Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Alternative Energy Sources For Emergencies, by Smiledr

Being in preparedness mode opens your eyes to a number of factors, not just Beans, Bullets and Band-Aids. As a battalion coordinator for the Los Angeles Fire Department’s CERT program, I was asked to give a presentation on Alternative Energy sources for an emergency situation. My research into this was very enlightening, and I found a number of great ideas. This does not encompass everything available, but it is fairly thorough.

So, why Alternative Energy? In an emergency, such as a major earthquake, there can be a loss of power, gas and water. If it is a short-term problem e.g. a couple of days, then no big deal. But what if it is two weeks, or even longer before gas, electrical and water services are restored? Being prepared for such a scenario is just one more area that will make our lives, as well as our families lives easier in the event of such an emergency

There are three areas of Alternative Energy that we need to be concerned with in an emergency: Heat, Cooking and Electricity. The first, heat, means staying warm in your home or shelter and is a huge priority. Once you get cold, survival can become extremely difficult.   Wearing warm clothes, wearing layers, and being prepared for rain, are the very basics. Have blankets and well-made sleeping bags for nighttime when the temperatures drop. (Wiggy’s makes a Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS) which is similar to what the the U.S. military uses.)

Fireplaces- These are designed more for show, and traditional open masonry fireplaces should not be considered heating devices. Traditional fireplaces draw in as much as 300 cubic feet per minute have heated room air for combustion, and then send it straight up the chimney. Although some fireplace designs seek to address these issues with dedicated air supplies, glass doors, and heat recovery systems, fireplaces are still energy losers. When burning a fire, you should turn your heat down or off and open a window near the fireplace. 

Fireplace Inserts – Only high-efficiency fireplace inserts have proven effective in increasing the heating efficiency of older fireplaces. Essentially, the inserts function like woodstoves, fitting into the masonry fireplace or on its hearth, and use the existing chimney.  A well-fitted fireplace insert can function nearly as efficiently as a woodstove.  Studies have shown that proper installation of fireplace inserts is very important.  Inserts should be as airtight as possible. The more airtight it is, the easier it is to control the fire and the heat output.

Wood Stoves and Pellet Stoves – Wood stoves are the most common appliance for burning wood. New catalytic stoves and inserts have advertised efficiencies of 70%–80%.  Advanced combustion woodstoves provide a lot of heat but only work efficiently when the fire burns at full throttle. Also known as secondary burn stoves, they can reach temperatures of 1,100°F—hot enough to burn combustible gases   These stoves have several components that help them burn combustible gases, as well as particulates, before they can exit the chimney. Components include a metal channel that heats secondary air and feeds it into the stove above the fire. This heated oxygen helps burn the volatile gases above the flames without slowing down combustion. While many older stoves only have an air source below the wood, the secondary air source in advanced combustion stoves offers oxygen to the volatile gases escaping above the fire. With enough oxygen, the heated gases burn as well.

Pellet Burning Stoves – Pellet fuel appliances burn small, 3/8–inch (100–254 millimeter [mm])-long pellets that look like rabbit feed. The pellets are made from compacted sawdust, wood chips, bark, agricultural crop waste, waste paper, and other organic materials. Some models can also burn nutshells, corn kernels, and small wood chips. They are more convenient to operate and have much higher combustion and heating efficiencies than ordinary wood stoves or fireplaces. However, they do require a supply of pellets, and electricity.  A pellet stove is often cheaper to install than a cordwood-burning heater. Many can be direct-vented and do not need an expensive chimney or flue. As a result, the installed cost of the entire system may be less than that of a conventional wood stove. Pellet fuel appliances are available as freestanding stoves or fireplace inserts. Freestanding units resemble conventional cordwood heaters in that they generally heat a single room well, but not adjacent rooms unless you use a fan to force the warm air into those other spaces. There are also fireplace inserts that fit into existing fireplaces. Because they require electricity for their pellet conveyers and for their fans, pellet stoves are NOT a good choice for disaster survival unless you have a fairly capable alternative energy system with a battery bank and have the dry storage space for a large stockpile of pellets.

Space Heaters – There are 3 basic types of space Heaters:
Electric Space Heaters, Propane (or natural gas) Space Heaters and Kerosene Space Heaters.
Electric Space Heaters are the most commonly seen by most of us. They do a pretty good job at heating up a room.  The problem is that you have to have back up electricity of some type to make them run. They are good for the short term if you have a back up system, but can be draining on back up batteries. Next are the Gas or Propane Space Heaters.  They run on Propane or White Gas and don’t require any electricity. They will run on your barbeque propane tank, or other sources of natural or propane gas. These heaters have to be properly vented, and can be very dangerous used indoors without proper venting.

The last type of Space heater is the Kerosene Space Heater. It uses a wick that soaks up kerosene (only K-1 kerosene) from a refillable tank.
These heaters have double the heating capacity of an electric heater — ideal for heating large areas. You should look for a model with an automatic shut-off feature

Space Heater Safety – When using space heaters, it’s important to be aware of the risks involved and how to prevent accidents. Here are some guidelines to follow to maximize your safety:  Select a space heater with a guard around the heating area to keep children, pets and clothing away from the heat source. Keep all flammable liquids away from the heater. Place the heater at least three feet away from bedding, furniture, curtains, or anything else that could fall on the heater and cause a fire. Never leave the heater unattended. Look for a heater that has been tested and certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory such as Underwriter’s Laboratory. This way you can be sure that specific safety standards have been met.  If you use a heater that burns kerosene, LP, natural gas or wood, make sure you have a carbon monoxide detector installed on every floor of your house.  When purchasing natural gas or LP heaters, look for a model with an oxygen depletion sensor feature. These sensors will automatically shut the heater down when it detects the air is low on oxygen.

Cooking – Alternative methods to cook food and sterilize water may become necessary.
In the event of a major disaster or other Emergency, there may not be availability of gas or electric for cooking addition, due to possible water supply contamination, it may be necessary to boil water for drinking and possibly laundry.

There are a number of possible solutions to this problem. We will start with the simplest, and work from there.

Soda Can Stove – A beverage-can stove (or pop-can stove) is a homemade, ultra-light portable stove. The simple design is made entirely from cans (typically soft drink or beer cans) and burns alcohol, typically denatured. Countless variations on the basic design exist.  A ring of holes is pierced into the top with a pin. Parts are glued with high temperature epoxy or sealed with thermal foil tape. The total height is less than two inches (50 mm), though dimensions can be increased to hold more fuel or decreased to take up even less space.  This can be made by yourself, or purchased online for very cheap.  Another Alcohol Stove Option is the Vargo Titanium Alcohol stove which comes with a built-in pot stand. Note that these must be operated outdoors or in a very-well ventilated area!

Propane or White Gas Stoves – These are lightweight camping stoves that run on propane, butane or white gas.  They can be found online or at most backpacking and camping stores such as REI, Adventure 16 or even Sports Chalet or Sports Authority. These types of stoves rely on canisters of gas to work. My Favorite Mini Stove is The Jetboil, It is an ultra compact 1 liter unit that can quickly heat water for dehydrated or freeze-dried meals. The JetBoil Personal Cooking System (PCS) weighs about a pound.  It lights with the click of a button. It can bring two cups of water to a boil within two minutes (at sea level). Jetboil also makes the larger Group Jetboil system. This is sized for small groups of 2 to 3 and has a 1.5 liter fuel capacity.

Volcano II Collapsible Stove – This is a Tri-Fuel Stove that can use Charcoal, Wood or Propane for cooking. It is a very versatile cooking system: You can grill right on the stove or use a skillet or pot or even a Dutch oven. You can cook a meal with as few as 12 Charcoal Briquettes. A 20 lb bag of charcoal will cook 1 hot meal per day for several months. Overall, a really great, compact system. Note that these too must be operated outdoors or in a very-well ventilated area!

The Solar oven – For those who are very patient with a solar oven, if the sun is shining, you can cook.  Solar cooking is clean, it keeps the heat out of your kitchen, and it uses a free source of energy…the sun.  With solar cooking, you can’t start dinner at 5 pm because you’ve lost your source of fuel. Your best cooking hours are during midday. You may want to do what our ancestors did; have breakfast in the morning, a big meal in the afternoon and a light snack before bed. See SunOven.com for more information

Electricity – Keeping appliances going, lighting at night, Radio and television for information. If the grid goes down during an emergency, It could last an hour, 24 hours or weeks.
Power may come back on then go off again, as in a rolling brown out scenario.
It is important to have a number of alternatives for electrical needs.
You need to evaluate what it is you simply cannot do without that uses electricity, and plan accordingly.

Lighting – There are a number of options for your lighting needs.
The simplest solution to lighting issues is the use of candles. 120 hour emergency candles are a great start. There are also liquid candles, propane lanterns designed for camping and Kerosene lanterns.  Be sure to take appropriate precautions to avoid fires.

Flashlights and Batteries – Multiple flashlights are a good idea. LEDs will last much longer than traditional filament bulbs, and draw less current per lumen. If you have any lights with filaments bulbs, then sure to have plenty of spare bulbs. There are also LED lanterns available which are very convenient.
It is also a good idea to have a head lantern, this will allow you to work with both hands, so you don’t have to hold a flashlight.  Loads of batteries are a must.

Rechargeable Batteries – After much research I recommend the following: The Sanyo Eneloop battery comes fully charged up upon purchase and even after hundreds of charge-discharge cycles; it will retain 85% charged up capacity after 12 months. This means that you can charge up these batteries, put them away in your drawer or cupboard and in a year’s time when an emergency occurs, you can whip them out and they will still be charged up to 85% capacity. As well as this, Sanyo claim 1,000 recharges are possible before deterioration and the Eneloop is renowned for its long life even when consistently used in high drain devices such as digital cameras and transmitters.

Battery Charger
The ultimate small battery charger is the La Crosse Technology Battery Charger is a “smart” charger. It has sophisticated monitoring circuitry that controls the charging process, and it is also capable of “renewing” batteries by running full controlled discharge-recharge cycles. The charger shows battery voltage and charge status on its digital display.
It has four separate charge channels so you can charge one, two three or four batteries at a time – even on individual charge programs. This allows you to test one battery while charging the others. The package deal comes with four AA and four AAA batteries, four battery adapters (which convert AA sized battery to C and D sizes) and a carry case.
 .
Generators – Before you buy a generator, you need to figure out how much wattage you really need. You also need to decide where you are going to run the generator; it has to be in an open area. Having done some research on this I can give a couple recommendations. For a large generator, I’d suggest the Powerland Portable Generator.  It has 10,000 Watt Surge/8,000 Watt Continuous duty capability.  It is mounted on a steel frame with four point isolated motor mounts and has and oversize a muffler to reduce engine noise. These have a typical small power panel with a “low oil” warning light. They have a key start switch voltmeter circuit breaker and power outlets. Like most other generators, it has an idle control that holds a constant RPM.

