Avalanche Lily’s Bedside Book Pile

Here are the current top-most items on my perpetual bedside pile:

  • I just finished reading One Second After by William R. Forstchen, with a foreword by Newt Gingrich. This is a novel based on the the after-effects of a high altitude EMP blast that wipes out North America’s power grids one spring afternoon. It focuses on the aftermath in a small town in western, North Carolina. It was written with the literal intent to inform and raise the awareness of the American public to the very real danger our country could face from an EMP attack. The storyline was intensely gripping, keeping me up late reading two nights in a row. As I write this, I am still staggered by what I’ve read. Without giving away the story line, I have a number of immediate responses to this novel: get food, lots of food, for yourselves, friends and neighbors, get medical supplies everything and anything, wean yourself off of meds if possible; get ammo, lots of ammo for hunting, barter, and self-defense. Learn how to live without electricity, get non-electric tools and appliances and learn how to use them. I was struck by the lack of preparedness of the local, state and federal governing bodies for an EMP attack in the story (and in real-life), the incredible responsibility the town leaders had to govern the town, the decisions they had to make: declaring martial law, implementing and carrying out lethal punishment for those pillaging and stealing, food rationing, medicine rationing, and “triaging” those who could get more food according to the jobs they performed in the community and who would get medical treatment or not. It also addresses the fine line between caring for others and lapsing into totalitarianism. The book also emphasized the need to maintain 19th Century skills, knowledge, and tools. I consider this book a must read for anyone that is preparedness minded. It also a good book to hand to family and friends, to motivate them to get prepared.

  • We watched I Have Never Forgotten You, a documentary about famed Nazi hunter Simon Wiesenthal. This fascinating biography is available on DVD, and also as a “Watch it Now” streaming video from Netflix.
  • We followed up by watching The Odessa File . (Which had been mentioned in the Wiesenthal documentary.) It is a late-1960s movie, set in 1963. It stars Jon Voight, who convincingly plays the protagonist, a West German journalist who tracks down the former commandant of a Nazi work camp. This former Schutzstaffel officer is still hiding in West Germany under an assumed name, 18 years after the end of WWII. This movie is available as a “Watch it Now” streaming video from Netflix. It has some violence, so it is not one for the kids.
  • Jim noticed that the movie The Young Victoria had lots of good reviews, so we watched it on Saturday night. It had some very good acting, amazing costumes, and lavish sets. It was a remarkably good film. It is rated PG, so it would be suitable for older teenagers. Jim enjoyed it, so I wouldn’t categorize it as a chick flick. This got me interested in the history depicted in the film, so I spent a couple of hours reading about the British royal family, and the genealogical details starting with Victoria’s father and uncle, and down to Queen Elizabeth II.

Next, I plan to read Lucifer’s Hammer by Larry Niven and Jerry Pournelle, and Survivors by Terry Nation. I’ll post my comments on those novels in the next couple of weeks.



Letter Re: Do It Yourself Kydex Sheaths and Holsters

Mr. Rawles,  
As a concealed carry permit holder I have a thing for gun holsters, being a big guy, I spend a lot of time making sure that my holsters are comfortable and work well with the clothing I wear.  Something I have noticed with holsters and “gun guys” is that we all end up with a box of old holsters we never use.  Looking through my collection I see that the majority of holsters I use on a daily basis are either Kydex or combinations of both leather and Kydex.  That is no surprise when you look at the benefits of Kydex.  Its cheap, rugged, non-marring of your gun’s finish, moldable for good retention, smooth for a consistent draw, and does not react to normal temperatures or gun solvents or oils.  

