should you live in an area that is so desolate that your community is less than one hundred families; skills may not be readily present and must be learned. Knowledge is power.

The preceding list is just a guide. What I really hope to get out of this is for people’s minds to shift from preparing and trying to survive to looking past the final hour and realize that if you do survive, we will have to restart everything. If you are thirty years old, have all of you food, water, crops, and fuel squared away, start thinking about the next thirty to forty years you may live after the SHTF. We’ve focused long enough on getting ready for the big day, but what about the years and years after? As in the novel “Patriots” we will have bartering going on. We may even have some kind of barter stand that turns into a store. No matter how much you prepare and store, there will always be at least one thing that you forgot. That is why it will be important to have extra stuff, so that you may trade for that item that you forgot. Be Blessed in the difficult road ahead!



The Four Levels of Disaster Preparedness Competence, by Todd D.

Using the theory of competence awareness that you can apply to any skill, or knowledge based discipline i.e. cooking, auto repair, etc. I am taking a writers license to make a revision to Dr. Abraham Maslow’s conscious competence theory, and apply the theory to Disaster Preparedness.

Unconsciously Incompetent: The UI represents approximately 90% of the population of the nation. Using Hurricane Katrina as an example, hundreds of thousands of people felt it was the role of the government to make sure that individual citizens would have food, water, clothing and shelter. These same people believe under no circumstance, the individual (UI) was responsible for ones lack of preparation. In fact, some people even blamed the President of the United States for the UI’s unwillingness to become ready for a disaster.

In a study commissioned by the San Diego Department of Emergency Services in 2006 a year prior to the largest fire storm in California’s history, showed that out of those that did not have a plan 50% stated that they have just not taken the time. The UI will most likely react to an event instead of planning. Then the UI will need assistance from government and NGOs such as the American Red Cross. The UI places tremendous strain on the response system. People that otherwise are not a “victim”, will still expect heroic measures to be taken by the community, to “save” and help them, and recover from the event. The UI does not know where to start or get services.  The UI will demand that those that are prepared for the event help them, the classic “crab in the bucket” reaction pulling down individuals who were ready for a disaster.

The “crab in a bucket” syndrome is:  When a single crab is put into a lidless bucket, they surely can and will escape, however, when more than one share a bucket, none can get out. If one crab elevates them self above all, the others will grab this crab and drag ’em back down to share the mutual fate of the rest of the group. Crab bucket syndrome is often used to describe social situations where one person is trying to better them self and others in the community attempt to pull them back down

Consciously Incompetent: If the UI is the “crab in the bucket” the CI is the provable “grasshopper” from the fable of the “Grasshopper and the Ant.”

The fable concerns a grasshopper that has spent the warm months singing away while the ant (or ants in some editions) worked to store up food for winter. When winter arrives, the grasshopper finds itself dying of hunger, and upon asking the ant for food is only rebuked for its idleness.

The CI knows that they need to get ready. The CI may even have some gear and supplies. The supplies that the CI does have are not located in any order or state of readiness. They still believe that if the “big one” hits that the government or someone will come for them, or that things will be back to normal soon. They are the people that say to the Consciously Competent “I am coming to your house if anything happens.” The CI also thinks that they have time to get ready later. This is supported by the San Diego study. Around 20% of those that were not ready stated the “nothing serious is going to happen.” The CI will have excuses for not being ready; they “live in an apartment,”  “it is too expensive,”  “they are going to a family member’s home if it gets bad here” and so on.

Consciously Competent: Of the 10% of the population that are ready most fall into this level. The CC has the 72 hour bag that FEMA recommends; they have some extra water and food. Their items and tools are located in one spot in the home and ready to go. The CC will go through their supplies once in a while making sure that tools are in working order and the food fresh. Their papers are in order for the most part. They have a family plan and everyone in the family knows how to respond incase of an event. For the CC this is a laborious undertaking but completed with care. The CC is always looking for items to make their family and themselves better prepared at the super market, online, hardware stores and alike. Being ready is almost a hobby to the CC.

Unconsciously Competent: The UC falls into a special category, they are sometimes called a survivalist.  The UC has programmed their mind and body to being ready. However the UC is not always a militia, gun toting anti-government far on the right person, some UC’s fall far on the left of the political spectrum.

Subsistence farmers for example are UC’s. They know how to grow and harvest their own food. Making butter, jelly and canning food is not a conscious effort like it is for the CC, it is a part of their daily lives. The idea of having food to last the winter is not foreign to them. The UC knows how to work the land, fish, and hunt, repair anything for the most part and need little from anyone else. The UC life style is the way people lived until the 1950s. Today the UC maybe looked down upon by some and even demonized by others however when it comes to being Disaster Resilient the UC is king. UI and the CI may try to take things from the UC and the CC; however unwanted guest may be greeted with a barrel of a gun when approaching the UC’s home.

I have taken the opportunity to share with you the different attitudes toward Disaster Preparedness today in this article. I hope your eyes are open toward being ready and will take it seriously. Don’t be a crab or a grasshopper, be the Ant!



Economics and Investing:

Roubini: Debt Nightmare Unfolding in Europe

The blame game is on: Bernanke Takes Aim at China

Governor Warns Cities May Go Bankrupt. (Thanks to B.B. for the link.)

The American Way of Life, As Things Fell Apart, Nobody Paid Much Attention.

Items from The Economatrix:

How Gold Performs During Periods of Deflation, Disinflation, Runaway Stagflation and Hyperinflation  

Debt Collectors Stalking, Publicly Humiliating People Through Facebook  

US In Terribly Dangerous Territory, Bond Market May Be Headed Toward Implosion  

Gold Investing:  A Bet Against The Idiocy of Money Creation (The Mogambo Guru)  

US Home Starts Drop More Than Forecast 



Odds ‘n Sods:

I was doing some web wandering and found this: British national builds a ‘tsunami-resistant house,’ powered by solar energy

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Reading this synopsis, I would surmise that the script writer for the upcoming “modest budget” guerilla film Remnants must read SurvivalBlog. Watch the latest trailer. Oh, and their clip of “Merle’s Basement” may strike a chord. (Thanks to C.H. for the link.)

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Scott F. recommended this web page for some details on suturing: Operational Medicine 2001 Field Medical Service School Student Handbook.

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SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson sent this: Flashlight plunges Swedish village into darkness.





Notes from JWR:

I was tickled to see that Glenn Beck interviewed Lisa Bedford “The Survival Mom” on his television show. (Nov. 18, 2010.) Hopefully this will encourage a broader cross-section of America build a food storage program.

Today we present another entry for Round 31 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 31 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.