On the smaller, quieter side is the Honeywell HW2000i Generator. This generator uses an inverter, which keeps voltage consistent and reduces the risk of damage to electronics such as computers and televisions.  It’s great for emergency scenarios because it’s relatively small, lightweight (58 pounds) and quiet. Two AC outlets and one DC outlet are included. But if you don’t need to power electronics, you can get about twice as much power for the same price with a standard (non-inverter) generator.

Gas Generator Problems – Gasoline is not a fuel that professionals ever choose to use on emergency generators.  Hospitals and other large facilities “never” install gasoline powered emergency generators.  They always use natural gas or diesel.  Gasoline has a very limited shelf life and will actually cause engine failure.  Worst of all when power outages occur due to ice storms, hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes and all other disasters, the first commodity to be hoarded is gasoline.  The hurricanes that hit Florida were sad proof of that.  Propane, and especially natural gas, were more plentiful and just the ticket to keep the lights on and the crews working.    Unfortunately, as some have learned the hard way, if not used often enough, gasoline will gum up the carburetor and will render an engine on the emergency generator useless. If you have invested in an emergency generator, make sure that it runs when you need it the most.  Modify your emergency generator to run on propane or natural gas or even keep the gasoline option if you like and have the option to run all three fuels on the same engine

How to build the tri-fuel generator – Buy a Coleman Powermate Emergency Generator – (6,875 Watts Peak) or a similar generator.  Then buy a Low Pressure Tri-Fuel Type C Kit priced for most engine brands up to 12 h.p. These cost $187. They are available from Propane-Generators.com. Propane and natural gas can save you time, money and aggravation.  This do-it-yourself change over kit allows you to run your gasoline emergency generator on propane (LP Gas), natural gas, or all three. 
Propane and natural gas are truly backup fuels for a backup emergency generator.  Your engine will last longer, start better in cold weather and even start next year when you go to use it in an emergency.  The best part is, with one of these do-it-yourself kits you can change your engine from gasoline to propane or natural gas all by yourself.

Why use propane or natural gas to power my generator?
If you have propane available you know you can store propane for years because it does not gum up, or go bad like gasoline does.  You can use the 100# (24 gallon) cylinders, little barbeque grill type 20# cylinders, which is equivalent to 5 gallons of gasoline, or big tanks like 250, 500 and 1,000-gallon ASME tanks. If you have natural gas available you would certainly agree that it is probably the most dependable fuel on earth and virtually an unlimited supply.   It does not gum up or go stale like gasoline. 

Solar Panels – Photovoltaic panels with battery banks, charge controllers and inverters are available from a number of vendors. [JWR Adds: Be careful to size your system to match your power needs and be sure to do some thorough comparison pricing. Unless it you are buying a specialized transportable PV system, the bottom line is the cost per watt. There is at least one vendor that heavily advertises nationally using the phrase “Solar Backup Generator” that sells packaged systems with a very high price, per watt. The good news is that there are many reputable vendors out there that offer high quality equipment at competitive pricing. Some of these vendors advertise on SurvivalBlog.)]

As you can see, there are a lot of options out there. I haven’t covered everything, such as DC appliances, propane refrigerators, or making your own Bio diesel fuel. With a little research, you can set up a back up system for all of your energy needs.

Increasing Preparedness Planning Through the Rules of Three by SAA Joe

After reading “Patriots” and then becoming a regular reader of SurvivalBlog I quickly realized the opportunities I had to improve my preparedness.  As someone who enjoyed the outdoors I always felt I had some of the skills and materials but realized the task to have the right preparations in the right quantities was going to be a challenge.  Where do I start?  This was especially compounded with the semi-urban apartment lifestyle I live, in the worst state west of the Mississippi, and one that is sure to be disrupted by some type of event – a major earthquake at the very least.  I expect far worse to actually occur here.  Soon after seeing all of the valuable information and insight on SurvivalBlog I found a desire to contribute to those that need a process and a nudge to get going.  Many people like me would love to move to a retreat location but are still enjoying some of what cities have to offer as well as the inability to make a major lifestyle change just yet.  So, how do I start and how do I help others?    While I have been a SurvivalBlog reader I have not seen mention of the survival “Rules of 3” which I learned years ago and apply to my outdoor adventures. 

The Rules of 3 may not have the long term prepper appeal that is a big focus of this blog but it is the foundation for how I am looking at my personal journey to improved survival planning and preparation.  There are many posts talking about training for muscle memory and the need for skills or knowledge, this “mental memory” training is what I like to refer to as “instinct reinforcement” that will train your mental responses much like physical drills create muscle memory.  I hope that my adaptation to the Rules of 3 will help beginning preppers prioritize a plan to expand their preparedness while also developing a mental path that can help them build their “mental memory” along the way.   

The way I learned the survival Rules of 3 was very simple.  Generally, someone can survive:

  • 3 minutes without oxygen
  • 3 hours without shelter
  • 3 days without water
  • 3 weeks without food  

When you get to the core of survival, understanding these simple rules will prioritize and focus your survival needs during a critical situation.  Remaining calm and stopping to rationally address each of the rules in progression will greatly improve your potential for survival in any situation whether it be simple like being lost in the woods or a full TEOTWAWKI.  The odds of being someplace other than your retreat, or even your primary residence, in a SHTF scenario is overwhelming for the mass populace of our country.  While many of the sheeple out there probably could not get themselves out of a paper bag obstacle, the way I figure it is that if something happened in the middle of nowhere, in the city or at home, at least remembering the Rules of 3 allows you to stop and to bring calm and rationale thinking in an otherwise bad situation.  My additional Rules of 3 are developed to help others develop their own plan.  One caveat:  SurvivalBlog is full of material to help you prioritize the right items and quantities.  I am not going to provide a list of lists or full checklist as there are many others far better and more detailed than I could ever be in a single contribution.  My goal is to provide you with a high level map to help you achieve you preparation objectives via a simple adaptation of the most basic survival priorities.       

So, let’s start adapting the Rules of 3.  
Hopefully 3 minutes without oxygen is self explanatory.  You have to breathe to survive!    3 hours without shelter is about protection from the elements, “shelter your body”.  Staying dry first and staying warm second are two of the most important elements to address here.  Being prepared means you need to have the right protection from rain and snow and necessary layers for warmth, or methods to cool down, which are customized to your area.  Even if the lack of dry boots or warm socks might not kill me in 3 hours, I still wouldn’t want to endure that so I use the 3 hours without shelter rule for any of my kits where weather protection and warmth are a component.  For the first big step in our Rules of 3 mapping, I include components like blankets, sleeping bags, a tarp or tent and anything to keep a temporary roof over my head and warm, dry clothes on my body.  For simplicity this is also where the tools and ability to start a fire should be captured.  A knife and multi-tool as well as a flashlight come in handy at this phase.  For those more familiar with the process, this is where we start with the makings of a bug out bag or even have a nearly final bug out bag (BOB).   

3 days without water is next.  Our Rule of 3 adaptation is not to go 3 days without water but to make sure our stores begin with a minimum of 3 days worth of drinking water on hand.  Drinking water for just you for 3 days means you generally need to have 3 gallons ready (1 gallon per day).  Multiple 3 gallons by the number of people you are preparing for and you have your 3 days without water covered.  Keep in mind you will also need to plan appropriate amounts of water for hygiene and sanitation.  After you have your water needs set you should move on to a full 3 day plan.  This is when a traditional 72 hour kit or BOB should be completed.  I could not do any better than the many articles on the web about on building a BOB or 72 hour kit.  You will find A Bug Out Bag Reality Check to be a nice article to help you build and test a your kit.  

3 weeks without food.  By now you’ve built a BOB and are starting to understand the Rules of 3 as well as how to use them to increase your preparedness and to prioritize your survival needs.  You may have included some food in the previous step building your BOB (as you should have) but now is when you start taking it to the next level.  Further adapting the 3 weeks without food rules means it is time take the next step to secure and store 3 weeks of food and water.  Too many sheeple barely have 3 days of food and water, so while others are rushing to the store during everyday emergencies like recent snow/ice storms, you can be focused on other more important efforts.  3 weeks of food can be a combination of long term items and extras of everyday items that you rotate through.  Think canned goods, cereal and combinations of items seen in the many SurvivalBlog posts.  Don’t forget preparation methods and all of the associated redundancies.  The key here is to be prepared and self sufficient for 3 weeks.  By being prepared with 3 weeks of food and water, ways to prepare that food, and all of the other preparedness needs you are advancing your readiness to a new level.  The final addition to the 3 week plan is to begin looking at your weaponry and self defense needs.  At this stage it is a personal choice that must meet your situation and local limitations.  I highly suggest you have something at this point but will defer to others that are more expert in the topic for specifics.  Just don’t come knocking on my door trying to get my stuff because I was prepared and you weren’t.  You should be prepared to defend what is yours.   

Now we expand the Rules of 3 to expanding our preparations.  The kitchen pantry is full and you have a rotation plan for your extra 3 weeks of food and water.  There is a stack of gear in a corner of the second bedroom in Rubbermaid totes, duffle bags or backpacks with a printed list of individual contents in multiple locations and on your PC.  You are re-purposing some of your camping gear and are starting to think with a different mentality as it comes to being prepared.  The space in your apartment or home is getting tighter and it is time to take a step that requires more planning and more specialized planning.  Once you achieve this level I feel you can be called a “prepper”.  So let’s move into the new rules of 3.

The first new Rule of 3 is very similar to the 3 week rule.  But this is the Rule of 3 months.  The next step in your journey is to ensure your planning and preparations are enough to cover your needs for 3 months.  If the SHTF so bad that it goes into 3 months then this is a Rule of 3 phase where things are really starting to deteriorate.  While expanding your food, water and other stores to the 3 month level is not a simple or cheap task it is your priority for this stage.  This is a bridge period where you may not be able to store 3 months of water so you should have a plan or source of replenishment and water treatment.  Even more critical, at the 3 month level, your armory becomes a priority and should begin to evolve and expand based on your situation.  While it might not be time for a long range hunting rifle it is definitely time for the localized defense of a shotgun and probably a battle rifle.  Types and calibers are for you to decide and while not previously mentioned, a pistol is already in my BOB. 