Being a do it yourself (DIY) enthusiast, it did not take me long to want to try my hand at molding Kydex.  For those of you that do not know, Kydex is the trade name for a propriety thermoplastic sheet.  It’s rigid and strong, but when heated to about 330-380° it becomes pliable. (The sheet will burn at a temperature greater than 400°F).  Kydex does not have a memory, so that once it has cooled; it retains the shape it was molded to fit.  Kydex is not the only plastic compound that has this property, but what makes Kydex so valuable to do-it-yourselfers is that unlike other heat formable plastics like PVC, Kydex will not off gas toxic fumes at normal forming temperatures.  

Most people use either an oven (full size or toaster depending on the size of Kydex your working with), or a heat gun.  It really depends on the thickness of the Kydex your working with, and how big of a piece your molding as to which is a better heat source.  Normally I find the oven works best to begin the project, and I use a heat gun to spot heat for adjustments.   Besides a heat source, gloves, and trimming tools, one of the most basic tools to mold Kydex is a press.  A Kydex press normally costs from $80 to $180 depending on size, but it is a simple tool that I decided to make one myself.  

At its simplest a Kydex press is a rigid board with a thick piece of foam glued to it as a base, with top made the same way.  The heated Kydex is wrapped around whatever it will sheathe, and then sandwiched between the two pieces and then clamped or weighted heavily until the plastic cools.  

I went a little more complicated, as I put a set of hinges to connect the top and bottom pieces.  I connected them this way because I plan on making knife sheaths for the time being until I get enough skill to try more complicated gun holster designs and by being connected, it gives me more leverage for clamping.  If I was making a press for larger items like gun holsters, I would not add a hinge, or I would make the hinge adjustable.  

Being cheap, I did not want to waste Kydex practicing, so I searched for alternatives to Kydex that I could up cycle.  I needed to find thermoplastic that could be heated without off gassing cyanide or other toxic compounds.  It also needed to become pliable upon heating without turning liquid (this left out soda bottles).  I also wanted something that I could get from trash.  I doubt I would be able to get Kydex sheet in a grid down situation, and its not very high on my stockpile list.  

ABS sheet plastic is usable, but I found that the plastic from milk jugs and detergent bottles also work.  Milk jugs are thin, so heating them in the oven isn’t always practical, and they are not UV stabilized so they become brittle in the sun so they are not practical for holsters.  I did find that milk jugs do make great practice pieces, and I made sheaths for all my kitchen knives using milk jugs to practice. 

Thicker laundry soap bottles work great for knives.  They form easier than milk jugs, and you can “weld” the edges together with heat so you do not have to use rivets as you do with actual Kydex sheet.  

Whatever plastic you use, once it has cooled, its simple to open the press and trim the extra plastic away.  I use aviator snips for most of my work, but a dremel tool, band saw, bench grinder all would work as well.  

Some very good concealment holsters are made using both leather and kydex to utilize the advantages of both.  If take a piece of plywood and cut out the center in the shape of your handgun so that only half or a little more is molded into the kydex sheet, you can rivet the kydex to a large piece of leather and attach whatever mounting brackets you desire to the leather making a very comfortable and secure inside the belt concealment holster that molds to your body, while still giving you a slick kydex draw.   I must practice more to enhance my skill, but considering all the pros and cons of the process it is relative easy to do, and may provide for cottage industry after a grid collapse since many more people have guns and knives than have proper sheaths for them. – David N.

JWR Adds: Every family should own a basic leather-working kit, a riveting mandrel, a large assortment of rivets, and a large spool of sturdy waxed saddle stitching thread. That way, even after Kydex becomes unavailable, you can continue to make holsters and sheaths, the old-fashioned way.



Letter Re: U.S. Nickel Five Cent Piece Value Increasing

Hi Jim,

Just a friendly reminder that the melt value of U.S. nickel [five cent piece]s are inching up in price again. Their metallic content made them worth 6.5 cents, the last time I checked. The impostor to the presidency recently signed the “Coin Adulteration, Debasement, and Value Theft Act of 2010” also known as “The Coin Modernization, Oversight, and Continuity Act of 2010“. This may be driving up the price of the currently circulating real nickels. Regards, – Randy F.