My personal pistol choice is the Glock brothers where you can get a pocket size version (little brother) of a full size frame that allows for redundant ammo supply and some parts interchangeability (like magazines).  The 3 month plan also includes building more ammo and related shooting accessories into your reserves.  Other supplies and maybe some items to help others or trade can come in play here too.  It is very easy to start running out of, or missing things that you need a 3 month supply of.  This is true for others too so the insurance of an oversupply on a couple of items everyone needs will help you get 1-2 of the items you need or ran out of.   

I personally have achieved many of the needs outlined for the Rule of 3 months but I am working to fine tune the list, storage, tactical plans and redundancies needed at this stage.   When you get to this stage you too will be well above the average person out there living next door to you.    Moving from 3 months to 3 years is a very big leap.  Now we are at a true TEOTWAWKI scenario which brings us to the Rule of 3 years.  The best map to get to the 3 year mark is to continue to build from your 3 month level as you go.  Based on resources (time, talent and treasure) you may be able to leap to a one year supply of food.  Great.  Make sure you prioritize other needs next.  Check.  Now make sure your ammo and shooting supplies expand.  Or maybe, given the current political climate, you prioritize armory needs now and then move on to other needs second. 

The final objective of a true Rule of 3 years plan is really a Rural Retreat.  Having 3 years of food in your apartment will do you little good at this point but don’t get discouraged.  This is about process and planning.  The preparation road map is about building your preparedness bridge from 3 months to 3 years of readiness and determined the next step for you.  There are many stages between 3 months and 3 years that can be achieved so go for it.      

In conclusion, as referenced too many times on SurvivalBlog, we all see how evolution combined with the comforts and conveniences of the 21st century has removed many of our survival instincts. Utilizing the survival Rules of 3 will provide a preparedness map and the “mental memory” assistance to think through your needs if there is ever a time to call them into action. – Slightly Above Average (SAA) Joe

Letter Re: The Downward Trend for PV Panel Prices

Jim,
I’ve had the impression for some time now that from all the so-called alternative energy sources, photovoltaic (PV) panels appeared to be the only one capable of really having an impact on traditional fossil fuels. Years ago the lowest prices you would see for solar panels were about $4 per watt. Not long ago a batch of new startups entered the marketplace producing thin-film solar cells, which could be manufactured with far fewer materials and some of these companies (Nanosolar) claimed their cell production cost less than $1 per watt, which was a symbolic price point that represented competitiveness with the price of coal-plant electricity. It was one of those things you’d wonder about, like claims of table-top cold fusion.

Ever since I heard about thin-film solar production I have tracked these companies and their progress toward retail production. I had previously checked the panel prices perhaps two years ago and the first thin-film solar panels were available at around $2.60 per watt.  Today I visited the same site and found a link to a vendor advertising $1.69 per watt panels, I thought that was a pretty good price and I clicked the link to see more, to my surprise the site was also selling panels for as low as $0.98 per watt.  These low-cost panels use a silicon-based thin-film technology, essentially the same silicon panel technology that has been around for decades but manufacturing improvements have reduced the amount of semiconductor-grade silicon to 1% of what it was previously.

They may have actually hit retail production at this price level (earlier than I expected to see it!). This is good news for many reasons but the big one is the stability/economic security this can deliver, the lower cost of energy will eventually lead to rapid economic growth, more food, fuel and everything. It will free us from our dependence on foreign oil by not only making electricity cheaper but reducing the cost of battery production and ushering in new transportation technologies. And at the very least, it means that 5 kilowatt solar array you were thinking of building on your house may be a fraction of the price right now, and it’s a good time to build it.

I expect the trend to continue, I don’t know how low it will go. I suspect that the competition in this industry is ferocious, there is a race on to be the next energy giant and a bunch of totally overhyped clean-energy startups with hundreds of millions in venture capital all trying to eat each other, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see $0.50 per watt panels in the next few years, panels may even be selling for less than the cost of production. – Jeff M.

Economics and Investing:

Reader Donald M. sent this: The Fed Won’t Be Able to Combat Inflation by Raising Fed Funds Rate

In the latest Daily Bell: US Panel Blames Banks for ’08 Meltdown, but not Central Banks

John Browne: The Great Debt Shift. Here is a quote: “Two of the world’s largest economies, the EU ($16 trillion) and the US ($14 trillion), have become the leading practitioners of private-to-public debt shifting. The US has assumed the debts of banks, insurers, mortgage holders, and even entire industrial sectors. The European Union has done the same for entire states. The resulting public debt levels are, predictably, placing strains on both the dollar and the euro. Worse still, the bailouts have created a spirit of apathy toward debt accumulation. Western governments have embarked on a debt binge for the ages. Already, the credit ratings of the United States and some of the EU’s core countries, such as France and the UK, are being questioned. While this socialization of private debt has created deep citizen resentment, it remains to be seen whether political pressure is enough to hold back the tide…”

Greece Default with Ireland to Break Euro by 2016 in Global Investor Poll

Fed to Pursue QE Even as Business Lending Gains

Items from The Economatrix:

Unemployment Rises in 20 States, Falls in 15  

Only 47% of Working-Age Americans Have Full Time Jobs  

A Three-Minute Lesson in Gold Investing  

The End Is Near For Credit Cards  

Odds ‘n Sods:

K.Y. pointed me to the web page for a new european shotgun slug design that looks very promising: Hexolit 32. Bowhunters will notice a similarity to modern broadheads!

   o o o

J.M.B. mentioned this: Mock city rises at Marine base for urban training. It has 1,560 buildings!

   o o o

Reader F.G. spotted a piece that obviously must have been written before The Governator left office: Top 10 Reasons Not to Live in California. Gee, and the article doesn’t even mention my #1 reason: draconian gun laws that have disarmed the citizenry.

   o o o

Risk of Riots Rising as Governments Cut Food Subsidies, UN’s Sheeran Says

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“The patriot who feels himself in the service of God, who acknowledges Him in all his ways, has the promise of Almighty direction, and will find His Word in his greatest darkness, a lantern to his feet and a lamp unto his paths.’ He will therefore seek to establish for his country in the eyes of the world, such a character as shall make her not unworthy of the name of a Christian nation….” – Francis Scott Key, February 22, 1812

Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

TEOTWAWKI Home Dentistry, by Frank J.

 A dental problem occurring in an environment where access to professional care is limited or absent may progress to a point which seriously degrades the functioning of the afflicted individual. A dental emergency would be defined as a medical emergency where pain or swelling originates from the teeth, jaws or gingiva (gums). The vast majority of dental emergencies arise from either tooth decay or periodontal disease commonly referred to as gum disease. Both are a result of a bacterial infection but follow different pathologic paths.

Tooth decay has its humble beginnings when certain bacteria, ever present in the mouth, adhere and colonize on teeth or exposed root surfaces. As we eat, the bacteria on our teeth metabolize the same sugars that are in our foods and excrete acid and/or toxins. The teeth and their supporting bone and gums respond in different ways to bacteria.  The teeth which we see when looking in a mirror are most susceptible to being affected by bacterial acid and will slowly dissolve when subjected to repeated bacterial acid attack. The bacteria adherent to the tooth wall, referred to as a bacterial plaque, is responsible for the initial event which leads to tooth cavitation and the propagation of the decay process. The most common sites to decay are those areas on the teeth which are the most difficult to clean, for example, the pit and fissure biting surface of molars and bicuspids, in-between the teeth and around the margins of existing dental fillings or crowns. At first, cavities are small and painless, but over a two to three year time interval will increase in size and depth until symptoms such as tooth fracture, tooth pain or swelling occur. Once the tooth has become painful or abscessed, the infected or inflamed nerve must be removed by either tooth extraction or root canal treatment.

The second major cause of dental emergencies is Periodontal or gum disease. It is caused by the immune system’s response to bacterial plaque adherent to the root surface of teeth and necessarily located below the gum line.  The actual causal agent of periodontal disease is once again a bacterial plaque but a second component is necessary and that is an exaggerated immune response. According to a 2004 National Institute of Health (NIH) study the prevalence of periodontal disease in a general population aged 20 to 64 years of age is 8.52%. In my experience I find this number low. In any event, susceptible individuals exhibit an exaggerated inflammatory response to the bacterial plaque (anaerobes, in this case) and endotoxins causing bone loss around the root of the tooth. The initial stages of gum disease, like tooth decay, are painless, with symptoms usually occurring at more advanced stages. Periodontal disease can start in third decade of life (20’s) and go unnoticed until the fifth or sixth decade (40s-50s) of life when the teeth and gums become symptomatic. Generally, periodontal disease will affect the entire dentition and progress at a slower rate than decay induced dental disease. Symptoms of advanced periodontal disease include loose or mobile teeth, pus and bleeding from the gums around the teeth, bad breath, pain and swelling of the gums. Current treatment for periodontal disease returns excellent results, in terms of teeth retained when combined with ultrasonic scalars, lasers, bone regeneration, surgical and non-surgical methods. Although current delivery of treatment of dental diseases requires professional care in a fully equipped office, including a trained staff, an alternate plan should be available if the above mentioned services and facilities are no longer available.  It would be prudent to plan for dental treatment in a post TEOTWAWKI world for symptomatic teeth caused by decay or periodontal disease as well as planning to avoid, slow down and reduce the likelihood of dental disease and emergencies.

Modern dentistry has reached a technologically advanced state and the standard of care is indeed high. In a post TEOTWAWKI situation, the current standard of care will no longer exist and dental treatment, if it exists at all, may be limited to basic care such as treating infection and relieving pain. Even with the lowered standard of care, dental treatment delivered by a dentist will be difficult but not impossible. First, let’s dismiss the idea that the current emergency dental kits will be anything more than a short term temporary fix at best. They cannot and do not address the problem of a toothache other than placing a topical anesthetic on the large cavity found in the tooth. Placing the temporary cement, which is included with the kits, in decayed teeth, does nothing to alter the disease course.  The myth that modern restorative dentistry and periodontal treatments can be done under such adverse conditions is just that, a myth. Just taking out the decay will not cure an abscessed tooth! Treating a toothache in these circumstances, no matter the cause, should be done with a goal of (1) definitively solving the problem and (2) relieving pain and suffering.  In most cases this is best done by extracting the tooth. Probably greater than 90% of serious dental emergencies could be treated by extraction i.e. forceps extraction of the painful tooth under local anesthetic. The procedure itself requires a minimum of instruments, materials, personal and equipment. Once it is determined that there are no dentists or dental clinics available and the status quo will not be changing in the foreseeable future, the task of diagnosis and treatment will fall to the medical officer of your group or someone so inclined. Simple tooth extraction has been done with no anesthesia numerous times by untrained personal because the patient decided that the extraction procedure was a better alternative than living with the increasing facial swelling and continuous dental pain. The more desirable plan, of course, is to use local anesthesia and make the procedure as pain free as possible as well as to develop the knowledge to attempt such treatment.

To successfully anesthetize a tooth depends upon its location. All upper teeth are anesthetized for an extraction by first injecting the anesthetic solution in the mucobuccal fold (the fold formed by the oral mucosa as it transitions from the upper jaw to the cheek) directly opposite the tooth to be extracted. I typically inject 1.8cc of a 2% Lidocaine with 1:100,000 epinephrine solution in a dental aspirating syringe (a regular 3cc medical syringe would work also) using a 30 or 27 gauge short needle. Incidentally, a 1.8ml dose is the standard dose in a pre-loaded dental anesthetic carpule which is used with a dental aspirating syringe. This is an infiltration injection and once the mucosa is penetrated the needle is advanced approximately 10mm, aspirate to be sure you are not in a blood vessel and then inject the anesthetic solution close to the maxillary bone. The Lidocaine will diffuse through the maxillary bone and anesthetize the tooth, surrounding bone and buccal gingiva. A second injection, to anesthetize the palatal gingiva, is given on the roof of the mouth about 10 mm above the given tooth/gingiva junction. The needle is advanced about 2mm through the palatal mucosa until bone is reached, aspirate, and inject a small amount of solution (0.1ml) until the palatal tissue slightly blanches (turns white in an area 2mmx2mm).

A visual representation will best explain what I have described.

The first link is a You Tube video of the of the Maxillary infiltration technique described above. The second link shows the palatal component of the Maxillary infiltration technique. Note that in this link multiple palatal injections are given.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0z5n8HoQ9s&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9xQbVWp7mA&feature=related

Anesthesia is achieved in 5 to 10 minutes and lasts 90 to 120 minutes.

Mandibular (lower jaw) teeth require an entirely different type of injection technique to obtain anesthesia for tooth extraction.  An infiltration technique will not work on mandibular teeth or bone because mandibular bone has a thick outer covering (named cortical plate) which hampers diffusion of the anesthetic through the bone and into proximity with tooth nerves.  To circumvent this limitation of infiltration anesthesia in the mandible another type of anesthetic delivery is chosen namely a nerve block. The target of the block injection, in this case, is the Inferior Alveolar Nerve (IAN).  Each IAN provides sensation to the lower jaw, teeth and the gingiva on their respective side of the mouth. Since the dense mandibular cortical bone shields the IAN from the anesthetic solution, our strategy is to anesthetize the nerve trunk before it enters the mandible. This can best be accomplished by an understanding of mandibular landmarks and mentally visualizing the location of the IAN before it enters the mandible.  This type of injection is technique sensitive and is more of a challenge to administer than an infiltration injection.  An aspirating syringe with a long (because it has approximately 25 mm of tissue to traverse) 25 to 27 gauge needle is used. Aspiration is of particular importance with this injection  to verify that the anesthetic solution (e.g. 2%lidocaine with epinephrine 1:100,000) is not inadvertently administered into the IA artery or IA vein which are located in close proximity to the IA nerve.  My best recommendation is to study multiple videos on the anatomical landmarks and the technique of this injection.  Dentists give tens of thousands of these injections in their career and with attention to detail, complications are minimized.  I still pay close attention to the following when I give an IAN block.  (1). Correct positioning of the patient.   (2) Reviewing and palpating the land marks intraorally on every patient. (3) Use an aspirating syringe and if blood is aspirated, reposition the needle and aspirate again. Also, if a mandibular molar is being extracted, a separate injection (an infiltration injection) of the Long Buccal (a branch of IAN) nerve must also be given. This nerve provides sensation to the buccal (cheek side) gingiva of the mandibular molars.  Alternately, sensory innervation of the gingiva on the tongue side and the anterior 2/3 of the tongue are provided by the lingual nerve (also a branch of IAN) however this nerve, due to proximity, is usually anesthetized along with the Inferior Alveolar Nerve when the IAN block is given. To be complete, when extracting mandibular incisors, an infiltration injection in the muccobuccal fold adjacent to the tooth to be extracted is given in addition to the IAN block. The infiltration injection is to anesthetize cross over nerve fibers from the contralateral (opposite side) IAN. Anesthesia is profound and lasts 3-5 hours.

Here’s a link to a video which describes the anatomy and technique of the IAN block on a model as well as a patient. It is an excellent video and covers the basics of the technique. The second link is a short video covering the Long Buccal infiltration injection

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39kPPBbrM1c&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrzUL_61hLU&NR=1

Despite what you think or may have heard, extracting teeth is not an act of brute force but rather correct application of moderate forces and adequate preparation of the tooth to be extracted. Using excessive force or inadequate tooth preparation commonly leads to root fracture and an overall more complicated extraction. With this in mind, let’s look at the extraction process of a fully erupted painful tooth. This technique would be applicable to a non-surgical extraction. A discussion which encompasses surgical extraction is beyond the scope of this essay. The overview of simple tooth extraction involves severing and widening the bone and tissue attachments which hold the tooth in the jaw. Specifically, after adequate anesthesia has been achieved and in a stepwise fashion, the gingival/tooth attachment is severed. The attachment is about 2mm in width and extends 360 degrees around the tooth. I use a periosteal elevator (Molt 9) placed in the gingival sulcus (gum line around the tooth), and in the long axis of the tooth. The instrument is advanced in an apical (toward the root apex) direction in a short, steady motion until the 2mm tissue band is severed. This action is repeated until the gingiva is reflected 360 degrees around the tooth and to the level of the bone.  Remember this severing is done only around the gingiva closely adherent to the tooth root because you are only separating the gingiva from the root of the tooth to be extracted. There will be some minor bleeding, which can be blotted with some sterile gauze or surgical suction if available. Next is the crucial step in the extraction. Failure to adequately loosen the tooth with dental elevators (either 301 which has a smaller concave blade or 34S) can turn a simple extraction into one which may be beyond your skill level. The dental elevator is an instrument which resembles (but isn’t) a common flat bladed screwdriver.  During an extraction the elevator tip or concave blade is placed in between the tooth and the gingiva/surrounding bone. Once in place, the handle of the elevator is rotated in a fashion (clockwise or counter clockwise) to engage the root surface of the tooth with the blade and attempt to elevate it out of the socket. This process is repeated a few times moving the elevator to different interproximal locations as it gradually widens and separates the boney socket and ligament from the root of the tooth to be extracted. Skillful use of the elevator will render the tooth visibly mobile, that is, noticeable movement of the tooth can be visualized. I have extracted many teeth with an elevator alone. A word of caution, this is not an instrument that is used with much force. The force applied is mostly rotational and is never a strong pushing force or directed in the long axis of the tooth. A strong vertical pushing force has the tendency to slip and become redirected towards other anatomic structures which would best be avoided, such as the floor of the mouth, cheek or maxillary sinus.

Up to this point, the soon to be extracted tooth has obtained anesthesia, had its gingiva reflected with a periosteal elevator, been adequately loosened with a 301 or 34S elevator and ready for the forceps delivery. Forceps are special pliers which dentists use to remove the loosened tooth from the gingiva severed, widened boney socket. There is a specialized forceps for almost every tooth in the mouth but, in a pinch, you really only need two, an upper universal forceps (no. 150S) for all maxillary teeth and a lower universal for all mandibular teeth (no. 151S). One thing to keep in mind is the forceps extraction will differ slightly in technique depending if the extraction is of a multi rooted tooth or a single rooted tooth. Let’s assume that we don’t have access to x-rays and classify all maxillary and mandibular molars and maxillary bicuspids as multi rooted teeth and all the remaining teeth are single rooted. This of course is not always the case but we’re in a post TEOTWAWKI environment. The forceps technique differs slightly if the tooth to be extracted has a single conical root or has two or more roots. The main difference is that a slight 15 degree rotational force is not used at all on a multi rooted tooth because the multiple roots will resist rotation and most likely fracture. Going on, once the appropriate forceps is chosen, the concave beaks of the forceps are placed around the loosened tooth and advanced as far apically (towards the root tip) as possible. The further up the root the forceps’ beaks can be placed, the better. The goal is to apply the holding force of the beaks to the root and not the crown of the tooth. After a solid purchase is attained I will firmly move the forceps in a controlled small figure “8” and also a firm but small cheek to tongue directed rocking motion gradually expanding the boney socket and expanding the periodontal ligament (which is holding the tooth root to the bone socket). I will increase the size of the figure “8” and rocking motion as the bone expansion permits. Only after I have achieved noticeable tooth mobility with the forceps will I exert some lifting force to remove the tooth from the socket. If I am patient and don’t rush the forceps extraction, the tooth will gently release from the socket. Excessive upward pulling force is undesirable and often leads to a sudden unexpected release of the tooth from the extraction site with the undesirable result of the accelerated forceps hitting and damaging the opposing teeth. Once the tooth is extracted, attention is directed to the extraction site. Our goal now is to return the post extraction boney socket to its original shape and to control the bleeding. If needed, I  will first compress the expanded socket using my thumb and index finger in a pinching motion and control the bleeding by placing a few folded 2×2( 2 inch square) gauze on the extraction site and instructing the patient to bite and apply pressure. Pressure is what will control and stop the bleeding. Bleeding is usually controlled quickly with pressure and limiting physical activity until a clot forms. The patient is given gauze to use as necessary and also instructed not to rinse or forcefully spit for 24 hour, soft food diet, no alcohol or smoking (good luck with this one!)
 