JWR Replies: SurvivalBlog readers should consider the newly-enacted legislation their “last call” to acquire nickels by the roll or by the banker’s box of rolls, at face value. Once a new debased (presumably stainless steel) “nickel” is issued, you will have to laboriously sort coins. Yes, I’m sure magnetic discrimination sorting machines will quickly become available, but for now, there is no labor required whatsoever. So stock up. Once the value of a genuine nickel hits two times its face value, Gresham’s Law dictates that they will quickly be driven out of circulation. The same thing happened when American 90% silver coins were replaced by silver-flashed copper tokens, in 1965.

I can’t provide you plans to build a time machine to take you back to 1964–to stock up on silver coins at face value–but I can clue you in about nickels. History is about to repeat itself. Take my advice, and stock up. In a few years, you will be very glad that you did.

I predict that ten years from now, or perhaps even sooner, pre-2011 nickels will be traded in $100 face value bags.

At present, it is illegal to melt or export U.S. pennies or nickels, but that is likely to change, once inflation drives them out of circulation.

As I’ve previously noted in SurvivalBlog, inflation of the US dollar has been chronic, cumulative, and insidious. So much so that turns of phrase from old movies like “penny candy” and “its your nickel” (to describe the cost of a call on a pay phone) now seem quaint and outdated. When inflation goes on long enough, the number of digits required to express a price grows too large. (As has been seen with the Italian lira, the Zimbabwean dollar, and countless other currencies. One whitewash solution to chronic inflation that several other nations have chosen is dropping one, two, or even three zeros from their currency, in an overnight revaluation, with a mandatory paper currency exchange. The history of the past century has shown that when doing so, most governments re-issue only new paper currency, but leave the old coinage in circulation, at the same face value. This is because the sheer logistics of a coinage swap would be daunting. Typically, this leaves the holders of coinage as the unexpected beneficiaries of a 10X, 100X or even 1,000X gain of the purchasing power of their coins. Governments just assume that most citizens just have a couple of pocketfuls of coins at any given time. So if a currency swap were to happen while you are sitting on a big pile of nickels, then you would make a handsome profit. To “cash in”, you could merely spend your saved nickels in the new currency regime. Imagine a nickel buying a gallon of gas once again.





Letter Re: Low Power D.C. Lighting

James Wesley;
Vlad wrote at the end of his piece, “Wish I had a better closing line but it is getting late and I need to go dig up a potentiometer for this lamp.”  Unfortunately, that isn’t going to do a lot of good.  Because an LED is a diode (the D in LED) it is pretty much on or off.  Dimmable LEDs are usually dimmed via Pulse-width Modulation — essentially, turning the LED on and off very quickly.  This doesn’t harm the LED, but it needs a particular circuit to do it.  Reducing the voltage will dim it — but it will happen with such a quick drop off that the “sweet spot” you are looking for will be minisculely tiny and not something you are going to hit without a very sensitive pot and a steady hand.  Several web sites detail how to make a PWM dimmer with the ubiquitous 555 timer chip (The piece at Instructables on this topic  is good).  That would be the best way to dim the LEDs themselves.

Since LEDs draw so little current, I do my “dimming” in stages by either switching in a different number of LEDs for different levels.  PWM isn’t hard with a timer chip, but PWM isn’t hardened at all against EMP (since a timer chip is an IC) and introduces more points of failure.

Also, on rigging for red — remember that the opposite is also true.  When you want to get the most vision for the least number of LEDs, go to the other end of the spectrum and get one of the blue LEDs.  I end up putting something over most of the blue LEDs that manufacturers love putting on electronics now, because a single one of them is more than enough to be a nightlight, and having just a few of them going at once will light a room up brighter than a full moon.  Because they also produce virtually no heat, you can put them virtually anywhere without a fire risk, including boxing them up with only a slit or pinhole to control the light output. – Phelps



Economics and Investing:

Siggy sent this: CBO Recommendation to Munis – Default! JWR’s Comment: Do I see another expansion of the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB) coming?