An excellent video is available showing a dental extraction at a Mount Everest base camp.  The dentist uses a makeshift 301 elevator and has a 151 forceps which were found in the dental kit at the base camp. Tooth #28 is a lower right, single rooted, first bicuspid. It’s a great video of an extraction under marginal conditions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_DPqhQl4AM

There are many more instructional videos posted on the internet which go into detail about extracting teeth. Don’t misunderstand what I’m writing, extracting teeth is difficult and there is a long learning curve to develop the skill but it is a learnable skill for a nurse, EMT, PA, or dental hygienist. It is likely that a dental emergency will arise post TEOTWAWKI and being a  real medical emergency where no dentist is available reasonable action should be taken by those available and most qualified.

Three points to note: 

1. Gloves are worn mostly to protect against transmission of blood borne diseases such as HIV and Hepatitis B, I have switched to Nitrile rather than latex because there are a significant number of patients who will present with latex allergies.

2.  A complete medical history is taken prior to administering any local anesthetics, antibiotics or extractions.  Persons with certain cardiac conditions such as prosthetic heart valves, certain congenital valve defects, past history of bacterial endocarditis or those who have had prosthetic joint replacement surgery such as a total hip, knee or shoulder joint replacement will require prophylactic antibiotic coverage for any dental procedure which causes gingival bleeding. This prophylactic regimen is followed to reduce the likelihood of bacteria, introduced into the blood by the dental procedure, lodging on the prosthetic hip or damaged heart valve and causing a very troublesome life threatening infection. A common prophylactic regimen is to have the patient take 2 grams (2000mg) of Amoxicillin (assuming no allergy) by mouth one hour before the dental procedure. Some other concerns to extraction are bleeding disorders, allergies to any of the drugs or classes of drugs you are administering, anti-coagulants (Coumadin, Plavix) the patient may be taking and the class of drugs known as bisphosphonates. The bisphosphonates are commonly used to treat osteoporosis and some advanced cancers (palliative treatment) by inhibiting bone remodeling at the extraction site leading to bone death and infection. Of the bisphosphonates (such as Reclast), the intravenous route of administration exerts the most effect on the remodeling bone and can exert bone inhibition for many years after the drug has been discontinued. This is not a complete list and to proceed while not taking these contraindications into account may leave the patient worse off than they are initially. If a patient history or current condition is given and you are not familiar or unsure of the ramifications of the history or condition, STOP, take a step back and reassess the situation and obtain more information. A dental emergency of the type we have been discussing almost never requires an instant decision or action. Risk vs. benefit must be weighed and the question asked “Will this patient be better or worse off if I continue with my treatment.”

3. Often decayed teeth will not only be painful but will be accompanied by an acute dental infection.  Antibiotics such as Penicillin VK and Azithromycin, if available, are two first line antibiotics useful for treating acute dental infections and can be given orally. If there is an allergy to any of the Penicillins then Azithromycin can be given in its place. An Erythromycin allergic person is also allergic to Azithromycin. Dosages for Pen VK are 250mg to 500mg every 6 hours for 7 to 10 days. Azithromycin (Z-Pak) is usually dosed at two 250mg tabs the first day followed by one 250mg tab on each of the next 4 to 5 days. Antibiotics will work on bacterial infections only and should be administered as necessary. If no antibiotics are available an infected tooth, gum swelling or jaw pain will usually respond favorably once the source of the infection, namely the tooth is extracted and drainage of the infection can be established through the extraction site. If a fluctuant intraoral abscess is present it should be drained and followed with a course of antibiotics.

There is a potential shortfall to this entire dental emergency scenario and our proposed model of treatment namely, all local anesthetic necessary to anesthetize the teeth for dental treatment has a shelf life of ~ 18 – 24 mos. It can’t freeze either, if it does, it no longer works. I don’t know how the anesthetic was kept from freezing at the Everest base camp, but during Vermont winters, if the dental anesthetic freezes (usually in transit from the dental supply house) it no longer works effectively. A patient faced with an extraction without the benefit of local anesthesia knows intuitively that it is a very painful procedure and probably wouldn’t allow it until the dental pain becomes worse than the dreaded future extraction.  As long as local anesthetic is available, extractions can be done painlessly by a trained individual. Keep in mind that many general dentists don’t take out impacted wisdom teeth because of their degree of difficulty and most impacted third molars would be above the skill level of the TEOTWAWKI trained individual. There is also the issue of obtaining a supply of antibiotics and local anesthetic as well as the surgical instruments necessary for tooth extraction. Once legally obtained, the shelf life clock on the antibiotics and anesthetics begins. There are no studies that I am aware of which test the clinical efficacy of expired anesthetic or antibiotics on humans. Ethically, I couldn’t envision a clinical test structured to treat active infections with long expired vs. not expired antibiotics.  Along with drug potency, drug sterility can also degrade over time. Regardless of the expiration date, a liquid injectable anesthetic should be clear and free from floating debris and if isn’t, discard the vial or carpule.  Sterility of the anesthetic is not guaranteed, even though it may appears non contaminated, once past the expiration date.  On the other hand, dental extraction instruments, if properly maintained will last a lifetime. I should mention that surgical equipment needs to be sterilized before each use. Ideal sterilization is done in an autoclave under steam and pressure. If an autoclave is not available, a through scrubbing of all visible blood and debris from the instruments is done followed by a stay in 5% Sodium Hypochlorite(household bleach) and followed by 30 minutes in a pressure cooker @240 degrees F. The instruments are then dried, wrapped in sterile cloth and stored until the next use.  Up to this point, I’ve described one method of treating definitely most post TEOTWAWKI dental emergencies, let’s now examine how most of us can slow down and reduce the risk of dental disease and emergencies to a minimum.

As we discussed, most dental disease is caused by oral bacteria. So anything which reduces the amount of bacteria in our mouths will reduce our susceptibility to dental disease. By routinely maintaining impeccable oral hygiene a person will absolutely lower their risk of developing cavities and gum disease and avoiding the post TEOTWAWKI dental office.  This approach would be applied in a situation where dental care is extremely limited or non-existent. Implement a daily effective brushing and flossing routine, identifying and perhaps limiting the foods which are high in sugar and/or sticky such as raisins and granola bars. Why high sugars and sticky? Because studies show the two most important factors in cavity development are the number of times per day and the duration of time the teeth are exposed to bacterial acid.

In regard to the former, drinking a 12 ounce can of Mountain Dew, two ounces at a time, over 6 hours is far worse for dental health than drinking the entire 12 ounce can at one sitting. It was shown from clinical studies that bacteria on the teeth produce acid each time they are exposed to sugar and the recovery time to return to a normal mouth pH is similar for both the 12 ounce exposure and the 2 ounce exposure. So the incremental drinking exposes the tooth to 6 separate acid attacks rather than just one.

The latter, duration, is a factor when the high sugar food is sticky and becomes stuck between teeth or impacted into natural anatomic pits and crevices. In this case there is a steady supply of sugar for bacteria to metabolize because the sugar source is adherent on the teeth. The pH will stay in the acidic range for a longer time. As we discussed, tooth decay once started, if unchecked, will progress to nerve involvement with all its consequences.

Effective treatment which you can do to avoid or limit the initiation and progression of tooth decay is three fold and is directed at the known mechanism of the tooth decay process.
1. Develop and maintain a high level of home care by effective brushing and flossing. Young children who have teeth and cannot brush or floss effectively should have the parent brush and floss all teeth as they erupt in a child’s mouth. Daily brushing and flossing mechanically removes the bacteria adherent to the teeth. The goal is to remove and disrupt the bacterial plaque and thereby reducing the quantity of bacterial acid available for the decay process. Flossing is very important because it is the only way the surface area between the teeth is cleaned. If floss is not available, double thickness sewing thread can be used. In post TEOTWAWKI times I would advise flossing morning and night along with brushing after each meal.
2. Limit the number of times the teeth are exposed to sugar.  Brushing after each meal or if brushing is not possible, rinse the mouth with water. This will dilute the acid and aid in the rapid return to a more favorable oral pH.
3. Avoid sticky sugary foods. To adequately neutralize the acid the adherent food must to be mechanically removed with floss or brushing.

Here’s a link to showing effective brushing and flossing and provides a visual for what was discussed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR7rPFuyeBE

It would be good preparation (if you haven’t done so already) to develop good oral hygiene skills   which could be checked for technique by your dentist or hygienist. Also, your teeth/gums should be brought to optimal condition while there is a functioning health care delivery system.  If you have broken teeth that need repair or extraction do it now, while it’s still relatively simple. Ask your dentist about potential future tooth problems and what can be done to minimize them.
 
For most of us, a tooth free of bacteria won’t develop decay or periodontal disease…our two main concerns regarding dental disease. Keep in mind that before antibiotics and local anesthetics, people routinely died or suffered severely from dental infections. We know the cause of dental disease is bacteria and mechanically removing it with brush and floss will interrupt or mitigate the disease process. Impeccable oral hygiene doesn’t leave you immune to dental disease but will go a long way in preventing or prolonging its’ onset.

The Survival Trunk Gun by J.S.

There are plenty of forum postings and articles online on the subject of “trunk guns,” but I haven’t seen one that is survival or SHTF specific.  Many postings on SurvivalBlog detail a prep list and/or their B.O.B. list their firearms but rarely describe those carried in a vehicle on an ongoing basis.

This is where the legal disclaimer comes in, right at the beginning.  I’m not a lawyer or firearms-related legal expert.  Do not assume anything mentioned herein is legal where you live or travel, I take no responsibility for illegal acts that stem from this article.  MOST parts of the country allow for the transport of cased, unloaded long guns by anyone age 18+ and handguns by those 21+ (and many states require handguns to be secured).  MOST concealed pistol permits allow the owner of the permit to transport handguns loaded on their person in a vehicle, or secured in a very specific way when away from the vehicle.  If your travels take you to schools or federal installations a 24/7 trunk gun is not going to work for you.  If you share your vehicle with friends and/or family members that don’t meet the guidelines you’re asking for trouble.  Look up the applicable laws and stay in compliance!  While we are all preparing for times when chippy laws like these do not necessarily apply, we must respect the laws on the books.  Part of this article will cover how to camouflage your trunk gun from prying eyes while still keeping it simple to remove from your vehicle and go.

With that in mind I will do my best to cover all the bases.  For those of you in areas where firearms can be openly transported — in “gun rack country” — wonderful!  Most of us, this author included, do not.  Likely some parts will not apply depending on which extreme applies.

WHY?
So what is the purpose of the trunk gun?  First I want to cover what, for the purposes of this article, it isn’t.  It isn’t to sit in your trunk to augment your pistol in case of some crisis like the Virginia Tech shooting or the very recent Tucson, Arizona shooting.  In neither situation was a trunk gun employed nor I can’t think of the last time one was used in a reactive situation by a non-LEO.  Again, speaking of legalities, I believe it is a terrible idea to become a “citizen first responder” with a long gun; you’re more likely to be seen as a threat by lawmen when they do arrive.  On that note I totally agree with what the young man, Joe Zamudio, did when responding to the Tucson shooting — go to Condition Red, put his hand on his legally carried handgun, take it off safe, and approach the Bad Guy (BG).  As it turned out, he didn’t have to engage with his handgun because others had taken care of the BG.  Had he gone for a legally-stored trunk gun he would have had to 1) open his trunk, 2) uncase the firearm, 3) load the firearm, and most importantly 4) walk toward a live shooting scene carrying a long gun and not in a recognizable uniform — a really bad idea!

I digress.  The main purpose of a survival trunk gun should be as a tool to get you to your home / retreat in the event of an emergency.  Through this article I want to walk through scenarios to help determine which gun or guns is the best fit.

WHAT?
Here’s the meat and potatoes.  The point system I use looks a lot like something out of Boston’s Gun Bible by Boston T. Party (Kenneth W. Royce). This is because I like that system!

There are four categories of firearms I will cover here, in order of depth from greatest to least:

  1. Centerfire rifles / carbines
  2. Shotguns
  3. Centerfire handguns
  4. Rimfires

I want to show some common examples of each category, I can’t possibly list every suitable trunk gun here.  Each will be judged in the following categories from 1 to 10, with 1 being Poor and 10 being Outstanding.

  1. Size:  This evaluates the transportable size of the gun vs. the usable size — many guns can be broken down smaller for transport.  It will become more apparent in the when and how portions, but having the ability to keep and transport a gun in a small package is a big plus.  For comparison a Mosin-Nagant bolt action rifle would get a 1 while a compact pistol would get a 10 (yes I know there are tiny .25 ACPs and NAA .22LR revolvers, but I don’t consider these “trunk guns”).
  2. Firepower:  Can the gun deliver powerfully and quickly?  Can it be reloaded quickly?  Some of this is subjective but centerfire semi-autos will get good marks where rimfires, bolt actions, and small caliber handguns will not.  For comparison a single shot .22LR rifle would get a 1 while a semi-auto .308 with a 20 round magazine would get a 10.
  3. Price:  What would this gun cost to obtain, and perhaps more importantly cost to replace in case of loss or theft?  Trunk guns are much more exposed to loss than those in your safe at home.  A few of us can take losing a $3,000 black rifle, the 99.99% of us that can’t need to explore other options.  That $3,000 rifle gets a 1 while the $99 Mosin-Nagant gets a 10.

After each gun I’ll list these three categories like this with current average price at the end in parentheses: 10/10/10 ($99).  It will become clear that some “junky” guns will get higher scores than you might expect, that’s because I am weighting price equal with firepower — I mean how can a Kel-Tec SUB-2000 out-do an M1A SOCOM?  Well, I can buy several SUB2Ks with the price of one new M1A.  If you have the cash, then cross off the Price category and go for it!

Someone will ask, “Why not effective range?”  The point is this is a defensive firearm that will probably get used at close range if at all.  I truly believe that most modern firearms will outshoot most users especially in a hairy situation.  If you believe that a sniper duel is in your future, or you are 100% sure you’re able to outshoot your guns, I doubt you need this article to help you in your decision.

Centerfire Rifles / Carbines:
I want spend the most time on these as, where legal, they are in my opinion the best fit for a trunk gun.  The high level of firepower and ease of aim are the big factors.  Most of these are “duffle bag” ready (less than 30” OAL — explored more later).  This is not even close to comprehensive but broadly covers common trunk guns.

Kel-Tec SUB-2000 in 9mm or .40 S&W.  Can be folded to just over 16” (although not in firing configuration).  Uses common pistol magazine depending on version.  If you carry a Glock in 9mm or .40 this would be a great choice if you want something on the small side that uses the same magazines as your handgun.  The 9mm with a 33 round magazine or .40 with 31 rounds is nothing to sneeze at which gives it a 7 (more like a 6 with standard capacity magazines).  7/7/8 ($300) Score: 22.  Other pistol carbines are usually right in there on the firepower mark but are more expensive (except for the Hi-Point of course).

.44 Magnum lever action.  OAL for 20” barrel (10+1 capacity) is around 37”, 33” for 16” barrel (8+1 capacity).  Big bullet that’s very effective at close range, good capacity.  Not as speedy as a semi-auto but light and handy.  16” 5/5/6 ($500), 20” 4/6/6 ($500) — each totals 16.  These numbers are going to be pretty much the same for .357 or .45LC lever guns.

.30-30 lever action.  OAL for 20” barrel (6+1 capacity) is around 37”.  Inexpensive and also the least likely to arouse suspicion.  4/5/6 ($500) Score: 15.

AR-15 / M4gery in .223.  With a buffer tube cannot be folded down, but some gas piston ARs can take a folding stock.  Great firepower at close range, high capacity with 30 round magazines (or higher).  Plenty of options available to suit tastes, but decent quality comes at a price.  Most 16” barreled examples have an OAL in the 37” range while folding stock versions are about 26” and can be fired folded.  For folding stock 6/9/3 ($1200 or more) Score: 18; collapsible stock 4/9/4 ($900 or more) Score: 17.

Kel-Tec SU-16 in .223.  Most of the advantages of the AR (semi auto,used standard AR magazines) without the high cost, and more lightweight to boot.  All models can fold up by removing a non-captive pin (don’t lose it!), but only the “C” variant can fire while folded.  6/9/6 ($500) Score: 21.

Mini-14.  Like the above easy to fold with the right stock (and can fire folded) and not very expensive. 6/9/5 ($650) Score: 20.

Carbine-length .308 semi-auto (PTR-91K, FAL carbine, M1A SOCOM, AR-10 carbine, Kel-Tec RFB).  PTR and FAL can easily take folding or collapsible stocks, M1A can but examples are expensive, AR-10 is okay with a collapsible, RFB is a bullpup already with a short OAL.  The .308 semi-autos offer ton of firepower in a small package.  The big downside is the expense.  Assuming the smallest configuration:  PTR-91K 6/10/3 ($1200) Score: 19, FAL carbine 6/10/3 ($1200) Score: 19, M1A SOCOM 5/10/2 ($2000 — remember that fancy folding stock) Score: 17, AR-10 carbine 4/10/3 ($1500) Score: 17, RFB 6/10/2 ($1800) Score: 18. 

AK/SKS in 7.62x39mm.  Short OAL with folding stocks, great close range firepower, cheap price.  If pistol caliber carbines aren’t your bag, you don’t like plastic guns like the Kel-Tec, and the other semi-autos are out of your price range these are probably a great fit.  Of course, they are probably the most likely to arouse suspicion from anyone seeing one in your trunk! AK 6/9/6 ($500) Score: 21, SKS 6/8 (magazines)/7 ($350) Score: 21 as well.

Scout-style bolt action .308.  This could be any short barreled (20”) bolt action rifle.  Not likely to arouse suspicion in your trunk, but low capacity and difficulty to reload hurts it as a survival trunk gun.  Folding stock?  Don’t think so.  3/5/5 ($600 or more) Score: 13.

Surplus bolt action (various calibers).  I will list the Mosin-Nagant in 7.62x54R and the inexpensive Yugo 24/47s Mauser in 8x57mm.  Totally NOT concealable except in an obvious and long rifle case, but very cheap!  Mosin-Nagant 1/5/10 ($99) Score: 16, Yugo 2/5/9 ($200) Score: 16.

Shotguns:
In some places it’s legal to pack an unloaded shotgun around, but a rifle is prohibited.  This would make the scattergun your best choice.  Even where rifles are legal, you may be more inclined toward a shotgun — I won’t try and dissuade you — or you simply have an inexpensive shotgun taking up room in your safe.  A setup with interchangeable rifled slug barrel, a long bird-shooting barrel, and short defense barrel is a great combination.  The weakness is transporting them from your vehicle — most full-stock shotguns are too long for the average “duffle bag.”  I personally do not like pistol-grip shotguns but if you do they are very compact.
Double Barrel “Coach” Gun in 12g.  Inexpensive but only two shots and OAL of 36” make this only an “okay” choice.  4/5/7 ($350) Score: 16.
Pump Action in 12g.  Assuming an 8 or 9 shot defense-oriented gun like a Mossberg 500/590 or Remington 870.  With a folding stock or pistol grip it’s easy to transport.  6/7/6 ($400+ with a folding stock) Score: 19.
Semi-auto in 12 gauge.  Assuming a defense-oriented gun like a Remington 11-87 Police or Benelli M4.  While most models can take a collapsible stock I don’t see too many folding stocks for these.  4/9/4 ($750 or more) Score: 17.
Saiga semi-auto 12 gauge.  The models with the aftermarket folding stock are the best for what we’re looking at here.  Unloaded they are easy to transport in the trunk or in a bag/backpack.  With a 20 round drum they provide amazing close range firepower — but with the new stock and drum magazines these become very expensive and very heavy as well.  6/10/2 ($1,600) Score: 18.

Pistols:
Depending on the laws in your area, your comfort with long guns, etc, a pistol may be the best choice.  The strategy of legally carrying a small handgun and having a larger one in your trunk is solid.  Even better — augment that trunk long gun with a capable handgun.  As I mentioned before, the laws concerning the transport of handguns are often very different than rifles and shotguns — read up!

Semi-automatic centerfire pistol.  I’m just going to column list some of these rather than spend time going through each one by one.
Glock 17/20/21/22 8/6/6 ($500) Score: 20 (you could substitute nearly any double stack handgun in the same price range here)
Quality 1911 .45ACP 8/5/4 ($800) Score: 17
AK Pistol in 7.62x39mm 7/8/6 ($450) Score: 21; 75 round drum 7/9/6 ($450) Score: 22.
AR Pistol in .223 7/8/4 ($800) Score: 19
MAC-10 Clone 9mm 7/7/6 ($450) Score: 20
CZ-52 7.62x25mm 8/5/8 ($250 surplus) Score: 21
Makarov 9x18mm 9/4/8 ($250 surplus) Score: 21

Full sized double action revolver.  Again going to column list.  If you’re going to use a pistol caliber lever action as a trunk gun one of these in the same caliber would be a great companion.