Marc in the Inland Northwest sent a link to a piece at The Daily Bell: China: That Urban Empty Feeling

Michael Pento – US Headed Down a Path of Destruction       

John Williams: Massive Selling of US Currency Lies Ahead  

Alan B. sent this: Gold to reach $1,800 – probably in Q1 2011 – James Turk

Michael H. mentioned: South Korea plans levy on foreign currency bank debt  

Also from Michael:   China Doubles Korea Bond Holdings as U.S. Debt Sold

Yishai flagged this: Video: The coming collapse in the state budgets

I spotted this over at Fierce Finance: Bill Gross signals end of the great bond bull market



Odds ‘n Sods:

Mike L. recommended the blog articles by Granny Miller.

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F.G. sent this news from the U.K.: Millions facing fuel rationing over Christmas as heating oil runs low

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James C. suggested this humorous video clip: UN Home Security System

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Reader “Out of Sight, Out of Mind” (OSOM) mentioned that the excellent EMP survival sharaeware novel Lights Out by David Crawford (a.k.a. HalfFast), is now available as a hard copy book from Amazon. OSOM’s comments: “This is a great read, and really helps you to internalize the reality of an EMP scenario. I would like to think I am more rational than most – but I must acknowledge that the motivation to make the preparedness effort must be intellectual and emotional.  This novel makes an emotional impact.” JWR’s comment: I hope that the mentions of the availability of this book in preparedness blogs and forums push it into Amazon’s Top 200.

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The Low-Tech Texan wrote to mention that Activist Post has just reviewed my book “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It”.





Notes from JWR:

I noticed that there are several new properties listed at my son’s Survival Realty web site. (A spin-off of SurvivalBlog.) Oh, and another property listed there just recently sold. Take a look!

Today we present another two entries for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



ATVs for Preppers, by S.K.

I am sure that there are many out there that have four wheelers or other all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) part of their prepping. These are a great addition for many reasons. First they are able to get decent fuel mileage (will vary on terrain and driving style), they can carry a lot more weight than you could carry on your back, and they can cover lots of terrain that a full size vehicle would have difficulty if even possible. They are great in carrying a Get out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) bag because they can have racks mounted on the front and back of the machine but also able to pull a small trailer.

If planning to have an ATV part of your prepping, first you must consider what features are essential. Engine size can vary but this is a matter of how much money are you willing to pour into the machine. A 300 will do just fine and from there the engines just get bigger, meaning faster, stronger, [louder, less fuel efficient,] etc. However, I recommend that you do get one with four wheel drive. With the 2 wheel drive models you may find yourself doing a lot of self recovery operations. Speaking of self recovery, I highly recommend a winch but if not able to afford one, then get a come along at the very least. Next, with all the electronic gadgets out there, a cigarette lighter plug is essential. If your machine does not have one, no problem, just visit your local auto parts store and buy a kit for this. You can install this in minutes but I recommend that you wire this through the ignition switch to prevent using up your battery when not running the four wheeler.

Now, of course this will add another list to your list of lists. ATV maintenance is essential. To start with spark plugs, belts, oil, filters, grease and spare tires. I recommend lots of spark plugs because small engine triage can be as simple as new gas and spark plugs. Many times this will get a small engine going again that has sat around a long time. If your ATV is belt or chain driven, then you need a trail spare because this can be the difference between walking and driving out of the woods. Oil is simple; a quart for the trail but a 5 gallon can for the shop. Spare tires already mounted on a second set of rims will minimize having to have a full tire shop of equipment but for the trail a good plug kit and a 12 volt air compressor. Even with the small batteries found on an ATV, it will still run 12 volt accessories, just set up that cigarette lighter plug now, so it will be there when you need it.

If you have multiple ATVs then I recommend same brands and even same years if possible. This will minimize the amount of spare parts to keep on hand as well as gives you the option of cannibalizing a machine if necessary. As you do maintenance, take note of problems with the machine as you fix them, and when you buy the parts, buy spares. Also look online at forums covering your machine and you can see what other owners typically have issues with and sometimes find some great fixes. Take a look at the types of hoses that your ATV has on it, then go buy a couple of feet of the different sizes you need. It stores well and will be irreplaceable if you ever spring a radiator leak or fuel leak. Get a small parts box with some miscellaneous bolts, nuts, washers, cotter pins, and other small parts that may be useful for a quick fix.

With the many options of racks, mounts and storage bags, outfitting a G.O.O.D. bag on an ATV is just natural. You will need a small set of tools to do trail repairs. Screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, etc. but don’t forget about hex wrenches and star bits if your machine has these. Duct tape and zip ties are great to have on hand as well. Tow strap, bungee cords, rope, saw, axe, shovel, work gloves, and lots of extra fuel (5 gallons goes a long ways on an ATV, but the more the better). Everything you would normally throw in your BOB. However, you now have room to carry more, so have an ATV BOB, but also have your personal BOB in case you have to continue on foot. Besides having a winch and a tow strap make sure you have a solid tow point on the front and back of the ATV. I also keep a tow strap connected to each with it routed up to the storage rack and zip tied in place. This allows me to be able to have a quick recovery, without getting too muddy. No one wants to be digging in mud, trying to find the tow hook when stuck.

Most preppers probably see the information I shared as common sense. However, let’s talk tactical side of ATVs. They are not quiet. They know you are coming by sound and probably light from your headlights. Put a manual on/off switch for the lights if you have one that automatically comes on while the engine is running. As far as the sound, there is little you can do here, keep your mufflers working because it will be much louder without it, and also bad exhaust gives an odor that cannot be hidden. If you need transportation that is versatile, quick, able to carry heavy loads over less than desirable trails and roads, than this may be your answer. Best to travel in pairs, stagger and one leading slightly ahead while the second performs as an over watch looking for trouble. This is where you will have to plan ahead, an easy weakness of ATVs is that to remove a rider is as simple as running some wire across a trail at head level. That being said, you have to develop some kind of wire strike system. A pole that is welded to the front bumper at an angle with a dull edge that exceeds the rider’s height when standing on the machine will do the trick but ensure you have a takedown pin, just in case it hinders a trail movement, you can then remove the wire strike pole temporarily.

Of course there are the cool gun totes that they design for ATVs. Which they are great but there typically is one flaw, the quick draw of a rifle is normally limited by the carrying device normally has to hold the gun well enough to keep it from bouncing out. First wear a hold or shoulder harness that is useable while riding the ATV, second cut down the holding case to seat the rifle well but have a quick release strap to keep it from coming out.

Now you have your basic riding load, if you want to add the trailer, you have doubled if not tripled your carrying capacity. Keep a trailer loaded up with your G.O.O.D. load and it only takes a minute to hook it up to the ATV. However, your personal G.O.O.D. bag is on the ATV, your ATV recovery and supplemental G.O.O.D. load is on the ATV. This way your trailer will have G.O.O.D. supplies but if you have to ditch the trailer in hurry, you don’t want to have to re-pack.

If you have the traditional red ATVs then a good can of spray paint will work great. If you want a nice camouflage paint job paint the panel a green color that is common in your environment. When that dries lay a piece of fern or some other leafy plant over it and spray paint it black. This works great to give a custom camo paint job. You can use whatever colors and plants that are common in your area. I would also recommend a small camo net; the diamond-shaped net out of a military camouflage set would work great. With this, you can park your ATV, cover it with the net to minimize the silhouette of the ATV. Also have a spare diamond camo net for your trailer, in case you have to drop the trailer for whatever reason. You can hide the trailer and return for it at another time.