.38 Special 4” barrel 8/4/8 ($250 used) Score: 20
.357 Magnum 4” or 6” barrel 8/5/5 ($600) Score: 18
.44 Magnum 6” barrel 7/6/5 ($600) Score: 18

Rimfires:

I’m not going to spend any time debating individual models of rimfires (specifically .22 LR). It’s more about what you believe your path from your vehicle to your home / retreat will be like.  If it could turn out to be a very long trek where you’re going to have to forage and hunt to stay alive, a rimfire rifle like the ubiquitous Ruger 10/22 and a brick of 1,500 rounds may be perfect.  As for firepower, it’s a tough call but in a fight with two legged critters I’d much rather have an accurate 10/22 than, say, a snubnose .38.

Other thoughts:

Keep as much ammunition as you are comfortable carrying — there is no set amount.  Regarding optics, I lean toward scopes and not red dots / holographic sights as these take batteries.  Nothing worse than needing your trunk gun and finding all of your old batteries have died!  Yes I know the Trijicon ACOG is a great counter to this problem but due to expense I think they are beyond the trunk gun concept.  If you’re comfortable with a $1,200+ optic in your trunk then that’s great.

HOW?
Here I’ll cover how to store your trunk gun(s).  First I’ll reiterate that 1) be legal and 2) lean toward safety and security versus ease of access.  If you live in a state/area where you’re not able to legally carry a loaded handgun, ease of access may be on your mind — but if you’re being carjacked or attacked near your vehicle, I can’t see a legally secured trunk gun being of any use (remember that scenario described earlier — only your loaded and ready firearms are useful, the stowed ones are not).
                 
The best storage method both conceals your trunk gun and creates the image for those that dig deeper that you’re headed to the range later — I am assuming here that you don’t like in “gun rack country.”  Let me explain.  If you have one of those long, solid stocked trunk guns you’re probably stuck with an actual rifle case; if so I recommend hiding it under other bags or items.  If you can fold or break down your trunk gun, or it’s a handgun, I firmly believe a dark colored athletic-style duffle bag is the best way to transport it.  First of all, it’s unobtrusive (stay away from the camo bags), and easy to complete the look with a towel and/or a pair of old sneakers next to it.  When you need to get your trunk gun and go, I would slip my small rafting B.O.B./G.O.O.D./survival bag on my back and my dark gray duffle on my shoulder — the trunk gun is on the top with ammo & other accessories below.  I pack clothes and other soft items around it to reduce the noise signature.
                 
While overseas I ran into a number of private security professionals that carried H&K MP5Ks (9mm machine pistol) in small black cases slung over their shoulders.  These were very discreet and gave them much more close range firepower than any concealed handgun (save maybe a [registered full-auto] Glock 18).  I am aiming for [the semi-auto equivalent of] this concept (no pun intended) with transporting the trunk gun.  I can’t say enough that running around with an uncased long gun is a bad idea, especially right after a major emergency like an earthquake or local civil disturbance that renders the roads impassable (otherwise you’re driving home).  Not only are you probably breaking the law [in many jurisdictions], you have become a target for lawmen and unwittingly a Bad Guy.  Don’t do it!  If your route takes you through the wilderness then your carry method might change but stay legal whatever you do.

WHEN?
So when do you actually use your trunk gun?  Displaying a firearm when and where it’s not warranted can get you in a lot of legal hot water and be very embarrassing — but the flip side is even worse, the BGs get the drop on you.  I can’t possibly describe every situation but simply reiterate that it’s a defensive firearm — it’s there to give you added firepower and/or dissuade the BGs.  I am working on a follow-up article on self defense which should go into greater depth on this subject.

Final thoughts:  I would love to get some feedback on this!  Much of it is “brain sweat” and by no means do I think of myself as an expert, you are definitely not going to hurt my feelings with any counterpoints or criticism.  I’m not 100% happy with my firearms evaluation either; by my point system the Kel-Tec SUB2K and AK pistol are the best trunk guns by size, firepower, and value which I know many will totally disagree with — although the AK rifle, SU-16, and SKS are in a virtual tie and I would say are the three best choices where firepower and value are concerned.  A $400 folding stock AK or AK pistol with a 75 round drum is quite a package.  I’d also like to hear from any current or former LEOs on this subject, it’s my personal experience that the law enforcement community is not a fan of the trunk gun, even where legal.  I have done my best to describe how the trunk gun is not a tool to “help” lawmen take care of BGs before the first patrol car comes on the scene — any additional thoughts, stories, or insight would be great.

Some additional links:

Last year’s Cheaper Than Dirt blog article on the same subject.
Last year’s Survival Retreat blog article

The is also a good archived thread on Warriortalk.com.  It’s kind of “hairy chested” but that’s the point — most of these guys prove why the trunk gun is not a good tool to respond to a local crisis (attack) but needs to be used for personal defense (especially the first post, I don’t much about Gabe Suarez other than he’s a well-known self-defense instructor, but his logic is solid.

JWR Adds: In my estimation, carbines chambered for pistol cartridges are over-rated. Ditto for “pistol” versions of semi-auto rifles (such as Kalikovs and “Pistol” marked AR-15s that are sans buttstocks.) I would much rather have a folding stock AK, a Kel-Tec SU-16, or a collapsing stock M4gery for a trunk gun. They are much more accurate to shoot than just “cheeking” an over-grown pistol.

I’d also like to mention that choosing the right state to live in, will have a huge impact on your safety. With a few exceptions (like Arizona), the states that recognize your right to carry a loaded weapon on your hip or in your vehicle are also the states with the lowest violent crime rates. This reminds me of a joke that Rush Limbaugh recently told in his radio show:

“A guy makes a rolling stop at a stop sign and gets pulled over by a local policeman. Guy hands the officer his driver’s license, insurance verification, plus his concealed carry weapon (CCW) permit.

“Okay,” the officer says, “I see your CCW permit. Are you carrying today?”

“Yes, I am.

“Well then, you’d better tell me what you’ve got.”

The motorist says, “Well, I got a .357 revolver in my inside coat pocket. There’s a 9mm semi-auto in the glove box. And, I’ve got a .22 Magnum derringer in my right boot.”

“Okay,” the officer says. “Anything else?”

“Yeah, back in the trunk, there’s an AR-15 and a 12 gauge shotgun. That’s about it.”

“Sir, are you on your way to a gun range?”

“Nope.”

“Well then, what are you afraid of?”

“Not a d**ned thing!”

Web Gear Basics, by Jeff J.

1

I had been thinking for some time about what topic I should write about that may help others here on SurvivalBlog. I myself am fairly new to prepping and have tried to soak up all the information this site provides and that Mr. Rawles has graciously provided.

Last year I purchased and read the book “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It.” I enjoyed the book incredibly and learned so much more. For one, I realized that I am far from reaching my goals of being self sustaining and providing for the needs of my family if the Schumer hits the fan any time soon.

One part of the book I liked spoke about web gear and how it should be an integral part of your battle rifle and day to day equipment. I have thought about this topic and decided I would try to share some ideas and basics about web gear. I would never intentionally plan to take away from Mr. Rawles book but hope this adds to or supports his writings.

I must also state I am no expert in military equipment or believe my opinions expressed here are taken as such. I am a veteran of the USMC and currently a LEO. I have used several different types or styles of web gear during my two careers. I have personal pros and cons for each system I have used. Hopefully someone out there can benefit from this information.

To begin I want to state there are many styles, designs, colors, patterns, and even names for web gear. I personally have always generically called it a Load Bearing Vest (LBV). Web gear seems to be a fairly general term encompassing the many different types there are out there.

Some of the other names you may hear are: Web Gear, LBV, Chest rig, Tactical vest, MOLLE vest, MOLLE gear, and Enhanced load bearing vest. I am sure there are other names given to and to describe web gear. These are just some of the more prominent ones.

What is Web Gear? Generally it is a vest, suspension system, or similar system that is used primarily by military personnel to hold and organize weapons and gear on their body allowing them quicker access, if needed. According to “Militarydictionary.com.” it has the same meaning as “webbing” which says: “a set of equipment pouches attached to a belt or harness.”

Some reasons for using and having web gear are: to carry canteens and water bladders, magazines and ammunition, holsters, radios, survival kits, mess kits, food, first aid kits, e-tools and shovels, any many more.

Some of the earlier Web gear systems were the “M-1956 Load-Carrying Equipment (LCE)” and the “M-1967 Modernized Load-Carrying Equipment (MLCE).” These were later replaced by the “Alice” system or ALICE. (All-purpose lightweight individual carrying equipment). These were used by the United States and other allied countries. Probably every modern military in the world has used or is currently using a form of web gear.

These earlier systems generally consisted of a set of suspenders that clipped or attached to a pistol belt. The belt would then hold or have attached various pouches and/or gear. The suspenders would help to reduce the weight and strain of the gear on the wearer, hence the term “load bearing.”

In our current military there are several load bearing set ups that are used. They all generally follow the MOLLE standard. These systems generally are a vest, carrier, or other system that is equipped with sewn on web straps across the exterior of the article. Modular pouches and other gear using interwoven straps can be attached to the webbing on them allowing the user to customize and accommodate their own set up and positions.

One benefit of the MOLLE system is exactly as stated above. The person can attach any of almost endless varieties of pouches and gear to their LBV. At this current time my preference is for the MOLLE system and my web gear is a MOLLE variant customized to my preferences.

Web gear can be found as military surplus from any number of resources. These are usually used in different states of wear. There are now many commercial companies who make copies and or original designs for web gear. Some of the online sources that sell these are: Sportsmansguide.com, Cheaperthandirt.com, Major Surplus and Survival, Ops gear, Mars gear, and many others.  I have no affiliation to these companies but have either purchased items for my web gear through them or searched for items on their sites. For those who do not want to buy on the internet, your local military surplus stores will probably provide similar results.

One big question to think about is what color or pattern do I want my web gear to be? You can find it in any of the standard military camouflages used from the past to present. Also solid colors that include black, olive drab, tan, foliage, and others. I even purchased an LBV that was made in the German Flectarn camouflage pattern.

The skies the limit on what you can find out there. I would suggest trying to find a color and pattern that matches or compliments the colors and patterns of your groups chosen BDU or other gear. The colors and patterns in no way affect the overall use and benefits of the web gear and contrasting colors and patterns are only that, contrasting. 