Last to consider for an ATV bug out plan is to consider having caches in route. However, assume that you will not have the ATV so plan these supplies accordingly. You do not want to cache more than you can carry. ATVs are great additions but ultimately you must plan to maintain them as well as these items will be highly valued, during a TEOTWAWKI event. Use them for the work horses they are but be aware that they can make you a target as well. These are invaluable for assisting with farming. You can get an assortment of tools, or just the fact that they can haul huge loads without the back breaking work.

JWR Adds: In my experience, large wheel utility ATVs (UATVs) such as a Polaris Sportsman Big Boss or a John Deere Buck with a cargo box in the back, or and one of the several models with a large rear cargo platform (such as the Honda Rancher) are the most practical and versatile. Their profiles are not much larger than a standard ATV, yet they can can conveniently carry much more gear. Their large wheels also give them better ground clearance than most standard ATVs.

I recommend assembling a pre-packed G.O.O.D. kit in a pair of whitewater rafting dry bags and a backpack that can be quickly dropped in to the utility box, or strapped on to a cargo rack. That way you don’t have to constantly pack and and un-pack your UATV for other uses. The same bags can just as easily be tossed into a larger (road0 vehicle, if you opt to bug out that way.

The author mentioned the noise created by ATVs. There are now some nearly silent electric ATVs, such as a the Bad Boy Buggy, but these have limited range between charges. This makes them impractical for G.O.O.D. purposes, but they are very practical for hauling chores on retreats of 160 or smaller.

And, needless to say, whether your are at the controls of an ATV or any other vehicle, please wear a helmet and drive safely! 



Letter Re: A Firewood Sawing Reality Check

Hello Jim;  
In reference to the recent letter on using a muscle-powered crosscut saw:   For about four years now, I’ve been doing much of my wood cutting with a DC to AC inverter (AIMS 5000) that I purchased for $299 back then – they are now listed at $399.  I hook it to a used deep cycle battery that was given to me by someone who works setting up remoted gas wells.  I throw the battery, inverter and either a Husqvarna electric chain saw (for deadfallen trees) or an old Skilsaw (for old pallets) in the van and go foraging for wood. 

The inverter easily handles the demands of either saw and I can fill the van before the battery seriously drops in voltage. It’s still pretty noisy but is better than gas powered.  I also have several solar panels and could run the whole set up “from the sun” if need be.  I wasn’t thinking about preparation when I got it but that inverter and several of those batteries would greatly ease things in a grid-down situation. Thanks for all you do! – Hobomatt



Two Letters Re: Force Multipliers for Retreat Groups

Sir,
The recent Force Multipliers article was a good read, as was OSOM’s follow-up letter. Your comment about the Magic Cube flash cubes is a good one. I’m ashamed I didn’t think of that one myself.

One of my concerns is the amount of electronic gear that seems to go into play in some of our TEOTWAWKI preparations. If you look at the logistics tail of the US Military you will find that a soldier uses his weight in batteries very quickly in the field. A big problem (as I understand it from my reading) is keeping our guys supplied with batteries in the sand boxes of the world. While I have nothing against the modern multipliers and by all means, use them if you have them, you must be prepared for no electronics or very limited electronic aids. The emergency flare pens from places like this and this, and this.

Are mechanically launched flare devices, (about a .38 caliber) that can be set up as a trip signal without any electrical interface. Items like model rocket engines and electric engine igniters require electricity but are available from many hobby shops, leave no significant paper trail for those searching for “Paramilitary wing nuts” and are very effective as stand alone flash-bang devices or igniters of wood or other fuel in an emergency and are reasonably inexpensive. The exhaust of these model rocket engines is hot so don’t try to hold one (and they have a small explosive charge to ignite the next stage or deploy a parachute so keep away from both ends!) They are not waterproof but that can be remedied easily. Just be careful when handling – these are real, live rocket motors so treat them that way.

Communications is always key and radios are useful if available. Again, land line telephones and telegraphs have been used for years and although require electricity, the old telegraph systems used very basic batteries that are easily home made. Here is a link to hobbyist who are interested in land line telegraphy. There are computer programs to help with the club but your own buried land lines to your ops would be secure and require only very basic electricity. The basic field telephone is still in use in the military and is a very good, secure communications source. Night vision is great but as mentioned, the parachute flare is a much lower tech option.  Just remember, flares often indicate their launch point so using one may give away your position.

The basic “tin can filled with rocks” noise maker is an excellent motion detector that functions without reset. A pressure plate or trip wire that releases a flare needs to be reset to work a second time.

One of the basic tenets of positional defense is to channel the attack. Clear fields of fire are important but if you can make sure your opponents are coming down a path of your choosing, then setting up that kill zone becomes easier. This is a two edged sword. The French army lost Quebec because the British found a way around the ‘only’ approach to the city. The back door was guarded but not well enough. If done right, however, it makes the defenders job much easier. At this point, a laser range finder can be extremely useful. Use it to build a range card to all landmarks within your view. It is easier to use than a tape and attracts less attention. Then once the rangefinder is no longer available, you have known distances. Modern snipers do the same now when setting up a site as it avoids having to impinge a laser on the target before the shot. If his shadow falls on that boulder then he is 473 yards away kind of reasoning. Thorn trees, ditches, canals (think moat), swamps massive sharp trash (broken glass, sharp metal objects), caltrops (easily made from nails and Styrofoam). Also consider vertical drops, but be careful here: a cliff was the protection for Quebec, and General Wolf outsmarted General Montcalm by having his men climb this ‘un-scalable’ cliff in the dark. Anything that makes it difficult and noisy to come that way instead of the easier path that you want them on works.

Booby traps are illegal in most states so don’t use them. If a booby trap causes injury or death then you may well be facing an assault or murder charge. Some of the low tech weapons of choice here like punji sticks or explosive devices such as mines or IEDs are not in our arsenal unless it is truly TEOTWAWKI. Any less serious scenario and you are likely facing charges.

My point is that it is great to have the high tech stuff but in a long duration situation, you most likely don’t have enough batteries to depend on your devices. Use them while you have them, especially to survive the first waves of the Golden Horde, but be prepared to go low tech when the need arises. – Captain Bart

 

Sir:
I believe that an even greater force multiplier than secure radios is having the knowledge and the capability of countering anyone using radio communications against you. Triangulation can be done with a single antenna, this is documented in amateur radio literature and you can participate in direction finding competitions. Triangulation is much more difficult when frequency hopping radios are used (like military grade radios and digital cell phones). All you really need to get started with triangulation is a directional antenna, such as a yagi. A wide-band receiver and 2-meter yagi would be a good bet.

If you want to monitor many radio frequencies at once, there is a community of programmers working on the GNU radio project. GNU radio software, combined with a software-defined radio such as the Ettus Research Universal Software Radio Peripheral (USRP), gives you the radio eyes and ears at a working-man’s budget. To get a visual of a software-defined radio’s capabilities, try visiting some of the online-receivers here. The USRP is capable of monitoring 50 Mhz of bandwidth at once, so with one device you could detect any aircraft, marine, 2-meter ham or civil service transmissions on any of these frequency at once. One software radio transceiver + amplifier and a laptop is more useful than an entire room full of ham radio equipment. You won’t be limited to voice communications, the software radio will plug in to almost any digital transceiver out there including 802.11x, it will allow you to transmit and receive HDTV signals, operate as a GSM cellular network, receive satellite broadcasts, GPS and everything else. These are increasingly important in the modern world. Ham radios are relegated to emergency communications and will not provide you with a modicum of security when you most need it.