When I first planned out my web gear, I planned it to be a 72 hour kit for survival. I figured I would set it up so I could just grab my web gear and go and be self sustaining for 72 hours. Later, I decided I needed my web gear to be a part of a weapon system and include parts of my 72 hour kit. We each may have different reasons to build or buy a web gear system.

One thing I learned in Military was that web gear can be worn over your flak jacket and under a pack. We set up the web gear so it would not interfere greatly with the pack and when the pack was dropped we were ready to go into a fire fight. I have seen some web gear setups that I believe would hinder the wearer to use a pack, if needed.  I wouldn’t want to have to be fumbling around inside my pack for my web gear and magazines if I were being fired upon. When you prepare or buy your web gear, think how it would fit under your pack or BOB if you needed to carry both.

When I joined the military we carried an older LBV in boot camp. It was a one piece vest that had padded suspenders sewn onto netting. MOLLE style pouches were then sewn onto the netting at various locations. They included magazine pouches, grenade pouches, canteen pouches, and butt pack. They were adjusted for girth and size by lacing on either lateral side. They were kept secured by one or two adjustable clips in the abdomen area. Those LBVs were also patterned with woodland camouflage. Lastly, they had a “drag strap” across the upper back between the shoulder blades. The down side to these vests was aside from girth and size, they could not be adjusted.

Along with the above LBV we were also issued a pistol belt with 2 canteens and canteen holders. The canteen holders and other gear that was attached to the belt using the old “alligator clips” of the ALICE and similar type web gear. Personally, I hated these. The clips were either too tight or rusted shut or too loose and came open. Numerous times I would crawl through a course and realize that I was missing gear that fell off while I was on the course. Many of the older web gear systems used these alligator clips to attach the pouches, bags, and holsters to the belts.

When I arrived at my unit I was issued a different LBV with my 782 gear. This LBV was also in woodland camouflage but was designed with the MOLLE system. Instead of having lacings on the sides for adjustment it used compression straps. They had the same pouches as the older LBVs but these could be removed and adjusted to different locations on the vest as the user desired or needed. This especially helped in setting up the rifle magazine pouches for left and right handed shooters. I really enjoyed this set up and used it for the majority of the time of my enlistment.

When I received my 782 gear, I was also issued a flak jacket. It was in woodland camouflage as well and also had MOLLE webbing sewn onto the front and back of the vest. Our platoon commanders allowed us to skip or leave our LBVs behind as long as we attached all of our MOLLE pouches onto the flak jacket. In the end this was my favorite set up and I only brought my LBV out for gear inspections.

When I decided to buy my own web gear I searched for some time on the web looking for what I felt would fit my uses. I built my web gear from MOLLE system components and purchased them from different vendors. The following is my current web gear set up:

  • ModGear Tactical Magazine Chest Rig

This suspension system has two padded suspenders that attach to a bladder pouch on the back. The outside of the vest is covered with MOLLE webbing front and back. There are six M16/AK-47 magazine pouches built into the front of the vest. It has compression straps on either side for size and girth adjustments. The front is secured with Velcro, snaps, and a plastic snap clip.

  • Butt Pack

This butt pack is different than the military rectangular style. This bag has a main compartment with three smaller pouches attached to the sides and front. The lid to the main pouch has compression snap straps to hold it tight and secure. This bag has multiple MOLLE straps on the back that attach to the bottom end of the bladder pouch. This puts the bag on the lower back below the area where my pack would rest.

  • Deployment Bag

This bag is only a part time item. I place it above the butt pack on the upper portion of the bladder pouch. When I don’t want to carry a pack or back pack but need extra room I attach this for space. It comes with its own shoulder strap so it can be used as a stand alone piece of gear or additional bag. The back of this bag also has multiple MOLLE straps for attaching to the chest rig.

  • EMT Pouch

Although I don’t use this as a first aid kit, its design is known as such. This pouch is 7x5x2.5” with a zipper around the three sides. This pouch houses my survival kit. The back again has multiple MOLLE straps and I attach it to the left forward side of the chest rig. I also take this pouch off and carry it when I am not using my web gear.

  • Gadget Bags

These bags are similar to the EMT pouch but smaller. They also have smaller pockets and enclosures inside. In a pair of these, I store my various items in these such as my lighter, compass, chap stick, and flashlight. I have one pouch on either side of the front of the closure of the rig.

  • Pistol Magazine Pouch

This pouch is a double pouch that holds two full capacity pistol magazines. It is adjustable for different magazine sizes. I have it attached to the front of the chest rig. I may change this and place a triple pouch there instead to carry three magazines.

The chest rig I chose already has the rifle magazine pouches built in so I did not need to buy any exterior attaching pouches. I also like to use a water bladder and this particular chest rig has the bladder pouch built in. This increased my locations for attaching other MOLLE pouches and gear. I may add several other pouches later but for now this setup suites me. All the above MOLLE pieces and the chest rig are in Olive Drab.  I chose this because it will not contrast with the several different BDUs I have. Therefore I don’t need different rigs for each BDU set I have.

This web gear set up is my main LBV. I have three other LBVs that I have set aside as extras or for different terrain. One of them is exactly the same as the above set up but in Coyote Tan. Living in Arizona this one has obvious advantages. The other two are commercial rigs and are in different patterns and colors. I plan on setting them aside with spare magazines for my additional weapons platforms. (That is another of JWR‘s suggestions).

Several other designs I would like to talk about are some what different from the standard web gear or LBV. These are actual vests that cover the torso like body armor or plate carriers do. They are commonly called “Tac vests” or “tactical vests.” There are many vests that are made by commercial companies that have prearranged pockets, holsters, etc. added to the exterior of the vest. They also come in numerous colors and patterns. They also come set up for MOLLE systems so you can add your own pouches as you desire.

Except for carrying body armor and plates, I don’t like this style as much as it encloses your torso more and increases body heat (sweating) while performing physical activities. The more traditional web gear to me feels more open and less restrictive. You should try both before you decide which one you want to buy or build.

Similar to the flak jacket setup above, if you are going to carry body armor or plates these vests may be more acceptable. Instead of having your carrier and LBV over it, you can incorporate both into one. Just remember that some states and locals have laws and restrictions on body armor. Make sure what you are doing is legal before you buy anything.

Remember that your web gear is yours. You have to be comfortable in it and using it. Set it up how you will use it and practice using it. In other words, practice how you play.
If you have spent time wearing it while you are shooting and reload from the magazine pouches your muscle memory will kick in later when you need it and your training will take over. I know this is true, I have seen it day in and day out throughout my career.

I hope this can assist you in choosing and building or purchasing your web gear. God bless and Semper Fi!

Letter Re: Making Swimming Pool Water Potable?

Dear Jim:
When I teach classes on water storage and preservation I am often asked this question. I usually respond with a few questions of my own:

1.) Name all of the reasons you need water?

2.) Tell me what percentage each of those requires?, and:

3.) How many of those could you do with pool water just the way it is?

The truth of the matter is that the only reason you would need to “purify” pool water is for drinking or cooking. Washing, (dishes, clothes or bodies) doesn’t  require any pool water purification. Same with flushing the toilet an often forgotten water usage) In longer term “grid down” situations drinking and cooking become a smaller percentage of the water that you would use. If the water is only off for three to four days, you can go without washing clothes or bodies, but there is a need for cooking and drinking. Conversely the longer the water outage lasted the need to use greater amounts of water for cleaning would be required. 

More directly to the inquirers question of how to “Make pool water potable” especially in Arizona the answer is relatively simple: a solar still. A solar still is a simple apparatus that can be made in a pinch with the simplest of items on hand or purpose made in advance of the need. the simplest example is placing a shallow pan with an inch or two of pool water, setting a small cup or jar in the middle, then covering it with a piece of plastic sheeting sealing off the edge of the pan with a rope, bungee cord, or tape and allowing evaporation to do it’s job. The “distilled” water can them collected from the jar. This process doesn’t yield a great deal of water but is very effective.

Option two is by doing a similar thing by placing water in clear two liter bottles and letting them sit in direct sunlight for 6 to 8 hours and letting the sun break down the chlorine (that’s what happens in your pool naturally)  The bottle need to be well sealed and clear.

The third option is making a purpose built solar still. The concept is the same as the plastic covered pan, but on a much larger scale. To produce the two to three gallons a day needed for drinking purposes, a solar still would need to be at least 4′ x 8′. There are plenty of plans available on the Internet, but my favorite plan comes right from the inquirers back yard from the University of Arizona. You can read all the information of effectiveness of materials, water outputs, as well as, construction variants.

As the name implies, to have a solar still you need to have sunshine. In the winter time or If you live in more Northern climes the output of your solar still will be diminished, maybe even to the point of being less than useful. Since I live in the Southwest this is a viable option for me and I am planning on making one of these stills for my families use in the future. – Kory Mikesell

Economics and Investing:

John R. suggested this piece by Rick Ackerman: Finally, It’s the Fed That Has Become Too Big to Fail

Reader AmEx (American Expatriate) sent this: Gold Holdings in ETPs Plunge Amid Signs of Recovery

Nevada Unemployment: The Worst Gets Worse

Items from The Economatrix:

Second Wave of Housing Bust Hammers More Cities  

Consumer Confidence Index Hits Eight-Month High  

US Economy Contracting, Pound Plunges  

World’s Economy Recovery Continues, Says Think Tank  

Odds ‘n Sods:

I heard from the developer of an interesting shelter system designed for natural disasters: LifeCube. It is a 144-square foot inflatable shelter that is transported in a 5-foot cube of pallets. The shelter is a very clever design and looks ideal for short-duration natural disasters.  However, its long term viability is dubious.  (Since it requires electricity (or compressed air), and once the integrity of the inflated envelope tubes is lost due to any large punctures, the structure will collapse. But I’ve been told that the fabric portion of the shelter is manufactured by the Patten Company which invented the inflatable Life Raft in 1946, so the quality is top notch.)

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These deadly animals will kill you in seconds

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This is criminal! Watch this C-SPAN clip: FOPA Hughes Amendment Vote on April 10, 1986. Here you can see how Chairman Charles Rangel (D.-NY) ram-rodded through a Federal machinegun freeze that clearly failed both a voice vote and a recorded vote. We are now saddled with an onerous law that is not only unconstitutional, but that also was NEVER PASSSED!

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Lost city of ‘cloud people’ found in Peru.

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Erik K. sent this article: Siberians Raided Rodent Caches for Food