The USRP, an amplifier, antenna, and a stack of unlocked Motorola Motofone F3 GSM phones is my pick for truly secure post-SHTF communications on a budget. This would provide coverage out to a mile or so with a medium size (concealable) base antenna, and everyone would have a week of battery life. A large-scale field test has happened at the Burning Man festival since 2008. The drawbacks are that it’s not legal to use these GSM frequencies without FCC authorization (guaranteed no-go in populated areas), and the setup isn’t as mobile as a secure personal communication system. An alternative is 802.11x VOIP phones and an Asterisk server, shorter range but uses unlicensed radio frequencies.

The US government has has export-banned most radio security technology. Encryption software is still classified as a “munition” and hence [high level] commercial encryption products are under export controls. The use of encryption on all virtually all civilian radio frequencies is illegal. All truly secure (frequency hopping) radio products I find online are not available to consumers, like the Harris Secure Personal Radio.

I’m not sure if you or your readers know of a frequency hopping personal communication system, I’ve been interested in such a product for a long time but I’m guessing were I to find anything out there it would be too expensive for my budget, given the unique nature of it. – Jeff M.

JWR Replies: As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, both Motorola and Trisquare make frequency hopping radios that operate on the 900 MHz band, with no license required. Their hopping algorithms are rudimentary, so they would be vulnerable to intercept by government agencies (by design), but they’d be relatively secure from interception and even detection by most private citizens. (When a frequency hopper is keyed up, typically the only noticeable change seen on a spectrum analyzer is that the “noise floor” jumps up.)



Economics and Investing:

After much foot dragging, the Federal Reserve banking cartel finally fessed up to lavishing $3.3 trillion in new liquidity and in excess of $9 trillion in “short term” loans. But in doing so, they soft-pedaled the fact that a good portion of that was used to bailing out soured or failed mortgage-backed securities (MBS) derivatives contracts. Gee, even the biggest casino in the world can get insurance, these days. But I suspect that the next derivatives meltdown will be so big that it will bring down the global financial system.

C.D.V. suggested this article: Any Talk of Recovery is False. Here is snippet: “As you can see, the great retail recovery of 2010 is a sham. Comparable store sales increases of 3% are inflation-adjusted decreases of 5%. If you drive around with your eyes open, you would think the hot new retailer in America is called Space Available.”

Quest for Revenue Department: San Francisco plans tolls between Peninsula and the city. (Link courtesy of SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson)

Peter Schiff: The Dollar Threads a Needle

Items from The Economatrix:

10 Signs That Confidence In US Treasuries Is Dying And That Financial Armageddon May Be Approaching

Droughts, Floods, Cold, and Snow Hit Global Commodities  

The Fed’s Final Days  

Doomsday For The US Dollar:  Post Mortem for the World’s “Reserve Currency”

Dollar May Drop 11% in 2011 as Treasuries Fall, Says CitiGroup  

Chinese Take-out Of The US Economy, Debt Crisis Triggering Reserves Conversion Into Gold and Silver





Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader N.I.M. mentioned: Health Disaster Preparedness Rankings by State. N.I.M. ‘s comment: “Now if we could only get a ranking for overall preparedness.”

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Rural America gets even more sparsely populated. Most thinly populated counties in the U.S. continued to lose residents in the last decade, new census data show. December 15, 2010| By Doug Smith and Richard Fausset, Los Angeles Times. The article begins: “The majority of the nation’s sparsely populated rural counties lost even more residents in the last decade, though some of the counties — particularly those in the Mountain West — saw population gains that may be the result of retirees striking out for areas that are both scenic and affordable…”. [Emphasis Added.] I suspect that some those gains may be due to people wisely seeking safe retreat regions! (Thanks to stalwart SurvivalBlog contributor F.G. for the link.)

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John R. suggested this think piece by Giordano Bruno: Constitutional Judo

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Does this invention have some G.O.O.D. possibilities? To Warm The Homeless, A Coat That’s A Sleeping Bag. (Thanks to T. Moo for the link.)